Japan has long been revered for its approach to beauty, driven by the country’s rich history and culture.

Considered to be one of the more sophisticated markets, the Japanese approach to beauty, J-Beauty, is characterised by meticulous attention to detail, a dedication to innovation, and a reverence for tradition.

Routines such as Geisha beauty, onsen bathing, oil cleansing, and the use of natural ingredients, have all stood the test of time, extending out into Western cultures today.

The Japanese cosmetics and personal care market is one of the largest globally, just after the US and China[1], with a market size of USD31.16 billion and projected to reach USD35.90 billion in five years[2].

Well-known Japanese brands such as Shiseido, Bioré, Clé de Peau Beauté, Kose Corporation, SK-II, and many others have earned a well-deserved reputation for excellence, helping Japan stand at the forefront of global beauty.

While the foundation of Japanese beauty remains rooted in tradition, consumers’ modern-day personal care preferences and socioeconomic factors are changing the direction of the industry.

Redefining perfection

In addition to its own well-known brands, a substantial portion of Japan’s cosmetic imports come from South Korea and China.

According to Harumi Suzuki, Marketing Div at NIKKOL GROUP Nikko Chemicals, these neighbouring countries are having a direct influence on Japanese consumers.

Among the myriad of K-Beauty trends sweeping the globe, Suzuki cites the ‘Ulzzang’ makeup trend as a particularly significant influence on Japanese consumers. Translated as “best face” in Korean, Ulzzang is a makeup trend that focuses on achieving a doll-like appearance with clear, youthful, and dewy skin and ‘puppy dog eyes’.

Now, Suzuki says, Japanese consumers are looking towards China for the next trend. ‘Chaiborg’, a blend of ‘China’ and ‘cyborg’ is a captivating fusion of Chinese tradition and cyborg-inspired innovations, with the goal being to achieve a look so flawless and otherworldly, that it borders on inhuman[3].

“Chaiborg is gaining popularity on YouTube and TikTok following South Korea’s Ulzzang makeup trend,” he said. “This spread created an opportunity for Asian cosmetics to be accepted by the younger Japanese generation. Since SMS can instantly share content globally by transcending language barriers, Asian cosmetics make a buzz among Gen Z and then become popular with other generations in Japan.”

As the media and internet continue to accelerate beauty trends, this fusion of Chinese tradition and futuristic cyborg-inspired interest is redefining the Japanese concept of perfection.

Gentle on skin and the planet

While Japanese culture has long been associated with an impeccable sense of beauty, climate change and shifting weather conditions are increasingly posing challenges to this overall pursuit of perfection.

Japan, like many nations, is experiencing the effects of global warming; According to the G20 Climate Change Atlas, Japan stands to lose 3.72% of its GDP by 2050[4].

A perfect storm of rising temperatures and humidity, increased pollution, and changes in weather patterns have all given rise to a new set of beauty concerns. Nikko Chemicals’ Suzuki said Japan’s increasingly “humid summers” are causing Japanese consumers to “suffer from makeup collapse, enlarged pores and excessive sebum secretion due to high temperatures.”

He said: “Due to global warming, Tokyo recorded 86 days in 2023 with temperatures above 30 degrees. As a result, it’s getting more difficult to maintain the skin barrier function because air conditioner use creates dry, low humid conditions and causes skin fatigue due to temperature differences. We think there are great opportunities for growth in makeup items with water/sebum resistance and skincare with sebum care, which are strengths of SEA cosmetic products.”

Many consumers are also becoming increasingly conscious of ingredients with their sensitive skin issues in mind. According to Suzuki, sensitive skin has been reported by a large portion of the population. “In a research report by TPC Marketing Research, ‘Survey on Women’s Awareness and Situation Regarding Scalp and Hair’, 51.2% of females mentioned ‘I have sensitive skin’ and 67.6% of those women answered that their scalp is sensitive.

The number of consumers who self-declare that they have sensitive skin has increased 55% in two decades globally and this tendency is the same in Japan,” he explained. “Many consumers say they have sensitive skin on both their face and scalp, and the report suggests there are many complaints about rough scalp, especially among people who dye their gray hair. We think that countermeasure solutions are needed to take care of sensitive skin conditions in various areas.”

As consumers opt to avoid fragrances, harsh preservatives, and allergens, gentler ingredients that focus on hydration and skin barrier repair will continue to be a focus for the industry. According to Reiko Hasegawa, Senior Beauty and Personal Care Analyst at Mintel Reports Japan, traditional and natural ingredients such as Vitamin C “resonate well with Japanese consumers”.

