Ingredients & Formulation | in-cosmetics Connect https://connect.in-cosmetics.com The in-cosmetics Group is the meeting point and learning hub for the personal care development community worldwide Thu, 13 Mar 2025 16:44:58 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/cropped-INCOS-Group_60x60_Logo-32x32.png Ingredients & Formulation | in-cosmetics Connect https://connect.in-cosmetics.com 32 32 120263668 Wellness and skincare: Ingredients bridging the gap https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/wellness-and-skincare-ingredients-bridging-the-gap/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/wellness-and-skincare-ingredients-bridging-the-gap/#respond Thu, 13 Mar 2025 13:24:31 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22931 In an era marked by heightened emotional stress and environmental pressures, prioritising wellness and self-care has become an essential part of daily life. In fact, 80% of global consumers now prioritise health as a lifestyle, with wellness-driven products increasingly being incorporated into self-care routines (Global Wellness Institute, 2023). This shift is also reshaping the beauty […]

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In an era marked by heightened emotional stress and environmental pressures, prioritising wellness and self-care has become an essential part of daily life.

In fact, 80% of global consumers now prioritise health as a lifestyle, with wellness-driven products increasingly being incorporated into self-care routines (Global Wellness Institute, 2023).

This shift is also reshaping the beauty industry, as wellness becomes a shared priority in skincare. Moving beyond products that focus solely on external appearance but addressing both external and internal stressors in the pursuit of longevity.

Wellness isn’t being recognised as just a passing trend, it’s becoming a lifestyle. 62% of consumers now seek skincare products that not only improve their appearance but also enhance emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023).

This growing demand for products that deliver both physical and mental health benefits together has led to the rise of wellness-driven skincare, which is pushing the boundaries of beauty and wellness.

Wellness-driven skincare is expected to dominate the market, reaching $200 billion by 2030 as consumers prioritise their overall health (Statista, 2023).

While regional regulations traditionally define skincare (under cosmetics) as products aimed solely at improving the physical appearance of the skin, this view is evolving, especially with technological advancements and ingredient efficacy.

Consumers are actively looking for solutions that go beyond just the surface of their skin. They want products that align with mindful, self-care rituals that support overall well-being and deliver internal benefits.

As a result, this beauty-wellness intersection is transforming the industry and formulators have new opportunities to innovate and meet this evolving demand.

The growing understanding of how ingredients affect skin function, including stress-induced skin concerns and the mind-skin connection, is pushing formulations beyond the surface. Wellness-driven skincare is creating new avenues for formulators to explore.

The Science Behind the Mind-Skin Connection

The mind-skin connection is more than just a buzzword, it’s scientifically studied. Chronic stress triggers the release of cortisol, a hormone that disrupts the skin barrier function, increases inflammation and accelerates ageing by breaking down collagen (Chen & Lyga, 2014).

A 2022 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that stress-induced cortisol can lead to dryness, sensitivity and even conditions like acne and eczema.

This growing understanding of how emotions impact skin health is driving demand for products that address both external and internal stressors.

For example, neurocosmetic ingredients like peptides have been shown to reduce stress-induced skin tension, offering a dual-action approach to skincare (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019).

Market Momentum: By the Numbers

The global wellness industry is valued at $5.6 trillion (2023), growing at a 10% CAGR, with skincare as a major driver (Global Wellness Institute).

Consumers now look for skincare products that also improve emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023), while adaptogen-infused product launches have seen significant growth in recent years, reflecting the rising demand (In-cosmetics Global, 2023).

In the Asia-Pacific region, where wellness-driven skincare is particularly popular, the market is projected to grow at an 8.5% CAGR through 2030 (Statista, 2023).

South Korean brands are leading the charge with products that combine hydration, anti-ageing and stress-relieving benefits.

Regulatory Considerations

As the demand for wellness-driven skincare grows, brands must balance innovation with compliance as regulatory compliance becomes increasingly important.

Claims like “stress-relieving” or “mood-boosting” must be substantiated, pushing formulators and manufacturers to invest in clinical trials and comply with regulations like EU 655/2013 to avoid being classified as medicinal products.

Furthermore, aligning with ISO 16128 standards for natural origin claims is essential for building consumer trust and meeting sustainability expectations.

The Feel-Good Factor: Self-Care as Empowerment

Modern consumers view skincare as a form of self-care, a daily act of mindfulness, promoting both skin health and emotional balance.

For formulators, this means understanding the growing mind-skin connection and pairing ingredients with calming or energising properties with tactile textures in their formulations.

This shift is creating new opportunities to innovate and aligns with the “emotional beauty” trend, where 74% of beauty consumers prefer “skin wellness” products over traditional anti-ageing claims (BeautyMatter, 2024).

Star Ingredients in Wellness Skincare Formulations

As wellness becomes a key driver in skincare, ingredients like adaptogens, neurocosmetics and aromatherapeutic ingredients are taking center stage. These ingredients help the skin respond to environmental and emotional stressors, which are increasingly linked to skin concerns.

Adaptogens

Already becoming a global stress-busting powerhouse, adaptogens are ingredients that help the skin adapt to stress, reduce inflammation and support long-term resilience.

In skincare, adaptogenic ingredients like Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) and Rhodiola Rosea are gaining popularity, with clinical evidence supporting their anti-inflammatory and oxidative damage-reducing properties (Panossian et al., 2021).

EU regulations (EC No 1223/2009) ensuring efficacy claims like “calming” or “resilience-boosting” are substantiated with robust clinical evidence. This reinforces consumer trust and ensures compliance with regional regulatory standards.

Neurocosmetics

Neurocosmetics aim to improve skin health while also enhancing emotional balance, relaxation and mental well-being through sensory experiences. These multifunctional ingredients interact with the skin’s sensory receptors, which can positively affect mood and reduce stress levels.

Neurocosmetics can trigger a positive response in the brain while supporting skin health, creating an essential part of wellness skincare.

For example, peptides can help reduce stress-induced tension, while Cannabidiol (CBD) is known for its skin-calming properties (Baswan et al., 2020).

Aromatherapeutic Ingredients

Mood-enhancing essential oils like chamomile extract and lavender oil provide aromatherapeutic benefits, reducing anxiety and promoting relaxation.

These ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into skincare (within recommended dermal limits) to boost mental health through sensual olfactory stimulation and enhancing the overall self-care experience.

The Future is Ingredients Bridging the Gap Offering Both Skincare and Wellness Benefits

The future of skincare is undoubtedly intertwined with wellness, with the growing mind-skin connection becoming a central focus for formulators and manufacturers.

