It’s essential to source good quality ingredients when making cosmetic formulas, because you can’t make a chocolate cake without cocoa, and let’s face it, carob is not a suitable replacement.

The same concept applies to sourcing cosmetic ingredients: what may seem the same material from different suppliers could vary significantly enough to render a batch unstable or unsuitable, and turn a high performing product into nothing special.

You also can’t make certain formulas perform the way you want them to without sourcing from the correct supplier, and sometimes they may be a little tricky to find.

So, let’s look at the do’s and don’ts of cosmetic ingredient sourcing to help you find the contacts you need, and source exactly the right materials, to make sure your formulas turn out great, every time!

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #1: Expect to need multiple suppliers

This is the most important aspect of creating unique and high-performing cosmetic formulas. I often speak to those new to the industry and they are dismayed when they need to contact 4 or more suppliers to get the ingredients they need for just 1 formula.

But this is completely normal! While there may the occasional time where you can source everything you need from just a few suppliers, it is more common for you to need to go to at least 4 different cosmetic ingredient suppliers (and sometimes many more) in order to get the exact materials you need.

Remember to keep economies of scale in mind: where you can use multi-functional or core functional materials – such as humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives and antioxidants – in multiple formulas, then this is a great idea. However, there will be many actives where you’ll just have to source all required options to ensure you have a unique formula.

Watch this webinar where I talk about needing multiple suppliers and building your supply network.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #2: Expand your network

The next most important step is to build your supplier network. Visit in-cosmetics trade shows, your local society conferences and your local cosmetic supplier days and make sure you meet the different distributors, and who they represent.

That way, when you need a certain material, you know exactly which distributor you should contact for information and a sample.

Remember, the suppliers for different materials varies by your location, so its important that you are finding your nearest distributor or material representative to get the answers and support you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #3: Be specific with trade names

A rose by any other name may have smelt as sweet to Shakespeare, but a material by its INCI name could be any of a dozen different grades to various suppliers.

When sourcing cosmetic ingredients, you need to be specific about trade names, because this could make a huge difference in a formula.

For example, Lubrizol suppliers various carbomers and acrylates, so you can’t just go to them and ask for ‘carbomer’ or an acrylate cross polymer because:

• Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 all have the INCI name ‘carbomer’ but with different play times and after feels;

• Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 all have the INCI name ‘acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer’; however the Carbopol range have very different skin feels to the Pemulen range and suit very different products. Carbopol Ultrez 20, for example, suits clear foaming formulas and gels; Carbopol Ultrez 21 suits styling gels and hydroalcohol gels; while the Pemulen polymers are best for creams and lotions depending on the viscosity required of the finished product.

In other words, just using a ‘carbomer’ or polyacrylate based on INCI name could dramatically alter the skin feel and stability of the finished product… hence using trade names is essential when speaking with suppliers to get the exact grade of material you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #4: Avoid e-bay and Amazon

If you want quality cosmetic ingredients, then you need to speak directly with your suppliers.

While it might seem like a good idea to trawl various sites for the best price, you could be purchasing a very wrong material (read why: revisit tip 3), or not get crucial information for regulatory and quality reasons (read why: go to tip 5).

Your cosmetic formula and finished product must have the required batch to batch consistency, which starts with quality ingredients, and that means going direct to reputable suppliers.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #5: Avoid suppliers who don’t provide good paperwork

Make sure your supplier can provide at least the following information, accurately and promptly:

• The INCI name, compositional information and CAS number. The INCI name and CAS number should match what is listed on the CosIng website.

• A recommended input rate appropriate for cosmetic formulas based on testing and/or regulations.

• A technical data sheet providing processing and sourcing information sufficient to use the material in a suitable way to ensure stability in a finished formula, and so you can determine how natural or synthetic the material is.

• If it is an active ingredient, the technical data sheet should also provide suitable efficacy data and clinical results to determine the best input and product form for you to achieve the same results.

• An MSDS with all safety, compositional ranges and disposal information.

If a supplier can’t provide you with this information, then you should look for another supplier.

If you follow these 5 tips, you’ll soon be in touch with the right suppliers to source quality cosmetic ingredients every time.

You’ll also find the best cosmetic ingredient suppliers will be in touch with you when there is a new launch or innovation so you can stay ahead of the pack with the latest cosmetic formulation launches.

Happy formulating!

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Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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The desire to slow down the ageing process and maintain youthful, radiant skin has driven the global demand for anti-ageing products for decades. From creams and serums to advanced dermatological treatments, the cosmetic industry has seen an explosion of products claiming to reverse or delay the effects of ageing.

One of the most exciting developments in this field is the emergence of senolytics, a class of compounds originally studied in longevity science for their potential to improve overall health and delay age-related decline.

What are senolytics?

