The shortlist for the 2024 in-cosmetics Asia Awards has been revealed following a record number of entries this year. Winners will be announced at the official in-cosmetics Asia Awards Ceremony on Tuesday 5 November in Bangkok, Thailand.

This year, 20 entries have been shortlisted from a total of 100, marking the highest number of submissions to date. Last year’s event featured 85 ingredients in the Innovation Zone, but the 2024 zone has seen a significant increase, with companies like Cargill, SEWA KASEI, Lubrizol, CLR Berlin, and Oat Cosmetics among the contenders.

This year’s shortlist was judged by an expert panel comprising experts from renowned companies such as L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble, Amorepacific, and more.

Judges from other in-cosmetics Group Award events do not participate in the judging of the in-cosmetics Asia Awards.

The shortlisted nominees for the Best Functional Ingredient category are:

• BRASCA with aIDRAWAX® REVO
• Elementis with BENTONE HYDROLUXE 360
• IOI Oleo GmbH with DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L
• Kaffe Bueno with KLEANSTANT®
• LESSONIA with ALTER-EMULGEL, a 100% natural and plant-based emulsifier
• Lubrizol with Novemer CS polymer
• Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant with Pickmulse
• Oleon with RADIASTAR 1436
• SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. with Vistanol GDHR-Pure
• Wilmar with WILSOL SPF BOOSTER

Shortlisted in the Best Active Ingredient category are:

• ALGAKTIV with ALGAKTIV® Densidyl
• CODIF TN with PANTODIUM CICA
• dsm-firmenich with ETERWELL YOUTH
• Givaudan Active Beauty with Neuroglow
• LipoTrue with DEEPSTRINE
• Provital, S.A. with SHILOXOME, an ecosystem for a multi-ome skin protection
• RAHN AG with ILLUMISCIN®-GLOW
• SILAB with COMMUSYS®
• Solabia Group with Serenibiome®
• Vytrus Biotech with BAOLIFT: Your Skin Workout

The awards will also celebrate the Spotlight On Formulation Award winners, featuring over 40 formulated personal care ingredients judged live at the show, as well as honour the 9 Faces of the APAC Beauty Industry. The 9 Faces initiative celebrates the innovators, changemakers, and unsung heroes who have significantly contributed to the region’s personal care sector.

Sarah Gibson, Event Director of in-cosmetics Asia, said: “We are so proud to announce this year’s shortlist for the in-cosmetics Asia Awards, drawn from a record number of 100 entries. The quality of submissions this year made it a very tight competition, and our expert judging panel faced a difficult task in selecting the finalists. It’s the innovative contributions from our exhibitors that make this event what it is, and without them, the industry wouldn’t have achieved such progress.

“We extend our congratulations to the shortlisted nominees and look forward to celebrating the winners, including the 9 Faces of the APAC Beauty Industry, as well as the Spotlight On Formulation Award winners, at the ceremony in Bangkok soon.”

For more information about the Awards, see here.

in-cosmetics Asia 2024 will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), in Bangkok, Thailand from 5-7 November 2024. The event will be co-located with COSMEX, ASEAN’s most comprehensive exhibition on manufacturing technologies, machinery, packaging, and ODM/OEM services for cosmetics, personal care, and dietary supplement products.

For more information and to register to attend in-cosmetics Asia, visit here.

ENDS

Notes to editors:
For further information please contact Olivia Evans or Frankie Banton at the in-cosmetics press office on 020 7240 2444 or in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk

About RX
RX is a global leader in events and exhibitions, leveraging industry expertise, data, and technology to build businesses for individuals, communities, and organisations. With a presence in 25 countries across 42 industry sectors, RX hosts approximately 350 events annually. RX is committed to creating an inclusive work environment for all our people. RX empowers businesses to thrive by leveraging data-driven insights and digital solutions. RX is part of RELX, a global provider of information-based analytics and decision tools for professional and business customers. For more information, visit www.rxglobal.com.

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This is a historic year for in-cosmetics Latin America! In 2024, the event will reach its 10th edition and will feature some new additions to surprise the attending public. Among them is the increase in exhibition space by 28% compared to 2023 (when it occupied an area of 5,546 m²), as well as the growth in the number of exhibitors.

The fair is recognized as one of the most important in the beauty and personal care sector, bringing together a diverse array of market players, from internationally recognized brands to new ones, for presentations of launches in technologies, actives, and raw materials, in addition to their portfolios of ingredients and solutions. In this sense, it also connects visiting professionals with upcoming market trends.

To ensure you have an unforgettable experience, we’ve prepared this guide with recommendations and information on how to organize your visit and make the most of your time and the attractions at the pavilion.

 1. Location

In-cosmetics Latin America takes place in Brazil, but it is an international event. The country is logistically strategic for bringing together professionals and brands from across Latin America and other regions.

São Paulo, where the fair is held, offers a full range of hospitality services to meet the diverse needs of those coming from outside the state or the country, including a variety of culinary options, leisure activities, and cultural experiences.

Regarding the region’s relationship with the market, it is worth highlighting the biodiversity of the continent, especially in Brazil, known for the characteristics of its biomes, which enable the development of research and inputs for the cosmetics sector.

2. Visitors from LATAM and Other States (Travel and Accommodation)

Each edition, the international fair welcomes attendees from different parts of Brazil, from Latin American countries, and from other continents. For those coming from afar to attend in-cosmetics Latin America 2024, here are some tips and conveniences to make the experience much more comfortable and safe.

RX Brasil offers a travel program. By taking advantage of it, you can obtain better rates on flights and hotels close to the Expo Center Norte pavilion, as well as receive assistance during your journey.

All benefits are possible thanks to the organizer’s partnership with a travel agency specialized in corporate travel, which offers services to optimize transportation and accommodation. For more information, click here.

3. The Website: Information about in-cosmetics

The event’s website is the main source for checking all the information related to the 10th edition of the fair, including the themes of the lectures, the list of exhibitors, and the awards.

Before your visit, it’s advisable to check in advance the topics and schedules of presentations, the location of stands, and create an agenda—these actions contribute to an even more complete and organized experience.

