Compared to other types of personal care formulations, creating sunscreen formulas is not an easy task! There are considerable regulations to comply with, limits to the types and amounts of UV filters you can use, additional stability requirements for the sunscreen formula and ensuring SPF ratings are maintained. This blog explains how to create sunscreen formulas to get you started – and then it’s a matter of extensive sample development to get the end product just right.

Before you start formulating sunscreens…

The first thing you need to do is check whether sunscreen products are regulated as cosmetics or drugs in your region. There are also additional rules over ‘water resistance’ claims, warnings and certain label information required with all sunscreen products. Before you place a sunscreen product onto the market, make sure your brand has checked essential compliance requirements and conducts their own SPF testing specific to their sunscreen formula.

You can also find out more with our video: Should your cosmetic brand have a sunscreen product?

Be careful of sunscreen formula myths! Read this blog to be informed of common sunscreen formula myths and the truth behind them.

Here is an overview of how different countries regular products with SPF claims:

Choosing the sunscreen agents: organic vs inorganic UV filters

There are two types of sunscreen agents:

• Organic Sunscreens:
  • commonly referred to as chemical sunscreen agents, they work by absorbing UV light.
  • conform to organic chemistry principles but are NOT permitted in natural or organic sunscreen formulas.
  • common examples: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (also known as octyl methoxycinnamate); benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate.

• Inorganic Sunscreens:
  • commonly referred to as natural or physical sunscreen agents; they work by reflecting or scattering UV light.
  • conform to inorganic chemistry principles but ARE permitted in natural and organic sunscreen formulas (even though they are NOT actually all natural).
  • common examples: zinc oxide and titanium oxide.

Why do sunscreen formulas typically contain a combination of UV filters?

The combination of organic and inorganic sunscreen agents is used in many sunscreen formulas because a blend can help achieve a higher SPF and UVA rating, a broad-spectrum rating, and improvements to skin feel and sunscreen formulation stability. UV filters are very specific with the wavelengths of light in the UVA or UVB spectrum over which they are effective. To be considered ‘broad spectrum’, a sunscreen formula must contain sufficient coverage over a large amount of the UVA and UVB spectrum (from 290 – 400nm).

There are also regulatory limits over the types and amounts of sunscreen agents that can be used in a sunscreen formula. This means you can’t usually achieve the required SPF without combining at least a few sunscreen agents.

Sunscreen formulas: get the base right!

Even if you have a great combination of UV filters in a sunscreen formula, the SPF performance will be affected by:

• the way the product spreads: a smooth, even film on the skin provides the best SPF rating.
• product stability: if the base formula starts to separate or form lumps over time, application will not enable an even spread of the sunscreen ingredients.
• compatibility: UV agents cannot be allowed to agglomerate or crystallise over time.

Consider these images:

Both diagrams use the same quantity of incidental UV light (represented by the arrows) and UV filters (represented by the ovals). The image on the left provides an example of when UV filters agglomorate, resulting in a low SPF. The image on the right shows an even spread, to catch the most incidental UV light, which would yield a much higher SPF.

Step-by-step: how to create sunscreen formulas

Formulating sunscreens is not like formulating other personal care products. You will need to follow the steps below to create a sunscreen formula in theory, and then create samples, carefully evaluate, and amend your formula several times before you can get it just right and test the final product to confirm the required SPF results are obtained.

1. Determine UV filters and input amounts required to achieve the required SPF (in theory)
   • Check all inputs comply with local country regulations and provide broad spectrum UV protection.
2. Determine suitable lipids to ensure compatibility and even spread of the UV filters.
3. Add the lipid soluble UV filter input + selected lipids to determine the total lipid input. This will determine if your formula is likely to be w/o or o/w. Note: most sunscreens with high SPF are w/o or w/si emulsions because there is typically a high lipid/lipid soluble component needed to get a good spread and high SPF rating.
4. Select the emulsifiers + polymers to stabilise the UV filters and suit the formulation type.
   • Check all inputs comply with local country regulations and are compatible with the selected sunscreen ingredients.
5. Add compatible film formers for water resistance.
6. Double check the formula for stability and compatibility, remembering a stable formula with good spread helps yield the best possible SPF.

Then you are ready to source your materials and start preparing samples!

Watch these videos to see further guidance and sunscreen formulas:

• How to make a SPF50+ sunscreen formula
• How to make a natural sunscreen formula
• Clear sunscreen gel formula with glitter
• How to make zinc stick SPF30+
• How to make clear sunscreen stick SPF25
• SPF boosters – boost the SPF of your sunscreen formulas
• How to make organic SPF15 serum

Happy formulating!

