The Research & Development (R&D) and Marketing departments of a cosmetic brand are both groups of highly professional and skilled individuals essential to success… yet their approach is from such different perspectives, issues are bound to arise over time and discussions can sometimes get heated.

How can you get the best performance out of each of your teams particularly when a challenge hits your multi-faceted project? Read on to find out…

The way marketing sees it…

Your marketing team is essential to:

• identify cosmetic product opportunities within the competitive marketplace;
• conduct market research to drive product creation and strategy from the concept stage;
• create effective marketing campaigns to be seen and heard by your target market;
• determine the right price and place for products to be available;
• monitor and grow product sales.

Your marketing department want a great product with outstanding ingredients and performance they can truly boast about so they can get consumers to love your brand as much as they do.

Surely a team of R&D specialists can mix some ingredients to give them what they’ve asked for?

The way R&D sees it…

Your R&D team is essential to:

• create safe, stable and efficacious cosmetic formulations that meet the needs of a brief;
• run regulatory checks and provide compliance information;
• conduct safety, stability and performance tesity and performance testing to prove all theoretical work;
• create an amazing product formula that can be scaled up easily.

Your R&D department have created a fantastic product that has a great shelf life and complies with the rules. Surely a team of marketing specialists can create advertising copy and make it leap off the shelves?

R&D and Marketing red flags

Exactly why do these two groups within the same company conflict? It could be:

• issues with the product development brief: marketing would have researched their target consumers well before finalising the brief, so its little wonder they aren’t keen on making changes to this very important document just because a Chemist says something is not possible, or Regulatory says a rule can’t be broken. However, those are the exact types of situations that commonly arise.

• clarify responsibilities: cosmetic product development is a multi-stage project where crossovers can (and often do) occur between various departments. For example, a formula could be totally inappropriate for certain types of packaging or dispensers – so this needs to be finalised early. Which department is in charge of finding the right packaging? An ingredient list can’t be finalised until a cosmetic formula is signed off, and even then, it’s not a certainty until minimum accepted stability tests have been completed. Who is wearing the risk if changes need to be made for quality reasons that impact printing, just to meet a tight schedule?

• micro-managing or over control: R&D need to respect the consumer knowledge the marketing department has, while marketing needs to respect the ingredient and formulation knowledge the R&D team brings to the table. Issues can occur when R&D tries to tell marketing how to write product copy or what consumers want. They can also occur when marketing tries to tell R&D how to adjust their formulas. Let each department know their strengths and weaknesses, don’t try to tell them how to do their job.

• workflow: certain stages of cosmetic product development can rely heavily on a department or even an individual. If too much pressure is applied, steps can be missed and human error can occur. It may be necessary, especially when multiple projects are under way, to check if there is sufficient experience and team members to prevent this from happening.

• understanding time and the process: conflicts will often arise where someone doesn’t understand the other person’s role well enough, or the required time to complete certain stages of a cosmetic development project. Does the R&D team understand the commercial reasons why a certain performance, claim or even feel is essential? Does the marketing team understand what stability testing is, and why it can’t be rushed? People can’t know what they don’t know; and if these two teams don’t know enough about the challenges that each faces when trying to create and sell a successful cosmetic product, there are sure to be issues down the line.

Ways to help R&D and marketing work better… together!

Try these approaches to smooth things over and get the best possible outcomes for your brand and cosmetic developments:

• consider the product development brief as a tool for communication. Yes, a fair bit of work has gone into its creation, however changes are often necessary. Work together to achieve the desired outcomes knowing these are bound by scientific principles and regulatory restrictions. At the same time, if the brief changes too much, it may no longer have its competitive edge. What ideas can everyone discuss to jump the hurdles rather than let them be roadblocks?

• explain issues using the right language. Explaining the issues with the current brief, or dilemmas with altering the brief, can help people from both sides of the company understand how to find a suitable solution. While scientific or regulatory discussions enable one to speak very specifically, they can make it sound like you’re trying to talk above another person’s intellect. On the other hand, creative explanations can sound like waffle to a pragmatic person. Both R&D and marketing personnel will need to find ways to highlight the issues they face with any changes needed using language the other team will properly understand.

• be open to brainstorming. Marketing are typically creative types; R&D are typically more rational. Brainstorming needs creativity before it can walk a rational path, so brainstorming can often be best started by the marketing team alone. With a few options on the board, the R&D team can then explore which idea has the best scientific (or regulatory) potential, and the teams can meet again.

• be flexible without breaking. You’ve discovered some changes need to be made to the product, the formula or the brief. Which changes can be made without losing sight of the original objective? Are there different ways of approaching a formula, outside of the box your are normally formulating within? Both teams may need to ask themselves: what is the closest acceptable alternative? Discussions could be fruitful once each department has used this approach.

• walk the walk a little. Invite the other department to spend time in yours. This can be tricky – let’s face it, everyone is so busy these days – but even just a small amount of time spent walking in each other’s ‘shoes’ could lead to massive gains in existing and future projects. I’m not suggesting a marketing person should suddenly start creating a cosmetic formula, but if they could watch a complex regulatory search get conducted, or see a failed stability test, they may suddenly have a greater appreciation for what is involved. Similarly, a chemist who gets to see market survey results and competitor analysis will better understand exactly why the brief has certain requests. When there is better understanding, teams are more congruent and resolutions more forthcoming.

