Cosmetic science is in constant evolution, driven by the incessant search for products that not only beautify but also take care of skin health.

Recent innovations in this field testify to the marriage between beauty and science, where new technologies and ingredients are defining the future of personal care.

Before addressing the new technological concepts that we believe will be the foundations for some truly innovative products to come, it is important to understand that we are now experiencing a revolution in the concept and standards of beauty. What the future offers us on this topic will strongly alter how we create cosmetic products.

Diversity, inclusion, and sustainability are largely responsible for the profound and consistent changes in the cosmetic market, and the quest for purpose and social responsibility is aided by a powerful ally: science. Here, we will outline some technological paths we can utilize to meet future challenges.

#### Peptides: The Skin’s Messengers

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as biological messengers, stimulating the skin to perform specific functions like producing collagen and elastin. These substances are essential for maintaining firm and elastic skin.

With biotechnology, it is possible to create synthetic peptides that mimic these natural processes, offering anti-aging and reparative results with proven efficacy. Cyclic peptides represent a promising innovation in the field of cosmetic formulations, offering significant benefits in terms of stability and efficacy. These molecules, characterized by their ring structure, can penetrate deeper into the skin due to their reduced size and compact form. This allows them to act directly on target cells, improving hydration, reducing roughness and coarseness, and promoting a smoother skin texture.

Additionally, cyclic peptides are highly stable in cosmetic formulations, resisting enzymatic degradation and maintaining their activity for longer periods.

#### Fermentation: Natural Power

Fermentation is an ancient technique that has gained traction in cosmetic research laboratories. Through this process, natural ingredients are transformed by microorganisms, resulting in compounds with antioxidant, moisturizing, and regenerative properties. Fermented products are more easily absorbed by the skin, enhancing their beneficial effects and being sustainable. Some traditionally synthetic fragrances can be produced by yeasts.

The fermentation process of plant raw materials in their matrix of biologically active compounds and cosmetic properties increases the bioavailability and activity of biologically active compounds. During the fermentation process, complex compound structures are converted into simpler forms, translating into greater efficiency and bioavailability due to epidermal compatibility and skin penetration. Bioferments also help improve the natural balance of the skin microbiome, which is disrupted by external factors, and this is linked to healthy skin. Biotechnology is also enabling the creation of biocosmetics that use ingredients produced through biological processes like fermentation. These ingredients are often more sustainable and can be more effective than their synthetic counterparts.

#### Customization Through Synthetic Biology

Synthetic biology seeks to create biological systems to develop functions in living organisms artificially, using knowledge of advanced engineering and computing; the field has implications in various industries, from biofuel production to personalized medicine. It is possible to manufacture isolated silk or spider web proteins for medicinal or cosmetic use. Synthetic biology can also allow for the creation of personalized cosmetic ingredients at the genetic level. Imagine products that adapt in real-time to changes in the skin, such as climate or hormonal variations.

#### Nanoparticles: Precision on a Microscopic Scale

Nanoparticles represent a significant advancement in the targeted delivery of active ingredients. With their reduced size, they penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, releasing the actives in a controlled manner and increasing the efficacy of the products.

Cubosomes are nanoparticles capable of encapsulating hydrophobic or hydrophilic molecules in their structure, containing approximately 50% hydrophilic and hydrophobic areas, allowing them to encapsulate more molecules than liposomes. Particularly, cubosomes are easy to produce due to their raw materials being lipids (monoglycerides (GMO) or phytantriol (PHY)) that self-associate in aqueous media.

Another promising nanoparticle for the future of cosmetic science is Nanotubes or Fullerenes. Fullerenes are an allotropic form of carbon, the third most stable after diamond and graphite. They have become popular among chemists for their structural beauty and versatility in synthesizing new chemical compounds and specific physical and chemical properties. Studies reveal that these structures could become excellent carriers for transporting actives directly to specific tissues or cells.

Water-in-Water Emulsions: New Sensory Experiences

The water-in-water (W/W) emulsion is a system consisting of a discontinuous phase of molecules dissolved in water in another continuous phase of aqueous solution; both the discontinuous and continuous phases contain different molecules that are fully water-soluble. Thus, when two entirely aqueous solutions containing different water-soluble molecules are mixed, droplets of water predominantly containing one component are dispersed in an aqueous solution containing another component.

Recently, it has been demonstrated that such a water-in-water emulsion is stable due to the coalescence of different types of non-amphiphilic but water-soluble molecular interactions. These molecular interactions include hydrogen bonds, salt bridges, or the so-called Pickering emulsions obtained from organic or inorganic particles that replace traditional emulsifiers. This new cosmetic form can offer different organoleptic and sensory characteristics.

