The start of the year presents an opportunity for the cosmetics and personal care industry to reflect on past innovations, identify new gaps and cultivate fresh ideas.

Product innovation refers to developing new or significantly improved products to meet market demands, address existing problems or create entirely new markets.

According to the Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report (2023), global sales in this sector are projected to reach $937.1 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.7%.

It is a critical driver of business growth and competitive advantage, where consumer preferences and scientific and technological advancements are constantly evolving.

Yet, as consumer preferences continue to evolve, product innovations must also adapt – not only to meet these demands but also to address the pressing challenges of rapid innovation cycles, product oversaturation, consumer fatigue and the environmental toll of overconsumption.

Multi-functional Products

The skincare sector in particular is witnessing a key transition towards multi-functional products favouring efficacy and substantiation, efficiency over complexity, driven by busy lifestyles and a desire to reduce environmental impact.
Multi-functional products are developed to address multiple concerns and/or provide multiple benefits within a single formulation. Examples include:

• A moisturiser that hydrates, brightens and protects against UV damage.
• A serum that combines anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.
• A cleanser with exfoliating and moisturising capabilities.

Why It Matters in Skincare

• Efficiency: Saves time by reducing the number of steps in a routine.
• Convenience: Combines multiple benefits in one product.
• Sustainability: Reduces overconsumption, packaging waste and resource usage.

These products are reshaping product innovation and influencing purchasing behaviours by offering thoughtful and purposeful solutions.

According to Credence Research (2023), the global market for functional cosmetics, including multi-functional skincare, is projected to grow to $68.1 billion by 2032, reflecting a CAGR of 3.06%. Similarly, the hybrid makeup market, which includes products offering skincare benefits alongside cosmetic functions, is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1% by 2030 (Grand View Research, 2023).

Despite the rapid pace of product launches, these figures underscore a notable consumer shift – people want fewer products that do more. For formulators and manufacturers, there is a clear opportunity to drive innovation by developing impactful products that withstand the test of time. Incorporating compatible ingredients into a single formulation demonstrates how multi-functional solutions can deliver both efficacy and convenience.

Challenges in Rethinking Innovation

While the advantages of multi-functional products are obvious, they present both opportunities and challenges for formulators and manufacturers, requiring careful consideration of various factors:

• Ingredient Compatibility

Combining multiple active ingredients into one stable and effective formulation is a complex task, requiring pH balancing and delivery optimisation to maintain stability and efficacy.

• Consumer Expectations

Consumers have raised the bar for communication and are digitally informed, they expect content that is fast, relevant and authentically will keep them engaged and coming back for more. Formulators and manufacturers alike are encouraged to communicate the science behind their multi-functional products, avoiding unsubstantiated claims.

• Advanced Technologies

Delivery systems can enhance the performance of combined actives. These systems ensure that each active ingredient retains its potency and targets the skin effectively.

• Sustainability

True innovation also means considering the entire product lifecycle. From sourcing sustainable raw materials to incorporating eco-friendly packaging, every step should reflect a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Despite these challenges, several strategies can help formulators and manufacturers deliver impactful innovations.

Solutions: Key Elements for Success

1. Synergistic Ingredient Combinations

Successful multi-functional products rely on synergistic ingredient pairings.

For example:

• Niacinamide and Peptides: Working together, these ingredients boost the skin’s barrier function and support skin longevity.
• Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: This combination delivers intense hydration and reinforces the skin’s natural barrier, effectively addressing dryness.

2. Advanced Delivery Systems

Technological advancements can allow formulators to combine ingredients delivering protective benefits without compromising stability. They allow formulators to use fewer raw materials with higher yields, minimising environmental impact while maximising product effectiveness.

3. Sustainability at the Core

Brands can reduce their environmental footprint by utilising refillable packaging to minimise waste and incorporating biodegradable materials into both packaging and product design. This approach has the potential to lower raw material usage, shipping costs and development expenses by streamlining ingredient selection and considering the entire product lifecycle of a product from its foundation.

Marketing Opportunities

• Ingredient combinations such as exfoliating acids and antioxidants demonstrate the growing demand for multi-functional products by refining pores, brightening skin and providing hydration. A single formulation can also tackle elasticity, pigmentation and overall skin health, making it even more appealing to consumers.

• Target demographics like millennials make up a significant proportion of the population in many countries around the world and prioritise products with substantiated claims and long-term benefits.

Rethinking product innovation is an essential strategy for staying competitive in today’s cosmetic and personal care landscape. Multi-functional, multi-tasking skincare offers a clear pathway to address consumer demands for simplicity, efficacy and sustainability while reducing environmental impact.

By adopting advanced technologies or methods of delivery, prioritising sustainability and focusing on ingredient synergy, formulators and manufacturers can shape a future where innovation aligns with values.

Now is the perfect moment to rethink product innovation that resonates with consumers and redefines industry standards.

References:

1. Credence Research. (2023). Functional Cosmetics Market Growth.
2. Grand View Research. (2023). Hybrid Makeup Market Report.
3. Harris Williams. (2023). Consumer Spending Trends in Beauty.
4. Ainapure, A. (2023). Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report

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I often get asked: what is the difference between pharmaceutical formulation and cosmetic formulation? While the use of therapeutic actives and delivery is often cited as the most obvious variation, the other main distinction is that cosmetic formulas must be much more aesthetically pleasing to consumers than their medicinal counterparts.

When creating pharmaceutical formulas, we need to be concerned foremost with ensuring stable and effective delivery of a medicinal compound; how the product feels or smells is of much lesser importance.

When it comes to formulating cosmetics however, while the product must perform as required by a consumer, it must also provide a pleasing sensory experience to fulfill their expectations and meet often intangible desires.

Let’s look at some formulating tips to ensure your cosmetic formulas deliver on the sensory and aromatic aspects deemed desirable and essential by consumers.