“[They] appreciate upgrades in products and ingredients, but it often takes a while for them to trust new ingredients,” he advised. “Besides hyaluronic acid and collagen, Vitamin C is a favoured ingredient for its perceived safety and protection against skin damage. This presents an opportunity for brands to leverage Vitamin C’s potential and its derivatives to enhance safety and efficacy in skincare products.”

Sleeping your way to beauty

Further supporting the country’s holistic approach to skincare, according to Mintel, Japanese consumers are big believers in the power of beauty sleep.

While reports have shown the Japanese typically get less sleep per night than Western cultures[5], the link between sleep and beauty has taken centre stage. Hasegawa said there is a “growing focus” on the intersection of beauty and sleep which is being translated into the personal care industry. “Over half (54%) of Japanese consumers are saying they prioritise a good night’s sleep to enhance their appearance,” he said. “[Here], there are opportunities for brands to capitalise on the concept of beauty sleep and emphasise the importance of developing a nighttime skincare routine to support and maintain healthy-looking skin.”

In today’s ever-connected ‘always switched on’ world, more brands are beginning to focus on overnight skincare rituals, offering products with ingredients designed to improve sleep quality and maximise skin’s natural regeneration while we sleep.

Leading personal care ingredient manufacturer, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, for example, will be showcasing its latest Immunight ingredient, a green-processed oil-soluble lavandin extract designed to reduce the effects of poor-quality sleep on skin, boosting nighttime skin recovery and targeting the improvement of sleep quality by inhalation of olfactory compounds at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia.

In addition, the company’s Regenight also increases nighttime recovery and boosts melatonin regenerative and protective pathway to improve skin regeneration and reduce daily damage. Also at the event will be ImDerma Laboratories Co., Ltd’s Imdermalab ® ArMorpheus, which effectively relaxes brain waves and assists sleeping efficiency by up to 81%.

The Japanese beauty and personal care industry has masterfully harnessed its heritage and combined it with modernity to create an industry that exemplifies grace and sophistication to the world. Its unique approach, combining tradition with innovation, a minimalist philosophy, traditional ingredients, and cutting-edge research and development, has resulted in a beauty market that is unmatched in its elegance.

This year, in-cosmetics Asia is poised to host 22 leading Japanese suppliers set to unveil their latest creations aimed at addressing a myriad of current trends, including Nikko Chemicals, Miyoshi Kasei, Ogawa & Co., Ltd., Yamakawa & Company, Ltd., Ikeda Corporation and more.

Nikko Chemicals will showcase NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL, a highly safe multi-functional ingredient that can improve skin barrier ability, protect against pollution-induced damage, suppress pore enlargement due to immature differentiation, and use nerve cell mechanisms for care. Meanwhile, Miyoshi Kasei, global leader in the development and manufacture of surface treated pigments and mineral fillers, will introduce MiyoNAT CAI, its next generation acylated amino acid treatment compatible with various oils used in cosmetics thanks to its superior dispersibility and colour development.

in-cosmetics Asia will return to Bangkok, Thailand from 7-9 November 2023. For more information or to sign up for the event, visit the website.

[1] Reference 
[2] Reference 
[3] Reference 
[4] Reference 
[5] Reference

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Running formulation stability tests provide manufacturers with crucial data about a product’s safety and shelf life. The results are useful both externally – by putting a high-quality product in the market – and internally when planning product development, lifecycle management and even inventory management.

Stability means successful finished products that endure environmental conditions and maintain functions for longer, meeting consumers’ needs for durable quality. A variety of techniques and ingredients can be used to guarantee stability.

Pearlescent pigments allow physical stability while enhancing the product’s appearance with its colour-change and crystal-like effects. The protection and aesthetical properties of the coated ingredient have been driving R&D professionals’ attention.

This developing interest is driving market growth worldwide. The Grand View Research predicts the pearlescent pigment market size across all industries to be worth $1.92 Billion by 2022. Demand “expected to reach 233.2 kilotons by 2022, growing at a CAGR of 4.4% from 2015 to 2022 with the Asia Pacific expected to witness the highest growth of 4.9%” in the same period.

Knowing now of such increased demand for pearlescent pigments are you thinking of incorporating them into your next product development? Do you know the particularities of how formulation stability can be reached through the use of coated pearl-gloss pigments? Join the demonstration on 24 June to discover the effects of those ingredients in emulsified cosmetic formulations such as BB and CC cream. Their vast benefits also allow for the improvement of lipstick quality.

