(Sponsored Content) – Q&A with Gentaro Hayashi, CEO of Vitamin C60

Can you please explain to us what makes fullerene such high performance materials?　
Fullerene is the super antioxidant for anti-ageing with strong, long-lasting, and stable features and, interestingly, the professors who discovered Fullerene received the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1996. Fullerene can be expected to have an antioxidant effect more than 250 times that of vitamin C. We have focused on Fullerene for more than 15 years and are held in high esteem by dermatologists and manufacturers alike.
Clinical tests have been done on the efficacy of Fullerene on age spots, wrinkles, acne, skin barrier function, pore tightening, and even more. By formulating with Fullerene ingredients you can produce high-performing, anti-ageing cosmetics.

Why are fullerenes so popular in South-East Asia?
Our Fullerene ingredients are popular in Japan, China and other Asian countries because of their high functionality and high safety coupled with Japanese quality. It is also praised for its abundant collection of highly reliable clinical data. Most clinical trials are the result of joint research with university professors and cosmetic dermatologists, and many trials have been published at academic conferences and also published as papers.
We also approach consumers by posting our articles on social media. We are carrying out promotional activities to raise consumer awareness of Fullerene.
Last year, our ingredient, Radical Sponge received its halal certification. We think that having obtained Halal certification makes it easier to formulate our ingredients in products that are targeting a worldwide audience.

You are launching five more Fullerene products this year, tell us more about these… 
This October, we are planning to launch 5 new ingredients containing naturally-derived Fullerene. We spent almost 5 years developing the naturally-derived Fullerene and this naturally-derived Fullerene is produced from the cedar of domestic forests that are well managed for sustainability. We produce our naturally-derived Fullerene by using hydroelectric power. The use of a clean energy source means the manufacturing process is also environmentally friendly. For manufacturers, our ingredients are packaged in an aluminium pouch, which can reduce the volume of industrial waste.
In short, our new Fullerene ingredients are the strongest antioxidant ingredient for ageing care, with natural, high-performance, sustainable and eco-friendly properties.

Tell us more about the benefits of incorporating these naturally-derived Fullerene into formulations
Our fullerene ingredients are UV, heat and pH stable and easily blended into any cosmetic formulation. Our ingredients are easy to formulate and are mixed into various items from skincare to make-up and these are all available for customers via our formulation guidelines.
As mentioned above, our ingredients are multi-functional with high quality so our Fullerene ingredients are the best solution for “Anti-Ageing”, “Clean Beauty” ,”J-Beauty” and “Sustainable” concepts.

Want to find out more? Check out Vitamin C60’s range

(Sponsored content): Interview with Ricard Armengol, CEO, Provital

Earlier this year, Provital unveiled a wonderfully named new ingredient, followed by a  new corporate identity so we caught up with their CEO Ricard Armengol to find out more…

Why did Provital decide to rebrand?

We believe that care means taking action. Just like our products (CareActives and CareMotives) do as they are active ingredients and natural extracts dedicated to skincare and haircare. This is also reflected in our company’s strong commitment to ethical and sustainable development. It’s about caring for communities, the planet and humanity, from our internal teams to the final consumer. We really wanted to give expression and visibility to that powerful purpose.

So tell us more about your new manifesto…

Can you give us an example of how this manifesto is being put into practice, for example in the field of sustainability?

Our “Mujeres y Ambiente” project (“Women and the Environment” in English) in La Carbonera (Querétaro, Mexico) has been awarded the Equator Prize2020, organized by the Equator Initiative within the United Nations Development Programme.

This women-founded and women-led association has been working to develop and market cosmetics based on local plants including a new Nagoya Protocol-compliant natural active ingredient.

The association also supports women entrepreneurs to grow their agricultural micro-businesses, and engages in biodiversity conservation, restoration, stabilization of soils, and nursery cultivation.

Provital is proud to be an active part of this initiative that advances nature-based solutions for local sustainable development

Can you also tell us a little more about Provital’s Strategic Plan for 2030?

Our plan has been designed to serve as a guide for a profound transformation of the company in the coming years. It includes clear objectives for growth and consolidation in the market as a benchmark in assets always based on our values. The plan will be communicated to the market at the end of the year. We have a well-defined roadmap and set of milestones to 2025 and 2030… Rebranding is only the beginning…

Earlier this year you launched “Wonderage”  a new active which, as the name implies, celebrates maturity. What can formulators look forward to?             

Wonderage is naturally-derived – it is extracted from the monk fruit.  The beauty of it is that it balances the epigenetics of mature skin. It has also been  shown to combat the dreaded tech neck syndrome, quite a topical complaint as people are working from home and arguably spending longer in front of their screens than ever before! Plus it improves the dermal structure by boosting endogenous hyaluronic acid whilst strengthening collagen fibers. It ticks all the boxes by responding to the needs of mature skin, whether we are talking luminosity, hydration and density. In addition, it reduces wrinkles on eye contour and the neck. The A-I powered tests we ran with volunteers showed that 67% of them felt delighted with the product – we believe that happiness is the key to beauty, so this is certainly a very positive outcome! Last but not least, Wonderage is halal-certified as well as Cosmos, vegan and China IECIC compliant so it has worldwide appeal!