You’re all on the one team

A market leading cosmetic product needs both a fantastic formula and effective marketing campaign. Achieving both is impossible when your R&D and marketing departments are more like opponents than teammates. Use the tips in this article to identify where issues have occurred in the past and implement strategies for solutions to overcome them in the future.

The results will be amazing products that truly get noticed, with the sales results and happy consumers you’ve been hoping for.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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Launching a new beauty brand is exhilarating yet challenging and whether you are a startup or a longstanding corporation the foundational process of brand development is important. This journey is no simple feat, yet if executed correctly, the results can bring success over the long run.

Drawing from experience in marketing product development and brand strategy, especially within the startup realm, it is clear that there’s a common tendency to rush towards the endpoint of success without properly laying down the groundwork from the start.

This article explores the process of aligning messaging and branding with products, using case studies of two diverse brands. These brands, though rooted in trending lifestyle, ingredients, and performance, faced challenges in communicating their intentions effectively to the consumer.

By incorporating key points into your messaging and branding strategies, you can effectively align products with the brand’s identity and connect with consumers at a more engaging level.

Case #1: Crafting a Compelling Brand Story for Mass Market Bath Products

Overview:

Creating a successful mass-market self-care collection involves more than just assembling products with a beautiful design and componentry. The collection necessitates a compelling backstory and concept to distinguish itself in a competitive market. Crafting a strong narrative with engaging stories for products, effectively helps brands connect with consumers.

Problem:

Despite offering a variety of bath product collections with appealing designs, Bath At Work (fictitious name) wanted to stand out on mass market retail shelves. Additionally, the brand sought to align with current wellness lifestyle trends. The setback was that the brand lacked a compelling narrative to captivate consumers interested in this lifestyle.

Solution:

To address these challenges, a comprehensive narrative was crafted. The bath collection stories highlighted the products and their usage through creating a personalized regimen.

• As a result, Bath at Work spoke specifically to the experience of product use and time of day to use each product including directions for specialized regimens.
• Ingredients were combined as blends throughout the collections to offer a “theme” supportive of wellbeing.
• The names of the collections were updated and categorized to speak more personally to the user and designed to communicate an enhancement of overall well-being with themes like “Good Night – Sweet Dreams” and “Wake-Up – It’s a New Day”.
• Additionally, Bath at Work prioritized sustainability by minimizing packaging waste and utilizing eco-friendly materials.

Case #1 learnings

Incorporating product benefits and personalization into a compelling narrative is crucial for creating a unique brand identity that resonates with consumers, especially in mass market. Brands can effectively differentiate themselves by highlighting experiential product usage and integrating themes that promote a specific lifestyle,

Case #2: Streamlining Brand Messaging for Clarity

Overview:

In the highly competitive market of today, many brands struggle to effectively convey their unique brand message. Despite having captivating backstories and diverse product lines designed to appeal to a wide range of consumers, brands often find it challenging to stand out amidst the overwhelming amount of messaging that they hope to communicate to their audience.

Problem:

“Elevate Well“ (fictitious name) faced challenges in effectively communicating the unique benefits of its brand and products to various consumer segments. Despite highlighting holistic ingredients, superior product performance, engaging experiential product use, clinical claims, and the founder’s expertise, the brand struggled to convey a clear message about its true offerings and its distinct position in the market.

Solution:

1. A thorough competitive research analysis was conducted to determine the brand’s positioning and product pricing relative to similar brands in the market.

• This research yielded valuable insights, identifying multiple areas for improving communication and whitespace opportunities where the brand could differentiate itself and connect more deeply with its target audience.
• The research also highlighted that the hero product had room for a price increase communicating the high-end value of the product and its positioning, placing it in-line with the competition.

2. Development of a brand deck, served as a comprehensive guide for maintaining consistent messaging across all social media platforms.

• This ensured that every communication channel, including social media and traditional marketing channels, conveyed a unified message about the brand.
• The target markets were clearly defined and supported by products and claims for those targets.

3. Focus on lifestyle and ingredient components created compelling and clearly defined product benefits per SKU.

• This messaging not only highlighted the brand’s wellbeing mission statement but also emphasized the essence and performance of the product experience in use.
• The ingredients and clinical claims were teased out and highlighted for consumers to visually evaluate product performance before purchase.

4. A strategic marketing calendar was crafted for “Elevate Well” to ensure consistent communication with users.

• By emphasizing clear and consistent communication going forward, the brand strengthened its connections with the audience. This approach also provided the marketing team with a clear snapshot of value-added opportunities for their customers throughout the year.

5. A revamp of the website and new visuals better highlighted the brand’s story and product offerings, improving user experience and driving engagement.

• Low-selling products were strategically removed from the site and the brand to streamline the product lineup and focus on core offerings, maximizing consumer appeal.
• A new brand icon was designed highlighting all of the benefits of the brand in one view and was utilized on the site offering a quick view image that communicates the brand positioning and product performance.

Learnings Case #2

Highlighting the challenges brands encounter in clearly communicating their unique value propositions amidst a crowded marketplace may require time and effort, but it is worthwhile.

Through meticulous research and strategic refinement, a brand with multiple messages can successfully streamline its communications, thereby enhancing credibility, trust, and targeted consumer appeal.