Immediate sensory pleasure can build cosmetic brand loyalty

When a consumer tests a cosmetic product, they will usually apply a small portion to the back of their hand or palm, smell it, then rub it between their fingertips. See additional interesting consumer habits in this video. This can mean the difference between them purchasing a product or choosing to leave it on the shelf.

You can alter the immediate sensory pleasure of a cosmetic product by:

• selecting emulsifiers that have a cushioning feeling without excessive rub in time;
• choosing lipids with volatility or little play time for oily skin types;
• using lipids with a buttery sensory for dry or sensitive skin products;
• combining lipids to create a long spreading emolliency required by body products; and/or
• adding gums that can alter the spread and feel of lipids on contact.

You may also find it useful to add cooling ingredients (such as menthol) or warming ingredients (such as zeolite) in certain cosmetic formulation types for an extra wow factor on application. See more tips on how to formulate for rapid results with this blog. Testing the immediate sensory experience of a product with a target consumer group can be an important aspect to see how well your cosmetic formula appeals to them from the very first introduction.

Lasting sensory appeal can support the activity of the cosmetic formula

The lasting sensory of a product needs to support the performance aspects of the cosmetic formula. In formulation terms, examples include:

• formulas for dry, mature and sensitive skin types need a lingering emolliency on the skin, long after it has been applied;
• cosmetics for hair care should have little to no residue shortly after being applied – volatile lipids can be a great way to achieve this result;
• make up products need to spread well during application but then must not run into fine lines or move throughout the day;
• formulas for oily skin types should remain relatively weightless from application – but usually benefit from the addition of humectants for non-greasy hydration.

Think about the needs of your target consumer: the lasting sensory profile of a cosmetic formula should support these needs to ensure the best results of the product over a prolonged period.

The aroma must appeal to the target market

The aroma of your cosmetic formula can be used to entice a consumer to test its sensory, and can reinforce the message you are trying to convey about the product. The smell of a cosmetic product has such a powerful impact, it can instantly appeal or deter a consumer from purchase! For example, if you are formulating for a:

• sensitive skin market: fragrances and essential oils are often avoided.
• budget market: cheap fragrances with simple aromas are usually the best choice.
• natural market: essential oils or natural fragrances created from essential oil isolates are generally required.
• luxury market: the aromatic profile must be highly specialized to your ideal consumer, whether it be from essential oils or fragrance materials.

When creating cosmetic formulas with essential oils, remember their input is generally too low to be of therapeutic benefit, and their inclusion must not be marketed based on their traditional medicinal uses. Some essential oils can support the performance of active ingredients by balancing the sebum levels of the skin or hair, although their use must be carefully considered if the aromatic profile is not appealing to your target market, despite their benefits.

Aromas can also be used to define a product range, impart an uplifting or relaxing mood, cover undesirable body odours or boost attraction. Learn how to choose aromas to suit your target market, including the use of essential oils, and incorporate them safely into your formulas.

Why sensory and aromatic principles are essential in cosmetic formulas

Consumers have a lot of choice when it comes to personal care. The immediate and long-term sensory aspects of a cosmetic formula, and especially its aroma, can be a make-or-break point when consumers are considering whether to purchase new cosmetic products. Consumers can’t often know just how well a product will work when they are first introduced to it at the shelf – but they can sense whether they like how a product smells and feels almost immediately. Use the tips in this article to ensure the sensory experience suits their preferences and boosts the positive experience of using your brands cosmetic products.

Remember to test the suitability of the sensory and aromatic profiles of your intended product before launching on members of your target market to ensure it hits the right note.

Happy formulating!

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To incorporate nature and promote sustainability in the cosmetics industry, many companies have used natural and organic extracts from plants, flowers, and seeds as formulation ingredients. However, consumers are increasingly demanding even more sustainable products. As such, many in the industry have started to investigate upcycling materials that can be reused for cosmetics and that would have otherwise been discarded. These materials include coffee grounds, olive oil wastes, and fruit peels. By maximizing the usage of natural resources, we can help reduce the cosmetic industry’s impact on the environment.

Traditionally, recycling in the cosmetics industry has been focused on packaging materials. For most cosmetic products, packaging is a necessity. This is because many formulas are sold in water-based forms and, generally, in a liquid state. These formulas are susceptible to oxidation as well as contamination by bacteria, which makes airtight packaging essential to ensure the product’s safety during its intended shelf life. However, not all packaging materials are made equal, and not all of them are strictly necessary. Due to its widespread usage, plastic attracts a lot of negative attention with respect to its environmental impacts. As such, it is now generally agreed that the end of life for all plastic packaging materials should be clearly planned out before they are adopted for usage. In France, the Agec law stipulates a total ban on single-use plastic packaging by 2040, with an initial target to recycle all plastic packaging by 2025. Consequently, from March 2023, the cosmetics industry started to print the new Triman recycling logo, along with instructions on how to recycle it, on all plastic packaging materials.

In contrast, upcycling is the process of utilizing by-products, waste materials or discarded components for new functions and transforming them into new products. Food and beverage processing by-products represent a major source of materials that can be upcycled into beauty products, particularly natural and organic cosmetics.  Food and beverage by-products often contain ungarnered food-grade ingredients that have many beneficial properties for the skin. Since it recovers elements of agricultural production destined to be destroyed or devalued, upcycling is very conducive to environmental sustainability. It maximizes usage of existing products, thereby eliminating the consumption of additional resources.

According to a 2011 report by the Swedish Institute for Food and Biotechnology, roughly one-third of the food produced for human consumption globally is lost or wasted. A large percentage of this waste happens during food material processing. To prepare food stuff and transform it into a consumer-acceptable state, a large portion of the food and beverage components have to be discarded, often for taste and aesthetic purposes. However, this discard can be upcycled into natural cosmetics, benefitting both the cosmetic industry and the environment.