As science and consumer demands evolve, the industry has an exciting opportunity to innovate, creating products that go beyond surface-level beauty and address overall health and well-being.

References:

Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169.

Baswan SM, Klosner AE, Glynn K, Rajgopal A, Malik K, Yim S, Stern N. Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Dec 8;13:927-942. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S286411. PMID: 33335413; PMCID: PMC7736837.

Panossian AG, Efferth T, Shikov AN, Pozharitskaya ON, Kuchta K, Mukherjee PK, Banerjee S, Heinrich M, Wu W, Guo DA, Wagner H. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress- and aging-related diseases. Med Res Rev. 2021 Jan;41(1):630-703. doi: 10.1002/med.21743. Epub 2020 Oct 25. PMID: 33103257; PMCID: PMC7756641.

Truong VL, Jeong WS. Red ginseng (Panax ginseng Meyer) oil: A comprehensive review of extraction technologies, chemical composition, health benefits, molecular mechanisms, and safety. J Ginseng Res. 2022 Mar;46(2):214-224. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2021.12.006. Epub 2021 Dec 17. PMID: 35509821; PMCID: PMC9058829.

Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066.

Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702. PMID: 34451799; PMCID: PMC8400021.

Ebrahimi H, Mardani A, Basirinezhad MH, Hamidzadeh A, Eskandari F. The effects of Lavender and Chamomile essential oil inhalation aromatherapy on depression, anxiety and stress in older community-dwelling people: A randomized controlled trial. Explore (NY). 2022 May-Jun;18(3):272-278. doi: 10.1016/j.explore.2020.12.012. Epub 2021 Jan 9. PMID: 33454232.


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Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

 

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Peptides – the next generation https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/peptides-the-next-generation/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/peptides-the-next-generation/#respond Thu, 13 Mar 2025 10:22:04 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22939 Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors? This article will look at […]

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Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors?

This article will look at some of the latest innovations in peptide technology and formulation to yield even better results for today’s discerning consumer. Not sure of the difference between peptides, proteins and collagen, or how they should be used in cosmetic formulas? Watch this video for some great background information and then learn more about the peptide innovations we’re seeing in the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #1: In silico and AI development

Research and development of cosmetic ingredients has utilized Artificial Intelligence (AI) and ‘in silico’ methods (meaning computer simulations or models) to generate peptide solutions like never before. Using AI and computer models, raw material suppliers like Lipotrue are creating optimized peptides, and combinations of peptides, to target specific enzymes and biomarkers to obtain their results.

Their latest launch, SP(AI)3 is turning heads by using such unique technology to create a hexapeptide that targets the 3 markers involved in sebum synthesis, pore size and inflammation for outstanding anti-acne results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #2: Cyclic peptides

Peptides are the combination of amino acids into – usually – chains. While still extremely small, these chains are typically linear and contain a specific subset of amino acids to yield a desired action. Cyclic peptides are a new technology used by cosmetic suppliers that sets these amino acids into a continuous ring, stabilised by hydrogen bonds, to give advanced activity, stability and efficacy.

An example of cyclic peptide formation aimed at counteracting the impact of wrinkle formation at various times in the day has been launched, again, by Lipotrue. Their material Poptide shows they are one of the key leaders in peptide innovations and technology for the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #3: Crystallisation

Peptides often come highly diluted in solutions to make them water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic formulas in the cool down stage of processing. Crystallisation, however, provides a super-concentrated powder form of the peptide that can easily be solubilized in a water loving solvent (like glycerin) and then added to formulas. Crystallisation involves taking a highly saturated solution where individual peptides come together and form a crystal-like concentrate.

Using patented crystallization techniques, Active Peptide Company have created their eye-catching blue GHK-Cu Copper Peptide powder, for advanced anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #4: Hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides

Peptides used in cosmetic formulas are either:

• tripeptides or hexapeptides that have been synthetically produced;
• extracts rich in certain peptides, where the efficacy of the extract can be directly traced back to the presence of the proteins/peptides present in the plant material; or
• hydrolysed proteins.

Of these, the use of hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides has been largely under-rated – until now. Hydrolysed proteins and hydrolysed silk are essentially the original protein broken down into peptide chains to make them small enough to be biomimetic with the skin and hair, and easy to incorporate into a cosmetic formula.

The original protein is far too large and insoluble to be of any use; but when it is in the hydrolysed form it can be delivered easily through personal care. In this form it provides the peptide building blocks that repair hair and skin and provide a protective, breathable film against further damage. The results are noticeable straight away, yet there is no residue.

Hydrolysed proteins are also highly substantive, meaning there are certain grades that are particularly resistant to wash off and have proven efficacy in rinse off cosmetic formulas. Don’t underestimate the power of these peptide sources – while not deep acting like tripeptides and hexapeptides, their activity at the surface of the skin or hair is incredibly important for barrier repair, maintenance and instantaneous results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #5: Multi-peptide combinations

Peptides are only needed in very small amount in cosmetic formulas, which is a good thing, because they are usually quite expensive. You only need a relatively small input of these materials to get great results, but they can add to the cost of a cosmetic formula quite significantly.

It is interesting to see that some of the more luxury brands, where performance is absolutely essential, are using combinations of peptides. They may describe their product as containing a peptide ‘cocktail’, or as a peptide ‘blend’, or even multi-peptide serum like in this example.

Consumers will readily pay more for a product with clinically proven efficacy, and these blended peptide formulas can often yield outstanding multi-faceted results from the tiny but effective peptide molecules they contain.

Keep up with peptide innovations in your cosmetic formulas…

While I’ve summarised the latest trends for you, it is up to you to speak directly with your suppliers and check out the Innovation Zone at your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition. You’ll always see the best and latest innovations there, and dozens of suppliers with peptide technology, and perhaps the next best thing, at these amazing events.

Happy formulating!


Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

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From byproducts to beauty: Mastering the journey of upcycling https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/mastering-the-journey-of-upcycling/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/mastering-the-journey-of-upcycling/#respond Mon, 17 Feb 2025 08:45:54 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22890 (Sponsored Content) At Gaia Tech, our mission is to transform agrifood byproducts into high-value ingredients. In collaboration with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors, we address the growing demand for sustainable and effective raw materials in the cosmetic industry. From Research to Market: Gaia Tech’s Approach to Industry Challenges Initially, we developed a methodology to transform […]

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(Sponsored Content)

At Gaia Tech, our mission is to transform agrifood byproducts into high-value ingredients. In collaboration with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors, we address the growing demand for sustainable and effective raw materials in the cosmetic industry.

