The beauty industry is undergoing a transformative shift, driven by growing consumer demand for transparency and sustainability. As regulatory frameworks tighten, particularly in the European Union with the introduction of the Digital Product Passport (DPP) under the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) Directive, the integration of advanced technologies such as Near Field Communication (NFC) is becoming crucial. NFC technology can enhance the beauty industry through digital passports, highlighting the purpose, benefits, and potential applications for beauty products, including skincare, haircare, personal care.

What is a Digital Product Passport?

A Digital Product Passport is a comprehensive electronic document embedded with essential information about a product, which includes:

• Origin – where the product is manufactured
• Composition – ingredients used in the product, as well as materials used for packaging
• Environmental Impact – the ecological footprint throughout the product lifecycle
• Recyclability and reusability – information on maintenance, reuse, and recycling potential

The DPP aims to ensure transparency and accountability in supply chains, aligning with consumer expectations and regulatory requirements.

The role of NFC technology

NFC technology enables seamless communication between devices over short distances. By integrating NFC tags with beauty products, companies can offer consumers instant access to product information simply by tapping their smartphones against the product packaging or scanning a QR code. This integration not only simplifies the consumer experience but also enhances transparency regarding product origin, ingredients, and sustainability claims.

Benefits of Implementing NFC with Digital Passports

1. Enhanced transparency

With NFC-enabled DPP’s, consumers can easily verify product information, fostering trust and loyalty. In an industry where ingredient sourcing and environmental impact are under scrutiny, this transparency is vital for informed purchasing decisions.

2. Improved sustainability

By offering detailed information about a product’s lifecycle, companies can educate consumers on sustainable practices, such as recycling and responsible disposal. This aligns with the industry’s shift towards circular economy principles, encouraging consumers to make more eco-friendly choices.

3. Streamlined supply chain management

NFC technology can facilitate better tracking of raw materials and components, ensuring compliance with sustainability standards. Companies can manage data effectively and demonstrate their commitment to ethical sourcing, leading to stronger supplier relationships and reduced risks in the supply chain.

4. Consumer engagement

NFC tags can be used for interactive marketing campaigns, allowing consumers to access tutorials, testimonials, and additional product information. This engagement can enhance brand loyalty and drive sales, as customers feel more connected to the brands they support.

Current applications in the beauty industry

Some brands have already begun implementing NFC technology in their beauty products, transforming the way consumers interact with their purchases. For example, luxury skincare lines are using NFC tags to provide detailed ingredient lists, sourcing information, and even application guidelines. This approach not only empowers consumers with knowledge but also highlights the brand’s commitment to quality and sustainability.

One notable example is Clochee, a Polish skincare company recognized for its natural, organic, and eco-friendly cosmetics. Last year, Clochee embraced NFC technology by launching a limited collection of certified products that incorporate this feature, reflecting the growing trend of integrating digital elements into beauty and personal care.

Haircare brands are following suit, utilizing NFC technology to create a direct connection with their customers. By scanning a product, users can access personalized hair care routines tailored to their specific needs, delivering a bespoke experience that enhances customer satisfaction. This level of personalization fosters deeper brand loyalty and encourages repeat purchases, making it a win-win for both consumers and brands.

In August 2024, Dyson launched its first products that combine hair care and styling, named Dyson Chitosan. This marks a significant shift for the brand, traditionally known for its high-quality vacuum cleaners. With this new line, Dyson is entering the beauty industry, offering innovative wet styling products that reflect its commitment to technological advancement in personal care.

These high-performance products promise an unparalleled user experience, enhanced by the introduction of a new NFC technology. This allows users to access tutorials, dosage tips, ingredient information, and reordering options effortlessly.

The future potential of NFC and DPP’s

As regulations like the EU ESPR Directive come into effect, the beauty industry will need to adapt rapidly. The combination of NFC technology and DPP’s holds immense potential for transforming how consumers interact with beauty products.Companies will be better equipped to meet:

1. New regulatory compliance – ensuring their products are sustainable and transparent
2. Market differentiation – brands that adopt these technologies early can differentiate themselves in a crowded marketplace, appealing to eco-conscious consumers
3. Data-driven insights – by collecting data through NFC interactions, companies can gain valuable insights into consumer behavior and preferences, enabling more effective marketing strategies. This data can also guide product development, ensuring that brands meet the evolving demands of their customer base

The integration of NFC technology with DPP’s represents a significant advancement for the beauty industry. As sustainability and transparency become increasingly important, brands that leverage these technologies will not only comply with emerging regulations but also build stronger relationships with consumers. By providing clear, accessible information about product origins and environmental impacts, the beauty industry can embrace a more responsible and innovative future.

As this transformation unfolds, the potential for enhanced consumer engagement, streamlined supply chains, and improved sustainability practices will drive the industry toward a more transparent and accountable future. By committing to these advancements, the beauty industry can lead the way in setting new standards for ethical and sustainable practices, benefiting consumers and ultimately the planet.

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Cosmetics New Zealand recently hosted an AI Bootcamp facilitated by Frances Valentine of AcademyEX in Auckland, NZ.

This AI Bootcamp was like opening a door to a new dimension where technology meets personal care.

The attendees hailing from different corners of the personal care industry (brand owners, product designers, cosmetic chemists, manufacturing, sales and marketing), gathered with one common goal: to explore the realms of artificial intelligence and its potential to revolutionize our field.

Imagine a tool that not only complements your work but also propels it into new realms of creativity and efficiency.

That’s AI for you in the personal care industry.

It’s not just another tech buzzword; it’s a game-changer that is rapidly transforming how we approach everything from product development to customer interaction.

For starters, the art of working with AI is a skill within itself. Knowing how to communicate with this technology, to ‘prompt’ it effectively, is crucial.

We learned that the more precise and informative our prompts, the better AI can serve our needs. And yes, there’s such a thing as ‘prompt engineers’ – specialists who craft these inquiries to perfection, ensuring that the outcome is as close to our vision as possible.