Information is available at https://www.in-cosmetics.com/latin-america/en.html

4. Registration and Connection with Exhibitors

On the website, you can also complete one of the main steps for visiting: registration.

RX, the organizer of in-cosmetics Latin America, offers free online registration for visitors, which speeds up entry and helps avoid long queues at the venue.

Moreover, early registration brings advantages for those looking for a personalized visit experience. This is because during the registration process, there is an option to connect with exhibitors and products of greater interest through “Matchmaking.”

This technology connects visiting professionals with brands, new launches, and items available at the event. By indicating areas of interest, each visitor receives recommendations from the system to organize an itinerary for one or two days of the fair.

The digital tool expands opportunities for business, partnerships, and allows for prior contact with industry players.

Professionals visiting in-cosmetics Latin America can also use the Collect technology. With this tool, each visitor has access to information about solutions and active ingredients presented at the event through an app that scans the QR code available on each exhibited product.

5. Attractions at in-cosmetics Latin America 2024

The event takes place over two days, and among the attractions, this edition will feature:

• Innovation Zone – showcases the latest launches from exhibitors.
• Testing and Regulation Area- where you can find regulatory specialists, laboratory equipment, and solutions for cosmetic testing.
• Marketing Trends – a space to follow trends and information on market research and data.

• Technical Seminars – offer content and updates related to actives, raw materials, and formulations that are transforming the sector.
• ABIHPEC Innovation Workshop – organized by the Brazilian Association of the Personal Hygiene, Perfumery, and Cosmetics Industry (ABIHPEC), it gathers market specialists to present initiatives and current topics of the industry. Access to the workshop is paid.
• Innovation Tour – a guided tour led by one of the in-cosmetics Latin America guest market experts, Cleber Barros, for R&D professionals from cosmetics manufacturers, third-party manufacturers, and private label brands to learn about launches, raw materials, and ingredient technologies.

The event also features three awards: Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards (which rewards the most innovative ingredient of the edition), The Green Ingredient Award (recognizes the ingredient that stands out in sustainability), and the ABIHPEC Innovation Award (highlights projects that contribute to innovation and increased competitiveness of the national beauty and personal care industry).

6. Transportation

During the two days of the fair, there will be a free shuttle service departing from Avenida Voluntários da Pátria next to the Portuguesa-Tietê Station (Metro Line 1 – Blue) to the pavilion (round trip).

For those driving their own vehicle (car or motorcycle), Expo Center Norte has a parking area. Information and rates are available at https://expocenternorte.com.br/.

7. Structure

Security, structure, and convenience are some of the organization’s pillars. Therefore, the pavilion will offer the following services:

– Internal food court;
– Medical clinic;
– Accessibility;
– Guide dogs allowed;
– Cloakroom;
– Public telephone;
– Taxi service;
– Information center;
– Security room.

8. Opportunities

By bringing together national and international players to present their product portfolios and solutions, in-cosmetics Latin America, in addition to being a space for market updates, also offers opportunities for networking, partnership development, and business. Make the most of it!

9. Questions

If you have any questions, RX offers the following contact channels:
Email: atendimentovisitante@rxglobal.com
Phone: +55 (11) 3060-4717

10. Venue, Date, and Time

in-cosmetics Latin America – September 25th and 26th, from 10 am to 7 pm.

Expo Center Norte – Rua José Bernardo Pinto, 333 – Vila Guilherme, São Paulo – SP, 02055-000

Register now at https://bit.ly/4bywMQp

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Trends in Colour Cosmetics

Tracking consumer trends in any category is like forecasting the weather: unpredictable and unreliable! Consumers move in mysterious ways today. While it’s always been true that for every trend there’s a counter trend, that’s never been truer than now!

Still, we continue to look for patterns, behavioural changes and indicators in many consumer categories that may tell us something about where beauty trends are headed.

Those of us who love tracking consumer behaviour will continue to do so. When we’re wrong, we hope no one notices!

What I’m reviewing here is not newly emerging. These directions have staying power and are, I believe, indicators worth exploring.

Colour Cosmetics + Skincare Ingredients

Makeup is increasingly linked to skincare. The demand for products that also demonstrate skin benefits like radiance, hydration, or UV and pollution protection are becoming essential. Foundation seems like the most logical place to start, but it doesn’t stop categories such as blush, brow gel and eye liner from jumping on board.
What we’re seeing is a creation of hybrid products that combine the artistry of makeup with the science of skin care.

Here are a few examples I believe are noteworthy:

Ciele Tint & PROTECT SPF 50+ Tinted Serum Foundation
Jones Road Miracle Balm All-Over Glow (this could also be added to the “Glow” list that follows)
Kosas Revealer Concealer
Chanel N°1 de Chanel Lip and Cheek Balm
Ilia Limitless Lash Mascara
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner
Valde Beauty Ritual Creamy Satin Lipstick
Kjaer Weis FeatherTouch Brow Gel

Glisten & Glow

While the pendulum may swing back and forth between radiant and matte, the fact remains, glowing skin is aspirational. Radiant skin looks healthier, younger, more energetic and vibrant. TikTok loves this category because of its powerful visual appeal and attraction.

The entries in this category are substantial. There are few brands without one. This is a random sampling.

RMS Beauty Luminizer The OG glow. It doesn’t get better than this!
Chanel Le Blanc Rosy Light Drops
Kosas Glow I.V. Vitamin-Infused Skin Illuminating Enhancer
Armani Beauty Fluid Sheer Glow Enhancer
Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter Sticks

Lash-Out with Colour! Coloured Mascara is having a moment!

Red, pink, yellow, purple, green or blue, lashes have never had such a rainbow of colors to choose from. Like hair color and nail lacquer, there is no limit on the color palette.
Pat McGrath Dark Star Colour Blitz Mascara: red, fuchsia, azure, jade
Kiko Milano Smart Colour Mascara: purple, emerald, bright blue, metallic burgundy
ColourPop BFF Volumizing Mascara: blue, red, green, purple, pink
Chanel Noir Allure: red, orange, lilac

Many brands have jumped in here: Chanel, Valde, Hermès, Fenty Beauty, Dries Van Noten, Hourglass, Dior, Kjaer Weis, Lush and Guerlain.
Anecdotal evidence from beauty influencers and consumer reviews suggests positive reception. Consumers appreciate the ability to reduce waste and often view refillable products as a luxury or premium option. However, I’m not hearing great reviews from suppliers on this topic. It can also be complicated for retailers, forcing them to carry additional inventory. From the few I’ve spoken with, sales are not robust.