From Research to Market: Gaia Tech’s Approach to Industry Challenges

Initially, we developed a methodology to transform olive oil production sidestreams into high quality ingredients:

  • Phenoliva Active: Derived from olive pomace, this antioxidant extract is rich in hydroxytyrosol, a bioactive compound known for its anti-aging or soothing properties. Comprehensive testing has been conducted on its composition, toxicology, and stability, including final formulation examples. Clinical studies are currently ongoing and data is available upon request.
  • Phenoliva CleanChar: An activated olive biochar initially developed as a detoxifying agent for face masks, the powder has since gained interest as a pigment. Compositional and toxicology data is available, as well as formulation examples like beauty mask and mascara.

One of the significant challenges in promoting upcycled ingredients is ensuring they match the performance of conventional materials. For Phenoliva Active, overcoming the hurdles of color and odor standards was crucial. We are tackling these challenges using advanced filtration and encapsulation technologies to optimize these organoleptic properties. In the process of refining and customizing ingredients, various industry partners have underscored our ability to meet high-performance benchmarks, and praised Gaia Tech’s antioxidant technology as “the best they have tested so far”.

Upcycling Innovation: A Proven Process Tailored to Cosmetics

Building on our proven process to develop upcycled ingredients – from sourcing raw materials and conducting compositional analysis, to pilot production trials and forecasting production capacity – we expand this approach to other valuables sources of natural ingredients like apple pomace or grape marc. We offer two types of collaborations to partners:

  • Upcycled Ingredients: The olive-based ingredients are available in small quantities.
  • Development Services: Ready to partner up to bring innovative ingredients to the market.

We already started looking into a number of local and international sidestreams for new ingredients. Let us know what function you are looking for to develop innovations.

Looking Ahead: A Suitable Partner For Upcycled Ingredients

Gaia Tech provides expertise in raw material sourcing, chemical extraction and analysis, prototype production and formulation, engineering design and upscale preparation. With fully equipped laboratories and state-of-the-art pilot production facilities in Bern and Monaco, we are uniquely positioned to collaborate with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors seeking to expand their upcycled ingredient and product portfolios.

Are you curious about the ingredients we are working on and their transformative effects on final products? Visit us at In-Cosmetics booth 12C07, explore our offerings at www.gaiatech.ch, or reach out directly at hello@gaiatech.ch.

About the Authors:

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla Phd

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla earned a PhD in Environmental and Bioanalytical Chemistry. As a Senior Scientist with 10+ years of experience, she is specializing in chemical analysis and extraction. She is also experienced in formulating personal care products.

Samuel Bühlmann

Samuel Bühlmann holds a Master’s degree in Business Information Systems and has a track record of working with startups across various sectors. In 2023, he joined Gaia Tech as a co-founder, where he currently leads the communication and business development initiatives.

 

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The do’s and don’ts of how to source cosmetic ingredients https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/dosandontscosmeticingredientsourcing/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/dosandontscosmeticingredientsourcing/#respond Mon, 10 Feb 2025 15:31:41 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22863 It’s essential to source good quality ingredients when making cosmetic formulas, because you can’t make a chocolate cake without cocoa, and let’s face it, carob is not a suitable replacement. The same concept applies to sourcing cosmetic ingredients: what may seem the same material from different suppliers could vary significantly enough to render a batch […]

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It’s essential to source good quality ingredients when making cosmetic formulas, because you can’t make a chocolate cake without cocoa, and let’s face it, carob is not a suitable replacement.

The same concept applies to sourcing cosmetic ingredients: what may seem the same material from different suppliers could vary significantly enough to render a batch unstable or unsuitable, and turn a high performing product into nothing special.

You also can’t make certain formulas perform the way you want them to without sourcing from the correct supplier, and sometimes they may be a little tricky to find.

So, let’s look at the do’s and don’ts of cosmetic ingredient sourcing to help you find the contacts you need, and source exactly the right materials, to make sure your formulas turn out great, every time!

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #1: Expect to need multiple suppliers

This is the most important aspect of creating unique and high-performing cosmetic formulas. I often speak to those new to the industry and they are dismayed when they need to contact 4 or more suppliers to get the ingredients they need for just 1 formula.

But this is completely normal! While there may the occasional time where you can source everything you need from just a few suppliers, it is more common for you to need to go to at least 4 different cosmetic ingredient suppliers (and sometimes many more) in order to get the exact materials you need.

Remember to keep economies of scale in mind: where you can use multi-functional or core functional materials – such as humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives and antioxidants – in multiple formulas, then this is a great idea. However, there will be many actives where you’ll just have to source all required options to ensure you have a unique formula.

Watch this webinar where I talk about needing multiple suppliers and building your supply network.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #2: Expand your network

The next most important step is to build your supplier network. Visit in-cosmetics trade shows, your local society conferences and your local cosmetic supplier days and make sure you meet the different distributors, and who they represent.

That way, when you need a certain material, you know exactly which distributor you should contact for information and a sample.

Remember, the suppliers for different materials varies by your location, so its important that you are finding your nearest distributor or material representative to get the answers and support you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #3: Be specific with trade names

A rose by any other name may have smelt as sweet to Shakespeare, but a material by its INCI name could be any of a dozen different grades to various suppliers.

When sourcing cosmetic ingredients, you need to be specific about trade names, because this could make a huge difference in a formula.

For example, Lubrizol suppliers various carbomers and acrylates, so you can’t just go to them and ask for ‘carbomer’ or an acrylate cross polymer because:

• Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 all have the INCI name ‘carbomer’ but with different play times and after feels;

• Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 all have the INCI name ‘acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer’; however the Carbopol range have very different skin feels to the Pemulen range and suit very different products. Carbopol Ultrez 20, for example, suits clear foaming formulas and gels; Carbopol Ultrez 21 suits styling gels and hydroalcohol gels; while the Pemulen polymers are best for creams and lotions depending on the viscosity required of the finished product.

In other words, just using a ‘carbomer’ or polyacrylate based on INCI name could dramatically alter the skin feel and stability of the finished product… hence using trade names is essential when speaking with suppliers to get the exact grade of material you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #4: Avoid e-bay and Amazon

If you want quality cosmetic ingredients, then you need to speak directly with your suppliers.

While it might seem like a good idea to trawl various sites for the best price, you could be purchasing a very wrong material (read why: revisit tip 3), or not get crucial information for regulatory and quality reasons (read why: go to tip 5).

Your cosmetic formula and finished product must have the required batch to batch consistency, which starts with quality ingredients, and that means going direct to reputable suppliers.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #5: Avoid suppliers who don’t provide good paperwork

Make sure your supplier can provide at least the following information, accurately and promptly:

• The INCI name, compositional information and CAS number. The INCI name and CAS number should match what is listed on the CosIng website.

