I often get asked: what is the difference between pharmaceutical formulation and cosmetic formulation? While the use of therapeutic actives and delivery is often cited as the most obvious variation, the other main distinction is that cosmetic formulas must be much more aesthetically pleasing to consumers than their medicinal counterparts.

When creating pharmaceutical formulas, we need to be concerned foremost with ensuring stable and effective delivery of a medicinal compound; how the product feels or smells is of much lesser importance.

When it comes to formulating cosmetics however, while the product must perform as required by a consumer, it must also provide a pleasing sensory experience to fulfill their expectations and meet often intangible desires.

Let’s look at some formulating tips to ensure your cosmetic formulas deliver on the sensory and aromatic aspects deemed desirable and essential by consumers.

Immediate sensory pleasure can build cosmetic brand loyalty

When a consumer tests a cosmetic product, they will usually apply a small portion to the back of their hand or palm, smell it, then rub it between their fingertips. See additional interesting consumer habits in this video. This can mean the difference between them purchasing a product or choosing to leave it on the shelf.

You can alter the immediate sensory pleasure of a cosmetic product by:

• selecting emulsifiers that have a cushioning feeling without excessive rub in time;
• choosing lipids with volatility or little play time for oily skin types;
• using lipids with a buttery sensory for dry or sensitive skin products;
• combining lipids to create a long spreading emolliency required by body products; and/or
• adding gums that can alter the spread and feel of lipids on contact.

You may also find it useful to add cooling ingredients (such as menthol) or warming ingredients (such as zeolite) in certain cosmetic formulation types for an extra wow factor on application. See more tips on how to formulate for rapid results with this blog. Testing the immediate sensory experience of a product with a target consumer group can be an important aspect to see how well your cosmetic formula appeals to them from the very first introduction.

Lasting sensory appeal can support the activity of the cosmetic formula

The lasting sensory of a product needs to support the performance aspects of the cosmetic formula. In formulation terms, examples include:

• formulas for dry, mature and sensitive skin types need a lingering emolliency on the skin, long after it has been applied;
• cosmetics for hair care should have little to no residue shortly after being applied – volatile lipids can be a great way to achieve this result;
• make up products need to spread well during application but then must not run into fine lines or move throughout the day;
• formulas for oily skin types should remain relatively weightless from application – but usually benefit from the addition of humectants for non-greasy hydration.

Think about the needs of your target consumer: the lasting sensory profile of a cosmetic formula should support these needs to ensure the best results of the product over a prolonged period.

The aroma must appeal to the target market

The aroma of your cosmetic formula can be used to entice a consumer to test its sensory, and can reinforce the message you are trying to convey about the product. The smell of a cosmetic product has such a powerful impact, it can instantly appeal or deter a consumer from purchase! For example, if you are formulating for a:

• sensitive skin market: fragrances and essential oils are often avoided.
• budget market: cheap fragrances with simple aromas are usually the best choice.
• natural market: essential oils or natural fragrances created from essential oil isolates are generally required.
• luxury market: the aromatic profile must be highly specialized to your ideal consumer, whether it be from essential oils or fragrance materials.

When creating cosmetic formulas with essential oils, remember their input is generally too low to be of therapeutic benefit, and their inclusion must not be marketed based on their traditional medicinal uses. Some essential oils can support the performance of active ingredients by balancing the sebum levels of the skin or hair, although their use must be carefully considered if the aromatic profile is not appealing to your target market, despite their benefits.

Aromas can also be used to define a product range, impart an uplifting or relaxing mood, cover undesirable body odours or boost attraction. Learn how to choose aromas to suit your target market, including the use of essential oils, and incorporate them safely into your formulas.

Why sensory and aromatic principles are essential in cosmetic formulas

Consumers have a lot of choice when it comes to personal care. The immediate and long-term sensory aspects of a cosmetic formula, and especially its aroma, can be a make-or-break point when consumers are considering whether to purchase new cosmetic products. Consumers can’t often know just how well a product will work when they are first introduced to it at the shelf – but they can sense whether they like how a product smells and feels almost immediately. Use the tips in this article to ensure the sensory experience suits their preferences and boosts the positive experience of using your brands cosmetic products.

Remember to test the suitability of the sensory and aromatic profiles of your intended product before launching on members of your target market to ensure it hits the right note.

Happy formulating!

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Fragrances are volatile compounds capable of readily converting from a liquid state to a vapour state at room temperature. These molecules of vapourized liquid are what we perceive as smells; lighter than air, they drift into our noses and engage our olfactory receptors.