Power your formulations with Wonderage. Find Wonderage at in-cosmetics Global, in-cosmetics Asia and in-cosmetics Latin America.

in-cosmetics, the meeting point and learning hub for the personal care development community worldwide, has joined forces with Covalo, a comprehensive search platform connecting beauty brands and suppliers.

Together, they have created Discover: an innovative online platform that will transform the way visitors and exhibitors can find their best business matches before, during and after in-person events.

Here are a few insights about what visitors are looking for, that we could already learn from Discover ahead of the event:

• There is a very high search volume for Hyaluronic Acid, which is seeing new versions available in the market mostly from biotechnological origin.

• There is a general trend towards Marine ingredients – from seaweed, to marine sponges, to upcycled fish skin! – as a response to the interest shown by consumers in novel bioactive compounds from natural sources, instead of synthetic ingredients. Marine ingredients can help offer skin vitamins and minerals, UV and anti-oxidant protection,  anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-aging benefits and more, while doubling as a potential eco-friendly solution.

• Henna is the most surprising out of the top viewed products on Discover! An ingredient as old as time, that can be used towards different performance claims. It is most popularly used as a natural dye for semi-permanent hair colouring systems, usually delivered in a shampoo base.

• Active Ingredients have 3x the amount of searches of any other ingredient functions on Discover.

• Contract Manufacturing and Testing are the most sought after services on the platform.

• Half of the top 30 most viewed products are formulations: formulators do not want to start from a blank sheet, and are looking for inspiration on how to use some of the innovative ingredients recently launched by exhibitors.

Discover is a new digital platform for in-cosmetics events, allowing visitors and exhibitors to connect and collaborate all year round.

The platform enables visitors to search for products, engage with suppliers, and get inspired by the latest product launches. Discover also helps exhibitors to promote their new ingredients and innovations, and to arrive at the event already with warm leads.

Whether it’s your first time at an in-cosmetics event or if you are a frequent visitor, you’ll probably want to drink in all the innovation, understand in which direction the industry is moving, or listen to experts on various topics.

But on the other hand, you probably have a few very concrete projects you’re working on, and you might not be quite sure how to optimise your time and connections at the upcoming event.

In comes Discover:

• Start browsing through the products of all exhibitors ahead of the event, to find that specific ingredient or formulation you are looking for;

• Filter for specific certifications, claims, and many other attributes that are key for your formulation brief;

• Conveniently request documents, quotes, samples and meetings with your short-listed exhibitors, so that you can make the most out of your event visit.

Now you’re ahead of the game: you haven’t even been to the event yet, but already you have selected highly relevant exhibitors, bookmarking them on your Discover profile.

Schedule a meeting or head straight to the right stand to establish that personal connection that can only be achieved in person.

With this approach, you’ll get to these discussions better prepared and well-informed. Just think about the time, patience, and aimless circles you just saved your future self from!

When you get to the event, you’ll have more time and energy to enjoy discovering what the future of cosmetic innovation is looking like, and stumble across connections you weren’t even planning on making – which is what wandering at a cosmetic fair is great for!

The magic of an in-person event can never be replaced: establishing personal connections, getting inspired, learning and exploring the latest innovation in the industry, the sensorial experience of seeing, touching and smelling the different ingredients!

Once combined with the digital experience of Discover, you’ll be able to make the most out of your experience.

The in-cosmetics Group is all about the beauty of collaboration and has a long-standing reputation for organising successful in-person events, bringing together suppliers of personal care ingredients, brands and cosmetics manufacturers.

With 40,000+ visitors and 1,800+ exhibitors, the in-cosmetics Group has become the leading personal care ingredient community, with recurring events all around the world.

Covalo, on the other hand, helps beauty brands and suppliers connect online through their comprehensive search platform and wide access to data. Currently more than 80,000 ingredients are listed by more than 1,000 suppliers, readily available 365 days a year.

It is the combination of both sets of expertise that has led to Discover, which is set to play a key role in the future of the personal care industry.

Discover shows how technology can drive innovation in an industry that values personal relationships, allowing the beauty and personal care industry to seamlessly connect in both realms.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

A new digital natural formulation-focused tool, a digital asset-led campaign and a new multi-million project looks for plant-based feedstock alternatives to progress innovations in beauty and personal care. Scalp care and personal care repellent launches focus on protecting consumers’ skin.

In our bi-weekly cosmetics round-up, we delve into the beauty and personal care space to explore the latest news, updates, launches and developments around the globe.

Clariant launches online tool for natural beauty manufacturing.

Personal care company, Clariant, conceptualises and releases a new digital tool to give beauty and personal care brands information on the naturality of their proposed formulations.

In creating its personal care tool, BeautyForward 6, Clariant seeks to enable consumers to access natural knowledge about ingredients and products. The tool is designed to calculate the percentage of natural ingredients and the naturality of personal care formulations.

