As we explore haircare in the Asia Pacific region, our Indonesia expert puts the spotlight on Indonesia…

Indonesia Outlook for Haircare

As a science that studies how to care for hair and scalp, to choose cosmetics according to hair type, climate and treatment techniques, the sector’s beauty experts recommend ways to treat hair, which are grouped into (1) daily haircare by washing hair using shampoo, conditioner, and dry treatment, (2) periodic care with cream baths and masks, (3) Special treatment for hair after straightening (keratin).

In response to hair problems and current trends, Indonesian salon services are proliferating and focusing, starting from basic treatments such as haircuts, cream baths, hair masks, and hair colouring to straightening and extensions.

The increasing variety of salon services and professional products for haircare in Indonesia is predicted to drive the market until 2028. However, the high price of services and haircare products is a major issue in this industry.

As is the case globally, more and more Indonesian consumers are learning how to take care of their hair with online tutorials and the help of influencers. Google noted a surge in searches for haircare activities throughout 2022.

‘Dry hair’ ranks first with an increase of up to 70% vs last year on YouTube. Second, you’ll find ‘dandruff’ with a 60% increase on YouTube, too followed by ‘hair spray’ (+20% year on year) on Google. Fourth was keratin with a 20% rise on Google.

Haircare Search Trends on Google and YouTube to Rise in 2022, What to Look Out for? (Katadata, 2022)

2023 Haircare Developments in Indonesia

 The Indonesian haircare market is experiencing remarkable growth, a phenomenon driven by increasing consumer awareness and spending on personal grooming products.

Rising significantly is the number of haircare products ranging from traditional herbal-based treatments to more technologically advanced products. Examples range from old school aloe vera plant to get its benefit but nowadays consumers tend to look for some technology including encapsulated aloe vera.

In general, consumers in Indonesia are more ingredient-aware and are seeking organic alternatives. Companies are responding by launching new product lines made from natural ingredients which include aloe vera, coconut oil, and other plant-based ingredients.

A company that tends to launch new products using natural ingredients is PT. Gondowangi Traditional Kosmetika, who are famous for their natural haircare products.

Source: https://gondowangi.com/natur/

As technology improves, many brands are offering personalized haircare solutions based on a customer’s specific hair type and requirements such as dandruff solutions due to scalp irritation. This allows customers to find the right products that work best for their hair and leads to customer satisfaction.

The online retail market in Indonesia is growing rapidly. According to McKinsey, in 2021, it became the ninth-largest e-commerce sector in the world, valued at $43 billion,  with many brands capitalising on the trend.

Companies operating in the Indonesia haircare industry are investing more in research and development to create innovative products that meet the evolving choices of consumers such as anti-pollution product for hair, scalp special treatment for man etc.

This includes the development of new ingredients such as frangipani flower extract, mangosteen extract and even vitamin C, ceramide and technology to make haircare products more effective.

With a growing population, many haircare brands are expanding their operations into rural areas in Indonesia to reach a wide customer base.

According to Statista Market Forecast1, the revenue in the haircare market in Indonesia amounts to US$1bn in 2023 and is expected to grow annually by 4.10% (CAGR 2023-2028).

Increasing product awareness, financial independence among female consumers, and considerable attention to male grooming are the main drivers of this expected growth because of the male population’s concern about  their appearance and interest in cosmetics.

In addition to that, digital penetration (currently standing at 73.7% in Indonesia) has also increased rapidly, which in turn improves the e-commerce infrastructure, making haircare products more accessible to consumers.

The following are leading haircare companies in Indonesia with the most sales both in the marketplace and e-commerce:

L’Oréal

Present in Indonesia since 1979, the French behemoth has always demonstrated its commitment to the growth of the beauty industry focused on innovation, digitalization, education, and human resources. Based on the report from the Databooks Katadata official website, L’Oréal saw revenues of US$ 40,310 billion in 2022.

Source: https://www.loreal-paris.co.id/elviverecycle

Makarizo

This brand claims it can overcome various kinds of hair problems almost as a “trend centre” for haircare products. The future looks bright for Makarizo with more intensive promotions and additional product innovations tailored to the market such as natural based ingredients, digital trending and hair treatment tutorials.

Source: https://akashainternational.com/id_ID/makarizo-hair-energy/

Pantene

Pantene has been around for decades and it dominates the Indonesian market and is produced by PT P&G Indonesia, which has been marketed in Europe since 1947. Since its first marketed product, Pantene has continued to innovate to meet its customers’ needs and wants, especially those related to haircare.

As reported on the Compas official website in 2022, Pantene was ranked third as the best-selling shampoo product brand in Indonesia during the second quarter of 2022, and there were approximately 32.3 thousand transactions of Pantene products in one quarter only from its sales at

Source: https://www.pantene.co.id/id-id/produk-toko/rangkaian-produk/total-damage-care

Haircare Opportunities in Indonesia

Hair Growth Treatment

In Indonesia, where beauty and personal care are highly valued, hair growth treatments will always be a popular claim sought by consumers, including combating hair thinning and promoting hair regrowth and proven effective.

Numerous brands offer shampoos and hair tonic infused with essential oils, vitamins, or natural extracts that claim to promote hair growth and reduce hair loss.

Source: Miranda Hair Growth Formula Shampoo, with Sunflower oil and biotin to help hair growth and reduce hair loss

Gently Hair Serum is infused with candlenut oil and ginseng extract, which are known to nourish and thicken the hair, stimulate hair growth, increase hair density, promote healthy and non-dry hair, and strengthen hair roots and strands.

