(Sponsored)

We caught up with Enrique Jambrina, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer at In Silico Discovery to find out more about their approach, benefits for end users and future trends

In-Silico Discovery is one of these trailblazing start-ups that designs cosmetic actives with computational techniques – can you tell us more about the company’s DNA?

The people behind ISD are really the engine that made this company a reality.

José María García Antón, the founder, is a well-known entrepreneur known for efficiently translating scientific research into marketed products (i.e.: Lipotec, LipoTrue  The Deep Blue Sea Enterprise, PrimaDerm, etc).

He was the first one to think of  taking advantage of the knowledge developed by pharmaceutical companies when approaching a disease through a specific protein or mechanism of action, and the possibilities that applying those technologies could offer for the cosmetic and biotechnological fields.

Around this original concept he has been able to gather people with experience in the cosmetic field, in the creation of biotechnology-based start-ups, in pharma project design and execution, and, in computational drug discovery and design – the latter being possible through a solid technological partnership with Nostrum Biodiscovery.

As a brand-new company, the technological advances in the field of computer science offer us the possibility to efficiently identify new active molecules through virtual screening and de novo design without the need to run costly experiments.

In Silico Discovery (ISD) was then founded with the objective of developing a target-based computational approach for the efficient discovery of new potential actives with application in the cosmetic and biotechnological areas.

What makes In-Silico Discovery’s offering so unique?

We have built our own portfolio following a target-based approach. We have a strong interest in modulating the activity of the different cell types found in the epidermis (Merkel, Langerhans, melanocytes and keratinocytes) as well as in the communication between the nerve endings and these cells.

We have focused our first set of targets on the keratinocytes stem cell population present in the basal cell layer, which has been described as decreasing during ageing.

With this objective in mind, we have navigated through scientific literature to identify targets (proteins) which would have a role in controlling the functionality of this cell population, mainly through their proliferation and barrier functions.

Those selected targets are then modelled in-silico and analysed in the search for possible binding sites where our new molecules will be directed, potentially affecting its conformation and then its function.

The collaboration with Nostrum Biodiscovery gives us access to a series of proprietary algorithms such as PELEplat, pyDock and  ED/MD Suite Simulation as well as their knowledge around ligand-protein interactions.

There are a few companies that offer computational services, but we are unique in offering our own selection of actives selected with proprietary in-silico tools, algorithms and molecule virtual libraries.

What are the key benefits for end users?

This in-silico approach focused on a specific target protein offers a highly efficient method in the early stages of active ingredients identification, speeding up discovery and avoiding the use of precious experimental resources, which can be focused on key experiments.

This methodology also provides a strong scientific hypothesis about the mechanism of action for these new cosmetic actives.

From our own experience, the projects can take 3 to 6 months depending on the target and the strategy followed which could be based in the identification of small peptides as binders of the protein of interest or the design of a novel small protein that will mimic the function of the original target, and which is easier to obtain than the original one.

Before starting any of our projects we perform a patent search to guarantee a significant level of freedom to operate. Lastly, our clients will find a list of novel molecules selected by the most advanced in-silico algorithms predicting their binding properties, ready to be synthesized, tested, and incorporated in their formulations.

Our findings and the strategy followed to identify those actives are protected by Trade Secret offering the end-users the possibility to fulfil a patent.

What does the future look like for In-Silico Discovery? What future trends can you predict in the world of cosmetic actives design?  

Over the past few years, there has been an exponential increase in the knowledge of the mechanisms and genes involved in the ageing process and their implication in the origin and progression of different diseases such as oncology, inflammation, and neurodegeneration.

This interest has been echoed in the creation of new scientific journals (i.e.: Nature Aging), and the creation of companies like Altos Labs, focused on cellular rejuvenation programming.

Keeping a broad point of view when designing future cosmetic formulations will then be critical in order to apply those findings from other scientific areas into the cosmetic sector.

Topics such as senescence, autophagy, or mitochondria health are already of interest in the maintenance of skin homeostasis and such processes could be influenced by specific proteins whose functions we will be able to modulate.

On the other hand, the continuous and fascinating developments in the AI and machine learning fields, such as the design of de novo proteins, or the combination of different activities in just one molecule, will offer new and exciting ways to identify new actives in a very effective manner.

