30 SEPTEMBER, LONDON: in-cosmetics Global has today released its new report, Unlocking Potential: Meet the SMEs Driving Innovation in Cosmetics. The report explores the impact and influence that small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) are having on a market segment set to generate US$646.20bn this year[1].

Despite the perceived dominance of beauty giants and large corporations in shaping the cosmetics and personal care industry, the SME community, often overlooked, plays a crucial role in upholding and fostering the global sector’s development and growth. According to the British Beauty Council[2], of the 5000+ beauty brands operating in the UK alone, 95% of these are SMEs, generating around £7 billion for the wider economy.

In recent years, SMEs have been widely commended for swiftly adapting to changing consumer and industry-led preferences and trends, serving as incubators for experimentation and creativity, shaping the broader cosmetics landscape. Gathering firsthand insights and experiences from experts in the space, this report delves into the characteristics of SMEs in the industry, key challenges they face in the modern-day beauty and personal care market (such as raw material sourcing and some suppliers’ minimum order quantities), as well as opportunities and predictions for the future.

Pioneering brands and suppliers that have contributed to the report include Elsa Pomès, Co-Founder at Atelier Populaire; Emma Thornton, Founder and Owner at TRUE Skincare; Antti Kamarainen, Market Development Director at Boreal Bioproducts; Frédéric Soudin, Director at Martial Cosmetics; and Michela Pollastri, Strategic Business Unit Manager at Abich.

Commenting on the launch, Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director of in-cosmetics Global, said: “SMEs play a vital role in the industry’s evolution in that they serve niche markets, seek out untapped opportunities, and drive new ways of innovation. The nature of these companies often means they have an ear to the ground when it comes to consumer trends and supplier demands, giving them significant influence in the beauty market.

“Despite the challenges that many face, they continue to demonstrate remarkable resilience and creativity, helping to drive the continuous growth and progression of the industry. This report aims to acknowledge and celebrate these businesses, given their prominence at the show.”

To download the full report, please visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/sme-mini-report.html

in-cosmetics Global returns from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register to attend, visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb.html

[1] https://www.statista.com/outlook/cmo/beauty-personal-care/worldwide

[2] https://britishbeautycouncil.com/small-business-saturday/

Headliner Sponsor

About RX

RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

About RELX

RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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16 April, Paris

Today, the winners of the prestigious 2024 in-cosmetics Global Awards, sponsored by Kenvue, have been unveiled during the live ceremony at the event located at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris.

Visitors and exhibitors from the global personal care industry united at the official in-cosmetics Global Awards and After Party this evening to celebrate excellence in cosmetic science amongst some of the leading names in the industry.

An acclaimed and international panel of up to 40 judges from the likes of Kenvue, Ecovia Intelligence, Unilever, Coty, Haleon, and more, narrowed down 83 shortlisted entries this year to select winners for the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient Award, the Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient Award, the Green Ingredient Award, the Kenvue Trusted Science Award, the Sustainable Stand Award, the Rising Star Award, the Sensory Bar Award, and the Make Up Bar Award.

The highly regarded Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient Award and Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient Award attracted a record-number of entries this year, entering for the chance to take home some of the most prestigious accolades in the industry.

INNOVATION ZONE BEST INGREDIENT AWARDS

Awarded Gold for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award in the Active Ingredients category was raw materials and ingredients manufacturer, dsm-firmenich, for its ETERWELL YOUTH . A true senolytic active made from Epilobium Fleischeri leaf/stem extract, the active ingredient boosts collagen, helps revert skin damage induced by zombie cells in excess, and helps slow down the premature ageing of skin, amongst other benefits.

Cosmetics ingredient supplier, Mibelle Biochemistry, secured the Silver award for RejuveNAD, an active ingredient which optimizes cellular functions to revitalize the skin by naturally boosting the longevity molecule, NAD+. CODIF TN was awarded Bronze for its REGETASTE, which strengthens the skin’s barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smoother, softer, fresher and more radiant.

In the Functional Ingredients category, specialty chemicals leader, Evonik, secured first prize for its ECOHANCE® Remo XP, a versatile and mild ingredient that functions as a rheology modifier, hydrophilic emollient and sensory enhancer. The functional ingredient delivers efficient performance and can be utilised in a broad range of personal care applications, making it an excellent choice for brands that prioritise nature-derived and sustainable ingredients to create high-performing and environmentally conscious products.

Silver was scooped up by India-based surfactants and specialty care ingredients leader, Galaxy Surfactants Ltd., for its natural derma cleanser, Galseer® DermaGreen.

Leading product design, development, and manufacturing partner, Lubrizol Life Science, took home the Bronze award for Carbopol® Fusion S-20 polymer, its natural, inherently biodegradable, rheology modifier for cleansing systems.

GREEN INGREDIENT AWARD

Celebrating ingredients that make a significant environmental or social difference was the Green Ingredient Award, in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence. The 2024 Gold accolade was awarded to Boreal Bioproducts’ SpruceSugar ingredient, a biodegradable, grease barrier film-former, anionic surfactant, and low viscosity modifier.

Ashland secured Silver for its Perfectyl biofunctional, a high-tech chamomile extract, inspired by new aesthetic techniques, to clarify & smoothen skin flaws for all ethnicities. Meanwhile, LignoGuard(R) Aqua 20 by Lignovations, an eco-friendly multifunctional from upcycled lignin, took home the Bronze award.