As validated by many pieces of academic research and cosmetic company practices, food waste is a valuable source of materials for the creation of natural and organic upcycled cosmetics. Many collaborations between food producers and cosmetic companies have catalyzed the upcycling of food waste stream materials with precious active functions for skin applications. In the same vein, cosmetic raw material companies have also started to focus their attention on developing plant-based ingredients obtained from various food processing by-products.

Examples of food waste that can be used to develop upcycled natural and organic cosmetics include olive oil processing wastes in the forms of water and solids, citrus extracts from the likes of orange and lemon peels, waste from brewing coffee and cacao, waste from making tea, etc. Dried fruit seeds discarded from the juice and jam industries can be cold pressed and transformed into essential oils. Extracts of grape waste from wine production can be used for their pigments and active ingredients. However, the successful recovery of these ingredients for cosmetic applications demands research and developmental efforts. Often these materials need to be freshly processed into cosmetic ingredients. They also need to be freed from germs and other possible contaminations.

Increased investment by the cosmetic industry, which is reinforced by consumers’ growing appetite for circular beauty products — products that are “good for people and planet” —, will keep the development of recycled and upcycled cosmetic technology highly active in the coming years. Explorations of additional waste material streams as well as advanced recovery technologies will bring novel ingredients and functions to the beauty industry while reducing its environmental footprint.

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While the ageing process is eventually inevitable, we can slow the rate at which our cells divide and therefore age – as well as the physical appearance of ageing – using cosmetic ingredients which target the process of ‘cellular senescence.’ There is a growing number of active ingredients which target this activity within the skin, from extracts to peptides and even stem cell technology. Read on to see how delaying cellular senescence is the next big buzz-word in antiaging skin care formulations.

What is cell senescence?

Within our skin cells, our chromosomes are part of the DNA replication process. At the ends of chromosomes are protective telomeres; but every time your cells divide, these telomeres shorten. When they have shortened enough, the cells will senesce – they will become dormant. In other words, your skin cells are only able to reproduce a certain number of times before their proliferation declines and they are no longer active. Obviously, to retain the appearance and features of youthful skin, we need to prolong the life of our skin cells for as long as possible.

This is why cosmetic active ingredients which are able to overcome cellular senescence are so powerful in anti-ageing cosmetic formulas.

How cosmetic active ingredients can overcome cellular senescence.

Different cosmetic actives can slow cellular senescence using various mechanisms:

• Protecting telomere length: this is one of the most important ways to slow cellular senescence. Since telomeres shorten with every cellular division, if you can maintain their length, you can keep them active.
• Reducing skin cell proliferation: by reducing the rate of proliferation, the number of cellular divisions can be slowed and senescence delayed.
• Disguising markers of cell senescence: this in effect enables the cell to continue to be active.
• Promoting autophagy (or cellular detoxification): supporting cellular lifespan by removing wastes or degraded organelles to improve cellular function.

When choosing your cosmetic active to delay cellular senescence, make sure you consider how it is providing that effect to determine the effectiveness of results your consumer will experience in conjunction with other active ingredients used in your formulations, and as part of your overall cometic product offerings.

Delaying cellular senescence: a difficult story to explain to consumers.

Cosmetic products are broadly defined by regulators as substances to be applied to the external surface of the skin in order to maintain or protect its’ appearance. Marketing claims made about cosmetic products must comply with this overarching definition, and must not make claims about the physiological activity occurring within a cell.

This means that explaining how cosmetic actives help preserve the appearance of youth by inhibiting cellular senescence is impossible to tell directly to a consumer.

While a cosmetic brand cannot market or otherwise direct consumers to the terms ‘delaying cellular senescence’ (or similar physiological functions), they can promote the visible results: a reduction in appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, improvements to skin suppleness and radiance, visibly denser looking skin, and an increase in skin firmness. The issue remains, however, that in a crowded anti-ageing marketplace, how does a cosmetic brand effectively explain just how their cosmetic formula differs, and potentially outperforms, a competitor brand not using anti-senescent active ingredients?

The answer is in marketing a return to a more youthful appearance of the skin: using terms such as ‘look X years younger within 30 days,’ or ‘restore the signs of youth,’ or similar terms, based on the clinical evidence you hold for the active ingredients and cosmetic formulation created. Since consumers understand, and commonly want, their skin to look and feel younger, this is a marketing message that resonates readily with them. Cosmetic actives that target cellular senescence make cells function as if they are younger to get the desired results. Hence, referring to a younger appearance or wiping years off their visible age helps a consumer connect their wants with the benefits provided by these products, without breaching cosmetic claim regulations.

Which suppliers have anti-senescent cosmetic actives?

Peptides with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following cosmetic peptides:

• Col-Frag Remastered (LipoTrue)
• Progeline (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• PromaCare GSH (Uniproma)
• WKPep Antiprogerin (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co)
• WKPep CLP2 Plus (SpecChem)

Understand more about peptides, proteins and collagen selection for cosmetic formulas with this video. Also learn how peptides work in cosmetic formulas here.

Extracts with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to the following cosmetic extracts:

• IBR-Dormin (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• RejuveNAD (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Regu-Science (DSM- Firmenich Personal Care)
• Sunflower Shoot Active (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Vitasource (Provital)

Get additional tips on how to use herbal extracts in cosmetic formulas here.

Stem-cell technology with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following stem-cell based cosmetic ingredients:

• Altheostem (Provital)
• Centella Reversa (Vytrus Biotech)
• PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)

Remember to look at the efficacy data, inputs used, test conditions and components present when determining which anti-senescent cosmetic active is best suited to your cosmetic brand’s product story. As this is a continuously growing area of innovation, we are also seeing new anti-senescent cosmetic actives launched each year… so make sure you speak with your cosmetic ingredient suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to find the active solution best suited to your next formulation development.