It is formulated specially for baby and kids.

ERHAIR Hairgrow Serum is a hair serum that tackles hair loss and helps stimulate new hair growth by using its Kopexil and Panax Ginseng extracts.

These work together to reduce hair loss and promote hair regeneration by improving blood circulation and nourishing the hair.

Hair Straightening

Indonesia is one of the most ethnically diverse societies on earth as it consists of 1,300 ethnic groups, each having distinct hair types. As a result, hair types in Indonesia can vary widely, however wavy and curly hair are the most common hair types in Indonesia.

Therefore, the pursuit of sleek and straight hair has led to a surge in the popularity of hair straightener treatment products within the country. A semi-permanent treatment has become a game-changer for individuals seeking long-lasting straight hairstyles.#Easystraight Hair Energy from Makarizo has created an easy to use hair straightening cream which provides a solution for straight, neat, and permanent hair without having to go to a salon.

Haircare for the Hijab-Wearing Market

The report by The Royal Islamic Strategic Studies Centre (RISSC) in 2023 indicates that the Muslim population in Indonesia has reached 237.55 million people, making it the largest in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) region as well as globally.

The Muslim population in Indonesia accounts for 86.7% of the total, hence the booming segment of hijab-wearing women who face unique challenges including dryness, breakage and scalp issues.                       

Shampoo products especially created for hijab—wearing consumers (Sariayu and Pantene).

Ideal Haircare for the Indonesia Market

As Indonesia has a tropical climate with humidity usually between 70 and 90%, it’s crucial to prioritize clean hair. Because of that, it is recommended to cleanse one’s hair with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to remove dirt and pollutants. Hydrate hair with a moisturizing conditioner and treat it with deep conditioning treatments to combat dryness caused by humidity and minimize heat styling.

The Market is Shifting

The distribution channels for haircare products in Indonesia is split mainly between supermarkets/hypermarkets, specialty stores and online stores. Supermarkets/hypermarkets hold the largest market share, comprising approximately 40% of the total distribution channel.

Globally, Asia-Pacific emerges as the leading haircare market with a 40% share. This dominance can be attributed to factors such as the region’s substantial population, rising disposable incomes, and rapid urbanization.

The market landscape has undergone a significant transformation as offline stores have gradually given way to online shopping. This shift has been driven by the convenience and accessibility offered by e-commerce platforms for purchasing haircare products.

As a result, the online haircare market has witnessed substantial growth, prompting brands and retailers to establish robust digital platforms and expand their product offerings.

While offline stores still hold significance, the online shopping trend is expected to continue shaping the haircare market, providing consumers with convenience, variety, and a seamless shopping experience in the digital realm.

Conclusion

Indonesia’s haircare industry is on a path of continuous growth and evolution. The market offers a diverse range of products, from natural and sustainable solutions to personalized haircare.

Digital platforms, especially social media and e-commerce, play a crucial role in shaping consumer behaviour and introducing new trends.

Additionally, the demand for halal-certified products presents a significant opportunity for brands.

By staying up to date with consumer trends and focusing on innovation, the haircare industry in Indonesia is set to flourish for years to come.

Find out more about haircare at in-cosmetics Asia on 7-9 November, with Love is in the Hair, spotlighting formulated haircare ingredients.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Indonesia is one of the countries with the largest Muslim population in the world, surpassing Pakistan and India. According to Ministry of Home Affairs (Kemendagri) data, as of December 31  2021, Indonesia’s Muslim population was 237.53 million, 86.9% of the total majority population of Indonesia.

In recent years, the increasing religious awareness of young Muslim consumers and the growing Muslim population around the world have led to an increasing trend of using Halal products all over the world. The Indonesian middle class now have very high purchasing power, especially in the cosmetics sector, and play an important role in influencing modern Indonesian society. It’s no wonder Indonesia is one of the countries with the highest consumption of Halal products in the world.

About Halal cosmetics in Indonesia.

Halal cosmetics have existed in Indonesia since 1995, starting with the brand Wardah which has been a pioneer of Halal cosmetics in Indonesia since. Wardah raised the initial awareness to Halal cosmetics, but it did not become mainstream until 2014.

Halal product regulation was started in 2014 by the Indonesian government and cosmetic products were affected domestically and those coming from overseas. To be Halal, the ingredient of their raw materials to finished products must follow Islamic law. This meant it must not contain ingredients derived from pigs, blood, human body parts, predatory animals and reptiles, and must comply sharia in accordance with the recommendations of The Institute of the Indonesian Ulema Council (MUI).

Overview of Halal cosmetics in Indonesia

Euromonitor shows a staggering 11.99% growth in sales of beauty products since 2017, contributing to IDR 19 trillion. According to statistical data, the growth of beauty products increased by around 6.46% in 2021 despite being affected by the Covid19 virus, with online sales dominating.

According to data from goodstats.id for the use of Halal cosmetics, Indonesia ranks second after India. Indonesia continues to grow rapidly and is said to have become the centre of the cosmetics industry due to government support and a large female population.

According to Muti Arintawati, president and director of the Ulema Council of Indonesia (MUI), there were only 64 cosmetic companies with Halal certification in 2017. The number has continued to grow rapidly, with 129 companies in 2018, 162 companies in 2019, and 214 companies in 2020.

Challenges of Halal cosmetics

These government regulations must be complied with by October 17, 2026, requiring all producers, both raw material suppliers and finished product manufacturers, to be Halal certified.