KENVUE TRUSTED SCIENCE AWARD

The Kenvue Trusted Science Award celebrates innovative and effective modern ingredients which consumers can count on for everyday care. This evening, BASF took home the Gold award for its Hydrasensyl® Glucan Green at the 2024 inaugural accolade. This award-winning ingredient is a bio-ferment with clinical results that demonstrate significant skin smoothing and hydrating benefits immediately and over time.

Evonik Industries’ TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB scooped the Silver award for its 100% bio-based & biodegradable film former, and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Immunight won Bronze for its green-processed oil-soluble lavandin extract that helps boosts nighttime skin recovery.

SUSTAINABLE STAND AWARD

The all-new Sustainable Stand Award, which acknowledges exhibitors who have actively implemented eco-conscious measures when designing and building their stands, was judged by an illustrious panel of experts in sustainability.

Dr. Barbara Olioso, MRSC, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy; Piers Kelly, The Group Operations Director of RX; and Winfried Mühling, Marketing and Communications Director of Pro Carton, the European Association of Carton and Cartonboard manufacturers, considered exhibitor stands’ environmental credentials, production, operations, and impact.

Gold was awarded to Ravetllat Aromatics S.L., which took into account its sustainability credentials and measurements, from minimising waste and recycling to materials re-use, legacy, CO2 emissions, and more.

RISING STAR AWARD

The Rising Star Award applauds new talent, recognising first- and second-year exhibitors at the show. The high calibre of entries saw joint-winners Kaffe Bueno and SKINOSIVE be awarded for their impressive presence at the show.

Kaffe Bueno is a Danish startup that specialises in creating upcycling coffee by-products, while SKINOSIVE is a science-driven dermo-cosmetics biotechnology company developing a technology platform in skin photoprotection.

MAKE-UP BAR AWARD AND SENSORY BAR AWARD

The winners of the in-cosmetics Global Make-Up Bar Award and Sensory Bar Award were decided live at the show this evening by judges from L’Oreal, Skinome, Ausmetix Pty Ltd., Sol de Janeiro, Martha Tilaar Group, and Light Years.

In the Make-Up Bar Award category, Nikko Chemicals, global supplier of ingredients for cosmetics, won the Bronze award for 冷製美 (REI-SEI-BI)- Cold Process Beauty. Silver was bagged by Imerys Talc Europe for its Matte lipstick ceremony, a lipstick enriched with ImerCareⓇ 400D (INCI: Diatomaceous earth) which gives lips a mattifying look while keeping a creamy effect.

The celebrated Gold award was given to international manufacturer of pearlescent and metallic effect pigments, ECKART GmbH, for its Trend Colors Autumn & Winter 2025/26. ECKART´s expertise in trend-forecasting, especially regarding colours and effects in make-up, is the key behind the 3 trend concepts for Autumn & Winter 2025/26.

In the Sensory Bar Award category, cosmetic products manufacturer, TECHNATURE, was awarded Bronze for its latest innovation, SkinSitu Caps; a little tablet that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it encounters water. Global chemical and ingredients distributor, Univar Solutions, won Silver for its aqueous cloud gel, Lavish Lavender Oil-free Massage Gel. The Gold accolade was scooped up on stage by ingredient distributor and manufacturer, Microcaps AG, for its ethanol-free and natural perfume pearls. Microcaps AG’s patented technology enables ethanol-free perfume products that have never been seen before and allows a fragrance concentration of more than 20% in the final product.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director of in-cosmetics Global, said: “This year’s in-cosmetics Global awards have been phenomenal. These prestigious accolades allow us to witness the innovators behind the products firsthand, and with our industry thriving, we’re proud to acknowledge the remarkable achievements in each category. It’s gratifying to see how much people value the awards, and each one is so well deserved. Thank you to our sponsor, Kenvue, for its support, and to everyone who attended the ceremony this year to celebrate. And most importantly, congratulations to all of our 2024 winners on behalf of everyone here at in-cosmetics Global.”

in-cosmetics Global, presented by headline sponsor, KSM, returns to the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles tomorrow for day two. For more information, visit here.

Please see below for the full list of 2024 in-cosmetics Global award winners.

INNOVATION ZONE BEST INGREDIENT AWARD (ACTIVE)

GOLD – ETERWELL YOUTH by dsm-firmenich (Stand 1D20, 1V41)
SILVER – RejuveNAD by Mibelle Biochemistry (Stand 1J50)
BRONZE – REGETASTE by CODIF TN (Stand 1P108)

INNOVATION ZONE BEST INGREDIENT AWARD (FUNCTIONAL)

GOLD – ECOHANCE® Remo XP by Evonik (Stand 1K30)
SILVER – Galseer® DermaGreen by Galaxy Surfactants Ltd (Stand 1P110)
BRONZE – Carbopol® Fusion S-20 polymer by Lubrizol Life Science (Stand 1J30)

GREEN INGREDIENT AWARD

GOLD – SpruceSugar by Boreal Bioproducts (Stand 1S145)
SILVER – perfectyl biofunctional by Ashland (Stand 2C60)
BRONZE – LignoGuard Aqua 20 by Lignovations (Stand 1A45)

KENVUE TRUSTED SCIENCE AWARD

GOLD – Hydrasensyl Glucan Green by BASF (Stand 1J60)
SILVER – TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB by Evonik Industries (Stand 1K30)
BRONZE – Immunight by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (Stand 1M30)

RISING STAR AWARD

Kaffe Bueno and SKINOSIVE (Stand 1R23)

