in-cosmetics Asia has announced the winners of its annual Awards, held at the Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Centre (BITEC). A testament to the relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation within the cosmetic and personal care industry, the awards recognise outstanding ingredient innovations from some of the trailblazing leaders in this space.

As the leading event for the cosmetic and personal care community in the Asia-Pacific region (APAC), the expert judging panel have awarded accolades for the Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient and the Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient awards, plus the Spotlight On Awards.

INNOVATION ZONE: ACTIVE INGREDIENT AWARD

Immunight by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has been honoured with the prestigious Gold Active Ingredient Award for its green-processed oil-soluble lavandin extract, specifically designed to reduce the effects of poor-quality sleep on skin by boosting nighttime skin recovery and targeting the improvement of sleep quality by inhalation of olfactory compounds.

The Silver Award was awarded to CODIF which impressed the judges with its REGETASTE – an anti-ageing epidermal ingredient that improves skin texture and brightness.

RAHN AG has once again demonstrated its commitment to innovation by receiving the prestigious Bronze Award for its water-based extraction of Helichrysum italicum syn angustifolium, chlorogenic acid, and di-O-caffeoylquinic acids, PERFELINE®, to strengthen the micro-vessels in human skin.

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD 

In the Functional Ingredient Award category, Emulium Dermolea MB earned Gattefossé the esteemed Gold Award. As a plant-based O/W emulsifier, this functional ingredient offers a unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes to reduce skin stress and bring long-term soothing.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S by IOI Oleo scooped the Silver Award for its cold-processable transforming ingredient allowing simple powder-to-emulsion on-the-go formulas with soft after-feel.

Also highly commended for its achievements, BENTONE® PLUS GLOW won Elementis the Bronze Award, combining natural ingredients designed to impart rheological control and suspension to the oil phase of cosmetics and skin care products and promote the skin’s barrier function.

SPOTLIGHT ON FORMULATION AWARD

in-cosmetics Asia also provided a platform for attendees to celebrate outstanding achievements through the prestigious Spotlight On Formulation Award in the Sustainable, Conscious Beauty and Love is in the Hair (Haircare) categories.

The awards saw 39 entries reviewed by judges live on the show floor, marking an exciting journey to discover this year’s winners:

The Bronze Award for Sustainable, Conscious Beauty went to BioSyn-Bisabolol by China-based Soho Aneco Chemicals, whilst Silver was awarded to Lotion with Neosolue-Aqulio by Japanese company, Nippon Fine Chemical.

Described by one of the judges as “an outstanding innovative achievement for 5% UV Filters with SPF30, with a good feel, great double layered encapsula and technology with particle aggregate prevention”, the Gold Award went to SunCat JCW03 by Taiwanese BIO-NEST Biochemical Technology. 

Competition was fierce in the “Love is in the Hair” (haircare) category with two Gold Award winners announced: BURGEON-UP(HS) by Ichimaru Pharcos from Japan took the first accolade for a product that, according to one of the judges was, “a great topical cosmos option for hair greying, with a dual function for anti-hair loss and anti-grey hair”.

Azelis was awarded Gold for its Detox Scalp Butter Mask, referred to by the judges as a “really trendy, easy to use multifunctional with a lovely end formula and texture.”

This year’s awards brought together a wealth of experience and expertise, comprising leading experts and professionals to evaluate and recognise the most innovative entries:

Dr Awanthi De Silva, Senior R&D/ Regulatory Compliance Lead, Moorebank Aerosol and Fillers
Dr. Jaesung Hwang, Professor, KyungHee University;
Dr Junho Choi, Chief Researcher, Amorepacific;
Dr Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group;
Dr Oliver Hofmann, in-cosmetics Asia Official Technical Advisor and Technical Director, Shieling Laboratories;
Faiza Hussain, Co-Founder and Head of Innovation, Younger Inc.;
John Jimenez, Senior Researcher, Belcorp;
Merve Samur, Director, The INCI Lab;
Mike Sohn, General Manager, REACH24H Consulting Group;
Muriel Pujos, Technical and Scientific Director Skin Care, Coty Monaco;
Ranelle Anderson, Technical Director, Ausmetix Pty Ltd;
Stacey Fraser (DipFormChem), Personal Care Product Design Consultant, Stacey Fraser.Co;
Yvette Ishac, Head of R&D, IconsIRauxel;
Belinda Carli, Director/Cosmetic Chemist, The Institute of Personal Care Science.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Barcelona, 29 March 2023 – The organisers of in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, are proud to have unveiled the winners of its 2023 Awards at a packed, in-person ceremony at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via (28 March).