• A recommended input rate appropriate for cosmetic formulas based on testing and/or regulations.

• A technical data sheet providing processing and sourcing information sufficient to use the material in a suitable way to ensure stability in a finished formula, and so you can determine how natural or synthetic the material is.

• If it is an active ingredient, the technical data sheet should also provide suitable efficacy data and clinical results to determine the best input and product form for you to achieve the same results.

• An MSDS with all safety, compositional ranges and disposal information.

If a supplier can’t provide you with this information, then you should look for another supplier.

If you follow these 5 tips, you’ll soon be in touch with the right suppliers to source quality cosmetic ingredients every time.

You’ll also find the best cosmetic ingredient suppliers will be in touch with you when there is a new launch or innovation so you can stay ahead of the pack with the latest cosmetic formulation launches.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The do’s and don’ts of how to source cosmetic ingredients first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/dosandontscosmeticingredientsourcing/feed/ 0 22863 Rethinking product innovation: A multi-functional approach https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/formulation/rethinking-product-innovation-a-multi-functional-approach/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/formulation/rethinking-product-innovation-a-multi-functional-approach/#respond Thu, 30 Jan 2025 11:39:02 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22791 The start of the year presents an opportunity for the cosmetics and personal care industry to reflect on past innovations, identify new gaps and cultivate fresh ideas. Product innovation refers to developing new or significantly improved products to meet market demands, address existing problems or create entirely new markets. According to the Beauty and Personal […]

The post Rethinking product innovation: A multi-functional approach first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> The start of the year presents an opportunity for the cosmetics and personal care industry to reflect on past innovations, identify new gaps and cultivate fresh ideas.

Product innovation refers to developing new or significantly improved products to meet market demands, address existing problems or create entirely new markets.

According to the Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report (2023), global sales in this sector are projected to reach $937.1 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.7%.

It is a critical driver of business growth and competitive advantage, where consumer preferences and scientific and technological advancements are constantly evolving.

Yet, as consumer preferences continue to evolve, product innovations must also adapt – not only to meet these demands but also to address the pressing challenges of rapid innovation cycles, product oversaturation, consumer fatigue and the environmental toll of overconsumption.

Multi-functional Products

The skincare sector in particular is witnessing a key transition towards multi-functional products favouring efficacy and substantiation, efficiency over complexity, driven by busy lifestyles and a desire to reduce environmental impact.
Multi-functional products are developed to address multiple concerns and/or provide multiple benefits within a single formulation. Examples include:

• A moisturiser that hydrates, brightens and protects against UV damage.
• A serum that combines anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.
• A cleanser with exfoliating and moisturising capabilities.

Why It Matters in Skincare

• Efficiency: Saves time by reducing the number of steps in a routine.
• Convenience: Combines multiple benefits in one product.
• Sustainability: Reduces overconsumption, packaging waste and resource usage.

These products are reshaping product innovation and influencing purchasing behaviours by offering thoughtful and purposeful solutions.

According to Credence Research (2023), the global market for functional cosmetics, including multi-functional skincare, is projected to grow to $68.1 billion by 2032, reflecting a CAGR of 3.06%. Similarly, the hybrid makeup market, which includes products offering skincare benefits alongside cosmetic functions, is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1% by 2030 (Grand View Research, 2023).

Despite the rapid pace of product launches, these figures underscore a notable consumer shift – people want fewer products that do more. For formulators and manufacturers, there is a clear opportunity to drive innovation by developing impactful products that withstand the test of time. Incorporating compatible ingredients into a single formulation demonstrates how multi-functional solutions can deliver both efficacy and convenience.

Challenges in Rethinking Innovation

While the advantages of multi-functional products are obvious, they present both opportunities and challenges for formulators and manufacturers, requiring careful consideration of various factors:

• Ingredient Compatibility

Combining multiple active ingredients into one stable and effective formulation is a complex task, requiring pH balancing and delivery optimisation to maintain stability and efficacy.

• Consumer Expectations

Consumers have raised the bar for communication and are digitally informed, they expect content that is fast, relevant and authentically will keep them engaged and coming back for more. Formulators and manufacturers alike are encouraged to communicate the science behind their multi-functional products, avoiding unsubstantiated claims.

• Advanced Technologies

Delivery systems can enhance the performance of combined actives. These systems ensure that each active ingredient retains its potency and targets the skin effectively.

Sustainability

True innovation also means considering the entire product lifecycle. From sourcing sustainable raw materials to incorporating eco-friendly packaging, every step should reflect a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Despite these challenges, several strategies can help formulators and manufacturers deliver impactful innovations.

Solutions: Key Elements for Success

1. Synergistic Ingredient Combinations

Successful multi-functional products rely on synergistic ingredient pairings.

For example:

• Niacinamide and Peptides: Working together, these ingredients boost the skin’s barrier function and support skin longevity.
• Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: This combination delivers intense hydration and reinforces the skin’s natural barrier, effectively addressing dryness.

2. Advanced Delivery Systems

Technological advancements can allow formulators to combine ingredients delivering protective benefits without compromising stability. They allow formulators to use fewer raw materials with higher yields, minimising environmental impact while maximising product effectiveness.

3. Sustainability at the Core

Brands can reduce their environmental footprint by utilising refillable packaging to minimise waste and incorporating biodegradable materials into both packaging and product design. This approach has the potential to lower raw material usage, shipping costs and development expenses by streamlining ingredient selection and considering the entire product lifecycle of a product from its foundation.

Marketing Opportunities

• Ingredient combinations such as exfoliating acids and antioxidants demonstrate the growing demand for multi-functional products by refining pores, brightening skin and providing hydration. A single formulation can also tackle elasticity, pigmentation and overall skin health, making it even more appealing to consumers.

• Target demographics like millennials make up a significant proportion of the population in many countries around the world and prioritise products with substantiated claims and long-term benefits.

Rethinking product innovation is an essential strategy for staying competitive in today’s cosmetic and personal care landscape. Multi-functional, multi-tasking skincare offers a clear pathway to address consumer demands for simplicity, efficacy and sustainability while reducing environmental impact.

By adopting advanced technologies or methods of delivery, prioritising sustainability and focusing on ingredient synergy, formulators and manufacturers can shape a future where innovation aligns with values.

Now is the perfect moment to rethink product innovation that resonates with consumers and redefines industry standards.