MAKE-UP BAR AWARD

GOLD – Trend Colors Autumn & Winter 2025/26 by ECKART GmbH (Stand 1D60)
SILVER – Matte lipstick ceremony by Imerys Talc Europe (Stand 1N110)
BRONZE – 冷製美 (REI-SEI-BI)- Cold Process Beauty by Nikko Chemicals

SENSORY BAR AWARD

GOLD – Ethanol-free and natural perfume pearls by Microcaps AG (Stand 1V45)
SILVER – Lavish Lavender Oil-free Massage Gel by Univar Solutions (Stand 1H60)
BRONZE – SkinSitu Caps by TECHNATURE (Stand 1S118)

SUSTAINABLE STAND AWARD

Ravetllat Aromatics (Stand 1V34)

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Headline Sponsor

About RX

RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

About RELX

RELX is a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. RELX serves customers in more than 180 countries and has offices in about 40 countries. It employs more than 36,000 people over 40% of whom are in North America. The shares of RELX PLC, the parent company, are traded on the London, Amsterdam and New York stock exchanges using the following ticker symbols: London: REL; Amsterdam: REN; New York: RELX. *Note: Current market capitalisation can be found at http://www.relx.com/investors

Buoyed by rising disposable incomes and discretionary spending approaching the levels similar to those enjoyed by their Western counterparts, Eastern European beauty and personal care industry managed steady gains over the last few years. The pandemic, the geopolitical shocks and the consequent inflation surge – none of them managed to derail continuous expansion of sales. This has not, however, meant a slow and steady development of the industry. Even the exorbitant price increases did not stop consumers from moving towards more sophisticated products. Be it high-tech formulations, premium ingredients, sustainability claims on packaging or anything else, increasingly well-educated shoppers continue spending lavishly on pricier items. Interestingly, this has not turned the industry into the realm of foreign multinationals despite their seemingly limitless R&D and marketing budgets. Being close to the client and by localising their brands as much as possible, local manufacturers continue maintaining and even increasing their market positions. Driving the market, skin care in particular has performed exceptionally well, registering an annual average growth rate of 7% (measured in current Eur terms) over the period 2018 to 2023. At the same time, basic categories remain stagnant, facing not just market maturation issues but also ever-expanding private label offerings.

Just as consumers gravitate towards more sophisticated products that deliver fat profit margins, brand owners have never been busier. Historically, the industry has relied on new product launches to keep consumers interested. Encouraged by previous success as well as emerging online distribution opportunities, companies ramped up their new product development activities as of late, making the best-performing categories also the most crowded. For example, moisturisers and treatments – the holly grail of the industry of late – has seen 148 new brands and sub-brands launched online since March 2021 in Czech Republic alone, according to Euromonitor International Passport Innovation system. This makes it by far the most innovative category, followed by body care with 95 launches. The deluge of new launches will put what seems thus far unsatiable appetite for novelties by Eastern Europe beauty shoppers to the test with some products inevitably set to fail.

Another important shift has happened in the distribution of beauty and personal care goods. Having already grown dynamically, e-commerce was turbocharged by pandemic-induced lockdowns. Interestingly, for a channel that is supposed to lead to a borderless world, internet retailing in Eastern Europe displays strong national and regional characteristics, defying the looming threat of platforms like Amazon or emerging Chinese sellers. Czech Republic’s Notino is the biggest success story with Polish Allegro marketplace also appreciated by consumers for the easiness of use, speedy deliveries and a product mix tailored to local preferences.

The emergence of e-commerce as a viable sales channel could not come at a better time for some local producers. Privately brand owners confide that dominant positions by market leaders within specific offline channels leave them at the mercy of retailers during negotiations, especially in Poland and Slovakia. This affects everything from profit margins to introduction of new products with retailers effectively acting as gatekeepers deciding if a certain new launch is given a chance or not. Going forward, more viable distribution options online is set to reduce brand owner’s dependence on good graces of self-owners, benefiting consumers.

By the end of 2028 the market will look quite dissimilar to the one observed today. Despite facing economic headwinds and continuation of inflationary pressures, industry is expected to continue on the path of sophistication and, by extension, growth. Geographically, the biggest growth markets will be Poland and Romania, adding EUR885 million and EUR492 million respectively which all but guarantees them to be in the crosshairs of companies planning expansion. Other markets of the region will also inch up, with average annual constant growth rates between 1% to 6%, driven by insatiable consumer appetite for novelties and experimentation.

ABOUT EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

Euromonitor International is the world’s leading provider of global business intelligence, market analysis and consumer insights. From local to global and tactical to strategic, our research solutions support decisions on how, where and when to grow your business. With offices around the world, analysts in over 100 countries, the latest data science techniques and market research on every key trend and driver, we help you make sense of global markets.

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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Sponsored – by Active Concepts

Tap into an innovative approach to neurocosmetics and upcycling. Say goodbye to outdated notions and make way for a new era where wrinkles are no longer ‘imperfections’ but rather stories of our journey!

The ability of the senses to help shoppers create long-lasting emotional and memory-based experiences is what gives them such significance in the cosmetic industry. Consumer interest in the relationship between cosmetics and biological responses, as well as how scientifically they might enhance feelings, mood, senses, and skin health, is at an all-time high.

The notion behind neurocosmetics is that some topical ingredients have the power to influence the skin, stimulate the neurological system, and have a positive impact on our wellness by evoking certain feelings and experiences. The recent discovery that bitter receptors exist not only on the tongue but also throughout the entire epidermis may mark a new age for the study of neurocosmetics and present new potential for the creation of cutting-edge cosmetics.