These regulations pose a major challenge for all raw material suppliers, especially from overseas. By the above dates, you should be able to obtain Halal certificates for the raw materials you export to Indonesia. Halal certification can be done in each country of raw material production by Halal certification providers cooperating with BPJPH (Badan Penyelenggara Jaminan Produk Halal).

But there is also good news, as the government has lowered the registration price for Halal certification of domestic products to $3 and provide convenience in carrying out Halal registration to cosmetic business actors in Indonesia by providing a short time in Halal registration services in 15 days and forming many organizations to verify Halal documents so that the process can be faster. According to the government, the aim is to promote the domestic production of beauty products.

PS: The future of halal beauty was discussed at the recent in-cosmetics Asia event in Bangkok – you can now download the presentation here 

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We were excited to chat to Dewi Rijah Sari from DRS Consulta, a halal certification consultancy. It was great to talk in more detail about how we can clearly define halal, get her take on the industry at present, and talk a little bit about what she predicts for the future of halal.

How can we make halal cosmetics products more accessible and easier to define within the general market?

Prior to talking about the accessibility of halal cosmetics, first we need to clearly define them and create a better understanding of halal cosmetics among consumers.

‘Halal cosmetics’ refers to beauty products that have been manufactured and composed of ingredients that are permissible under Islamic Shariah (law). Halal, by definition, means permissible or allowable.

Halal compliance of cosmetics is basically applied across the entire supply chain, which ranges from the sourcing of ingredients (so that they don’t contain any traces of non-halal materials), to manufacturing and transportation/distribution. Across the supply chain, the cosmetics are protected from the possibility of cross-contamination by non-halal materials.

In terms of accessibility, the halal product is acknowledged by the halal logo on the product label, which is gained through the halal certification and assessment process. Therefore, the implementation of halal certification processes within international halal recognition schemes has become one of the key drivers for the accessibility of halal cosmetics. There are a number of halal certification bodies globally, however at the moment there is no global halal standard applicable in all countries.

Are there different levels of awareness of halal cosmetics between regions? Does this present a significant challenge for certification boards?

Yes, there are different levels of awareness of halal cosmetics between regions. At the moment, the emergence of halal cosmetics is still focused in Asia, with less recognition in the USA and Europe. This is because of Muslim-majority populations in Asia regions compared to other regions.

Are there differences of approach between certification bodies?

The halal assessment might have different approaches between halal certifier bodies. There is a comprehensive assessment approach, starting from source of raw materials, manufacturing processes and transportation/distribution.

The other approach is referring to the assessment of a finished product in order to simply ensure whether the product contains porcine derivatives or not.

Why do you think it’s important that halal products are becoming more mainstream?

The reason for the growth in demand for halal cosmetics is simply to meet the needs and preferences of Muslim consumers. The demand for halal cosmetics products today is rapidly increasing because consumers are becoming more conscious and knowledgeable about halal. Hence, this calls for assurance that the product is not only safe and high quality, but is also expected to be produced and processed in compliance of Islamic Shariah law.

What is the difference between vegan and halal?

Vegan cosmetics perceive that the product does not contain any animal products or animal-derived ingredients.

Halal cosmetics perceive that the product does not contain any ‘non-halal’ ingredients. This means that halal cosmetics might contain animal products or animal-derived ingredients, as long as they are compliant with Islamic Shariah.

What is the difference between an ‘ethical’ product and a halal product?

Halal cosmetics consider a broader view of ethics that is not just limited to organic, 100% vegan or cruelty-free. They often have a sustainability mission either socially or environmentally; for example, supporting a positive environmental impact, or ethically sourced such as offering fair wages.

Currently, the halal cosmetics market has become non-exclusive to Muslims and has gained acceptance among non-Muslim consumers who are now associating halal with ethical consumerism. The appendage of “halal” is not just a guarantee that the product is permitted for Muslims. “Halal” has become a global symbol for lifestyle choice and quality assurance.

What do you predict as the future of halal? Do you see the halal trend progressing from APAC and moving to other areas of the world e.g. UK/US?

The halal cosmetics industry will grow in line with the growing Muslim population, as more Muslim consumers want to ensure their religious principles are respected. The young or millennial Muslim consumers are contributing to the observance of Islamic principles, combining their religious practices with ‘modest fashion.’ New opportunities are therefore opening up in cosmetics and personal care categories.

The halal cosmetics segment could be the next phenomenon of ‘Muslim Beauty,’ ‘M- Beauty’ or ‘Halal Beauty,’ ‘H-Beauty,’ following the popularity of ‘Korean Beauty,’ ‘K-Beauty,’ which has driven new beauty concepts and trends.

Presently, the major growth in the halal trend is still focused in South East Asia, but we have also seen that it’s gradually moving into other Asian countries, as well as the UAE (United Arab Emirates), Europe and the USA.

Halal Cosmetics with Paul Cochrane, DinarStandard

With a global population of over 1.8 billion Muslims, the halal cosmetics industry is growing at a rapid pace. Awareness of this particular beauty movement is expanding, with brands seeking halal certification for their cosmetics and personal care products as a way to cater to their Muslim consumer-base.

Asia Pacific has been seen as the core of the halal cosmetics movement, although it is expected that western countries will start to pick up on the trend. We talked to Paul Cochrane, Senior Associate at the DinarStandard, to get his expert take on the future of the halal cosmetics industry.

Could you provide a brief then/now overview of the DinarStandard report last year versus this year – any key differences in the halal cosmetics industry?

Over the past year the halal cosmetics sector has developed significantly; new start-up cosmetics players are emerging, and the sector is diversifying in terms of its offerings. From product line-ups and wider portfolios, to products geared towards Muslim women. For example, the Modbeautykeeper, which protects hijab wearers’ scarves from getting covered in makeup during application. This is indicative of more innovation and the maturing of the halal cosmetics sector.