During the Bootcamp, we dived into various applications of AI, from generating stunning visuals for presentations and product pitches to creating sophisticated logo designs.

The versatility of AI was on full display as we explored its use in content creation, packaging, and even mockup imagery. Our imaginations ran wild as we witnessed product designs coming to life before our eyes.

For the cosmetic chemist it extends to the very heart of product creation – the formulations.

By inputting a list of ingredients from a favourite product, AI can suggest alternative ingredients, formulations, and manufacturing methods. It’s not just a tool for replication; it’s a starting point for innovation, a springboard for creativity that propels us to invent and explore.

As a product designer, AI opens a new frontier for market research. It enables us to craft accurate product briefs and identify target markets with a precision that was once out of reach.

The potential for personalization is vast, with AI’s advanced analytics paving the way for products that truly reflect individual consumer needs and desires.

If you’re a chemist, you can leverage the synergy between science and sales more effectively.

By entering the ingredient details into an AI system, you can request a consumer-friendly narrative of your product. This will provide the marketing team with a clear and precise understanding of what they are advertising.

For research and development, using AI provides a platform for precise and targeted information, looking for ways to formulate something innovative with only a few known ingredients, or asking AI to suggest ingredients or a formulation that can do x, y, z for x amount of time in x environment or x target market. Again, providing a starting point.

There is also an AI for packaging and brand creation, bringing a visual opportunity to your client when you are presenting new product development or Brand creation.

Manufacturing and supply chain management is where AI stands as a pillar of transformation, bringing about optimized production planning, inventory control, and even predictive maintenance.

This technological leap doesn’t signal a reduction in human roles; rather, it reallocates our efforts towards more strategic, impactful work, elevating the quality of jobs and encouraging the development of new skills.

AI in the personal care and beauty industry isn’t about replacing humans; it’s about enriching our capabilities.

It’s a collaborative effort that promises to lead us toward unmatched innovation, efficiency, and personalization.

As we step forward, we’re not just adopting new technology; we’re embracing a future where AI and human creativity merge to redefine beauty and personal care.

In this image, the focus is on the consumer experience in a modern retail setting, where a customer is selecting & purchasing a skincare product. The innovative development process involving AI is subtly referenced through digital displays or interactive kiosks in the store, providing a backdrop that hints at the technology’s role in product creation. The scene emphasizes the consumer’s interaction with the product and the technology-enhanced experience.

If you don’t know where to start, start here:

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Tell me what sport you do and I will tell you what cosmetics you should use… Unfortunately, we are facing a new climatic reality and in the post-pandemic world, consumers are doing many sports activities, both indoors and outdoors, which represents challenges and opportunities for the cosmetics industry.

The World Health Organization reported that in July we went from global warming to a global boil. The Copernicus Climate Change Service and the World Meteorological Organization confirmed that July reported the highest global average temperature since records began. This is a sad reality that all people and all countries are experiencing. At the time I am writing this column, there are reports of record temperatures in South America (winter) and extreme temperatures in the United States, Africa, Europe, and Asia. This reality influences many of the cosmetic and sports trends that we are going to see below:

Blue-light proofing products: As many people use electronic devices before and after exercising, cosmetics that help protect skin from blue light emitted by device screens are gaining popularity. These products may contain ingredients that help counteract the negative effects of blue light exposure.

Dermo-tech: Technology could play a big role, with products using sensors to measure skin moisture, body temperature, and other factors that could affect the effectiveness of cosmetics during physical activity.

Inclusive beauty products: Inclusion and diversity are important trends in the cosmetics industry. Products that cater to a wide range of skin tones, body types, and personal needs continue to gain relevance, especially in the sporting arena, which encompasses a variety of body shapes and sizes.

High-performance makeup: Makeup products specifically designed to resist sweat and water during physical activity are gaining popularity. These products are often long-lasting and waterproof, allowing people to keep looking fresh while exercising.

No-rinse personal care products: Comfort is essential for people on the go. No-rinse personal care products such as facial cleansers and refreshing wipes are essential to cleanse and refresh skin before and after exercise.

Products for boxing: As mentioned in a publication in the Spanish newspaper El Mundo: “In this type of discipline, the hands become the main protagonists, therefore, if you do not pay the attention they deserve, they can dry out and calluses or even blisters appear. Although the use of gloves is recommended when you are practicing, an ultra-moisturizing hand cream cannot be missing, especially after training. Another of the essentials in this category are oils to massage different areas and products to release muscle tension”.

Packaging innovation: Cosmetic packaging could become more convenient and practical for people who play sports or exercise. For example, waterproof packaging, compact packaging, and precise dosing systems could be areas of focus.

Running: Foot care should be the main concern for people who practice this discipline. There are pedicure products for athletes that use more durable and resistant nail polish. Also, creams decongest and relieve skin legs, so muscle recovery is faster. Also, special sunscreens for athletes.

Active skincare: Cosmetics that include ingredients that help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun, pollution, and oxidative stress during physical activity. We can see this claim in products like sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidant products, and other skin-benefiting ingredients.

Swimming: Chlorine and other components of swimming pool water are responsible for making skin and hair dry and look dull. Products that cancel the effect of chlorine on the skin and fiber are also beginning to be interesting.

Specific hair care products: Hair care during and after exercise could be a trend. Shampoos, conditioners, and treatments designed to protect hair from the effects of sweat and constant sun exposure could gain attention.

Pre- and post-workout products: Cosmetics designed to prepare the skin before exercise (such as sunscreen products) and for post-exercise recovery (such as soothing and moisturizing products) are on trend.

Energizing fragrances: We are seeing an interesting opportunity in this category. Thanks to aromatherapy, we are seeing new applications in products that help provide enthusiasm so that people feel more willing to initiate physical activity.

Temporary tattoos: The trend of temporary tattoos is growing in the sports field. Temporary sports tattoos are a form of personal expression for athletes and sports enthusiasts, allowing them to show their passion for their favorite activity.