Other Innovations: The Future is Now

Beyond peptides, fermentation, and nanoparticles, the cosmetic industry is exploring new horizons. Multifunctional ingredients, liquid crystals, and even the interaction between natural molecules and light at specific wavelengths for skin treatments are some of the emerging trends. These technologies promise to revolutionize how we care for our skin, making cosmetic products not just beauty tools but allies of dermatological health.

Innovation in cosmetic products reflects our times, where science is dedicated to meeting the needs of a society that values both aesthetics and well-being. With continuous advancements in technology and research, we can expect even more surprising discoveries that will transform cosmetics into true elixirs of health, longevity, and beauty.

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A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away… The Star Wars series tells the story of the Skywalker family, who are able to perceive and use “The Force”, which allows them to develop abilities such as telekinesis, clairvoyance and mind control, among others.

R2-D2 is one of the most famous robots in the world and one of the most peculiar characters in the series. We have seen it in 10 of the 11 Star Wars movies. R2-D2 stands for Second Generation Robotic Droid Series-2, according to a Star Wars encyclopaedia published after the film’s premiere. This robot’s function is technical, as it can repair any part of the ship, assist as a navigator and also provide valuable information on many probability data in the missions.

In 2024, we are seeing robots begin to take centre stage in many types of industries. I recently read an article published by the computerhoy.com portal which inspired me to write this column.

It was recently announced that humanoid robots have just signed a contract to work in BMW factories. This has been the first contract with humanoid robots in history. The article mentions that “the general purpose robot Figure 01 is 170 cm tall, has a payload capacity of about 20 kilos, weighs 60 kilos and has a range of up to 5 hours. It walks at a speed of 1.2 m/s. Its distinctive feature is that it does not work by programmed commands. It has a “ChatGPT” in its head, and thanks to artificial intelligence it is able to learn tasks, simply by watching explanatory videos”. The article also mentions that the robot can learn other activities on its own.

Robotics is also starting to set trends in cosmetics.

Last year, the magazine Cosmetics and Toiletries published an article on the subject, mentioning that AI and robots are helping to develop patents and beauty products. Some of the activities they can be programmed to do include preparing samples for hair fiber product efficacy analysis, as well as robots that wash, condition and dry hair to test formulations.

One application of AI is related to the optimisation of experimental designs for the development of make-up shades. The publication also mentions something very interesting: “robots do not replace jobs, but their function is to condense massive amounts of data to create consistency in samples and testing”.

Cobots = collaborative robots. Cobots are on the rise in medicine and cosmetics. The universal-robots.com portal indicates that: “As the life cycles of medical and cosmetic products shorten, collaborative automation brings agility to manufacturing. Robotic arms can be used to maximize production and ensure consistent quality, and can then be quickly redeployed for new product lines.

Cobots are used throughout the industry to manipulate machines and conveyor belts, assemble devices and products with precision, and package items in blisters, cartons or pallets. Cobots help you reduce the risk of human contamination in delicate processes and clean environments as they can be used for the handling and assembly of sterile products and medical devices or implants. Cobots can also free workers from material handling tasks in operations that can be risky because they generate a lot of dust, noise and high vibration, allowing them to move on to higher value tasks”.

The new R2-D2s at the service of cosmetics in 2024 are integrated with artificial intelligence to optimize beauty services. In some cities, we see, for example, robotic arms specialized in placing eyelashes and applying nail polish, achieving innovative designs in the nail-art trend. In this regard, the luxurylashacademy.com portal indicates that: “while artificial intelligence robots are advancing in the beauty industry, fears of being replaced by machines are alleviated by understanding that these technologies are designed to complement, not replace, the skills and artistry of lash artists. The beauty industry thrives on human creativity, and the personal touch that lash artists bring to their work is something that machines cannot replicate.”

In Star Wars, we saw that the Trade Federation was a transport and interstellar trade conglomerate during the last years of the Galactic Republic, so powerful that it had its own representatives in the Galactic Senate.

In 2024, we are seeing the potential contributions of the International Federation of Robotics (IFR) ifr.org/association to cosmetics. The website states that: “the International Federation of Robotics connects the world of robotics around the globe”, and its objectives include: “to promote the positive benefits of robots for productivity, competitiveness, economic growth and quality of work and life” and “to promote research, development, use and international co-operation in the entire field of robotics”, among others.

Surely, we will soon start to see partnerships between the industry, the cosmetics academy and this kind of organization to generate innovations never seen before in the pursuit of beauty.

In February 2024, we saw a surprising news story: we met a bipedal robot with muscle tissue that can walk, stop and turn. A team of Japanese researchers created a biohybrid robot, made mainly of silicone rubber and strips of skeletal muscle tissue cultured in the laboratory, that mimics human gait and works in water.