Senolytics are compounds that specifically target and eliminate senescent cells, often referred to as “zombie cells.” These dysfunctional cells stop dividing but remain metabolically active, releasing harmful inflammatory signals that accelerate aging process, disrupt surrounding tissue and contributing to visible skin issues like wrinkles, decreased elasticity, and uneven skin tone. By clearing these cells, senolytics help restore balance, rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.

How do senolytics work in skincare?

Senolytics in cosmetics represent a significant departure from traditional approaches to anti-ageing skincare.

While most conventional products focus on hydration, collagen stimulation, or antioxidant protection – which target the skin’s surface or just beneath it – senolytics go deeper, addressing aging at its core.

Senolytics target the source of chronic skin ageing by clearing senescent cells. By eliminating these aged cells, they reduce inflammation and allow healthier cells to thrive, creating an optimal environment for skin regeneration. The result is enhanced cellular renewal, with skin’s natural repair mechanisms functioning more effectively.

Moreover, removing senescent cells reduces the pro-inflammatory cytokines they secrete, calming the skin and potentially reducing redness or irritation.
Incorporating senolytics into skincare products requires advanced formulation techniques to ensure their stability, efficacy, and safe delivery.

These powerful compounds can be effectively utilized in various types of skincare formulations. For example, they can be included in anti-ageing serums that target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin, helping to restore a more youthful appearance.

Senolytics can also be incorporated into brightening treatments aimed at reducing uneven skin tone and enhancing the skin’s natural radiance. Additionally, they are valuable in recovery products, designed to calm inflammation and support sensitive skin, helping to maintain overall skin health and balance.

Examples of senolytics in cosmetic products

The potential benefits of senolytics have not gone unnoticed by the cosmetic industry, and several brands are beginning to explore their use in skincare formulations.

While the field is still developing, certain natural senolytic ingredients are gaining popularity:

• Quercetin – a flavonoid found in fruits, vegetables, and plants. Quercetin has gained attention for its senolytic properties. It works by targeting and eliminating senescent cells, making it an attractive ingredient in anti-ageing serums and creams.

• Fisetin – another flavonoid with senolytic activity. Fisetin has been shown to reduce signs of ageing in animal studies and is being explored for inclusion in cosmetic formulations aimed at improving skin health and appearance.

• Natural extracts and botanicals – several natural ingredients (grape extract, alpine willowherb, green tea extract, pomegranate extract, etc.) are being tested for their potential senolytic effects. These plant-based ingredients are valued for their ability to promote skin rejuvenation by supporting cellular renewal and combating oxidative stress, offering promise as complementary components in advanced anti-aging formulations.

Why should brands consider senolytics?

As consumers become more educated about skincare, they demand solutions that go beyond surface-level results. Senolytics align perfectly with this trend, offering a unique opportunity for brands to stand out with a scientifically advanced, research-backed approach to anti-ageing.

The demand for sustainable beauty products is also on the rise, and some natural compounds fit within this trend, offering an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. By incorporating senolytics into their product lines, brands can appeal to a growing base of consumers seeking both efficacy and sustainability.

Future directions

While research on senolytics is still in its early stages, its implications for skincare are vast. As science progresses, we may see the development of combination therapies, where senolytics are paired with other powerful ingredients, such as retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants, to create a comprehensive approach to skin rejuvenation. These synergistic formulations could deliver more effective anti-aging benefits compared to standalone products.

Customization of skincare routines may also become more common, with personalized products tailored to individual skin concerns and ageing patterns. The growing understanding of cellular senescence and its impact on ageing will likely lead to more personalized skincare treatments.
Products may be developed to target the specific types of senescent cells present in an individual’s skin, enhancing the effectiveness of anti-aging solutions.

Beyond combating the visible signs of ageing, senolytics could offer solutions for other skin conditions associated with inflammation and cellular dysfunction, such as hyperpigmentation and chronic sensitivity. This expanding scope underscores the potential of senolytics to transform not only anti-ageing strategies but also broader aspects of skin health and care.

Senolytics represent an exciting frontier in the cosmetic industry, offering a novel and scientifically-backed approach to combat ageing. By targeting and eliminating senescent cells, these compounds have the potential to transform the way we think about skincare and anti-ageing.

As research progresses and more products incorporate senolytic ingredients, consumers can look forward to more effective, long-term solutions for maintaining youthful, glowing skin. With their ability to reduce inflammation, promote skin regeneration, and boost collagen production, senolytics could very well become the next big thing in the quest for age-defying beauty.

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Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products.

As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin.

