The desire to slow down the ageing process and maintain youthful, radiant skin has driven the global demand for anti-ageing products for decades. From creams and serums to advanced dermatological treatments, the cosmetic industry has seen an explosion of products claiming to reverse or delay the effects of ageing.

One of the most exciting developments in this field is the emergence of senolytics, a class of compounds originally studied in longevity science for their potential to improve overall health and delay age-related decline.

What are senolytics?

Senolytics are compounds that specifically target and eliminate senescent cells, often referred to as “zombie cells.” These dysfunctional cells stop dividing but remain metabolically active, releasing harmful inflammatory signals that accelerate aging process, disrupt surrounding tissue and contributing to visible skin issues like wrinkles, decreased elasticity, and uneven skin tone. By clearing these cells, senolytics help restore balance, rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.

How do senolytics work in skincare?

Senolytics in cosmetics represent a significant departure from traditional approaches to anti-ageing skincare.

While most conventional products focus on hydration, collagen stimulation, or antioxidant protection – which target the skin’s surface or just beneath it – senolytics go deeper, addressing aging at its core.

Senolytics target the source of chronic skin ageing by clearing senescent cells. By eliminating these aged cells, they reduce inflammation and allow healthier cells to thrive, creating an optimal environment for skin regeneration. The result is enhanced cellular renewal, with skin’s natural repair mechanisms functioning more effectively.

Moreover, removing senescent cells reduces the pro-inflammatory cytokines they secrete, calming the skin and potentially reducing redness or irritation.
Incorporating senolytics into skincare products requires advanced formulation techniques to ensure their stability, efficacy, and safe delivery.

These powerful compounds can be effectively utilized in various types of skincare formulations. For example, they can be included in anti-ageing serums that target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin, helping to restore a more youthful appearance.

Senolytics can also be incorporated into brightening treatments aimed at reducing uneven skin tone and enhancing the skin’s natural radiance. Additionally, they are valuable in recovery products, designed to calm inflammation and support sensitive skin, helping to maintain overall skin health and balance.

Examples of senolytics in cosmetic products

The potential benefits of senolytics have not gone unnoticed by the cosmetic industry, and several brands are beginning to explore their use in skincare formulations.

While the field is still developing, certain natural senolytic ingredients are gaining popularity:

• Quercetin – a flavonoid found in fruits, vegetables, and plants. Quercetin has gained attention for its senolytic properties. It works by targeting and eliminating senescent cells, making it an attractive ingredient in anti-ageing serums and creams.

• Fisetin – another flavonoid with senolytic activity. Fisetin has been shown to reduce signs of ageing in animal studies and is being explored for inclusion in cosmetic formulations aimed at improving skin health and appearance.

• Natural extracts and botanicals – several natural ingredients (grape extract, alpine willowherb, green tea extract, pomegranate extract, etc.) are being tested for their potential senolytic effects. These plant-based ingredients are valued for their ability to promote skin rejuvenation by supporting cellular renewal and combating oxidative stress, offering promise as complementary components in advanced anti-aging formulations.

Why should brands consider senolytics?

As consumers become more educated about skincare, they demand solutions that go beyond surface-level results. Senolytics align perfectly with this trend, offering a unique opportunity for brands to stand out with a scientifically advanced, research-backed approach to anti-ageing.

The demand for sustainable beauty products is also on the rise, and some natural compounds fit within this trend, offering an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. By incorporating senolytics into their product lines, brands can appeal to a growing base of consumers seeking both efficacy and sustainability.

Future directions

While research on senolytics is still in its early stages, its implications for skincare are vast. As science progresses, we may see the development of combination therapies, where senolytics are paired with other powerful ingredients, such as retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants, to create a comprehensive approach to skin rejuvenation. These synergistic formulations could deliver more effective anti-aging benefits compared to standalone products.

Customization of skincare routines may also become more common, with personalized products tailored to individual skin concerns and ageing patterns. The growing understanding of cellular senescence and its impact on ageing will likely lead to more personalized skincare treatments.
Products may be developed to target the specific types of senescent cells present in an individual’s skin, enhancing the effectiveness of anti-aging solutions.

Beyond combating the visible signs of ageing, senolytics could offer solutions for other skin conditions associated with inflammation and cellular dysfunction, such as hyperpigmentation and chronic sensitivity. This expanding scope underscores the potential of senolytics to transform not only anti-ageing strategies but also broader aspects of skin health and care.

Senolytics represent an exciting frontier in the cosmetic industry, offering a novel and scientifically-backed approach to combat ageing. By targeting and eliminating senescent cells, these compounds have the potential to transform the way we think about skincare and anti-ageing.

As research progresses and more products incorporate senolytic ingredients, consumers can look forward to more effective, long-term solutions for maintaining youthful, glowing skin. With their ability to reduce inflammation, promote skin regeneration, and boost collagen production, senolytics could very well become the next big thing in the quest for age-defying beauty.