Active Concepts has developed AC AmaraSense: a bitter blend comprised of licorice root, willow bark, and artichoke extract, substances recognized for their bitter taste and positive effects both on body and skin health. Licorice root is characterized by glycyrrhetinic acid, it is recognized for antioxidative, lenitive, and antimicrobial activities, white willow bark extract is characterized by tannic acid, it is known for wound healing and antimicrobial properties – artichoke is recognized for its purifying properties, and is rich in antioxidants that help to prevent oxidant stress and promote skin health.

AC AmaraSense represents a new ingredient launch that serves as the basis for creating cutting-edge cosmetics that activate sensory receptors on the skin and provide customers with new perspectives on how to take care of their skin and attain a glowing complexion. A distinctive and alluring narrative for a simple-to-use water-soluble product that can satisfy the growing demands of the modern consumer: a scientifically supported, efficient, and innovative beauty regimen.

Moreover, a new way of thinking about anti-aging has emerged as a result of the movement toward self-care and well-being that was heavily promoted during the COVID-19 epidemic. Consumers are more realistic about the anticipated outcomes now that anti-aging marketing that promised to erase wrinkles and other aging symptoms has  instantly ended. The skin is seen by the younger generation as an extension of the body. Self-acceptance is a prevailing trend nowadays. In this context, the idea of “positive aging” is gaining popularity.

Diet has a huge impact on our looks, health, and happiness. A diet rich in fresh produce, whole grains, lean protein, and low in sugar is highly advised and the Mediterranean diet, one of the healthiest diets that is great for your body and health, places a big emphasis on olive oil. The cultivation of olive trees, the production of olive oil, and the use of olive oil have all been known and practiced in the Mediterranean region for over 7000 years.

When olive oil is extracted, only a small portion of the total number of polyphenols in the olives are transferred to the oil, while a sizable portion is kept as olive vegetation fluids (OVW).  OVW used to be dispersed throughout farms, but because of their heavy organic pollution, they had a detrimental effect on the ecosystem. In light of sustainability, it is now more important than ever to revitalize olive waste.

Active Concepts is tackling this environmental concern head-on and turning a problem into a sustainable solution with AC OleaShield. The biofermentation of recycled olive vegetation water used to develop AC OleaShield gives it powerful antioxidant qualities by way of the autophagy detoxifying process. With this new active ingredient, Active Concepts is able to utilize renewable resources ethically and efficiently while providing advantages for the skin, including preserving skin homeostasis to combat age-related reduction in skin cell function.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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The world’s leading personal ingredients show returns to Barcelona, Spain for the first time in eight years

16 January 2022: Sustainability is now top of mind for personal care and cosmetic ingredient suppliers, manufacturers and brands. Helping the industry to take the next step towards circularity, in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, will return to Barcelona, Spain this March with sustainability at the forefront of discussions.

Taking place at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via from 28-30 March 2023 – the first time back in the Catalonia capital since 2015 – more than 700 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are anticipated to showcase the latest ingredient suppliers. Among them, 80% of the top 20 global cosmetics ingredient suppliers will be in attendance. This includes BASF, Croda, Ashland, Solvay, Clariant, Momentive, Evonik, Lubrizol, Nouryon, Arxada (formerly Lonza Specialty Ingredients), Stepan Europe, Wacker, Shin-Etsu, Roquette, DSM and Symrise. Meanwhile, almost 60 new exhibitors will exhibit for the first time, including AntalGenics, Cellugy ApS, Escruder, Gravel AI, Innomost and Sequential Bio.

Zoning in on Sustainability

New for 2023, in-cosmetics Global will help attendees understand what it means to be truly sustainable. Since 2017, the Sustainability Corner feature at the event has grown in popularity, with an increasing number of attendees looking for suitable solutions. The new, dedicated Sustainability Zone will welcome exhibitors who can support suppliers and manufacturers in becoming more sustainable. Sponsored by FarmForce and in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence, the zone will cover every step of the supply chain from product planning, formulation and ingredient sourcing to packaging, manufacturing and transportation.

Elsewhere on the show floor, dedicated zones will focus on specialist topics – bringing together suppliers to help attendees discover the companies and solutions available to meet their unique challenges.  From the latest ingredient launches in the show’s popular Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland, to tailored product showcases in the Fragrance Zone, Lab Zone and Testing and Regulation Zone. Furthermore, the Sensory Bar and Make-Up Bar will return to offer inspiration for the next generation of new product launches, helping attendees discover exciting new formulations.

Brands and ingredients will also be on show by location. The event’s dedicated country pavilions will capture the trends and innovations showcased by suppliers, spanning France, UK, Brazil, Spain, China, Tunisia, South Africa and new to the show this year, Indonesia.

Also returning to the show to connect attendees with the latest products and brands – both established and new – will be the event’s dedicated R&D Tours. Following their  resounding success at in-cosmetics Global in Paris 2022, the tours will be open exclusively to R&D  professionals from cosmetic/contract manufacturers. The themes for this year’s tours include Microbiome – Advancements in skincare and anti-ageing (sponsored by Symrise), ‎Skinification (sponsored by Codif)‎ and Biotech (sponsored by Mibelle Biotechnology)‎. Also available in a digital and printed format for on-site visitors, this year’s Indie Trail will help attendees navigate the event with greater efficiency, creating new business opportunities.