Biohybrid robots will be protagonists in the near future in cosmetics by participating as “volunteers” in cosmetic efficacy tests. Thanks to their biohybrid composition, cosmetic testing robots will have a dermal and muscular composition similar to humans, so that companies will be able to test multiple products on the same individual, carrying out efficacy studies of active ingredients for skincare and pre-selection of formulas before starting final tests in humans.

Biomimetic robots are also an interesting concept because they imitate the shape and movement of living beings. These robots could be more efficient and adaptable to complex environments. Robots will be used to perform irritation, allergy and efficacy tests of cosmetic products quickly and efficiently. This will reduce the need for animal testing and contribute to a more ethical cosmetics industry.

Skin diagnosis is another interesting chapter in this trend. This year we will see how robots with AI will be able to diagnose skin problems and recommend personalized products for their treatment.

• Application of cosmetics: Robots will be able to apply cosmetics precisely and uniformly, even in hard-to-reach areas.
• Shopping experience: Robots will be used in cosmetics stores to help customers find the right products and offer personalized advice.
• Mega-personalization: Robots will be able to analyze the customer’s skin type, tone, specific needs and preferences through sensors, scanners and AI. With this information, they will be able to create personalized cosmetic products with exact ingredients and quantities for each person. This will allow for greater product effectiveness and a better customer experience.
• Augmented reality boom: Robots will be able to show customers how they would look with different cosmetic products from various categories before purchasing them. This will help them make more informed and confident purchasing decisions.

Robots could be used to develop new cosmetic ingredients with specific properties. In the area of ​​quality, robots can be used to perform more precise and efficient quality control of cosmetic products. On the other hand, robots could be used to create more personalized and effective marketing and advertising campaigns.

This is the way… robotics have the potential to revolutionize the cosmetics industry in 2024. Princess Leia would surely be surprised to see how robots can offer customers accurate diagnoses, personalized products, new forms of application, shopping experiences more personalized and more sustainable production. Robotic cosmetics is one of the great drivers of innovation in our industry this year.

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As we approach 2024, it is interesting to review what trends will impact the cosmetics industry. The global cosmetics market was worth close to U$343 billion in 2023 and has a projected CAGR of 5.2% for the period 2024-2032.

Overall, the coming year will be marked by an unprecedented rise of smart machines, such that Artificial Intelligence (AI) will become part of everyday life and virtually no industry will be alien to it. Climate change will continue to affect society and science will continue to put enormous efforts into studying it and how to control its consequences.

On the other hand, remote and hybrid work remains at high levels compared to the pre-pandemic, which means that many people feel increasingly lonely, which is why the World Health Organization announced an initiative to address what it calls the new global epidemic: loneliness. The WHO stated that this problem did not begin with the covid-19 pandemic, but that it did worsen to the extent that one in four adults experience social isolation. The WHO has also indicated that the greatest global health risk by 2030 will be depression, not obesity. For this reason, wellness concepts will be at the forefront of cosmetics by 2024. Here are some of the trends that I believe will be the key players for the coming year.

• Chatbots & Chatbeauty: Artificial Intelligence (AI) is advancing by leaps and bounds. This is why in 2024 we will see an unprecedented boom in the development of chatbots for all types of industries, which will allow instant and personalised attention. In our industry, we will see brands launch chatbots with catchy names that will be able to handle product, ingredient and technical queries from formulators. Very soon it will be a reality to interact with chatbots that will aid the cosmetic formulation process. Virtual avatars created to assist in the purchasing and technical support process will also be on the rise in 2024.

• Biocoating: The food industry is making great strides in the development of coatings made from environmentally friendly materials to wrap and protect products. The cosmetics industry is beginning to take inspiration from materials used in food protection to develop new packaging materials. Waste from the sugar cane industry and products obtained from micro-organisms and plant species are emerging as new sources of innovation.

• Hygiene boom: The global hygiene market was worth U$515 billion in 2022 and is projected to be worth U$727 billion by 2032 at an estimated CAGR of 3.9% during this period. In 2024 we will see a boom in hygiene products aligned with wellness benefits. Aromatherapy will therefore be a key player in the development of new concepts in this category. We will also see market opportunities for luxury brands in hygiene and new proposals in the great universe of inclusion and diversity. Mood boosting will be an important claim in this category.