The tool was produced in alignment with the industry-standardised framework, ISO 16128 methodology, which defines and quantifies criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.

With over 800 Clariant and non-Clariant ingredients on its platform, the personal care name aims to provide information on the ingredient’s naturality. Clariant aims to help manufacturers explore the contents of individual ingredients and formulations listed on the platform. Users can access the information to create their formulation from scratch or follow guidance to help produce their desired end-product.

“There is evident increasing consumer preference for natural, specifically plant-based ingredients, as well as a growing expectation for brands to understand and communicate on naturality with transparency,” said Hermann Bach, Global Head of Strategic Marketing and Innovation at Clariant.

Clinique and Daz 3D partner to create beauty brand’s first makeup NFT.

US multinational beauty producer, Clinique, joins forces with non-fungible community developer, Daz 3D, to release the beauty brand’s first-ever makeup non-fungible token (NFT) campaign.

Clinique is the first of the Estée Lauder brands to move into the NFT space (an increasingly popular move by beauty brands) by producing and showcasing its first advanced technology-led makeup campaign, called “Metaverse More Like Us”.

By utilising the digital asset, Clinique gears up to develop its profile on the 3D internet, otherwise known as the metaverse, as it aims to build a better and more inclusive online beauty world.

In collaboration with Daz 3D, Clinique worked with makeup artists and creators, including Tess Daly, Sheika Daley and Emira D’Spain and leading authority in NFT, Cathy Hackl, to produce its inaugural makeup campaign using the increasingly-prevalent unit of data.

The makeup artists and creators each produced two beauty aesthetics, forming a total of six makeup creations. In developing its looks, Clinique wanted to embrace a diverse range of NFPs to reflect all skin tones, face shapes and hairstyles.

“Our mission to be in the service of all skin means that we’re dedicated to increasing inclusivity everywhere our brand connects with consumers, and that commitment is no different in the Metaverse,” said Carolyn Dawkins, SVP of Global Marketing, Analytics and Online at Clinique. “As the Metaverse is blossoming, we know that what we create today can positively impact the beauty standards of the future,” added Dawkins.

Unilever and Genomatica embark on $120 million venture to scale plant-based feedstocks.

Personal care supplier Unilever and biotechnology company Genomatica (Geno) announce a $120 million (€114 mn) joint venture to develop alternatives to palm oil and fossil fuels for personal care products.

By collaborating, the new partnership will allow both companies to access new sustainable ingredients and technologies to create more environmentally-friendly everyday personal care products by finding plant-based feedstock varieties.

The new partnership marks Unilever’s largest venture in exploring possible biotechnology alternatives to palm oil. Together, the duo will focus on commercialising and scaling options to palm oil and fossil fuel-derived cleansing ingredients.

Geno will draw on its platform to find plant-based feedstocks. Currently, it is moving towards scaling its sustainable feedstock-focused process to enable its advanced technology to produce ingredients. The company is using plant- or waste-based feedstock to create fossil fuel alternative materials that can be scaled and commercialised for use in the personal care sector.

Early indications suggest that by utilising biotech, brands in the personal care sector can reduce the carbon footprint of palm-derived ingredients by 50% with the adoption of plant-based varieties.

“We’ve developed our technology in response to our planet’s urgent climate crisis and we’ve proven that biotechnology can replace traditional production methods to produce ingredients with bio-based sources that deliver both high-performance and sustainability, at scale,” relayed Christophe Schilling, CEO of Geno.

“Biotechnology has the potential to revolutionise the sourcing of our cleansing ingredients,” said Richard Slater, Chief Research and Development (R&D) Officer at Unilever. “We are building this innovative new venture to have the scale to drive real impact and change in our industry, helping to reinvent the chemistry of home and personal care products for the 21st Century,” Slater added.

Kao develops new mosquito repellent product.

Japanese personal care brand, Kao, unveils its newly-developed mosquito repellent for consumers in Thailand. The product, Bioré GUARD Mos Block Serum, utilises the Asian skincare and personal care brand’s technology to provide a serum that blocks mosquitos by having widespread protection over the skin.

Developing its new technology saw Kao research how best to protect consumers from mosquitoes. The brand subsequently devised its latest product, a formula that acts as a protection shield, with the aim of offering skin protection. The technology’s mechanism is geared to differ from conventional insect repellents on the market, which it states “rely on mainly volatile active agents”.

Kao has set up its Guard Our Future global project to help save lives from mosquitoes by working to control dengue fever and other infectious diseases spread by mosquitoes. It is initially releasing its product in Thailand and then plans to extend to the wider Southeast Asia region to build awareness-raising activities, field testing and research activities.

The formulation contains natural citronella oil, floral blossom fragrance and lavender valley fragrances and is deet-free. Kao designed the formulation to have a non-sticky texture and to provide widespread coverage on the skin.

Nutrafol unveils patent-pending scalp system.

Hair health brand, Nutrafol, releases a new product line that draws on understanding of hair biology. The unveiling of its patent-pending Scalp Microbiome Support comes after research into the scalp barrier and the impact of both internal and external environmental impacts on the scalp microbiome.