Learning from industry experts

While the show floor will offer boundless opportunities to source the latest ingredients, the education programme at this year’s in-cosmetics Global will bring together leading industry experts to explore the more pertinent trends impacting cosmetics and personal care brands. Market intelligence will be explored in the Marketing Trends Theatre, where experts will be on hand to deliver the latest industry research and market analysis.

The Sustainability Corner Theatre, sponsored by AAK, will showcase the very latest developments and achievements in sustainable beauty, while Technical Seminars will offer inspiration for new product formulations and alternative solutions for existing projects. Finally, the popular Formulation Lab will return, sponsored by Brenntag, with a carefully curated programme to provide  exclusive opportunities for formulators and R&D specialists to get hands-on with the latest formulation techniques.

Speaking about the 2023 event, Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “More than ever, we’re seeing sustainability dominate conversations, with suppliers, manufacturers and brands all dedicating time and budget to understand how they can minimise their impact on the planet. As the conversation continues to expand, we’re delighted to announce the launch of our new Sustainability Zone at this year’s event. It will further expand the opportunities for attendees to discover solutions to every challenge facing their business. We’re counting down the days to return to Barcelona – our first Spanish event since 2015 – and the chance to inspire the industry to take the next step in the critical journey to circularity.”

in-cosmetics Global returns from 28-30 March 2023 at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via Conference Centre. For more information and to register to attend, visit the website.

For more information on exhibitor’s, visit the Exhibitor Directory.

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Silvia Pastor, Business Development Manager at Lipoture, discusses her upcoming seminar ‘Decoding wrinkles: A journey following the Northern Lights,’ which will take place at in-cosmetics Global 2018 in Amsterdam.

Why is Greenland and this part of the Earth in general such a good place to look for potential new chemistries?

Greenland is one of the most vast and unexplored islands in the world, and therefore in its surrounding waters there is an endless number of potential new chemistries.

Greenland is located within the Auroral Zone, making it one of the most exceptional natural wonders, where you can feel the northern breeze on your skin.

From an Arctic expedition, in collaboration with a research institute, a microorganism was found in these international waters at 2,700m depth. From this marine source a novel active ingredient has been developed with outstanding cosmetics efficacies.

Is 2,700m the deepest you have found microorganisms of interest?

Actually last year we launched during in-cosmetics Global in London Sirtalice, an active ingredient from a microorganism found near the Reunion island at 3,400m and 1.5ºC. Sirtalice offers a recharging revolutionary V-lifting effect in 30 minutes with long lasting efficacies.

Moreover, LipoTrue in collaboration with research institutes has more than 20,000 different microorganisms at our disposal to study its potential cosmetic activities. Some of these microorganism were collected from unexplored or novel marine sources such as halophyte plants, extreme marine enviroments, and there are yet more sources to be unveiled.

How are these microoganisms harvested/cultivated?

Microorganims were originally collected and then fermented through a fermentation process in a reactor at optimal conditions where parameters as agitation, temperature, oxygen level and pH are monitored. Afterwards, the ferment is purified and the active ingredient is obtained.

Can you tell us a little about the mechanism of activity on the skin?

This active ingredient has shown to highly increase extracellular matrix components, such as collagens, elastin and hyaluronan.

Moreover, it has shown to protect ECM components from Blue light, protecting skin from digital ageing pollution. This unique active ingredient from an unexplored source has proved to have an excellent smoothing and firming effect, restoring skin’s natural glow while protecting skin from digital pollution.

Silvia Pastor, Business Development Manager at Lipotrue, will be speaking on ‘Decoding wrinkles: A journey following the northern lights’ at Technical Seminars Theatre 1 on Tuesday, 17^th April at 16.10 at in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam.

Iliyana Mesheva, Associate Analyst at GlobalDataMaria, discusses her upcoming presentation ‘Trends and opportunities across the global haircare landscape,’ which will take place at in-cosmetics Global 2018: Amsterdam.

Can you give an overview of some of the most exciting new haircare consumer behaviours/haircare trends? Why are they coming to the fore now? What’s bringing them into the spotlight?

Taking influences from the skincare space, the trend of multi-step beauty regimes, looks set to enter the haircare category. Motivated by consumers’ increased attentiveness towards hair and scalp health, haircare brands are beginning to take the same targeted approach used by their skincare counterparts. This encourages consumers to adapt their haircare regimes according to their individual needs and appearance-related goals. Therefore, as consumers look to using more sophisticated products, we are seeing new innovations such as pre-shampoos, scalp masks and exfoliators, being developed. In fact, based on GlobalData’s 2016 primary consumer research, this elaborate multi-step regime concept appeals to 42% of consumers globally.

Another key trend that is driving innovation within the haircare sector is that of customisation, both active and passive. Active customisation refers to the ‘create-your-own’ approach gaining traction within the haircare space. This appeals to the 61% of global consumers who find the concept of products they have helped to create appealing. Additionally, brands are engaging consumers passively by offering DNA customised products created in line with consumers’ individual hair profiles. This approach to passive haircare product customisation is further facilitated by high-tech advances, which enables consumers to monitor their hair and scalp health in real time using apps and devices.

Can you give examples of any exciting brands, ingredients and innovations in the haircare space at the moment?

Schwarzkopf’s ‘Beology Pre-shampoo haircare mousse’, which recently launched in China, taps into the multi-step regime trend by adding an additional step to haircare routines. It is meant to deeply exfoliate the scalp, while simultaneously hydrating the hair prior to shampooing. Pre-shampoo products remain quite niche, but this product launch is indicative of consumer demand for specialist products over multi-functional all-in-one products.