References:

1. Credence Research. (2023). Functional Cosmetics Market Growth.
2. Grand View Research. (2023). Hybrid Makeup Market Report.
3. Harris Williams. (2023). Consumer Spending Trends in Beauty.
4. Ainapure, A. (2023). Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report

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Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

 

The post Rethinking product innovation: A multi-functional approach first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>
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Discovering the power of senolytics in the cosmetic industry https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/discovering-the-power-of-senolytics-in-the-cosmetic-industry/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/discovering-the-power-of-senolytics-in-the-cosmetic-industry/#respond Tue, 14 Jan 2025 11:00:06 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22734 The desire to slow down the ageing process and maintain youthful, radiant skin has driven the global demand for anti-ageing products for decades. From creams and serums to advanced dermatological treatments, the cosmetic industry has seen an explosion of products claiming to reverse or delay the effects of ageing. One of the most exciting developments […]

The post Discovering the power of senolytics in the cosmetic industry first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>
The desire to slow down the ageing process and maintain youthful, radiant skin has driven the global demand for anti-ageing products for decades. From creams and serums to advanced dermatological treatments, the cosmetic industry has seen an explosion of products claiming to reverse or delay the effects of ageing.

One of the most exciting developments in this field is the emergence of senolytics, a class of compounds originally studied in longevity science for their potential to improve overall health and delay age-related decline.

What are senolytics?

Senolytics are compounds that specifically target and eliminate senescent cells, often referred to as “zombie cells.” These dysfunctional cells stop dividing but remain metabolically active, releasing harmful inflammatory signals that accelerate aging process, disrupt surrounding tissue and contributing to visible skin issues like wrinkles, decreased elasticity, and uneven skin tone. By clearing these cells, senolytics help restore balance, rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.

How do senolytics work in skincare?

Senolytics in cosmetics represent a significant departure from traditional approaches to anti-ageing skincare.

While most conventional products focus on hydration, collagen stimulation, or antioxidant protection – which target the skin’s surface or just beneath it – senolytics go deeper, addressing aging at its core.

Senolytics target the source of chronic skin ageing by clearing senescent cells. By eliminating these aged cells, they reduce inflammation and allow healthier cells to thrive, creating an optimal environment for skin regeneration. The result is enhanced cellular renewal, with skin’s natural repair mechanisms functioning more effectively.

Moreover, removing senescent cells reduces the pro-inflammatory cytokines they secrete, calming the skin and potentially reducing redness or irritation.
Incorporating senolytics into skincare products requires advanced formulation techniques to ensure their stability, efficacy, and safe delivery.

These powerful compounds can be effectively utilized in various types of skincare formulations. For example, they can be included in anti-ageing serums that target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin, helping to restore a more youthful appearance.

Senolytics can also be incorporated into brightening treatments aimed at reducing uneven skin tone and enhancing the skin’s natural radiance. Additionally, they are valuable in recovery products, designed to calm inflammation and support sensitive skin, helping to maintain overall skin health and balance.

Examples of senolytics in cosmetic products

The potential benefits of senolytics have not gone unnoticed by the cosmetic industry, and several brands are beginning to explore their use in skincare formulations.

While the field is still developing, certain natural senolytic ingredients are gaining popularity:

Quercetin – a flavonoid found in fruits, vegetables, and plants. Quercetin has gained attention for its senolytic properties. It works by targeting and eliminating senescent cells, making it an attractive ingredient in anti-ageing serums and creams.

Fisetin – another flavonoid with senolytic activity. Fisetin has been shown to reduce signs of ageing in animal studies and is being explored for inclusion in cosmetic formulations aimed at improving skin health and appearance.

Natural extracts and botanicals – several natural ingredients (grape extract, alpine willowherb, green tea extract, pomegranate extract, etc.) are being tested for their potential senolytic effects. These plant-based ingredients are valued for their ability to promote skin rejuvenation by supporting cellular renewal and combating oxidative stress, offering promise as complementary components in advanced anti-aging formulations.

Why should brands consider senolytics?

As consumers become more educated about skincare, they demand solutions that go beyond surface-level results. Senolytics align perfectly with this trend, offering a unique opportunity for brands to stand out with a scientifically advanced, research-backed approach to anti-ageing.

The demand for sustainable beauty products is also on the rise, and some natural compounds fit within this trend, offering an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. By incorporating senolytics into their product lines, brands can appeal to a growing base of consumers seeking both efficacy and sustainability.

Future directions

While research on senolytics is still in its early stages, its implications for skincare are vast. As science progresses, we may see the development of combination therapies, where senolytics are paired with other powerful ingredients, such as retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants, to create a comprehensive approach to skin rejuvenation. These synergistic formulations could deliver more effective anti-aging benefits compared to standalone products.

Customization of skincare routines may also become more common, with personalized products tailored to individual skin concerns and ageing patterns. The growing understanding of cellular senescence and its impact on ageing will likely lead to more personalized skincare treatments.
Products may be developed to target the specific types of senescent cells present in an individual’s skin, enhancing the effectiveness of anti-aging solutions.

Beyond combating the visible signs of ageing, senolytics could offer solutions for other skin conditions associated with inflammation and cellular dysfunction, such as hyperpigmentation and chronic sensitivity. This expanding scope underscores the potential of senolytics to transform not only anti-ageing strategies but also broader aspects of skin health and care.

Senolytics represent an exciting frontier in the cosmetic industry, offering a novel and scientifically-backed approach to combat ageing. By targeting and eliminating senescent cells, these compounds have the potential to transform the way we think about skincare and anti-ageing.

As research progresses and more products incorporate senolytic ingredients, consumers can look forward to more effective, long-term solutions for maintaining youthful, glowing skin. With their ability to reduce inflammation, promote skin regeneration, and boost collagen production, senolytics could very well become the next big thing in the quest for age-defying beauty.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Discovering the power of senolytics in the cosmetic industry first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/discovering-the-power-of-senolytics-in-the-cosmetic-industry/feed/ 0 22734 The microbiome: latest cosmetic advances https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-microbiome-latest-cosmetic-advances/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-microbiome-latest-cosmetic-advances/#respond Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:34:09 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22593 Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products. As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin. This blog will look at some of the more recent […]

The post The microbiome: latest cosmetic advances first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products.

As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin.