In a record-breaking year, that attracted more than 250 entries, exhibitors and visitors came together to celebrate the industry’s most forward-thinking suppliers, and find out who would scoop this year’s accolades.

A panel of industry experts, hailing from all corners of the globe including the Americas, Asia and Europe, were tasked with selecting the winners, a full list of which can be found below.

INNOVATION ZONE: ACTIVE INGREDIENT AWARD

Scooping the Gold award for the Innovation Zone: Active Ingredient Award was CALMandrin by Mibelle Biochemistry. The sustainably sourced ingredient, obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins, is designed to improve the signs of ageing, as well as soothe reddened and inflamed skin. In addition to its calming effect on irritated skin, it was also noted for its benefits in increasing the firmness and density of the skin.

Altheostem from Provital, Do Care took the Silver Award while BIOCOBIOME from Bicosome was awarded the Bronze title.

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD

In the Innovation Zone: Functional Ingredient Award, IFF took home the Gold Win for its AURIST AGC. The water-soluble, cationic biopolymer delivers conditioning benefits on hair, improving both wet and dry combability. Backed by strong bioscience capabilities, the natural-inspired conditioning biopolymer is readily biodegradable and easy to use in formulations. Furthermore, it can form completely transparent formulations including with anionic ingredients and does not require pH neutralization.

Ingredients that are both biodegradable and deliver strong performance were also highly commended by the judges, with Aristoflex Eco T from Clariant and Evonik Industries’ TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB presented with the Silver and Bronze awards respectively.

GREEN INGREDIENT AWARD

Celebrating ingredients that make a significant environmental or social difference was the Green Ingredient Award, in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence.

Taking the 2023 title was Rootness Awake from Clariant – described as an “eco-friendly eye contour illuminator”, the natural active ingredient is extracted from the roots of the ipomoea batatas thanks to Plant Milking technology. It is rich in DCQEs (dicaffeoylquinate esters) and targets several mechanisms responsible for under-eye circles and eye bags.

Also recognised in the Green Ingredient category, this year’s Silver Award winner was A-Sensofeel MFC by Minasolve SAS, while SeaBalance 2000 by CarbonWave took the Bronze Award.

RISING STAR AWARD

The Rising Star Award, which recognises first- and second-year exhibitors, saw The Upcycled Beauty Company take the coveted title.

As a leader in the upcycled personal care movement, the company has set out to change the perception of waste, making upcycled ingredients more accessible to beauty brands.

2023 SENSORY AND MAKE-UP BAR WINNERS 

In two additional categories, the winners of the in-cosmetics Global Make-up Bar Award and Sensory Bar Award were decided by an elite judging panel, live at the show.

Exhibitors displaying the very latest ingredient innovations in the Make-Up Bar and Sensory Bar were put under the microscope by judges including representatives from Trinny London, Belcorp, Martha Tilaar Group, Coty Monaco, Chanel, Tolentina Consulting, Ausmetix Pty Ltd and Yanbal International.

At the show’s Sensory Bar, new and invigorating sensations were under the spotlight, from evocative fragrances and heavenly tastes to transforming textures. Scooping the Gold Award, Eigenmann & Veronelli’s Magic Eye Contour Powder-to-Liquid was recognised by judges for its excellent, soft sensory properties. Taking the Silver Award was STOCKMEIER Group’s Stockmeier – Your rock-solid partner, while Beauty Party – Symphonic Feelings by SEPPIC was awarded Bronze.

Meanwhile, offering inspiration for the next generation of colour cosmetics, the in-cosmetics Global Make-up Bar Award honoured the innovative pigments and technologies that offer brands a way to deliver captivating shades and hues.

Taking the top title, Imerys scooped the Gold Award for its Natural blurring routine, while Lubrizol was awarded the Silver Award for its SilSense Bio 5, sustainable silicone alternative for makeup with unique sensorial and performance. The final award of the night saw Kahl announced as the Bronze winner for its Make-Up Bar (with lipstick variations).

Roziani Zulkifli, Exhibition Director, in-cosmetics Global, said:

“Exhibitors at in-cosmetics Global continue to wow us with their imagination, pioneering use of science and commitment to innovation. In what has been another record-breaking Awards cycle, we’re delighted to announce this year’s winners and celebrate these remarkable companies.

“The show continues to hold its position in the industry as a platform to launch the latest ingredients, bringing together the industry to network, source the latest ingredient innovations and gain insights from industry leaders. We share our congratulations with this year’s winners and look forward to welcoming exhibitors and attendees back to the Fira Barcelona Gran Via until 30 March.”

in-cosmetics Global returns to the Fira Barcelona Gran Via tomorrow for day two. For more information visit the website. 