Oleum Vera’s ‘Do-It-Yourself Organic Haircare Kit’ from the U.S, captures consumers desire to follow customised haircare regimes by providing them with a “do-it-yourself” kit. The easy-to-use kit which contains a selection of fresh and natural ingredients, appeals to consumers who want to design their own haircare products, such as hair masks or serum oil treatments, by following guided recipes.

Kérastase Hair Coach Powered by Withings Brush, which debuted at the 2017 Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas USA, allows consumers to closely monitor their hair regime and receive real-time guidance on product recommendations suited to their specific needs. Claimed to be the world’s first-ever smart hairbrush that has an incorporated microphone to listen to the sound of hair brushing, it is able to identify brushing patterns and detect hair issues such as dryness, fizziness, split ends and breakages. Once the data is collected, it is sent via Wifi or Bluetooth to a mobile app on the users phone, that then delivers a personalised profile and offers recommendations of Kérastase products and routines to follow.                                                                                              

Who will be the key consumer groups for haircare players to target in the next ten years?

As haircare brands look ahead to the next ten years, several consumer groups are emerging as promising potential targets for different aspects of product innovation.

Gen Y consumers (Millennials) are showing a strong willingness to experiment with new brands, products, and haircare concepts. Based on GlobalData’s 2016 primary consumer research, when it comes to trying new varieties of shampoo and conditioner products, almost half (47%) of consumers of this generation say they often try new shampoo varieties. Therefore, haircare brands can capitalise on this by introducing novelty products that help address individual consumers’ appearance-related goals.

The Gen Z consumer demographic is also one that opens opportunities for haircare brands to explore. This “i-gen” cohort, with birth years starting from early 2000s, is said to be highly connected and socially active, demanding unique products tailored to their individual needs and personalities. This offers opportunities for haircare brands to create hyper-customisable products that are available for purchase through social media channels, such as Instagram, and that are unique enough to be photographed and shared online.

Equally open to embracing their individual needs and preferences, are consumers aged over 55 who are placing increasingly focused on the hair health and maintenance. This group should not be overlooked, brands should target them with products that meet their specific concerns related to hair and scalp health. ‘White Hot Hair’ is an example of a haircare brand that has positioned itself to address the changing needs of this consumer – with products by them designed to embrace the hair aging process through strengthening and brightening white and grey hair.

Any top tips for haircare brands looking to make an impact in the coming period?

Brands can capture consumers’ desire to achieve their individual haircare goals by engaging them in the process. To do this in an enjoyable, unique, and effective way, brands can take active or passive customisation approaches. Active customization allows consumers to create products tailored to their needs using “do-it-yourself” kits, whereas passive customization enables brands to cater for consumers’ unique needs through interacting with them on social media platforms.

Looking beyond skin care influences, haircare brands can also take inspiration from the food and drinks sector, by using ingredient formulation that would help consumers achieve their desired hair goals. We are starting to see more haircare brands blurring the lines between food and beauty by introducing product ranges that use ingredients known to have hair benefits, such as superfoods.

Iliyana Mesheya, Associate Analyst at GlobalDate will be speaking on ‘Trends and opportunities across the global haircare landscape’ at the Marketing Trends Theatre on Tuesday, 17^th April  at 12.15 at in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam

Maria Coronado, Senior Ingredients Analyst at Euromonitor International, discusses her upcoming presentation ‘New Claims in Skincare: anti-pollution and probiotic ingredients’, which will take place at in-cosmetics Global 2018: Amsterdam.

Why are the anti-pollution and probiotic trends coming to the fore now? What’s bringing them into the spotlight?

These two trends are not completely disconnected, the need for skin protection that goes beyond traditional sunscreens is becoming essential in a world with increasing environmental problems.  The negative impact of modern life, the exposure to a growing number of environmental stressors and the rise in allergic reactions to chemicals has put health and wellness at the top of consumer’s priorities, especially young adults who are more environmentally sensitive than past generations. These consumers are seeking for new ways of protecting their skin against these invisible threats and this is where anti-pollution and probiotic ingredients come into play.

In the same way that consumers need and demand pollution protection, they are now starting to understand that microbes play an important role in protecting our body. The industry is making efforts to develop new solutions adapted to the skin microbiome.

Can you give an overview of some of the most exciting new anti-pollution & probiotic consumer behaviours/anti-pollution & probiotic trends?

By the end of 2017 most major cosmetics companies and ingredients manufacturers had already jumped on the anti-pollution bandwagon offering a wide portfolio of solutions that protect against pollutants. In 2018, more adventurous consumers are expected to show an appetite for exciting and experimental products and ingredients with specific health and protection benefits that go beyond the traditional. This marked shift in consumer attitudes is likely to have a positive impact on the market demand for products carrying all type of protection claims. “Mimic or boosting the natural skin protection” or “microbiome friendly” are just a few examples of claims that are starting to appear and co-exist with more specific protection claims such as anti-pollution and blue light protection.

Can you give examples of any exciting brands, ingredients and innovations in the anti-pollution & probiotic spaces at the moment?

While new launches of products with anti-pollution ingredients are expected across more beauty categories, perhaps the most interesting opportunities in the anti-pollution field will rely on cutting-edge technological innovations that enable consumers to fully control at real-time the levels of protection. Another dynamic area under the anti-pollution umbrella is the standardization of clinical trials to assess the effectiveness of the ingredients. Several companies are currently performing research to develop protocols to test anti-pollution efficacy.