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical! Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vytrus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy to speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The microbiome: latest cosmetic advances first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/the-microbiome-latest-cosmetic-advances/feed/ 0 22593 Luxe body care formulas https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/luxe-body-care-formulas/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/luxe-body-care-formulas/#respond Tue, 08 Oct 2024 12:07:36 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22503 Throughout 2024 we have seen an increased interest from consumers in luxury body care – formulas that go beyond just standard moisturising and feel amazing during and after application. As this trend will continue into 2025, lets look at what it takes to create luxe body care formulas… Luxe body care starts with a gentler, […]

The post Luxe body care formulas first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> Throughout 2024 we have seen an increased interest from consumers in luxury body care – formulas that go beyond just standard moisturising and feel amazing during and after application. As this trend will continue into 2025, lets look at what it takes to create luxe body care formulas…

Luxe body care starts with a gentler, more hydrating clean

Many luxe body care ranges start with a cleansing product with mildness claims beyond just the foaming agents. Gentle body wash products can include:

  • micellar body wash formulas: use low inputs of non-ionic surfactants to provide just enough foam to give a luxe-feeling clean, without leaving the skin feeling stripped of its natural oil balance. Non-ionic surfactant inputs can be as low as 3%w/w active content and work particularly well in self-foaming dispensers.
  • oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas: oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas both need special materials, such as Sucragel and Micromulse foam (both from Alchemy ingredients) used at 25-30%w/w to come together. These innovative functional ingredients enable the rest of the formula to use oil-based ingredients and yet still wash from the skin without an oily residue.
  • foaming shower oil formulas: these cleansing formulas use a super fatting agent at a much higher input than normal (around 12-15%w/w) to provide a very mild, moisturising clean and creamy foam, along with a primary surfactant and matching input of lipids.

With these types of cleansing formulas, the skin already feels more hydrated and smoother than using traditionally built high-foaming body wash, for a more sensorially pleasing feel.

Proven hydration and elegant sensory essential in luxe body care formulas

Standard body lotion formulas use between 7-9%w/w lipid input, but that is not enough to meet the desired results of luxury lotion formulas. Not only is a higher lipid input needed – usually around 9-12%w/w – but the choice of lipids is incredibly important. They should be sustainable, ethically sourced plant oils, usually of an exotic or at least widely popular variety, with nutrient benefits to support skin hydration and repair. The combination of oils used must also provide a sensorial delight and leave the skin feeling soft and silky but never greasy.

In addition, the choice of emulsifiers used is incredibly important. Emulsifiers used in luxury body care should not only boost the stability of the formula, but its sensory aspects as well. It is an added boost if they can support the product story with clinically proven hydration.

Emulsifiers that can provide a boost to the product story or lasting hydration are many and varied; speak with your suppliers to find out about their product offerings. Some of the more interesting inclusions are the EmulsiPure range by AE Chemie, where plant derived emulsifiers are paired with various types of plant derivatives (for example, hemp oil, marula oil and green coffee extract, to name a few), for additional plant-based benefits. The Emulium range by Gattefosse contains a variety of choices all with the focus being on the sensory profile of the finished emulsion. Lucas Meyer also has a range of lecithin-based emulsifiers with varying sensory profiles, such as their Heliosoft, Heliofeel and Biophilic ranges. See how lecithin can improve the skin feel of your emulsions in this video.

Body care formulas get active

There is an ever-growing trend towards wanting ‘more’ from body care formulas these days. Lasting hydration is expected, but even more than that now: consumers are looking for their body care formulas to address very specific skin conditions and needs.

One example is to repair UV damage. Some great ingredient additions for this specific concern include vitamin B3, ectoin, beta-glucan and anti-oxidant rich extracts. More advanced actives include Repair Complex CLR (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium) and Gatuline Skin-Repair (Gattefosse). Sun protection is also an increasing trend to stop the damage in the first place – non-greasy, long wearing SPF50 body care is essential these days when facing the environment.

Another rapidly growing trend is for anti-acne and keratolytic performance. Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids were normally only used in facial care but have now been found in an increasing number of body care formulas. These may be in a cleansing or exfoliating form, and may also be included in leave-on lotion formulas for lasting activity as well.

Last but by no means least are skin rejuvenation and hyperpigmentation actives. We’re seeing active ingredients traditionally used in face creams now appearing as hero ingredients in body care. Look for actives that have particular activity on age spots and skin-firming when adding to your body care formulas. Investigate Delentigo (Mibelle AG Biochemistry), Wakamine (Givaudan Active Beauty) and Gatuline Spot-Light (Gattefosse) for use in body care products intended to lighten age spots specifically.

For skin firming, try Gatuline In-Tense (Gattefosse), Slimming Factor Karkade (Lipoid Kosmetik), Asiaticoside (Seppic), Regu-Slim (dsm-firmenich), Sculptessence (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) and Zirhafirm (Provital). Check out this video for more body firming formula ideas and this anti-cellulite cream for more actives with body smoothing efficacy data.

Add a touch of shimmer…

Depending on who your body lotion formula is for, a touch of shimmer can give additional effects. We’re not talking a party-level input, but instead, a subtle shimmer that adds to the appeal of a product. For Asian skin types, a pearly effect is highly desirable; for Caucasian skin types, a gentle glow. All skin types look healthier when more supple, so when hydrated and a very small input of effects pigment is present, it can give the final formula a little something more.

Aromatic appeal important too

As with all body care, the way it smells is incredibly important. The aroma of a product formula is not only the first thing noticed by most consumers, it can also be a lasting reminder of why they love their luxury skin care. Just remember when formulating luxe, the aromatic profile needs to match the target market very closely and is generally more complex than budget body care. Speak with your fragrance supplier for highly substantive materials and test your intended aromas on your target market to make sure it’s as desirable as the rest of the product formula so that they want to wear it every day.

With such a wide and diverse market of users, luxury body care is growing rapidly. Make your next body care formulas luxe with these formulation tips to meet the demand for this booming product category.

Happy formulating!

 

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Luxe body care formulas first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/luxe-body-care-formulas/feed/ 0 22503 Formulating waterless cosmetics: the essentials + the latest innovations! https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/formulating-waterless-cosmetics-the-essentials-the-latest-innovations/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/formulating-waterless-cosmetics-the-essentials-the-latest-innovations/#respond Mon, 26 Aug 2024 23:25:57 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22403 Formulating waterless cosmetics has continued to be a growing trend as consumers want more eco-friendly, travel ready, and low waste personal care products. Just what product forms work for waterless cosmetics, and how are they put together? Read on to find out… How to formulate waterless bar formulas – where it all began We first […]

The post Formulating waterless cosmetics: the essentials + the latest innovations! first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> Formulating waterless cosmetics has continued to be a growing trend as consumers want more eco-friendly, travel ready, and low waste personal care products. Just what product forms work for waterless cosmetics, and how are they put together? Read on to find out…

How to formulate waterless bar formulas – where it all began

We first started seeing waterless bar formulas from mostly innovative, eco-friendly Indie skincare brands over five years ago. The concept was simple: formulate a concentrated ‘bar’ that consumers could wet just prior to application, then apply as if it was a regular liquid product.