Both cases underscore the importance of prioritizing clarity, consistency, and differentiation in brand messaging and product development. By aligning these elements with consumer preferences and market trends, beauty brands can position themselves for long-term success and forge deeper connections with their target audience.

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Niche is understood as a part of the market in which individuals have common needs and characteristics, which are not satisfied by the existing general offer.

This year we are seeing how global brands are finding inspiration in niche brands. Luxury and mass, retail or direct sales brands are finding more and more opportunities in market niches that are not currently served.

The first thing we must understand is the meaning of the niche market, since many times we tend to make mistakes or get confused when we use this term.

A segment is a part of the market with individuals who share characteristics and needs that are currently served by said market. A niche is a more specific part of that segment in which the needs are not fully covered. Market niches have been underestimated by many companies considering them “small” or too specialized to be profitable thinking that they do not justify mass production.

At a general level, we can say that a market niche is a group that is not served, that is, we are dealing with a niche when the main suppliers of a sector are not meeting the specific needs of a population and it does not necessarily indicate that the opportunity business is small. In other words, niche market does not always mean small potential market.

An example may be the HIV vaccine, which has not yet been developed. It is a niche because there are still no commercial solutions to this need, although the market value it implies can be enormous.

Discovering a niche is a challenge and an opportunity since it will allow solving unsatisfied needs of a specific audience. One of the characteristics of the niche market is that it is not saturated, has no or very few competitors. Next, we will see some interesting trends in beauty and cosmetics.

Jewelry for beards

A good example of a niche is the Kratomilano brand from Milan, which specializes in jewelry for beards, inspired by the whole hipster trend. The goal of this brand is to help men with beards to look their best. They have included a design innovation that corresponds to a triangular spiral that allows the jewel to be attached to the beard. Each jewel is made by hand and therefore no two are alike.

Quiet luxury

 This is the new trend that is here to stay. It represents a move away from the flashy and ostentatious styles of the past towards a more understated, refined and minimalist aesthetic.

The cosmetic industry has a great opportunity for innovation in this concept. This group of consumers wants to buy less, but better. In this regard, the Fashion Quarterly New Zealand portal indicates that “Silent luxury brands are often associated with the use of sustainable materials, ethical manufacturing processes and a focus on longevity and durability, as opposed to fast fashion trends”.

Stealth wealth

This trend takes a more discreet approach to luxury. For example, the Fashion Quarterly New Zealand portal also indicates that “in fashion, the goal is to dress in a way that does not immediately reveal the wearer’s wealth or status. It’s all about subtle, nuanced details and high-quality materials that are only noticeable to those with a discerning eye.” “Hidden wealth is about leaving the logos at home.”

Vampy lips

Gothic glamour is becoming a trend this year and that is why some consumers are being inspired by Morticia Addams. Purple and cold lips are the trend. Vampy is the new black.

Sensory friendly

The cosmetic needs of people with sensory and perception limitations also represent an objective for the cosmetics industry. The World Health Organization indicates that 3.6% of the world population suffers from post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), 75 million people have autism, 55 million live with dementia and 366 million individuals live with attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder.

Our industry, supported by science, has the opportunity to discover new biochemical, olfactory, formulation and sensory pathways that meet the needs of these people.

Inclusive beauty

Inclusion is heaven for niche brands. Beauty is a universal right and inclusion represents a whole universe with hundreds of opportunities. We are seeing, for example, how global companies are inviting women in their 70s and 80s to be ambassadors for their brands.

We also find very interesting innovations in packaging materials that allow the interaction of people with visual disabilities and product information. People with physical limitations are also finding very interesting cosmetic solutions that adapt to their abilities and allow them to enjoy novel cosmetic experiences.

Melanin-rich skincare

This trend is exciting, as skincare and suncare brands are basing their formulation strategies on melanin as the new beauty star. The byrdie.com portal states “Does diversity in beauty now mean looking beyond marketing to common skin concerns, but also categorizing nuances like melanin?”

The melanin-friendly claim is presented as a great opportunity for innovation and includes a whole new concept in formulation, biochemistry and product design strategies.

MVC – Minimum Viable Community

This is a very interesting new concept. Niche consumers are creating communities on the web, where products and services are created by and for members. Projections indicate that companies will compete with headless brands. This is a new definition in which cosmetic industries have many opportunities for development and learning. These brands are community driven and incentivized by decentralized organizations.

Headless brands challenge the idea that a brand is centralized and our assumptions about what a brand is and how it works. Headless brands refer to community-driven brand dynamics, without a centralized management area. There are even online platforms focused on this concept, such as the Niche social network that allows people to form communities around shared interests, topics, products, or services.

Niche beauty represents a market opportunity to be developed and discovered. The new perception of beauty includes the desires of all human beings. Without exception.

Our industry is fascinating because every day we discover how cosmetics can satisfy hidden insights that we never imagined before.

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2023 is the year of India at in-cosmetics Asia and this is part of a series to shine a light on the dynamic Indian personal care market…

Koel Colours refer to their brand as “Global Champion in Dyes and Pigments”. In this quickfire interview, we sat down with Rishabh Desai, Director – Global Sales & Marketing at Koel Colours to gather his views about the colour cosmetic market and its current trends…

Post pandemic, how have colour cosmetics trends changed?