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The skin barrier is the outermost skin layer and includes the stratum corneum, its microbiome and its chemical composition. This layer is rich in different classes of lipids, such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and other more hydrophilic substances such as filaggrin, lecithins, amino acids, sugars and proteins. The global skin barrier care products market has a projected value of US$1.6 billion by 2024 and has a projected value of US$2.2 billion by 2031, with an estimated CAGR of 4.7% for this period. This market size represents a great opportunity for innovation for the cosmetics industry.

This layer has various functions, such as protecting the body from external agents and preventing irritating or dangerous substances, as well as bacteria, viruses and allergens, from entering the body. Among its most important functions is preventing water loss. It also helps regulate body temperature. On the other hand, the skin barrier allows us to feel tactile sensations, such as touch, pressure and pain. That is why it is a very important element of our sensory system.

¿What factors can damage the skin barrier? Harsh soaps and cleansers can remove the skin’s natural lipids, making it more vulnerable to irritants. Hot water can strip skin of its natural oils and make it drier. Dry weather can also dehydrate the skin and damage the skin barrier. UV rays can damage skin cells and weaken this barrier. Certain skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis can also damage it.

¿Why is barrier care trending? During the pandemic we suffered the deterioration of the barrier due to the excessive use of soaps and sanitizers. Photos of doctors and nurses with skin conditions due to excessive use of masks were famous on social networks. On the other hand, global warming, stress and pollution continue to rise. That’s why consumers are now more aware that healthy skin begins with a healthy skin barrier. Consumers know that when the skin barrier is damaged, the skin can become dry, irritated, sensitive and prone to problems such as eczema, rosacea and acne. Next, we’ll look at some of the booming trends in barrier care.

O₂  my skin!: This year we have seen new studies that indicate how low oxygen levels can alter the health of the skin barrier. The industry is developing innovative biochemical mechanisms to increase skin oxygenation to restore vitality and promote barrier health. Soothing is the new black.

Repair, repair & repair: Claims related to repair are presented as one of the big trends in skincare for this year. Xerosis is now one of the main targets in facial care. Statistics indicate that this condition is very common, with almost a third of the population suffering from it. Dry skin can have a significant impact on the quality of life of consumers and if not treated correctly, it can lead to eczema or atopic dermatitis, which is a condition that causes very dry skin, itching and inflammation. This dermatitis is chronic and usually worsens periodically.

Skin barrier month: Recently a well-known brand of barrier treatment products declared May 2024 as Skin Barrier Awareness Month. This proposition is interesting because we are seeing brands helping to transform the way consumers are approaching the skin barrier and overall skin health.

Inclusive barrier: Skincare is also inclusive. We are seeing very interesting scientific advances on the biochemical characteristics of the barrier of different skin types, which translates into innovative launches in concepts related to the care of the skin barrier rich in melanin, in darker skin tones, male barrier skin care, barrier care in people who are making gender transition, in patients receiving chemotherapy, in babies, children and adolescents, among others.

Tweens skincare: In recent months we have seen several reports about the trend of tweens obsessed with skincare products. This has caused several dermatologists and professionals to speak out on the matter, indicating the care and precautions that this group of consumers should take with facial treatments. Experts indicate that skin care routines at an early age can have some benefits, for example encouraging young people to establish healthy habits from the beginning, but there are also risks, experts warn. Social networks are essential to promote the proper use of cosmetic products in the tweens segment. Responsible product design for this market segment represents a great opportunity for the industry. Cleansers, basic moisturizers and sunscreens are the basics for this target.

Science backs it up: The consumer looks for products, ingredients and solutions with scientific support. Innovations in ceramides and hyaluronic acid are the main protagonists in this category.

Less is more: We are seeing a very interesting trend in the market. Gone are the days of ten-step routines. Consumers want simpler, more effective solutions and routines.

Microbiome matters: Definitely, the developments in the care of the microbiome are fundamental for the development of this category. Studies and new findings on the connection between the microbiome and skin health are opening the doors to new concepts, mechanisms, benefits and claims.

Men’s skin barrier: As demand for skin care products that target the skin barrier increases, so do the options available for men. There is an increasing range of products designed specifically for the needs of men’s skin, which is characterized by a thicker texture, higher levels of sebum production and a specific repair need when daily shaving occurs. Sheet masks are gaining ground in men’s cosmetics.

The focus on strengthening the skin barrier has become a critical trend in skin care. Products aimed at improving barrier function help protect the skin from environmental pollutants, irritants and allergens, while maintaining moisture levels. Dysfunction of the skin barrier results in skin diseases that can be treated with specially designed skincare products. 2024 is presented as the year of “barrier-loving skincare”.

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There’s so much innovation happening in the beauty world.  Now that we’re finally back in real life for tradeshows and events, the new technology being offered is encouraging and inspiring.