Brand union: Collaborations between sportswear brands and beauty companies are giving rise to products designed specifically for sports lovers. For example, sportswear brands partner with cosmetic brands to create products that complement their portfolio.

Personalized makeup: Personalization in the world of beauty is a growing trend. Consumers are looking for makeup products tailored to their individual needs and preferences, which could include products designed specifically for their skin type, tone, and physical activity.

Transfer-proof makeup: This type of makeup will not transfer to your clothes or hair, even if you sweat. It is an excellent option for women who want to avoid the hassle of touching up their makeup during training.

Anti-Pollution products: With growing concerns about environmental pollution and global warming, cosmetics designed to protect the skin from exposure to environmental pollutants remain on trend. These products help combat the negative effects of pollution during and after exercise by keeping the skin protected and healthy. For example, products with this claim are beginning to be interesting for people who practice hiking, mountaineering, skiing, etc.

Sports & Beauty apps: Mobile applications and wearable technology could be integrated with the sports cosmetics industry. For example, apps that track fitness can recommend skincare and makeup products based on a person’s individual needs.

Soothing: We are seeing this claim also in sports cosmetics, since there are people, whose skin turns red when training, something that is completely normal and that is generated because “sports stimulates blood circulation, increasing oxygenation and nutrition in the tissue and raising the temperature”.

Sportmetics = Sport + Cosmetics. Skin in exercise is the new black. Sports practices represent a great opportunity for innovation and the industry is developing very interesting biochemical pathways for skin in a constant state of sports! The opportunity is to develop cosmetic products and concepts that help prepare for sports, outdoor physical activity, aerobic sports, anaerobic sports, in the aquatic environment, post-training, foot care, and therapeutic and sports massage, among others.

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I recently read an article in the Spanish newspaper El País entitled: “The life and death of a trend”, which inspired me to write this column.

As many of you know, I quite enjoy writing about trends. We can find inspiration from many sources and sectors, such as food, fashion, cosmetics, technology, science, wine, medicine, research, entertainment… It is exciting when we start to discover trends and specially to project them in the cosmetics industry.

How do big companies and indie and niche brands create consistently successful products? How do they develop products, applications and services that no one thought would work? The answer lies in knowing how to read market trends to generate opportunities around them.

How can we define a trend? A trend is a social inclination towards a topic, behavior or product. A trend identifies upcoming social, cultural, environmental, aesthetic and other changes that influence society’s behaviour.

Yves Saint Laurent said many years ago that: “Trends disappear, style is eternal”… The reality is that trends are born, grow, reproduce and die. To describe this process, it is necessary to understand the genesis of trends. In general, we can describe it as follows:

Megatrends → Macrotrends → Microtrends → Mode

In the following, we will look at the definitions of each of these stages:

Pyramid of Trends

Megatrends: These are far-reaching, long-term changes that have a significant impact on multiple aspects of society, the economy and technology. These trends typically last a decade or more and have a global influence. Megatrends are based on fundamental changes in areas such as demographics, technology, environment, economics and politics. Examples of megatrends include rapid urbanization, population ageing, digitalization, sustainability and globalization.

Macro-trends: These are long-term changes that affect an industry, a specific sector or a geographic region. Unlike megatrends, macrotrends are more specific and focus on narrower areas. These trends may emerge as a result of megatrends, but their impact is observed on a smaller scale. For example, a macro-trend in the fashion industry could be the rise in demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. These can last for several years.

Microtrends: Micro-trends are short-term, smaller-scale changes occurring within a specific industry, market or community. These trends usually last for a shorter period of time and may be driven by changes in consumer tastes, preferences or behaviors. An example of a micro-trend might be the sudden popularity of a new mobile application. They are short-term or more limited in duration.

Mode: We have seen that a trend is created when a novelty begins to be adopted by a considerable group of consumers, which generates in the rest of the population the feeling that this trend must be adopted, then the trend becomes in mode when the large part of the population standardizes it.

The article in El País states that: “A trend dies when it ceases to be novel and becomes ubiquitous, when it ceases to be used by a minority of trendsetters and is adopted by the vast majority”. A trend is a fact of recent appearance, known to all and has a good reputation for a short period of time.

We can see the genesis of trends in one example. The megatrend is globalization. The macro-trend is the Asian influence on Western culture. The micro trend is the popularization of Asian food in American countries. The mode is sushi.

In cosmetics, we can say that, after a technological innovation or a novelty in consumer behavior, a trend can be born. Trend is the prelude to fashion. The trend is consolidated when a segment of the population adopts it massively, generating in consumers the feeling that this trend must be adopted.

Evolution and death of a trend

In summary, megatrends are the broadest and most enduring changes that affect the global level, macrotrends focus on more specific areas, and microtrends are short-term, smaller-scale changes in an industry or community. Each of these categories is used to understand and analyze different levels of change and trends in different contexts.

How can we predict trends? This can be challenging, as it involves anticipating changes in consumer tastes, preferences and behaviors. Here are some strategies we can follow to predict them:

• In-depth research: Conduct in-depth research on the area or industry of interest. Examine demographic data, market research, industry reports, analysis of past trends, scientific and technological developments and any other relevant sources. Understanding the current context and driving forces will help identify possible future directions.
• Observing cultural and social changes: Observing social media conversations, emerging cultural movements, changes in values and consumer demands. These factors can provide clues to the directions in which trends are moving.
• Megatrend analysis: Examine megatrends that are in play, such as technology, sustainability, urbanization, demographics, among others. These broad trends can provide clues to areas where more specific trends might emerge.
• Observing innovations and disruptors: Pay attention to innovations and disruptive companies that are emerging in the market. Technological advances, new ways of doing business and creative solutions can indicate emerging trends.
• Tracking opinion leaders and industry experts: Keeping track of what opinion leaders and experts in the area of interest are saying is important because they may have unique information and perspectives on future trends.
• Data and pattern analysis: Use data analysis tools to examine past patterns and trends. This can be useful to identify early signals and recurring patterns that may indicate future trends.
• Creative thinking and strategic vision: With all the collected information, we can connect the dots and formulate possible future scenarios. It is important to keep in mind that trend forecasting involves a certain degree of uncertainty, as the future is always unknown.