However, waterless bar formulas proved to be far more difficult to create, in the early days at least. In order to create a bar form, you not only need to take out the water portion of the formula, but then increase the functional content of the formula so that it will work properly when wetted, and make the final product set just right. If the bar is too hard, it will crumble, crack, or be too hard to work with, even when water is added. If the bar is too soft, it can be deemed ineffective by consumers or again, too difficult to work with. The trick with waterless bar formulas is therefore to get the right setting and melting point for ease of use and manufacture, whilst also achieving the right consistency, hardness and performance during consumer use.

Here is a guide to get you started for a cleansing bar:

  • 20 -40%w/w anionic foaming cleanser in powder or wax form only – use the lower side of input for facial bars, or the high side for shampoos. Watch how to make waterless face & body wash here.
  • 10 – 35%w/w lipid content – this will depend on whether you are formulating a face cleansing bar (more oil), body wash (mid range input) or shampoo (low input).
  • 5-7%w/w glycerin – this helps with flexibility of the bar, foaming and skin feel.
  • 10-25%w/w non-ionic surfactant/emulsifier with a high HLB value in waxy or powder form only. Use the lower input for shampoos and body wash, and the higher input for facial cleansers. This material will also help you adjust the final hardness of the bar, once set. See how input differs when formulating waterless shampoo bars, here.
  • 11 – 35% superfatting and solubilising agents. These can be adjusted to help create the desired end feel after wash off, as well as alter the hardness of the bar.
  • 1-2%w/w glycerin based extracts – to boost marketing story, performance and skin feel.
  • 1-2%w/w fragrance, essential oil, antioxidants or micas for sparkle.

You don’t need preservatives in a bar product as there is not sufficient water present to enable microbial growth; but you will need antioxidant if you are using natural plant oils and essential oils. Active ingredients can be added if they can tolerate the heat of processing.

As you can see, it takes a bit of trial and error to get the balance right between performance, hardness and consumer acceptance. It’s even trickier when you start formulating waterless conditioner bars and waterless moisturising bars!

Fast track your trials with this Formulating Waterless Bars workshop series, which gives very specific guidance based on product type.

How to formulate waterless foaming powders

Since hardness and form is not an issue with a powder product, these are much easier waterless formulas to create. In this case, you need to source powder foaming materials only, then use them in the following ratios:

  • 10-25%w/w primary powder surfactant: if using a sulphate, and especially if creating a waterless face wash powder, use the lower input. If using isethionates, and for shampoo products, you can use a higher input.
  • 10 – 15%w/w secondary mild surfactant: choose a mild powder surfactant to boost foam and gentleness, such as a sulfosuccinate.
  • 20%+w/w starch: this helps the product remain free-flowing throughout its shelf life and also boosts a mild skin-feel on application.
  • 3-5%w/w fast hydrating gum or polymer: this helps the product feel silky soft on application but also helps the product gel quickly for easy spreading and great foaming. Having this material helps ‘hold’ the product together when it is first wetted so that it doesn’t just fall off the skin while being applied.
  • 1-2%w/w lipid, fragrance or antioxidant (optional): if adding these materials, you will need to spray them onto the powder while being mixed in a ribbon blender.

It is largely a matter of trying different inputs of your chosen materials then testing them with water to see which combination yields the desired results on application. Watch how to formulate a waterless foaming powder here. You can also get innovative with product forms, like waterless powder cleansing masks, like this one. Since there is no water present, preservatives are not needed either.

How to formulate waterless liquid concentrates

These are a newer ‘waterless’ product to enter the market and are again a bit trickier to put together. They are commonly not completely waterless, but instead, a very low water version of the normal presentation of the product, so they can be mixed with more water just before application and then used as normal. Packaging these products for suitable dispensing and explaining how a consumer should use them is the trickiest part with these products, because they are more costly to produce given their concentrated form – but cheaper in the long run, if a consumer uses them correctly.

Waterless liquid concentrates can also be quite viscous, almost paste like – so you may need to again fiddle with the form of these products to make them easy to use.

To formulate waterless liquid concentrates, you will need to subtract the water from your formula, so you are left with just functional materials. This means all functional ingredients will appear to have quite a high input compared to the water containing version. Here is a guide to inputs:

  • Approximately 35%w/w of a 30% anionic surfactant plus amphoteric surfactant. There is water present in these materials which is why liquid concentrate products are not truly waterless, but instead, ‘no water added’.
  • 5-8%w/w of a non-ionic surfactant or superfatting agent to boost foam and mildness.
  • 5-8%w/w of a polyquaternium material in liquid form.
  • 15%w/w glycerin is important to boost foam, increase mildness and improve skin feel on wash off.
  • 1-3%w/w of a fast-hydrating gum or polymer to help hold the formula together when it is mixed with water just before use.
  • Around 1%w/w fragrance, essential oils and antioxidant if desired. A preservative is necessary in these formulas because there is still water present in the surfactants and polyquaternium.

It can take a few trials in the lab before you get the form of these products just right – careful of them becoming too thick! Watch how to put together a shampoo concentrate here.

Go waterless today!

Consumers are increasingly demanding eco-friendly products and waterless cosmetic formulas are one of the best ways to deliver this to them! Just remember to follow the guides and be prepared for a few extra trials in the lab to get the form and performance just right. Remember to communicate the ideal mixing ratios on your packaging too, for ultimate consumer satisfaction.

Happy formulating!

 

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post Formulating waterless cosmetics: the essentials + the latest innovations! first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/formulating-waterless-cosmetics-the-essentials-the-latest-innovations/feed/ 0 22403 Nutricosmetics: Beauty from within https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/nutricosmetics-beauty-from-within/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/nutricosmetics-beauty-from-within/#respond Mon, 19 Aug 2024 10:49:14 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22366 Is beauty only skin deep? The answer is no. The emerging scientific research and innovation indicate that the secret to achieving a radiant appearance is not just superficial; it indeed lies within 1, 2, 3, 4. You are what you eat Good health begins with a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients, vitamins, and minerals. […]

The post Nutricosmetics: Beauty from within first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

Is beauty only skin deep?

The answer is no. The emerging scientific research and innovation indicate that the secret to achieving a radiant appearance is not just superficial; it indeed lies within 1, 2, 3, 4.

You are what you eat

Good health begins with a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients, vitamins, and minerals. In recent years, especially during the pandemic, this understanding has deepened, leading consumers toward a more health-conscious lifestyle that now extends to their beauty routines as well.

As consumers of all ages seek natural, well-being-oriented solutions to promote their health and enhance their glow, nutricosmetics have surged in popularity, becoming a popular trend in the beauty market.