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At the onset of every summer, many organizations publish their newest lists of the best sunscreens for that season. These lists tend not to agree with one another, and so the associated debates and disagreements continue, one season after another.

The root cause of this situation appears to be the less-than-clear definition of sunscreen performance, as well as its related testing methods.

Accordingly, let us attempt to explain this situation in layman’s terms and in the hopes of advancing better ideas from dedicated professionals in this field.

Let’s start by randomly quoting one of the latest best sunscreen lists: In CNN’s “The best sunscreens in 2023 tested by editors”, it is stated, “we didn’t test how well these sunscreens protect skin from the sun — for that, we relied on information from the US Food and Drug Administration and the experts we talked to.

Too many variables (skin type, time of day, the sun’s intensity, etc.) made it impossible to accurately measure efficacy in our real-world testing.

Rather, we had multiple testers with different skin types and tones test them for other variables such as feel, appearance on the skin, smell, ease of application and more.”

In other words, the performance and effectiveness of sunscreen, which are the primary reasons for using the product, have become so confusing that most people avoid the topic altogether.

Instead, they focus only on the sensory factors. Of course, sunscreens should be pleasant to wear so that people are willing to apply them. However, sensory factors should not replace effectiveness in the judgments of product quality.

We will focus on the performance aspect of sunscreen in our discussion here.

The metric most often used when describing sunscreen performance is SPF, the Sunscreen Performance Factor, which is a measurement of how long it takes for UV rays to hit and damage your skin. For example, SPF 30 means that when you wear this sunscreen, it will take you 30 times longer to burn compared to when you are not wearing any sunscreen at all.

Essentially, the sunscreen industry has adopted a performance metric that measures the UV ray dosage that reaches skin with sunscreen applied relative to the dosage that reaches skin without sunscreen.

Consequently, there are many variables that impact the measurable performance and apparent effectiveness of sunscreen. Skin type and irradiation source are commonly mentioned, as in the CNN article from earlier.

These two factors are important, but they are relatively easy to control. The skin type of a particular consumer is fixed, and when comparing the skin’s reaction to irradiation with and without sunscreen, the same sunlight source is normally used.

The largest variable influencing sunscreen’s effectiveness on a consumer’s skin is the amount of sunscreen applied and the quality of that application.

Due to the nature of UV prevention ingredients,  consumers cannot see with the naked eye the sunscreen that they have applied to their skin.

Therefore, they cannot easily judge if they have applied enough sunscreen or applied it evenly. However, the amount and uniformity of sunscreen on skin are the primary factors that determine the effectiveness of a particular sunscreen application.

Consumers are often told to use one ounce of sunscreen on their entire body; in other words, approximately enough sunscreen to fill a shot glass. This is obviously vague and not at all quantitative.

As for the quality of sunscreen application, which determines the uniformity of coverage on skin, this is even more difficult to perceive and is rarely conveyed to consumers.

The performances of sunscreens are professionally tested before the sunscreens are put on the market. There are several standard testing methods instituted by governmental and industrial regulatory organizations, but they are essentially the same in that they all measure the relative UV ray dosage that reaches the skin with and without sunscreen applied.

In these testing methods, the type of skin (substrate), the type of light source (irradiation), the amount of sunscreen (weight per area), and the end point (skin reddening or darkening) are carefully specified.

However, the quality of application (uniformity of coverage) is not carefully controlled or monitored. The end point determination is often a visual determination and is therefore not very quantitative.

These factors, coupled with the fact that tests are often measuring the last few percentages of the total irradiation reaching skin, make accurate sunscreen performance testing a well-known challenge.

For example, to tell the difference between SPF 50 (100/2) and SPF 100 (100/1) is to measure the difference between 2% and 1% of the original UV irradiation; consequently, small variations in measurements can lead to large differences in the calculated SPF.

As such, there have been many reported conflicts regarding the reliability of sunscreen efficacy tests.

In addition, it is logically challenging to test and label the performance of a sunscreen product when the product’s true performance is only on display after it is properly applied to a skin. It’s like trying to test a tube of oil paint to determine its degree of virtuosity, even though it can only attain virtuosity after being applied to canvas by a virtuoso.

The intended objective of applying sunscreen is to prevent harmful sun rays from reaching the consumer’s skin. Therefore, the only true test of a sunscreen’s effectiveness needs to be performed in real time, on the skin, and in a real-life scenario.