The world of trends is exciting and we can find inspiration in phrases from famous designers. Christian Dior said: “By being natural and sincere, one can create revolutions without having sought them out. John Galliano said: “Style is wearing an evening dress to McDonald’s and heels to football. It’s personality, confidence and seduction”…

The cosmetics industry is one of the fastest adopters, trendsetters and innovators. The challenge is for us to identify trends in time to surprise consumers. The signs are there, speaking to us. Just as some trends are born and die, the strongest trends can go in cycles and reinvent themselves after a number of generations. As actors in the beauty industry, we must know how to anticipate and put a differential touch to our creations.

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Discover a new way to connect within the beauty and personal care industry: in-cosmetics Group and Covalo bring you Discover, bridging the physical and digital world.

in-cosmetics, the meeting point and learning hub for the personal care development community worldwide, has joined forces with Covalo, a comprehensive search platform connecting beauty brands and suppliers.

Together, they have created Discover: an innovative online platform that will transform the way visitors and exhibitors can find their best business matches before, during and after in-person events.

Here are a few insights about what visitors are looking for, that we could already learn from Discover ahead of the event:

• There is a very high search volume for Hyaluronic Acid, which is seeing new versions available in the market mostly from biotechnological origin.

• There is a general trend towards Marine ingredients – from seaweed, to marine sponges, to upcycled fish skin! – as a response to the interest shown by consumers in novel bioactive compounds from natural sources, instead of synthetic ingredients. Marine ingredients can help offer skin vitamins and minerals, UV and anti-oxidant protection,  anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-aging benefits and more, while doubling as a potential eco-friendly solution.

• Henna is the most surprising out of the top viewed products on Discover! An ingredient as old as time, that can be used towards different performance claims. It is most popularly used as a natural dye for semi-permanent hair colouring systems, usually delivered in a shampoo base.

• Active Ingredients have 3x the amount of searches of any other ingredient functions on Discover.

• Contract Manufacturing and Testing are the most sought after services on the platform.

• Half of the top 30 most viewed products are formulations: formulators do not want to start from a blank sheet, and are looking for inspiration on how to use some of the innovative ingredients recently launched by exhibitors.

Discover is a new digital platform for in-cosmetics events, allowing visitors and exhibitors to connect and collaborate all year round.

The platform enables visitors to search for products, engage with suppliers, and get inspired by the latest product launches. Discover also helps exhibitors to promote their new ingredients and innovations, and to arrive at the event already with warm leads.

Whether it’s your first time at an in-cosmetics event or if you are a frequent visitor, you’ll probably want to drink in all the innovation, understand in which direction the industry is moving, or listen to experts on various topics.

But on the other hand, you probably have a few very concrete projects you’re working on, and you might not be quite sure how to optimise your time and connections at the upcoming event.

In comes Discover:

• Start browsing through the products of all exhibitors ahead of the event, to find that specific ingredient or formulation you are looking for;

• Filter for specific certifications, claims, and many other attributes that are key for your formulation brief;

• Conveniently request documents, quotes, samples and meetings with your short-listed exhibitors, so that you can make the most out of your event visit.

Now you’re ahead of the game: you haven’t even been to the event yet, but already you have selected highly relevant exhibitors, bookmarking them on your Discover profile.

Schedule a meeting or head straight to the right stand to establish that personal connection that can only be achieved in person.

With this approach, you’ll get to these discussions better prepared and well-informed. Just think about the time, patience, and aimless circles you just saved your future self from!

When you get to the event, you’ll have more time and energy to enjoy discovering what the future of cosmetic innovation is looking like, and stumble across connections you weren’t even planning on making – which is what wandering at a cosmetic fair is great for!

The magic of an in-person event can never be replaced: establishing personal connections, getting inspired, learning and exploring the latest innovation in the industry, the sensorial experience of seeing, touching and smelling the different ingredients!

Once combined with the digital experience of Discover, you’ll be able to make the most out of your experience.

The in-cosmetics Group is all about the beauty of collaboration and has a long-standing reputation for organising successful in-person events, bringing together suppliers of personal care ingredients, brands and cosmetics manufacturers.

With 40,000+ visitors and 1,800+ exhibitors, the in-cosmetics Group has become the leading personal care ingredient community, with recurring events all around the world.

Covalo, on the other hand, helps beauty brands and suppliers connect online through their comprehensive search platform and wide access to data. Currently more than 80,000 ingredients are listed by more than 1,000 suppliers, readily available 365 days a year.

It is the combination of both sets of expertise that has led to Discover, which is set to play a key role in the future of the personal care industry.

Discover shows how technology can drive innovation in an industry that values personal relationships, allowing the beauty and personal care industry to seamlessly connect in both realms.

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Biohacking comes from the words “biology” and “hacking” and is understood as the set of actions that an individual carries out, through different techniques and tools, which can be medical, nutritional, biological, electronic and of course cosmetic, to optimize your body, mind and life, providing a better understanding about how the body works and how we age. It is also known as DIY Biology. Many biohacking techniques have been around for centuries, such as meditation and fasting. The biohacking market is worth an estimated U$ 52 billion by 2027 with an estimated CAGR of 20.4%, indicating that it is a promising field for the cosmetic industry.

Glamour Magazine featured an interesting definition in a January article: It is the practice of changing your physiology through science, so you can control, manipulate, and create your path to better performance. “Imagine that your body is a car; you need not only the right fuel, you need the best wheels that fit perfectly, smooth brakes and an engine tuned to your precise requirements” explains Nick Powell, an expert on the subject.

Vogue published an interesting article in December 2020 about the role biohacking will play in the future of skincare. We are looking at how we can hack into our own body with the help of advanced science and technology. The market shows us advances in devices to track our sleep patterns, monitor our gut health, and even print our own skin.