Happy formulating!

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Just how do you create that perfect cosmetic formula? This blog will tell you how, in 5 simple steps, to go from concept to approved samples, whilst ensuring the cosmetic formula is exactly what the product development brief has called for.

Cosmetic formulation step 1: Identify the critical elements of the product development brief

The product development brief acts as an informative tool to be used by the concept developer and the Cosmetic Chemist so that it’s clear the type of product that needs to be developed. The brief should describe in words what the concept developer wants the Cosmetic Chemist to create, and ideally be accompanied by comparison samples to demonstrate how the product should feel, smell and/or perform.

The development brief contains the how, what and why of the product to be created; the Cosmetic Chemist’s job is to capture the theory of what the concept developer wants, and put it in a bottle or jar for them.

Critical information needed includes:

• key product details, such as form of the product, required aesthetics, company philosophy, pricing models and ingredients to specifically include or avoid.
• packaging requirements, and ideally samples of the finished product packaging.

Cosmetic formulation step 2: Determine essential ingredients and method required

 Once you have identified the form of the product that needs to be created, you can then:

• determine the appropriate ingredients to build the formula, for example:
  • o the functional ingredients, to achieve the function of the product;
  • o the structural ingredients, to ensure the right form and viscosity;
  • o the supportive ingredients, selected specifically to ensure long term stability;
  • o active ingredients, to enhance the performance of the product; and
  • o added extra ingredients, the ingredients you may need to add to help improve the marketing story of the product.
• determine appropriate inputs (%w/w) of each of the ingredients to meet the functionality, performance and budget needs of the cosmetic formula.

• ‘phase’ materials together.
• prepare a method that suits all materials selected.

It is at this step that you should start contacting cosmetic ingredient suppliers to clarify any compatibilities or processing information, along with pricing, minimum order quantities and lead time on the orders.

Cosmetic formulation step 3: Cross check selected ingredients and amounts against the product development brief.

It is crucial that you cross-check your selections against any limitations of the product development brief, or ingredients the concept developer specifically does not want you to use. This is also a good time to double check all ingredient selections for any specific pH, regulatory or incompatibility requirements.

Use the brief as a checklist to make certain your formulation is addressing all requirements, including budget and time constraints. Make any changes to your formulation selections if required to theoretically fulfill all requirements of the brief. You can now also work on potential pricing of the finished product.

Once this information is confirmed and theoretically suitable, you would order samples of the materials so you can move to the next step: creating product samples.

Cosmetic formulation step 4: Prepare your samples and send out for feedback.

When all of your raw material samples have arrived, you can now head into the lab and prepare your first sample and see how well your theory translates into a finished product.

The first sample is always the worst sample, but gives you a practical sample of the theoretical formula you have prepared. Once you have a tangible product, you can then adjust the theoretical formula and prepare further samples to refine the sample and make it feel, look and otherwise perform as specified by the brief.

It is quite common to need to review your formula and prepare more samples at least 1-6 times to meet the needs of a specific brief when you are experienced at formulating. If you are just new to formulating, do not be surprised if you need to adjust your theoretical formula and prepare revised samples at least 10 or more times.

Once you send your first completed sample to the concept developer (remember, this is likely to be about your fifth revision); they will provide you with feedback from which you can make further adjustments. It is common to need to revise two more times (yes, that means another 3-10 samples each round, depending on your experience), before the final formula is ‘approved,’ or ‘signed off’.

Cosmetic formulation step 5: Finalise paperwork

Once the sample has been confirmed as suitable (signed off) by the concept developer, you are ready to finalise the paperwork. This step involves writing up the final version of the formula with amounts, phase details and method of manufacture. It should also include preparation of a compliant ingredient list and compiling technical data sheets to confirm efficacy of any actives or functional ingredients.

Unless you work for the manufacturing company who will make the final product, you are not able to confirm price, but should be able to estimate what each unit is likely to cost.

The cosmetic formulation process overview:

Here is an overview of the process, steps involved, and likely time taken. Always allow a little extra time in case there are logistical hold-ups or other untimely (and usually uncontrollable) delays.

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Molecular mesophase behavior originates from two basic concepts. The first concept is the “closest packing” of simple-shaped mesogenic compounds. In these shape-driven mesophases, rod-like molecules are packed in an ordered liquid crystal phase. This ordered liquid crystal phase is energetically more stable than the randomly-packed isotropic phase. Most of the classical liquid crystals, notably the compounds used for traditional display devices, belong to this class: the monophilic liquid crystal.

The second concept is the “microphase separation” of two incompatible parts within one molecule. The most common incompatible characters are hydrophilicity and lipophilicity coexisting in one molecule, which is thereby amphiphilic. Amphiphilic molecules can form amphiphilic liquid crystals.

For example, glycolipids consisting of two incompatible parts—a polar sugar residue which is hydrophilic and a nonpolar paraffin chain which is lipophilic—display double melting behavior, which is characteristic of liquid crystal formation. The two incompatible parts of this molecule are connected covalently and cannot separate macroscopically. Instead, the molecules are forced to microscopically separate into a sequence of hydrophilic and lipophilic layers. These layers have the same geometry as the smectic A phase of the monophilic liquid crystals; as such, their physical properties are also the same. While monophilic liquid crystals and amphiphilic liquid crystals share many properties associated with their liquid crystallinity (e.g. textures of the smectic A phases, X-ray patterns in the mesophases, etc.), the chemical requirements for the formation of these two types of liquid crystals are completely different.