As much as the concept feels like the right thing to do, carrying and displaying an expensive lipstick is part of our industry’s DNA. When the case starts to look shop-worn (and they all do after weeks or months in a bag), buying a refill to keep the original case out of landfill is probably unlikely.

The entire refill concept remains controversial. There are experts who say the refills only exacerbate the carbon footprint. The jury is still out.

Hot/Interesting Products

Milk MakeUp really scored on this one. Sticks are hot in all categories and their Cooling Water Jelly Sticks are playful, easy to use and very social media friendly. Lots of press and a quick sell-out!
Milk MakeUp Cooling Water Jelly Tint Sheer Lips & Cheek Stain

Lush Earth Naked Mascara launched last year with an interesting concept. A blend of butters and waxes are moulded into a solid form so no plastic packaging is required. The consumer wets one of the 3 brush choices (no plastic in the brush), twirls it inside the mascara “roll”, picks up the desired amount of product and applies it to lashes. It’s a new gesture that requires a bit of practice, but scores high for innovation.

For the colour crazy beauty consumer, there’s plenty of action and lots to choose from. New textures and delivery systems work their magic and adding a few skin friendly ingredients doesn’t hurt either.

Whether it’s for self-expression, confidence boosting, transformation, mental health “therapy” or just plain fun, there’s nothing that beats make up for a feel-good vibe!

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Launching a new beauty brand is exhilarating yet challenging and whether you are a startup or a longstanding corporation the foundational process of brand development is important. This journey is no simple feat, yet if executed correctly, the results can bring success over the long run.

Drawing from experience in marketing product development and brand strategy, especially within the startup realm, it is clear that there’s a common tendency to rush towards the endpoint of success without properly laying down the groundwork from the start.

This article explores the process of aligning messaging and branding with products, using case studies of two diverse brands. These brands, though rooted in trending lifestyle, ingredients, and performance, faced challenges in communicating their intentions effectively to the consumer.

By incorporating key points into your messaging and branding strategies, you can effectively align products with the brand’s identity and connect with consumers at a more engaging level.

Case #1: Crafting a Compelling Brand Story for Mass Market Bath Products

Overview:

Creating a successful mass-market self-care collection involves more than just assembling products with a beautiful design and componentry. The collection necessitates a compelling backstory and concept to distinguish itself in a competitive market. Crafting a strong narrative with engaging stories for products, effectively helps brands connect with consumers.

Problem:

Despite offering a variety of bath product collections with appealing designs, Bath At Work (fictitious name) wanted to stand out on mass market retail shelves. Additionally, the brand sought to align with current wellness lifestyle trends. The setback was that the brand lacked a compelling narrative to captivate consumers interested in this lifestyle.

Solution:

To address these challenges, a comprehensive narrative was crafted. The bath collection stories highlighted the products and their usage through creating a personalized regimen.

• As a result, Bath at Work spoke specifically to the experience of product use and time of day to use each product including directions for specialized regimens.
• Ingredients were combined as blends throughout the collections to offer a “theme” supportive of wellbeing.
• The names of the collections were updated and categorized to speak more personally to the user and designed to communicate an enhancement of overall well-being with themes like “Good Night – Sweet Dreams” and “Wake-Up – It’s a New Day”.
• Additionally, Bath at Work prioritized sustainability by minimizing packaging waste and utilizing eco-friendly materials.

Case #1 learnings

Incorporating product benefits and personalization into a compelling narrative is crucial for creating a unique brand identity that resonates with consumers, especially in mass market. Brands can effectively differentiate themselves by highlighting experiential product usage and integrating themes that promote a specific lifestyle,

Case #2: Streamlining Brand Messaging for Clarity

Overview:

In the highly competitive market of today, many brands struggle to effectively convey their unique brand message. Despite having captivating backstories and diverse product lines designed to appeal to a wide range of consumers, brands often find it challenging to stand out amidst the overwhelming amount of messaging that they hope to communicate to their audience.

Problem:

“Elevate Well“ (fictitious name) faced challenges in effectively communicating the unique benefits of its brand and products to various consumer segments. Despite highlighting holistic ingredients, superior product performance, engaging experiential product use, clinical claims, and the founder’s expertise, the brand struggled to convey a clear message about its true offerings and its distinct position in the market.

Solution:

1. A thorough competitive research analysis was conducted to determine the brand’s positioning and product pricing relative to similar brands in the market.

• This research yielded valuable insights, identifying multiple areas for improving communication and whitespace opportunities where the brand could differentiate itself and connect more deeply with its target audience.
• The research also highlighted that the hero product had room for a price increase communicating the high-end value of the product and its positioning, placing it in-line with the competition.

2. Development of a brand deck, served as a comprehensive guide for maintaining consistent messaging across all social media platforms.

• This ensured that every communication channel, including social media and traditional marketing channels, conveyed a unified message about the brand.
• The target markets were clearly defined and supported by products and claims for those targets.

3. Focus on lifestyle and ingredient components created compelling and clearly defined product benefits per SKU.

• This messaging not only highlighted the brand’s wellbeing mission statement but also emphasized the essence and performance of the product experience in use.
• The ingredients and clinical claims were teased out and highlighted for consumers to visually evaluate product performance before purchase.

4. A strategic marketing calendar was crafted for “Elevate Well” to ensure consistent communication with users.

• By emphasizing clear and consistent communication going forward, the brand strengthened its connections with the audience. This approach also provided the marketing team with a clear snapshot of value-added opportunities for their customers throughout the year.

5. A revamp of the website and new visuals better highlighted the brand’s story and product offerings, improving user experience and driving engagement.

• Low-selling products were strategically removed from the site and the brand to streamline the product lineup and focus on core offerings, maximizing consumer appeal.
• A new brand icon was designed highlighting all of the benefits of the brand in one view and was utilized on the site offering a quick view image that communicates the brand positioning and product performance.