• Retrobiology: This is one of the most fascinating trends for 2024. Permafrost is a permanently frozen layer of soil in very cold or glaciated regions, formed by a combination of soil, rock, sand and other minerals that remain bound by ice. In the uppermost layers, it contains large amounts of organic carbon and remains of animals and plants that have not fully decomposed due to low temperatures. Due to global warming, this layer is melting, exposing well-preserved, extinct animal and plant remains from thousands of years ago, as well as new species that were unknown to science. In October 2023 we witnessed an unprecedented scientific breakthrough: a group of scientists managed to awaken an animal that had been hibernating for 45,000 years. Cryptobiosis is a process that puts the metabolism of living extremophile organisms into suspension, so that they can remain dormant for hundreds of years. Therefore, we will see the development of cosmetic technology coming from new biological species, such as micro-organisms, bacteria, algae and ferments. The concept of inspiration from extinct species is already starting to become a reality in cosmetic products. In October 2023 we saw a disruptive launch from a beauty and biotech company that introduced a new fragrance brand consisting of six perfumes, each derived from the sequenced DNA of extinct flowers. The concept is to revive scents lost in time. So, in 2024 we will see innovations and claims related to cryptobiosis-like, cryptobiosis inspired and extinct-inspired.

• Robots in retail: The Analytics Insight portal made an interesting publication on this topic in November 2023. The aim is to improve the customer experience. The rise of robots in retail has several objectives, such as creating better automated payment systems, optimizing inventory management, providing customer assistance by helping to locate products and guidance, assisting in cleaning and maintenance of shops and retail spaces, providing personalized recommendations, optimizing virtual testing, among others.

• Food inspiration: Lab-synthesized foods are a reality and are just around the corner in 2024. Advances in this field and the application of 3D printing in food will enable new applications in the cosmetics industry, for example biosynthesized and vegan animal proteins, dairy and egg whites of microbial origin synthesized from proteins produced by strains of bacteria, yeast and other recombinant or genetically modified micro-organisms, in whose genetic material the genes responsible for the production of certain animal proteins and other biomolecules present in foods, such as casein and beta-lactoglobulin (whey protein), egg white ovalbumin or muscle myoglobin, have been inserted. One company recently announced that it uses genetically programmed strains of the Trichoderma reesei fungus to produce whey proteins to make its vegan dairy products and ice cream. We will also see a boom in fancy and healthy sweets and desserts.

• Hyper-shine: After a year of many economic, social, health and peace difficulties, consumers have a deep desire for peace of mind. Therefore, claims related to radiance, luminosity, gloss, shine, brightness and glitter will be on the rise in 2024. Shiny is the new black.

• Diversity & Inclusion: The cosmetics industry has a great challenge to be more inclusive and therefore, new market segments, in some cases niches, that were previously not served by the cosmetics industry will be protagonists. Beauty is a universal right and inclusion is a vast universe where cosmetics has many opportunities for innovation.

• Wellness-driven beauty: Predictions indicate that consumers are beginning to prioritize holistic lifestyles, which is why wellness is emerging as one of the most important sources of innovation for 2024, as people are better understanding that the balance of mind-brain connections is reflected in better skin condition and appearance. Self-care is the new player in cosmetics and is emerging as a new global macro-trend.

• Synthetic biology boom: It is defined as the synthesis of biomolecules or engineering of biological systems with new functions that are not found in nature. It is a discipline that, unlike biology, is not based on the study of living beings, but instead tries to redesign biological systems that already exist in nature. Synthetic biology creates new programmable organisms, that is, it creates on-demand microorganisms with specific functions. In 2024 we will see advances in biological circuits to control and regulate cellular behavior. This involves the creation of complex systems that imitate the logic and functionality of electronic circuits in living cells, which will allow the synthesis and discovery of new molecules and systems with very high anti-aging efficacy profiles.

• Skin bioremediation: Research is currently exploring the ability of synthetic biology to develop products that aid in skin repair and regeneration, including the treatment of scars, wrinkles or even specific dermatological problems.

The trends for 2024 are very exciting and the cosmetics industry has always shown resilience, creativity and a lot of innovation, especially in difficult times. Understanding trends and consumer needs are key to innovation.

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Writing about trends is a fantastic thing. In my case, I have been writing about trends for more than 10 years for different portals and magazines, which is something that I quite enjoy, because it allows me to delve into different cultures, customs, insights, concepts, launches and geographies and also allows me be in contact with people from all over the world. Market trend analysis is the process of evaluating changes in consumption patterns in the industry. A trend is a supposed future development that potentially has a long-term effect on a selected industry or the market. Market trends depend largely on consumer preferences, needs and technological advances.

In my column this month, I want to discuss a topic that is very interesting in marketing and that is not commonly addressed in the trends and innovation portals of the cosmetic and beauty industry: the anti-trends.