While an easy and convenient way to measure the real-life performance of sunscreen is not yet widely available, we hope that the obvious need for such a technology will soon motivate its invention.

Once a relevant performance metric becomes available to everyday consumers, they will be able to easily pick the best performing products. When that happens, the sunscreen industry will be fundamentally changed.

As we have detailed in past articles, sunscreen technologies that allow for pleasant and uniform coverage on skin are essential to the creation of sunscreen products that perform well in real life.

These products will enable every consumer to easily master the art of sunscreen application, thereby becoming the obvious number one pick of every best sunscreen list.

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Suncare will always be a hot topic in the world of personal care, and in this fascinating interview with Gobiotics, we learn more about the recovery of the skin’s microbiota after UV exposure, as well as how to help protect the natural protector of the skin. We also discuss PreBIULIN ORAL, Gobiotics’ new active ingredient for healthy teeth and oral hygiene.

(Sponsored post)

1. We all know that sun exposure causes damage to our skin, but how exactly does UV affect our skin’s microbiota?

UV light destroys the cell wall of all microorganisms. Their plasma leaks out of their body, which weakens them and even leads to cell death. You could say that the microbes bleed to death in the sun. Also, their mitochondrion, which provides them with energy is disrupted. Their essential proteins peroxides which lead to malfunction of the cell. But the worst is that the DNA is damaged, and the skin microbiota mutates. In other words, the skin microbiota is in serious trouble and so is the skin

2. You’ve recently conducted tests surrounding microbiota restoration after UV exposure, can you tell us more about that and what have you discovered?

We studied the evolution of the skin microbiota under different sun exposures. The tests we conducted started in 2018 and will be finalized this summer. However, we’ve already uncovered some interesting discoveries. To our surprise, we observed that the skin microbiota dies completely in less than 15 minutes of sun exposure – leaving the skin extremely vulnerable.

Using a sunscreen of SPF 30 could not protect the skin microbiota either. We were hoping that the use of preBIULIN AGA, our super prebiotic based on Agave inulin, could help but unfortunately, UV light is just too lethal. PreBIULIN AGA could not protect the skin microbiota, but it was able to make a significant difference in its recovery.

Without the use of preBIULIN AGA, the skin microbiota did not recover – even after 4 hours after sun exposure. What’s worse, the skin was seriously invaded with fungi and bacteria from the environment (microorganisms which do not protect the skin but, on the contrary, will exhaust it).

When preBIULIN AGA was used, the skin microbiota was mostly recovered, and the skin was shielded once again from the invasion of opportunistic microbes from the environment. With preBIULIN AGA, our well trusted microbiota was back on track and the skin was happy again.

3. What does this latest discovery mean for sun-care products and how should formulators and manufacturers adapt to this information?

At this moment sun care is solely focused on protecting the skin, but we have no tools to protect the protector of the skin: the skin microbiota. Our discoveries shed extra light on sun protection. The fact that the skin becomes dry and ages faster after sun exposure is also due to the disappearance of the skin microbiota. Let’s not forget that the skin microbiota produces powerful antioxidants that slow down skin ageing, reduces stress by regulating our inflammation process and finally the skin microbiota hydrates the skin.

When the skin microbiota dies, the skin ages faster, becomes more sensitive and becomes drier. Supporting the skin microbiota during and after sun exposure is essential. By adding just 1% preBIULIN AGA in sunscreens, after sun, day cream or night cream, the skin can be easily supported. It’s a simple formulaic modification, but it’s a game-changer for sun care. By adding preBIULIN AGA, you’re incorporating a Sun Recovery Factor (SRF) to your product.

Part two:

4. PreBIULIN ORAL is Gobiotics’ new active ingredient for healthy teeth. In what ways do natural ingredients elevate oral care?

Classic oral care products are based on killing and inhibiting bad bacteria that causes cavities, tooth decay, bad breath, and gum diseases. Alcohol, essential oils and cetylpyridinium chloride are the favourite synthetic tools to kill, and fluorine to inhibit. The issue is that oral microbiota protects us and supports the health of the entire body beyond our imagination. Here is just a short list of the beneficial properties of a balanced oral microbiota:

• Reduction of bacteria that causes caries, tooth decay, sensitive gums
• Supports the gut microbiota
• Regulates our blood pressure
• Protects us from throat pain, lung infections

The most resourceful and most powerful protector of the teeth/gum/breath and our entire body actually lives on the tongue and is called Streptococcus salivarius. PreBIULIN ORAL, is a natural prebiotic which, rather than killing the protective microbiome, reboots the oral microbiota super-fast and very efficiently.