The physician-formulated products have been created to balance the scalp microbiome and offer opportunities for optimal hair growth by using nutraceuticals contained within the product.

Nutrafol’s new collection of scalp care products includes an exfoliating mask, a cleansing shampoo and a scalp microbiome essence. The product line also contains the Microbiome Friendly Seal certification, which is used by personal care brands to indicate those products that follow specific clinical testing to ensure products look after and encourage positive microbial diversity.

“The scalp microbiome is not just another trendy health topic being talked about on social media—it is an important element to overall hair health that should be cared for just as much as people care about their skin routines,” said Giorgos Tsetis, CEO and co-founder of Nutrafol.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

Compromised skin and related care ingredients topped Cosmetics & Toiletries’ trending key search terms in 2021. This underscores a major area of interest for product developers—who, in turn, are responding to consumer needs. Example searches ranged from ingredients for milder cleansers, e.g., laureth-4, cocamidopropyl betaine and lauric acid, to hydrating materials such as pentylene glycol and glycerin.

Searches relevant to skin defence also climbed, e.g., skin detox, pollution and the microbiome, alongside those for skin repair and restoration: butters and oils, avocado, sunflower, moringa, cannabis, collagen, shea, humectant, hyaluronic acid, retinol, peptide, arnica, ceramides…

This validates the shift our industry has felt in recent years. Fortune Business Insights projects the larger skin care market will climb from $100.13 billion in 2021 to $145.82 billion in 2028 (a CAGR of 5.52%),1 attributing this rise to a market return to pre-pandemic levels as well as demand for creams, lotions and powders that nourish and improve the quality and health of the skin. [1]

Dermocosmetics, in particular, Prescient and Strategic Intelligence reports, were valued at $57.0 billion in 2020 and are projected to grow at a CAGR of 7.3% during 2020-2030. The source points to surging purchasing power of consumers as one driver, as well as an increased inclination toward spending on appearance, the increasing prevalence of skin diseases, and even the rising number of dermocosmetic conferences. [2]

In relation, iHealthcare Analyst, Inc.,3 reports the global market for dermatology products, both diagnostic and therapeutic, is expected to attain $27.8 billion by 2027, growing at a steady CAGR of 3.1% from 2021. This rise will be driven by the increasing incidence of acute and chronic skin disorders and higher skin and subcutaneous diseases worldwide. More specifically, according to the firm, chronic and acute skin diseases such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, squamous cell carcinoma, eczema, dermatitis and pruritus are reported as major health concerns worldwide and account for a large portion of health care associated financial burden. These conditions affect between 30% and 70% of individuals globally, with even higher rates in at-risk subpopulations. [3]

In early January 2021, Larissa Jensen of NPD noted that 2020 sales of natural skin care were, for the first time, eclipsed by clinical skin care, which has “now become the largest brand type in skin care.”4 In the same article, Lisa Holmes of Euromonitor stated that “just as demand for clean and safe skin care formulations has risen, so have preferences for medically backed and clinically proven brands, which are deeply rooted in efficacy and science-backed results.”[4]

These market indicators point a new beauty consumer who is using skin care for medicinal purposes. Indeed, a story on Medline [5] observed that consumer skin care trends could impact clinical skin care treatments—the U.S. pharmacy retailer CVS reported a few years ago that 70% of its pharmacists are asked about skin care every day. Clearly, there are limitations on what a “cosmetic” product can claim (or do) but consumers are taking us into Terra nullius (unclaimed territory). We’ll need to watch our step.

References

1. https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/skin-care-market-102544
2. https://www.psmarketresearch.com/market-analysis/dermacosmetics-market
3. https://www.ihealthcareanalyst.com/dermatology-diagnostics-therapeutics-market-2020-rising-acute-chronic-skin-disorders/
4. https://www.gcimagazine.com/business/rd/ingredients/Skin-Care-2021-573877411.html
5. https://www.medline.com/strategies/skin-health/consumer-skin-care-trends-influence-patients-skin-care/

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter! https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/subscribe-to-in-cosmetics-connect/The post ‘Medicinal’ skincare first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/medicinal-skin-care-written-by-rachel-l-grabenhofer-managing-scientific-editor-cosmetics-toiletries/feed/ 0 17033 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/speciality-chemicals-incosmtics-global/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/speciality-chemicals-incosmtics-global/#respond Fri, 18 Mar 2022 14:45:55 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=16967 (Sponsored post) Saying that I am looking forward to in-cosmetics Global returning in person on 5-7 April is not to say anything very surprising. It’s Paris in the springtime, this is the one big event in my year where the attendee base is not mainly middle-aged men in suits like, er, me, and it is always a good one for journalists because so […]

(Sponsored post)

Saying that I am looking forward to in-cosmetics Global returning in person on 5-7 April is not to say anything very surprising.