Below we will look at some very interesting trends in biohacking, which are being driven by the pandemic, confinement and the need to strengthen our defences to look and feel good in these difficult times.

Infrared Light Therapy: We can see in blogs that it is good inside and out since it has been shown that infrared light has many health benefits, improves skin appearance, takes care of blood circulation, reduces stresses and renews energy.

Biohapps: Tracking and collecting data (known as data feedback) represents a large part of the success of biohacking. Many biohackers learn about their biorhythms with new apps that help track sleep, fitness, and other apps that provide insight into what the body and mind need to reach their full potential (and beyond). Recently the Oura ring was launched, this is a very accurate sleep and activity tracker, which records body temperature, blood volume pulse and intensity of movements 24/7. With this data, people can build a baseline of information about themselves to achieve optimal sleep.

Facial massages: Facial massages are becoming more and more popular in Korea and Japan. We are seeing some very interesting innovations including fascia massage, craniosacral therapy, acupressure and bone adjustment (the human head has 29 different bones, they are not static). The face is a reflection of your overall health. The Tanaka massage is anti-ageing and makes the skin look younger just after two weeks, as it fights wrinkles quickly and firms the skin. The massage stimulates the lymph nodes, thus accelerating the elimination of toxins and excess fluids from the face.

Cosmetic acupuncture: It is based on the same technique of using microneedles and aims to increase the levels of oxygenation, microcirculation and detoxification of the skin.

Fabric osmotics: There is a growing development of biotextiles and osmotic fabrics impregnated with skincare products, for example in sheets and lingerie that help treat the skin while you sleep. An interesting example is a pillowcase from Nufabrx, which has tea tree oil to help acne-prone skin.

3D printing devices: This year we see the launch of 3D printing devices that scan the skin and provide a custom blend of skincare products and microdroplet pigments for a precise application.

Microcurrent: Microcurrent treatments have been around since the 80s as a medical option for treating muscle paralysis. Biohackers are using this technique to achieve a non-invasive facelift. The low intensity electrical current trains the facial muscles to appear more lifted, taut and firmer. Magazine Elle published an interesting article in March indicating that tools like NuFace and Ziip are gaining popularity with consumers. Microcurrent facials are like a gym workout for the face. At the biochemical level, we will see new technology mechanisms for skincare that emulate the action of the microcurrent, therefore skin care microcurrent-like is one of the great innovation opportunities for the category.

Digestible wellness: Recently Bobbi Brown who is a professional makeup artist launched Evolution_18, with the slogan “Beauty begins within”, it has a range of gummies, shakes, snacks and tablets made with superfoods and antioxidants that promote strong nails, fair skin and hair sparkly.

Liquid skin: A trend that is all the rage in Asia and that consists of changing the shape of the face immediately. This is a skin-coloured silicone mask that sticks to the face to lift the cheekbones, chisel the chin, or slim the nose.

Longevity: Dave Asprey is a Silicon Valley entrepreneur who aspires to live until he is 180 years old and has invested two million dollars in biohacking. After suffering from altitude sickness or “soroche” in Tibet, the locals gave him a traditional yak milk tea drink. A few years later he launched Bulletproof Coffee, which has generated a new trend and gastronomic category. On the other hand, Valter Longo has discovered how fasting can reduce certain metabolic markers related to longevity, indicated as intermittent fasting.

Frozen beauty: The ice in skincare is in vogue… Ice therapy and cryo-facials are procedures that are in trend, they are great because they increase blood circulation, minimize pores and relieve inflammation. We are also seeing the rise of cryo-rollers, which are kept in the fridge and have the ability to keep the cold for long-lasting massages. In formulation, we see new technologies for skincare from the coldest places on earth and also new excipients and formulation textures that allow different sensory properties when the product is stored in the fridge. At the biochemical level, we also see new mechanisms of action that simulate the repairing effect of cold on the skin, which is why frozen-like is also a concept that is trending for various cosmetic categories.

Molecular wellness: There are cutting edge clinics in the world that are offering disruptive procedures. For example, BelleCell in London offers specially designed intravenous drips of anti-ageing actives, nutrients and antioxidants. In Los Angeles, Upgrade Labs offers treatments in cryotherapy capsules and ozone saunas.

I think that we as cosmetic chemists and formulators have a great challenge and that is to direct cosmetics to help meet the new needs of biohackers. This is one of the most interesting trends and we are seeing launches of technologies and new mechanisms related to biohacking. Definitely passion for innovation!

Another concept that has solidified itself as a search for the optimization of the body, mind and life is veganism. Read John Jimenez’s previous article and find out the latest trends in Vegan Beauty and why they are on the rise.

Since 1990, in-cosmetics Global has given R&D professionals an unrivalled opportunity to source the latest ingredients and network with key suppliers. When it returns to Barcelona this October, many of the biggest names in the industry – as well as a host of first-time exhibitors – will showcase their latest innovations. Helping formulators to learn more about the major trends shaping the future of cosmetics and discover the next best ingredients, we take a look at the latest innovations in everything from sustainability and skincare to colour cosmetics.

The hot topic of sustainability

Sustainability is a key priority across all industries and one that has been accelerated by COVID-19. The pandemic-induced lockdowns have changed the way we live and work and consequently, our negative impact on the environment has declined. This is demonstrated by a drop in pollution levels and greenhouse gas emissions, as well as an increase in air and water quality. This change has been tangible for many, giving consumers a newfound appreciation of nature and a strong will to do more to protect it.

Demand for green products is driving personal care brands towards new sustainable innovations such as reusable or refillable packaging solutions, carbon neutrality and waterless beauty. Upcycling is another way to reduce our waste and involves transforming unwanted products into useful materials.

According to research, cosmetics containing recycled or upcycled ingredients appeal to 69% of beauty consumers. At in-cosmetics Global, Givaudan Active Beauty will be displaying its new Omegablue – an ingredient produced from upcycled wild bilberries that improves skin hydration and barrier functionality. In addition, exhibitors can see Koster Keunen’s latest innovation, Orange Wax, which is an emollient made from peel waste produced from the juice market, as well as Quimivita’s new gentle exfoliator called Exfobreeze which is made from cork.