In the probiotic arena, it is not a secret that a handful of start-ups, Mother Dirt in the US, Esse Skincare in South Africa and Yun Probiotherapy in Europe, have shaken up the skincare industry by formulating the first beauty products with living bacteria. However, while probiotic-based beauty is an emerging and very promising area, developing products containing these ingredients is costly due to technical challenges in formulation and packaging. This obviously limits the probiotic’s opportunity to the premium market with very niche offering in terms of product proposition and distribution.

Over the last year, the trend has naturally evolved from these first products with living probiotics to less challenging solutions that respect the skin microbiome and even help to boost and strengthen the skin natural defence. Microbiome-derived and microbiome friendly products with natural and milder ingredients are entering the market opening up further opportunities. For instance, Mother Dirt, the company that developed AO Mist, a product containing alive ammonium oxidizing bacteria, is now offering a biome-friendly moisturizer with ingredients that mimic the skin barrier.

Ingredients manufacturers are also engrossing its portfolio with new launches. For instance, CODIF has recently launched Actibiome, a combination of microbiome friendly ingredients that claim to reverses the skin microbiota imbalance.

How are any emerging trends in anti-pollution & probiotic personal care likely to impact on the wider market? (In terms of impact onto other segments, ingredients development, regulation & safety, regional or global focus, or any other relevant factor?)

The protection trend will continue its growth and spread its tentacles even more widely. However, one of the potential risks in the probiotics and anti-pollution markets is the lack of regulation and standardization in terms of packaging claims and terminology. This obviously leaves plenty of room for initiative and freedom but also increases the risk of eventually losing consumer trust.

Who will be the key consumer groups for anti-pollution & probiotic players to target in the next ten years?

Anti-pollution and probiotic ingredients are especially attractive to young urban professionals that are willing to make lifestyle changes to look healthier and younger for longer. These consumers tend to be more educated and critical and thus more open to trying science-based solutions.

Any top tips for anti-pollution & probiotic brands looking to make an impact in the coming period?

Probiotics can be seen as an opportunity to expand the environmental protection trend initiated by anti-pollution and light protection claims or as the brand new natural approach to the traditional anti-ageing.  In one way or another, to embrace the enormous opportunities that lie ahead companies need to invest in further studies to fully understand the skin barrier and its impacts on health and ageing to develop more customized solutions. This could be a reality sooner than later if the cost of genetic sequencing falls and the skin microbiome can be fully characterized. The commercialization of affordable technology that allows the identification and motorization of the human skin microbiome will open up new market opportunities for these ingredients in cosmetics. For instance, the use of big data and wearable sensors to monitor and analyse microbial footprint, in the same way that today consumer can do with UV protection, will allow the development of novel solutions to maintain healthy skin.

Maria Coronado, Senior Ingredients Analyst at Euromonitor International will be speaking on ‘‘New Claims in Skincare: anti-pollution and probiotic ingredients’ at the Marketing Trends Theatre on Wednesday, 18^th April at 12.15 at in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam.

Trends in the Global Market

The global sunscreen ingredients market is projected to reach 40,000 Tonnes by 2020 with an overall increase in demand of 10,000 Tonnes by 2020.  Seventy percent of the global demand is currently concentrated within ten countries and the USA was leading the market with a demand of 9,600 Tonnes in 2015 followed by Brazil – 3,200 Tonnes – and China – 2,500 Tonnes -. Although North America will remain the largest market in the forecast period (2015-2020), it is expected to lose 6% of its market share as emerging markets, especially in Asia-Pacific, are gaining momentum.

Sun protection products and products claims depend on the specific market due to the diverse regulatory landscape and different consumer needs and preferences across the globe. Fewer products in the US have UVA coverage due to its more restrictive regulation, while in Asia Pacific half of the UV filters used in sunscreens are broad spectrum (UVB + UVA). Despite demand for mineral filters is expected to grow in the forecast period driven by consumer demand for more natural ingredients and recent technical developments, still ninety percent of the UV filters used in North America, Western Europe and Latin America are organic filters while thirty-five percent of the UV filters used in Asian products are inorganic, mainly zinc oxide.

Consumers Want More

Although consumer’s preferences vary across the world, there are some common trends. Consumers demand more protection against all environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution, infrared and blue light. This translates into higher SPF, which usually implies a higher number of UV filters and the use of botanicals, vitamins and film forming polymers able to protect the skin. Consumers also expect non-sticky or whitening lighter textures that offer longer lasting protection during sport and water activities even in warm and humid climates. As a result, greater innovation in synthetic polymers and higher demand for lighter emollients is expected to continue during the next five years. Mildness, convenience and added benefits are also among the top consumer’s preferences which is driving demand for skin conditioning and benefiting agents, milder surfactants, alcohol and waxes.

Opportunities for Ingredients in Western Europe

Consumers are demanding products with higher protection and UV filters are the basic ingredients able to provide this protection. Among all UV filters, homosalate is expected to be the fastest growing in Western Europe between 2015 and 2020, followed by zinc oxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Although homosalate itself is not able to provide high SPF, it is an affordable and globally accepted UV filter that can be used in high proportions (up to 10% in Europe and 15% in the United States) and it is usually combined with other filters due to its high compatibility to reach high protection in mass market products. It is a liquid filter able to dissolve and stabilise solid filters such as avobenzone, one of the most used UVA filters. Demand for mineral filters, although smaller than demand for organic filters, is also expected to grow especially in the case of zinc oxide due to its recent approval as UV filter in Europe.