ENDS

This year’s in-cosmetics Global award winners include:

Innovation Zone: Active Ingredient Award

GOLD – CALMandrin by Mibelle Biochemistry

SILVER – Altheostem by Provital, Do Care

BRONZE – BICOBIOME® by BICOSOME

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD

GOLD – AURIST AGC by IFF

SILVER – Aristoflex Eco T by Clariant

BRONZE – TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB by Evonik Operations GmbH

GREEN INGREDIENT AWARD

GOLD – Rootness Awake by Clariant

SILVER – A-Sensofeel MFC by Minasolve SAS

BRONZE – SeaBalance 2000 by CarbonWave

RISING STAR AWARD

The Upcycled Beauty Company

MAKE-UP BAR AWARD

GOLD – Natural blurring routine by Imerys

SILVER – SilSense Bio 5. Sustainable silicone alternative for makeup with unique sensorial and performance by Lubrizol

BRONZE – Make-Up Bar (with lipstick variations) by Kahl

SENSORY BAR AWARD

GOLD – Magic Eye Contour Powder-to-Liquid by Eigenmann & Veronelli

SILVER – STOCKMEIER – Your rock-solid partner by STOCKMEIER Group

BRONZE – Beauty Party – Symphonic Feelings by SEPPIC

Premier Sponsor:

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS 

Bangkok, 2 November 2022: The organisers of in-cosmetics Asia – the leading event in Asia Pacific for personal care ingredients, have announced this year’s 2022 Innovation Zone and Spotlight On Formulation Award winners.

Announced on day two of the event, the awards honoured the best Innovation Zone ingredients and Spotlight On’s formulated ingredients, recognising companies that had responded to the needs of the industry, demonstrated innovation and the growing focus on sustainability.

INNOVATION ZONE: ACTIVE INGREDIENT AWARD

Scooping the Gold award for the Innovation Zone: Active Ingredient Award was Mibelle Biochemistry for its NovoRetin aromatic resin. Serving as an ideal plant-based retinol alternative, it was recognised for providing strong anti-ageing effects and exceptional benefits for acne-prone skin. Based on mastic, which is an aromatic resin from the tree bark that grows on the Greek island of Chios, NovoRetin increases the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, which leads to retinol-like effects.

Taking the Silver Award, Vytrus Biotech was recognised for its ELAYA RENOVA – The Hair Tensegrist by Vytrus Biotech – a 100% natural active for global hair and scalp care. It protects, reinforces, regenerates, and beautifies the whole hair structure, from scalp to hair shaft and the hair anchoring proteins with a plant strategy. It is inspired by the architectural concept of “Tensegrity” which explains how changes applied to an area will also exert effects at a distance because everything is interconnected. Vytrus has transferred this vision to the hair structure, where the hair shaft and the scalp are intimately interconnected.

Meanwhile, with such tough competition, two Bronze Awards were announced. BASF took the first accolade for its postbiotic technology for healthy ageing, Postbiolift. It contains the fermentation supernatant of Lactobacillus crispatus. Its secreted metabolites contribute to more elastic skin, a smoother appearance of wrinkles around the eyes, and an even complexion.

Cellicon Lab was the second Bronze Award winner, recognised for its DST-DX targeted skin-lightener. Designed to target the melanocyte – a highly differentiated cell that produces a pigment melanin inside melanosomes, DST-DX contains one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors, even more potent than hydroquinone.

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD

In the Innovation Zone: Functional Ingredient Award, Ashland Singapore celebrated the Gold win for its Antaron soja glyceride. A novel nature-derived, biodegradable water resistant film former and SPF booster for suncare formulations that also provides transfer resistance for colour cosmetics. Antaron Soja Glyceride is non-GMO, vegan suitable, and compatible with both organic and inorganic ingredients.

Meanwhile, with joint wins in both Silver and Bronze categories, Global Bioenergies took the Silver Award for its ISONATURANE® 12 – the trademark registered by Global Bioenergies to designate its naturally sourced isododecane product. Isododecane is one of the most important molecules used in the cosmetics industry, both in the make-up segment, where it is the only molecule able to deliver longwear properties, and in skincare and haircare, where it endows textures with lightness and softness.

Fellow Silver Award winner was Sharon Laboratories for its broad-spectrum preservative blend, Sharomix 699. Suitable for cosmetic applications inspired by clean beauty, it is formulated with a minimalist composition using food preservatives. It is completely water-soluble and is suitable for baby care and wet-wipe applications.