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical! Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vytrus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy to speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

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Throughout 2024 we have seen an increased interest from consumers in luxury body care – formulas that go beyond just standard moisturising and feel amazing during and after application. As this trend will continue into 2025, lets look at what it takes to create luxe body care formulas…

Luxe body care starts with a gentler, more hydrating clean

Many luxe body care ranges start with a cleansing product with mildness claims beyond just the foaming agents. Gentle body wash products can include:

• micellar body wash formulas: use low inputs of non-ionic surfactants to provide just enough foam to give a luxe-feeling clean, without leaving the skin feeling stripped of its natural oil balance. Non-ionic surfactant inputs can be as low as 3%w/w active content and work particularly well in self-foaming dispensers.
• oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas: oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas both need special materials, such as Sucragel and Micromulse foam (both from Alchemy ingredients) used at 25-30%w/w to come together. These innovative functional ingredients enable the rest of the formula to use oil-based ingredients and yet still wash from the skin without an oily residue.
• foaming shower oil formulas: these cleansing formulas use a super fatting agent at a much higher input than normal (around 12-15%w/w) to provide a very mild, moisturising clean and creamy foam, along with a primary surfactant and matching input of lipids.

With these types of cleansing formulas, the skin already feels more hydrated and smoother than using traditionally built high-foaming body wash, for a more sensorially pleasing feel.

Proven hydration and elegant sensory essential in luxe body care formulas

Standard body lotion formulas use between 7-9%w/w lipid input, but that is not enough to meet the desired results of luxury lotion formulas. Not only is a higher lipid input needed – usually around 9-12%w/w – but the choice of lipids is incredibly important. They should be sustainable, ethically sourced plant oils, usually of an exotic or at least widely popular variety, with nutrient benefits to support skin hydration and repair. The combination of oils used must also provide a sensorial delight and leave the skin feeling soft and silky but never greasy.

In addition, the choice of emulsifiers used is incredibly important. Emulsifiers used in luxury body care should not only boost the stability of the formula, but its sensory aspects as well. It is an added boost if they can support the product story with clinically proven hydration.

Emulsifiers that can provide a boost to the product story or lasting hydration are many and varied; speak with your suppliers to find out about their product offerings. Some of the more interesting inclusions are the EmulsiPure range by AE Chemie, where plant derived emulsifiers are paired with various types of plant derivatives (for example, hemp oil, marula oil and green coffee extract, to name a few), for additional plant-based benefits. The Emulium range by Gattefosse contains a variety of choices all with the focus being on the sensory profile of the finished emulsion. Lucas Meyer also has a range of lecithin-based emulsifiers with varying sensory profiles, such as their Heliosoft, Heliofeel and Biophilic ranges. See how lecithin can improve the skin feel of your emulsions in this video.

Body care formulas get active

There is an ever-growing trend towards wanting ‘more’ from body care formulas these days. Lasting hydration is expected, but even more than that now: consumers are looking for their body care formulas to address very specific skin conditions and needs.

One example is to repair UV damage. Some great ingredient additions for this specific concern include vitamin B3, ectoin, beta-glucan and anti-oxidant rich extracts. More advanced actives include Repair Complex CLR (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium) and Gatuline Skin-Repair (Gattefosse). Sun protection is also an increasing trend to stop the damage in the first place – non-greasy, long wearing SPF50 body care is essential these days when facing the environment.

Another rapidly growing trend is for anti-acne and keratolytic performance. Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids were normally only used in facial care but have now been found in an increasing number of body care formulas. These may be in a cleansing or exfoliating form, and may also be included in leave-on lotion formulas for lasting activity as well.

Last but by no means least are skin rejuvenation and hyperpigmentation actives. We’re seeing active ingredients traditionally used in face creams now appearing as hero ingredients in body care. Look for actives that have particular activity on age spots and skin-firming when adding to your body care formulas. Investigate Delentigo (Mibelle AG Biochemistry), Wakamine (Givaudan Active Beauty) and Gatuline Spot-Light (Gattefosse) for use in body care products intended to lighten age spots specifically.

For skin firming, try Gatuline In-Tense (Gattefosse), Slimming Factor Karkade (Lipoid Kosmetik), Asiaticoside (Seppic), Regu-Slim (dsm-firmenich), Sculptessence (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) and Zirhafirm (Provital). Check out this video for more body firming formula ideas and this anti-cellulite cream for more actives with body smoothing efficacy data.

Add a touch of shimmer…

Depending on who your body lotion formula is for, a touch of shimmer can give additional effects. We’re not talking a party-level input, but instead, a subtle shimmer that adds to the appeal of a product. For Asian skin types, a pearly effect is highly desirable; for Caucasian skin types, a gentle glow. All skin types look healthier when more supple, so when hydrated and a very small input of effects pigment is present, it can give the final formula a little something more.

Aromatic appeal important too

As with all body care, the way it smells is incredibly important. The aroma of a product formula is not only the first thing noticed by most consumers, it can also be a lasting reminder of why they love their luxury skin care. Just remember when formulating luxe, the aromatic profile needs to match the target market very closely and is generally more complex than budget body care. Speak with your fragrance supplier for highly substantive materials and test your intended aromas on your target market to make sure it’s as desirable as the rest of the product formula so that they want to wear it every day.