There are many types of fragrance molecules, but we will focus on essential oils, which are abundant in the natural world.

Essential oils are aromatic compounds produced by many plants, and they are of interest to us because of their fragrances: The smells of different essential oils can alter our brain chemistry, impacting our emotional and mental states.

Essential oils are complex mixtures of terpenes and other aromatic or aliphatic compounds, produced as secondary metabolites in specialized secretory tissues of aromatic plants.

Plants produce essential oils for a variety of biological purposes: to cool off by way of oil evaporation, to attract pollinators, to make themselves unpalatable to insects and animals, to ward off disease, even to make the soil around them toxic to other plants, thus reducing competition for sunlight, moisture, and nutrients. Essential oils may be present in the plants’ flowers, leaves, roots, or bark.

After the plants have been harvested, the essential oils can be extracted using different methods such as steam distillation, expression (physical crushing of essential oil glands situated in fruit rinds or the outermost waxy layer of fruit peels), microwave-assisted extraction, solvent extraction, or enfleurage (transfer of the essential oil from flower petals to fat).

In general, the most common method is steam distillation, but expression is the method used most frequently to obtain essential oils from the peels of citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons, or bergamot.

Essential oils have found their way into everyday life, notably into foods, beverages and confectionery items; into personal care products (soaps, toothpastes, mouthwashes, deodorants, bath lotions and shampoos), perfumes, other cosmetics, and pharmaceutical formulations. Essential oils are added to make such products more attractive or to mask the taste or smell of less pleasant ingredients.

Green consumerism and the “naturals” trend have provided a fresh impetus for the use of plant essential oils, particularly in the skincare beauty industry. In addition to their fragrances and natural marketing image, essential oils also bring comprehensive active compounds to modern skincare products. For example, essential oils can serve as natural preservative agents, due to their antimicrobial properties. They can also provide additional benefits to skin such as anti-acne effects, anti-aging effects, skin lightening, and sun protection.

Essential oils may contain anywhere from a few to more than 100 single molecular structures. However, essential oils are usually natural mixtures of about 20–70 components, with two or three of the major components being present at fairly high concentrations and other components present in trace amounts.

The contribution of a single compound to an oil’s fragrance does not solely depend on its concentration though; it also relies on its odor threshold, which is determined by its structure and volatility. Therefore, minor components derived from oxidation or degradation reactions may have a strong impact on an oil’s fragrance if their aroma values are high enough.

Essential oil components can be roughly classified into three families: lipophilic terpenoids, phenylpropanoids, and short-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. Lipophilic terpenoids are the most frequent and characteristic constituents. Among them, allylic, mono-, bi-, tricyclic mono- and sesquiterpenoids make up a major part of essential oils.

In general, monoterpene hydrocarbons are less influential on the fragrance of the essential oil than their oxygenated counterparts, which are highly odoriferous. Having a concentration of about 90%, monoterpenes are the most abundant component in essential oils. They have a great variety of structures, but geraniol/nerol, linalool, citronellol, citronellal and citral are the most important terpenes to an oil’s fragrance.

The chemical compositions of essential oils are heavily dependent on physiological (plant organ, ontogenesis), environmental (soil composition, weather conditions), and genetic factors. Other factors such as geographical variation, plant characteristics (which species, whether cultivated or wild), harvest or postharvest conditions, production parameters (oil production methodology, distillation parameters), and other parameters (storage condition, storage time) also impact the compositions of essential oils.

Essential oils are classified as top, middle, or base notes according to their odorous characteristics, diffusion rate and volatility.

The top notes are the most volatile oils and are therefore the first perceptible odors. In other words, they are detected first and fade first. As such, top notes are responsible for a product’s first impression on customers. These are light scents, usually lasting 5–10 minutes, but they may remain for a maximum of 30 minutes. Bergamot, juniper, cinnamon, and gardenia essential oils are all top notes.

Middle notes tend to be spicy or floral and give body to blends; they can remain for up to one hour. Ylang-ylang, geranium, lavender, jasmine, and clove essential oils are all middle notes. The base notes give a fragrance depth and last the longest, remaining for up to several hours. Myrrh, vanilla, sandalwood, and frankincense essential oils are all base notes.

Most common essential oils have been well tried and tested; their safety levels have been determined. As such, it is known that some essential oils are more likely to cause adverse skin reactions than others.