Another sustainable concept gaining traction is waterless beauty, which initially originated in South Korea as a way to increase product efficacy. Water is commonly used in cosmetics as a filler, however this reduces the product’s effectiveness meaning more must be consumed. Consequently, more packaging is required, which if not recycled, is either sent to landfill or discarded, potentially causing harm to wildlife. Tapping into this trend and reducing the need for packaging, attendees at in-cosmetics Global will be able to learn more about waterless beauty from exhibitors Stephenson and Kao Chemicals Europe, which have launched a solid shampoo conditioning bar and a solid waterless kit containing shampoo, hair conditioner and body moisturiser, respectively.

Other environmentally-friendly innovations that will be on display are ROELMI HPC’s brand-new BeauSens^TM line, which consists of an emollient, an emulsifier, and a surfactant. The ingredients are produced from sunflower seed oil using a Mediterranean-based circular economy model, giving formulators several sustainable solutions for use in skincare products. In addition, Scott Bader has also launched a new range of eco-friendly additives. Its innovative high performing Texique emulsifiers provide the perfect thickening solution for personal care formulations and are bio-based adhering to the company’s 2036 vision of developing sustainable products.

Naturally derived ingredients

Demand for natural ingredients is also on the rise, particularly in Europe where a growing ageing population craves natural ingredients with active anti-ageing properties, and influential millennial and Gen Z consumers favour organic products. Ingredient suppliers are matching these trends to stand out in a competitive marketplace, for example, Gattefossé’s EleVastin ingredient. The new product is of 100% natural origin – made from Murraya koenigii plants – and fights gravity-induced ageing signs such as skin sagging. Similarly, Bicosome’s new Bicoalgae ω3 product is a microalgae-based delivery system that works to resolve ageing resulted from chronic inflammation.

Other exhibitors that have mastered the production of natural ingredients include O&3, which will be displaying its new Fruit & Vegetable Oil patch. The range of unique oils are made by pressing seeds giving an aromatic product rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids to improve skin health. Kobo Products has also responded to demands for natural ingredients by launching its new ASGP, a hybrid surface treatment that renders powders hydrophobic and super-dispersible. Its properties are extremely beneficial to formulators as easy dispersal means minimal energy is required during the grinding phase.

Consumers want long-lasting performance coupled with a high level of plant-based ingredients, but natural makeup notoriously lacks the former, often smudging and transferring onto textiles. However, Covestro is helping formulators tackle the challenge of modern make-up by launching Baycusan® eco E 1001. The new bio-based product increases the contents of natural ingredients in traditional make-up formulas, whilst keeping the long-lasting properties of synthetic film formers such as water-resistance, rub-off resistance and anti-smudge.

Spotlight on skincare

For several years, innovation in skincare has been fuelled by the rise of knowledgeable consumers, known as ‘skintellectuals’. The widespread lockdowns due to the pandemic have further propelled skincare into the limelight. According to research by Swedish beauty brand Foreo, 96% of consumers would rather invest in skincare instead of make-up during the pandemic, and almost 40% have been stockpiling their favourite skincare products for fear of further lockdowns. Consumers are more concerned about dermatology than ever before as lockdown living has caused changes in our diet, sleep, vitamin D intake, and stress, all of which can wreak havoc on skin health.

There’s always a strong line-up of skincare solutions at the in-cosmetics events and this year will be no different. Attendees will be able to discover Vantage Personal Care’s new oil-free emollient Liponate Jojoba 20, a multi-functional ingredient that protects and repairs sensitive skin by restoring hydration levels in just four hours. Meanwhile, Jojoba Desert is branching out beyond its usual Jojoba Oil by launching its revolutionary JD Hydro Boost after five years of research and development. The ingredient is an active natural fibre that penetrates the epidermis to rejuvenate skin cells by promoting collagen secretion.

Other anti-ageing innovations that will feature at the event include Zinc Ascorbate from Dr. Paul Lohmann GmbH & Co. KGaA, which combines the antimicrobial properties of Zinc with Vitamin C, an ingredient renowned for slowing the ageing process. Visitors can also look forward to Silab’s Erisium and Deretil Nature’s Maslinic Acid, both of which are active ingredients derived from nature. The first comes from the outer layers of rice and helps maintain cellular proteostasis to reduce Endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress and limit the inflammation process. The latter is olive fruit extract standardised in triterpenes and has an anti-dark spot and anti-inflammatory effects to give the skin a more youthful appearance.

There will also be ingredients that enhance the texture of personal care products, for example, Silok’s new SiCare2181 P5, which is a crosslinked dimethicone polymer grafted with acrylic acid. The micro-powder is hydrophilic and possesses a strong emulsifying ability allowing it to be used in pure oil and powder formulations where it gives a silky-soft feel.

Colour cosmetics for the future

Many exhibitors are making waves in the colour cosmetics market, such as Grolman Group with its Xicare 1305 dispersant. Currently, the majority of liquid colour cosmetics are based on water-in-silicone formulations, which causes concern amongst consumers over the bio-persistency of silicones. Xicare 1305 combats this by promoting dispersion of untreated oxide pigments in water, allowing formulators to produce silicone-free aqueous colour cosmetics that can be used as tinted moisturisers, liquid blushes, and liquid foundations.

Disruptive Materials is also shaking up the world of colour cosmetics with its patented Upsalite material. The mesoporous magnesium carbonate ingredient is versatile and can be used in countless applications. For example, it can enhance primer sticks by contributing to oil uptake, generating a matte and blurry canvas that is perfect for foundation application. Lastly, Koel Colours is brightening the post-pandemic future by launching a unique series of shades called Colours of Happiness. The pigments are perfect for formulators experimenting with exotic shades and aim to positively uplift the moods of consumers.