5. In what ways does PreBIULIN ORAL offer transformative benefits to oral health and hygiene and in what ways can formulators incorporate this unique ingredient?

With PreBIULIN, formulators now have an ingredient that supports the oral microbiome. Standard Inulins do not offer sufficient support for the oral microbiome. preBIULIN ORAL has a different structure. The results obtained with preBIULIN ORAL are so impressive that we decided to patent.

Bad breath bacteria live on the tongue and brushing your teeth 10 times a day will not reduce it. Neither does rinsing the mouth with alcohol, as all this does is kill the natural regulator of the bad breath bacteria, which further perpetuates the issue. PreBIULIN ORAL is like a best friend to Streptococcus salivarius, as it also lives on the tongue. Together, they flourish and start to fight bad breath bacteria. We are so excited about PreBIULIN ORAL because of how efficiently it eliminates bad breath.

We also investigated what happens when you consume a high number of soft drinks and sugary food. Time after time, preBIULIN ORAL was able to restore the complete oral microbiota with just one rinse of the mouth or one round of teeth brushing. Formulators only need to add minimum 3.3% preBIULIN ORAL to mouth washes or toothpaste. The product is easy to incorporate and extremely stable.

As a lovely bonus, preBIULIN ORAL is also a low-calorie sweetener that will improve the taste of whatever products it’s added to.

You can look forward to seeing Gobiotics at in-cosmetics Global this year, or you can contact them directly with any queries.

Want to stay in the know when it comes to cosmetic ingredients? Delve into our bi-weekly round-up of the latest ingredients news and what that might mean for the industry.

L’Oréal research underlines benefits of ceramides in UV protection skin care

A team of researchers from L’Oréal’s R&D centre in Clark, New Jersey has published a peer-reviewed study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology that highlights the efficacy of ceramide formulations for the enhancement of UV protection in skincare products.

According to the research, a skincare regimen that includes a moisturizer and sunscreen formulated with ceramides can serve to protect against UV-induced skin barrier damage from sun exposure. The study evaluated how UV exposure can impact the skin barrier by using the equivalent of two hours of UV exposure during the peak of summer in New York City.

The L’Oréal team decided to demonstrate the impact of a ceramide-containing skincare formula by using CeraVe, the company’s own brand that is a combined sunscreen and moisturising product. The study found that the skin barrier cells that were UV-exposed and treated with the ceramide-containing moisturiser and sunscreen were preserved and mimicked the skin barrier cells that were unexposed to UV. This compared to untreated skin barrier cells, which when exposed to the same amount of UV showed significant damage.

According to the L’Oréal team, the study findings reinforce the benefits of ceramide-containing skincare formulations in helping to protect against UV-induced skin barrier damage, which can lead to barrier compromised eczema outbreaks.

“As the leader in therapeutic skincare, we at CeraVe are committed to working with dermatologists to better understand the skin barrier and develop efficacious formulas with critical ingredients for healthy skin, like ceramides, that deliver therapeutic solutions for all skin needs,” said Tom Allison, SVP and global head of professional marketing at CeraVe.

“We are proud to be a part of the L’Oréal Research and Innovation team that continues to lead the industry in scientific developments that help improve patient outcomes by providing safe and effective therapeutic skincare.”

Aqdot launches molecular capture and release technology

UK-based Aqdot has launched AqFresh; a multifunctional ingredient with a broad range of claims including capturing bad odours, making fragrances last longer and neutralizing viruses.

The technology is based on cucurbit(n)urils (CBs), which are barrel-shaped molecules that act as hosts to target guest molecules and form a supramolecular complex. CBs cover a wide range of molecules, including VOCs and proteins, which the technology has been developed to capture using either sprays or solution.

The development team at Aqdot says that because many allergens are small proteins, the CBs in Aqdot can inhibit allergens from binding to antibodies, while many viruses, SARS CoV-2 pseudovirus, have spike glycoproteins that can effectively be inactivated by the CBs. With respect to allergens, Aqdot says that Aqfresh can remove up to 100% of allergens, a claim that is validated by clinical data. On top of this, it is also non-toxic, safe for the air, soft furnishings, pets and children.

Aqfresh is also said to be up to100% effective in capturing and eliminating malodours without having to rely on fragrance to mask those odours. For this application it is also effective in solid and liquid formulas and works with a wide pH range, to deliver an instant and long-lasting effect.