The presence and concentration of a relatively potent allergen is a major factor in allergic contact dermatitis, and the oxidation of essential oil constituents can increase the risk of adverse skin reactions because the resulting oxides and peroxides are generally more reactive. Therefore, the proper storage of essential oils is important to the preservation of their effectiveness and the reduction of adverse reactions.

Photosensitization may occur when an essential oil with a photosensitizing constituent is applied to skin and then exposed to sunlight or ultraviolet light. For instance, furanocoumarins are photosensitizers that may be present in expressed citrus peel oils and angelica root, rue, parsley leaf, or marigold essential oils.

The most common furanocoumarins are psoralen and bergapten. Inflammatory skin reactions such as pigmentation, blistering, or even severe skin burns can occur when furanocoumarins are applied to skin and exposed to ultraviolet light. We have detailed this situation in an earlier article about phytotoxicity for safe, natural ingredients.

Want to know more about fragrances? Visit the Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Global

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L’Oréal research underlines benefits of ceramides in UV protection skin care

A team of researchers from L’Oréal’s R&D centre in Clark, New Jersey has published a peer-reviewed study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology that highlights the efficacy of ceramide formulations for the enhancement of UV protection in skincare products.

According to the research, a skincare regimen that includes a moisturizer and sunscreen formulated with ceramides can serve to protect against UV-induced skin barrier damage from sun exposure. The study evaluated how UV exposure can impact the skin barrier by using the equivalent of two hours of UV exposure during the peak of summer in New York City.

The L’Oréal team decided to demonstrate the impact of a ceramide-containing skincare formula by using CeraVe, the company’s own brand that is a combined sunscreen and moisturising product. The study found that the skin barrier cells that were UV-exposed and treated with the ceramide-containing moisturiser and sunscreen were preserved and mimicked the skin barrier cells that were unexposed to UV. This compared to untreated skin barrier cells, which when exposed to the same amount of UV showed significant damage.

According to the L’Oréal team, the study findings reinforce the benefits of ceramide-containing skincare formulations in helping to protect against UV-induced skin barrier damage, which can lead to barrier compromised eczema outbreaks.

“As the leader in therapeutic skincare, we at CeraVe are committed to working with dermatologists to better understand the skin barrier and develop efficacious formulas with critical ingredients for healthy skin, like ceramides, that deliver therapeutic solutions for all skin needs,” said Tom Allison, SVP and global head of professional marketing at CeraVe.

“We are proud to be a part of the L’Oréal Research and Innovation team that continues to lead the industry in scientific developments that help improve patient outcomes by providing safe and effective therapeutic skincare.”

Aqdot launches molecular capture and release technology

UK-based Aqdot has launched AqFresh; a multifunctional ingredient with a broad range of claims including capturing bad odours, making fragrances last longer and neutralizing viruses.

The technology is based on cucurbit(n)urils (CBs), which are barrel-shaped molecules that act as hosts to target guest molecules and form a supramolecular complex. CBs cover a wide range of molecules, including VOCs and proteins, which the technology has been developed to capture using either sprays or solution.

The development team at Aqdot says that because many allergens are small proteins, the CBs in Aqdot can inhibit allergens from binding to antibodies, while many viruses, SARS CoV-2 pseudovirus, have spike glycoproteins that can effectively be inactivated by the CBs. With respect to allergens, Aqdot says that Aqfresh can remove up to 100% of allergens, a claim that is validated by clinical data. On top of this, it is also non-toxic, safe for the air, soft furnishings, pets and children.

Aqfresh is also said to be up to100% effective in capturing and eliminating malodours without having to rely on fragrance to mask those odours. For this application it is also effective in solid and liquid formulas and works with a wide pH range, to deliver an instant and long-lasting effect.

The technology is also said to be effective against a broad range of indoor pollutants, including BTEX, chlorinated compounds and formaldehyde. For this application, cucurbit(n)urils can bind both sulphur oxides and nitrogen oxides.

AqFresh has also been independently tested by the Virology Department of Cambridge/Addenbrookes Hospital to prove its effectiveness against viruses, thanks to the use of protein complexation. This makes it a safe alternative to biocidal technologies.

When formulated with fragrance, AqFresh can also deliver a longer-lasting fragrance experience, prolonging fragrance release by up to 24 hours, while also significantly improving fragrance intensity.

Sabinsa patent count reaches 308

With the addition of two new patents for its Nigellin and Sabroxy ingredient offerings, Sabinsa says it has now reached a grand total of 308 separate patents.