It’s Paris in the springtime, this is the one big event in my year where the attendee base is not mainly middle-aged men in suits like, er, me, and it is always a good one for journalists because so many companies use it to launch and/or showcase new products. This is something of a rarity at industry events in the pharmaceuticals and agrochemicals markets, the other two major markets we cover in Speciality Chemicals Magazine.

Paris was the venue the first time I went to in-cosmetics Global in 2003. It was a significantly smaller show than it is now – and I had just come from a plastics industry title where the triennial European event took over all 17 halls of Messe Düsseldorf for nine days. The single large hall occupied by in-cosmetics seemed like a breeze by comparison.

All the same, there was a lot to do and quite a steep learning curve to climb, not least in learning the very different language and emphasis in the personal care sector by comparison with the industrial markets I had been covering. It was so much more driven by marketing, subjectivity and emotion.

Nonetheless, there was – and indeed is – plenty of good, old-fashioned chemistry at the heart of personal care formulation. And back then, there was a distinction between the chemical companies familiar to me from other markets, including most of the biggest in the world, who overlapped into personal care and the (generally) smaller specialists in natural products.

Unlike almost all of the other journalists who attended then, my interest was firmly with the former. Seaweed extracts, citrus oils, natural peptides, Bolivian yak butter (OK, so I made that one up) and the like were not on my radar screen in 2002, nor in most cases were they for the chemical companies.

Fast forward a bit and the world has changed a lot. The chemical companies now speak the language of personal care in exactly the same way as everyone else. They have moved into that space by a mixture of acquisition and organic expansion into new areas of expertise. At the same time, they are not afraid to say that what they do is chemistry.

And, while there are still a few brands who talk the language of ‘free from’ and ‘no artificial chemicals’, I think there is more of a general respect for the capabilities chemistry has brought to personal care. After three years without an in-cosmetics Global and now that I also wear another hat as editor of a specialist personal care magazine, I shall be very interested to see how the industry has changed. See you in Paris.

 The post Returning to in-cosmetics Global 2022: Dr. Andrew Warmington, Editor of Speciality Chemicals Magazine first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/uncategorized/speciality-chemicals-incosmtics-global/feed/ 0 16967 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/personalcare/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/personalcare/#respond Wed, 16 Mar 2022 15:27:37 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=16961 (Sponsored post) In a changed world, the post-pandemic state of mind has evolved, and along with it, the needs and wants of society. Paul Ramires discusses with us the roles that both the personal care industry – and specifically Quimivita –  play in this new landscape. 1. The pandemic seems to have shifted the collective […]

The post Vita Naturgel®: A plant-based thickener designed to replace synthetic and microplastic thickeners. A Q&A with Paul Ramires, marketing manager, Quimivita first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> (Sponsored post)

In a changed world, the post-pandemic state of mind has evolved, and along with it, the needs and wants of society. Paul Ramires discusses with us the roles that both the personal care industry – and specifically Quimivita –  play in this new landscape.

1. The pandemic seems to have shifted the collective mindset towards the ‘new natural’ – an eagerness to return to more holistic, natural, and sustainable ingredients (and finished products). Why do you think that is, and what opportunities does that present to the personal care industry?

If lockdowns have done anything, it has been to break the confirmation bias that blinds us for much of our lives. Although we only believe what we want to believe, when we can witness the opposite with our eyes, at that precise moment, our brain starts to agree with reality.

And the reality has been that the cessation of all human activity has revealed images such as cities with uncovered skies, animals walking through the streets and much, much time to think.

Sustainability is not a fact, but an awareness, and the combination of both factors has resulted in a drastic increase in the concern for consuming products that care for the environment.

I think that given the high level of stress generated by the fear instilled by COVID, a great opportunity from the cosmetics industry is to contribute to solving that need: wellness.

The good thing about wellness is that it can be approached from many fronts, but without a doubt, the one that is causing the most complaints today (and where many remains to be innovated) is clean beauty.

2. The launch of your latest ingredient, Vita Naturgel^®, is a remarkable achievement in terms of bypassing a big environmental concern right now, which is microplastic. How important was it for Quimivita to create a plant-based thicker to replace its synthetic counterparts?

One of the difficulties that cosmetic formulators often encounter is that natural ingredients allow them to put “clean beauty” claims on their products, but they do not have to be as effective as their synthetic alternative.

Vita Naturgel® is one more product from our line of speciality functional ingredients that fit into the clean beauty category and that have also been designed thinking not only of what the final consumer wants, but also of the formulators.

Our R&D department is constantly looking for new ideas to ensure that the new ingredients we develop can present a story linked to nature, while their effectiveness can be demonstrated in formulas.

This latest release combines a storytelling that has its origins in the ocean (more specifically in a very select variety of carrageenan and alginate).

In addition to being 100% biodegradable, this product also contributes to the community spirit, being cultivated in an artisanal way.

3. Vita Naturgel^® is a water-soluble, natural hydrocolloid extracted from certain species of red seaweed, Rhodophyceae, and brown algae. How did Quimivita discover this unique raw material?

I cannot talk about the origin of this ingredient without first mentioning our CSO, Manuela Bermudez.