It will also continue to offer a new perspective on the modulation of those signalling pathways essential for skin health.

Find out more about In-Silico Discovery

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At the onset of every summer, many organizations publish their newest lists of the best sunscreens for that season. These lists tend not to agree with one another, and so the associated debates and disagreements continue, one season after another.

The root cause of this situation appears to be the less-than-clear definition of sunscreen performance, as well as its related testing methods.

Accordingly, let us attempt to explain this situation in layman’s terms and in the hopes of advancing better ideas from dedicated professionals in this field.

Let’s start by randomly quoting one of the latest best sunscreen lists: In CNN’s “The best sunscreens in 2023 tested by editors”, it is stated, “we didn’t test how well these sunscreens protect skin from the sun — for that, we relied on information from the US Food and Drug Administration and the experts we talked to.

Too many variables (skin type, time of day, the sun’s intensity, etc.) made it impossible to accurately measure efficacy in our real-world testing.

Rather, we had multiple testers with different skin types and tones test them for other variables such as feel, appearance on the skin, smell, ease of application and more.”

In other words, the performance and effectiveness of sunscreen, which are the primary reasons for using the product, have become so confusing that most people avoid the topic altogether.

Instead, they focus only on the sensory factors. Of course, sunscreens should be pleasant to wear so that people are willing to apply them. However, sensory factors should not replace effectiveness in the judgments of product quality.

We will focus on the performance aspect of sunscreen in our discussion here.

The metric most often used when describing sunscreen performance is SPF, the Sunscreen Performance Factor, which is a measurement of how long it takes for UV rays to hit and damage your skin. For example, SPF 30 means that when you wear this sunscreen, it will take you 30 times longer to burn compared to when you are not wearing any sunscreen at all.

Essentially, the sunscreen industry has adopted a performance metric that measures the UV ray dosage that reaches skin with sunscreen applied relative to the dosage that reaches skin without sunscreen.

Consequently, there are many variables that impact the measurable performance and apparent effectiveness of sunscreen. Skin type and irradiation source are commonly mentioned, as in the CNN article from earlier.

These two factors are important, but they are relatively easy to control. The skin type of a particular consumer is fixed, and when comparing the skin’s reaction to irradiation with and without sunscreen, the same sunlight source is normally used.

The largest variable influencing sunscreen’s effectiveness on a consumer’s skin is the amount of sunscreen applied and the quality of that application.

Due to the nature of UV prevention ingredients,  consumers cannot see with the naked eye the sunscreen that they have applied to their skin.

Therefore, they cannot easily judge if they have applied enough sunscreen or applied it evenly. However, the amount and uniformity of sunscreen on skin are the primary factors that determine the effectiveness of a particular sunscreen application.

Consumers are often told to use one ounce of sunscreen on their entire body; in other words, approximately enough sunscreen to fill a shot glass. This is obviously vague and not at all quantitative.

As for the quality of sunscreen application, which determines the uniformity of coverage on skin, this is even more difficult to perceive and is rarely conveyed to consumers.

The performances of sunscreens are professionally tested before the sunscreens are put on the market. There are several standard testing methods instituted by governmental and industrial regulatory organizations, but they are essentially the same in that they all measure the relative UV ray dosage that reaches the skin with and without sunscreen applied.

In these testing methods, the type of skin (substrate), the type of light source (irradiation), the amount of sunscreen (weight per area), and the end point (skin reddening or darkening) are carefully specified.

However, the quality of application (uniformity of coverage) is not carefully controlled or monitored. The end point determination is often a visual determination and is therefore not very quantitative.

These factors, coupled with the fact that tests are often measuring the last few percentages of the total irradiation reaching skin, make accurate sunscreen performance testing a well-known challenge.

For example, to tell the difference between SPF 50 (100/2) and SPF 100 (100/1) is to measure the difference between 2% and 1% of the original UV irradiation; consequently, small variations in measurements can lead to large differences in the calculated SPF.

As such, there have been many reported conflicts regarding the reliability of sunscreen efficacy tests.

In addition, it is logically challenging to test and label the performance of a sunscreen product when the product’s true performance is only on display after it is properly applied to a skin. It’s like trying to test a tube of oil paint to determine its degree of virtuosity, even though it can only attain virtuosity after being applied to canvas by a virtuoso.