There has been particular growth in Southeast Asia, especially Indonesia and Malaysia, but South Korean and Japanese brands as well as OEM companies are also gaining halal certification.

How has COVID-19 affected the halal cosmetics industry?

It has been tough for newly launched brands that were dependent on bricks-and-mortar retail outlets to introduce their products to clients and gain visibility. However, for both new and more established players, being able to utilize social media and e-commerce to drive sales has kept companies in the proverbial game.

One notable trend is that the pandemic has driven demand for locally sourced products, with consumers wanting to support local and/or regional brands. Halal cosmetics companies that have a strong social media presence, particularly on Instagram, have benefitted from this trend, notably in Southeast Asia. In marketing campaigns, companies have also emphasized their diverse appeal to all women and that ‘all lives matter,’ in response to the Black Lives Matter demonstrations in the USA.

Halal cosmetics brands have also released new products that cater to the ‘new normal’, such as creams to help skin adapt to wearing face masks. Companies have also developed, and/or marketed products that are in keeping with current beauty trends due to physical distancing and being at home more.

Has COVID-19 affected timings/budgeting for halal certification?

The pandemic has affected certification, which is quite a lengthy process in general, ranging from a year to 18 months plus. Certifiers have not been able to visit facilities, and audits have been delayed. Halal certified companies, in general, have also been impacted by disruptions in sourcing raw materials, while many have had cash flow issues.

Are brands using halal certification as a selling point?

Halal cosmetics brands are emphasizing certification, especially in Muslim-majority markets. But given the trend for natural, organic and cruelty-free certification, the more successful halal cosmetics players are also emphasizing other labels/certification to appeal to as broad a base of consumers as possible, not just Muslim consumers.

Aside from COVID-19, what are the main challenges the industry is facing?

There are still quite a few challenges for halal cosmetics to become more widespread. The first is arguably awareness, with many Muslims still not aware of what halal cosmetics are. Be that knowledge of haram (not allowed) ingredients being used in cosmetics, or the importance of traceability and sourcing of ingredients.

Another challenge is certification. In general, halal certification bodies around the world have focused more on certifying halal food than other sectors, and may not have the expertise or interest in promoting and certifying halal cosmetics. Related to this is that the majority of HCBs are headed by men, and usually over 50 years old, not being in tune with current developments or realizing the opportunity in getting more involved in the halal cosmetics space.

Governments in Muslim majority countries have also not supported the development of halal cosmetics to the same degree as they have other segments of the Islamic Economy, such as halal food and Islamic finance. Financing is of course another issue, as for start-ups generally around the world, with investors not always seeing the potential for investing in halal cosmetics. Another challenge is Islamophobia, with multinational brands not always marketing products as halal, especially in the West, although do so in Muslim-majority countries.

Multinational brands gaining halal certification, or acquiring halal brands, will drive more market penetration and acceptance. Such concerns have resulted in cosmetics companies often emphasizing natural, organic and cruelty-free logos over halal logos. The sector is also facing a challenge from natural and organic products, as Muslim consumers perceive such products as halal, even though certain ingredients may not be.

Further to this, Halal cosmetics are also facing competition from Ayuverdic cosmetics and beauty products. Particularly in India, with the government supporting Ayuverdic products and promoting hostility to Muslims and the halal sector. India has a very large Muslim population, but the possibilities for Halal cosmetics to gain ground in the market have been hindered by political issues and polarization.

Have you seen a key demographic driving the halal cosmetics movement? What are the reasons for this?

Millennials and Generation Z are the key drivers, both in establishing halal cosmetics companies, and the key consumer target market. This is particularly key in North America and Europe. Muslim millennials and Gen Z in Muslim minority countries are finding that their needs, values and ethics are not being reflected in their products, but are finding that there is appeal for these products in global markets.

This trend is also very apparent in Southeast Asia, where it is the young and savvy entrepreneurs and consumers that are driving demand for Halal cosmetics.

Is social media impacting the drive for halal certification and demand for halal cosmetics?

Absolutely, social media is key for driving demand for halal cosmetics. Brands are able to reach more consumers and tailor marketing to their needs, such as in local languages, rather than just in, say, English.

What do you predict for the future of halal cosmetics? Do you see it becoming more mainstream in countries such as the UK/US?

The halal cosmetics sector has grown out of being niche in many markets, but still has a way to go before becoming more mainstream and available, for example in supermarkets and pharmacists, rather than online and in more specialty stores.

Southeast Asia/Asia Pacific has been spearheading development and expansion of the sector, and it will remain the core, key market for halal cosmetics companies. Uptake in the Middle East and North Africa is still low, but will increase as more brands get certification and awareness grows. The same applies to African markets, although sales will be more driven by volume sales than medium to higher priced products due to lower purchasing power.

The US and UK are very important halal cosmetics markets, not just for domestic sales, but also exports. ‘Made in US/UK/Europe’ is a strong selling point for entering Middle Eastern markets, the Gulf in particular, where there is high spending on cosmetics.

Muslim Population in Indonesia

Indonesia is home to one of the largest Muslim populations in the world, with just over 225 million Muslim residents – that’s 87.2% of their total population that identifies as Muslim.

In recent years, Indonesia has seen a strong economic growth, whereby their middle class population has an increased purchasing power. As a result, in the country’s big cities, urbanisation is on the rise. This is playing a large influence on lifestyle – Muslims in Indonesia are living increasingly modern, urban lives, supplied with the latest technologies, trends and fashions.