Manuela is a person who not only has a long career in the cosmetics industry, which allows her to have a global vision of the sector, but also always seeks that innovation and efficiency go hand in hand.

In the case of Vita Naturgel®, the challenge was to find a thickener that was not only of natural and sustainable origin, but also retained its properties when produced.

By turning our attention to the sea, we found what we were looking for.

4. Aside from the sustainability factors, what are the other major benefits of replacing thickening agents that contain synthetic ingredients and microplastics with Vita Naturgel^®?

If, in addition to putting natural claims on your cosmetics, you want the consumer to notice an extra touch of naturalness in its application, Vita Naturgel® is made for you.

Vita Naturgel® is gelling, thickening, stabilising and has bioactive attributes.

This plant-based thickener allows you to improve the organoleptic characteristics of your products while providing smooth and creamy textures in emulsions and surfactants systems.

5. In the name of innovation and remaining future-focused, what’s next for Quimivita

We have several projects underway and although we prefer not to reveal much information about them, what we can say is that we are more aware than ever of the imperative need for the industry to turn towards more sustainable solutions and of the challenges these represent for cosmetic brands.

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You can look forward to visiting Quimivita at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event on stand V65The post Vita Naturgel®: A plant-based thickener designed to replace synthetic and microplastic thickeners. A Q&A with Paul Ramires, marketing manager, Quimivita first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/personalcare/feed/ 0 16961 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/formulation-summit-2021-key-take-aways-by-barbara-olioso/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/formulation-summit-2021-key-take-aways-by-barbara-olioso/#respond Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:16:48 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=16882 The Formulation Summit 2021 (29-30 November) was a fabulous event which I had the great honour to moderate. It was not just about cosmetic trends, science and regulations, but also about the cosmetic industry’s resilience and the people behind it, from the speakers and the attendees, to the sponsors (CompLife and CLR Berlin) and even […]

The post Formulation Summit 2021 – Key takeaways first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

The Formulation Summit 2021 (29-30 November) was a fabulous event which I had the great honour to moderate. It was not just about cosmetic trends, science and regulations, but also about the cosmetic industry’s resilience and the people behind it, from the speakers and the attendees, to the sponsors (CompLife and CLR Berlin) and even the event organizers who managed to pull through despite the challenges. Even though it lasted for just two days, a lot of content was covered, and in this article I will give a summary of what I believe were the key “take aways” of the event. (1)

COVID CONSUMERS AND INDUSTRY TRENDS – “MORE FOR LESS”
Consumers have kept on using on cosmetics during the pandemic, especially with a mental health focus. They also expect more out of the beauty products they use, and this makes multifunctional cosmetics very trendy and appealing. Examples of this trend are haircare products with de-stressing benefits, and colour cosmetics with additional skincare properties.

Ironically, the industry has ended up embodying the “making more for less” mind set because of the disruption experienced, from staff to ingredients, packaging etc. The raw materials shortage has also shone a light on supply chains, making local supplies more appealing, even if they are not as cost effective. After all, a reliable supply is a very valuable commodity, and if it comes with transparency it is even more valued, so it can add to the credibility and authenticity of a beauty product in a competitive market place driven by consumers with an increasingly stronger sense of ethics.

HAND GELS, “NOT EASY PEASY”
Antibacterial hand gels would seem so simple to make; mix together water, alcohol and a gelling agent and off you go. But they are far more complicated than mixing a few ingredients together; from safe manufacturing conditions to product efficacy, compatible packaging and regulatory compliance, all of these are complicating factors. The same formula can also be sold as a drug, a biocide or a cosmetic, depending on the product claims, which in turn will determine the type of testing and regulatory requirements, and these result in different budgets and timelines. So, a few words about a hand gel can have quite a domino effect on the development cost, as well as the time to get it compliant and where it can be sold.

REGULATORY UPDATES
The UK Cosmetic Regulations initially started in sync with the European ones, however there are divergences ahead, especially regarding the approach to raw materials safety evaluation, i.e. UK REACH. This may be a great challenge to the animal testing ban as, at the moment the UK responsible body does not seem keen to purchase the data already available in Europe. As a result of this divergence, DHA will be permitted at levels above 10%, whereas microplastics, D5 and D6 restrictions will not be implemented in the UK work program for 2021/2022 , which will include PFAS instead.

In the coming spring, the UK will also enforce a plastic tax on packaging that contains less than 30 % PCR plastic. This tax will not apply to pharmaceutical products.

A few months ago a new bill, called the Cosmetic Supply Chain Transparency Act of 2021 (2), was published in the US Congress, giving cosmetics manufacturers and beauty brands the power to request more information about residues present in raw materials as well as safety data to make safer products.

The Ecolabel standard has been revised to include stricter rules regarding Palm Oil derivatives sourcing.