Elsewhere, Bronze Award winners included Hallstar for its SolaPure Glo natural multifunctional emollient that improves sun protection performance. This holistic suncare solution leverages adaptogen-rich turmeric’s inherent skincare potential to improve SPF/PFA levels, defend against “inflamm’aging” and promote overall skin wellbeing. It is ideal for regulatory restricted markets, as the use of SolaPure Glo can help to achieve the same or higher sun protection efficacy with lower UV filter concentration in organic and inorganic sunscreen systems.

In addition, Jan Dekker exclusively at IMCD also celebrated its Bronze Award achievement for its natural derived cellulose-based emulsifier, Dekamulen Power’Feel. The 98.8% natural-derived high performing polymeric emulsifier can create many variations of textures. It enables high emollient loads, of a broad range of emollient types, at low use levels. It provides light and silky textures, a high spreadability without peeling effects and is a perfect replacement for synthetic emulsifiers.

SPOTLIGHT ON: FORMULATION AWARD

Attendees at in-cosmetics Asia also came together to celebrate the best Spotlight On formulated ingredients. More than 30 entries were reviewed by the judges live on the show floor, in a bid to find this year’s Spotlight On Formulation Award winners.

Scooping the Gold Award, DKSH was recognised for its Baby One More Time Face cleanser powder. Designed to act as part of a self-care cleansing ritual, it helps to achieve a youthful complexion and deliver “fresh, lively, bright and bouncing faces”. It is also free from ingredients known to be harmful to humans and the environment, such as microplastics, SLES/SLS and silicone, with DKSH reducing water quantities used during the production process.

Also recognised in this year’s Spotlight On Awards, Innovacos took the Silver Award for its Cleaning Oil to Milk with PolyAquol-2W. A patented polyglycerol-based O/W self-emulsifier, the product is both naturally derived, and Cosmos approved. It offers a wide range of formulation compatibilities while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions. Generating highly organised liquid crystals, essential to providing stability to the emulsion, it ensures compatibility with the skin, showing biomimetic clinical benefits. It has also been shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure, restores the cutaneous microflora with bio-biotic properties to S-epidermidis, and helps cutaneous homeostasis to improve the skin barrier function and mitigate signs of skin disorders.

Finally, taking the Bronze Spotlight On Award, Evonik was chosen for its Winter Time Regeneration Lotion-Vitamin D3 (MM 432/4) with TEGO® Sterol 7-DHC V. Designed to help regenerate sun stressed skin during the winter months, Evonik’s Winter Time Regeneration Lotion features a fully renewable, natural skin cholesterol specialty: TEGO® Sterol 7-DHC V. 7-dehydrocholesterol is a natural Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) precursor that is uniquely activated under UV irradiation. In Vitro testing indicates 7-dehydrocholesterol can provide skin protection and repair benefits by targeting various natural skin markers. It also promotes skin cell differentiation and boosts natural antimicrobial peptides in the skin, as well as offering the benefits of Vitamin D.

in-cosmetics Asia continues at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), Asia’s premier exhibition and convention centre, until 3 November 2022. For more information, please visit https://asia.in-cosmetics.com/

24 October 2022:

The organisers of in-cosmetics Asia – the leading event in the Asia Pacific (APAC) region for personal care ingredients, have announced the shortlist for the 2022 Innovation Zone Awards.

Highlighting the newest ingredient innovations launched since March 2022, the awards will honour the best Innovation Zone ingredients along with the best Spotlight On formulated ingredients. The Innovation Zone provides an invaluable snapshot of some of the most innovative new ingredients and formulations to hit the market. Meanwhile, the event’s Spotlight On dedicated product displays will focus on formulated ingredients related to this year’s chosen product categories: Healthy Skin and Makeup.

Twenty ingredients have been shortlisted, each in with a chance of scooping the prestigious title of Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient and Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient. Meanwhile, more than 30 entries will be displayed in this year’s Spotlight On feature and considered for the Spotlight On Formulation Award. The winners will be announced on Wednesday, 2 November at 17:15 live at the show as it returns to the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC).

In a press conference about the awards, Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group and Innovation Zone Award judge spoke about the current Asia Pacific (APAC) trends that are driving demand for sustainable and nutrient-rich ingredients, including a greater focus on traceability as well as the continued popularity of natural and organic ingredients. He revealed that a boom in supplier concept formulations was being driven by a need to support brands’ product development and the increasing clinical focus, in favour of efficacy that is supported by science.