I’ve selected a few favorites to share:

Clariant’s Plant Milking technology is an innovative and sustainable plant cultivation method:

• The process uses the richest part of the plant: the
• Plants are grown in an aeroponic (soilless) culture. Root exudation is a non-destructive process that “milks” the same plants several times a year.
• The process allows exploration of unusual plant species, difficult-to-access plant parts, and rare compounds, while preserving biodiversity.
• A highly controlled environment stimulates the plants to produce targeted molecules in higher quantities: this enhances the phytochemical profiles.
• The desired ingredients are more concentrated than in a “natural” environment.
• The process provides greenhouse farming advantages, which means protection from aggressors and extreme environments.

There are numerous benefits of the Plant Milking technology:

• It’s eco-friendly: there is biocontrol, recycled water is used, few plant resources are required.
• There is no plant destruction during harvest.
• Plant capacities are optimized.
• The process permits full traceability from seed to active ingredient.

Biocogent’s DermaPhage® technology is worth exploring and understanding.

Phages are found wherever bacteria are present. They are natural microorganisms that are harmless to humans and only interested in targeting bacteria. An imbalance of these phages on our bodies is associated with obesity, bowel disorders, acne and other diseases.

Biocogent’s products are infused with a unique combination of three phages that target specific bacteria in the skin microbiome. Grounded in a discovery made more than a century ago, these phages have a phenomenal safety profile, coupled with clinically proven efficacy. Phages are ubiquitous in the environment and recognized as the most abundant biological agent on earth. Biocogent’s technology offers a targeted approach to dealing with a variety of different skin conditions.  Acne is Biocogent’s first target, to be followed by other types of treatment.

This approach to target the bacteria contributing to blemish flare-ups is a game changer.

Bacteriophages

• exist naturally on our skin
• are sustainably sourced and naturally occurring
• have been part of nature for billions of years
• are harmless to humans and have no side effects
• are very effective in targeting certain bacterial skin problems

Taiki Bōshi Beauty Products are instantly dissolving waterless products made from nano-spun polymers.

• Electrospun nanofibers are made using water soluble polymers, like Hyaluronic Acid.
• The nanofibers, which are 100-1000x smaller than an average human hair, are easily dissolvable with a few drops of water.
• Efficacious levels of active ingredients can be added: Hyaluronic or Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide and Vitamin C to name a few.
• Minimal fillers allow for concentrated, high performing formulas for better delivery of actives and product effectiveness.
• Removal of water allows for preservative-free formulations.
• The product can take various forms such as small patches or “pillows.”

Taiki Boshi Technology

KDC/One has a collection of remarkable, surprising and delightful product textures for skincare.

I selected formats that are particularly appealing in warm summer weather.

• Moisture Burst Gel Cream Facial Moisturizer: an all in one, lightweight gel cream with a cooling finish. The skin feel is watery and refreshing, leaving a slight radiance.
• Refreshing Body Sorbet: This cooling, translucent gel looks like sorbet, and feels energizing and refreshing on the skin. It absorbs quickly, leaving a light satin skin feel, with no stickiness or residue.
• Satin Touch Body Lotion: This silky, hydrating, lightweight lotion is serum like. It is fast absorbing, leaving a light, moisturizing sensation without any tacky residue.
• Jelly Body Wash: This amusing, wiggly, jello-like texture body wash is a real surprise in the shower! It transforms from a dense jelly to a squishable layer of foam. Travel friendly, space saving and just fun to use!

Jelly Body Wash

Obviously, these beautiful textures can be customized with fragrance, color and key skincare ingredients.  The sensory experience provides a great reminder that innovation has many forms.

This is a sampling of some of the news suppliers are bringing to market. These examples cover:

• concentrated, sustainable plant-based ingredients
• an anhydrous delivery system for concentrated ingredients
• a side-effect-free, efficacious acne treatment
• sensorially rich product textures

It’s an exhilarating time for the beauty industry. Growth is forecast for approximately 6% annually in the coming years. New distribution channels are popping up in unexpected places. AI is here and redefining the business.

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To have Korean ‘glass’ skin is the epitome of beauty in the east – so much so this ideal is also highly sought after in the west. Glass skin appears perfectly clear without blemishes or pores and is incredibly radiant. This blog explains how to formulate Korean skincare to achieve the ideal glass skin.

Another place to get insights on the latest K-Beauty trends is at in-cosmetics Korea. Happening in Seoul on 12-14th July and featuring the K-Beauty Inspiration Zone, it will give you more in-depth knowledge into K-Beauty and its trends.