New Indonesian halal laws

In October 2014, the Indonesian government issued a new law, called the Halal Product Assurance Law. With a majority Muslim population, the new law aims to protect its citizens by seeking assurance for halal products consumed by them. The law applies to all products that are imported to, distributed and traded in, Indonesia. Companies had until October 2019 to gain halal certification and comply, while some products and services will have until 2022.

The halal law authorised the establishment of the Halal Products Certification Agency (BPJPH), a new government agency under the ministry of religious affairs charged with investigating products and issuing halal certificates. This will first apply to food and beverages, before 2022 when cosmetics, drugs and other consumer goods and services will need to comply.

Once a product has been investigated by the BPJPH, they will then present their results to the Food and Drug Research Institute of the Indonesian Ulema Council (MUI). MUI are responsible for making the final decision on if a product is halal before the certificate can be issued by BPJPH.

Foreign companies looking to export products to Indonesia that require halal certification must first gain halal certification through a body within their own country. MUI have a list of approved bodies and partners on their website for clarification on which agencies are considered to uphold their standards.

The impact of social media on halal cosmetics

The urbanised lifestyle adopted by Indonesian residents has been in part influenced by social media. Indonesia is one of the largest social media markets in the world, in fact, they are one of the top five leading countries based on Instagram audience size, with a user base of 64 million. Indonesians make up over 6% of Instagram’s overall monthly active users, with Indonesian Instagram influencers sharing twice as much compared to the global average.

The modern Muslim in Indonesia is deeply faithful but highly connected to social media, fashion and beauty. Muslim women in Indonesia take great pride in their sophisticated make-up looks and elegant hijabs, showing a deep observance of their faith. According to L’Oreal, women in Indonesia use two skincare products versus seven makeup products.

Wearing the hijab has also played an influence on make-up choices, for example bold brows, strong matte lips and a flawless complexion to highlight their features. The new Wardah line (an Indonesian-based halal makeup brand) called ‘InstaPerfect’ supports this and also indicates a favouring of strongly enhanced features and make-up perfection for selfies.

Beyond social sharing, Instagram has also become a huge platform for e-commerce in Indonesia. Beauty brands in Indonesia often use Instagram as their main platform for sales, with some of them operating solely on Instagram.

Local beauty and halal cosmetics

A key driver in the uptake of Halal Cosmetics is the demand for ‘local beauty brands,’ which is essentially the demand for consumers to experience unique, innovative products and brands from different parts of the world and different cultures.

Asian beauty and culture-inspired beauty is on the rise. We all remember the K Beauty trend, which became mainstream in Western countries when brands like Sephora started selling Korean skincare. Now, the Chinese beauty market is growing and is leading in mobile beauty technologies, such as AR apps for virtually trying on different makeup products. At the same time, the demand for Ayurvedic-inspired skincare is growing rapidly in India.

It naturally follows then that Indonesia’s booming halal beauty market will continue to steadily grow and spread overseas.

The halal-certified logo is one that many Muslims look out for when purchasing and consuming goods. Not only is certification beneficial to companies from a marketability perspective, halal certification also provides Muslim consumers with confidence in the food and products that they are encountering.

The demand for certification has grown over the years. Muslim countries such as Indonesia are introducing new laws around halal certification, whereby products that enter and are traded within these countries must be halal-certified with a clear logo on their packaging.

Halal Certification Europe (HCE)

One such example of a halal certification body is Halal Certification Europe (HCE), an independent non-profit organisation offering certification of food, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, packaging and industrial sanitisers.

Aiming to set the highest standards within their certification process, HCE and their team of technical advisors guarantees an authentic and credible halal certification. Once a product is certified, it gains use of the well-known HCE halal-certified logo and will undergo monitoring and auditing post-certification to ensure that standards of quality are upheld.

The accreditations Halal Certification Europe (HCE) has obtained have allowed its clients to export their products worldwide. HCE has many official accreditations from governmental halal organisations, including, but not limited to Gulf countries, UAE, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and many more.

Advantages of European Halal Certification

1. Increased marketability

With over 50 million Muslims in Europe and approximately 1.8 billion Muslims worldwide, a halal certificate can increase the marketability of a product, increasing its appeal to a wider range of consumers.

2. Increased ability for exportation

For countries that require products to be halal-certified, gaining certification can increase the ability of your product to be exported to these places.

3. Certification of individual ingredients

If your product is made up of halal-certified ingredients, the chances of the product itself gaining certification are much higher and the process becomes streamlined.

4. Acquisition of the halal certified logo

The halal-certified logo is well-known to those within the Muslim community and represents a level of trust and quality. Having the logo on your packaging means that your product can be more readily accepted by halal consumers.

Defining Halal, Haram and Mashbooh

Halal:

By definition, halal means permissible, legal and lawful. Halal products are those that follow the rules of Islamic law.

Haram:

The opposite of halal, haram means prohibited, not lawful and illegal. Examples of haram products are those that contain pork, alcohol and meat from animals or birds that are already dead.

Mashbooh:

There’s a grey area in between haram and halal, called mashbooh. This means it’s not possible to tell whether the product or ingredient is halal. According to Islamic law, Muslims must not consume anything that is classed as mashbooh.

An Overview of the Different Halal Certifications

Halal Certification Europe offers two different certification schemes depending on a company’s plans for exportation:

• GSO Scheme:

For certification that is valid in UAE, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Qatar, Bahrain, Oman and Yemen; as well as other countries across the world.