According to ChatGPT, “anti-trends” or “counter trends” refer to movements or behaviors that go against the dominant or popular trends at a given time. These can manifest themselves in different areas, such as fashion, technology, beauty, culture, politics or any other area of ​​society. Anti-trends often emerge as a reaction to what is perceived as a norm or mainstream and seek to challenge or subvert those norms. Anti-trends often emerge as a form of individual expression, rebellion, or a desire to stand out from the crowd. They can be a way of challenging the status quo and promoting diversity of thought and action in society. However, it is also important to note that anti-trends can vary widely in their nature and motivations, and not all of them necessarily have a lasting or significant impact on culture or society at large. Anti-trends are an opposition to current trends. According to an article by ConSalud.es, the anti-trend is “the popularly declared trend of the previous year that collapsed and, furthermore, may have gone in a completely opposite direction”. In short, while a trend is a general direction in which something is developing, an anti-trend is an opposition to current trends. Next, let’s look at some of the most interesting anti-trends in our industry.

Extravaganza: While fresh-looking, natural-looking makeup has been a major trend (no-makeup makeup), some people choose to buck this trend and wear more eye-catching and creative makeup, such as bright eye shadows, extravagant eyeliners and striking lips.

Natural aging: Instead of turning to anti-wrinkle treatments or cosmetic procedures, some people embrace natural aging and are comfortable with the wrinkles and fine lines that come with age.

Natural, unplucked eyebrows: Contrary to the trend of perfectly defined and sculpted eyebrows, some people let their eyebrows grow naturally and without plucking them too much. Frida Kahlo would be a great promoter of this anti-trend in 2023.

Normcore: This trend is characterized by a minimalist and simple style, which is based on basic and timeless garments.

Anti-fast fashion: This trend focuses on responsible consumption and opposes the mass production of low-quality clothing.

Second-hand shopping: It is a form of responsible consumption that helps reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

Fake freckles: Instead of hiding freckles with makeup, some people use makeup to create fake freckles on their face.

Gorpcore: This trend is one that tries to bring the most technical garments, sportingly speaking, closer to everyday style. From windbreakers, hiking shoes, mountain boots… Or inspiration from them. The nssgclub.com portal has published an interesting definition of this topic: Gorpcore is freedom, essentiality and comfort in terms of beauty. For example, a natural and sober makeup that simulates the effect of just getting out of bed. A light application of blush on the cheeks and nose to imitate the sun-kissed effect, bushy and soft eyebrows, outlined with a swipe of transparent gel, a natural-looking mascara and hydrated and soft lips. Essential, a sunscreen to face life outdoors.

The world of anti-trends is fascinating and we have a lot to understand, discover and apply. When asked if an anti-trend can become a trend, that is possible. The best example is inclusive beauty, since this trend promotes the beauty of all people, regardless of their race, gender, age or size. In cosmetics we began to see genderless product launches around 2016, first in fragrances and then in skincare. We can say that the first launches were an anti-trend because these products went against what society defined, that is, segmentation by gender and, in a certain way, exclusion. We witnessed the evolution from unisex to gender-free concepts. The first products under this concept marked a before and after. Now we are facing a great trend because we have understood that diverse beauty promotes the beauty of all people, regardless of their race, gender, age or size, being today one of the great drivers of innovation in concepts, marketing, positioning and biochemical mechanisms.

The glamor.es portal published recently an interesting note about this topic in which the author indicates: “¿Aren’t anti-trends or what they are called now, nothingcore, a trend in itself?”. The author also mentions that there are two ways in which a trend stops being a trend. The first has to do with unpopularity and the second with saturation: the pitcher goes to the fountain so much that in the end, it ends up breaking. There are trends that died of success!

Adriana Castañeda, in Bogotá, tells us that like everything in the universe has its opposite, a trend will always have an anti-trend so that there is a balance. The consumer is exposed to a lot of information and today chooses according to their customs, aspirations and environment, which leads us to think that an anti-trend can easily change quickly and become a reality for the market and the consumer. We must always be prepared to offer innovative alternatives at both extremes, always bringing inclusion and differentiation as a competitive advantage in such a changing environment.

Karen Young, in New York, comments: For every trend, however strong and influential, there’s definitely a counter trend. For every beauty brand with a 17-product regimen, there’s a brand touting simple basics. For every trend (in beauty or otherwise) incorporating technology, AI and AR, there’s a Luddite counterpart. For every head of dramatically colored hair (I’m looking at blue and yellow as I type), there’s someone abandoning color and celebrating the grey. This paradox feels even stronger today with no rules and no playbook for fashion, beauty or anything else.  Self-expression is the mantra of the day. Anything goes!  It’s liberating….most of the time!

Finally, I consider that some of the anti-trends in cosmetics will definitely be a trend because they reflect a change in the way people perceive beauty, which represents invaluable input to discover insights and develop products that have positive impacts on life. of consumers. Being inspired by anti-trends is also a good strategy to innovate.