Essential Korean cosmetic ingredients

Reputable skincare brands in Korea contain a host of traditional and modern active ingredients. Some of these hail benefits from traditional Korean medicine, but all have very natural origins. To harness the essence of Korean skincare, make sure your cosmetic formulas contain at least a few of these ingredients:

• Korean ginseng extract – also known as Panax ginseng, this ancient root goes back millennia in traditional Korean medicine for a myriad of benefits. Korean ginseng extract is most widely used in leave on skincare for its anti-ageing benefits, as it helps reduce fine lines and brighten the appearance of the skin for a more youthful appearance. Learn how to add liquid herbal extracts to formulas with this video.
• Licorice root extract – another plant extract with its origins in traditional Eastern medicine, licorice root is a favourite in Korean skincare for its skin lightening, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory results. Look for extracts particularly rich in glycyrrhizic acid for the most potent benefits; and layer it in a few leave on products for outstanding visible effects. Some licorice extract comes in a powdered form; watch how to add powdered extracts to formulas with this video. 
• Gotu kola extract – also known as Centella asiatica extract, this is yet another herbal extract with traditions in medicine. In skin care, gotu kola is used for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits to calm and sooth the skin – an ideal ingredient to help achieve the appearance of glass skin.
• Yuza (yuja) extract – sourced from the pristine Jeju island, yuza extract is extremely rich in vitamin C for skin lightening and softening benefits. This is an important ingredient in serums or moisturisers as part of an overall skin care regime.
• Snail mucin (also listed as snail secretion filtrate) – rich in hydrolysed glycosaminoglycans, this highly purified filtrate is a favourite amongst Koreans for its hydrating and suppleness benefits. Its skin plumping and luminosity results can be seen almost immediately and can even boost delivery of other actives.
• Rice water – ideal to replace some of the water in a formulation, rice water boasts significant skin toning and firming benefits. It is ideal for pore refining in micellar cleansing and serum formulas. Get inspiration from our video rice milk micellar cleanser.
• Bamboo water, extract or exfoliant – bamboo water and extract both refine the pores and soothe the skin for a luminous complexion; while finely ground bamboo gives a delightfully soft but effective exfoliating polish, just perfect to make that glass skin perfectly smooth.
• Pearl extract – what is more luminous and perfect than a pearl? Pearl extract is rich in minerals to provide the same visible results in skincare.
• Propolis – sourced naturally from beehives, this important structuring and anti-bacterial ingredient is a nutrient powerhouse with multiple benefits for the skin. At least one of the products in your Korean skincare range should contain this multi-active ingredient.

Other ingredients your Korean skincare formulas will benefit from include:

• Vitamin C – can be used in products where you are not already using yuza extract;
• Hyaluronic acid – with suppleness boosting benefits, it is an essential ingredient in most Korean moisturising creams. Read how to choose the best hyaluronic acid for your cosmetic formulas in this blog;
• Green tea extract – antioxidant rich, it is also commonly found in Korean cosmetic formulas;
• Collagen – provides essential structuring and moisture protective benefits, learn how to use and select protein, peptides and collagen in cosmetic formulas with this video.

The skincare products needed for Korean glass skin

Korean skincare routines contain a long list of products for a layered approach. Make sure the selection of actives and ingredients in your cosmetic formulas delivers just the right amount of each for the best results.

1. The double cleanse:
   1. the first cleanse is an oil-based balm or serum to remove make up and stubborn pollutants. Watch how to make natural cleansing oils and balms with this video.
   2. the second cleanse is to remove any oily residues and ensure pores are open for a deep clean. Watch how to create a gentle but deep cleansing micellar cleansing foam here.
2. Exfoliate: use a crème based exfoliant with a natural exfoliating ingredient. Watch this video for a variety of natural exfoliant ingredients.
3. Toner: the toner should provide instant tightening and pore refining benefits; rice water is an ideal addition here.
4. Serum: the serum could be a non-greasy oil based serum, but would more commonly be a water based serum formula with an active mentioned at the start of this article to lay the foundation of hydration. The serum should leave the skin looking dewy but without residue, as more products are yet to be applied.
5. Moisturise: the moisturiser should be a very light gel-cream formula packed with hydrating and skin lightening benefits. Products for more mature skin should promote anti-ageing and skin lightening benefits. The moisturiser is all about bringing the glow to the skin without greasiness.
6. Sunscreen: an SPF protective product is essential for day use, to reduce any tanning or damaging impact of the sun. Koreans admire light, luminous skin – UV is the enemy of this goal! Read our overview of how to make sunscreen formulas here.
7. Face masks: a staple in the Korean skincare routine, face masks are used to enhance the hydrating, lightening and perfecting effects of the other products in your range. Face masks are typically used three times a week, or sometimes more; and the traditional sheet mask is slowly being replaced by the more environmentally friendly sleep-in mask.

Koreans are also quite playful with their skincare – so they may look for funky or different product forms for the above products. Watch this playlist for some fun and creative skincare formulas to really wow your target market with different product formula solutions for their skincare needs.

Korean skincare is all about hydrating and caring for the skin – you won’t see harsh or powerful chemical peels in their routines! Instead, their layering effect is designed to soothe and comfort the skin with the right actives for a gentle yet effective brightening and luminosity results.

Bring glass skin results to women all over the world with these ingredient and formulating tips.

Happy formulating!

Fascinated with Korean skincare? Visit in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul from 12 to 14 July!

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Sponsored – by Active Concepts

Tap into an innovative approach to neurocosmetics and upcycling. Say goodbye to outdated notions and make way for a new era where wrinkles are no longer ‘imperfections’ but rather stories of our journey!

