It seems like only yesterday we were planning and preparing for in-cosmetics Global 2020, it was set to be a spectacular show, celebrating 20 years since the start of in-cosmetics. Little did we know, we would be hit with something that would change the fate of all events for the next two years!

Fast forward to present times, we are celebrating the return of this brilliant show after an extended absence, in-cosmetics Global 2022 was a pure delight. I won’t be the only one who was feeling a little anxious and apprehensive before the show. It’s quite daunting after spending 2 years away from social interactions to then be integrated with thousands of new people; and then the thought of ‘what if people don’t show up’ definitely crossed my mind.

As scientists and formulators, I’m sure we can all relate to this point – product development is not as straightforward as we’d like it to be. There are so many things to consider like creating an effective product that is kind to the environment whilst still being commercially viable (this can seem impossible at times). Our industry as a whole is trying its hardest to take some steps toward saving the planet whilst also creating some brilliant, innovative ingredients which aim to support the sustainability movement.

For those who don’t know me, I am Rouah; a pharmaceutical scientist turned cosmetic scientist. I create, organise and lead the R&D Tours for in-cosmetics Global and Asia. I research the ingredients and decide what I think people will find interesting and useful for their upcoming projects. Our tour topics this year were Suncare & Skin Protection sponsored by Symrise, Naturals sponsored by Mibelle and Good for the Mind & Body Sponsored by Codif. We saw a really interesting range of ingredients from some brilliant exhibitors.

Although the R&D Tour topics differed there were some definite trends weaving through which tied them together. The first one I’ll mention is Green Chemistry. The Royal Society of Chemistry defines green chemistry as the “design of chemical products and processes to reduce or eliminate the use and generation of hazardous substances.” Simply put, it efficiently uses renewable raw materials thus eliminating waste and avoiding the use of toxic and hazardous reagents and solvents in the manufacture and application of chemical products and ingredients. Since our industry is often targeted and blamed for waste and damage to the environment, this is a good step in the right direction and we hope to see more and more ingredients being produced through the utilisation of green chemistry.

This leads me on to the next trend; microalgae. There were many companies singing the praises of these biotechnologically derived marine ingredients developed for use in a variety of personal care products. The qualities that enable these microalgae to perform so well and fulfil a number of functions can be credited to the environment in which they are found. These organisms produce valuable metabolites as a result of being constantly exposed to stressful conditions such as high or low temperature, high salinity, osmotic pressure, photo-oxidation, and ultraviolet radiation.

As a result of these stressors, microalgae derivatives can be used to achieve certain results in skincare products; in particular products which target skin healing and repair, reducing inflammation and protection from UV damage. I would also say that it is a pro-ageing approach to skincare. Since many people are turning to more natural cosmetic products, microalgae derived cosmetic products are very desirable with the added benefit of being environmentally friendly.

Our final trend is the microbiome; the human microbiome refers to the plethora of microbes found in and on the body. These microbes form ecological communities called microbiota, the human microbiota includes hundreds of species of bacteria, fungi, mites and viruses. Every single person has a different skin microbiota and even on one person’s body, there are different environments depending on the area we are looking at. There is still so much to learn on this topic but If we try to understand how microbes interact with our skin, we can enhance our product development by being  able to cater more specifically to these ecological communities.

Green chemistry is on the rise and we will hopefully be seeing an increase in the number of ingredients being developed through this process, including marine derived ingredients and ingredients targeted to support the microbiome. So although we have discussed these concepts and referred to them as trends, it seems they are here to stay.

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Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

Our Skin microbiome session invites you to join our speakers for an interactive workshop that will delve into the science and technology surrounding skin microbiome research and development. Hear about the market as it stands, skin microbiome regulations and get your questions answered by experts in real-time.