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Renowned brands, ancestral techniques, neutral colors, and universal ingredients are gaining new popularity and defining a timeless beauty anchored in modernity. Adding a contemporary touch to the classics, the desire to connect with codes steeped in heritage and history resurfaces.

With a fresh perspective on origins as a source of uniqueness, old brands are delving into their archives. After Estée Lauder chose to revert to its original logo in 2018, this year, Burberry has decided to re-adopt the Serif font and the knight emblem, in a spirit of (re)conquest.

In Brazil,  Cidade Matarazzo, located in the former Paulistana maternity hospital, aims to showcase the richness of Brazilian art, culture, and nature alongside the tradition of the family with the same surname. With elements such as local semi-precious stones, centuries-old olive gardens, works by renowned artists, and cuisine inspired by ancestral origins, the old gains contemporary curation and global elements.

The recent success of series that showcase “private club” lifestyles is also a sign of this renewed interest in traditions. “Succession” portrays a patriarchal legacy that marked the boom of quiet luxury, characterized by precise codes of discreet opulence. Less minimalistic, “White Lotus” is set in a Mediterranean paradise hotel, where the historical value of architecture and culture remains a focal point to enrich the narrative ambiance.

In practical terms, how can these codes be applied to tomorrow’s beauty and wellness?

COLOURS: This resurgence of a notion of classicism linked to ancient arts and cultures brings a new, more sensitive, and aesthetic dimension to the timeless cosmetics of tomorrow. It encourages the use of softer colors, natural dyes, or noble materials. White marble, rosewood, and light coral, the sheen of platinum or metallic bronze, warmed by terracotta red to add sensuality.

BEAUTY: Consider a modern, understated, and sophisticated touch with very subtle shades for refined shaping and sculpting. This beauty evokes the androgynous grace of ancient statues with a distinct yet minimalist elegance.

PRODUCTS: Luxury codes also extend to mythical ingredients and processes that benefit from time, such as fermentation.

RITUALS: Draw inspiration from the concept of exclusive private clubs. From ultra-personalized beauty regimens to subtle details and collector’s items: reimagine ancient beauty rituals with enchantment.

PACKAGING: It’s worth drawing inspiration from the concept of exclusive private clubs. From ultra-personalized beauty regimens to subtle details and collector’s items: reimagine ancient beauty rituals with enchantment. Bottles can draw inspiration from more intricate perfume shapes or simplified lines, without losing the detail of preciousness.

Reimagined in a modern and innovative vein, luxury classics can be a wonderful source of inspiration and expression, while providing enduring and comforting references. Embrace these trends to bring quality and tradition to the beauty of the future!

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BROWSE SHOWSThe post Modern legacy first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/marketing-trends/modern-legacy/feed/ 0 20838 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/marketing-trends/natural-symbiosis/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-region/marketing-trends/natural-symbiosis/#respond Wed, 26 Jul 2023 09:00:40 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=20412 A constant flow of studies has been providing scientific support for the benefits of reconnecting with the world of plants: from recognizing our common biological evolution to the virtues of applied ecology. Such studies emphasize how important it is for humanity, and especially for our personal balance, to resonate with plants and vegetation. The perception […]

On that day, we had some major items on the schedule: besides making the final arrangements for the group’s talks at in-cosmetics Latin America, we would personally interview Bruna Tavares, journalist, digital influencer (with over 5 million followers on her Instagram accounts), and founder of the cosmetics brand of the same name Bruna Tavares (BT), which is also part of the FarmaMake group. In this meeting, we officially invited Bruna to participate in in-cosmetics 2022, and she accepted.

To get to the group’s meeting room – a super cosy “instagrammable” environment – we crossed a long corridor with plenty of laboratories and different teams working on cosmetics research and development. In one of these laboratories, exclusive to the BT brand, the entrepreneur Bruna Tavares invests many hours of work, participating directly in the development phase of exclusive products for her brand. In 2022 alone, there will be 15 launchings and 69 new SKUs, besides BT’s entry in the skincare category with the Cherry Blossom line.

Before we started the interview, Bruna told us, giddy with excitement, that she recently volunteered to be a “citizen scientist” in NASA’s asteroid-hunting programme. “I have become an asteroid hunter. What we do is: we analyse images in search of significant asteroids and report back to Harvard. The other day, my captain said that she could analyse my images if I didn’t have the time. But I replied that she had no idea who I was. If I get into something like that, I take the bull by its horns. I start it off to save the planet – that’s the goal.” the entrepreneur teases.

The surprise we had at finding an “asteroid hunter” is just an appetiser of Bruna’s trajectory. She started in the beauty universe in 2009, when she graduated in journalism at PUC Campinas, in the countryside of São Paulo. She had a meteoric rise in the following years, with the creation of the blog “Pausa para Feminices”(“A break for femininities” in free translation from Brazilian Portuguese) and also the launching of her cosmetics brand in 2016. Nowadays, BT is known nationally and has an excellent performance, with a turnover that exceeds 30 million dollars per year.