Learnings Case #2

Highlighting the challenges brands encounter in clearly communicating their unique value propositions amidst a crowded marketplace may require time and effort, but it is worthwhile.

Through meticulous research and strategic refinement, a brand with multiple messages can successfully streamline its communications, thereby enhancing credibility, trust, and targeted consumer appeal.

Both cases underscore the importance of prioritizing clarity, consistency, and differentiation in brand messaging and product development. By aligning these elements with consumer preferences and market trends, beauty brands can position themselves for long-term success and forge deeper connections with their target audience.

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Despite the ever present concern about the economy, American beauty consumers are spending more. They are spending more on prestige products and trading up. There’s a significant “premiumization” of what would normally be considered commodity products:  toothpaste (Aurezzi toothpaste & mouthwash $39 each), deodorants (LeLabo for $37) and household cleaning products.

Dr. Barbara Sturm, DedCool and Bath & Body Works are recent entries in this category. Unilever’s Dove just launched a collection of Plant Based Cleansing Bars in the premium space providing “a new standard for what consumers should expect from a premium bar—an elevated sensorial experience.” As the US accounts for about 25% of the global beauty market, what happens here is important to monitor.

Looking at a few numbers from 2023 (according to Circana), prestige beauty grew 14% to $31.7 billion.  The mass market gained 6%.  In general product categories, lip oils are strong, as is hand soap and scalp care.  Prestige fragrance grew 12% in a small, but star category. Prestige haircare grew 14%. Total US beauty grew 11% on a dollar basis.

Ironically, despite the strength of the prestige market, dupes remain important and compelling. While years ago the “copy” category stayed out of the lime light, brands today shout out their efforts and love flaunting their success stories on social media. E.L.F. has proudly made a name for itself in this category, providing quality “copies” of trending products for a fraction of the retail price.

Large beauty brands continue to search for acquisition opportunities that allow them to move into new spaces and find new customers. There have been several noteworthy acquisitions in recent months:

• Bridgepoint Capital purchased RoC Skincare.
• Shiseido purchased Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.
• E.L.F. Beauty purchased Naturium Skincare.
• Unilever acquired premium biotech hair care brand K18.
• Puig acquired Dr. Barbara Sturm Skincare.

While Bricks and Mortar retail is still recovering from Covid, finding its way back to health and trying to sort out how to improve the beauty consumer’s in-store experience, the category is showing signs of life.  It remains 75-85% (depending on the category) of the beauty business, a number we often forget with the double digit growth of online shopping in recent years (ecommerce in beauty grew 13.6% in 2023 according to Insider Intelligence).

We know brands perform better and sell more product when they are present in both channels:  online and in-store. For brands to really scale and build brand awareness, that Bricks and Mortar presence is crucial. Technology and AI are moving as fast as they can in the beauty category, but nothing compares to the experience of trying on a red lipstick or spritzing a fragrance in real life!

Social Media and influencers that populate it are major drivers in the US beauty landscape.  Two thirds of beauty shoppers say they turn to influencers to discover new products (Harvard Business School). One-third of beauty consumers interact with brands on social media.(Social Samosa). Four out of five beauty shoppers use Instagram daily (Harvard Business School).  Despite the controversy, the lack of regulatory oversight, and the constantly shifting landscape, the importance of this category in the beauty world cannot be overestimated.

Here’s a quick overview of some of the beauty trends that will impact consumer spending in the category in the US this year:

• The focus on sustainability is here to stay, but consumers won’t pay extra for it (despite what they say).
• Efficacy trumps “clean”. Science is critical and consumers recognize that.
• Premiumization in every category is happening. Despite concerns about the economy (and all the other worries consumers are tracking), beauty is an affordable luxury and a brief escape into self-indulgence.
• Hair and scalp care, niche fragrances, supplements and sexual wellness are categories of potential solid growth.

US consumers have started 2024 over indexing their spending on tech and devices and health and wellness. The beauty industry fits nicely into the second category.  We’re working on it, but we need to up our game in technology.  There’s a lot of it creeping into beauty, but most of it is clunky and awkward.  Lots of room for improvement here.

Our industry is off to a solid start in 2024. We have trained beauty consumers to be constantly on the alert for newness, innovation and bright shiny objects that may be little more than a facelift. The year is just getting started, but there appears to be a substantial quantity of all of these on the beauty horizon. I’m optimistic. Keep the young, upstart brands coming and the established, legacy brands re-inventing themselves. Let retailers continue to create new “experiences” to entice us inside. Who knows where social media will lead us next.  Yes, I’m optimistic.

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A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away… The Star Wars series tells the story of the Skywalker family, who are able to perceive and use “The Force”, which allows them to develop abilities such as telekinesis, clairvoyance and mind control, among others.

R2-D2 is one of the most famous robots in the world and one of the most peculiar characters in the series. We have seen it in 10 of the 11 Star Wars movies. R2-D2 stands for Second Generation Robotic Droid Series-2, according to a Star Wars encyclopaedia published after the film’s premiere. This robot’s function is technical, as it can repair any part of the ship, assist as a navigator and also provide valuable information on many probability data in the missions.

In 2024, we are seeing robots begin to take centre stage in many types of industries. I recently read an article published by the computerhoy.com portal which inspired me to write this column.

It was recently announced that humanoid robots have just signed a contract to work in BMW factories. This has been the first contract with humanoid robots in history. The article mentions that “the general purpose robot Figure 01 is 170 cm tall, has a payload capacity of about 20 kilos, weighs 60 kilos and has a range of up to 5 hours. It walks at a speed of 1.2 m/s. Its distinctive feature is that it does not work by programmed commands. It has a “ChatGPT” in its head, and thanks to artificial intelligence it is able to learn tasks, simply by watching explanatory videos”. The article also mentions that the robot can learn other activities on its own.

Robotics is also starting to set trends in cosmetics.

Last year, the magazine Cosmetics and Toiletries published an article on the subject, mentioning that AI and robots are helping to develop patents and beauty products. Some of the activities they can be programmed to do include preparing samples for hair fiber product efficacy analysis, as well as robots that wash, condition and dry hair to test formulations.