Speaking about the approach to judging this year’s Award entries, Tilaar, added: “In order for the winning ingredients to meet the needs of the industry, innovation, novelty, the use of technology and invention are my top concerns. The focus of this year’s assessment is also on the growing consumer awareness of sustainability issues, so ingredient producers must demonstrate not only technological innovations but also how ingredients are produced using environmentally friendly processes that have an impact on society.

He continued, “Two topics that fascinate me this year are neurocosmetics and microbiome. The use of ingredients with biotech materials as part of their components is beginning to replace the cosmetic industry’s reliance solely on chemical-based properties. The use of cosmetics with the advantages to human health and senses is combined in the emerging field of neurocosmetics.”

Fellow judges of this year’s Awards include: Dr. Oliver Hofmann, in-cosmetics Asia 2022 Official Technical Advisor and Technical Director, Shieling Laboratories; Dr. Awanthi De Silva, NPD Lead (Senior Chemist), Moorebank aerosol fillers; John Jimenez, Senior Researcher, Belcorp; Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group; Muriel Pujos, Technical and Scientific Director, Skincare, Coty Monaco; Pi Hyun Jung, aka Director Pi, The Phi Essential; Ranelle Anderson, Technical Director and Co-Founder, Ausmetix Pty Ltd; Seongmin (Mike) Sohn, CEO & Representative Consultant, REACH24H Consulting Group, Korea; and Stacey Fraser, Co-Founder, Products Director, SAGE COLLECTIVE.

INNOVATION ZONE: ACTIVE INGREDIENT AWARD

Shortlisted in the active ingredient category are:

• Caressense biofunctional by Ashland Singapore: A phytofermented extract from fresh and organic jasmine flowers, sustainably grown in Provence, and inspired by research on the connection between “skin and emotions” and “science of love”. The natural bioactive activates skin sensors of touch, the piezos, to release “feel-good” and anti-aging molecules for a wellbeing and well-aging benefits.
• Postbiolift by BASF: A preservative-free, 100% natural, postbiotic ingredient for healthy aging. It is designed to make the skin more elastic and smooth, lessens the visibility of crow’s feet and creates an even complexion. It provides radiance, matrix protection, elasticity and forming and anti-wrinkle benefits.
• DST-DX by Cellicon Lab: the first targeted skin-lightener that is designed to target the melanocyte – a highly differentiated cell that produces a pigment melanin inside melanosomes. It contains one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors, even more potent than hydroquinone.

• CutiGuard CLR by CLR Berlin: Based on the extremophile red alga Galdieria sulphuraria, CutiGuard CLR constitutes a refined approach to the first signs of skin aging. It transfers the adaptivity and resilience of Galdieria sulphuraria to a highly effective, natural active ingredient that protects the skin in stressful environments.
• SEDERMA BB-BIONT by CRODA Singapore (to be launched at the show)
• Vitamin B12 Cryst by DSM Personal Care: This new grade of vitamin B12 is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, has a natural origin index of 68.7% and is Halal approved and vegan compliant. It helps relieve fatigued and irritated skin, protect the skin barrier, and promote a more vibrant looking complexion.
• Rootness® Awake by Clariant: An extract from the roots of sweet potato that have been cultivated in aeroponic conditions thanks to the environmental-friendly plant milking technology, that allows direct stimulation of the roots to produce active molecules. It targets the main mechanisms of action responsible for dark circles and under-eye bags, improving eye contour brightness and stiffness (+95% after only 7 days) and a decreasing puffiness (-30% after 7 days).
• NovoRetin by Mibelle Biochemistry: Based on mastic, an aromatic resin that comes from a tree which exclusively grows on the Greek island of Chios. NovoRetin serves as an ideal plant-based retinol alternative, providing both strong anti-aging effects and exceptional benefits for acne-prone skin.
• MYRAMAZE® Essence by RAHN: A sensocosmetic active ingredient that revives and vitalises the skin. It reinstates the skin’s natural radiance and relaxes skin and mind. It is proven to balance facial hydration, reduces redness, brightens, reduces roughness and increases gloss. In addition, the skin barrier is strengthened, and the skin becomes more elastic. The lips become plumper and wrinkles on the lips as well as on the skin are reduced.
• ELAYA RENOVA – the Hair Tensegrist by Vytrus Biotech: A natural active that boosts hair tensegrity, an arquitecture-inspired concept which considers scalp, hair follicle, and hair shaft where all parts are interconnected and the whole hair system is revitalized with a plant strategy.