Soleon will also highlight their novel Fluid Bed Coating with functional natural extracts. They are based on a low temperature or distilled extraction and designed to contain large amounts of valid ingredients, being easy to use in formulations due to their lack of dark colouration.

Key learning points:  

• Formulation stability with coated pearl-gloss pigments
• Improving BB cream, CC cream and lipstick quality
• Novel Fluid Bed Coating process in addition to wet and dry coatings

This is only one of the four sessions we’ll be hosting during The Science of K-Beauty Ingredients Day on 24 June. Learn all about each session, the ingredients you’ll discover and how to join on the event’s page here.

EWG says testing finds asbestos in talc

Tests carried out by the Scientific Analytical Institute in the US are said to have detected the notorious carcinogen asbestos in talc-based cosmetics.

The tests have been reported on by the Environmental Working Group (EWG), which says that the tests found 21 different cosmetic products covering various categories were found to have traces of the carcinogen in the formulas. 

The positive test results were demonstrated in three of a total of 21 cosmetic products, which included two eye shadow palettes and one toy make-up kit aimed at children. 

The EWG says it alerted both parents and consumers about the potential hazard in the products, which were removed from both Amazon and eBay.

A report of the findings has also been published in the Environmental Health Insights, a peer-reviewed scientific journal. 

Presently the Occupational Safety and Health Administration warns there is no safe level of exposure to asbestos, which is linked to several types of cancers, but most commonly mesothelioma and the scarring lung disease asbestosis. 

Kraton highlights its range of polymeric modifiers for oils: Ellamera

Netherlands-based cosmetic and personal ingredients solutions provider Kraton is currently platforming its newly launched comprehensive range of polymeric modifiers for oils. 

This indispensable new tool for formulators is called Ellamera  and has been created specifically to provide a tailored polymer range to suit the needs of the health and beauty market. 

According to the development team, Ellamera has been created to deliver a range of functions that include: 

•  Film formation
• Easy and uniform spreading
• Excellent suspension properties
• Water repellency
• Compatibility with a wide range of emollients

The complete range includes Ellamera RAD-Thick, Ellamera BI-THIN and Ellamera TER-SET, which are all soluble in low polarity carriers and oils, together with Ellamera PER-SUST, which is soluble in medium to high polarity carriers and oils. 

Each solution has been designed with different characteristics to tailor formulations to very specific needs that come about from complex requirements for a complete range of cosmetic and personal care products. 

RAD-THICK provides thickening, film formation and water repellency; BI-THIN provides viscosity, uniform spreading, film formation and water repellency; TER-SET provides structuring/cohesion and binding, whale PER-SUST provides structuring/cohesion and film formulation.

This type of flexibility makes the range compatible with a broad range of cosmetic formulations for the colour cosmetic, skincare, haircare and suncare markets, providing sensorial, natural, sustainable and enhanced colour attributes. 

Research highlights importance of food allergy warnings for infant skincare

Scientists at the Clinic of Children’s Diseases in Lithuania say that a range of skin products marketed for children should carry allergy warnings. 

According to the research, a range of skincare formulations marketed at children and infants should carry warning labels because they may contain traces of common food allergens such as almond, wheat and soy. 

The findings were published in the peer-reviewed Contact Dermatitis journals and aimed at discovering the prevalence of food allergens in a wide range of children’s skincare products. 

The study reviewed a total of 276 products sold in Lithuania, including creams, oils, wet wipes, shampoos and baby powder. 

All of the products were scanned for the presence of allergen food ingredients, with the findings showing that almost 40% contained at least one allergen. 

The research also discovered that products pertaining to be natural or ecological had a higher likelihood of containing food allergens.

While the researchers stressed that over 90% of the products tested were manufactured outside of Lithuania, they also concluded that food allergens were prevalent in children’s personal care products. 

Sytheon secures patent on skin ingredient

Sytheon’s research and development team say it has obtained a new US patent for Synoxyl AZ (Acetyl Zingerone) as a skin pigmentation treatment. 

The compound is already known for its non-sacrificial antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties, but the company’s latest research now focuses on its skin lightening attributes. 

US Patent 10.828.241 specifies that the compound’s skin lightening and even toning composition can be used on normal or hyperpigmented as part of skincare formulations targeting these conditions. 