Besides sunscreens, especially emollient esters but also alcohol are two ingredients that present big opportunities for growth by 2020. Light emollient esters with similar silky skin feeling to silicones but with the added benefit that they do not clog the pores and also solubilize some of the solid UV filters, are gaining popularity among formulators. Vitamins present relatively small opportunities for growth in terms of volume – around 300 Tonnes – in the forecast period (2015-2020). Mainly panthenol and vitamin E are the vitamins that are projected to be most favoured. Last but not least, there are further opportunities for growth for other ingredients such as waxes, ascorbic acid, peptides, plant extracts and niacinamide.

Innovation: Now More than Ever

The need for innovative ingredients and formulations is vital to meet consumers demand. In response, companies are actively looking for solutions to overcome these challenges.  Companies are broadening their focus to fight not only the effects of UV radiation but also air and light pollution. Lancaster has just launched its Full Light Technology which protects against UVB, UVA and infrared rays and has just re-launched its sports sunscreen’s range with intelligent polymers that release menthol when exposed to water, sweat or heat. Happy Skin has just launched its Catch the Sun Brightening UV Gel Cream in the Philippines, a water-based gel cream with moringa seed oil that protects against UV rays pollution.

Besides formulations that offer further protection, some interesting products are the Dr Russo Cleansing Milk SPF 30 with three encapsulated UV filters, the UVO edible sunscreen with vitamins and antioxidants, the UNSUN Natural Tinted Sun Protection line for multicultural consumers, or even the recent launch of the brand Suncros, a pharma-derived sunscreen line, which is now directly selling to consumers in India.

Ingredients manufacturers are also responding by developing solutions. For instance, Covestro has launched a high waterproof, ethanol-based polyurethane film former – Baycusan® C 2000 – for transparent sun protection and innovative textures with an SPF-boosting effect, which dries quickly and can be applied to wet skin.

Not only formulation is important but education and proper application are fundamental. Aware of this, cosmetics companies are launching wearable UV trackers such as the L’Oréal’s UV Patch or the Norwegian SunSense technology.

The sunscreen market has evolved tremendously during the last decade but there is still plenty of room for innovation to discover and develop healthier, safer and more effective ingredients and formulations that effectively protect the skin, with added skin benefits and more attractive textures that are easy to apply.

Read an extract of Maria’s presentation at in-cosmetics Global on Slideshare http://bit.ly/2qCulXV.
Receive Euromonitor International’s Ingredients insights in your inbox http://blog.euromonitor.com/.

Workshop hosted by Steven Hanft, President of CONSUBAT

With just a week to go until in-cosmetics Global opens its doors, this blog gains insight into the regulatory workshop, hosted by CONUSBAT: the ever-changing regulatory landscape. The session will take place 5^th April 2017, 08:55 – 12:30pm.

Ahead of this workshop, in-cosmetics heard from two of the industry experts speaking:

Q&A with Gerd Mildau, Cosmetics expert at Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Office (CVUA)

 Has consumer awareness of harmful components in cosmetics increased over the last year?

Yes, but the reason is not an increasing amount of harmful products but the influence of bad news in social media, e.g. “Alzheimer disease correlates with antiperspirants with aluminium” or “parabens in sunscreens are carcinogenic”. Apart from these alarming and incorrect headlines, which make consumers insecure, there are also more justified questions, such as “Are Temporary tattoos with PPD harmful?” or “What about hair straightening products with Formaldehyde?”

 How can manufacturers safe house themselves from using harmful substances?

They need a profound knowledge of all raw materials they are using in their formulas (purity of the substances, chemico-physical and microbiological specifications, all data of the relevant toxicological endpoints). The safety assessor can only confirm the safety of the products with reference to those complete documentations.

 What are the steps manufacturers must go through to avoid serious undesirable effects?

•  Sufficient and valid in tests before launching a product
• Consideration of special application hints in terms of reasonably foreseeable conditions of use
• Complaints statistics of the marketed product must be regularly analysed
• Establishing structures and processes in order to ensure that the safety assessor is aware of formulation or supplier changes

 Q&A with Katy Beckett, ABS Project Manager at Regulatory Delivery, The Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy, UK Government

 What administrative compliance support is on offer for businesses in the UK?

Regulatory Delivery (RD), part of The Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (BEIS), is responsible for the implementation and enforcement of Access and Benefit Sharing legislation in the UK. Given that The Nagoya Protocol and EU ABS Regulation only came into force in 2014, RD has focussed its attention to date on raising awareness and supporting UK businesses to understand what the regulation may mean for certain R&D activities, which involve genetic resources.

How will this change post Brexit?

It is difficult to provide unequivocal advice about what will happen after the UK leaves the EU, but it is likely we/it will remain a party to the Nagoya Protocol and UK users of genetic resources will still be required to comply with the applicable legislation.

Why should businesses be involved in this support – what are the benefits?

Regulatory Delivery’s objective is to support compliance of UK businesses while reducing regulatory burden. Where businesses have questions around compliance and what might be expected from them, we are here to provide clarity and guidance.

 What percentage of businesses are involved in the scheme?

There isn’t really a scheme as such – all companies that fall within scope of the regulation are obliged to comply with it.  We have engaged with companies through trade associations as well as on an individual basis and continue to reach out to the different sectors that may be affected by the regulation. This is much wider than just cosmetic.

For more information about COSUBAT please visit the website at http://www.conusbat.com/.