INNOVATION ZONE: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT AWARD

Shortlisted in the functional ingredient category are:

• Antaron Soja Glyceride by Ashland Singapore: A novel nature-derived, biodegradable water resistance film former and SPF booster for sun care formulations that also provides transfer resistance for color cosmetics. Antaron Soja Glyceride is non-GMO, vegan suitable, and compatible with both organic and inorganic ingredients.
• Z-COTE® Sheer by BASF: a naturally derived liquid dispersion of Zinc Oxide. This highly effective, inorganic, broad-spectrum UV filter has excellent photostability and allows for the creation of lightweight formulas that protect the skin. Z-COTE Sheer offers a low-whitening effect, so it’s applicable for a wide range of sun and skin care applications, including daily wear products for all skin tones. With its ease of use and high compatibility, it offers excellent flexibility for formulators and works in harmony with other natural ingredients.
• SeaBalance 2000 by Carbonwave: The world’s first seaweed-based cosmetic emulsifier. It delivers performance like that of a synthetic emulsifier while being completely natural. Made from upcycled Sargassum, it prevents 450kg of CO₂e with each ton of seaweed used.
• TEGOSOFT® LO MB by Evonik (Thailand): A natural replacement for mineral oil with similar sensory in skin care products. The medium spreading emollient is fully based on renewable sources and produced by a unique, eco-efficient process. Its excellent wetting properties make it especially suitable for color cosmetics.
• ISONATURANE® 12 by Global Bioenergies: The trademark registered by Global Bioenergies to designate its naturally sourced isododecane product. Isododecane is one of the most important molecules used in the cosmetics industry, both in the make-up segment, where it is the only molecule able to deliver longwear properties, and in skincare and haircare, where it endows textures with lightness and softness.
• SolaPure Glo by Hallstar: All-natural SolaPure Glo leverages curcumin’s benefits to improve sun protection’s SPF and PFA performance, control hyperpigmentation and promote overall skin wellbeing. It can be used in any cosmetic formulation to provide youthful radiance and glow.
• VITACEL® CS 30 Oat by J. Rettenmaier & Söhne: An upcycled by-product of the food industry. Using oat straw, no food is wasted in this product. With a high technological procedure, it is possible to upcycle this waste material to a high-quality product with an average particle size of 30 µm. This low particle size leads to a fine soft-touch powder with high water and oil binding capacities.
• Dekamulen Power’Feel by Jan Dekker exclusively at IMCD: a natural derived cellulose-based emulsifier offering very good emulsifying performance (up to 20%-30% of oil), capable of emulsifying a broad range of emollient types. It provides a nice sensoriality – light and silky textures, a high spreadability, with a quick break, without a peeling effect, at low use level (1-1.5%). Dekamulen Power’Feel is the ideal solution to formulate all kinds of emulsions, especially light and fluid textures, perfectly adapted for face creams, face serums (skin care) & BB creams (color care). In addition, the low colour means there is no impact on the colour of the final product.
• HY-N SOLUTION by NABSOLUTE: A delivery system with functional benefits. It is a patented nano-modified hyaluronic acid grafted with poly-isopropyl acrylamide. It offers a range of functional benefits including moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, whitening and anti-ageing properties.
• Sharomix 699 by Sharon Laboratories: A broad spectrum preservative blend with a minimalist composition, suitable for cosmetic applications inspired by clean beauty. Both of its components are listed as food preservatives and represent concrete alternatives to traditional preservation proposals. Completely water-soluble, it is also suitable for baby care and wet-wipes applications. While its high biodegradability makes its an eco-friendly preservative.

For more information on this year’s Spotlight On entries, visit the in-cosmetics Asia website

in-cosmetics Asia will take place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC), Asia’s premier exhibition and convention centre from 1-3 November 2022. Registration is  open. For more information, please visit https://asia.in-cosmetics.com/

-Ends-

In recent years, beauty innovations have started to take age into consideration to deliver the best benefits according to a user’s life cycle.

While consumers are looking for products that will prolong youth and combat ageing, brands are setting their sights on the grey population and starting to target them explicitly. Additionally, they are expanding the demographic groups to cater to the needs of all generations in order to look their best at any stage of life.

This approach has led to an interesting wave of product launches in the beauty space targeted at different demographic groups with varying claims in positioning, packaging and functional benefits. Attendees of in-cosmetics Asia are welcome to join Mintel in the Innovation Zone to see, touch and test the latest concepts designed for the various generations during the live product demonstrations.

Mintel will also deliver presentations in the Marketing Trends & Regulations Theatre on facial masks and the rise of indie brands. The facial mask category continues to see steady growth with innovations launching in new formats with new materials and ingredients. We are also seeing significant growth in the hair mask subcategory as consumers become increasingly concerned about damage caused by external factors like UV rays and pollution.