Its collection of patent grants includes various established category-leading ingredients, including LactoSpore, Digezyme and Curcumin C3 Complex, as well as the addition of a growing number of new patents, as the company continues to ramp up its portfolio.

Sabinsa, which serves the cosmetics, supplements and nutrition industries, filed its first patent back in 1996 for its black cumin ingredient, which has a broad range of beneficial properties, underlined by a US patent to register the ingredient’s use for reducing blood glucose levels.

“I’m very proud that Sabinsa has reached the milestone of over 300 patented grants worldwide, and more are coming,” said Dr. Muhammed Majeed, founder and chairman of the Sami-Sabinsa Group.

“Our motto ‘Our Innovation is your Answer’ truly reflects the new products, nutritional supplements and formulations we develop in accordance with global standards to cater to the growing needs of the industry, and consumers.”

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Firmenich joins the Union for Ethical BioTrade

Leading multinational fragrance ingredients provider Firmenich has confirmed that it has joined the growing number of businesses joining the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT). The UEBT promotes sourcing that respects the environment, biodiversity and ethical practices such as benefit-sharing, local development and labour rights.

Firmenich’s Center of Expertise of Naturals, in Grasse, France, has been a member of UEBT since 2014, so the latest move gives the company membership to the organization at a global level. The company says that the expanded membership will play a key role in its 2030 ESG objectives on the responsible sourcing of raw materials. The company currently sources natural raw materials from 50 countries, worldwide.

Gin distillery leftovers turned into skin rejuvenating ingredient

UK-based ingredient company Full Circle has partnered up with an award-winning brewery to develop a skin rejuvenating ingredient from gin distillery leftovers.

The sustainable beauty pioneers wanted to prove that the beauty and personal care industry can thrive by making the most of byproducts, by upcycling them to create highly effective ingredients with an enhanced sustainability profile.

Gin Toniq is the first of a series of upcycled water-soluble actives from the Toniq range that will complement the company’s existing Necta and Crush ranges of upcycled scrubs and powders. The Gin Toniq ingredient has been created through a partnership with UK-based brewer and distiller Adnams, which has built on its 149-year history by creating a ‘zero to landfill’ policy that is part of a decades-long commitment to sustainability.

Full Circle has stepped in to help the brewer in its zero to landfill aims by transforming locally grown grain ferment leftover from the Adnam’s gin brewing operation to help create the Gin Toniq ingredient, a long-lasting hydrating and moisturization active. Full Circle claims that for every bottle of gin the brewer produces, it can upcycle 4 litres of gin distillery leftovers, consisting of germinated, malted and fermented malted barley, that would otherwise go to waste.

The leftover grain ferment is free of alcohol at this point and is captured by Full Circle and combined with glycerine, a process that not only eliminates the need for any type of preservation but also provides a synergistic combination on the skin.

The company’s in-vivo studies have shown that this combination helps give the Gin Toniq ingredient three times more moisture than glycerine alone and can also deliver up to 8 hours of hydration. The studies also revealed that the ingredient has inflammatory properties, making it ideal for soothing and calming skincare products, and in particular the new trend for maskne treatments.

“Gin Toniq proves that there is so much value in what many would consider to be a waste product. As with the rest of our portfolio, this new launch supports our mission to help beauty and personal care brands transition towards a circular economy without compromising product quality or performance,” said Harry McIlwraith, general manager, Full Circle.

 “We’re absolutely thrilled to be partnering with Adnams who are also committed to diverting waste from landfill. It’s partnerships like this that helps make what we do possible.”

Full Circle says the ingredient is natural, vegan, Ecocert approved, China compliant and can be used with a wide range of face and body care applications, including daily use products.

Kylie Cosmetics to reformulate as vegan and “clean“

Kylie Jenner, founder of one of the world’s leading beauty brands, has announced via Instagram that her Kylie Cosmetics line is going both vegan and clean, joining a growing band of leading brands that are tapping into these trends.

The Kylie Cosmetics website has been shut down for several weeks now, while the company undergoes a rebranding, and although no other details of the rebranding have been revealed, it would appear that the product lines will be completely reformulated.

In the Instagram post, Kylie Jenner conceded that a major part of this rebranding would be to make the product line kinder to animals by ruling out the use of ingredients tested on animals, while also ensuring that the products have a minimal impact on the environment.

Details of the rebranding, the new formulations and the packaging are due to be announced when the website opens up again, although no date for that has been confirmed yet.