When she graduated in journalism, Bruna took advantage of the knowledge she already had in blog creation – due to a project developed during her degree – and decided to invest in a blog with topics focused on culture, fashion and beauty, with the aim of networking. With time, she noticed the growth of the beauty section and led the blog to this area.

“I have always loved make-up. My mother loves red lipstick – she was a banker and used to go to work every day wearing this colour – it was her trademark. In addition, I also took up theatre from a young age, so make-up has always been a place of empowerment, self-esteem and art in my life.” the businesswoman explains.

Bruna started out writing make-up reviews and her blog grew at the same time as her career as a journalist. As a reporter and editor of well-known portals and magazines in Brazil, she got to know the press officers of all beauty brands. It was talking to one of them that turned her career around.

The journalist learned that the brand Tracta was doing an unprecedented project in Brazil with influencers. Tracta, a reference in the Brazilian cosmetics market with make-up and dermo-cosmetic facial treatment lines, is part of Farmaervas, a pioneer company in the development of natural products, present in the Brazilian market since 1940.

Tracta chose 12 bloggers to develop a lipstick to be launched in a unique collection. Bruna was invited at the last minute because one of the influencers dropped out. Between the invitation and the lipstick creation, there were just 2 weeks: “I didn’t have time to plan, but I managed to get a buzz going on my blog, and I involved my public in choosing the colour and the name for the lipstick. The post about my participation in the project had a record number of comments, so I thought I would have to create a different lipstick colour that would please this public because they would certainly be the ones who would buy the lipstick”, the businesswoman says.

On the day of the creation in the lab, she presented the idea of making lipstick in neon coral colour, using the picture of a salmon fish as a reference. But she was very insecure when she saw that all the other bloggers had taken MAC lipsticks as references. Her colour was very complex, it took them a long time to get the shade and she went home feeling very unsettled. When her mother tried the lipstick, she said: “Bruna, I’ve never seen anything like it! Look how beautiful this colour looks on me”.

“My mother is very straight, so I felt that was a sign. I wanted that “WOW” feeling. To this day, when I develop a product, I go back to that place and seek that reaction from my mother. I always think about how the consumer will feel and react to a product: it has to be good enough to impact the customer, regardless of the campaign,” she explains.

Instead of receiving the commission in cash, Bruna asked for payment in lipsticks and started sending them to journalists and influencers as a business card and publicity. The lipstick was Tracta’s best seller and, in a short time, her blog skyrocketed from 4,000 hits a day to 40,000, which earned her new work partnerships, including with cosmetics giant Sephora.

At that time, what she earned from advertising on the blog was already higher than her salary as a journalist, but she still did not dare to leave the editorial room. In 2012, she developed a complete make-up line with Tracta, using the name of her blog “Pausa para Feminices”. In 2013, she stopped her work as a journalist and started to dedicate herself to creating new cosmetic lines and products, and in 2016 Bruna finally launched her brand, which bears her name.

Since then, BT has only grown. In 2019, it was already making 10 million reais and, in 2020, it launched the first line of foundations in Brazil with 30 different shades. Their success was so great that, in 3 days, they sold 200,000 units of the products, which helped the company grow 67% that year.

The line with 30 shades of foundation was a project that took more than 2 years to get off the ground. Even in such an ethnically diverse country, national brands only offered 9 to 10 shades of foundation. When Bruna noticed this gap in the market and the delay of products from abroad reaching the country, she decided to research and launch a national line that would better cater to the Brazilian consumer.

In 2021, a year of pandemic and crisis in the Brazilian and world market, the brand managed to grow 10%, reaching an annual turnover of more than 18 million dollars. In 2022, with a line that boasts 213 SKUs, Bruna Tavares’ BT projects to sell almost 6.5 million products and have revenue that will surpass the impressive $30 million mark, a 71% growth over the previous year.

At in-cosmetics Latin America 2022, Bruna took part in a panel on social media and influencers alongside founders of other beauty brands and representatives from TikTok’s beauty and personal care sector. At that time, she shared some moments of her inspiring story, highlighting the challenge of entering retail since, a few years ago, companies still did not understand how a brand with a blogger’s name could be successful. Only after partnering with Sephora did retailers open their doors to the brand.

At the in-cosmetics panel – which was packed – Bruna told the audience that product creations always come from market research and gaps. “We do the briefing based on the existing demand and deliver the needs to our lab. Nowadays, I already understand a lot more about the formulation, so we create together,” she explained.