It is fair to say that trends have changed dramatically! Matt used to be in vogue but in India in particular, glossy is the preferred look. With millennials and the older Gen Z, the bling bling style is deemed more attractive whilst under 25 consumers prefer matt and the younger generation prefer a more metallic finish on their face. All in all, it’s about mixing the 2 looks together.

How does Koel Colours tap into these trends?

We offer ingredients that cater for both trends, from pink, but lighter than magenta to brown -we call them Gorgeous Pink and Elegant Brown. In India brown is the trend par excellence at the moment – it looks more natural as it matches local skin tones form light to dark with the benefit of looking more natural on photographs, too. Brown is used a lot in the lip area with subtle shades but Red still appeals more to Generation Z!

So does this mean a rosy future for colour cosmetics?

Yes, the colour cosmetic category is back and it is getting very strong. After a couple of years where the sector ground to a halt, consumers are now appreciating colour cosmetics again because of its value. And we have also noted even better quality as multinational brands in particular have stepped up their efforts.

What is Koel’s vision in the sector?

Heavy metals are clearly a concern for the end consumer. Diversification is one of our priorities and sustainability is top of mind so we are working hard on the R&D front to focus on natural sources. As an example, we use hectorite clay minerals to create certain effects with lipstick and mattifying agents. All our natural colours are fully compliant with global regulations and they have also been certified by major regulatory bodies such as FDA, FSSAI.

Koel Colours will be exhibiting at in-cosmetics Asia on 7-9 November

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Tell me what sport you do and I will tell you what cosmetics you should use… Unfortunately, we are facing a new climatic reality and in the post-pandemic world, consumers are doing many sports activities, both indoors and outdoors, which represents challenges and opportunities for the cosmetics industry.

The World Health Organization reported that in July we went from global warming to a global boil. The Copernicus Climate Change Service and the World Meteorological Organization confirmed that July reported the highest global average temperature since records began. This is a sad reality that all people and all countries are experiencing. At the time I am writing this column, there are reports of record temperatures in South America (winter) and extreme temperatures in the United States, Africa, Europe, and Asia. This reality influences many of the cosmetic and sports trends that we are going to see below:

Blue-light proofing products: As many people use electronic devices before and after exercising, cosmetics that help protect skin from blue light emitted by device screens are gaining popularity. These products may contain ingredients that help counteract the negative effects of blue light exposure.

Dermo-tech: Technology could play a big role, with products using sensors to measure skin moisture, body temperature, and other factors that could affect the effectiveness of cosmetics during physical activity.

Inclusive beauty products: Inclusion and diversity are important trends in the cosmetics industry. Products that cater to a wide range of skin tones, body types, and personal needs continue to gain relevance, especially in the sporting arena, which encompasses a variety of body shapes and sizes.

High-performance makeup: Makeup products specifically designed to resist sweat and water during physical activity are gaining popularity. These products are often long-lasting and waterproof, allowing people to keep looking fresh while exercising.

No-rinse personal care products: Comfort is essential for people on the go. No-rinse personal care products such as facial cleansers and refreshing wipes are essential to cleanse and refresh skin before and after exercise.

Products for boxing: As mentioned in a publication in the Spanish newspaper El Mundo: “In this type of discipline, the hands become the main protagonists, therefore, if you do not pay the attention they deserve, they can dry out and calluses or even blisters appear. Although the use of gloves is recommended when you are practicing, an ultra-moisturizing hand cream cannot be missing, especially after training. Another of the essentials in this category are oils to massage different areas and products to release muscle tension”.

Packaging innovation: Cosmetic packaging could become more convenient and practical for people who play sports or exercise. For example, waterproof packaging, compact packaging, and precise dosing systems could be areas of focus.

Running: Foot care should be the main concern for people who practice this discipline. There are pedicure products for athletes that use more durable and resistant nail polish. Also, creams decongest and relieve skin legs, so muscle recovery is faster. Also, special sunscreens for athletes.

Active skincare: Cosmetics that include ingredients that help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun, pollution, and oxidative stress during physical activity. We can see this claim in products like sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidant products, and other skin-benefiting ingredients.

Swimming: Chlorine and other components of swimming pool water are responsible for making skin and hair dry and look dull. Products that cancel the effect of chlorine on the skin and fiber are also beginning to be interesting.

Specific hair care products: Hair care during and after exercise could be a trend. Shampoos, conditioners, and treatments designed to protect hair from the effects of sweat and constant sun exposure could gain attention.

Pre- and post-workout products: Cosmetics designed to prepare the skin before exercise (such as sunscreen products) and for post-exercise recovery (such as soothing and moisturizing products) are on trend.

Energizing fragrances: We are seeing an interesting opportunity in this category. Thanks to aromatherapy, we are seeing new applications in products that help provide enthusiasm so that people feel more willing to initiate physical activity.

Temporary tattoos: The trend of temporary tattoos is growing in the sports field. Temporary sports tattoos are a form of personal expression for athletes and sports enthusiasts, allowing them to show their passion for their favorite activity.

Brand union: Collaborations between sportswear brands and beauty companies are giving rise to products designed specifically for sports lovers. For example, sportswear brands partner with cosmetic brands to create products that complement their portfolio.

Personalized makeup: Personalization in the world of beauty is a growing trend. Consumers are looking for makeup products tailored to their individual needs and preferences, which could include products designed specifically for their skin type, tone, and physical activity.