With such a wide and diverse market of users, luxury body care is growing rapidly. Make your next body care formulas luxe with these formulation tips to meet the demand for this booming product category.

Happy formulating!

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(Sponsored Content) – Q&A with Gentaro Hayashi, CEO of Vitamin C60

Can you please explain to us what makes fullerene such high performance materials?　
Fullerene is the super antioxidant for anti-ageing with strong, long-lasting, and stable features and, interestingly, the professors who discovered Fullerene received the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1996. Fullerene can be expected to have an antioxidant effect more than 250 times that of vitamin C. We have focused on Fullerene for more than 15 years and are held in high esteem by dermatologists and manufacturers alike.
Clinical tests have been done on the efficacy of Fullerene on age spots, wrinkles, acne, skin barrier function, pore tightening, and even more. By formulating with Fullerene ingredients you can produce high-performing, anti-ageing cosmetics.

Why are fullerenes so popular in South-East Asia?
Our Fullerene ingredients are popular in Japan, China and other Asian countries because of their high functionality and high safety coupled with Japanese quality. It is also praised for its abundant collection of highly reliable clinical data. Most clinical trials are the result of joint research with university professors and cosmetic dermatologists, and many trials have been published at academic conferences and also published as papers.
We also approach consumers by posting our articles on social media. We are carrying out promotional activities to raise consumer awareness of Fullerene.
Last year, our ingredient, Radical Sponge received its halal certification. We think that having obtained Halal certification makes it easier to formulate our ingredients in products that are targeting a worldwide audience.

You are launching five more Fullerene products this year, tell us more about these… 
This October, we are planning to launch 5 new ingredients containing naturally-derived Fullerene. We spent almost 5 years developing the naturally-derived Fullerene and this naturally-derived Fullerene is produced from the cedar of domestic forests that are well managed for sustainability. We produce our naturally-derived Fullerene by using hydroelectric power. The use of a clean energy source means the manufacturing process is also environmentally friendly. For manufacturers, our ingredients are packaged in an aluminium pouch, which can reduce the volume of industrial waste.
In short, our new Fullerene ingredients are the strongest antioxidant ingredient for ageing care, with natural, high-performance, sustainable and eco-friendly properties.

Tell us more about the benefits of incorporating these naturally-derived Fullerene into formulations
Our fullerene ingredients are UV, heat and pH stable and easily blended into any cosmetic formulation. Our ingredients are easy to formulate and are mixed into various items from skincare to make-up and these are all available for customers via our formulation guidelines.
As mentioned above, our ingredients are multi-functional with high quality so our Fullerene ingredients are the best solution for “Anti-Ageing”, “Clean Beauty” ,”J-Beauty” and “Sustainable” concepts.

Want to find out more? Check out Vitamin C60’s range

The beauty industry is rife with myths and misconceptions, often perpetuated by marketing hype, anecdotal advice, and misinformation. These myths can mislead consumers, causing them to make choices that may not be in their best interest. From miracle cures to overnight transformations, the allure of quick fixes and potent solutions is hard to resist. However, the reality of skincare and cosmetic efficacy is far more complex and nuanced.

One of the most persistent myths is the belief that higher ingredient concentrations in beauty products are inherently better. This misconception can lead to the assumption that more potent formulations will deliver superior results. While it might seem logical to think that increasing the concentration of active ingredients will amplify their benefits, this isn’t always the case. The truth lies in understanding the delicate balance and science behind skincare formulations.

Debunking these myths is crucial for empowering consumers to make informed decisions. Misinformation not only undermines the trust in the beauty industry but also poses potential risks to consumers’ health and well-being. By shedding light on these misconceptions, we can guide consumers toward safer and more effective skincare practices.

The Origins of the Myth

The allure of higher concentrations stems from a simple assumption: if a little is good, more must be better. This belief is often fuelled by marketing messages and consumer reviews that tout the benefits of ingredients. However, this oversimplification doesn’t account for the complexities of skincare and cosmetic formulations.

The Risks of High Ingredient Concentrations

While it may seem logical that a higher concentration of an active ingredient would enhance effectiveness, this is not always the case. Here are some potential risks associated with high ingredient concentrations:

1. Skin Irritation and Sensitivity: Many active ingredients, such as retinoids, acids, and vitamin C, can cause irritation when used in high concentrations. This can lead to redness, burning, and even peeling of the skin.
2. Imbalanced Formulations: Skincare is about balance. High concentrations of one ingredient can disrupt the overall formulation, leading to products that don’t perform as intended. For instance, a high concentration of an acid might disrupt the skin’s pH balance.
3. Diminishing Returns: Beyond a certain point, increasing the concentration of an ingredient does not yield additional benefits. For example, studies have shown that vitamin C is most effective at concentrations between 10% and 20%. Higher than that, and you may not see increased efficacy, but you might experience more irritation.