• Non-GSO Scheme:

For certification that is valid in Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Europe, America, Africa, etc. (countries other than Gulf Countries).

An Overview of the Certification Process:

1. Application
2. Raw material vetting/document review
3. Site audit
4. Halal certification (logo & certificate)

To gain halal certification, companies can apply to Halal Certification Europe online and receive a quotation for the work.

The Struggle to Find Halal Cosmetics Online

Unless you’re living in a country where the dominant religion is Islam, finding cosmetics and personal care products that are halal can prove difficult. Certification of cosmetics in western countries is pretty rare, so it’s difficult to know where the best place to shop is. Lots of Muslim women opt for vegan and natural products out of necessity, but there is no guarantee that these are 100% halal, as many do still contain alcohol.

Online retailers are moving towards the natural beauty trend, and halal products are being unknowingly swept along. However, there’s often very little clarification on beauty websites about whether these products are actually halal-certified or not. We’ve put on our investigative journalist hats to find out how easy it is to find halal products online via large-scale retailers, and what the situation actually is.

Ecco Verde

We’ll start with a winner. Ecco Verde are leading the industry with their e-commerce site that allows you to filter products based upon certifications, including halal certification. Although the choice of products is pretty slim, the clarity over which ones are halal is truly a game-changer.

Halal brands stocked by Ecco Verde, as per their website:

• Ayluna
• CHOBS
• FAIR Squared
• Inika
• Paul Penders
• PHB Ethical Beauty

Cult Beauty

Cult Beauty is a big name in the online beauty retailer game. Famed for having a huge selection of brands and products for customers to try, and bringing to light the products that actually do what they say on the tin. The Cult Conscious initiative, launched by Cult Beauty this year, aims to:

‘cut through the industry ‘noise’ and equip you with key facts that matter… [and] digitally verify the wealth of information that pervades the beauty realm; from whether a product is vegan and cruelty-free to whether it’s housed in recyclable packaging, simply look for the tick to establish each product’s credentials.’

That said, there’s a distinct lack of clarification on their website over which products are halal-certified – where is the tick for halal?

We reached out to Cult Beauty, asking why they don’t specify which products are halal, and for a list of certified brands/products that they stock. This is what they came back with:

“Halal certified brands are not a menu option we currently have, but I’m going to pass this request on to the relevant team as I think this would be a really great category for us to look at having.

For now, I would be unable to confidently recommend a list of Halal certified brands for you, as there is currently no EU regulation on this and is therefore open to interpretation. I do know that the Huda Beauty brand is vegetarian and working on becoming 100% Halal shortly.”

Although they didn’t feel confident to recommend the products, we were super impressed that our request was a) taken seriously and b) taken into consideration. We’ll be keeping an eye out on Cult Beauty for any changes to their site related to halal and will report back if anything comes into fruition.

Content Beauty Wellbeing

Given that Content Beauty Wellbeing is all about natural and organic beauty, it was a surprise to discover that halal certification wasn’t amongst their listed certifications. The products on their site all look absolutely amazing, but the lack of clarification is disappointing.

The ‘badges’ on their website are designed to offer a simplified way for consumers to tell whether a product has gained certification from a particular regulatory body. The badges label the products that are: Certified Organic, Vegan, Great British, Gluten Free, Cruelty Free, Charitable, Recycled Materials, Upcycled, Certified Material, Resource Innovation, Waste Innovation, Design Innovation.

No sign of halal. Nevertheless, when you search for halal-certified in the website search bar, Inika Organic comes up, so it’s not that the retailer doesn’t stock any halal brands, it’s just that they haven’t yet made it visible on their menu or in their filters.

Escentual

Although Escentual don’t offer customers the opportunity to filter products by certification, their filtering system is so comprehensive that it is actually possible to find vegan products that do not contain silicones, parabens or alcohol simply because you can filter based on ingredients that products do not contain.

That said, there’s still a lack of visibility around products that are halal-certified and based on their list of brands, we’re not entirely certain that Escentual even stock any.

FeelUnique

Based on the response that we received from Cult Beauty, we decided to also contact FeelUnique, who are another big online beauty retailer, to see if they’d suggest a change to their site.

We asked them for a list of the halal brands that they stock, and to give credit to FeelUnique, they did provide an answer. Unlike Cult Beauty though, there was no talk of making website changes to accommodate halal.

“Thank you for your email. Please find below some Halal Cosmetic Brands:

• Inika Organics
• Farsali
• PHB ethical Beauty”

Kudos to FeelUnique for having the answer at hand to be able to provide us with, but does this just prove that we’re not the only people asking these questions? And if so, why hasn’t it been made easier to get answers? It’s great that FeelUnique offer halal brands, but we do feel that their halal range has room for growth.

LookFantastic

LookFantastic is all about premium beauty ‘carrying over 22,000 products with complimentary worldwide shipping to over 200 countries’ – that’s an impressive claim. We had a look at their website and there’s no doubt that it’s jam-packed with products, but there’s nothing about halal on the menu or in the filtering options. If you type ‘halal’ into the search bar, however, Inika Organic and NailBerry come up in the results.

Again, slim pickings on the range of products available, but at least the right products come up when you use the search bar. LookFantastic do also have a vegan category for their skincare and makeup sections, which is somewhat helpful, but again you’d still need to do further research on the ingredients of each vegan product to figure out if any of them contain alcohol.