Transfer-proof makeup: This type of makeup will not transfer to your clothes or hair, even if you sweat. It is an excellent option for women who want to avoid the hassle of touching up their makeup during training.

Anti-Pollution products: With growing concerns about environmental pollution and global warming, cosmetics designed to protect the skin from exposure to environmental pollutants remain on trend. These products help combat the negative effects of pollution during and after exercise by keeping the skin protected and healthy. For example, products with this claim are beginning to be interesting for people who practice hiking, mountaineering, skiing, etc.

Sports & Beauty apps: Mobile applications and wearable technology could be integrated with the sports cosmetics industry. For example, apps that track fitness can recommend skincare and makeup products based on a person’s individual needs.

Soothing: We are seeing this claim also in sports cosmetics, since there are people, whose skin turns red when training, something that is completely normal and that is generated because “sports stimulates blood circulation, increasing oxygenation and nutrition in the tissue and raising the temperature”.

Sportmetics = Sport + Cosmetics. Skin in exercise is the new black. Sports practices represent a great opportunity for innovation and the industry is developing very interesting biochemical pathways for skin in a constant state of sports! The opportunity is to develop cosmetic products and concepts that help prepare for sports, outdoor physical activity, aerobic sports, anaerobic sports, in the aquatic environment, post-training, foot care, and therapeutic and sports massage, among others.

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Gen Zs are about 25% of the US population, and they’re growing up fast. (They are currently between the ages of 9 and 24.) This digitally native cohort has unique shopping habits after going through Covid in their formative years and thanks to their comfort with the digital world. From TikTok to the creator economy to payments trends, they are influencers in many ways, in many places.

Their influence on the beauty industry is significant for many reasons: 43% of US adult Gen Zs start their product searches on TikTok (JungleScout). This behaviour further establishes the power of social media (and certainly TikTok) where young beauty consumers are concerned.

This generation buys into influencer-endorsed products because of their focus on authenticity. They want to believe that the celebrity or influencer is creating a product because they believe in it (though we know this is often not the case). According to Cosmetify, the top 10 celebrity beauty brands in the US have combined retail revenue of about US$1.2 billion. Small but powerful and definitely influential.

Gen Z has been instrumental in promoting diversity and inclusivity in the beauty industry. They have championed a broader range of skin tones, body types and gender expressions. This push for inclusivity has led to the celebration of unique features and increased representation in all forms of imagery.

This demographic has a heightened awareness of environmental and social issues, pushing for sustainable and ethical beauty products. They prioritize transparency in ingredient selection and manufacturing processes.  They want eco-friendly packaging and the elimination of animal testing (They certainly aren’t alone in that category). This has prompted many companies to adopt more sustainable practices and develop products that align with these values.

This group is vocal about a number of causes that may not appear to be directly related to the beauty industry, but may influence us in discreet ways. Gen Z wants to know what companies stand for, how they vote, where they contribute money, how they treat their employees, how they deal with mental health issues, gun control, abortion rights.

There has been a strong interest among Gen Z consumers in “clean and natural” beauty products. They seek out brands that use minimal or no synthetic ingredients, prioritize “natural” and organic ingredients, and are free from potentially harmful substances. While this trend has influenced the development of “clean” beauty lines and increased transparency about product formulations, it’s also full of myths and half-truths.  Greenwashing is rampant.

• “Clean and natural” ingredients and products are not defined or regulated.
• The “free from” claim is not allowed in the EU.
• There are many concerns about carbon footprint, as well as over farming where natural, plant based ingredients are concerned.
• Plant based ingredients may be more sensitizing, less consistent, less sustainable, less efficacious and more expensive than a synthesized, lab created version.
• “Natural” preservative systems may not be robust enough to ensure product safety and shelf life, as we have recently witnessed with a couple of “natural, green” brands.

Gen Z has embraced a culture of do-it-yourself (DIY) beauty and self-expression. They are passionate about experimenting with makeup, hair colors and unique styles to express their individuality. This has led to the popularity of tutorials/how-tos, beauty hacks, dupes and creative makeup looks shared endlessly through social media platforms.

Appreciation for “retro” and a simpler life appears to be a feature of this generation’s behaviour: embracing analog cameras, old fashioned notebooks and pens, long playing records (LPs), in person experience and actually getting off the grid (at least occasionally). This phenomenon may be behind the quest for simplicity, thrift shopping and simplifying beauty products in a back-to-basics way.  Just look at what Gen Z has done with CeraVe!

This generation has shown a preference for authenticity and realism in beauty advertising and campaigns. They value brands that embrace imperfections and promote body positivity. Have you noticed the number of brands that offer freckle pens? This has led to a shift away from heavily retouched images and a greater emphasis on real people with diverse body types, skin conditions and ages.

Overall, Gen Z’s influence on the beauty business can be seen in the push for inclusivity, the demand for sustainable and ethical products, the popularity of DIY and self-expression, the shift towards “clean and natural“ beauty and the emphasis on authenticity and realism.

Many of them are very young, with opinions and preferences changing quickly and often. They are ethnically diverse and the largest generation in American history: about 69 million strong. Studying their behaviour is challenging. But don’t overlook them or take them for granted.  Many of them believe they can change the world, and they just might!

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I recently read an article in the Spanish newspaper El País entitled: “The life and death of a trend”, which inspired me to write this column.

