by: Ashland

who has something new to tell? we do.

Ashland’s line of gentle deo actives is growing. The latest product, sensidin pure skin multifunctional provides powerful and fast efficacy against odor-causing bacteria at very low use concentrations while respecting the individual microbiome.

the thing with body odor

Sweating is a natural process in the human body. The evaporation of sweat is an important mechanism for temperature control and essential for survival. Sweat itself is odorless, and body odor arises only when sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. These gram-positive bacteria form substances from the sweat content which have an unpleasant odor.

Of course, body odor is not harmful to health, but it can be very uncomfortable and sometimes can even cause embarrassment, especially in today’s fast-moving world, in which the demand for hygiene plays an increasingly important role. Deodorant users can feel insecure with an ineffective deodorant. As it might be a very big emotional burden for one or the other, a reliable high-effective solution is needed.

the contemporary solution

With sensidin pure skin multifunctional Ashland offers the desired solution to encounter antimicrobial challenges on the skin – consisting of Octenidine HCl, an active ingredient with outstanding antimicrobial properties and the well-accepted natural solvent and humectant, 1,3-Propanediol.

“The combination of active ingredients represents a contemporary deo solution in a category of goods that continues to grow,” said Karin Stoffels, head of product development microbial protection, Ashland. sensidin pure skin multifunctional takes deodorant protection to a new level.  Its very strong and fast-acting efficacy has been proven within a germ count reduction test. sensidin pure skin multifunctional has been tested in comparison to other deo actives such as Triclosan and Triethyl Citrate in a clear deodorant pump spray. The results show the remarkable fast efficacy of only 0.03% sensidin pure skin multifunctional within the first minute against odor-causing bacteria as well as the yeast Malassezia furfur within 10 minutes.

Therefore, sensidin pure skin multifunctional acts even before body odor develops since it inhibits the growth and multiplication of odor-causing bacteria on the skin very quickly.

In order to determine the odor-inhibiting effect and to evaluate the efficacy of sensidin pure skin multifunctional in underarm deodorants under practical conditions, a sniff test was conducted. In this regard, the efficacy of sensidin pure skin multifunctional was also compared to triclosan as a benchmark.

The evaluation was carried out by an indirect olfactory assessment of pads in the volunteers’ armpits. Both products lead to a significant odor reduction after 48 hours compared to the initial values. Although sensidin pure skin multifunctional has been used in much lower use levels of actives there haven’t been significant differences between 0.15% sensidin pure skin multifunctional and 0.3% Triclosan. The sniff test proves a quantitatively similar odor-inhibiting effect of both test products. Therefore, sensidin pure skin multifunctional does not only act very strong and fast against odor-causing bacteria but also provides long-lasting and reliable deodorant protection for 48 hours as demonstrated within the sniff test.

Furthermore, the topic of microbiome gets increasingly important to consumers. Not only, because the microbiome is believed to play an important role in skin health, but especially since the understanding today is that the skin microbiome, immune system, and skin barrier are closely linked to each other and should be treated with care.

Personal care products can support healthy skin and the microorganisms living on our skin. Ashland sees it as its responsibility to protect the skin microbiome. Therefore, Ashland develops and tests its products with the utmost care.

In this regard, a third-party study investigated the influence of sensidin pure skin multifunctional in a deodorant on the healthy microbiome in the axilla under practical conditions. The objective of this study was to assess the sustainability of the microbiome after the application of a deodorant roll-on containing 0.15% sensidin pure. Here, the taxonomic composition of the samples was determined before the application (baseline) and after 48 hours for both test areas. The graphs show the results of the taxonomic rank genus.

The study result showed that no differences were found at baseline between both areas, which means that the microbiome was comparable before application – even after 48 hours. Thus, as proven sensidin pure skin multifunctional has no impact on the healthy skin microbiome. In addition, the test subjects have stated that they perceive the tested product as being gentle to the skin while leaving a pleasant skin feeling and not burning on the skin as well.

Want to stay in the know when it comes to cosmetic ingredients? Delve into our bi-weekly round-up of the latest ingredients news and what that might mean for the industry.