PACKAGING AND PLASTIC POLLUTION, “WHO IS RESPONSIBLE?”
Everybody is aware of pollution caused by plastic packaging, however who is responsible for sorting this out and how do we go about it? Some people believe the key culprit is consumer’s bad behaviour which need to be punished in order to change their polluting habits. Other people believe it is an industry problem, being and call for packaging design that allows for easy recycling ,and for new business models that uses plastic waste as a commodity to manufacture other finished products according to a circular model. The packaging challenge is ultimately everyone’s problem, starting with brand owners, involving the packaging designers, environmental regulators, moulders and packaging manufacturers and finally consumers. Everybody needs to get on board if we are to solve this challenge.

THE NEURO-COSMETICS TRIANGLE: “BRAIN, SKIN, AND EMOTIONS”
A simple movement of our face muscles, like smiling, can induce the release of endorphins, the happy chemicals that make us feel relaxed and even look younger. The skin is the largest sensorial organ and it contains a complex peripheral neuronal system; positive emotions can also be triggered the other way round, by applying cosmetics formulated with hedonistic criteria that can affect the mood. Formulations developed according to this neuro-cosmetic approach can achieve quite interesting results. In fact a fascinating consumers study showed that a product with a good hedonistic profile was favoured over a product with better efficacy data, showing how consumers greatly value the way a cosmetic product makes them feel. This is a relatively new cosmetic frontier, that of neuro-cosmetics, and it carries great innovation potential; but it also has the concomitant danger of being used to mislead consumers in new ways, leading to “neuro-washing”– in order to trick consumers into buying unnecessary products. So, we need to use this new approach wisely.

REFERENCES AND NOTES
1. https://www.in-cosmetics.com/ summit/en-gb/programme/ formulation-summit-programme. html#/sessions
2. https://www.congress.gov/ bill/117th-congress/house[1]bill/5539?s=1&r=18.The post Formulation Summit 2021 – Key takeaways first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/formulation-summit-2021-key-take-aways-by-barbara-olioso/feed/ 0 16882 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/latest-ingredient-round-up-from-sourcing-products-from-upcycled-ingredients-to-koreas-erlin-cosmetics-new-anti-ageing-collection/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/latest-ingredient-round-up-from-sourcing-products-from-upcycled-ingredients-to-koreas-erlin-cosmetics-new-anti-ageing-collection/#respond Tue, 03 Nov 2020 12:30:42 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=12614 P2 Science launches Citropol HA More and more ingredient companies are launching products sourced from upcycled ingredients as part of efforts to up the sustainability stakes for cosmetic products, research from Ecovia Intelligence finds. It is specifically food byproducts that are most commonly being used to create these ingredients, and the market research company is […]

The post Latest ingredient round-up: From sourcing products from upcycled ingredients to Korea’s Erlin Cosmetics’ new anti-ageing collection first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

P2 Science launches Citropol HA

More and more ingredient companies are launching products sourced from upcycled ingredients as part of efforts to up the sustainability stakes for cosmetic products, research from Ecovia Intelligence finds.

It is specifically food byproducts that are most commonly being used to create these ingredients, and the market research company is predicting that the uptake of this trend will increase all the more on the back of supply chains disruption caused by COVID-19.

While tapping into the increasingly popular circular economy and shifting supply chains to more regional models, food side streams are already an important source of ingredients such as palm kernel, which has been used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for many years.

Ecovia experts say that with the collection of raw materials for many natural ingredients being impacted by the pandemic prevention measures and lockdowns, upcycled ingredients are being used to fill to meet the gap in demand.

The company notes that a raft of new ingredient launches from ingredient companies all over the world have included an increasingly varied range of food byproducts that are being used as the basis for a variety of applications.

In the past 12 months, French company Expanscience has developed an active eye care ingredient that is derived from discarded avocadoes, derived from a sustainable supply chain in Peru.

Givaudan has also launched its KoffeeUp ingredient, which is marketed as an alternative to argan oil but is developed from used coffee ground, sourced in partnership from Danish start-up coffee chain Kaffe Bueno.

Meanwhile, Rahn is upcycling pumpkin seeds to make its active ingredient, Reforcyl-Aion, a skincare ingredient that is being marketed on the strength of it forming an important part of the circular economy.

A brand new line of patented biorenewable, biodegradable medium viscosity fluids for cosmetics applications has hit the market. 

 US-based P2 Science says the ingredient line is an alternative to 100 centipoise dimethicone, which is commonly known as silicone cosmetics fluid, used to give a wide range of properties to hair and skincare products. 

The company says that commercial manufacturing of the line is already scheduled at its green chemistry manufacturing facility in Naugatuck, Connecticut. 

“The cosmetics sector is under pressure from many quarters and much of that relates to the environmental and health impacts of the products. Consumers are also becoming increasingly aware and concerned about the ingredients used in products they apply to their skin, hair, lips, and eyes everyday,” said Neil Burns, CEO of P2.

“Citropol HA is one more safe, bioderived, benign product from P2 that brings emollience, moisturizing, slip, shine, and cushion to skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. This new medium viscosity emollient is the latest addition to P2’s innovative green chemistry platform on which we continue to build a family of high-performance cosmetic ingredients.”

And finally, the research highlights Cargill Beauty’s new texturizer ingredient and emulsion stabiliser for skincare products, which is produced using extracted pectin from leftover lemon peel.