The development team says that the new application for the ingredient means it can be used to enhance skin lightening, even-out skin’s natural colour tones or treat areas of skin darkening or hyperpigmentation, resulting from the sun or other environmental hazards. 

Additionally, it can also treat medical conditions such as acne that cause scar-induced hyperpigmentation, as well as skin ageing-relating conditions such as age spots, liver spots and freckles. 

The development team also claims that AZ can be combined with Synovea HR to enhance the effective treatment and control of skin pigmentation due to non-overlapping mechanistic pathways. 

Amorepacific and Kaist join forces on anti-ageing technology

In South Korea, Amorepacific’s research and development team is working together with the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAIST) on a project to reverse the ageing of skin cells. 

The collaborative effort had developed an original technology that is said to reverse the ageing process in human dermal fibroblasts.

The results of the project have been published in the online edition of the international scientific journal PNAS, on November 23rd.

The researchers were focused on the fact that as skin cells age the speed of regeneration slows, making the skin thinner and more susceptible to wrinkles, as well as conditions such as dryness, itching and other problems.

During the research the two teams developed a signalling network model for ageing skin cells, that included simulations to analyse the model, ultimately discovering a core f that reverses ageing in old cells and converts them into younger cells. 

The scientists believe this finding is meaningful because it points to the ability to reverse the biological phenomenon of ageing skin cells, something that was previously considered to be irreversible.

“The joint research enabled us to build an ageing signal network model and an artificial model for aged skin, with which we saw the potential to reverse the ageing process in the skin,” Park Won-seok, Director of Research & Innovation Center at Amorepacific R&D Center said, 

“Amorepacific will continue to build on our studies on dermatology and bio sector to slow down or improve the progress of ageing that was previously thought impossible. We will continue to put in our utmost efforts to safeguard the health of our customers worldwide.” 

Amorepacific says it is now developing cosmetics that reduce wrinkles by extracting a core ingredient in Camellia japonica seed extracts to control ageing in human skin. 

Want to find out more about the latest ingredients? Check out this article on the efficacy of microalgae oil

Abstracted Section from Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9^th Ed.

                       By Charles Warren

6.8.1LIPSTICKS AND LIP-GLOSSES

The lip area of a person has been one of the attraction features of beauty in many cultures around the world [5]. Properties such as fullness, shape, definition, and volume have all been associated with desire to enhance beauty and attractiveness. An example of extreme contrast enhancement can be seen for geishas in the Japa- nese culture, in which case bright red lip color is commonly used on a near-white skin background makeup. It is therefore natural for consumers to have a high inter- est in products enhancing the lips. While in the past, lipsticks have mainly focused on bringing decorative benefits (color shade, gloss), they now also bring functional (sun protection) and skincare (moisturizing, plumping) benefits to the lip skin.

The importance of lipsticks and lip-gloss in modern culture can be seen by the wide selection in color shades available in commerce. An interesting point is the large proportion of color shade names associated with fruits or senses such as berry, pomegranate, plum, luscious, passion, sensual, all of which use the mentally associated image of fresh/richness with an enhanced feel of beauty.

a.  Formulas

Formula 26.4. Example of transfer-resistant lipstick formulation

Procedure

1. Prepare phase C color grind using roller mill (Melt Ganex® WP-660; add to color mix before milling)
2. Melt phase A ingredients. Heat to 90–95°C; mix until uniform.
3. Cool batch to 82–85°C.
4. Add phase B; mix until smooth.
5. Add phase C color grind; mix approximately 30 min.
6. Add phase D, avoid aerating batch; mix until uniform.
7. Pour samples at 82–85°C.

Formula 26.5. Example of lip-gloss formulation

PROCEDURE

1. Melt phase A ingredients; heat to 85–90°C until melted and uniform.
2. Cool batch to 80°C.
3. Add phase B; mix until uniform.
4. Add phase C; avoid aerating batch; mix until uniform.
5. Pour samples at 80°C.

a.  Color

First of all, lipsticks are intended to enhance or bring color to lips. This is generally achieved by adding colorants to the product, which is applied to lips as a thin coating. Most shades found nowadays contain some red dye and range from pale pink/orange to bright red and to darker tones of red, brown, or purple. Some unusual lipstick colors such as green, blue, or black can also be found. The color imparts a higher visibility to lips and shades are also considered to reflect the occasional environment of the consumer. Color has also been found in the form of skin dyes such as eosin and bromofluoresceins. These dyes penetrate slightly into the first lay- er of lip skin, which makes them more wear resistant. As a consequence, they also can induce some sensitization, even irritation or allergic reactions in consumers.

The color of lipsticks can be modulated by a degree of transparency. Lipsticks can thus range from “natural” near colorless or slight coloring to high coverage in their applied layer on lips. Titanium dioxides are sometimes used to increase coverage, but they also introduce a whitening effect on the resulting lip shade due to their white initial color. These particles also need special attention due to their mat- tifying effect on a formulation, which can counter an expected gloss or high shine expectation. Color is imparted by absorbing dye pigments such as D&C dyes. Ad- ditional optical effects can be introduced by means of interference pigments (based on silica, mica, borosilicates) reflecting selective color wavelengths. The size of these pigments plays an important role, since larger particles give a glitter effect but finer particles can bring a silky appearance to a lip product. Interference pigments (positive color component system) can often contrast with darker base colors of a lipstick. For example, fine golden interference pigments, bring a warm tone to a darker red/ochre lipstick. Typical colorant concentrations range from 4 to 20%.

c. Gloss ingredients

Lipsticks and lip-glosses are often intended to bring high gloss and shine when applied on lips. This is generally obtained by use of oils, esters, and silicones helping to form a homogeneous coating on lips and enhancing the light reflection by increasing the refractive index of the lipstick film. These ingredients also help the cohesion of a formulation, especially when using fillers and larger pigments that disrupt the cohesion of a lipstick during molding.

c.   Oils

Many oils can be used in lipsticks, such as castor oil, mineral oils, and hydroge- nated vegetable oils. Their viscosity ranges from liquid to near wax-like, and they play a role of dispersant for colorants as well as cohesion enhancer in lipsticks. Excessive amounts can lead to heavy feel, rancidity, or too much payoff when lipsticks are being applied by a consumer. Many oils need a co-solvent such as fatty alcohols to ensure their good dissolution in a formulation. Typical oil concen- trations range from 6 to 10%.

d. Waxes

The most commonly used waxes in lipsticks are beeswax and Carnauba wax. Generally, waxes are used to increase the viscosity of a lipstick and balance the effects of oils and esters. Waxes are harder ingredients and they raise the melting point of a formulation. This control in the melting temperature of the lipstick also controls the payoff of a lipstick, which is the amount of product transferred from the lipstick to the lips of a consumer. Payoff needs to be adjusted based on the amount of colorants and the expected degree of coverage. Excessive use of waxes can lead to tackiness, graininess, and unpleasant application feel. Typical wax con- centrations range from 8 to 18%.

e. Solvents

Alcohols and esters are generally used as solvents to disperse color pigments and waxes. Many esters are available for this: linear and branched alkyl esters, and from stearates (e.g., glyceryl-, iso-, hydroxyl-stearates) to palmitates, lanolin alco- hols, caprylates, and others. Typical solvent concentrations range from 3 to 10%.

f.   Silicones

These ingredients can range from liquids to wax-like consistency. They bring a lighter feel to the lipstick and decrease the greasy/heavy perception for consum- ers. Polar esters are often used as co-solvent with silicones. Typical concentrations range from 1 to 5%.

g.   Polymers

Polymers are used to impart film-forming properties to lipsticks as well as to ensure the global film cohesion once applied onto lips. Another critical benefit of poly- mers is wear resistance. Usually, a large-scale polymer is used for film adhesion and flexibility to follow the movements of the lips while a finer-branched poly- mer serves to create the three-dimensional local network inside the film and traps colorant dyes, preventing their release on textiles or drinking containers (glass, ceramics). Polymers such as an acrylate/C12–22  alkylmethacrylate copolymers also provide good adhesion of the lipstick during application on lips. Finally, polymers can contribute to gloss in a lipstick by improving the quality of the film on lips and/or by increasing the refractive index of the lipstick [6].

Typical polymer concentrations range from 0.2 to 2%.

i. Additional ingredients

Sunscreens are often included in lipstick products to bring protection against ultraviolet light. Sun-protection factors range typically from 8 to 15. These ingredients are generally oils, so higher amounts of waxes are used to counter their lowering of viscosity. A good dispersion of sunscreen filters can be obtained by alcohol co-solvents.

Moisturizing ingredients such as glycerol are sometimes used in lipsticks. Adding a moisturizer helps maintain the skin condition but also the fullness of lips and thus more attractiveness. Antioxidants are sometimes used in lipsticks at lower concentrations (0.1–1%) and intended to remove ultraviolet-induced radicals inside the skin of lips. Numerous fragrances can be used in lipsticks to give a fruity smell/taste to products or sometimes to mask heavier greasy ingredients

Discover pigments for cosmetics.

Abstracted Section from Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9^th Ed.

By Charles Warren

a.  Pigments

Pigments impart color to the final formulation. They can be of two types: absorption pigments of interference pigments. Absorption pigments give color by absorbing part of the visible light spectrum. Their observed color results from reflection of the nonabsorbed light spectrum. Combining absorption pigments needs to consider the reflected light colors in order to avoid overlap of reflected light wavelengths and absorbed wavelengths. This is termed “subtraction color composition.” It is illus- trated by a trichromatic schematic showing that blue is the result of light absorption in the yellow or that red is the resulting color of light absorption at red wavelengths. Combining red and blue absorption pigments will yield a green shade instead of magenta. A good example of this color composition system is the CMY (cyan/ma- genta/yellow) system widespread in the printing industry. In a subtractive system, one starts from a neutral white light spectrum and each pigment removes a specific wavelength region from the white spectrum, leaving its remaining colors [4].

Figure 26.3. RGB and CMY trichromic color composition systems.

On the contrary, additive colors are obtained when pigments are the actual source of the color shade. Interference pigments act by selective reflection of a wavelength from the visible spectrum, and as such, pigments act similar to a light source. In this system, using a red and blue light sources will give a magenta light. In the additive composition system, one starts here with an empty light spectrum (dark). Each interference pigment adds a source of light to this dark background, which color relates to the reflective interference wavelength.

An illustration of the differences is given in Figure 26.4.

Fillers

The purpose of fillers is to opacify formulations to adjust the degree of transparency from a high-coverage foundation to a sheer foundation without affecting the color shade of a formulation. Fillers can lighten a formulation (higher concentrations above 5%) and they can induce a thickening of formulations. The most common fillers are titanium dioxides (white), talc (used less now), and silica particles. The particle size of fillers also influences the optical appearance of the product on skin.

Finer particles will give a softer appearance than larger particles. Finally, silicon dioxide particles are sometimes used to bring a slight light-scattering effect in foundations applied to skin, resulting in a soft-focus effect. They are often termed “light diffusion particles” and are generally coated for secondary purposes such as more hydrophilic/hydrophobic characteristics. The coating can also affect the opti- cal refractive index and enhance the light-diffusion effect. In addition, the coating generally prevents any sensitization risks when applied to sensitive skin.

Surfactants

These ingredients are often dependent on the type and concentrations of pigments as well as fillers. Their role is to disperse and maintain a homogenous dispersion in the liquid form. Common surfactants include stearates, dimethicones, oleates, and polyoxyethylene ethers (nonionic).

Thickeners

Thickeners serve to bring more texture to the formulation while also reducing the risk of pigment sedimentation inside a bottle. They are used in low amounts when needed, since the pigments and fillers will bring a formulation quite high in viscosity.

Film formers

Oils and silicones can be used to enhance spreadability on skin. Dimethicones  are typical for spreadability while giving a dryer skin feel post-application. These compounds will also help skin adhesion of the formulation during its first minute following application. A good compromise needs to be reached in terms of time of setting of the foundation on the skin and time allowed for a consumer to evenly spread a formulation over the desired area.

Polymers

Polymers are widely used in foundations for multiple reasons. They will enhance film adhesion on skin (e.g., acrylate/C12–C22 alkylmethacrylate copolymer). Poly- mers also bring stability to the foundation film by maintaining pigments evenly dispersed while providing a degree of porosity and breathability (e.g., triacontanyl PVP). As mentioned before, film breathability is very important for skin to avoid

occlusion effects. Several polymers are often combined to ensure adhesion on skin and good retention of pigments over time of wear. This last benefit is responsible for wear resistance of a foundation to avoid any rub-off or staining of consumer clothes during the daily wear time of a foundation. Lastly, polymers can also bring a mattifying effect via sebum absorption/trapping and thus prevent the development of skin shine and oily appearance.

Additional ingredients

In addition to water, pH adjusters, preservatives, and antioxidants fall in this category to address the stability of the final formulation and its good compatibility with skin. Alcohols can also be used to give a slightly faster drytime.

In case you missed it, check out our introduction to formulation and approaches for foundations and lipsticks.