This innovative approach to beauty signifies the importance of nutrition, highlighting how specific vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants can contribute to skin, hair, and nail health from the inside out. With many nutricosmetics delivered orally, they provide an effective way of enhancing beauty from within, making them a convenient addition to daily wellness routines.

What are nutricosmetics?

They are dietary supplements or functional foods that are formulated to promote beauty and health from the inside out. They typically contain a combination of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds designed to improve skin, hair, and nail health.

The idea behind nutricosmetics is that what we consume can significantly impact our external appearance, addressing issues such as aging, dryness, and skin conditions by nourishing the body from within.

Unlike cosmetics applied topically, most nutricosmetics are taken orally, facilitating a systemic and better absorption of essential nutrients. Optimized for the demands of modern life, these products come in various formats, including tablets, capsules, softgels, powders, gummies, and beverages, making them accessible and convenient for anyone seeking to enhance their beauty routine through nutrition.

Focus areas shaping the nutricosmetics industry.

A variety of ingredients & concepts are driving the growth and effectiveness of nutricosmetics, each playing a vital role in enhancing skin, hair, nail health from within 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10;

Essential vitamins, and minerals: Vitamins A, C, E, and minerals like zinc and selenium can improve skin complexion by boosting skin elasticity, reducing inflammation, and protecting against environmental & lifestyle stressors.

Collagen: Protein consumption supports collagen production, which is vital for maintaining firm, youthful skin.

Antioxidants: Abundant in berries, leafy greens, nuts, and certain algae, provide a spectrum of benefits for skin health, including Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), which protects skin cells from oxidative damage, promotes collagen production, and improves texture and elasticity; glutathione, known for its skin-brightening properties that reduce pigmentation and enhance radiance while combating free radicals; resveratrol, which offers anti-aging benefits by protecting skin cells from UV rays and pollution; curcumin, which has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritation and reduce acne; astaxanthin, a carotenoid from microalgae that improves elasticity and protects against UV damage; and polyphenols, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote an even skin tone, highlighting the essential role these compounds play in maintaining a healthy complexion.

Hydration through nutrition: Water based liquid shots, effervescent beverages, and juices from cucumber, watermelon, and citrus fruits can contribute to maintaining plump, hydrated skin.

Gut health and beauty: A balanced gut microbiome, supported by probiotics and prebiotics, can significantly impact skin health by promoting proper digestion and nutrient absorption. Skin benefits include, but are not limited to, a reduction in acne, redness, and inflammation.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids for Skin Softness: Oral supplements containing omega-3 fatty acids, derived from sources like salmon, flaxseeds, and walnuts, contribute to smoother, more supple skin by maintaining the skin’s lipid barrier.

Detoxification: Products rich in detoxifying ingredients, such as leafy greens, garlic, and green tea, help cleanse the body of toxins, leading to clearer skin and a more even complexion.

Biotin for Hair and Nails: Consuming biotin-rich foods and supplements, such as eggs, almonds, and sweet potatoes, strengthens hair and nails, reducing breakage and promoting growth.

Balanced Blood Sugar for Even Skin Tone: Maintaining stable blood sugar levels by eating low-glycemic foods like whole grains, legumes, and vegetables can prevent breakouts and reduce skin discoloration.

Mind-Gut-Skin Connection: The gut-brain connection highlights how mental health is closely associated with gut health, which in turn affects the skin. A balanced diet that supports gut health can reduce stress-related skin issues, like acne and inflammation.

Emerging Trends:

As the nutricosmetics industry continues to evolve, oral dosage formats are gaining momentum in the market. These innovative products, available as tablets, capsules, gummies, powders, and beverages, offer a convenient and effective way to incorporate essential nutrients into daily routines (Table 1), reflecting the growing consumer preference for holistic solutions that deliver vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants directly to the body. These products enhance not only skin, hair, and nail health but also overall well-being, making beauty a comprehensive approach that starts from within.

Table 1: Emerging trends in nutricosmetics

As the link between health and beauty becomes increasingly apparent, by incorporating functional foods and beauty beverages into our daily routines we not only support our outer beauty but also enhance our overall well-being. So, the next time you shop for cosmetics, be sure to look for these innovative products that reflect your beauty goals and promote a confident lifestyle. After all, as the saying goes, “You are what you eat—so why not nourish your beauty from the inside out?”

Bibliography

1. Dini I, Laneri S., Nutricosmetics: A brief overview, Phytotherapy Research, Volume33, Issue12, December 2019, Pages 3054-3063, https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.6494.

2. J.E. Aguilar-Toalá, A. Vidal-Limon, Andrea M. Liceaga, Chapter 6 – Nutricosmetics: A new frontier in bioactive peptides’ research toward skin aging, Editor(s): Fidel Toldrá, Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, Academic Press, Volume 104, 2023, Pages 205-228, ISSN 1043-4526, ISBN 9780443193026, https://doi.org/10.1016/bs.afnr.2022.10.002.

3. Maia Campos, P.M.B.G.; Franco, R.S.B.; Kakuda, L.; Cadioli, G.F.; Costa, G.M.D.; Bouvret, E. Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study. Molecules 2021, 26, 4880. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26164880

4. Dini, I.; Laneri, S. The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations. Molecules 2021, 26, 3921. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26133921

5. Alharbi, K.L.; Raman, J.; Shin, H.-J. Date Fruit and Seed in Nutricosmetics. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 59. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030059.

6. Anunciato T.P., Filho P.A.D.R., Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals, JCD Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Forward series, Volume11, Issue1, March 2012, Pages 51-54, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00600.x.

7. Sriyab, S., Laosirisathian, N., Punyoyai, C. et al. Nutricosmetic effects of Asparagus officinalis: a potent matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitor. Sci Rep 11, 8772 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-88340-2.

8. Catarina Faria-Silva, Andreia Ascenso, Ana M. Costa, Joana Marto, Manuela Carvalheiro, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Sandra Simões, Feeding the skin: A new trend in food and cosmetics convergence, Trends in Food Science & Technology, Volume 95, 2020, Pages 21-32, ISSN 0924-2244, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tifs.2019.11.015.

9. López-Hortas, L.; Flórez-Fernández, N.; Torres, M.D.; Ferreira-Anta, T.; Casas, M.P.; Balboa, E.M.; Falqué, E.; Domínguez, H. Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics. Mar. Drugs 2021, 19, 552. https://doi.org/10.3390/md19100552.

10. Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M. González-Paramás, Anabela Martins, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Isabel C.F.R. Ferreira, Mushrooms extracts and compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics—A review, Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 90, 2016, Pages 38-48, ISSN 0926-6690, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2016.06.012.

 

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