SH Cosmetics Group launches anti-ageing line with patented ingredient solution

Korean beauty aesthetics brand Erlin Cosmetics has introduced a new collection of luxury anti-ageing beauty products developed around its patented N-BTX microcap based system. 

The formulation technology uses acetyl hexapeptide and lecithin as active ingredients in a liposome-formed sphere that is said to be stabilised without the use of chemical modifications. 

The development team working on the brand, which is owned by the SH Cosmetics Group, say that the technology means that the formulation advancement maximises the timed release of active ingredients to enable deeper penetration into the skin. 

Currently the N-BTX line includes three products: a Serum, a Treatment Kid and a P+ Peeling Mask. 

“You might ask, why to encapsulate the ingredients, what is so important in time-release? Heat, moisture, pressure, or even friction, can trigger the release of the actives from the carrier system,” said SongHo Lee, CEO of SH Cosmetics Group. 

“A controlled release can offer more efficient release and delivery to the skin, also can help reduce irritation since it doesn’t overwhelm the skin. Moreover, it ensures that your skin is getting the 100% benefit of a product, without wasting even a drop of it.”

Azeco Cosmeceuticals highlights Azco99

Azeco Cosmeceuticals, one of the world’s leading suppliers of cosmetic grade azelaic acid is highlighting its latest offering Azco99 – an ingredient said to have multiple applications. 

The company, which was founded in 2014, is targeting a global launch of the ingredient, with a focus on the Asia Pacific region and Europe, as well as North and South America. 

Azelaic acid is defined as a cosmeceutical because it provides both cosmetics and pharmaceutical properties, providing a wide range of skin and hair care applications that have been backed up by clinical trials. 

The ingredient has been developed to ISO 9001: 2015, as well as being Halal, non-GMO, Cosmos approved, and is also compliant with vegan product requirements. 

As a confirmed naturally derived ingredient, Azco99 has a wide range of skin care applications that include skin lightening, acne treatment, control of rosacea, while it is also said to reduce redness and hyperpigmentation. 

As well as skincare application, it can also be used to stimulate hair growth, thanks to the fact that Azelaic acid serves to inhibit 5a reductase, which means it can be used as a substitute to minoxidil. 

Givaudan commits to natural at origin raw materials

Givaudan has launched its ‘Natural at Origin’ strategic approach to the responsible sourcing of natural materials and associated innovations in the country of origin. 

Company executives claim the initiative is an industry “one-of-a-kind’ stance that places it at source, alongside farmers and producers who are working to develop the naturals for perfumery while also having a positive impact on the planet. 

The initiative builds on the company’s pledge to the responsible and sustainable sourcing of natural ingredients, a pledge that stems back to 2008 when the company first strengthened its approach by committing to an exclusive network of global suppliers that support local communities and responsible sourcing initiatives. 

The company says that the work it has put into this area since 2008 means that currently it purchases approximately 80% of its natural ingredients through this network in the countries of origin, benefiting thousands of people and having a positive environmental impact. 

“We’re committed to supporting and working with farmers and their communities, and also innovating to enrich the perfumers’ palette in a responsible way,” said Givaudan’s President of Fragrance & Beauty, Maurizio Volpi.

“Our new ‘Naturals at Origin’ global strategy is delivering a superb palette of naturals, supporting our label Orpur, and increasing our capability to create nature-conscious fragrances in line with our Naturality Platform.”

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Stay up to date with the latest ingredients round-ups from Simon Pitman, such as ‘the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act to Sederma’s new menopausal skincare ingredient’.

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Didn’t get a chance to watch the Technical Seminars at in-cosmetics Virtual?

We’ve got you covered! You can now find them on-demand, right here.

So, what is discussed in a Technical Seminar? They are a variety of presentations, hosted by our in-cosmetics Virtual exhibitors, delivering an overview of key personal care ingredients; from understanding the benefits they provide to sharing scientific evidence that substantiates the claims associated with their products.

Seminars available:

Aprinnova presents: Go Circular! The new plant-based silica for color cosmetics

Greentech presents: Pollution-proof your hair & skin

Infinitec Activos presents: Meet the game-changer in skin-mitochondria therapy

Jojoba Desert presents: Innovative, sustainable practices for formulating natural oils

Lipotrue presents: Biohacking chronic bad sleep

Molinos Asociados presents: 100% Vegetable and Organic Texturizing Agent Alternative

Nagase presents: Boost skin wellness naturally by enhancing elasticity

Perfectus Biomed presents: Biofilms in personal care – Skin microbiome modelling

Provital presents: Growing health-consciousness boosts the need for self-care

Roelmi HPC presents: Go beyond microplastics … No more excuses

Schülke & Mayr presents: Natural product protection with a plus

Sharon Laboratories presents: Preservation for facial care & sensitive skin

Taiyo Kagaku presents: The boundless potential of performance-wise PGFEs

Interested in ingredients? Take a look at our latest ‘Ingredient round-up’ with Simon Pitman.