Don’t miss out, book your place on the Skin microbiome workshop: novel discoveries on healthy skin, testing methods and regulations aspects at 06 October 2020, 14:30 – 19:00 in Workshop Room 1.The post Skin microbiome: novel discoveries on healthy skin, testing methods and regulations aspects first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/regions/global/skin-microbiome-novel-discoveries-on-healthy-skin-testing-methods-and-regulations-aspects/feed/ 0 8239 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/preservation-challenges-skin-sensitivities-workshop/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/preservation-challenges-skin-sensitivities-workshop/#respond Wed, 27 May 2020 12:07:57 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=8237 Due to regulatory changes and negative press, the preservation of cosmetic products has changed dramatically in recent years. Our in-cosmetic Global workshop is here to help you navigate the challenges with expert insight and Q&A. Get the solutions you need at our Preservation challenges and skin sensitivities workshop, co-organised with Household and Personal Care Today […]

Due to regulatory changes and negative press, the preservation of cosmetic products has changed dramatically in recent years. Our in-cosmetic Global workshop is here to help you navigate the challenges with expert insight and Q&A.

Get the solutions you need at our Preservation challenges and skin sensitivities workshop, co-organised with Household and Personal Care Today and Sponsored by CLARIANT.  Covering different technical takes in terms of formulation, dermatology and toxicology, the workshop offers a comprehensive overview of a challenging industry subject.

Come along for an introduction with Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda PhD FRSC, before we deep dive into the new approaches and regulations, a look at how to avoid skin sensitisation, and more.  

Don’t cut any ingredients out without attending this vital Preservatives session. Learn more by booking your place on the Preservation challenges & Skin sensitivities workshop on 05 October 2020, 14:30 – 19:00 in Workshop Room 2.The post Preservation challenges & skin sensitivities workshop first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/preservation-challenges-skin-sensitivities-workshop/feed/ 0 8237 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/multimedia/webinars/empower-your-bodys-natural-shield-why-we-love-ceramides/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/multimedia/webinars/empower-your-bodys-natural-shield-why-we-love-ceramides/#respond Fri, 22 May 2020 09:30:42 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=7714 Speaker Say hello to Christin Ihrig, Marketing Manager Active Ingredients at Evonik. Evonik combines scientific competencies with a passion for effective cleaning and care for skin and hair.

The post Empower your body’s natural shield – Why we love ceramides first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

Speaker

Say hello to Christin Ihrig, Marketing Manager Active Ingredients at Evonik. Evonik combines scientific competencies with a passion for effective cleaning and care for skin and hair.

The post Empower your body’s natural shield – Why we love ceramides first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/multimedia/webinars/empower-your-bodys-natural-shield-why-we-love-ceramides/feed/ 0 7714

Speaker

Dr Carol Treasure is the Founder and CEO of XCellR8, an animal-free testing laboratory. XCellR8 conduct regulatory in vitro safety and efficacy tests for global cosmetic ingredient manufacturers as well as high street retailers. Carol founded XCellR8 in 2008 with a mission to accelerate the world’s transition to 100% animal-free testing and the company’s work has been recognised at a regulatory level by the OECD and by top funding bodies such as Innovate UK and Horizon 2020.

Carol holds a first degree in Physiology and Pharmacology from the University of Sheffield, and a PhD from the FRAME Alternatives Laboratory at University of Nottingham, based on skin cell biology and reconstructed skin models for cosmetics testing. She has devoted her career to using innovative science to replace animal testing over the past 25 years, working closely with leading cosmetic companies and ingredient suppliers.

Dr Barbara Olioso, MRSC Managing Director at The Green Chemist Consultancy suggests a new way of approaching microbial preservation as a way to protect your formulations.

With a big focus on skin sensitivity and preservation in her upcoming talk at in-cosmetics Global, this fascinating webinar serves a teaser for the main event taking place in October 2020.

Speaker

Dr Barbara Olioso is a doctor of chemistry with a Master in Food Science and Technology and a diploma in Cosmetic Science. UK based, she has been specialising in natural and organic cosmetics development since 1999, developing skincare and haircare products.

In 2005 she was behind the launch of the first certified organic eau de toilette with Primavera Aromatherapy, now Espa International.

Her services go from strategic technical support and concept development, to help increase the sustainability profile in bigger businesses, as well as innovative and bespoke formulation and training services.