One application of AI is related to the optimisation of experimental designs for the development of make-up shades. The publication also mentions something very interesting: “robots do not replace jobs, but their function is to condense massive amounts of data to create consistency in samples and testing”.

Cobots = collaborative robots. Cobots are on the rise in medicine and cosmetics. The universal-robots.com portal indicates that: “As the life cycles of medical and cosmetic products shorten, collaborative automation brings agility to manufacturing. Robotic arms can be used to maximize production and ensure consistent quality, and can then be quickly redeployed for new product lines.

Cobots are used throughout the industry to manipulate machines and conveyor belts, assemble devices and products with precision, and package items in blisters, cartons or pallets. Cobots help you reduce the risk of human contamination in delicate processes and clean environments as they can be used for the handling and assembly of sterile products and medical devices or implants. Cobots can also free workers from material handling tasks in operations that can be risky because they generate a lot of dust, noise and high vibration, allowing them to move on to higher value tasks”.

The new R2-D2s at the service of cosmetics in 2024 are integrated with artificial intelligence to optimize beauty services. In some cities, we see, for example, robotic arms specialized in placing eyelashes and applying nail polish, achieving innovative designs in the nail-art trend. In this regard, the luxurylashacademy.com portal indicates that: “while artificial intelligence robots are advancing in the beauty industry, fears of being replaced by machines are alleviated by understanding that these technologies are designed to complement, not replace, the skills and artistry of lash artists. The beauty industry thrives on human creativity, and the personal touch that lash artists bring to their work is something that machines cannot replicate.”

In Star Wars, we saw that the Trade Federation was a transport and interstellar trade conglomerate during the last years of the Galactic Republic, so powerful that it had its own representatives in the Galactic Senate.

In 2024, we are seeing the potential contributions of the International Federation of Robotics (IFR) ifr.org/association to cosmetics. The website states that: “the International Federation of Robotics connects the world of robotics around the globe”, and its objectives include: “to promote the positive benefits of robots for productivity, competitiveness, economic growth and quality of work and life” and “to promote research, development, use and international co-operation in the entire field of robotics”, among others.

Surely, we will soon start to see partnerships between the industry, the cosmetics academy and this kind of organization to generate innovations never seen before in the pursuit of beauty.

In February 2024, we saw a surprising news story: we met a bipedal robot with muscle tissue that can walk, stop and turn. A team of Japanese researchers created a biohybrid robot, made mainly of silicone rubber and strips of skeletal muscle tissue cultured in the laboratory, that mimics human gait and works in water.

Biohybrid robots will be protagonists in the near future in cosmetics by participating as “volunteers” in cosmetic efficacy tests. Thanks to their biohybrid composition, cosmetic testing robots will have a dermal and muscular composition similar to humans, so that companies will be able to test multiple products on the same individual, carrying out efficacy studies of active ingredients for skincare and pre-selection of formulas before starting final tests in humans.

Biomimetic robots are also an interesting concept because they imitate the shape and movement of living beings. These robots could be more efficient and adaptable to complex environments. Robots will be used to perform irritation, allergy and efficacy tests of cosmetic products quickly and efficiently. This will reduce the need for animal testing and contribute to a more ethical cosmetics industry.

Skin diagnosis is another interesting chapter in this trend. This year we will see how robots with AI will be able to diagnose skin problems and recommend personalized products for their treatment.

• Application of cosmetics: Robots will be able to apply cosmetics precisely and uniformly, even in hard-to-reach areas.
• Shopping experience: Robots will be used in cosmetics stores to help customers find the right products and offer personalized advice.
• Mega-personalization: Robots will be able to analyze the customer’s skin type, tone, specific needs and preferences through sensors, scanners and AI. With this information, they will be able to create personalized cosmetic products with exact ingredients and quantities for each person. This will allow for greater product effectiveness and a better customer experience.
• Augmented reality boom: Robots will be able to show customers how they would look with different cosmetic products from various categories before purchasing them. This will help them make more informed and confident purchasing decisions.

Robots could be used to develop new cosmetic ingredients with specific properties. In the area of ​​quality, robots can be used to perform more precise and efficient quality control of cosmetic products. On the other hand, robots could be used to create more personalized and effective marketing and advertising campaigns.

This is the way… robotics have the potential to revolutionize the cosmetics industry in 2024. Princess Leia would surely be surprised to see how robots can offer customers accurate diagnoses, personalized products, new forms of application, shopping experiences more personalized and more sustainable production. Robotic cosmetics is one of the great drivers of innovation in our industry this year.

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Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi), China’s choice sourcing platform for the global personal care industry, is poised for record-breaking participation for its 2024 edition. Scheduled to be held from 20-22 March 2024 at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center, PCHi 2024 promises to be a pivotal event in the industry, offering attendees an all-encompassing experience steeped in innovation and opportunity.

Embracing the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI)

Against the backdrop of the 10th anniversary of China’s Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), PCHi recognizes the initiative’s profound impact on global economic cooperation. Expanding collaborations beyond the Eurasian continent to encompass Africa and Latin America, the BRI has evolved into a platform for international economic growth and development. China, as the world’s second-largest economy and cosmetics market, plays an integral role in propelling global economic expansion.

China’s cosmetics industry, a formidable force in its own right, continues to manifest robust growth. With a population of 1.4 billion and sustained economic development, the Chinese cosmetics market is witnessing a consistent rise in domestic consumption. Projections indicate a substantial year-on-year growth rate of 6.4%, with the market size expected to reach approximately 516.9 billion yuan by 2023.

Unprecedented Participation and Global Engagement

In the context of this dynamic industry landscape, PCHi 2024 is poised to host an unprecedented number of exhibitors, surpassing the benchmarks set by previous editions. Of the 750 participating companies, about forty percent are international cosmetic ingredient providers. A list of participating exhibitors at PCHi 2024 can be found at PCHi2024 Exhibitor List (until 30th November 2023).

Attendees can anticipate a diverse array of innovative and engaging feature areas designed to elevate their event experience. Some of the highlighted feature areas include:

• New Product Showcase (NPS): This feature highlights over 30 of the latest offerings from exhibitors, including several global debuts. Visitors can expect a quick overview of cutting-edge ingredients that have the potential to distinguish their new finished products in a competitive market. Participating exhibitors can be found here.