The ability of the senses to help shoppers create long-lasting emotional and memory-based experiences is what gives them such significance in the cosmetic industry. Consumer interest in the relationship between cosmetics and biological responses, as well as how scientifically they might enhance feelings, mood, senses, and skin health, is at an all-time high.

The notion behind neurocosmetics is that some topical ingredients have the power to influence the skin, stimulate the neurological system, and have a positive impact on our wellness by evoking certain feelings and experiences. The recent discovery that bitter receptors exist not only on the tongue but also throughout the entire epidermis may mark a new age for the study of neurocosmetics and present new potential for the creation of cutting-edge cosmetics.

Active Concepts has developed AC AmaraSense: a bitter blend comprised of licorice root, willow bark, and artichoke extract, substances recognized for their bitter taste and positive effects both on body and skin health. Licorice root is characterized by glycyrrhetinic acid, it is recognized for antioxidative, lenitive, and antimicrobial activities, white willow bark extract is characterized by tannic acid, it is known for wound healing and antimicrobial properties – artichoke is recognized for its purifying properties, and is rich in antioxidants that help to prevent oxidant stress and promote skin health.

AC AmaraSense represents a new ingredient launch that serves as the basis for creating cutting-edge cosmetics that activate sensory receptors on the skin and provide customers with new perspectives on how to take care of their skin and attain a glowing complexion. A distinctive and alluring narrative for a simple-to-use water-soluble product that can satisfy the growing demands of the modern consumer: a scientifically supported, efficient, and innovative beauty regimen.

Moreover, a new way of thinking about anti-aging has emerged as a result of the movement toward self-care and well-being that was heavily promoted during the COVID-19 epidemic. Consumers are more realistic about the anticipated outcomes now that anti-aging marketing that promised to erase wrinkles and other aging symptoms has  instantly ended. The skin is seen by the younger generation as an extension of the body. Self-acceptance is a prevailing trend nowadays. In this context, the idea of “positive aging” is gaining popularity.

Diet has a huge impact on our looks, health, and happiness. A diet rich in fresh produce, whole grains, lean protein, and low in sugar is highly advised and the Mediterranean diet, one of the healthiest diets that is great for your body and health, places a big emphasis on olive oil. The cultivation of olive trees, the production of olive oil, and the use of olive oil have all been known and practiced in the Mediterranean region for over 7000 years.

When olive oil is extracted, only a small portion of the total number of polyphenols in the olives are transferred to the oil, while a sizable portion is kept as olive vegetation fluids (OVW).  OVW used to be dispersed throughout farms, but because of their heavy organic pollution, they had a detrimental effect on the ecosystem. In light of sustainability, it is now more important than ever to revitalize olive waste.

Active Concepts is tackling this environmental concern head-on and turning a problem into a sustainable solution with AC OleaShield. The biofermentation of recycled olive vegetation water used to develop AC OleaShield gives it powerful antioxidant qualities by way of the autophagy detoxifying process. With this new active ingredient, Active Concepts is able to utilize renewable resources ethically and efficiently while providing advantages for the skin, including preserving skin homeostasis to combat age-related reduction in skin cell function.

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By Karina Soeiro

Finding solutions that bring together innovation, sustainability, and practicality for the dermo-cosmetics market is vital for companies in this sector.

Combining these requirements with a solution that facilitates the overcoming of some pharmacy technical challenges, such as the oxidation and instability of some inputs, is a viable option through the development of a new cosmeceutical formulation – the skincare capsules.

Skincare capsules, contrary to what the name may suggest, are not nutraceuticals that work in synergy with topical products to promote skin health or beauty.

Skincare capsules are a new form of skincare cosmeceuticals that meet the growing demand for innovative products that are more sustainable, and eudermic and make the daily routine more practical.

The absence of water and preservatives in its formulation, the practicality when travelling and the possibility of refilling bring skincare capsules countless advantages for both the consumer and the formulator.

Allied to these benefits, the skincare capsules refer to the consumer’s desire to be an active part of their care routine and meet the “Do it yourself” mood practically and objectively: a jar of cosmetic capsules, a small Pasteur pipette of 0.5mL and mineral water is all the consumer needs to prepare their own cosmetic.

In order to add value to this concept, a skincare capsule holder (to carry a small amount in the handbag or even trips), a mini crucible to facilitate preparation, and the possibility of refilling the capsules, make a kit of eye-popping innovations whole.

The capsules used can be either conventional gelatine, or vegan options that are easy to disintegrate, such as Pululam capsules, made from the natural fermentation of cassava starch (tapioca). Gelatin capsules, in addition to being of animal origin, disintegrate slower in the presence of water when compared to the tapioca version (Tapiocaps).

Plus, if they are used as skincare capsules, it is highly suggested that the capsule be discarded once opened, using only its content’s powder that will change into an emulsion in the presence of water, or, what is more practical, the use of the tapioca capsule that will disintegrate and be homogenised to its content in the presence of water with the aid of a spatula.