Many amphiphilic molecules can form mesophases both in melt (thermotropic liquid crystals) and in solution (lyotropic liquid crystals). Some researchers use the term amphotropic liquid crystals to express the ability of a compound to form both thermotropic and lyotropic mesophases.

Amphiphilic molecules with mesophases exhibit many useful properties for technological applications. Common applications include coating medicines to control their delivery, stabilizing hydrocarbon foam, and serving as primary solvents for topical medication.

Thermotropic properties of amphiphilic molecules are determined by several factors, though the amphiphilic character is the most important one.  Some of these factors are discussed below:

• A mesogen must consist of at least two different molecular parts which do not like to mix with each other; these parts can be hydrophilic and lipophilic, hydrophilic and fluorinated, siloxane and hydrophilic, etc. The contrast in attraction forces between these two molecular parts is one of the main driving forces for the formation of these mesophases.
• The sizes of the molecular parts are If we only consider the difference in hydrophilicity, methanol (CH₃OH) looks like an amphiphilic molecule. However, the polar and nonpolar moieties in methanol are too small. As such, the ratio between volume and surface of the microphases is too small to display any amphiphilicity.
• The balance between hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity in the molecular structure should be appropriately adjusted. There is an optimum lipid chain number for a given polar head group. For example, polar monosaccharides with 4 OH groups attain their highest clearing temperatures when attached to 16-carbon alkyl lipophilic chains.
• The relative positions of the two different parts within the molecule is important. Molecular fluidity such as that in the liquid phase (e.g. translations, rotations) should be possible in a mesophase, yet the two different molecular parts should be clearly separated. This is possible with rod-like or rope-like molecules, which form lamellar arrangements. It is also possible with wedge-shaped molecules, which form columnar phases. Many other possible arrangements of the two different parts may cause amphiphilicity but will not yield the formation of liquid crystals.
• There should be flexible parts of the molecule. For example, a mesogenic compound with only phenyl rings and a sugar moiety is hindered in the formation of thermotropic mesophases.
• We now know that the exact stereochemistry of the molecule influences its thermotropic properties; however, not all of the details have been thoroughly researched yet.

Lyotropic liquid crystal behavior is similar to that of thermotropic liquid crystals. However, its liquid crystal phase changes continuously with changes in the amount of solvent as well as temperature; therefore, a lyotropic system has one more variational vector than a thermotropic system. In addition, lyotropic liquid crystal behavior can be influenced by the types of solvents and their concentrations.

With lyotropic liquid crystals, the textures seen under a microscope with crossed polarized light are normally more complicated. The cubic mesophases tend to only display a “black” texture. As such, while microscopy is suitable for observing the thermotropic mesophases, X-ray analysis is commonly used to study lyotropic properties, especially the cubic phases.

The relationship between molecular shapes and their expected mesophase behavior is illustrated below, though, as previously discussed, the actual phase of a liquid crystal is further determined by its temperature and solvent environment.

Elongated amphiphiles with structures like 1, 2, and 3 tend to form a lamellar phase. Forked (4) or pie shaped (5) mesogens will most likely form hexagonal columnar phases. Most of the non-linear structures like 6 also form hexagonal columns. Banana-shaped amphiphiles (7) and elongated forks (8) are borderline between lamellar and columnar phases, and their exact textures are determined by environmental conditions. They may also manifest bicontinuous cubic phases.  The cone-shape molecule 9 normally displays discontinuous cubic phases. Star-like substituted molecules such as 10 will prefer columnar phases. If the star structure is dissymmetric as in 11, rectangular and tetragonal columnar phases are expected.

You may have heard of one of the growing trends in cosmetic skincare actives – stem cells – but be left wondering: how are they used in cosmetics, and what are they, anyway? This article will take a look at what stem cells are in the body compared to how stem cells are used in cosmetic formulas, as well as why they are so effective and worth exploring in your next formulation developments.

What are stem cells?

In the body, stem cells are undifferentiated cells ready for replication. They may become copies of themselves, or become specific cells needed by different organs or tissues. The epidermis is an organ with continual cell renewal of ideally, 27 days; so epidermal stem cells are essential to help our skin looking rejuvenated and fresh, as well as for repair if we suffer any sort of skin damage.

As we age, the skin’s stem cells become less in number and activity, which results in slower skin cell turnover, uneven skin tone, thinning of the epidermis and devitalised appearance. Together, these activities manifest as sagging skin, fine lines and wrinkles. If we can support the activity of the epidermal skin cells, however, we can improve the function of the epidermal skin cells to reverse these signs of ageing and restore a more youthful appearance.

Hair follicles are subject to the same impact of ageing, and we are now seeing cosmetic actives using stem cell technology to reduce hair thinning, loss and greying by boosting the function of hair stem cells also.

What stem cells are used as cosmetic ingredients?

Cosmetic active ingredients with stem cell efficacy come from plant cell cultures, making them a unique, renewable and sustainable cosmetic ingredient. Certain plant cell cultures have shown clinically proven activity to nurture the reading of epidermal gene functions, to improve the body’s natural stem cell functionality.

Plant stem cell cultures, as used in cosmetic active ingredients, have also shown protection against oxidative stress to delay the rate of ageing and need for replication.

In this image, you can see how the application of plant stem cell cultures in vitro have restored the activity of epidermal cells to a more youthful state, such that the result is practically indistinguishable to healthy young stem cells.

In terms of visible results, this means a thicker epidermal layer, revitalised appearance and more even skin tone – in other words, restoring the skin to a more youthful appearance.

Are stem cells in cosmetics like those used for medical research?

Absolutely not! Stem cells used in medical research are cultivated from human tissue; while the stem cells we use in cosmetic formulas are created through a biotechnology process from selected plant stem cells, which are grown in a pure and sustainable way, to become a plant stem cell culture. They are highly sustainable with proven clinical results both in vitro and in vivo.