As many of you know, I quite enjoy writing about trends. We can find inspiration from many sources and sectors, such as food, fashion, cosmetics, technology, science, wine, medicine, research, entertainment… It is exciting when we start to discover trends and specially to project them in the cosmetics industry.

How do big companies and indie and niche brands create consistently successful products? How do they develop products, applications and services that no one thought would work? The answer lies in knowing how to read market trends to generate opportunities around them.

How can we define a trend? A trend is a social inclination towards a topic, behavior or product. A trend identifies upcoming social, cultural, environmental, aesthetic and other changes that influence society’s behaviour.

Yves Saint Laurent said many years ago that: “Trends disappear, style is eternal”… The reality is that trends are born, grow, reproduce and die. To describe this process, it is necessary to understand the genesis of trends. In general, we can describe it as follows:

Megatrends → Macrotrends → Microtrends → Mode

In the following, we will look at the definitions of each of these stages:

Pyramid of Trends

Megatrends: These are far-reaching, long-term changes that have a significant impact on multiple aspects of society, the economy and technology. These trends typically last a decade or more and have a global influence. Megatrends are based on fundamental changes in areas such as demographics, technology, environment, economics and politics. Examples of megatrends include rapid urbanization, population ageing, digitalization, sustainability and globalization.

Macro-trends: These are long-term changes that affect an industry, a specific sector or a geographic region. Unlike megatrends, macrotrends are more specific and focus on narrower areas. These trends may emerge as a result of megatrends, but their impact is observed on a smaller scale. For example, a macro-trend in the fashion industry could be the rise in demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. These can last for several years.

Microtrends: Micro-trends are short-term, smaller-scale changes occurring within a specific industry, market or community. These trends usually last for a shorter period of time and may be driven by changes in consumer tastes, preferences or behaviors. An example of a micro-trend might be the sudden popularity of a new mobile application. They are short-term or more limited in duration.

Mode: We have seen that a trend is created when a novelty begins to be adopted by a considerable group of consumers, which generates in the rest of the population the feeling that this trend must be adopted, then the trend becomes in mode when the large part of the population standardizes it.

The article in El País states that: “A trend dies when it ceases to be novel and becomes ubiquitous, when it ceases to be used by a minority of trendsetters and is adopted by the vast majority”. A trend is a fact of recent appearance, known to all and has a good reputation for a short period of time.

We can see the genesis of trends in one example. The megatrend is globalization. The macro-trend is the Asian influence on Western culture. The micro trend is the popularization of Asian food in American countries. The mode is sushi.

In cosmetics, we can say that, after a technological innovation or a novelty in consumer behavior, a trend can be born. Trend is the prelude to fashion. The trend is consolidated when a segment of the population adopts it massively, generating in consumers the feeling that this trend must be adopted.

Evolution and death of a trend

In summary, megatrends are the broadest and most enduring changes that affect the global level, macrotrends focus on more specific areas, and microtrends are short-term, smaller-scale changes in an industry or community. Each of these categories is used to understand and analyze different levels of change and trends in different contexts.

How can we predict trends? This can be challenging, as it involves anticipating changes in consumer tastes, preferences and behaviors. Here are some strategies we can follow to predict them:

• In-depth research: Conduct in-depth research on the area or industry of interest. Examine demographic data, market research, industry reports, analysis of past trends, scientific and technological developments and any other relevant sources. Understanding the current context and driving forces will help identify possible future directions.
• Observing cultural and social changes: Observing social media conversations, emerging cultural movements, changes in values and consumer demands. These factors can provide clues to the directions in which trends are moving.
• Megatrend analysis: Examine megatrends that are in play, such as technology, sustainability, urbanization, demographics, among others. These broad trends can provide clues to areas where more specific trends might emerge.
• Observing innovations and disruptors: Pay attention to innovations and disruptive companies that are emerging in the market. Technological advances, new ways of doing business and creative solutions can indicate emerging trends.
• Tracking opinion leaders and industry experts: Keeping track of what opinion leaders and experts in the area of interest are saying is important because they may have unique information and perspectives on future trends.
• Data and pattern analysis: Use data analysis tools to examine past patterns and trends. This can be useful to identify early signals and recurring patterns that may indicate future trends.
• Creative thinking and strategic vision: With all the collected information, we can connect the dots and formulate possible future scenarios. It is important to keep in mind that trend forecasting involves a certain degree of uncertainty, as the future is always unknown.

The world of trends is exciting and we can find inspiration in phrases from famous designers. Christian Dior said: “By being natural and sincere, one can create revolutions without having sought them out. John Galliano said: “Style is wearing an evening dress to McDonald’s and heels to football. It’s personality, confidence and seduction”…

The cosmetics industry is one of the fastest adopters, trendsetters and innovators. The challenge is for us to identify trends in time to surprise consumers. The signs are there, speaking to us. Just as some trends are born and die, the strongest trends can go in cycles and reinvent themselves after a number of generations. As actors in the beauty industry, we must know how to anticipate and put a differential touch to our creations.

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BROWSE SHOWS

Transforming a family run business into the digital world isn’t easy. Our superhero Marcella Vanessa did just that and is breaking bounds as she does it.

You see a brand that has it all; good quality ingredients that are locally sourced, wide range of products, interesting backstory, keeps up with the changing times and is affordable.

You see that and you think, ‘well, they can’t be that good’ or ‘they must be a huge corporation’ and scroll past to the next thing.