Evidence-Based Information: The Case for Balanced Formulations

Balanced formulations are designed to deliver the right amount of active ingredients to achieve desired results without causing harm. Here’s why balanced formulations are crucial:

1. Optimal Efficacy: Research and development teams invest significant resources to identify the optimal concentration of active ingredients. These concentrations are chosen to maximize benefits while minimizing adverse effects.
2. Synergistic Effects: Ingredients often work better together at balanced concentrations. For example, combining a moderate concentration of retinol with antioxidants can enhance its efficacy and reduce potential irritation.
3. Safety and Tolerability: Balanced formulations ensure that products are safe for a broader range of skin types. This is particularly important for consumers with sensitive skin who might react negatively to high concentrations of certain actives.

In conclusion, the myth that higher ingredient concentrations are always better is just that—a myth. By understanding the importance of balanced formulations and making informed choices, consumers can achieve their skincare goals without unnecessary risks. Remember, in the world of beauty, balance is key.

“Bigger Isn’t Always Better” is a featured chapter in our report, The Rise and Influence of Ingredient-Led Beauty, developed in partnership with Euromonitor International and Covalo. To delve deeper and access the full report and explore key trends, visit
https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/ingredient-led-beauty-report.html

Most common nonionic emulsifiers are ethoxylated alcohols, acids, or oils. The other common nonionic emulsifiers are polyol types, such as sugar ethers (e.g. alkyl glycosides) or sugar esters (e.g. sucrose esters, Figure 1, and sorbitan esters).

Compared to their ethoxylated counterparts, polyol types of nonionic emulsifiers do not lose water solubility with increasing temperature.

Furthermore, sugar esters display many other proven advantages, including robust emulsifying capacity, great stability under stress, and good consumer health.

Sugar esters also demonstrate better biodegradability versus their ether counterparts.

A representative structure for sucrose esters (left).

Sorbitan esters are well-established products mainly used as leather and textile auxiliaries or as emulsifiers for food; their annual global consumption is about 20,000 tons.

Sucrose esters are relatively hydrophobic products with a market size of approximately 5,000 tons per year; they are used as emulsifiers for food and cosmetics.

In comparison, alkyl polyglycosides have a total market size of about 100,000 tons per year and are mainly used for cosmetic, manual dishwashing, and detergent applications.

Due to their natural raw material origin, good performance, and mildness, alkyl polyglycosides are the most successful sugar-based surfactants nowadays.
Sugar esters are nontoxic, compatible with skin, low or non-irritant, and generated from renewable resources, making them highly attractive to the cosmetic industry.

Although the melting point of sugar is high, the melting point of sugar esters can vary between 40 and 80 °C, depending on the degree of esterification.

Moreover, the length of the hydrophobic chain and the size of the hydrophilic group on sugar esters provide a wide range of HLB values. (High HLB values represent water-soluble surfactants, and low HLB values represent oil-soluble emulsifiers; the values can range between 0 and 16.)

Longer fatty acid chains and higher degrees of esterification result in lower HLB values.

For instance, if all eight hydroxyl groups in sucrose were to be esterified, the product would be highly hydrophobic and soluble in oil.

However, partial esterification would generate an amphiphilic sugar ester, which could be used as an emulsifier in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries.

Amphiphilic sugar esters can form thermodynamically stable molecular aggregates called micelles in an aqueous solution. The sugar ester’s molecular structure and the experimental conditions influence the critical micelle concentration (CMC) value, which is the specific sugar ester concentration at which micelles start forming.

In general, increasing the alkyl chain length decreases the CMC value. The CMC value is highly relevant as it represents the amount of sugar ester required to solubilize hydrophobic compounds in water. Adding more sugar ester after the CMC is reached yields more micelles and promotes the growth of aggregates.

Sugar esters are capable of effectively reducing the surface tension of water, which is highly valuable for many industry applications. For instance, coconut milk, as an emulsion, is not stable, and its phases separate rapidly. Coconut milk emulsions have larger droplet sizes and lack good emulsifiers, which lead to unfavourable contact between water and oil.

Using emulsifiers capable of reducing surface tension improves emulsion stability. The greater the ability of an emulsifier to reduce surface tension, the greater the emulsion stability formed in coconut milk.

Research conducted on a series of sugar esters including fructose, sucrose, and lactose esters demonstrated that lactose esters are the best molecules among the group; they reduced surface tension from 52.0 to 38.0 N/m, displaying an emulsification index of 54.1%.

Decreasing surface tension is also relevant to generating foods which consist of foam, because the air/water interfacial area can be enlarged by decreasing surface tension.