Givaudan acquires AI player Myrissi

Givaudan says it is taking its fragrance development to the next step with the acquisition of artificial intelligence players Myrissi. Founded in 2014, Myrissi has developed a technology that is capable of translating a fragrance into colour patterns images, a technology that is both relevant to consumers and also helps to predict the end consumer’s emotional response. 

This link between colours, emotions and fragrances has been modelled on research based on over 25,000 consumer tests, allowing the team at Myrissi to develop a system that echoes consumers’ marketing briefs. In recent years, one of the most crucial elements of engaging consumers in fragrance has been to connect with the consumer on an emotional level, which in turn enhances interest and even loyalty to a specific fragrance. According to fragrance developers at Givaudan, the emotional response is so important that consumers can reject specific fragrances if sensory messages are not perfectly consistent. However, when the message is correct, this can result in the signature of the fragrance and the brand identity being amplified, helping the consumer 

“The acquisition of Myrissi is aligned with our long term Fragrance & Beauty strategy; their expertise in AI will support us in proposing to our customers new visual and verbal storytelling approaches to consumers,” said Maurizio Volpi, President Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty.

“This is particularly important in a time when e-commerce is booming. Our mission will be to support our customers to evoke the smell of their products in the most inspiring way, helping consumers to choose the product that best fits their preferences.”

Study confirms skin hydration effect of moringa seed oil

A new study by researchers in Thailand has shown that moringa oleifera seed oil does have skin hydration enhancing properties, combined with having a significant antioxidant impact. Researchers at the Srinakharinwirot University, Chiang Mai University and Phetchaburi Rajabhat University, conducted a study using a testing cream on 32 individuals and found that skin hydration levels increased by up to 85% over a four week period.

The tests required the individuals to apply a 0.2g dosing of moringa seed oil in a cream to the arm twice a day, alongside a control cream. Tests were then carried out once a week to determine skin hydration, erythema (redness), melanin levels and elasticity.

The research found that skin hydration increased at the end of each week that analysis was carried out, with skin hydration improving by 16% in the first week, 76% by the second week, and 77% in the third week, before reaching the 85% hydration increase in the fourth week. 

The skin redness caused by erythema was also significantly reduced, with the inflammation and irritation associated with the condition clearly easing and demonstrating anti-oxidant effects. On the other hand, the tests showed no signs of having any skin lightening or brightening properties, a claim that is particularly popular for skin products marketed in the Asia Pacific region. 

The skin irritation test showed that there was no significant or detectable impact on the skin, while the anti-inflammatory properties seen in the reduction of skin redness suggests that it has a soothing effect. Researchers also reported that the participants in the test said that they preferred the colour, smoothness and skin hydration effect of the moringa seed oil to the control cream, while absorption, odour and spreadability of the two were very comparable.

Colonial Chemical launches natural-based surfactant

ColaMate LA-40 is a natural-based surfactant from Colonial Chemical that is derived from lauryl alcohol. 

According to the development team, it is more than 45% vegetable-derived thanks to the fact that the lauryl alcohol that forms the basis of the ingredient is of vegetable origin. ColaMate LA-40 is said to be sulfate-free, ethoxylate-free, and 1,4 dioxane-free, claims that make it ideal for a range of natural-based and sulfate-free formulations. 

The development team has worked towards creating an ingredient that is very dense and provides good foaming properties when combined with a range of personal care cleansers, while also being mild on the eye and good for sensitive skin types. Of specific interest to formulators, unlike some sulfosuccinates, it is said to provide good viscosity response when formulated with other anionics and is also suitable for clear formulations. 

Complying with North American, EU, Australia and China regulatory bodies, it is said to be long-lasting, have a talc-like after-feel, has a light colour with no odour and is compatible with a range of surfactants. It is suitable for a range of formulations, including shampoos, bubble baths, body washes and gels, face washes and hand soaps. 

Want more ingredients insights? Find out about the latest ingredient assessment app.

Over the next five year period to 2026 the market for personal care ingredients is set to increase in value by 5.4% CAGR, suggesting that a longer-term recovery is on the cards following a difficult 2020.

The forecast comes from market intelligence provider Global Market Insights, and its experts believe that it will be hair care that will be one of the biggest driving forces behind the increase. 