Another considerable advantage of using pullulan capsules is the formation of a tensor film that promotes an immediate lifting effect with a dry and velvety touch, much appreciated by consumers.

For the formulator, the possibility of an anhydrous formulation and extemporaneous use represents a great tool to deliver inputs that oxidize or undergo hydrolysis in the presence of water, providing stability to the formulation, allowing the use of unstable inputs that represent a pharmacy technical challenge as a classic example: the Ascorbic Acid.

In addition to stability, skincare capsules are practical, since they can be transported in unit doses on trips or in the handbag, taking up less space and preventing accidents such as breakage and product leakage in suitcases.

They are also formulations considered “milder” as they do not require the use of antimicrobial preservatives and antioxidants, such as sodium metabisulfite, which is known for its potential for skin sensitization in individuals with skin that is more predisposed to inflammatory reactions such as contact dermatitis caused by chemical agents.

The research and development of formulations in topical capsules must take into account the classes of important inputs to compose an emulsion formulation, such as humectants, emollients, consistency agents, emulsifiers in solid form (preferably in powder) and sensory modifiers as an excipient to fill the total volume of the capsules.

It is possible to include liquid ingredients in small amounts, especially oils, esters and non-polar active ingredients, taking into account the limitations of this pharmaco-cosmeceutical method, such as the choice of liquid polar ingredients, due to the fact that this formulation is dispensed in a capsule whose composition is a water-soluble polymer, and contact with polar liquids would inevitably initiate its disintegration.

The formulator must take into account the final volume of the formulation after reconstitution when calculating the amount of each ingredient, and the excipient must be calculated based on the volume of the chosen capsule and the density of the sum of the inputs, as in the example of the formulation below.

Skincare Capsule for skin ageing treatment

Ingredient / Concentration / Amount for producing 30 capsules

1. Ascorbic Acid 20% (uncoated), 12g
2. Relievene ^® (Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and) Carnosine (and) Alanyl Glutamine) 0,3%, 0,6g
3. N Acetyl D Glucosamine 5%, 3g
4. Physavie ^® (Physalis Angulata Extract (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 0,2%, 0,12g
5. Revinage^® (Bidens Pilosa Extract (and) Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (and) Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil (and) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil )1%, 0,6g
6. Cellfie^® (Water (and) Propanediol (and) Lecithin (and) Glycerin (and) Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract) 2 %, 1,2g
7. Fragrance 1%, 6g
8. Lactose 2%, 1,2g
9. Olive Oil Powder 2%, 1,2g
10. Lecigel^® (Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin) 1,78%, 1,068g
11. Makibeads 80 ^® (Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer). q.s.p

Preparation procedure

1. Weigh phase A in a mortar and grind with the aid of a pestle. Pass through sieve mesh 20 (approximately).
2. Add phase B over phase A and homogenise.
3. Add phase C over phase A+B and homogenise. Then add phase D, then to E and repeat the procedure.
4. Add phase F geometrically (check the density and required amount of Makibeads 80® to fill number 0 Tapiocaps capsule).
5. Proceed with encapsulation and fill in a cosmetic container.

Important note: These formulations were made and standardized in Tapiocaps number 0 (standardized with a theoretical volume of 0.68mL or 500mg), plus 1.5mL of water, totalling approximately 2mL after reconstitution, so the calculation of the inputs in percentage is done using a reference dose of 2 mL times the total number of capsules produced.

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For a few years, the term “sourced locally” carried with it an air of exclusivity, while also giving a nod to those eco-conscious movements that, for a while, seemed to be more of a trend than a consumer demand.

Then COVID happened. Supply chains suffered. And we’ve begun to realise the richness of what’s in our backyard in a more mainstream way.

This does two things: It allows an industry to celebrate ingredients that have been right under people’s noses for a long time, and it creates a demand and interest into further developments of sustainably grown and processed ingredients.

By the way, when I say “our backyard” I am referring to the Pacific in general. Our quiet, somewhat protected corner of the world.

It’s been a long time since I wrote about what’s happening in the industry. A lot has changed! There’s been a lot of pivoting, and some business and industry casualties. But with that comes opportunity: new ways, new ideas and quite a lot of new learnings.

New Zealand has weathered the storm well, a small Island in the South Pacific that was once self-sufficient has had to learn how to do this again. Enter the newly celebrated movement of “locally sourced ingredients”.

Number 3 in Global Cosmetic and Personal Care Trends is The Rise of “Geographic Hotspots”. This is true for any geographic region of the world, and with New Zealand’s reputation for its clean green ingredients – along with those from our South Pacific neighbours – it’s something we can look to leverage from.

A move toward country-branded beauty has also gained steam, and the “made in” stamp on cosmetics products allows brands to capitalize on their own cultural associations.

Globalization and renewed interest in travel and culture helps drive this influential beauty trend and I can assure you the South Pacific is abundant in beautiful exotic ingredients.