Understand the use of stem cells in cosmetic formulas further by watching this video.

Are plant stem cell cultures effective?

Cosmetic actives based on plant stem cell cultures with clinically proven efficacy are incredibly effective if you can get them to the basal layers of the epidermis where they are needed. While it is incredibly difficult for many cosmetic ingredients to travel that far (watch this video for a detailed explanation), you only need a very small amount of plant stem cell culture to reach the target site to get outstanding visible results.

Make sure your cosmetic formula has enhanced delivery ingredients and methods, like in this video, to ensure you get the plant stem cell cultures to where they will work best. Once there you can expect to see:

• advanced visible anti-ageing results with in 28 days; or with certain plant based stem cells, dramatic improvements to hair follicles;
• antioxidant benefits, which protect bodily stem cell longevity and function;
• reversal in signs of ageing such as improvements to skin tone and texture; or for the hair,

Searching for stem cell culture cosmetic actives

There are now multiple suppliers offering a variety of plant stem cell culture-based actives, for general and targeted anti-ageing benefits for both the skin and the hair. Search for the supplier with the right stem cell active for your needs:

• attend in-cosmetics exhibitions and industry events seeking suppliers promoting stem cell actives;
• visit the innovation zone at your nearest in-cosmetics event to see the latest stem cell launches;
• search cosmetic ingredient databases such as UL Prospector using ‘stem cells’ as a search term.

Remember to check efficacy data carefully to make sure you are selecting the stem cell active with the desired results for your cosmetic formulation and also consider the plant source used and how this can add to your sustainability and marketing stories.

Remember also to keep your marketing claims based on visible anti-ageing (or hair densifying) results to comply with cosmetic regulations and show the before/after results to really demonstrate the potential of these amazing cosmetic ingredients.

Happy formulating!

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Compared to other types of personal care formulations, creating sunscreen formulas is not an easy task! There are considerable regulations to comply with, limits to the types and amounts of UV filters you can use, additional stability requirements for the sunscreen formula and ensuring SPF ratings are maintained. This blog explains how to create sunscreen formulas to get you started – and then it’s a matter of extensive sample development to get the end product just right.

Before you start formulating sunscreens…

The first thing you need to do is check whether sunscreen products are regulated as cosmetics or drugs in your region. There are also additional rules over ‘water resistance’ claims, warnings and certain label information required with all sunscreen products. Before you place a sunscreen product onto the market, make sure your brand has checked essential compliance requirements and conducts their own SPF testing specific to their sunscreen formula.

You can also find out more with our video: Should your cosmetic brand have a sunscreen product?

Be careful of sunscreen formula myths! Read this blog to be informed of common sunscreen formula myths and the truth behind them.

Here is an overview of how different countries regular products with SPF claims:

Choosing the sunscreen agents: organic vs inorganic UV filters

There are two types of sunscreen agents:

• Organic Sunscreens:
  • commonly referred to as chemical sunscreen agents, they work by absorbing UV light.
  • conform to organic chemistry principles but are NOT permitted in natural or organic sunscreen formulas.
  • common examples: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (also known as octyl methoxycinnamate); benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate.

• Inorganic Sunscreens:
  • commonly referred to as natural or physical sunscreen agents; they work by reflecting or scattering UV light.
  • conform to inorganic chemistry principles but ARE permitted in natural and organic sunscreen formulas (even though they are NOT actually all natural).
  • common examples: zinc oxide and titanium oxide.

Why do sunscreen formulas typically contain a combination of UV filters?

The combination of organic and inorganic sunscreen agents is used in many sunscreen formulas because a blend can help achieve a higher SPF and UVA rating, a broad-spectrum rating, and improvements to skin feel and sunscreen formulation stability. UV filters are very specific with the wavelengths of light in the UVA or UVB spectrum over which they are effective. To be considered ‘broad spectrum’, a sunscreen formula must contain sufficient coverage over a large amount of the UVA and UVB spectrum (from 290 – 400nm).

There are also regulatory limits over the types and amounts of sunscreen agents that can be used in a sunscreen formula. This means you can’t usually achieve the required SPF without combining at least a few sunscreen agents.

Sunscreen formulas: get the base right!

Even if you have a great combination of UV filters in a sunscreen formula, the SPF performance will be affected by:

• the way the product spreads: a smooth, even film on the skin provides the best SPF rating.
• product stability: if the base formula starts to separate or form lumps over time, application will not enable an even spread of the sunscreen ingredients.
• compatibility: UV agents cannot be allowed to agglomerate or crystallise over time.

Consider these images:

Both diagrams use the same quantity of incidental UV light (represented by the arrows) and UV filters (represented by the ovals). The image on the left provides an example of when UV filters agglomorate, resulting in a low SPF. The image on the right shows an even spread, to catch the most incidental UV light, which would yield a much higher SPF.

Step-by-step: how to create sunscreen formulas

Formulating sunscreens is not like formulating other personal care products. You will need to follow the steps below to create a sunscreen formula in theory, and then create samples, carefully evaluate, and amend your formula several times before you can get it just right and test the final product to confirm the required SPF results are obtained.

1. Determine UV filters and input amounts required to achieve the required SPF (in theory)
   • Check all inputs comply with local country regulations and provide broad spectrum UV protection.
2. Determine suitable lipids to ensure compatibility and even spread of the UV filters.
3. Add the lipid soluble UV filter input + selected lipids to determine the total lipid input. This will determine if your formula is likely to be w/o or o/w. Note: most sunscreens with high SPF are w/o or w/si emulsions because there is typically a high lipid/lipid soluble component needed to get a good spread and high SPF rating.
4. Select the emulsifiers + polymers to stabilise the UV filters and suit the formulation type.
   • Check all inputs comply with local country regulations and are compatible with the selected sunscreen ingredients.
5. Add compatible film formers for water resistance.
6. Double check the formula for stability and compatibility, remembering a stable formula with good spread helps yield the best possible SPF.