That’s because it’s hard to have it all. Some say it’s impossible.

Well, Marcella Vanessa has done it.

Taking her family business to the future, Azarine has gone from a brick-and-mortar shop to a purely online business, and Marcella has brought on some big names with her. Having worked in the beauty industry since she was 19, Marcella (or Cella, as she goes by) has the understanding on what the beauty industry wants and needs.

Azarine started in 2002 (yes, that means it’s 20 this year!) as a family business to make herbal Indonesian Spa recipes more accessible. They have always been adamant on using meticulously selected natural active ingredients, so not much has changed there. In 2016 they created a research lab to add a more specialised and scientific insight into their products, and with that lab came a whole new Azarine. Along with her brother Brian, Cella completely rebranded the company from traditional and offline, to modern and online. If there’s one case study that proves digital marketing is more powerful that we think, this would be it. In completely upending their marketing strategy and making it solely digital, the company has soared. Even during the pandemic, it saw steady growth with no signs of slowing.

How did they do this?

The key is awareness. If people don’t know who you are, do you even exist? Cella kept pushing for Azarine to become more prominent in the public’s eye by doing collaborations with local and international brands. Since then, some BIG names have joined forces. Celebrity and actor Lee Minho, model and influencer Prilly Latuconsina, and influencer and actor Syifa Hadju have all become brand ambassadors.

Also part of the A-team is BT21! Even adorable little creatures from another planet need good skincare (and you know they all have different skin concerns).

The real superhero of brand ambassadors though, is MARVEL. Whichever MARVEL superhero you support (hello, Thor) there’s an Azarine superhero serum to go with it. Now that’s how you market a product!

Azarine isn’t the only brand they’re working on. They also have a beauty brand called Allura and will be launching another one soon. If it’s anything like Azarine you can expect big things from it.

Cella has been named one of the ‘10 Empowered Women 2022’ by JawaPos and ‘Top 30 Inspiring Women To Look Out For In 2022’ by The NYC Journal, and she want to ‘inspire & empower other young women to be independent & pursue their dreams’.

If you want to know more on how she transformed her family business, she will be sharing her story in a marketing trends seminar at in-cosmetics Asia on 1-3 November in Bangkok.

Register today to get free entry to this and catch her on the Tuesday 1 Nov at 2pm and you too could be leading your business into the future.

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Being the second-largest cosmetics market in the world, China is leaving everyone open-mouthed with almost US$ 60-billion-worth retail sales in cosmetics in 2021, according to Statista. This is up 13% from the previous year. Amidst COVID-19.

How do brands contribute to those figures? They pay the price. Even with its high potential and numerous uncovered opportunities, China remains the most challenging market for both experienced brands and newcomers.

What do we normally know before we start in China?

First, popular platforms where you put your marketing dollars are banned here. But, thank God, the internet is helping us to know how to deal with that. Second, China is renowned for being a cradle of an ancient and distinctive culture. But we know they like red, yellow and dragons! Third, anyone in cosmetics business is aware of the local regulations. (Not of the cost of this dubious honour, though).

However, that is only the tip of the iceberg. At a deeper dive, fundamental differences arise all around, be it a deal with a distributor or conquering your target consumer’s loyalty. “Ah! Distributors don’t buy my stuff!” “Eh! They also don’t invest.!?” “Oh! TMALL is not an easy platform to get sales!” “Ouch! Influencers don’t deliver on a promise…”

You are not prepared!

The process of starting in China should begin months before you enter. I compare it to building a house: it is not the frames that you begin with but site preparations and foundations.

A lot of cosmetic brands plunge into the abyss directly: they open an online store, maybe some local social media account, and, of course, spice it up with some influencers. Or, let’s say, they just contact the distributors.

Firstly, on a scale from preparing a site to decorating the house, where do you think this all sits? The frame stage. At least. Secondly, everyone is doing that. Everyone is contacting Chinese distributors. Everyone is doing ads on TMALL (if accepted!). Everyone pays to KOLs (key opinion leaders), and Chinese people know it! Discounts, festivals, live-streaming, beautiful content, WeChat… Everyone.

How to make a brand stand out?

Site preparation. It’s something you do quietly: a trademark in China, a Chinese name, a brand book, etc. Try working with one distributor in China without this, and next time, trust me, you will rush in fury to do it. I hope it’s not too late?

Research is also part of that. Remember, China is a big non-homogeneous market where skin problems, hair problems, make up preferences, pain points, consumer behaviours vary. Chinese consumers are picky, demanding and spoilt. They are price-sensitive, brand value-sensitive, experience-sensitive, language-sensitive and so on and so forth. Next, how about your competitors? Perfect experts can give you useful but very superficial ideas because they are, unfortunately, not data banks and computers to paint the full picture for your brand.

This is the thinking part that constitutes your marketing approach and it has to be done. Sadly, most of the brands skip it, and then they pay a lot to rectify their mistakes.

Once the site is ready, laying the foundations is essential. This is what no-one around really notices unless it’s an expert taking a closer look. However, it’s where the decision to buy derives from.

If site preparation is quite universal, the foundation might look different depending on business specifics, product and goals. Someone needs a website for China, someone needs WeChat to replace emailing whose usage in China is incredibly low, someone might find it a waste of money at this stage, etc.