Sephora

Last but certainly not least is Sephora. The thing about Sephora is that a) it’s not available in the UK and b) its product range differs depending upon the region. We know for a fact that Sephora stores in the Asia Pacific region stock halal brands and if we were to ask those particular stores which products are halal, they’d be able to give us a full list. However, on the European website there is no sign of halal certification. Their filtering system is also not comprehensive enough to enable us to filter out products with certain ingredients.

Turns out Sephora makes it pretty difficult for you to get in contact with them over email, so we had to message their Instagram account instead. Again, we asked for a list of halal certified products, and this is what they came back with:

‘We do not have this information available. We’re sorry about that!

Regards,

Sephora Instagram Team’

To Conclude…

Halal products are difficult to find online through a beauty retailer unless you’ve done your research beforehand and know exactly what brands and products you’re looking for. It’s likely that Muslim women living in Europe and the UK have to either shop on specific brand’s websites or rely on checking the ingredients. Relying on checking the label can leave some feeling a lack of complete confidence that the products they have selected are 100% halal. Certification rules out these underlying questions.

What it really comes down to is that certification of beauty products isn’t yet a mainstream trend in Europe; brands haven’t yet spotted that there’s a demand and therefore haven’t gone the certification route. This means a lack of expectation on beauty retailers to be specific on the halal products that they stock.

A good thing that has come out of this is that Cult Beauty might be taking this into consideration. It could come to nothing, but like we said we’ll keep an eye on it and keep pushing – we can be hopeful that if one online retailer makes the change, others will follow.

Globally, approximately 1.8 billion people consider themselves to be Muslim, and the market for halal cosmetics is growing at an exponential rate. New, innovative brands are bringing to the market products that are halal certified and permissible by Islamic law. These exciting brands are taking the cosmetics industry by storm, so we’ve put together a list of our top halal-certified beauty brands for the ingredients-conscious consumer.

Amara Cosmetics

Covering a complete range of halal makeup products, Amara Cosmetics provides all-natural cosmetics for the modern Muslim woman. Taking into consideration not just ingredients but also texture, smell and packaging, Amara Cosmetics are certified by the Islamic Food and Nutrition Council of America (IFANCA) and are manufactured and packaged in California according to Islamic law. 

Most popular product: Amara Organic Lipstick

FX Cosmetics

Founded by three sisters, FX Cosmetics is a halal and ethical beauty brand with an extensive range of makeup products. Their products are not tested on animals and have undergone rigorous testing to comply with halal standards. The makeup at FX Cosmetics is sourced from a range of countries where their halal and ethical ethos are upheld; the company aims to cater to all skin types, ages and races with their advanced range of colours and tones.

Most popular product: Gel Lip Pencils

Tuesday In Love

If you love nail polish then you may enjoy the products of Tuesday In Love, who are a Canadian halal cosmetics company, specialising in water permeable products for the purpose of wudhu. Their range of nail polishes are certified by the ISNA Canada and comply with halal beauty standards, containing no harsh chemicals or haram ingredients. Tuesday In Love are an ethical company and even donate proceeds from each sale to Islamic Relief Canada.

Most popular product: Water Permeable Nail Polish

Inika Organic

One of the biggest names within the halal cosmetics industry, Inika Organic have been pioneers within the natural beauty industry since 2006. With a focus on botanics and organic ingredients, the brand offers high quality products and has gained a well-respected reputation within the halal cosmetics community. Inika Organic are certified halal by the Australian Federation of Islamic Councils. 

Most popular product: Baked Mineral Bronzer

Farsali

Offering a range of luxury skincare products, Farsali was founded by Sal Ali and his wife Farah Dhukai, a high-profile social media Influencer with a huge following of 6 million on Instagram. The brand aims to bridge the gap between makeup and skincare, creating innovative formulas that are cruelty-free, halal certified and high quality. 

Most popular product: Unicorn Essence Antioxidant Serum + Primer

While all of the above halal make-up brands are pretty well known and are super exciting, there’s a whole host of niche small businesses that create halal certified make-up. Because inclusivity in the beauty industry is important to us, our mission is to bring these brands to light and create more visibility around halal cosmetics. Stay tuned and follow our social channels where we’ll be talking in depth about products and brands that you’ll want to know about.

Halal Skincare Ingredients

Finding halal skincare ingredients that actually have a noticeable effect on the skin can be challenging. Although natural ingredients are often good for the skin, troublesome issues such as acne and blemish-prone skin may find that the gentler ingredients just don’t cut it. So, we’ve put together a list of ingredients that we highly recommend, and that have been scientifically proven to give visible results. 

Salicylic Acid

What is it?

Salicylic acid is a naturally occurring active ingredient, however much like vitamin C it can also be synthetically produced. Salicylic acid can be found in the bark of willow trees, or in fruits (such as berries) and vegetables. Synthetic salicylic acid is produced by the biosynthesis of phenylalanine or phenol. 

What does it do?

In skincare, salicylic acid increases cell turnover, which means that it exfoliates the skin. Exfoliation provides a number of benefits, one of which is that it can unclog pores, reducing the debris that lives inside them. This is great for acne-prone skin as it helps to regulate the skin and keep the top layer of cells clean and healthy. Salicylic acid does however have a drying effect, so we recommend moisturising the skin after using products with this ingredient in them. 

Vitamin C

What is it?

Vitamin C is found naturally in fruits and vegetables, in particular citrus fruits such as oranges, however it can also be synthetically produced. Ascorbic acid is the most common type of vitamin C found on the market today; this is a synthetic vitamin C derived from corn starch, corn sugar or rice starch.

What does it do?