We could have never predicted the strain we would have on our supply chain and cosmetic manufacturing. With lead times and freight costs blowing budgets we are forced to look closer to home for new ingredients for cosmetics and highlight our own cultural associations. I think I speak for all of the South Pacific when I say we are absolutely OK with that!

The benefits of sourcing ingredients within our own country is a direct reflection of what the solutions to challenges that COVID has presented us:

• Reducing carbon footprint
• Reduced lead times
• Transparency
• Country ownership/identity

I’d like to introduce some of the new – and locally sourced – natural raw ingredients that have recently caught my eye for personal care formulation.

OceanDerMX range (Stewart Island)

Intriguingly unique, bioavailable and multitasking bio actives that adds a supreme level of 100% natural anti-aging, moisture binding, antioxidant and pollution protecting elements to your cosmetic products by enhanced delivery of its own as well as added actives

Clinically Proven – Lift & Firm, Restore & Protect, Balance & Brighten, Calm & Soothe

https://organicbioactives.com/

VALÉRE KELP (Akaroa), Certified Organic, NZ Harvested, Healthy, Traceable, Sustainable

NZ Giant kelp(Macrocystis pyrifera) is harvested fresh from living kelp forests. It grows abundantly in the cool sheltered waters around the South Island and is one of the fastest growing organisms on the planet. It is  harvest within 1m of the sea surface leaving the bulk of the plant to regrow and remain as shelter for living organisms. Harvesting Giant kelp is like the lawn mowing of the ocean – except the lawn grows back at up to 50cm a day!

After harvesting it is dried gently using air flow and dehumidification. During the drying process, temperatures never go above 30°C. This is to retain the natural flavour and nutrients. It is then simply crushed and sieved to two sizes – Fine & Powder, with an extremely high Iodine content.

https://www.nzkelp.co.nz/valere

NZ EXTRACTS (Marlborough) use the world’s first 100% aqua pure water extraction process to produce gold standard, waste-free products from fruit, berries & plants into multifunctional bio-active ingredients for the food & beverage, health & well-being & beauty & skincare industries.

VINANZA^® BLANC XGS (Upcycling at its best)

Clinically proven by a leading Japanese University:

• Anti-Ageing activity against accelerated ageing by UV Irradiation
• Stimulate collagen production
• Protect Skin Cells from oxidative stress
• Provide low ß-galactosidase activity of ageing maker

https://www.nzextracts.com/beauty-skincare/

MAILELANI COCONUT OIL (Samoa) The Direct Micro Expelling method (DME) is simple and environmentally friendly technique  founded by Kokonut Pacific, bringing “new life from the tree of life” to island coconut producers. With the DME process, virgin coconut oil is extracted only from fresh coconut flesh. The oil that is produced is excellent quality – handmade, natural, raw and unrefined, retaining all the original qualities. The oil is extracted from the coconut within one hour of splitting the seed. Small local teams grate the flesh, dry and load it into a press and hand- press it. The dry coconut residue is great for baking, so nothing gets wasted!

https://mailelani-samoa.com/the-coconut-oil-story/

May the next wave of industry innovation be abundant with the bountiful variety of ingredients and innovation that are – more often than not – right there in front of us.

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Feelings

In the formulation stages of marketing product development, do we ever think of the consumer’s “feelings” with product use?  Feelings – it’s that part of our inner emotional beingness where we experience sensations or moods like joy, comfort, thrill, sadness, happiness, etc.

Consumer well-being is trending in skincare and beauty products. How do we reach consumers’ emotionally in this new world of ours that is crammed with news, advertisements, protests, TikTok videos, and influencers grabbing for their attention?

Add daily interruptions from social media platforms or digital engagement and the expansion into the metaverse where it’s possible to lose connection of some of our senses altogether.

With brands tuning in to the latest beauty trends like mindfulness regimens, which incorporates observing being in the moment and our feelings, the opportunity to address emotions in beauty care development is truly holistic. Personal care raw material suppliers are happy to provide the exact ingredients to enhance the aesthetic product use experience that supports an emotional connection.

No longer are we inspired to only bring wholeness and healing to our physical bodies with products, now we consciously strive to heal our spirits and our inner selves along with the world around us through a multi-dimensional product experience.

It’s what I refer to as the “Sensoround” experience at BeautyEdge LLC. Sensoround brings your beauty brand vision to life.  It’s all about the product experience in today’s competitive beauty market. Visual and textural appeal… olfactory essences… an emotional and intellectual connection. BeautyEdge creates a specialized “sensoround” product experience appropriate to your brand.

The science behind sensory

Documented studies on the connection of sensory perceptions’ influence on consumer engagement and purchase abound. Neuroscience also plays a role in aesthetic appeal and product engagement. Brand and sensory experience leads to brand loyalty, translating into increased sales and revenues. Research shows that customers form their opinions about brands based on the perceptions formed by the sensory stimulation.