Felix Biotechnology partners with Biocogent on skincare ingredients

In the US, Felix Biotechnology has announced that it has partnered with Biocogent, a leading provider of high technology ingredients to the beauty and personal care market. The project will focus on the strengths of the Felix Biotechnology platform to help develop chemical-free and functional ingredients for Biocogent’s skincare applications.

The partnership will specifically focus on ingredients that target problematic bacteria in the skin microbiome that can lead to irritations, rashes and acne. The companies want to target the growing recognition of solutions that remove only problematic bacteria while preserving beneficial bacterial of the human microbiome, to give a clearer, healthier-looking complexion.

Apoena Biotech to launch multifunctional biotech ingredient

Brazil-based Apoena Biotech, an agricultural-facing biotech business, has announced the opening of its newly formed beauty and personal care biotech ingredient division.

The company is readying its first ingredient for launch on the market later this year, which will be a multifunctional active product that will be both a co-surfactant and an anti-inflammatory. The company is aiming to build on the launch of this ingredient with a much bigger portfolio of biotech ingredients that will have a broad spectrum of applications, with a focus on both efficacy and sustainability.

Apoena Biotech hopes to capture the Brazilian market, as well as the other major Latin American markets, after which it will be aiming to take the business completely international by aiming to supply the portfolio in North America, European and Asia Pacific markets.

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Firmenich’s latest fragrance launch demonstrates new extraction technology

Global fragrance player Firmenich says investment in a new extraction technology is helping it to create the next generation of highly sustainable natural fragrance ingredients in the form of the new Firgood range. The technology is also said to offer new possibilities for fragrance ingredient development, leading to expanded palettes that will enable perfume producers to have more choice and enhance the boundaries of their fragrance creativity. 

The Firgood range includes a number of highly exotic and unique extracts, which the company’s development team says will help in the creation of distinctive fragrances that stand out in a highly competitive marketplace. Firgood is a collection of natural fragrance extracts produced using the new patented extraction process, which has been developed by the team at the company’s new industrial facility in its Naturals Centre of Excellence, located in Grasse, South of France.

The Firmenich development team has designed the application of the technology so it only uses water that is an inherent part of the biomass cells before the extraction process takes place.  The biomass is then warmed up using low-energy electromagnetic vibration, which means that the water from the biomass carries the odorant components, resulting in the final pure extract.

On top of all these efficiencies, the extraction process is solvent-free, while the dry biomasses only requires water humidification, again, minimizing the use of water. Additionally, the small amount of wastewater created at the end of the extraction process is clean and can be easily upcycled. 

Currently, the Firgood range includes a pear, a ginger and a green bell pepper scent, but the company says it is planning the addition of a further 10 ingredients in the near future.

Sederma launches peptide-based ingredient for grey hair coverage

Sederma has recently launched Sliverfree, an ingredient that targets grey hair coverage using the company’s new peptide technology to enhance the natural pigmentation of greying hair. The Sederma development team utilised its new peptide technology to create the hair care ingredient, which works by ‘re-educating’ the hair bulb to stimulate pigmentation that can in turn reproduces the hair’s natural colour.

Sederma, part of the Croda Group, says its clinical trials have shown that the ingredient also provides enhanced protection against intrinsic and extrinsic oxidative damage while having a long-lasting effect that means traces of the pigmentation are still visible four months after treatment. 

According to the company, the research into the new ingredient has been extensive, with its efficacy being demonstrated in vitro and in vivo that involved four independent clinical studies. The study results showed that Silverfree visibly reduced the density of white hair, decreasing the pigment from -32.4% to -86%, and restored the original hair color, which had the effect of increasing the pigmentation from +27.4% to +385%. 

The ingredient is joining a growing number of new generation gray hair coverage solutions that all target the enhancement of the hair’s natural pigmentation. Similar ingredients have been developed by Sederma’s competitors, including Lucas Meyer Cosmetic’s Greyverse and Givaudan’s Darkenyl.

According to Sederma its solution has advantages over the competition thanks to a biomimetic lipodipeptide that acts on hair bulb, providing visible grey hair coverage for the vast majority of individuals within the first three months, regardless of hair type or colour.

New study from Euromed demonstrates skin care benefits from pomegranate extract

Ingredients provider Euromed says a study it commissioned on its pomegranate-derived ingredient, Pomanox, has shown it can improve the overall health and vitality of skin when taken as an oral supplement or in functional foods and beverages.