What remains constant in the cosmetic industry in China is a need for Trust. Do you know what would motivate a consumer to switch from one brand to yours? Do you know how in a country of fakes and scams a distributor knows he should replace what has already proven to sell with a new product? You can place your product anywhere, but why would it be trusted and preferred? Because you paid for KOLs? I don’t think so.

All of that can be skipped, of course.

It is merely a question of revenues, growth, image, brand control. If long-term prospects matter, prepare well – make sure your brand stands firmly on the ground. Everything is possible in China, but nothing is easy.

Inna Kochanzhi is a Shanghai-based, Chinese-speaking expert on building successful marketing campaigns in the Chinese cosmetic market.

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Luxury, as well as fashion, is a concept that evolves over time to adapt to preferences and the new social and economic conditions of society. The opulence, lavishness, magnificence and pomposity of cosmetic luxury that we have seen in recent years have evolved into a new concept in these times of pandemic, inflation and war that is now based on minimalism, ecological awareness, humanism, wellness and health.

The luxury category was hit hard by the pandemic, but it is precisely these new concepts that represent a great market and innovation opportunity. Statistics indicate that luxury is one of the most resilient industries and is also one of the fastest recovering after a crisis.

The portal redskins101.com indicates that the global luxury cosmetics market was worth U$ 45.1 billion in 2020 and is expected to grow to U$ 58.7 in 2030, registering a CAGR of 3% in this period. The numbers indicate that this market has started to recover and that is why we see very interesting trends:

Hunger for luxury

Although it is true that the pandemic has promoted contactless and storeless concepts in which consumers seek to avoid as much contact as possible, luxury brands are creating new unforgettable experiences in retail to recover the influx of customers. The goal, as mentioned by Mintel in a recent report, is that brands want to convey a sense of exclusivity and new sensory experiences that are difficult to replicate online or through catalogues.

In Asia for example, many luxury brands in different categories are creating cafes so that consumers can better interact. The goal is to perceive brands in new ways. Socialization is the new black.

Upcycled luxe

We already know that upcycling is the big trend in cosmetics for this year and it is a current that luxury concepts are knowing how to take advantage of. We now see a trend in linking upcycling technologies with benefits of well-being, health, comfort, happiness and luxury. Now the consumers do not want to own, they want to experience.

Authenticity

This has been a major driver for luxury brands in the last two years. For example, there are companies that provide manual and artisan restoration services for luxury products, as is the case with leather products. Brands are adjusting their efforts to communicate with the more environmentally conscious shopper. The market is now more than ever more sensitive to issues related to sustainability and ethics. The new luxury marketing is now more purpose-driven, more authentic and relevant.

Inclusivity

Definitely, one of the most exciting trends where the luxury category can innovate. Beauty is a universal right and inclusion in cosmetics is a whole world of possibilities. There are many segments where we can see very interesting examples. This year saw the launch of a brand specializing in transgender period care products, which addresses the lack of inclusion in this category.

In February we saw how Victoria’s Secret launched an inclusive campaign with its first model with Down Syndrome. On the other hand, Vogue published an interesting article in April indicating that ageless creams are the future of inclusive cosmetics. Pinterest recently announced the launch of a new inclusive feature that allows you to find the best hairstyles based on hair type. Now users of the platform will be able to refine their searches and choose between protective, frizzy, curly, wavy, straight and bald/shaved styles. Inclusion is definitely a driver of innovation for the luxury category.

Redefining masstige

The Journal of Business Research published the article “Redefining mass luxury consumption in the post-COVID era” by author Zi Wang in April, in which it indicates that the concept of “new luxury” has challenged the conventional marketing of luxury goods such as prestigious, which has led to a further expansion of the meaning of mass luxury. One of the conclusions that the article mentions is that luxury is now focused on the psychological well-being of customers.

Online luxury

The luxe.digital portal indicates that websites and mobile applications are the new dominant sales channels for most luxury brands. The companies have done a great job of improving the online user experience and building trust by assuring customers that returns and exchanges can go smoothly. Projections indicate that 30% of all luxury sales will be online by 2025.

Millennials % Gen Z

The portal also indicates that these segments drive the growth of luxury at an accelerated rate. Together, these younger generations of affluent consumers will represent 70% of the luxury market by 2025 and will contribute 130% of the growth in the luxury market. However, they are still neglected by many luxury brands and represent a huge opportunity for the cosmetics industry. On the other hand, 42.5% of global luxury sales will be made by Chinese consumers by 2025.

NFT

Non-fungible tokens were one of the most popular terms in 2021. The Collins dictionary chose this term as the word of the year. Morgan Stanley analysts expect the luxury metaverse and NFT market to reach $56 trillion by 2030.

Oscar de la Renta said: “Luxury for me is not having expensive things, but a way of life where you appreciate everything you have” and this definition is aligned with our current consumers, since they values experiences and customs to a greater degree, creating their own concept of luxury according to the changing environment.

On the other hand, Coco Chanel used to say: “Luxury is a necessity when the need ends” and definitely after a time of restrictions, isolation and needs, the consumer reinvents himself to create luxury concepts that evolve into different experiences, creating new spaces that differentiate it. To conclude Carolina Herrera tells us “Luxury will always exist, no matter what happens in this world”, corroborating as well as in each stage of time it is a concept that remains valid and reinvents itself according to the context.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?