As part of the in-cosmetics Global Virtual Conference, Nava Dayan, Owner of Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, Skin Care R&D Consulting presents an overview of how you can utilise skin microbiome in skincare product development.

Given the rise in direct skin microbiome claims in the cosmetics industry, this webinar goes into the exciting state of market landscape and recent scientific research in this field.

Speaker

Nava Dayan Ph.D. Pharm has about 30 years of experience in skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books. She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the Controlled Release Society for excellence.

Dr. Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries; dermal and transdermal. Product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology; planning, execution and data interpretation into claims, formulations, delivery for improved efficacy and attenuated toxicity.

Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity and biota. One of Dr. Dayan’s book is Innate Immune System of Skin and Oral Mucosa: Properties and Impact in Pharmaceutics, Cosmetics, and Personal Care Products published by Wiley and Sons.

According to Denise Lee, regional client consultant at Euromonitor International, there are several factors leading to the growth of dermocosmetic trends in Asia.

The advent of more sophisticated routines and skin regimens, for instance, have given rise to consumers becoming better educated about using products on a daily basis in order to achieve results that prevent skin damage.

Furthermore, consumers are increasingly aware of the ingredients in their products which this is helping to drive awareness and demand for dermocosmetics.

“Dermocosmetics will continue to grow as consumers increasingly believe that beauty starts with good and healthy skin, rather than relying on colour cosmetics to hide bad skin. It’s this awareness of and a growing pre-occupation with skin sensitivity that will drive forward key growth opportunities for dermocosmetics in the future,” ​said Lee.

To read more, visit Cosmetics Design Asia: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/Article/2019/09/25/Derma-skin-care-opportunities-abound-as-consumer-demand-for-more-preventive-skin-care

Denise Lee, Regional Client Consultant at Euromonitor International, will lead a session at in-cosmetic Asia on ‘Skincare trends in APAC: the rising demand for dermocosmetics’ on Tuesday 5 November at 11:00 in the Marketing Trends Theatre. For more information on the in-cosmetics Asia 2019 education programme, visit: https://asia.in-cosmetics.com/

Fatty alcohols are among the most commonly used ingredients in personal care and home care formulations. They are used in a variety of products such as shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, antiperspirant and lipstick.

The basics and background on fatty alcohols

Fatty alcohols are found in many plants and animals, mostly as esters. They are characterized by a primary hydroxyl group attached to a long chain alkyl group ranging from four to six carbons to as many as 40 carbons¹. Natural ingredients containing significant levels of esterified fatty alcohols include beeswax ~50 percent monoester, carnauba wax ~85 percent ester, candellila wax 30 percent ester/~10 percent free alcohol and jojoba oil ~97 percent ester.

Fatty alcohols occur as primary or secondary alcohols containing alkyl chains with unsaturated bonds or methyl branching groups. The physical form of fatty alcohols is highly dependent on the chain length, amount of unsaturation and methyl branching. For example, stearyl alcohol is a saturated alcohol containing 18 carbons and has a melting point of 58 C. Oleyl alcohol contains 18 carbons with one double bond has a melting point of -7.5 C. Isostearyl alcohol contains 18 carbons with one methyl branch has a melting point of <-60 C.

Saturated fatty alcohols are very stable to oxidizing/reducing agents, to low/high pH and are heat stable. They also easily react with fatty acids to form esters, ethoxylated to form emulsifiers and sulfated to form anionic surfactants commonly used in shampoo and shower gel formulations.

Naturally derived fatty alcohols are produced by transesterifying vegetable or animal derived triglycerides using methanol followed by hydrogenating the resulting esters to the alcohol. Approximately 50 percent of all fatty alcohols are produced by this process.

The most commonly used vegetable oils include coconut (for C12-14 alcohols) and palm kernel oil (for C16-18 alcohols). Other oils like corn, canola, rapeseed, and soybean can be used depending on the type of fatty alcohol desired¹.

Fatty alcohols can also prepared from petroleum feedstocks using the Ziegler process in which ethylene is polymerized using triethylaluminium followed by air oxidation. This process produces even-numbered alcohols³.