The impact that successful indie brands are having on the market will also be explored by Mintel, which will examine which ones are most affecting Asia’s beauty space.

Mintel will run demonstrations at the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Asia from Tuesday 31st October to Thursday 2^nd November from 11-11.30am & 14.00 –14.30 each day. She will also present on facial masks on 1 November from 13-13.45pm in the same theatre.

Top Secret #1: Using the right materials in the right amounts in the right application
Sounds easy, right? You’d be amazed how many times formulators get one or more of these elements wrong. Let’s break it down, and you’ll see how mistakes can easily be made:

• right material: this needs to suit the company philosophy and have the required efficacy with fantastic marketable claims. For example, if the company philosophy is natural products, then all ingredients must suit this philosophy including any actives AND any incidental ingredients the active may contain. Some active ingredients may contain incidental preservatives that conflict with company philosophy – so check this carefully! There is also a big difference between having a material with great scientific results and one that has a great marketing story – remember, the science behind how materials work on a cellular level CAN’T be told in promotional material! Claims made in marketing campaigns must be visible/appearance based, so if the material doesn’t have good in-vivo data proving those visible results, you’ll struggle to have an effective marketing claim. Even if you have the best product in the world if you can’t say anything about it, you won’t sell a single unit! Choose wisely to ensure the materials you select suit your company philosophy and have a fantastic marketing story to really drive sales.
• right amount: if the in-vivo results of an active ingredient show efficacy when used in a cream base at 5% twice daily, then you need to use it in a cream base at 5% with directions to apply twice daily. All too often we see companies use active materials in lower amounts than the in-vivo test conditions to save on material costs; but if the active material is used less than its proven amount, you might as well not use it at all!
• right application: there is no point using an active material that has been proven in a twice daily application (leave on product) in a wash off or once daily or weekly application. There are plenty of actives that suit wash off or low frequency use conditions; if that is the type of products you are creating then speak with your suppliers to get actives that work in those applications.

Top Secret #2: Get the actives to where they need to be
Cosmetic substances applied topically may:

• sit on the surface of the skin and/or penetrate the very outer layers of the epidermis (stratum corneum). This is ideal if you are creating a ‘barrier protection’ product or trying to prevent transepidermal water loss: use appropriate film formers, hydrolysed proteins, barrier agents and lipids to achieve this.
• penetrate to the mid-layers of the epidermis (stratum granulosum) to support hydration and suppleness claims. Osmolytic substances such as humectants can be effective carriers to this level of the epidermis and are useful where actives need to reach the mid-layers of the skin.
• penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis (stratum basale). This is where a lot of high end actives need to penetrate; such as skin whitening agents, peptides and stem cells. To get actives to the stratum basale, you need to formulate effectively using one or more delivery systems such as suitable solvents, liposomes, encapsulation and/or micro or nano emulsions to penetrate effectively through the outer layers of the epidermis and reach the target site.

If you don’t get the material to its required site of activity, you might as well not have it in the formula at all!

Top Secret #3: Good sensory impact
The first thing a consumer will do when trying a product, is smell it. The second thing they will do is evaluate how much they like (or dislike) the product by the way it feels and spreads on application. Whether it is fragranced or not; high or low spreading; silky or cushiony… it needs to suit your target market sensory expectations. Even if it has excellent efficacy, if a consumer doesn’t like the way a product smells or feels, they won’t use it long enough to get the results! With an almost endless array of fragrances and sensory agents now available, there is no excuse to get this wrong… speak with your supplier to include the functional materials to meet the aesthetic requirements of your target market for a successful formulation!

Top Secret #4: Use the right method
Even the most careful material selection is worthless if you don’t use the right compounding method, and that method needs to be easily scalable to suit bulk manufacture. Method is crucial! In addition, a method that is tricky in the lab can become impossible in large quantities, and/or using materials incorrectly can dramatically affect a products shelf life and stability. Three of the biggest errors we see formulators commonly make include:

• heating volatile materials – if you heat them, they simply evaporate… so why use them in the first place? Always check and add below their vaporisation temperature.
• incorrect hydration/activation of gums/polymers – every gum/polymer needs its own specific method of hydration (water soluble) or activation (oil soluble). If you don’t hydrate/activate correctly, they may as well not be added!
• adding materials in the wrong phase – the right materials in the wrong combinations, being over heated (or not heated at all, if that is required), the wrong shear… all of these items can make good material selection pointless.

But these are only 3 examples of what can go wrong… human error at the formulation stage can be the worst impact on formulation stability and scalability. Speak with your suppliers to get the correct processing information and create the right method for successful formulations, especially when working with new and innovative materials!