• New Technology Sessions (NTS): A prominent platform for exhibitors to present groundbreaking research and technologies underpinning the industry’s latest developments, the 2024 edition will feature close to 40 presentations by both domestic and international exhibitors over three days. Participating exhibitors can be found here.

• PCHi Sustainability Zone: As part of PCHi’s commitment to promoting sustainability, this feature area will spotlight the dedicated efforts of various exhibitors toward sustainable development, including a forum for exhibitors to detail how they’ve incorporated sustainability in their products, services, and business practices.

• Testing and Laboratory Zone: In collaboration with the Shanghai Society of Toxicology, the area will feature over 60 products and technologies designed to address regulatory and end-user expectations concerning cosmetic product safety. Participating exhibitors can be found here.

• Beauté Gourmet: An experiential zone bringing together exhibitors with products designed to enhance beauty from within, visitors can look forward to trying out some of the innovative products that promote ingestible beauty through a holistic approach.

• Country Days: With sessions focused on the UK, France, and South Korea, these exclusive conference sessions will offer insights into the latest developments and trends for cosmetic ingredients in these markets, and offer industry players networking opportunities beyond the show floor.

Visa-free! Pre-register Now for PCHi 2024

From 1 December 2023, citizens of France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, and Malaysia will be able to enter China without a visa for up to 15 days. This brings the list of countries with 15-day visa-free travel to China to eight, while the list of countries with 144-hour visa-free transit currently includes 54 nations.

Trade professionals planning to attend the event in Shanghai are encouraged to pre-register online for complimentary access: https://y.m.cn/0Mv8. Visitors looking for Visa application information can request for assistance at bj@burnaby.com.

For more information about PCHi 2024, please visit www.pchi-china.com/en, or connect with PCHi on social media.

About PCHi

The Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show is China’s #1 Sourcing Platform for the Global Personal Care Industry. As an innovation-led event, PCHi provides cosmetics, home and personal care manufacturers, ingredients suppliers, cosmetics packaging, machinery and product testing providers from all over the world with a quality platform for ingredients sourcing, gaining insight into global trends, and networking with world-class experts.

Visit www.pchi-china.com/en or connect with PCHi on social media for regular updates.

LinkedIn    www.linkedin.com/company/PCHiChina
Instagram www.instagram.com/PCHi_China  
Facebook  www.facebook.com/PCHiExpo
YouTube   www.youtube.com/user/PCHiExpo

As we approach 2024, it is interesting to review what trends will impact the cosmetics industry. The global cosmetics market was worth close to U$343 billion in 2023 and has a projected CAGR of 5.2% for the period 2024-2032.

Overall, the coming year will be marked by an unprecedented rise of smart machines, such that Artificial Intelligence (AI) will become part of everyday life and virtually no industry will be alien to it. Climate change will continue to affect society and science will continue to put enormous efforts into studying it and how to control its consequences.

On the other hand, remote and hybrid work remains at high levels compared to the pre-pandemic, which means that many people feel increasingly lonely, which is why the World Health Organization announced an initiative to address what it calls the new global epidemic: loneliness. The WHO stated that this problem did not begin with the covid-19 pandemic, but that it did worsen to the extent that one in four adults experience social isolation. The WHO has also indicated that the greatest global health risk by 2030 will be depression, not obesity. For this reason, wellness concepts will be at the forefront of cosmetics by 2024. Here are some of the trends that I believe will be the key players for the coming year.

• Chatbots & Chatbeauty: Artificial Intelligence (AI) is advancing by leaps and bounds. This is why in 2024 we will see an unprecedented boom in the development of chatbots for all types of industries, which will allow instant and personalised attention. In our industry, we will see brands launch chatbots with catchy names that will be able to handle product, ingredient and technical queries from formulators. Very soon it will be a reality to interact with chatbots that will aid the cosmetic formulation process. Virtual avatars created to assist in the purchasing and technical support process will also be on the rise in 2024.

• Biocoating: The food industry is making great strides in the development of coatings made from environmentally friendly materials to wrap and protect products. The cosmetics industry is beginning to take inspiration from materials used in food protection to develop new packaging materials. Waste from the sugar cane industry and products obtained from micro-organisms and plant species are emerging as new sources of innovation.

• Hygiene boom: The global hygiene market was worth U$515 billion in 2022 and is projected to be worth U$727 billion by 2032 at an estimated CAGR of 3.9% during this period. In 2024 we will see a boom in hygiene products aligned with wellness benefits. Aromatherapy will therefore be a key player in the development of new concepts in this category. We will also see market opportunities for luxury brands in hygiene and new proposals in the great universe of inclusion and diversity. Mood boosting will be an important claim in this category.

• Retrobiology: This is one of the most fascinating trends for 2024. Permafrost is a permanently frozen layer of soil in very cold or glaciated regions, formed by a combination of soil, rock, sand and other minerals that remain bound by ice. In the uppermost layers, it contains large amounts of organic carbon and remains of animals and plants that have not fully decomposed due to low temperatures. Due to global warming, this layer is melting, exposing well-preserved, extinct animal and plant remains from thousands of years ago, as well as new species that were unknown to science. In October 2023 we witnessed an unprecedented scientific breakthrough: a group of scientists managed to awaken an animal that had been hibernating for 45,000 years. Cryptobiosis is a process that puts the metabolism of living extremophile organisms into suspension, so that they can remain dormant for hundreds of years. Therefore, we will see the development of cosmetic technology coming from new biological species, such as micro-organisms, bacteria, algae and ferments. The concept of inspiration from extinct species is already starting to become a reality in cosmetic products. In October 2023 we saw a disruptive launch from a beauty and biotech company that introduced a new fragrance brand consisting of six perfumes, each derived from the sequenced DNA of extinct flowers. The concept is to revive scents lost in time. So, in 2024 we will see innovations and claims related to cryptobiosis-like, cryptobiosis inspired and extinct-inspired.

• Robots in retail: The Analytics Insight portal made an interesting publication on this topic in November 2023. The aim is to improve the customer experience. The rise of robots in retail has several objectives, such as creating better automated payment systems, optimizing inventory management, providing customer assistance by helping to locate products and guidance, assisting in cleaning and maintenance of shops and retail spaces, providing personalized recommendations, optimizing virtual testing, among others.