Endless innovation

There’s something for everyone at in-cosmetics Global 2021, from the latest fragrance technology, such as Iberchem’s antimicrobial NeoGuard, to oral hygiene ingredients like preBIULIN ORAL by Gobiotics. Formulators will even be able to find active ingredients for our four-legged friends thanks to Citróleo and its pioneering CitroPet line, which is specially designed for the skin and hair of pets.

Of course, as a hotbed for innovation, many products that will feature at the event are yet to be released, for example, world-leading speciality chemical company Clariant is set to launch a vast line of cosmetic ingredients and premium formulations this Spring. The run-up to the event will see plenty more exhibitors unveil their latest innovations as the specific needs of 2021’s emerging trends reveal themselves.

Stay ahead of the curve with in-cosmetics Discover, the new ingredients platform showcasing the latest innovation across the portfolio.

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As a formulator, you’re always on the look-out for more efficient ways to make products more effective, and liposome technology may just be the key. We had a chat to Daniel Pando, CEO of Nanovex Biotechnologies, about how this technology has developed and how it can unlock an ingredient’s potential.

Nanotechnology and liposomes have been around since the 80’s but have clearly drastically improved since then. Can you tell us a bit more about how the technology has evolved?

Although the concept of liposome is similar to that of the 80s and some characteristics are maintained over time, liposomes have evolved (and will continue to do so) in terms of composition and manufacturing methods, among others. In fact, a large part of the new drugs of the future will have this technology, which will have many evolutions with respect to the one developed by Bangham in 1965.

Regarding the composition, it has gone from making liposomes with lecithin to using different types of pure phospholipids and other stabilizers and compounds in a controlled manner that provide certain benefits, such as the ability to release actives on specific targets.

Manufacturing methods have evolved from simple agitation to multi-stage processes, resulting in high encapsulation efficiencies and high stability, among others.

In addition, new characterization techniques allow us to precisely determine all the key parameters of liposomes to guarantee maximum efficiency.

How has Nanovex’s pharma knowledge influenced the calibre of nanotechnology available for cosmetics?

Liposomes have always had special importance in the field of medicine due to their properties: they are capable of releasing a drug specifically to a therapeutic target, increasing its effectiveness while reducing side effects.

Currently, there are many drugs, therapies and vaccines on the market that use this technology, including some COVID-19 vaccines.

Due to these benefits, the “drug delivery” technology based on liposomes or similar systems has been widely accepted in the scientific community as a fundamental tool for the development of new drugs, therapies and vaccines. Therefore, the most innovative and effective drug delivery systems are developed for medical applications.

Nanovex is a company that designs, develops and produces drug delivery systems for medical applications and therefore is at the forefront in the development of the most innovative and efficient liposome-based systems. All this knowledge is transferred to our INdermal cosmetic line to develop the most effective liposome-based drug delivery systems on the market for cosmetic applications.

Nanomaterials have had some bad press in the past – could you tell us about why liposomes are different and how formulators can capitalise on this and deliver benefits to their consumers?

According to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products:

‘Nanomaterial’ means an intentionally manufactured insoluble or biopersistent material exhibiting one or more external dimensions or an internal structure on the order of 1 to 100 nm;

Therefore, it can be confirmed that liposomes are not nanomaterials since although normally liposomes have sizes slightly greater than 100 nm (which would lead to being NO NANOMATERIAL), even being below this size, they would continue to maintain their NO NANOMATERIAL status, since they are soluble and biodegradable.

Thus, formulators can benefit from all the benefits of liposome-based drug delivery technology without nanomaterial concerns.

Some of these benefits are:

• Encapsulated compound protection
• Release of the encapsulated active in the target layer of the skin or hair
• Increased stability
• Dispersion of lipophilic compounds in aqueous phases
• Masking odours and colouring

All these benefits mean that the effectiveness of the product can increase up to 15 times.

It’s clear that nanotechnology can really transform a product in terms of efficacy, efficiency and stability – what potential impact could this create for the consumers?

Our drug delivery technology based on liposomes enhances the efficacy and quality of cosmetic products while solving multiple formulation problems. Therefore, liposomes facilitate the work of the formulator while giving great added value to the cosmetic product.

However, to offer these benefits, liposomes must be correctly formulated and manufactured depending on the active to be encapsulated, the target where it must be released and the type of cosmetic product where they are to be added.

The specificity of our technology regarding cosmetic target delivery has been tested. The following images show the release of a fluorescent compound in the epidermis, stratum corneum, hair and hair follicle, respectively.

In addition, our technology has been tested using skin penetration and efficacy tests. As example, our DDS-Retinol skin penetration studies showed that when retinol is encapsulated in our liposomes, the penetration to the epidermis increases by 1150% compared to free form. In addition, DDS-Retinol is able of recovering in 7 days 90% of the collagen lost during ageing, 5 times more than free retinol.

This Q&A was brought to you in conjunction with Nanovex Biotechnologies and CEO, Daniel Pando.

Nanovex Biotechnologies SL is an innovative technology-based spin-off from the University of Oviedo founded in 2014 that provides a wide range of services and products in the nanobiotechnology field.

Enjoyed hearing from some of the best in the business? Check out this Q&A with Peruvian-based Promperú.

Although beauty tech has been around for decades, it is only in recent years that the sector has seen staggering market growth, with predictions suggesting it will surpass $34 billion by 2024. Consequently, big beauty brands have increased investment and are adopting technologies, such as Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Augmented Reality (AR), to deliver a high-quality, personalised experience.

Artificial Intelligence

Our lives are becoming increasingly dependent on technology, and skincare is just one of our routines that has been notably impacted by digitisation. The driver here has been AI, with a number of apps and devices now able to assess an individual’s skin, provide customised beauty treatments and recommend products.

A prime example of this is Olay’s Skin Advisor that utilises questionnaires and selfies submitted by users. Swedish beauty company FOREO has also built on this approach with its LUNA fofo, a facial massage and cleansing device that contains sensors which analyse the user’s skin to generate a skincare routine unique to the individual.