The study was conducted by the Eurecat Technology Center, a research company in Catalonia, which found that the extract can minimise hyperpigmentation, attenuate oxidative stress caused by excessive UV radiation, promote skin resilience and alleviate skin dryness. In particular, the study discovered that the ingredient provided an enhanced metabolism for collagen and hyaluronic acid was, while it also had a skin brightening effect, all serving to create a more even and radiant complexion.

The study results suggest that the ingredient could also have a preventive and regenerative effect, which is largely attributable to the fact that it is rich in polyphenols. This gives the ingredient antioxidant properties that inhibit pro-inflammatory enzymes and counteract oxidative stress caused by excessive exposure to UV radiation. Thanks to the UV protective effect, the study suggests that Pomonax can reduce hyperpigmentation by decreasing melanin synthesis. 

The ingredient also has pro-ageing claims because it promotes collagen levels in the skin, maintaining skin elasticity. The study underscored this by demonstrating an increase in pro-collagen type I and total collagen found among the group participants.

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Givaudan launches nature conscious fragrance creation

Fragrance giant Givaudan has launched its Naturality Index, which aims to support nature conscious fragrance creation that meets increasingly high sustainability goals. The move is in line with the company’s commitment to increase its own sustainability initiatives and become a leading in sustainable fragrances, tying in with its purpose goal to “show our love for nature in everything we do”.

The Index is said to be a unique tool that enables perfumers to factor in the environmental impact of their ingredient selection, in turn helping to bring new differentiation to the fragrance creation process. What makes the tool stand out is the fact that it assesses fragrance ingredients according to a range of sustainability measures, including renewability, biodegradability and sourcing.

The Index is built around four pillars:

• Environmental Positive Impact
• Ingredient Origin
• Energy Efficiency
• Responsible Sourcing

These pillars were created to help Givaudan’s clients meet their long-time sustainability goals on fragrance creation while tapping into one of the biggest trends in the industry, which is to find natural-based fragrances that are also sustainable.

“With consumers increasingly looking for creative yet sustainable fragrances, our Naturality Index is an invaluable tool to deliver nature-conscious fragrance creation,” said Maurizio Volpi, president of Givaudan fragrance and beauty.

“It provides our perfumers with a new dimension to aid the creative process, and offers our customers a solid and unique sustainability measurement of their olfactive solutions”.

The Naturality Index feeds into Givaudan’s Naturality Platform, which has been designed to utilize a palette of ingredients based on nature while incorporating sustainability and a positive impact on consumers.

Sozio acquires Phoenix fragrances and Scentessence

French fragrance house Sozio has expanded its footing in the international market with the acquisition of Phoenix Fragrances and Scentessence.

Phoenix Fragrances is based in Wellingborough, UK, and has developed an expertise in natural fragrances that Sozio is hoping to build on while also expanding its geographical reach into this important market. Sozio executives believe the acquisition is both complimentary to its existing business, while also serving to give a significant boost to its future development efforts.

 “Phoenix Fragrances integration fits in perfectly with our strategic plan and confirms our determination to accelerate our growth on the UK market,” said Frederic Braud, General Manager of Sozio.

“We will also expand our activities in the natural perfumery market and reduce our costs through various synergies in purchasing and IT activities.  We will boost investment in Phoenix’s R&D laboratories and Production site to help the company to sustain its growth.”

Sozio has also said that because of the strength of the Phoenix Fragrance brand, the company will continue to do business under that name. The company has also announced the acquisition of another France-based fragrance manufacturer Scentessence, which was founded in Brittany in 2003. While they have expertise in the natural fragrance market, it is also focused on providing fragrance for industrial and institutional markets, as well as cleaning products.

“The acquisition of Scentessence is going to strengthen our presence in France in the cleaning market and enhance our natural fragrance expertise, which has been a focus for Sozio for several years. Moreover, we are sharing common key values, putting our customers in the center of our attention.” said Braud.

Yooma acquires cannabis maker Socati

Canada-based Yooma Wellness has announced the acquisition of Socati Corp, a provider of cannabinoid ingredients and associated consumer products, with a focus on skincare. The deal to buy the US business was said to come with a price tag of $25 billion and will give Yooma a significantly increased product portfolio, as well as a geographical footing in the vast United States market.

Yooma is also building on the recent acquisition of UK and European-facing consumer brands that include Hello Joya, What The Hemp and Blossom, while its operations in Asia touch on CBD, hemp, skincare and beauty, thanks to a cross border e-commerce platform that includes China.