Top Secret #5: Ensure compatibility
This little secret, often overlooked, can have dramatic impacts on the shelf life and efficacy of a product. Here are a couple of scenarios:

• incompatible pH – this is by far the biggest mistake we see formulators use. They may: select the right active, but put it in a base product where the pH makes it no longer bioavailable; or combine materials with very different pH requirements; or not allow for pH drift over the shelf life, which will always happen in water based products.
• incompatible charge – some materials need to avoid anionic environments while others may not be electrolyte or charge tolerant at all! Using materials in an environment where the charge is wrong can lead to insoluble complexes forming or totally negate normal functionality.
• incompatible polarity – in anhydrous systems, polarity of your lipids matters! Some viscosity modifiers specifically suit non-polar environments while others need polar activators; and others are specifically needed to hold polar and non-polar lipids together! The polarity of lipids, and how selection, combination and stabilisation can be impacted, is another scenario often overlooked by formulators until something goes wrong!

Exciting product launches come from using innovative materials to create industry leading products -find more at in-cosmetics Latin America and make sure you master these secrets to have truly successful formulations.

Belinda Carli is the Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science and the Official Technical Advisor for all in-cosmetics exhibitions around the world, ensuring you see the latest material innovations and solutions at every show. Learn how to get your formulas right! Study on-line, via distance education with the Institute of Personal Care Science, Industry Leaders in providing Certificate and Diploma level training in Cosmetic Science, Formulation, Brand Management and Regulatory Affairs. IPCS is as close to you as your computer, no matter where you are in the world! Find out more: www.personalcarescience.com.au or email info@personalcarescience.com.au

Winner of the Gold Active at the in-cosmetics Asia Innovation Zone Awards, this material is an exopolysaccharide that forms a biomimetic shield on the surface of the skin to protect against free radical activity, hydrocarbons and heavy metals and avoids PM2.5 adhesion. The result is more luminous and healthy looking skin within 7 days!

For more information about this ingredient go to: http://lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/index.php

Come back to this news page weekly to see an innovative product induction that was taken at the show: news.in-cosmetics.com

Video taken at in-cosmetics Asia – The leading exhibition and conference in Asia for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok in November – more info at www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

This green biomaterial forms a lamellar gel which behaves like an intra-cutaneous reservoir of AHA. It is able to diffuse AHAs in a progressive and controlled manner while avoiding inflammation so you get the visible benefits of AHAs without the irritation. Exfoliation performance is equivalent to AHA within 2 weeks. After 4 weeks, the skin is brighter, pigmentary spots, blackheads and acne scars disappear – all without any stinging sensation.

For more information about this ingredient go to http://www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com/en/

Come back to this news page weekly to see an innovative product induction that was taken at the show: news.in-cosmetics.com

Video taken at in-cosmetics Asia – The leading exhibition and conference in Asia for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok in November – more info at www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

CLR’s ProRenew Complex CLR acts on the most important biological feature in aging skin, its ability to renew itself quickly and effectively and to act as a biosensor. ProRenew Complex CLR is based on probiotic technology and positively influences both the speed and the quality of epidermal growth. The production of essential proteins and enzymes in skin quality is clearly increased, barrier function and cell cohesion improved and cell proliferation accelerated. After removing the upper layers of the skin by tape-stripping, both the skin renewal process and barrier recovery were accelerated.

For more information about this ingredient go to: http://www.clr-berlin.com/

Come back to this news page weekly to see an innovative product induction that was taken at the show: news.in-cosmetics.com

Video taken at in-cosmetics Asia – The leading exhibition and conference in Asia for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok in November – more info at www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

A natural and sustainable ingredient derived from the Peruvian pink pepper tree, Elixiance biofunctional is rich in phytoantioxidants, quercitrin and miquelianin. Containing a unique combination of antioxidants and highly active flavonols, the ingredient addresses epigenetics, providing the basis for pollution-shielding effects (in vitro, ex vivo), purifying effects with oil control (in vivo), pore refining (in vivo) and age-perfecting with less visible wrinkles (in vivo) and smoothness (in vivo) for overall fresher, younger-looking skin. Considered a panacea by the Incas, schinus molle leaf extract from the “Tree of Life” is today associated with skin benefits that aim at skin protection and ageperfection.

For more information about this ingredient go to: http://www.ashland.com/

Come back to this news page weekly to see an innovative product induction that was taken at the show: news.in-cosmetics.com

Video taken at in-cosmetics Asia – The leading exhibition and conference in Asia for personal care ingredients – takes place in Bangkok in November – more info at www.in-cosmeticsasia.com