Augmented Reality

Other ways technology allows brands to connect with consumers is via AR. It is enabling customers to experiment virtually with a range of cosmetics, thus enhancing their shopping experience and facilitating purchasing decisions. ModiFace was one of the key pioneers of this movement, with several beauty apps which have been adopted by the likes of Sephora and Estée Lauder.

Among the brands working with ModiFace is L’Oréal for its Style My Hair mobile app, allowing users to ‘try on’ different cuts, styles and colours. The world-leading beauty brand saw the potential in this patented technology leading to its acquisition of ModiFace in 2018. Elsewhere, Benefit Cosmetics is ‘actively exploring’ new digital initiatives to reach consumers in new ways, following a significant surge of its Brow Try-On experience – which saw a 43% increase between April and May when many consumers were encouraged to stay at home.

Personalised beauty products & cosmetics

Technology is also driving personalisation in the beauty industry. According to Forrester, 77% of consumers have chosen, recommended or paid more for a brand that provides a personalised service or experience.  This explosive growth has been fuelled by the development of innovative technologies such as AI, AR, DNA analysis and 3D-printing.

An example is the growing popularity of DNA-based skincare which in 2018 had a valued market size of $7.4 billion. Products, such as EpigenCare’s SKINTELLI, are allowing consumers to test the current quality of their skin before generating a personalised skincare routine based on genetic activity. This ‘hyper-personalised’ approach is particularly appealing to consumers as it helps reduce trial-and-error purchasing.

3D Printing

Further customisation is also being achieved through the use of 3D printing technology. Procter & Gamble’s brand Opté launched its Precision Skincare System that uses blue light to scan and detect the colour and pigmentation of the skin. It uses a facial-recognition algorithm to detect the colour and pigmentation of a user’s skin and spot blemishes before precisely applying tiny jets of the exact right colour make-up to those blemishes.

This technology is constantly evolving and brands are utilising it in new ways to offer customers a truly innovative product with a personalised experience. The world’s first 3D make-up printer is set to be released in Autumn 2020. The Mink printer (a portmanteau for “make-up” and “ink”) transforms any image into wearable make-up via its smartphone app, which is printed on a ready to use ‘make-up sheet’ in just 15 seconds.

Smart Mirrors

Another way to enhance customer experience using technology is through smart mirrors, which use AI and AR to adjust an individual’s image. The technology enables consumers to virtually try different make-up looks, hairstyles and accessories, and removes the time-consuming task of removing and adding different make-up products.

Coty has executed this technology perfectly with its Wella Professionals Smart Mirror, which it unveiled at CES 2019 and was recognised as an Innovation Awards Honoree at the event. The mirror was created in partnership with CareOS and offers a live AR hair colour try on, a 360° video capture of the hair at every angle, and uses facial recognition technology to retrieve previous styles ‘tried on’ by the user.

Ingredient transparency

While technology is breaking down barriers and enabling the development of bespoke product formulations for consumers, it is also facilitating a growing examination of beauty brands and the ingredients used in their products.

Almost three-quarters (72%) of consumers want brands to explain what an ingredient does and 42% believe they do not get enough information on ingredient safety, while more than 60% want brands to identify the sources for ingredients used. Responding to the growing need for transparency, online beauty retailer Feelunique has partnered with EVRELAB to launch Europe’s first transparency technology platform in skincare and cosmetics ingredients. It aims to make complex personal care ingredient information more accessible, so consumers can make informed purchasing decisions, based on health, lifestyle or ethical concerns, at the point of sale, in-store or online.

In addition, a range of apps are now available to help consumers decode the terminology used by beauty brands and to understand the toxicity (or lack thereof) of commonly-used ingredients. For example, Think Dirty® offers an easy way to learn about ingredients used in beauty, personal care and household products. Users can scan a product barcode and receive information on the product, its ingredients and alternative cleaner options. Similar approaches can be found in the GoodGuide app and website, CosmEthics App and EWG’s Skin Deep database.

How data is driving new opportunities

While the use of technology is expanding product opportunities for consumers, it is also empowering brands in multiple ways. It gives them access to information about what consumers want, allowing cosmetic suppliers to tap into consumer trends and demand. For example, Charlotte Tilbury’s US expansion was based on e-commerce data that revealed a large demand for its products over the Atlantic.

The personal care industry was quick to realise the potential of gathering large scale data and analytics to drive the creation of innovative products. For example, L’Oréal paired up with cloud data integration and data integrity company Talend to power its R&D department’s data lake.

The partnership has enabled L’Oréal to connect all its databases and incorporate intelligent algorithms directly into data integration flows. This provides the company access to high-quality, consolidated data to analyse, helping it innovate and create new products that are safe, efficient, effective, and most importantly, in demand.

Technology and the future of personal care

The cosmetics and personal care industry continues to turn to technology, as brands look to deliver a hyper-personalised experience for consumers. While the future of beauty tech is difficult to predict, the shift in digital beauty behaviours has been accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic. And, with notable increases in the collaboration between beauty brand and technology companies, the growing use of AI, AR, 3D printing data will continue to transform the consumer experience, creating new opportunities for greater personalisation and tailor-made formulations.

Also on the Road to in-cosmetics Asia Series…

Personalisation and the question of balance

Gen Z: What do they look for in personal care & beauty products?The post Beauty & technology: ready for the future of cosmetics? | Road to in-cosmetics Asia first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/technology/beauty-tech-ready-for-the-future-of-cosmetics/feed/ 1 9999 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/technology/haptic-beauty-a-new-concept-in-the-beauty-industry/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/technology/haptic-beauty-a-new-concept-in-the-beauty-industry/#respond Mon, 08 Jun 2020 08:23:00 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=8982 The beauty industry generates annual sales of U$ 500 billion and also millions of jobs. If we refer to the crisis of 2008 and 2009, in general terms we can say that sales decreased slightly and were recovered in 2010. Our industry has always been resilient in the face of crises. McKinsey & Company published […]