The technology is also said to be effective against a broad range of indoor pollutants, including BTEX, chlorinated compounds and formaldehyde. For this application, cucurbit(n)urils can bind both sulphur oxides and nitrogen oxides.

AqFresh has also been independently tested by the Virology Department of Cambridge/Addenbrookes Hospital to prove its effectiveness against viruses, thanks to the use of protein complexation. This makes it a safe alternative to biocidal technologies.

When formulated with fragrance, AqFresh can also deliver a longer-lasting fragrance experience, prolonging fragrance release by up to 24 hours, while also significantly improving fragrance intensity.

Sabinsa patent count reaches 308

With the addition of two new patents for its Nigellin and Sabroxy ingredient offerings, Sabinsa says it has now reached a grand total of 308 separate patents.

Its collection of patent grants includes various established category-leading ingredients, including LactoSpore, Digezyme and Curcumin C3 Complex, as well as the addition of a growing number of new patents, as the company continues to ramp up its portfolio.

Sabinsa, which serves the cosmetics, supplements and nutrition industries, filed its first patent back in 1996 for its black cumin ingredient, which has a broad range of beneficial properties, underlined by a US patent to register the ingredient’s use for reducing blood glucose levels.

“I’m very proud that Sabinsa has reached the milestone of over 300 patented grants worldwide, and more are coming,” said Dr. Muhammed Majeed, founder and chairman of the Sami-Sabinsa Group.

“Our motto ‘Our Innovation is your Answer’ truly reflects the new products, nutritional supplements and formulations we develop in accordance with global standards to cater to the growing needs of the industry, and consumers.”

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Nanocellulose has been taking over the beauty and personal care world offering thickening, anti-wrinkle, sustainable, reduction of oiliness and many other effects that can be applied to cosmetics.

Rising concerns regarding the environment alongside market impetus for greater sustainability values are driving the demand for use of nanocellulose in personal care products, with the market for nanocellulose expected to grow from USD 297 million in 2020 to USD 783 million by 2025, at a CAGR of 21.3%.

Nanocellulose has proven itself to be an effective natural alternative to synthetic raw materials. Besides its environmentally-friendly features, it’s the extensive functions of the ingredient that comprise a real advantage for formulators. Properties include: highly absorbent, super strength, electrically-conductive, non-toxic, gas-impermeable, high tensile strength and lightness.

From hair, eyebrows and nail products to their very own packaging, the use case for nanocellulose are countless, with Asian companies now developing full lines of nanocellulose-based products. In fact, the market intelligence and advisory firm Mordor Intelligence see Asia Pacific as the fastest growing nanocellulose market in their most recent research.

Interested in deeper technical learnings about Nanocellulose? Here’s a 30-minute webinar session that’ll explore its benefits to skincare and suncare. The presentation will showcase a novel eco-friendly cosmetic raw material constructed from nanocellulose fibres, which has proven to hold large amounts of moisture and deliver a sun-boosting effect to the skin.

Key learning points:  

• Formulating for skin health and tan-like effect
• Making use of nanocellulose fibres and their large amounts of moisture

This is only one of the four sessions we’ll be hosting during The Science of K-Beauty Ingredients Day on 24 June. Learn all about each session, the ingredients you’ll discover and how to join on the event’s page here.

EWG says testing finds asbestos in talc

Tests carried out by the Scientific Analytical Institute in the US are said to have detected the notorious carcinogen asbestos in talc-based cosmetics.

The tests have been reported on by the Environmental Working Group (EWG), which says that the tests found 21 different cosmetic products covering various categories were found to have traces of the carcinogen in the formulas. 

The positive test results were demonstrated in three of a total of 21 cosmetic products, which included two eye shadow palettes and one toy make-up kit aimed at children. 

The EWG says it alerted both parents and consumers about the potential hazard in the products, which were removed from both Amazon and eBay.

A report of the findings has also been published in the Environmental Health Insights, a peer-reviewed scientific journal. 

Presently the Occupational Safety and Health Administration warns there is no safe level of exposure to asbestos, which is linked to several types of cancers, but most commonly mesothelioma and the scarring lung disease asbestosis. 

Kraton highlights its range of polymeric modifiers for oils: Ellamera

Netherlands-based cosmetic and personal ingredients solutions provider Kraton is currently platforming its newly launched comprehensive range of polymeric modifiers for oils. 

This indispensable new tool for formulators is called Ellamera  and has been created specifically to provide a tailored polymer range to suit the needs of the health and beauty market. 