In the body, collagen is made using vitamin C. Products containing vitamin C are therefore likely to aid in skin repairing and regeneration, and are often marketed as brightening – they help to smooth the skin’s surface and reduce dullness. Vitamin C has also been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation (fade dark marks) and therefore even out skin tone. 

Glycolic Acid

What is it?

Glycolic acid is an AHA acid (alpha hydroxy acid), which means that it’s a naturally occurring ‘fruit acid’ although synthetic substitutes are often used in cosmetics and skincare. Naturally occurring glycolic is a derivative of sugarcane and is extracted using the reactive solvent extraction method. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size of all AHA’s, which means that it penetrates the skin most easily and therefore has a stronger effect. 

What does it do?

Glycolic is well known for its exfoliating capabilities and is often used as a chemical peel. Often found in products that target the reduction of wrinkles, glycolic has been found to penetrate the deeper layers of skin and stimulate the production of collagen, which increases skin thickness. Because it’s an exfoliator, glycolic is often recommended for acneic skin as it stimulates cell turnover, which unclogs pores. 

Rosehip Oil

What is it? 

Known for its positive skin benefits, rosehip oil is extracted from the seeds of the wild rose bush. The oil contains pro-vitamin A and can be extracted in a variety of ways including solvent extraction, cold-pressed extraction and supercritical extraction. The quality of the end product will often be determined by the extraction method, for example supercritical extraction is known to be the best. 

Rosehip oil contains antioxidants, essential fatty acids, provitamin A, vitamin E and vitamin C.

What does it do?

Rosehip oil is commonly used for smoothing and reducing fine lines. It’s also very effective as an anti-inflammatory and can improve the look of scars. 

Acai Oil

What is it?

Acai oil is derived from the fruit of the acai palm which grows in the Amazon rainforest. Acai is high in phenolics and nutritious palmitic fatty acids. The oil is most commonly extracted via cold-pressed extraction. 

What does it do?

Acai oil is great for restoring skin elasticity and reducing the effects of ageing. It helps to soothe the complexion as it has an emollient effect that can heal cracked and dry skin. Acai oil also contains anti-bacterial properties which makes it great for acne-prone skin. 

Finding the Right Halal Skincare Ingredients for You

While the above ingredients have been proven to be effective in many cases, everyone reacts differently to various ingredients. What may be deemed a miracle treatment by one person, could in fact cause irritation on another. A lot of the time trial and error is required before you find the right skincare routine for you. 

That said, the variety of halal products and ingredients available on the market is steadily expanding. We’re excited to see what innovative new formulas are created under the halal umbrella, so stay tuned for more!

As we gear up for the 12^th edition of in-cosmetics Asia – uniquely positioned in Thailand, the gateway to key consumer countries of halal products such as Indonesia, India and Malaysia – I’m excited to announce we will be launching a brand-new Halal Cosmetics Zone for 2019. The new show area aims to provide R&D professionals with a dedicated area that allows them to discover high-performance ingredients, materials and technologies for new formulations that are halal-certified: free of alcohol, animal fats and harsh chemicals.

Over the last few years, the Halal cosmetics industry has enjoyed a surge in popularity for a number of reasons, including a growing consumer awareness of the usage of animal-derived ingredients as well as increasing demand from mainstream consumers across the globe for halal-certified products. The numbers speak for themselves: market forecasts predict a 15% increase year-on-year, putting the global sector on track to reach over $54 billion by 2022[1].  Consumers are increasingly placing greater priority on halal compliance over factors such as packaging, organic ingredients and other trends – in fact, 58% of women in Indonesia now prefer to use halal cosmetics[2].

Ingredient manufacturers are continuing to make great efforts in this space, and we’re proud to see several long-standing in-cosmetics Asia exhibitors leading the way, such as DSM who have received halal certification for over half of its personal care portfolio[3], and Lonza who provide in excess of 200 halal-certified ingredients[4].

The new Halal Cosmetics Zone will shine a light on this burgeouning trend, helping attendees to not only source the latest certified ingredients from Halal ingredient suppliers such as Mibelle AG Biochemistry and HUNKA, but also to learn more about this area of the industry and be inspired so that they can create future formulations that meet the demands of a growing customer base.

Samples of high-performance materials and ingredients can be found in the new Halal Cosmetics Zone Test and Try area. As well as highlighting the very best halal-certified ingredients, the area will provide an interactive, hands-on experience, coupled with networking and education opportunities, making it an all-round and complete experience for any new product developer looking to expand upon their halal range.

The totally free-to-attend Discovery Theatre will provide further learning opportunities through a programme of thirty-minute presentations showcasing the latest halal-certified products and ingredients. We’re excited to welcome key speakers including Muti Arintawati, Vice Director for The Assessment Institute for Food, Drug and Cosmetic, The Indonesian Council of Ulama. She will explore the halal requirements for cosmetics, comprising materials, facility and products, and provide insights on the criteria outlined in the Halal Assurance System (HAS), a requirement of the Indonesian Council of Ulama.

I truly believe the launch of the new Halal Cosmetics Zone will add immense value to in-cosmetics Asia attendees this November. As a one-stop-shop for everything halal, this area of the show promises to support those visitors looking to develop new product innovations while also providing insights, information and intelligence on certification.

[1] Allied Market Research

[2] Research and Markets

[3] https://www.dsm.com/markets/personal-care/en_US/news-and-insights/press-releases-publications/2018/01/2018-01-29-dsm-receives-halal-certification-for-the-majority-of-its-personal-care-products.html

[4]https://www.lonza.com/~/media/Files/Global%20Citizenship/Pdfs/Lonza_Williamsport_halal_certificate.ashx?la=en