The intended objective of applying sunscreen is to prevent harmful sun rays from reaching the consumer’s skin. Therefore, the only true test of a sunscreen’s effectiveness needs to be performed in real time, on the skin, and in a real-life scenario.

While an easy and convenient way to measure the real-life performance of sunscreen is not yet widely available, we hope that the obvious need for such a technology will soon motivate its invention.

Once a relevant performance metric becomes available to everyday consumers, they will be able to easily pick the best performing products. When that happens, the sunscreen industry will be fundamentally changed.

As we have detailed in past articles, sunscreen technologies that allow for pleasant and uniform coverage on skin are essential to the creation of sunscreen products that perform well in real life.

These products will enable every consumer to easily master the art of sunscreen application, thereby becoming the obvious number one pick of every best sunscreen list.

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Today is Sunday December 31st, 2023 (!) and I can imagine I’d be analyzing the last 12 months, paying special attention to innovation in haircare over the course of the year gone by… How dynamic was  innovation in the hair segment? What will the future be like I wondered, whilst remembering some facts that marked some disruptive hair product launches…

It’d be nice to predict future trends and be active on the last day of the year building a haircare strategy and identifying the trends embarking on new hair projects that will impact the market during 2023.

Haircare will maintain great empathy with consumers and their needs whilst considering personalization, scalp, emotions, professional finishing and sustainability in new launches.

The hair cosmetics category has a projected CAGR of 5.6% in the period 2022-2028 according to Fortune Business, which represents a great opportunity globally. So, let’s have a look at 10 trends that will inspire us with the latest technological advances in science and the industry.

Hairbiome

The microbiome of hair and scalp is specific to everyone and it can be modified with consumer habits or conditions. That is how, recently research by Watanabe and colleagues in Nature reports found that hair strands contain Pseudomonas in a greater proportion, and Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus coexist on the scalp with distinguishable profiles from other skin areas.

Also, Cutibacterium, Lawsonella and Moxarella decrease due to hair styling while Pseudomona does it with bleaching.

Another study presented at IFSCC 2022 showed a decrease of Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus in people with androgenetic alopecia (AGA). This new knowledge has direct application in the hair industry which can recommend a healthy hair routine accompanied with a microbiome analysis!

Neurohair

The skin-brain connection is well documented. What about hair?

Mechanisms with the nervous system and hair growth are being investigated. At IFSCC 2022 we saw an active ingredient that binds to olfactory receptors expressed in the follicle and promotes hair growth indicating a target of interest.

Neuroscience techniques (electroencephalography EEG, galvanic response GSR, eye tracking) together with AI and VR tools allow us to evaluate the connection of fragrances and the response of consumers to hair product. We will analyse how neuroscience and predictions mix!

Hair saves the planet 

The hairdresser startup Green Salón Collective gives the vision of Hair as Biomaterial. The disruptive innovation of this company is to re-use haircut. 5 tons of hair as: a) Fertilizer (72,000 tons/year from the salon end up in landfills in Europe) and b) Oil absorbent material.

Haircuts packaged in cotton or nylon tubes form powerful barriers to stop oil spills contributing to sea decontamination. Planet care opens up new opportunities in haircare.

Vegan hair

Alternatives to traditional hair material are booming, giving greater naturalness and performance in formulations.

Aja Labs is developing a biodegradable plant-derived polymer with excellent softness and shine characteristics to replace hair extensions. This vegan hair together with ecofriendly dyes (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) are alternative biomaterials that will conquer the hair market.

Virtual hair

The brand Madison Reed recently launched a virtual hair colour test app using AR technology from Perfect Corp. The app allows consumers to try on more than 50 hair colours virtually, giving them confidence about their next colour style.

Likewise, AI and Machine Learning are useful to study active ingredients with anti-hair loss activity and predict compounds with antioxidant action in the follicle! The new hair claims developed with this technology will be thickening, regeneration, controlling alopecia and grey hair.

Hair devices

The portable device Rootonix Dr. Finger Volume Booster, presented at CES 2023, diagnoses hair health by evaluating the conditions of the scalp and hair loss, keeping the consumers informed and accompanying them professionally with a technological treatment from home.

We hope that it will be launched to the global market in 2023. technology for use by hairdressers is being implemented by Schwarzkopf’s SalonLab Smart Analyzer, where hair is analyzed offering customization. Device development will be rising exponentially in 2023.

Exosomes

Exosomes are small extracellular microvesicles that release mRNAs, microRNAs, cytokines, and growth factors. Studies demonstrated that exosome therapies can combat hair loss as well as stem cell exosome composition promotes hair growth.

Will we see an anti-loss exosome spray in our daily routine? We don’t know, but we are certain that in 2023 it will be a topic of interest.

Hair efficiency

Do you know we can spend up to 15 liters of water washing hair? This has been corroborated by a SCSS study report to calculate Water Footprint.

Innovations such as L’Oreal’s Water Saver which combines micronization technology with formulations infused directly into the water jet in a dispensing device, allow for a 60% reduction in water consumption.

Also, the REDUIT HAIRPODS based on magnetic nebulization contain a hair conditioner in an aerosol of drops 50 times smaller than a traditional product; it improves the product spread, penetration, and fixation. Five mL of the HAIRPOD is equivalent to 100-200 mL of treatment, Decreasing the number of ingredients in the process. We will see massification of these types of products with cost-benefit efficiency!

Premature anti-hair loss antioxidants

Controlling the oxidative stress in the bulb and scalp contributes to the reduction of hair loss. The manganese thiophosphite has a greater capacity for hair regeneration compared to Minoxidil, according to the study carried out in China by Zhang and colleagues in Nanolett magazine.

We will see a boom in the prevention and fight against premature baldness and exposomes that affect hair health!

New formats

We already saw disruptive innovations such as beer-type shampoo with ferments that promote hair health and ice cream-type treatments that provoke fiber care into a hedonic world.

Now, we will see new formats inspired by face care such as hair tonics and moisturizers to strengthen the scalp, and specialized treatments in the strengthening bond trend which penetrate the fiber and repair it from the inside with formats that improve effectiveness in the capillary cortex.

We are on a challenging path for 2023, which will take us to a new world and will review these trends at the end of the year with results leading us onto a new adventure.

Want to see haircare ingredients come to life? Visit Spotlight On at in-cosmetics Asia

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Sponsored – by Active Concepts

Tap into an innovative approach to neurocosmetics and upcycling. Say goodbye to outdated notions and make way for a new era where wrinkles are no longer ‘imperfections’ but rather stories of our journey!

The ability of the senses to help shoppers create long-lasting emotional and memory-based experiences is what gives them such significance in the cosmetic industry. Consumer interest in the relationship between cosmetics and biological responses, as well as how scientifically they might enhance feelings, mood, senses, and skin health, is at an all-time high.

The notion behind neurocosmetics is that some topical ingredients have the power to influence the skin, stimulate the neurological system, and have a positive impact on our wellness by evoking certain feelings and experiences. The recent discovery that bitter receptors exist not only on the tongue but also throughout the entire epidermis may mark a new age for the study of neurocosmetics and present new potential for the creation of cutting-edge cosmetics.

Active Concepts has developed AC AmaraSense: a bitter blend comprised of licorice root, willow bark, and artichoke extract, substances recognized for their bitter taste and positive effects both on body and skin health. Licorice root is characterized by glycyrrhetinic acid, it is recognized for antioxidative, lenitive, and antimicrobial activities, white willow bark extract is characterized by tannic acid, it is known for wound healing and antimicrobial properties – artichoke is recognized for its purifying properties, and is rich in antioxidants that help to prevent oxidant stress and promote skin health.

AC AmaraSense represents a new ingredient launch that serves as the basis for creating cutting-edge cosmetics that activate sensory receptors on the skin and provide customers with new perspectives on how to take care of their skin and attain a glowing complexion. A distinctive and alluring narrative for a simple-to-use water-soluble product that can satisfy the growing demands of the modern consumer: a scientifically supported, efficient, and innovative beauty regimen.

Moreover, a new way of thinking about anti-aging has emerged as a result of the movement toward self-care and well-being that was heavily promoted during the COVID-19 epidemic. Consumers are more realistic about the anticipated outcomes now that anti-aging marketing that promised to erase wrinkles and other aging symptoms has  instantly ended. The skin is seen by the younger generation as an extension of the body. Self-acceptance is a prevailing trend nowadays. In this context, the idea of “positive aging” is gaining popularity.

Diet has a huge impact on our looks, health, and happiness. A diet rich in fresh produce, whole grains, lean protein, and low in sugar is highly advised and the Mediterranean diet, one of the healthiest diets that is great for your body and health, places a big emphasis on olive oil. The cultivation of olive trees, the production of olive oil, and the use of olive oil have all been known and practiced in the Mediterranean region for over 7000 years.

When olive oil is extracted, only a small portion of the total number of polyphenols in the olives are transferred to the oil, while a sizable portion is kept as olive vegetation fluids (OVW).  OVW used to be dispersed throughout farms, but because of their heavy organic pollution, they had a detrimental effect on the ecosystem. In light of sustainability, it is now more important than ever to revitalize olive waste.

Active Concepts is tackling this environmental concern head-on and turning a problem into a sustainable solution with AC OleaShield. The biofermentation of recycled olive vegetation water used to develop AC OleaShield gives it powerful antioxidant qualities by way of the autophagy detoxifying process. With this new active ingredient, Active Concepts is able to utilize renewable resources ethically and efficiently while providing advantages for the skin, including preserving skin homeostasis to combat age-related reduction in skin cell function.

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Attendees seeking clean beauty solutions lead the fore at this year’s in-cosmetics Global

22 February 2023: Ingredients that respond to the clean beauty trend will take centre stage at this year’s in-cosmetics Global. The sector ranks as a clear favourite among cosmetic manufacturers and R&D specialists, with two-thirds (65%) of the top product views responding to this growing beauty trend, according to product directory searches.

Anticipated to grow at a robust CAGR of 40.1%, the global clean beauty market is expected to reach $37.65 billion by 2028 . It has rapidly gained momentum as conscious consumers look for products made from ingredients that are safe, non-toxic and have the lowest possible impact on the environment. Far from a new trend, sustainable beauty and wellbeing have been on the rise over the past few years, with the Soil Association Certification declaring 2022 as its 11th consecutive year of growth based on the progression of certified organic beauty and wellbeing products.

The Association’s Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market Report revealed that nearly half (48%) of consumers are now more concerned about the environment than prior to the pandemic and 55% are more likely to purchase environmentally friendly products .

Other notable trends making it to the top of attendees ‘must-sees’ at this year’s event include personalisation (25%), while wellbeing and CBD share the third spot, with 15% of the top product views.

Ingredient Innovation

Among the exhibitors unveiling trending ingredients at this year’s event, Active Concepts S.r.L will respond to two of this year’s biggest trends – clean beauty and CBD. Its 20829-ProCutiGen® Bond is a lipopeptide derived from chia seeds. It can be utilised for hair strength and protection thanks to its rich source of protein, helping to prime hair cuticles and prevent damage, ideal for chemically treated hair.

It will also highlight its AC Hemp Oil Liposome PF, which capitalises on the potent anti-inflammatory benefits associated with hemp oil and CBD. It uses encapsulation technology to enhance activity and stability, while the inhibition of Interleukin-6 activity is thought to alleviate the chronic inflammatory process, which is linked to skin ageing.

Fellow exhibitor, Laboratoires Expanscience will demonstrate its skin and hair sebum regulator, made from upcycled avocados. 5α-Avocuta® T is an oil-based natural active ingredient that helps regulate sebum secretion by inhibiting 5 α-reductase activity. In a haircare application, it is proven to reduce dandruff by 67%, and greasy hair appearance by 78% in just three weeks. When used in skincare, it can reduce the greasy appearance of the T-zone by 78% .

Microcaps will introduce attendees to its novel microencapsulation technique which enables the
fabrication of highly uniform and microplastic-free beads to enhance the sensory and visual qualities of cosmetic products and to deliver water and oil-based actives. Selco Wirkstoffe Vertriebs GmbH will profile its 18-ß-Glycyrrhetic acid, which is obtained by hydrolysis of Glycyrrhicinate from the roots of Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It will also welcome attendees to see and try Bromelain (100), a natural plant protease that is derived from pineapple strains.

Discover the latest ingredient launches

Taking place at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via from 28-30 March 2023 – the first time back in the Catalonia capital since 2015 – more than 800 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are anticipated to showcase the latest ingredient suppliers. Among them, 80% of the top 20 global cosmetics ingredient suppliers will be in attendance. This includes BASF, Croda, Ashland, Solvay, Clariant, Momentive, Evonik, Lubrizol, Nouryon, Arxada (formerly Lonza Specialty Ingredients), Stepan Europe, Wacker, Shin-Etsu, Roquette, DSM and Symrise. Meanwhile, over 140 new exhibitors will exhibit for the first time, including AntalGenics, Cellugy ApS, Escruder, Innomost and Sequential Bio.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “With a growing emphasis on sustainability and the continued efforts of consumers to make more conscious choices of the products they consume and dispose of, it is unsurprising that clean beauty continues to dominate. And, with more than 400 exhibitors confirmed to showcase ingredients that respond to the clean beauty movement, we have no doubt that attendees will leave this year’s in-cosmetics Global with an abundance of ideas and ingredients that meet this ever-growing trend.”

in-cosmetics Global returns from 28-30 March 2023 at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via Conference Centre. For more information and to register to attend, visit the website. 

For more information on this year’s exhibitors, visit the Exhibitor Directory

Is finding the right cosmetic ingredients a challenge? See how easy we make it. Start your search with in-cosmetics Discover, powered by Covalo.

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Launched January 2019 by:

Vegan is the most popular rising trend in beauty industry. But regarding collagen beauty industry, there are a lot of pain points because collagen used in cosmetic field are still mainly sourced from animals. To align people’s topical daily care with their inner faith in collagen application, we Jland biotech offers our solution- Biollagen. Biollagen is a kind of yeast-fermented 100% animal free collagen which is also tests approved highly effective and safe.

Details

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Launched May 2020 by:

WONDERAGE is a well-ageing, natural active ingredient derived
from the Monk Fruit that balances the epigenetics of mature skin and restores radiance for a natural beauty. Mature women feel
delighted and the product’s impact on emotional wellbeing was demonstrated using artificial intelligence.

WONDERAGE properties:

1. Improves the dermal structure by boosting endogenous hyaluronic acid and strengthening collagen fibers.
2. Responds to the needs of mature skin in terms of luminosity, hydration, density and wrinkle reduction on eye contour and the neck.
3. Impacts on well-being: 67% of volunteers feel delighted according
   to the neuro-study conducted using artificial intelligence.
4. Halal-certified, Cosmos, Vegan and China IECIC listed compliance.

Details

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Launched March 2020 by

Starting from supremely nutritious fresh organic Fenugreek sprouts, AKOTT’s researchers have developed AKOSKY KISS: a powerful lipophilic active which has the extraordinary ability to maximise lip volume and minimise vertical “barcode” wrinkles.

• Controlled laboratory conditions for Fenugreek seeds sprouting enhance product safety, quality, reproducibility, and allow massive water saving
• AKOSKY KISS is colourless, odourless, and tasteless
• In vitro tests show that AKOSKY KISS modulates proteins that stimulate adipocytes differentiation and lipid accumulation. Clinical studies show an increase of lip volume up to +22.4% and amelioration of vertical labial fissures visibility after only 28 days.”

Details

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Launched March 2020 by

ALGAKTIV BodySKN is a unique blend of microalgae barrier polysaccharides that delivers a holistic body care to balance stressed skin.

Taking sustainability to a new level, ALGAKTIV creates the next generation of green ingredients for skincare by upcycling a microalgae by-product obtained from an already sustainable production of natural astaxanthin. Sustainability at its finest.

Details

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Launched March 2020 by

Alpine Rose Active” is the first cosmetic ingredient that was shown to express a senolytic activity in the skin. This novel anti-aging mechanism eliminates specifically senescent cells in a tissue.

The product is based on an extract of organic alpine rose leaves. In vitro and clinical studies have shown that Alpine Rose Active rejuvenates the skin by eliminating senescent cells without harming normal cells. Additionally, the active inhibits harmful protein carbonylation.

• First cosmetic ingredient with senolytic activity – eliminates specifically senescent cells
• Significantly reduces skin redness and increases elasticity
• Organic extract from handpicked Swiss alpine rose leaves”

Details

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