Guerbet alcohols are branched alcohols produced by the condensation of primary alcohols at temperatures of 180 – 300 C in the presence of alkaline condensing agents. They are normally liquid alcohols and frequently function as emollients or solvents^2,3.

Personal care applications for fatty alcohols include:

• Thickening oil in water emulsions via the formation of lamellar crystalline gel networks (cetyl, stearyl, behenyl alcohols)
• Thickening anhydrous formulations (stearyl, behenyl alcohols, C20-40 alcohols)
• Emollients used to modify skin feel (isostearyl, oleyl alcohols, octyldodecanol)
• Coupling agents/solvents in anhydrous colored cosmetic formulations (isostearyl, oleyl alcohols, octyldodecanol)
• Raw materials to produce surfactants and emulsifiers (lauryl, myrisyl, palmityl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl alcohols)
• Raw materials to produce cosmetic emollient esters (ethyl hexyl, octyl, decyl, lauryl, myristyl, oleyl, isostearyl, stearyl, behenyl alcohols)

Learn more

Learn more about fatty alcohols in the Prospector Knowledge Center. To receive additional articles bi-monthly, sign up for free access to the Prospector material search engine and newsletter.

References

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatty_alcohol
2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guerbet_reaction
3. https://vdocuments.mx/all-about-fatty-alcohols-condea-5631070dc4095.html
4. https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com/fatty-alcohols-market.html

By Priscilla Taylor

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) offers a skin-specific definition of exfoliation: Exfoliation is the process of removing the topmost layer of dead skin cells¹. According to the AAD, this process offers multiple benefits:

• Exfoliation can leave the skin looking brighter
• It can improve the effectiveness of topical skin treatments, which are able to penetrate deeper once the topmost layer of skin is removed
• Long term use can increase collagen production resulting in younger looking skin

Various methods can accomplish exfoliation,  which can be categorized either as mechanical or chemical.

Mechanical exfoliation

Mechanical means can employ the use of tools such as brushes, pumice stones or electronic devices, or products that are formulated with abrasives. When considering an abrasive for development of an exfoliating product, the formulator has a wide array of options from which to choose.

Typically the type of abrasive selected will depend on the body part being targeted. Coarser, more aggressive materials are generally used in products meant for the body, while options that deliver a more gentle effect are reserved for facial applications.

Structure and particle size should also be a consideration in the selection process. Sugar and salts, such as magnesium sulfate and sodium chloride, are used extensively as exfoliants, as are the grounded pits and shells of various fruits and nuts.

Powders derived from walnut, almond and apricot are commercially available in different particle sizes.

An added benefit of using these exfoliants is that they can fully support an ‘all natural’ marketing claim. Hydrated Silica is yet another natural abrasive that is often used in exfoliating products.

Alternatives to polyethylene-based exfoliants have become more commonplace within the industry, since a ban was placed on the manufacture and use of plastic micro-beads. These polyethylene-free products fall within different chemical classes and are often marketed as eco-friendly, biodegradable and natural.

Chemical exfoliation

Exfoliation by chemical means is often achieved with the use of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), glycolic and lactic acids being the most commonly used in cosmetic products. These AHAs are potent and effective exfoliants that are frequently used to substantiate anti-aging claims.

Given their potency, guidelines have been issued for their appropriate use in OTC products and professional settings. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review conducted a comprehensive review, and published the results in the report ‘Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics’^2. Further guidance is available from the FDA’s document, ‘Guidance for Industry: Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids’^3.

Exfoliants can be incorporated into multiple product categories. Soap bars, scrubs, creams, cleansers and serums are but a few of the product forms. Whether by chemical or mechanical means, when used properly, an exfoliating product can have a beneficial effect on the overall appearance of skin.

Learn more about skin care topics in the Prospector Knowledge Center. To receive additional articles bi-monthly, sign up for free access to the Prospector material search engine and newsletter.

References:

1. https://www.aad.org/media/news-releases/evaluate-before-you-exfoliate
2. https://cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ahas.pdf
3. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/guidanceregulation/guidancedocuments/ucm090816.htm