When asked about BT’s next steps, Bruna Tavares makes no mystery: she tells us that soon the brand will present a new product that will offer different experiences to the consumer and talks about the brand’s internationalisation – which is already on its way. “I am constantly learning, and my challenge as a businesswoman now is to be able to think about the brand’s longevity without dehumanising it,” she concludes.

We end the interview by looking at an image of an asteroid that the businesswoman found for Nasa, named BTS003. We don’t know if she will find an asteroid of vital importance and save the planet, but we are sure that even the sky is no limit for Bruna. In this context involving space, Bruna Tavares is certainly a star that stands out in the constellation of brands and beauty business people in Brazil already, and soon she will also be known and recognised internationally.

Fly high, Bruna and BT! Our in-cosmetics community will always be watching you!

* BT’s turnover is in Brazilian reais. However, for this article, we have converted the figures into US dollars at the exchange rate of 13/10/2022

1 USD = 5.26021 BRL

Since Evonik’s acquisition of Infinitec, it has built a large and extremely advanced delivery systems portfolio in cosmetics and is able to provide countless solutions to R&D, formulators, and even marketers. We heard from Evonik’s Global Head of Marketing – Delivery Systems, Mr. Joan Gonzalez to explore this topic further.

(Sponsored Post)

1. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a real rise in interest and emphasis on active ingredients within skincare products. While the active ingredients play a large role in creating skincare products that are effective, the delivery systems of these ingredients are just as important. Could you expand further on this?

Although many consumers are unaware of the important role delivery systems play in their favourite skin care product, they are one of the most critical, vital components to ensure the overall functionality and performance of a product. It is a bold claim, but true. Active ingredients are the true stars of a personal care or skin care product, as they are the ingredients that deliver on the product claims. But they rely on innovative, effective delivery systems to make good on the claims found on skincare, personal care, or beauty product labels and packaging. We should always understand active ingredients and delivery systems as a duo. One is as important as the other.

2. How would you describe the present impact of delivery systems in the cosmetic industry?

We’ve seen how beauty and science have become more intertwined, with science and technology playing key roles in the advancement of the beauty industry. Consumers, too, have become more ingredient savvy. They evaluate product quality and performance over marketing hype to maintain their brand loyalty. Over the few past years, an increasing number of beauty brands are using these “smart” delivery systems to launch higher-performing skin care and make-up products. To engage consumers and create a loyal following, brands must differentiate themselves and their product offerings to compete with all the noise in the beauty market. For most of our clients, it is critical to stay ahead of the curve by using cutting edge ingredient technology to offer their customers next-generation products that produce real results.

3. What are the advantages of cosmetic delivery systems and how can formulators make better use of them when creating finished products?

The first directive of a delivery system is to solve a problem. At the beginning, a cosmetic delivery system was a technology created to incorporate, integrate, protect, and stabilize the active ingredients within a skin care, personal care, or cosmetic product. But, nowadays, delivery systems equal performance as they have other critical abilities such as making sure active ingredients arrive at their intended destination at the optimal consistency, temperature, pH, in the correct amount of time or extend their bioavailability within skin time to yield superlative results. Our technology also allows for the use of fewer actives with better efficacy, contributing to clean and more sustainable cosmetic formulations. And it is this integration of active ingredients that make cosmetic delivery systems so vitally important to product formulations. Cutting-edge delivery systems are ace at helping formulators create both highly powerful and highly stable products that help active ingredients step up to the plate and deliver big results.

4. Can you talk to us about your extensive delivery systems portfolio?

There is no single, unique delivery system that works for everything, since its selection depends on many factors, either by the type of ingredient that is intended to be incorporated and its physical and chemical characteristics, the place of the action or even the duration of such action. Having the largest and most advanced portfolio of delivery systems technologies allows us to always find the best solution for any specific problem. The present offer of Delivery Systems allows us to expand the capabilities of our active ingredients business and strongly contribute to create the value and innovation our customers love.

5. Do you feel the matter of delivery systems gets lost when it comes to skin care marketing?

Today is one of the most exciting times in history for cosmetic and beauty product formulators but also for marketers and consumers. Thanks to incredible innovations in delivery system technology, brands are now offering the most effective products ever to bring consumers a myriad of results and the beautiful, healthy skin and hair they lust after. We are far from reaching the notoriety that active ingredients have, but it is becoming more and more common to see how Delivery Systems gain importance in the final products of many cosmetic brands. At present, the innovation and technology that Delivery Systems provide represent a great added value in such a competitive market.

Joan Gonzalez
Global Head of Marketing | Delivery Systems | Care Solutions
Mobile +34 672257202 |  juan1.gonzalez@evonik.com
Infinitec Activos S.L. | Nutrition & Care
Can Parellada 22, 2-3 | 08170 Montornés del Vallés | Spain
www.evonik.com

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