Below are sources for further exploration:

• In Aradhna Krishna paper “An integrative review of sensory marketing: Engaging the senses to affect perception, judgment, and behavior,” she reviews the consumer perception of product engagement with the five senses. Read more about her studies here:  https://aradhnakrishna.com/research/
• The American Journal of Industrial and Business Management highlights the Emotional Connect between Brand and Consumer through Sensory Branding
• The Journal of Product and Brand Management offers an abstract on the effect of sensory brand experience and involvement on brand equity directly and indirectly through cognitive, emotional and behavioral consumer brand engagement (CBE)
• An article in Science Focus highlights more than five (5) senses.

The brand to consumer connection

Let’s use a simple example that can offer powerful results considering sensory marketing and connecting emotionally to the consumer through product use. Perhaps you would like to launch a brand with the ingredient marketing story around “water.” It can be any type of water: mineral water, vitamin water, fruit water, etc.

When creating the aesthetic piece of the formula, identify what you would like the consumer to experience holistically, outside of the topical benefits of hydration, moisturization and protection. What are those inner experiential “feelings” that can be evoked that we cannot always identify as marketers?

For this “water” product story, a shower creates feelings of renewal and invigoration; a warm bath calms; and walking through summer rain brings inner peace.

These “feelings” are expressed through the product aesthetic itself. Given a “water fresh” brand story would mean for the most part that the aesthetic of the product/s may be a gel, gel cream, gelled souffle, a gelled-water – a lightweight texture with a luxurious cushion, and water wet feeling on application.

If you were to create this same product with an aesthetic texture that is buttery, or matte and draggy on skin, there would be a total disconnect to the consumer in the product experience. The use of the product would be kind of “flat” and that internal piece of “feeling good” in use would be confusing to the user.

The importance of aesthetic texture is higher than ever. Using it as the initial brand concept benchmark delivers uniqueness. Start brainstorming today and take the time to make sure your brand stands out from the crowd. Need advice getting started on new product or brand development? Reach out to us at BeautyEdge LLC

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(Promoted Content)

1. Due to the understandable growing environmental concerns of today’s consumers, Thor has designed a new Microcare®Eco product range with sustainability at the heart of its mission. Can you tell us more about how this product range employs a sustainable process?

Our innovative Microcare® Eco product range is based on the biomass balance approach. In this concept fossil feedstocks are substituted by renewable raw materials at an early stage in the value chain.

2. What kind of innovative ingredients is Thor working with in order to achieve the goal of sustainability?

The biomass balance process consists of the use of renewable and circular feedstock, derived from by-products of agricultural production, crop or food processing or organic waste residues. As the already available  organic feedstock is used in the process,  there is no impact on the environment and therefore
a real sustainable approach.

3. We’re hearing a lot of buzz words within the cosmetic industry and often they seem to be used interchangeably. Is there a difference between ‘sustainability’ and ‘naturality’?

Yes, there is. To replace fossil based raw materials by naturally sourced ingredients was a good intention. The problem is that we have a sugar-coated view about how the plants are cultivated and where they are coming from. As soon as it comes to mass production you need huge areas of arable land that could have been rainforests or untouched land in other parts of the world. You are intensifying monocultures and in most of the cases you need fertilizers, pesticides and additional water that will have a negative impact on the environment as well. Which means that the feedstocks natural but in no way sustainable.

4. What does it take for a company to gain the trust of consumers within the Eco space?

Recent market surveys are showing that consumers are really concerned about their future environment and that sustainability is a key driver when making purchase decisions. As a cosmetic manufacturer you need to build up credibility in terms of real eco-responsible ingredients and concepts. Once you have achieved that, you will gain a positive company image because your products are recognised as innovative and eco-friendly. And finally, you will gain a competitive advantage.

5. Can you tell us what ‘100% renewable raw materials’ means exactly, and how this can be guaranteed?

As explained, the biomass balance approach is based on organic waste. The raw materials themselves, as well as the whole value chain, is monitored by a certified process. Thor Germany and all products of our Microcare Eco portfolio have been successfully audited independently by a third party. As a result, we are allowed to say that 100% of the fossil-based raw material in the value chain required for the manufacturing of the specific product was replaced by sustainably certified biomass.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!The post Microcare® Eco: When sustainability goes beyond naturality first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/microcare-eco-when-sustainability-goes-beyond-naturality/feed/ 0 17083 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/the-new-cosmetic-normality-by-prof-carla-scesa-editor-in-chief-hpc-today-journal-tks-publisher/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/the-new-cosmetic-normality-by-prof-carla-scesa-editor-in-chief-hpc-today-journal-tks-publisher/#respond Tue, 29 Mar 2022 06:35:57 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=17039 By Prof. Carla Scesa, Editor in Chief, HPC Today Journal, Tks Publisher A rapidly changing world is influencing cosmetology, which today focuses not only on external beauty but on all the factors that generate wellness. In fact, we are addressing (especially in the more developed countries) people who are ageing (and Italy is in first […]