Demand for hair care ingredients will be driven by the growth of hair salon services together with the growth of hair grooming habits among men.

The haircare market is also likely to see a spike in new product development for products that address very specific hair care issues, with products for greying hair, dandruff and hair loss likely to be popular. 

On top of this there will also be a rise in the number of hair care formulations being developed using natural ingredients, underlined by the brand Mamaearth launching a new line of natural hair care products that includes an onion shampoo for hair regrowth. 

On a regional basis, the market research group predicts that Asia Pacific will account for a strong proportion of the global market growth with rapid urbanisation contributing to increased demand that is likely to push the region’s personal care market beyond the $4 billion mark by 2024.

With respect to specific ingredients, the research suggests surfactants will continue to be in increasing demand as emulsifiers, foaming agents, cleansing and anti-microbial properties, while multifunctional solutions will also continue to thrive to meet the need for products that meet busy work schedules. 

Frost & Sullivan recognises Mibelle Biochemistry for active ingredients

Frost & Sullivan has recognised the achievement of Switzerland-based Mibelle Biochemistry as an exemplary provider of active ingredient solutions. 

The acknowledgement comes as part of Frost & Sullivan’s comprehensive assessment of the personal care active ingredients market, and results in Mibelle Biochemistry being awarded with 2020 Global Company of the Year Award. 

According to the judging panel, the award was given on the back of Mibelle’s introduction of several breakthrough sustainability active ingredients on to the global market, underscored by comprehensive clinical trialling. 

Mibelle has carved an international name for itself in the area of senolytics, which are used to delay skin ageing in cosmetic applications.

“Demonstrating its expertise in recognizing the dynamic needs of the cosmetics industry, Mibelle launched the Alpine Rose Active line of products to fight skin ageing,” said Prateeksha Kaul Research Analyst. 

“This line of products uses a natural senolytic agent extracted from the Alpine rose leaves in the Swiss Alps to eliminate senescent cells, which are the cells responsible for ageing, without affecting the neighbouring cells.” 

Ultra Chemical buys ingredient supplier

In the US UltraChemical has acquired the full business operations of Baltimore-based K3 Corporation, a leading supplier of active ingredients for skincare.

Back in 2005 the two companies forged a partnership in active ingredients, with UltraChemical serving as a distributor for K3’s line of products through the United States. 

The acquisition of the business is the evolution of the partnership and was completed on December 1st of this year. 

According to the companies, the acquisition will be mutually beneficial as the shift in ownership will serve to create closer ties to the suppliers. 

Likewise, the acquisition will also give a boost to the K3’s innovation pipeline, enabling it to focus on launching a raft of new personal care ingredients throughout 2021. 

“The K3 product line has always complemented the Ultra catalogue of scientifically proven, high-quality ingredients” stated Jim Lynch, VP of worldwide sales at Ultra Chemical. 

“We see the value in the technologies and wanted to bring it in house, providing us the opportunity to increase sales reach and grow the portfolio.”

Jarchem launches two new ingredients

Jarchem has launched two new ingredient solutions that is says will help expand the capabilities and development potential for formulators. 

The first solution is Jarplex M20, an ingredient that is said to hold many functions and capabilities. It is a transparent water-soluble liquid derived from 100% vegetable-based raw materials that is said to boost skin conditioning performance. 

It is said to be gentle and mild, while offering high moisturisation properties, together with a generous lather that boosts cleansing efficacy that is suitable for a range of products, including clear shampoo, hair oils, creams micellar water, makeup removing cleansers and face and body wash. 

The other new launch is Sucranov Micro, a solution that improves hair conditioning properties when combined with cationic polymers by creating a gel phase during application. 

This functionality means that it creates a stronger gel phase that results in better conditioning because use levels are increased. 

The Jarchem team says it can be added to shampoos to improve wet-combing and detangling, while also serving to increase formulation stability for naturally-based shampoos. 

The ingredient would be suited to a range of formulations, including clear silicone-free shampoo, body and face wash, liquid soaps, wipes and creams.

Learn more about the latest ingredients news from asbestos in talc to food allergy warnings for infant skincare