Then you are ready to source your materials and start preparing samples!

Watch these videos to see further guidance and sunscreen formulas:

• How to make a SPF50+ sunscreen formula
• How to make a natural sunscreen formula
• Clear sunscreen gel formula with glitter
• How to make zinc stick SPF30+
• How to make clear sunscreen stick SPF25
• SPF boosters – boost the SPF of your sunscreen formulas
• How to make organic SPF15 serum

Happy formulating!

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

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To have Korean ‘glass’ skin is the epitome of beauty in the east – so much so this ideal is also highly sought after in the west. Glass skin appears perfectly clear without blemishes or pores and is incredibly radiant. This blog explains how to formulate Korean skincare to achieve the ideal glass skin.

Another place to get insights on the latest K-Beauty trends is at in-cosmetics Korea. Happening in Seoul on 12-14th July and featuring the K-Beauty Inspiration Zone, it will give you more in-depth knowledge into K-Beauty and its trends.

Essential Korean cosmetic ingredients

Reputable skincare brands in Korea contain a host of traditional and modern active ingredients. Some of these hail benefits from traditional Korean medicine, but all have very natural origins. To harness the essence of Korean skincare, make sure your cosmetic formulas contain at least a few of these ingredients:

• Korean ginseng extract – also known as Panax ginseng, this ancient root goes back millennia in traditional Korean medicine for a myriad of benefits. Korean ginseng extract is most widely used in leave on skincare for its anti-ageing benefits, as it helps reduce fine lines and brighten the appearance of the skin for a more youthful appearance. Learn how to add liquid herbal extracts to formulas with this video.
• Licorice root extract – another plant extract with its origins in traditional Eastern medicine, licorice root is a favourite in Korean skincare for its skin lightening, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory results. Look for extracts particularly rich in glycyrrhizic acid for the most potent benefits; and layer it in a few leave on products for outstanding visible effects. Some licorice extract comes in a powdered form; watch how to add powdered extracts to formulas with this video. 
• Gotu kola extract – also known as Centella asiatica extract, this is yet another herbal extract with traditions in medicine. In skin care, gotu kola is used for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits to calm and sooth the skin – an ideal ingredient to help achieve the appearance of glass skin.
• Yuza (yuja) extract – sourced from the pristine Jeju island, yuza extract is extremely rich in vitamin C for skin lightening and softening benefits. This is an important ingredient in serums or moisturisers as part of an overall skin care regime.
• Snail mucin (also listed as snail secretion filtrate) – rich in hydrolysed glycosaminoglycans, this highly purified filtrate is a favourite amongst Koreans for its hydrating and suppleness benefits. Its skin plumping and luminosity results can be seen almost immediately and can even boost delivery of other actives.
• Rice water – ideal to replace some of the water in a formulation, rice water boasts significant skin toning and firming benefits. It is ideal for pore refining in micellar cleansing and serum formulas. Get inspiration from our video rice milk micellar cleanser.
• Bamboo water, extract or exfoliant – bamboo water and extract both refine the pores and soothe the skin for a luminous complexion; while finely ground bamboo gives a delightfully soft but effective exfoliating polish, just perfect to make that glass skin perfectly smooth.
• Pearl extract – what is more luminous and perfect than a pearl? Pearl extract is rich in minerals to provide the same visible results in skincare.
• Propolis – sourced naturally from beehives, this important structuring and anti-bacterial ingredient is a nutrient powerhouse with multiple benefits for the skin. At least one of the products in your Korean skincare range should contain this multi-active ingredient.

Other ingredients your Korean skincare formulas will benefit from include:

• Vitamin C – can be used in products where you are not already using yuza extract;
• Hyaluronic acid – with suppleness boosting benefits, it is an essential ingredient in most Korean moisturising creams. Read how to choose the best hyaluronic acid for your cosmetic formulas in this blog;
• Green tea extract – antioxidant rich, it is also commonly found in Korean cosmetic formulas;
• Collagen – provides essential structuring and moisture protective benefits, learn how to use and select protein, peptides and collagen in cosmetic formulas with this video.

The skincare products needed for Korean glass skin

Korean skincare routines contain a long list of products for a layered approach. Make sure the selection of actives and ingredients in your cosmetic formulas delivers just the right amount of each for the best results.

1. The double cleanse:
   1. the first cleanse is an oil-based balm or serum to remove make up and stubborn pollutants. Watch how to make natural cleansing oils and balms with this video.
   2. the second cleanse is to remove any oily residues and ensure pores are open for a deep clean. Watch how to create a gentle but deep cleansing micellar cleansing foam here.
2. Exfoliate: use a crème based exfoliant with a natural exfoliating ingredient. Watch this video for a variety of natural exfoliant ingredients.
3. Toner: the toner should provide instant tightening and pore refining benefits; rice water is an ideal addition here.
4. Serum: the serum could be a non-greasy oil based serum, but would more commonly be a water based serum formula with an active mentioned at the start of this article to lay the foundation of hydration. The serum should leave the skin looking dewy but without residue, as more products are yet to be applied.
5. Moisturise: the moisturiser should be a very light gel-cream formula packed with hydrating and skin lightening benefits. Products for more mature skin should promote anti-ageing and skin lightening benefits. The moisturiser is all about bringing the glow to the skin without greasiness.
6. Sunscreen: an SPF protective product is essential for day use, to reduce any tanning or damaging impact of the sun. Koreans admire light, luminous skin – UV is the enemy of this goal! Read our overview of how to make sunscreen formulas here.
7. Face masks: a staple in the Korean skincare routine, face masks are used to enhance the hydrating, lightening and perfecting effects of the other products in your range. Face masks are typically used three times a week, or sometimes more; and the traditional sheet mask is slowly being replaced by the more environmentally friendly sleep-in mask.

Koreans are also quite playful with their skincare – so they may look for funky or different product forms for the above products. Watch this playlist for some fun and creative skincare formulas to really wow your target market with different product formula solutions for their skincare needs.

Korean skincare is all about hydrating and caring for the skin – you won’t see harsh or powerful chemical peels in their routines! Instead, their layering effect is designed to soothe and comfort the skin with the right actives for a gentle yet effective brightening and luminosity results.

Bring glass skin results to women all over the world with these ingredient and formulating tips.

Happy formulating!

Fascinated with Korean skincare? Visit in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul from 12 to 14 July!

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Have you ever noticed how flawless a Japanese woman’s skin appears? Incorporate the secrets of Japanese skin care into your product line with these ingredients – and explore those you have not heard of yet – when talking with your suppliers.

The essential Japanese cosmetic ingredients

Before we take a look at some of the newer and exotic Japanese cosmetic ingredient launches, lets take a look at the ingredients most commonly used and promoted in Japanese skincare ranges.

If you want to incorporate Japanese skincare know-how into your cosmetic formulas, you’ll need at least a few of these in various products so your consumers are confident in your product range and Japanese cosmetic ingredient knowledge.

• Camellia (Tsubaki) oil – rich in antioxidants and omega-9 fatty acids, it has a beautifully light, non-greasy skin feel making it perfect in all types of emulsions, serums and even cleansing oils.
• Green tea extract – long heralded for its antioxidant properties, green tea extract is an essential ingredient in any Japanese inspired skincare range, and suits all water-based products.
• Hinoki oil – used mainly for its refreshing scent, it also has anti-inflammatory benefits. It can be added to enhance the aroma of most types of cosmetic formulas.
• Rice bran oil – naturally rich in squalene, this light-skin feel oil is a mainstay in a variety of skincare formulas for its reparative benefits to the skin.
• Wakame kelp extract – another antioxidant rich ingredient, it is also incredibly hydrating; the extract is ideal to use in all water based leave on skincare products for an extra burst of long-last moisture.
• Yuzu seed – both the oil form and extract form are highly regarded for their antioxidant, skin renewal and even whitening benefits. Because it can be obtained in both water based extract and oil forms, it can be added to just about any type of cosmetic formula.

And while they don’t originate from Japan, you’ll find hyaluronic acid and collagen in most cosmetic formulas for their supportive, hydrating and suppleness boosting benefits.

Read how to choose the best hyaluronic acid for your cosmetic formulas in this blog; and all about protein, peptides and collagen in cosmetic formulas with this video.

Some exciting Japanese cosmetic ingredients you may not have heard of…

One of the great things about Japanese skincare formulations is they are not afraid to harness the benefits of more traditional ingredients whilst combining them with newer research and technologies.

Below are some fantastic Japanese inspired ingredients your cosmetic formulas may benefit from.

• Cherry blossom (Sakura) extract – as beautiful and delicate as the flower, that’s exactly what the extract can do for the skin; it’s heralded for its soothing and moisturising properties. Being water based it is ideal in a variety of serum and emulsion based skincare.
• Hydrolyzed egg shell membrane – a water soluble cosmetic ingredient with evidence that it promotes type III collagen to restore suppleness to the skin; it is ideal in anti-ageing serums and emulsions.
• Placental protein – placental protein is a highly purified animal derived cosmetic active that is rich in biomimetic amino acids to whiten the skin and support skin renewal. It is also reputed to be soothing and hydrating.
• Pueraria lobata extract – available from a few different suppliers with obviously different extraction techniques, this plant extract is reputed to have whitening and skin firming benefits ideal for serum and emulsion based products.
• Rosa rugosa stem cells – advanced stem cell biotechnology harnessing the key benefits of the Japanese wildrose. These stem cells are reported to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits for anti-pollution and skin rejuvenation. It can also brighten and whiten the skin whilst restoring hydration.

If you are new to using traditional extracts in skincare formulas, read this blog for essential tips on how to choose and use herbal extracts in cosmetic formulas.

Japanese skincare goes beyond the cosmetic ingredients

Feeling inspired by these Japanese ingredients? Well, great Japanese skincare formulas go beyond just the ingredients they use, it is also the product form and range that is important.

• Cleansing oils are commonly used as a gentle make-up remover, followed by a crème or extremely low foaming cleanser. Watch how to make cleansing oils and balms in this video, and oil-to-milk cleansers in this video.
• Crème-gels are the favoured form of moisturiser, compared to the heavier creams used in the West. Japanese skincare goals are all about non-greasy hydration whilst delivering key actives, so you’ll find their skincare exceptionally light with a long-lasting moisturising skin feel. Learn the key ingredients, and how to formulate crème-gels with this video. 
• Serums and eye creams are common add ons – Japanese skincare regimes often use a multi-product, layered approach similar to K-beauty. Find out how to formulate non-greasy face serums in this video.
• Encapsulates and eye-catching product forms are also favoured, especially in serum and highly active skincare. Get innovative cosmetic formula inspiration from these videos: butter-in-gel formula; how to make your own encapsulates and how to make natural encapsulates.

And remember the key Japanese cosmetic formulation concept of working in harmony with the skin to soothe and hydrate for a wholistic approach to your Japanese inspired range.

Make sure you investigate these actives, and the functional ingredients used to create Japanese inspired product forms, with your supplier. These materials not only make great product stories but also provide fantastic results for women in all parts of the world.

Happy formulating!

Want to find out more about Japanese ingredients? 2023 is Japan Country Focus at in-cosmetics Korea! Find out more and register to visit the show in Seoul on 12 – 14 July 2023.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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