According to the development team, Ellamera has been created to deliver a range of functions that include: 

•  Film formation
• Easy and uniform spreading
• Excellent suspension properties
• Water repellency
• Compatibility with a wide range of emollients

The complete range includes Ellamera RAD-Thick, Ellamera BI-THIN and Ellamera TER-SET, which are all soluble in low polarity carriers and oils, together with Ellamera PER-SUST, which is soluble in medium to high polarity carriers and oils. 

Each solution has been designed with different characteristics to tailor formulations to very specific needs that come about from complex requirements for a complete range of cosmetic and personal care products. 

RAD-THICK provides thickening, film formation and water repellency; BI-THIN provides viscosity, uniform spreading, film formation and water repellency; TER-SET provides structuring/cohesion and binding, whale PER-SUST provides structuring/cohesion and film formulation.

This type of flexibility makes the range compatible with a broad range of cosmetic formulations for the colour cosmetic, skincare, haircare and suncare markets, providing sensorial, natural, sustainable and enhanced colour attributes. 

Research highlights importance of food allergy warnings for infant skincare

Scientists at the Clinic of Children’s Diseases in Lithuania say that a range of skin products marketed for children should carry allergy warnings. 

According to the research, a range of skincare formulations marketed at children and infants should carry warning labels because they may contain traces of common food allergens such as almond, wheat and soy. 

The findings were published in the peer-reviewed Contact Dermatitis journals and aimed at discovering the prevalence of food allergens in a wide range of children’s skincare products. 

The study reviewed a total of 276 products sold in Lithuania, including creams, oils, wet wipes, shampoos and baby powder. 

All of the products were scanned for the presence of allergen food ingredients, with the findings showing that almost 40% contained at least one allergen. 

The research also discovered that products pertaining to be natural or ecological had a higher likelihood of containing food allergens.

While the researchers stressed that over 90% of the products tested were manufactured outside of Lithuania, they also concluded that food allergens were prevalent in children’s personal care products. 

Sytheon secures patent on skin ingredient

Sytheon’s research and development team say it has obtained a new US patent for Synoxyl AZ (Acetyl Zingerone) as a skin pigmentation treatment. 

The compound is already known for its non-sacrificial antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties, but the company’s latest research now focuses on its skin lightening attributes. 

US Patent 10.828.241 specifies that the compound’s skin lightening and even toning composition can be used on normal or hyperpigmented as part of skincare formulations targeting these conditions. 

The development team says that the new application for the ingredient means it can be used to enhance skin lightening, even-out skin’s natural colour tones or treat areas of skin darkening or hyperpigmentation, resulting from the sun or other environmental hazards. 

Additionally, it can also treat medical conditions such as acne that cause scar-induced hyperpigmentation, as well as skin ageing-relating conditions such as age spots, liver spots and freckles. 

The development team also claims that AZ can be combined with Synovea HR to enhance the effective treatment and control of skin pigmentation due to non-overlapping mechanistic pathways. 

Amorepacific and Kaist join forces on anti-ageing technology

In South Korea, Amorepacific’s research and development team is working together with the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAIST) on a project to reverse the ageing of skin cells. 

The collaborative effort had developed an original technology that is said to reverse the ageing process in human dermal fibroblasts.

The results of the project have been published in the online edition of the international scientific journal PNAS, on November 23rd.

The researchers were focused on the fact that as skin cells age the speed of regeneration slows, making the skin thinner and more susceptible to wrinkles, as well as conditions such as dryness, itching and other problems.

During the research the two teams developed a signalling network model for ageing skin cells, that included simulations to analyse the model, ultimately discovering a core f that reverses ageing in old cells and converts them into younger cells. 

The scientists believe this finding is meaningful because it points to the ability to reverse the biological phenomenon of ageing skin cells, something that was previously considered to be irreversible.

“The joint research enabled us to build an ageing signal network model and an artificial model for aged skin, with which we saw the potential to reverse the ageing process in the skin,” Park Won-seok, Director of Research & Innovation Center at Amorepacific R&D Center said, 

“Amorepacific will continue to build on our studies on dermatology and bio sector to slow down or improve the progress of ageing that was previously thought impossible. We will continue to put in our utmost efforts to safeguard the health of our customers worldwide.” 

Amorepacific says it is now developing cosmetics that reduce wrinkles by extracting a core ingredient in Camellia japonica seed extracts to control ageing in human skin. 

Want to find out more about the latest ingredients? Check out this article on the efficacy of microalgae oil