• Food inspiration: Lab-synthesized foods are a reality and are just around the corner in 2024. Advances in this field and the application of 3D printing in food will enable new applications in the cosmetics industry, for example biosynthesized and vegan animal proteins, dairy and egg whites of microbial origin synthesized from proteins produced by strains of bacteria, yeast and other recombinant or genetically modified micro-organisms, in whose genetic material the genes responsible for the production of certain animal proteins and other biomolecules present in foods, such as casein and beta-lactoglobulin (whey protein), egg white ovalbumin or muscle myoglobin, have been inserted. One company recently announced that it uses genetically programmed strains of the Trichoderma reesei fungus to produce whey proteins to make its vegan dairy products and ice cream. We will also see a boom in fancy and healthy sweets and desserts.

• Hyper-shine: After a year of many economic, social, health and peace difficulties, consumers have a deep desire for peace of mind. Therefore, claims related to radiance, luminosity, gloss, shine, brightness and glitter will be on the rise in 2024. Shiny is the new black.

• Diversity & Inclusion: The cosmetics industry has a great challenge to be more inclusive and therefore, new market segments, in some cases niches, that were previously not served by the cosmetics industry will be protagonists. Beauty is a universal right and inclusion is a vast universe where cosmetics has many opportunities for innovation.

• Wellness-driven beauty: Predictions indicate that consumers are beginning to prioritize holistic lifestyles, which is why wellness is emerging as one of the most important sources of innovation for 2024, as people are better understanding that the balance of mind-brain connections is reflected in better skin condition and appearance. Self-care is the new player in cosmetics and is emerging as a new global macro-trend.

• Synthetic biology boom: It is defined as the synthesis of biomolecules or engineering of biological systems with new functions that are not found in nature. It is a discipline that, unlike biology, is not based on the study of living beings, but instead tries to redesign biological systems that already exist in nature. Synthetic biology creates new programmable organisms, that is, it creates on-demand microorganisms with specific functions. In 2024 we will see advances in biological circuits to control and regulate cellular behavior. This involves the creation of complex systems that imitate the logic and functionality of electronic circuits in living cells, which will allow the synthesis and discovery of new molecules and systems with very high anti-aging efficacy profiles.

• Skin bioremediation: Research is currently exploring the ability of synthetic biology to develop products that aid in skin repair and regeneration, including the treatment of scars, wrinkles or even specific dermatological problems.

The trends for 2024 are very exciting and the cosmetics industry has always shown resilience, creativity and a lot of innovation, especially in difficult times. Understanding trends and consumer needs are key to innovation.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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Hair oils have traditionally been used to soften and strengthen hair, even when applied to the scalp.

Globally, when talking about hair health, the conversation has moved towards the scalp.

Consumers are now recognising that the scalp should be nurtured in a similar way to facial skin and can play an important step in impacting hair health. Thus, hair oils can be a natural part of the conversation surrounding scalp health.

India is considered the market leader in the hair oil category based on launch activity over the last five years¹ and on average, Indian consumers use at least three types of hair oils according to Mintel research.²

With 52% of Indian consumers saying that they would be interested in hair oils that specifically target certain hair concerns like oily and sweaty scalp, it is time for brands to rethink how they market hair oils.

Four in five hair oil launches in India carry a botanical/herbal claim³ but there are upcoming brands, which are innovating with beauty trends such as clean beauty and scalp care. To help make hair oils more attractive to consumers, brands can also make convenience claims such as easy-to-use packaging and easy-to-wash-off.

Brands can look at enhancing usage, especially in these times when there is growing market interest in scalp health by tapping into specialised solutions considering that 42% of Indian consumers are interested in hair oils that specifically target scalp conditions.

The USP of hair oils has always been to make hair healthy with less focus on how it affects the scalp but considering that the top 3 concerns of Indian consumers are thinning hair (38%), sweaty scalp (33%) and oily scalp (33%), there is an opportunity for brands to bridge the gap between hair care and scalp care.

Indian consumers are open to new beauty experiences with 42% saying they enjoy discovering new beauty and grooming products and 36% saying they bought a new beauty product they hadn’t tried in the past three months. About 31% of Indian consumers say they have engaged with online beauty content in the last three months.⁴

Because of global warming, soaring temperatures have been recorded around the world. In 2022, India had one of its worst heat waves during the summer months with some states experiencing temperatures above 43°C (110°F).⁵

The heat leads to bacteria accumulation, which worsens skin and scalp problems. Nearly three-fourths (74%) of Indian consumers say they experience scalp concerns, while 96% have hair concerns and this is an indication that shoppers now perceive scalp problems as important.⁶

Brands can offer ease of use as a USP in their hair oils. Mintel research reveals that the two biggest barriers to using hair oils are that it is difficult to wash off from the scalp/hair and it is difficult to carry when travelling (37%, respectively).⁷

Strategies for Brands in the Evolving Hair Oil Market

Hair oils in India currently focus on giving overall hair strength and preventing hair fall but there is an opportunity for them to address other concerns like oily scalp, sweaty scalp, and dandruff.

There is also an opportunity for brands to explore customisation as this is something that customers want.

Brands can also focus on clean beauty as good health is an important consideration for consumers. There’s an opportunity to target men living in metro areas. Currently, 11% of them believe that using shampoo/conditioner is enough for hair care. However, they also demonstrate a strong interest in clean beauty claims like organic (39%), which hair oils can offer.

Another avenue that brands may explore is ease of use. Consumers are very concerned about hair oils being heavy so brands can look at lighter and serum-like finishes that people can use during the day, even in summer months, and are easy to wash off.

More importantly, brands need to strengthen communication on the effects of oiling on the scalp and how this will contribute to hair health.