The biodegradability of sugar esters is also a relevant factor as it helps determine if the concentration of sugar esters remains below levels that are detrimental to the environment. For example, household cleaning products, which contain surface active molecules such as sugar esters, are normally disposed of through the drain.

Therefore, the biodegradability of sugar esters becomes of interest as the detergent surfactants’ residues are linked to foaming incidents in sewage treatment plants.

However, the biodegradability of nonionic surfactants is more difficult to predict because of the wide variety of molecular structures and the lack of a common functional group.

In general, sugar esters are known for their excellent biodegradability and do not generate environmental pollution. Researchers have found that changes to the sugar head group size, the alkyl chain length, and the number of alkyl chains attached to one sugar head group had no significant effect on the biodegradability of sugar esters.

The only structural variation that did have a significant effect was the presence of side groups on the alkyl chain adjacent to the ester bond. These branched groups decreased the rate and extent of the biodegradation of the sugar esters.

This effect was greatest in the presence of an α-sulfonyl group. When α-ethyl or α-methyl groups were attached, the inhibitory effect was weaker but still significant.

In summary, sugar esters are relevant as emulsifiers to the scientific and industrial communities.

However, many questions remain for scientific research and applied studies regarding the nature of these compounds.

Their wide range of possible HLB values provides room for the design and synthesis of novel sugar esters for food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications.

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I often get asked: what is the difference between pharmaceutical formulation and cosmetic formulation? While the use of therapeutic actives and delivery is often cited as the most obvious variation, the other main distinction is that cosmetic formulas must be much more aesthetically pleasing to consumers than their medicinal counterparts.

When creating pharmaceutical formulas, we need to be concerned foremost with ensuring stable and effective delivery of a medicinal compound; how the product feels or smells is of much lesser importance.

When it comes to formulating cosmetics however, while the product must perform as required by a consumer, it must also provide a pleasing sensory experience to fulfill their expectations and meet often intangible desires.

Let’s look at some formulating tips to ensure your cosmetic formulas deliver on the sensory and aromatic aspects deemed desirable and essential by consumers.

Immediate sensory pleasure can build cosmetic brand loyalty

When a consumer tests a cosmetic product, they will usually apply a small portion to the back of their hand or palm, smell it, then rub it between their fingertips. See additional interesting consumer habits in this video. This can mean the difference between them purchasing a product or choosing to leave it on the shelf.

You can alter the immediate sensory pleasure of a cosmetic product by:

• selecting emulsifiers that have a cushioning feeling without excessive rub in time;
• choosing lipids with volatility or little play time for oily skin types;
• using lipids with a buttery sensory for dry or sensitive skin products;
• combining lipids to create a long spreading emolliency required by body products; and/or
• adding gums that can alter the spread and feel of lipids on contact.

You may also find it useful to add cooling ingredients (such as menthol) or warming ingredients (such as zeolite) in certain cosmetic formulation types for an extra wow factor on application. See more tips on how to formulate for rapid results with this blog. Testing the immediate sensory experience of a product with a target consumer group can be an important aspect to see how well your cosmetic formula appeals to them from the very first introduction.

Lasting sensory appeal can support the activity of the cosmetic formula

The lasting sensory of a product needs to support the performance aspects of the cosmetic formula. In formulation terms, examples include:

• formulas for dry, mature and sensitive skin types need a lingering emolliency on the skin, long after it has been applied;
• cosmetics for hair care should have little to no residue shortly after being applied – volatile lipids can be a great way to achieve this result;
• make up products need to spread well during application but then must not run into fine lines or move throughout the day;
• formulas for oily skin types should remain relatively weightless from application – but usually benefit from the addition of humectants for non-greasy hydration.

Think about the needs of your target consumer: the lasting sensory profile of a cosmetic formula should support these needs to ensure the best results of the product over a prolonged period.

The aroma must appeal to the target market

The aroma of your cosmetic formula can be used to entice a consumer to test its sensory, and can reinforce the message you are trying to convey about the product. The smell of a cosmetic product has such a powerful impact, it can instantly appeal or deter a consumer from purchase! For example, if you are formulating for a:

• sensitive skin market: fragrances and essential oils are often avoided.
• budget market: cheap fragrances with simple aromas are usually the best choice.
• natural market: essential oils or natural fragrances created from essential oil isolates are generally required.
• luxury market: the aromatic profile must be highly specialized to your ideal consumer, whether it be from essential oils or fragrance materials.

When creating cosmetic formulas with essential oils, remember their input is generally too low to be of therapeutic benefit, and their inclusion must not be marketed based on their traditional medicinal uses. Some essential oils can support the performance of active ingredients by balancing the sebum levels of the skin or hair, although their use must be carefully considered if the aromatic profile is not appealing to your target market, despite their benefits.

Aromas can also be used to define a product range, impart an uplifting or relaxing mood, cover undesirable body odours or boost attraction. Learn how to choose aromas to suit your target market, including the use of essential oils, and incorporate them safely into your formulas.

Why sensory and aromatic principles are essential in cosmetic formulas

Consumers have a lot of choice when it comes to personal care. The immediate and long-term sensory aspects of a cosmetic formula, and especially its aroma, can be a make-or-break point when consumers are considering whether to purchase new cosmetic products. Consumers can’t often know just how well a product will work when they are first introduced to it at the shelf – but they can sense whether they like how a product smells and feels almost immediately. Use the tips in this article to ensure the sensory experience suits their preferences and boosts the positive experience of using your brands cosmetic products.

Remember to test the suitability of the sensory and aromatic profiles of your intended product before launching on members of your target market to ensure it hits the right note.

Happy formulating!

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We caught up with Enrique Jambrina, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer at In Silico Discovery to find out more about their approach, benefits for end users and future trends

In-Silico Discovery is one of these trailblazing start-ups that designs cosmetic actives with computational techniques – can you tell us more about the company’s DNA?

The people behind ISD are really the engine that made this company a reality.

José María García Antón, the founder, is a well-known entrepreneur known for efficiently translating scientific research into marketed products (i.e.: Lipotec, LipoTrue  The Deep Blue Sea Enterprise, PrimaDerm, etc).

He was the first one to think of  taking advantage of the knowledge developed by pharmaceutical companies when approaching a disease through a specific protein or mechanism of action, and the possibilities that applying those technologies could offer for the cosmetic and biotechnological fields.

Around this original concept he has been able to gather people with experience in the cosmetic field, in the creation of biotechnology-based start-ups, in pharma project design and execution, and, in computational drug discovery and design – the latter being possible through a solid technological partnership with Nostrum Biodiscovery.

As a brand-new company, the technological advances in the field of computer science offer us the possibility to efficiently identify new active molecules through virtual screening and de novo design without the need to run costly experiments.

In Silico Discovery (ISD) was then founded with the objective of developing a target-based computational approach for the efficient discovery of new potential actives with application in the cosmetic and biotechnological areas.

What makes In-Silico Discovery’s offering so unique?

We have built our own portfolio following a target-based approach. We have a strong interest in modulating the activity of the different cell types found in the epidermis (Merkel, Langerhans, melanocytes and keratinocytes) as well as in the communication between the nerve endings and these cells.

We have focused our first set of targets on the keratinocytes stem cell population present in the basal cell layer, which has been described as decreasing during ageing.

With this objective in mind, we have navigated through scientific literature to identify targets (proteins) which would have a role in controlling the functionality of this cell population, mainly through their proliferation and barrier functions.

Those selected targets are then modelled in-silico and analysed in the search for possible binding sites where our new molecules will be directed, potentially affecting its conformation and then its function.

The collaboration with Nostrum Biodiscovery gives us access to a series of proprietary algorithms such as PELEplat, pyDock and  ED/MD Suite Simulation as well as their knowledge around ligand-protein interactions.

There are a few companies that offer computational services, but we are unique in offering our own selection of actives selected with proprietary in-silico tools, algorithms and molecule virtual libraries.

What are the key benefits for end users?

This in-silico approach focused on a specific target protein offers a highly efficient method in the early stages of active ingredients identification, speeding up discovery and avoiding the use of precious experimental resources, which can be focused on key experiments.

This methodology also provides a strong scientific hypothesis about the mechanism of action for these new cosmetic actives.

From our own experience, the projects can take 3 to 6 months depending on the target and the strategy followed which could be based in the identification of small peptides as binders of the protein of interest or the design of a novel small protein that will mimic the function of the original target, and which is easier to obtain than the original one.

Before starting any of our projects we perform a patent search to guarantee a significant level of freedom to operate. Lastly, our clients will find a list of novel molecules selected by the most advanced in-silico algorithms predicting their binding properties, ready to be synthesized, tested, and incorporated in their formulations.

Our findings and the strategy followed to identify those actives are protected by Trade Secret offering the end-users the possibility to fulfil a patent.

What does the future look like for In-Silico Discovery? What future trends can you predict in the world of cosmetic actives design?  

Over the past few years, there has been an exponential increase in the knowledge of the mechanisms and genes involved in the ageing process and their implication in the origin and progression of different diseases such as oncology, inflammation, and neurodegeneration.

This interest has been echoed in the creation of new scientific journals (i.e.: Nature Aging), and the creation of companies like Altos Labs, focused on cellular rejuvenation programming.

Keeping a broad point of view when designing future cosmetic formulations will then be critical in order to apply those findings from other scientific areas into the cosmetic sector.

Topics such as senescence, autophagy, or mitochondria health are already of interest in the maintenance of skin homeostasis and such processes could be influenced by specific proteins whose functions we will be able to modulate.

On the other hand, the continuous and fascinating developments in the AI and machine learning fields, such as the design of de novo proteins, or the combination of different activities in just one molecule, will offer new and exciting ways to identify new actives in a very effective manner.

It will also continue to offer a new perspective on the modulation of those signalling pathways essential for skin health.

Find out more about In-Silico Discovery

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While the ageing process is eventually inevitable, we can slow the rate at which our cells divide and therefore age – as well as the physical appearance of ageing – using cosmetic ingredients which target the process of ‘cellular senescence.’ There is a growing number of active ingredients which target this activity within the skin, from extracts to peptides and even stem cell technology. Read on to see how delaying cellular senescence is the next big buzz-word in antiaging skin care formulations.

What is cell senescence?

Within our skin cells, our chromosomes are part of the DNA replication process. At the ends of chromosomes are protective telomeres; but every time your cells divide, these telomeres shorten. When they have shortened enough, the cells will senesce – they will become dormant. In other words, your skin cells are only able to reproduce a certain number of times before their proliferation declines and they are no longer active. Obviously, to retain the appearance and features of youthful skin, we need to prolong the life of our skin cells for as long as possible.

This is why cosmetic active ingredients which are able to overcome cellular senescence are so powerful in anti-ageing cosmetic formulas.

How cosmetic active ingredients can overcome cellular senescence.

Different cosmetic actives can slow cellular senescence using various mechanisms:

• Protecting telomere length: this is one of the most important ways to slow cellular senescence. Since telomeres shorten with every cellular division, if you can maintain their length, you can keep them active.
• Reducing skin cell proliferation: by reducing the rate of proliferation, the number of cellular divisions can be slowed and senescence delayed.
• Disguising markers of cell senescence: this in effect enables the cell to continue to be active.
• Promoting autophagy (or cellular detoxification): supporting cellular lifespan by removing wastes or degraded organelles to improve cellular function.

When choosing your cosmetic active to delay cellular senescence, make sure you consider how it is providing that effect to determine the effectiveness of results your consumer will experience in conjunction with other active ingredients used in your formulations, and as part of your overall cometic product offerings.

Delaying cellular senescence: a difficult story to explain to consumers.

Cosmetic products are broadly defined by regulators as substances to be applied to the external surface of the skin in order to maintain or protect its’ appearance. Marketing claims made about cosmetic products must comply with this overarching definition, and must not make claims about the physiological activity occurring within a cell.

This means that explaining how cosmetic actives help preserve the appearance of youth by inhibiting cellular senescence is impossible to tell directly to a consumer.

While a cosmetic brand cannot market or otherwise direct consumers to the terms ‘delaying cellular senescence’ (or similar physiological functions), they can promote the visible results: a reduction in appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, improvements to skin suppleness and radiance, visibly denser looking skin, and an increase in skin firmness. The issue remains, however, that in a crowded anti-ageing marketplace, how does a cosmetic brand effectively explain just how their cosmetic formula differs, and potentially outperforms, a competitor brand not using anti-senescent active ingredients?

The answer is in marketing a return to a more youthful appearance of the skin: using terms such as ‘look X years younger within 30 days,’ or ‘restore the signs of youth,’ or similar terms, based on the clinical evidence you hold for the active ingredients and cosmetic formulation created. Since consumers understand, and commonly want, their skin to look and feel younger, this is a marketing message that resonates readily with them. Cosmetic actives that target cellular senescence make cells function as if they are younger to get the desired results. Hence, referring to a younger appearance or wiping years off their visible age helps a consumer connect their wants with the benefits provided by these products, without breaching cosmetic claim regulations.

Which suppliers have anti-senescent cosmetic actives?

Peptides with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following cosmetic peptides:

• Col-Frag Remastered (LipoTrue)
• Progeline (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• PromaCare GSH (Uniproma)
• WKPep Antiprogerin (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co)
• WKPep CLP2 Plus (SpecChem)

Understand more about peptides, proteins and collagen selection for cosmetic formulas with this video. Also learn how peptides work in cosmetic formulas here.

Extracts with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to the following cosmetic extracts:

• IBR-Dormin (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• RejuveNAD (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Regu-Science (DSM- Firmenich Personal Care)
• Sunflower Shoot Active (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Vitasource (Provital)

Get additional tips on how to use herbal extracts in cosmetic formulas here.

Stem-cell technology with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following stem-cell based cosmetic ingredients:

• Altheostem (Provital)
• Centella Reversa (Vytrus Biotech)
• PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)

Remember to look at the efficacy data, inputs used, test conditions and components present when determining which anti-senescent cosmetic active is best suited to your cosmetic brand’s product story. As this is a continuously growing area of innovation, we are also seeing new anti-senescent cosmetic actives launched each year… so make sure you speak with your cosmetic ingredient suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to find the active solution best suited to your next formulation development.

Happy formulating!

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