The company says that the scope and geographic reach of its business portfolio now offers it significant advantages over competitors because it has a platform that is ready for further organic growth as well as more business acquisitions, should they arise.

“Socati’s unique ability to deliver consistent cannabinoid ingredients and finished products that meet industry-leading quality standards makes Socati a natural fit for Yooma,” said Lorne Abony, Chairman of Yooma. 

“The Socati acquisition further expands Yooma’s global footprint by adding Socati’s customer base which includes some of the largest consumer brands in the CBD and wellness space across North America.”

Currently Socati operates out of a 22,000 square foot manufacturing facility in Montana, where it makes CBD and minor cannabinoids such as CBG and CBN, together with other functional ingredients.

Want more ingredients insights? Find out about Biopharma’s latest cannabinoid skincare line.

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Coty commits to sustainable ethanol for fragrances

Coty has signed a letter of intent to partner with LanzaTech, which will allow it to switch to sustainable ethanol made from captured-carbon emissions for its fragrance products.

Coty is one of the world’s largest fragrance brand owners in the world, so the partnership has far-reaching industry implications, while also helping the company to achieve its target that the majority of its fragrance portfolio will be using carbon-captured ethanol by 2023. LanzaTech has emerged as one of the leaders in next-generation green and sustainable ingredient production techniques and

has built on this position by developing the technology to capture industrial emissions and process the waste gases into a more sustainable form of ethanol. For the past two years, the companies have collaborated alongside production partners to develop what the teams say is a high-purity sustainable ethanol that is specifically suitable for fragrances.

“Sustainability is the ultimate driver of innovation and Coty is focused on creating outstanding products that are truly clean and green. Ethanol is the number one ingredient purchased for the fragrance category and over time this partnership with LanzaTech will significantly reduce the environmental impact of our products,” said Sue Y. Nabi, Chief Executive Officer of Coty.

“It’s not only the right thing to do, but it makes commercial sense too – with today’s consumer rightly demanding that their favourite brands share their commitment to sustainability.”

Ethanol has always been a core ingredient and serves to enable the efficient dispersion of scent. Coty has traditionally sourced its ethanol from a range of natural materials, such as sugar cane and sugar beet, but farming these crops utilizes land, fertiliser and water, whereas the new ethanol is 100% derived from waste.

Indeed, Coty worked with sustainability consultancy Quantic, determining that a life cycle assessment of the new ethanol product technique showed a significant reduction in the environmental impact.

Croda strengthens naturals offering with Alban Muller acquisition

Croda International has announced the acquisition of France-based natural active ingredient provider Alban Muller. As one of the biggest ingredient players in the beauty and personal care industry, this acquisition will serve to strengthen its position in the natural and botanicals area, specifically for sustainable active ingredients.

Established in 1978 by Alban Muller, the company has been built into a business with an annual turnover of €18 million and employs 90 people, with a focus on supplying ingredients that have a high sustainability profile, thanks in part to a focus on locally sourced raw materials. Alban Muller has also developed a focused on innovative and technologically advanced natural ingredients, which has been enhanced thanks to the incorporation of Zeodration, a low-energy drying technology that preserves even the most volatile and sensitive of active ingredients.

Croda executives believe the acquisition will help give its customers greater access to a range of high-tech active ingredients, while also serving to enable future growth for the business thanks to Croda’s international sales network and formulation expertise.

“The acquisition of Alban Muller enhances Croda’s position as a world leader in natural and botanical actives, helping us meet the increasing demand from customers looking for ingredients of natural origin to improve the sustainability profile of their products,” said Maarten Heybroek, president of Croda’s Consumer Care sector.

Croda said that the transaction is still subject to pre closing conditions but is expected to close by the end of Q1 2021.

L’Oréal commits to sourcing ingredients based on ‘green sciences’

As part of its aims to increase its sustainability profile, L’Oréal has made a commitment to ‘green sciences’ for its future ingredient and formulation development. The pledge means that, by 2030, 95% of its ingredients will be derived from renewable plant sources, abundant minerals or circular processes, while its entire range of formulas will be respectful of aquatic life.

The news represents a big shift for the industry, as L’Oréal is the world biggest beauty and personal care company, with countless ingredient and raw material suppliers worldwide, all of whom will have to adapt to the new requirements or lose risk losing big business. Executives at the company say that the shift to green sciences will enable the sustainable cultivation of ingredients using the very latest technological processes.

Last year the company hit targets to establish that 80% of its raw materials were easily biodegradable, 59% were renewable and 34% were of natural origin.

“With Green Sciences we are entering a new chapter for L’Oréal Research & Innovation, which has been a key driving force behind the company since its creation,” said Nicolas Hieronimus, the company’s deputy chief executive officer, in charge of division.  

“Our ambition is that by 2030 we will be able to offer women and men around the world increasingly effective, safe cosmetics that respect the environment.”

The green sciences focus also comes with a renewed commitment to transparency through its Inside Our Products website, an information campaign on environmental and social impact of cosmetic products highlighted by the Future programme, together with a social media campaign to drive awareness about Inside Our Products.

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Givaudan acquires AI player Myrissi

Givaudan says it is taking its fragrance development to the next step with the acquisition of artificial intelligence players Myrissi. Founded in 2014, Myrissi has developed a technology that is capable of translating a fragrance into colour patterns images, a technology that is both relevant to consumers and also helps to predict the end consumer’s emotional response. 

This link between colours, emotions and fragrances has been modelled on research based on over 25,000 consumer tests, allowing the team at Myrissi to develop a system that echoes consumers’ marketing briefs. In recent years, one of the most crucial elements of engaging consumers in fragrance has been to connect with the consumer on an emotional level, which in turn enhances interest and even loyalty to a specific fragrance. According to fragrance developers at Givaudan, the emotional response is so important that consumers can reject specific fragrances if sensory messages are not perfectly consistent. However, when the message is correct, this can result in the signature of the fragrance and the brand identity being amplified, helping the consumer 

“The acquisition of Myrissi is aligned with our long term Fragrance & Beauty strategy; their expertise in AI will support us in proposing to our customers new visual and verbal storytelling approaches to consumers,” said Maurizio Volpi, President Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty.

“This is particularly important in a time when e-commerce is booming. Our mission will be to support our customers to evoke the smell of their products in the most inspiring way, helping consumers to choose the product that best fits their preferences.”

Study confirms skin hydration effect of moringa seed oil

A new study by researchers in Thailand has shown that moringa oleifera seed oil does have skin hydration enhancing properties, combined with having a significant antioxidant impact. Researchers at the Srinakharinwirot University, Chiang Mai University and Phetchaburi Rajabhat University, conducted a study using a testing cream on 32 individuals and found that skin hydration levels increased by up to 85% over a four week period.

The tests required the individuals to apply a 0.2g dosing of moringa seed oil in a cream to the arm twice a day, alongside a control cream. Tests were then carried out once a week to determine skin hydration, erythema (redness), melanin levels and elasticity.

The research found that skin hydration increased at the end of each week that analysis was carried out, with skin hydration improving by 16% in the first week, 76% by the second week, and 77% in the third week, before reaching the 85% hydration increase in the fourth week. 

The skin redness caused by erythema was also significantly reduced, with the inflammation and irritation associated with the condition clearly easing and demonstrating anti-oxidant effects. On the other hand, the tests showed no signs of having any skin lightening or brightening properties, a claim that is particularly popular for skin products marketed in the Asia Pacific region. 

The skin irritation test showed that there was no significant or detectable impact on the skin, while the anti-inflammatory properties seen in the reduction of skin redness suggests that it has a soothing effect. Researchers also reported that the participants in the test said that they preferred the colour, smoothness and skin hydration effect of the moringa seed oil to the control cream, while absorption, odour and spreadability of the two were very comparable.

Colonial Chemical launches natural-based surfactant

ColaMate LA-40 is a natural-based surfactant from Colonial Chemical that is derived from lauryl alcohol. 

According to the development team, it is more than 45% vegetable-derived thanks to the fact that the lauryl alcohol that forms the basis of the ingredient is of vegetable origin. ColaMate LA-40 is said to be sulfate-free, ethoxylate-free, and 1,4 dioxane-free, claims that make it ideal for a range of natural-based and sulfate-free formulations. 

The development team has worked towards creating an ingredient that is very dense and provides good foaming properties when combined with a range of personal care cleansers, while also being mild on the eye and good for sensitive skin types. Of specific interest to formulators, unlike some sulfosuccinates, it is said to provide good viscosity response when formulated with other anionics and is also suitable for clear formulations. 

Complying with North American, EU, Australia and China regulatory bodies, it is said to be long-lasting, have a talc-like after-feel, has a light colour with no odour and is compatible with a range of surfactants. It is suitable for a range of formulations, including shampoos, bubble baths, body washes and gels, face washes and hand soaps. 

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