Author:

Tanya Rajani, Principal Analyst, Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel Reports India

References:

1 Mintel Global New Products Database, March 2019 – February 2023
2,3 Mintel Reports India, Hair Oils, 2022
4 Mintel Global Consumer, Beauty, Personal Care & Household, March 2022
5 MIT Technology Review, “Climate change is making India’s brutal heat waves worse”, April 2022
6 Mintel Reports India, Shampoo & Conditioner, 2021
7 Mintel Reports India, Hair Oils, 2021

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“The goal of marketing is to know and understand the customer so well that the product or service sells itself.” This quote from Peter Drucker inspired me to write this column. Drucker (1909-2005) was an Austrian business consultant and professor, writer and lawyer, considered the greatest management philosopher of the 20th century. He was the author of more than 35 books, and his ideas were decisive in the creation of the Modern Corporation. Drucker wrote multiple world-renowned works on topics related to the management of organizations, information systems and the knowledge society.

We live in the post-pandemic era and we are discovering the big changes in consumer behavior. Understanding these new features implies a significant challenge for companies and also brings great opportunities. Companies that can quickly adapt to these new dynamics will have an essential competitive advantage over others. For this, it is essential to know how the pandemic has influenced human behaviour. Next, we will see some examples of the characteristics of new consumers.

• Digital Mature: The pandemic accelerated the evolution of most of our actions to the online world. Brands experienced an increase in electronic purchases, in fact, it is estimated that electronic commerce advanced more than 10 years in just 90 days. The diversification of contact channels also advanced by giant steps, for example, it is estimated that in 2020 a third of customers contacted companies for the first time by message. Digital maturity continues and cosmetic companies have a great opportunity to continue offering digital innovations and experiences.

• Electronic Payment Lovers: We all have the experience of not wanting to touch physical money in the pandemic and after having to do so, we immediately reached for alcohol or washed our hands. The replacement of cash by electronic or digital means of payment is here to stay.

• Activist Consumer: Their objective is that the product they buy not only covers a need, but that both its production and its purchase are aligned with values, for example, environmental protection or the use of sustainable materials. Inclusion and respect for differences are highly valued by the new consumer in the cosmetic field.

• Intolerant of Waiting: New consumers have high expectations of fast and efficient services. Brands are creating and implementing new agile and secure service strategies. We see very interesting innovations thanks to artificial intelligence, such as chatbots. There are statistics that indicate that 32% of users who contact a brand through social networks expect a response in less than 30 minutes. Agility is the new black.

• Personalized Consumers: Today’s consumers value individuality and personalization. They want products and services tailored to their specific needs and preferences. Advances in technology, such as artificial intelligence and machine learning, have allowed companies to collect data and offer personalized experiences to their customers. These people appreciate attention to detail and expect unique treatment.

• Skeptical Consumer: They do not particularly enjoy the act of buying, so their decision will be very thoughtful and will require extensive prior research before opting for a product. They are people who read the labels, ingredient lists and look for comments (positive and negative) that users make on social networks. They investigate the meaning of ingredients, biochemical mechanisms, and cosmetic and dermatological terms on social networks.

• Optimistic Consumer: They trust that the purchase of a certain product will have a positive impact on their quality of life. They tend to seek balance in value for money, so they search and compare the available information before making a purchase. They are passionate about cosmetic brands, know and have experienced the benefits that the products offer them.

• The Fighters: These are those consumers who experienced financial insecurity during the pandemic and which continues today. In many countries there has been a boom in low-cost stores and white labels in the main supermarket stores, which are aimed at this segment.

• The Recovered: They are the consumers who suffered this same financial insecurity during the years of the pandemic but have returned to normality. They are characterized because they are now more cautious and careful with spending. Cosmetic products focused on “new luxury” concepts are ideal for these consumers.

• The Stable: These are the people who had no impact on their finances during the pandemic and have continued spending as usual. They are brand loyal and always eager to try new releases and benefits.

• The Prosperous: These are the consumers who saved money during the pandemic period and feel more financially secure than before the start of the pandemic.

• Experiential Consumers: Rather than simply purchasing products, many consumers seek unique and memorable experiences. This type of consumer values ​​experiences, such as trips, events, recreational activities, and gourmet meals. Millennials and Gen Z are especially prone to prioritizing experiences over acquiring material goods. On the other hand, the vast majority of consumers of cosmetic products are demanding new experiences and it is precisely in multi-sensory activation where cosmetic companies have great opportunities for innovation.

• Impulsive: As its name indicates, this type of consumer buys on impulse, unexpectedly and without prior notice. For example, when they are in line to pay at the supermarket checkout and take an additional product. They are consumers who are aware of the latest launches of cosmetic brands, they are the first to try new aromatic profiles in fragrances and new benefits and claims in skincare, personal care and makeup products.

• Kidults: The portal mercadonegro.pe presents an interesting definition of these consumers: “To be eternally children. Continuing to behave in some way like children is an increasingly popular way of coping with adult life. This segment is closely linked to being independent and authentic. The progressive disappearance of the stigma on child behavior in adults has contributed to this. In May 2022, a group that included former Disney CEO Bob Iger invested $263 million in Funko, a maker of dolls for adults. In addition, this lifestyle goes hand in hand with spontaneous and informal enjoyment without giving up the maturity that characterizes this stage of life. This way they can enjoy the best of both worlds at the same time, both being spontaneous and being more rational”.

• MaxMix: Extremes, very extremes, meet. The same previous portal explains this consumer like this: “Creativity and innovation have always had to do with the ability to combine things. Ideas, styles, flavors, but never like now. These mixes had been so extreme that they hadn’t even been that popular. We talk about mixing the old with the new, the luxurious with the popular, royalty with fast fashion, the expensive with the cheap. A combination of extremes that until now seemed impossible or dissonant, but that currently not only attract, but also work and are adopted by actors, models, singers and, of course, influencers. Royalty dresses in Zara and reggaeton singers in Gucci.” Without a doubt, a great inspiration for cosmetic brands.

• Comparative: Consumers who have this behavior are usually influenced by the price and features of the product or service. That is why they compare the same products that are from different brands to choose the one that best suits their needs.

Katherine Barchetti said: “Make a customer, not a sale.” Philip Kotler said: “If you create a romance with your clients, they will advertise you for themselves.” New cosmetic consumers are characterized by having a profile, being active, sharing their opinion on social networks, demanding benefits,  quality and results and can also easily follow or abandon the brands they consume.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS