Exclusive article for Personal Care Global Magazine

Experts gathered at the 2025 in-cosmetics Global Co-Lab at White City House in October to discuss sustainability in the cosmetics and personal care industry, where Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager, Net Zero Intelligence Unit, and Marta Iglesias, Director, at The Carbon Trust, led a session titled, ‘The Path to Net Zero: Unlocking Transformation Through Product Carbon Footprints’.

The 29th session of the Conference of the Parties (COP29) to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) takes place from 11 to 22 November in Baku, Azerbaijan. Every COP conference is an opportunity for international collaboration on climate change and given the cosmetic and personal care industry’s far-reaching impact on the planet’s climate, the gathering is particularly significant in driving direction and progress forward. While the industry’s contributions to greenhouse gas emissions – currently sitting at 1% – are smaller than some others, the personal care industry has a significant reach beyond what many outside the industry might realise. For context, the UK’s contribution to global emissions¹ is also 1%, highlighting the industry’s significance.

The global beauty and personal care market is projected to generate revenue of $648.60 billion this year². The largest national markets for cosmetics products within Europe include Germany (€15.9 billion), France (€13.7 billion), Italy (€12.5 billion), the UK (€11.0 billion), Spain (€10.4 billion), and Poland (€5.2 billion)³. Considering the market share, the industry’s responsibility to address environmental damage, specifically issues like ingredient sourcing, plastic packaging, waste pollution, and deforestation, cannot be understated. With COP29 on the horizon, it is crucial for the industry to grasp its role in reducing greenhouse gas emissions.

The Carbon Trust’s 2023 report, Greenhouse Gloss: Is the beauty industry’s commitment to tackling climate change more than skin deep?⁴ examines the credibility of Net Zero commitments made by the world’s ten highest-revenue beauty and personal care companies. It also highlights ways the sector can drive meaningful progress on Net Zero while ensuring sustainability claims meet high standards in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. A key finding shows that nearly one in three beauty products is marketed as “clean,” reflecting the eco-friendly preferences of 76% of consumers.

The companies assessed in the report, including L’Oréal, Unilever, Procter & Gamble, Estée Lauder, Shiseido, Beiersdorf, LVMH, Kao, Coty, and Johnson & Johnson. The Carbon Trust’s Net Zero Reality Check tool was employed to gauge climate action across the sector by reviewing the most recent annual, sustainability, and emissions reports from these companies. At the time of the report, none of the world’s ten largest beauty companies had set an independently validated Net Zero target, while three companies had not committed publicly to any Net Zero goals at all.

The clean beauty movement

“Clean beauty,” while still somewhat ambiguous in definition, has emerged over the last decade as a trend that loosely encompasses natural and or organic ingredients, cruelty-free practices, and environmentally friendly packaging, amongst various other criteria. A significant driving force behind this trend is the focus on climate change, with efforts aimed at reducing carbon emissions, minimising reliance on unsustainable processes, and mitigating environmental damage.

Marta Iglesias, Director at The Carbon Trust, observes that “clean beauty” is a concept “without a clear definition,” which can be interpreted in various ways to include natural ingredients, minimal processing, organic, vegan, and sustainable. She explains, “Beauty companies are becoming more aware of their impact on the planet, particularly the climate, and consumers are demanding greater clarity about the impacts of their beauty products and the steps companies are taking to minimise it. Claims of ‘clean’ need to be backed up by evidence of meaningful action, including climate action.”

Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager, Net Zero Intelligence Unit, at The Carbon Trust, says that the growing demand for clean beauty indicates consumers want brands to take more decisive action. She highlights that aiming for clean beauty is not “the most effective goal”; rather, specific actions on climate and sustainability are paramount. “It’s about linking products with higher aims and goals. If companies get the numbers right, they will gain real credibility. Initiatives like the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) provide validation and support,” she adds.

As of October 2024, the landscape of beauty companies has shown marked improvement since the original Greenhouse Gloss findings. Now, nine out of the top 10 global beauty companies have publicly committed to Net Zero, signaling a growing alignment with climate goals. Additionally, three of these companies have set science-aligned Net Zero targets and the majority are actively addressing emissions linked to the sourcing of raw materials, an essential area for impact given the environmental cost of ingredient production.

Top-down change

The challenge of meeting clean beauty criteria often stems from top-down legislation and regulation. Transforming a company’s entire operation and value chain to align with a decarbonised future is a significant hurdle for most sectors, including beauty. However, many companies are making great strides, with an increasing number setting science-aligned Net Zero targets and publishing transition plans. Key challenges include reducing emissions from sourcing, processing, and shipping raw materials, as well as addressing emissions from packaging. Supplier engagement and sector-wide collaboration will be crucial in overcoming these challenges, according to Iglesias.

Regulations and guidelines can be vital in combating greenwashing in the beauty industry. The Green Claims Directive⁵, for instance, aims to protect consumers from ambiguity and misleading terms like ‘climate positive’ and ‘carbon neutrality,’ which can create a false impression of environmental impact. Iglesias explains that achieving neutrality “often relies on offsets, instead of on prioritising emissions reduction measures”, but that “carbon offsetting is not guaranteed to deliver the necessary outcomes from an overall sustainability point of view.”

COP29 could help to raise levels of climate ambition and action globally. Foster highlights the two-pronged nature of its impact: formal negotiations among world leaders paired with active involvement from the real economy, including businesses, financial institutions and experts – a combination that drives positive feedback loops and is essential for meaningful change.

While the clean beauty movement reflects the good intentions of the industry, the absence of clear guidelines on its definition and implementation can pose some challenges. Establishing these guidelines in the first instance will provide direction for the beauty sector, ensuring that sustainable practices trickle down to all stakeholders. This would not only benefit the environment but also enhance product and industry standards.

Top-down regulation and legislation will be crucial in demonstrating how governments and the private sector can collaborate on global climate targets. The growing consumer demand for clean and sustainable beauty products offers a significant opportunity for the sector to take action on Net Zero and ensure sustainability claims reflect meaningful progress in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. As The Carbon Trust states, without credible action, ambitious language risks becoming mere greenhouse gloss, where promises fail to deliver meaningful change.

For information on the in-cosmetics Global Co-Labs, please visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/join-the-co-lab.html

in-cosmetics Global returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, bringing together top suppliers and manufacturers to inspire the future of cosmetics. For more information about the event, please visit the website here.

The Carbon Trust will open the Sustainability Zone Forum with a keynote session on Tuesday 8 April at 10:15. Speaker and session details will be confirmed soon.

This week, in-cosmetics Global held the first of this year’s Co-Lab events in London. Gathering leading experts in cosmetics product formulation and development from across the UK, the event provided an open platform for attendees to discuss pressing challenges, emerging opportunities, and trends for sustainable practices and products in the cosmetics industry.

The story so far…

Nina Foster, Senior Communications and Research Manager at The Carbon Trust shed light on the urgency of sustainability in the beauty and personal care sector. Drawing from the 2023 research report, Greenhouse Gloss[1], she highlighted the sector’s significant environmental impact, noting that it currently accounts for 1% of global greenhouse gas emissions – a significant figure, especially when compared to the UK’s contribution of 1% of global emissions[2]. With the global beauty market expected to grow by 6% annually through 2028, according to McKinsey & Co[3]., the potential for a growing environmental impact is clear.

She pointed out that the beauty industry not only contributes to issues like deforestation, through the sourcing of ingredients like palm oil but also faces supply chain vulnerabilities due to climate change. Common cosmetic resources such as Argan oil from Morocco and Shea butter from West Africa are increasingly at risk from extreme weather events. Foster concluded that the industry holds a unique opportunity to be part of the solution.

Accountability in the industry

Discussing progress since the publication of Greenhouse Gloss, Foster shared that nine of the 10 companies included in the report – such as L’Oréal, Unilever, and P&G – have now committed publicly to a Net Zero target. However, just three of those companies have set an independently validated Net Zero target.

Conversely, breakout sessions revealed that setting publicly available sustainability targets may not be the most viable option for smaller cosmetics organisations at this stage. Lianna Soffe, Brand Director at Ruby Hammer explained, “While we haven’t made any public commitments or targets, we’re doing everything we can to be sustainable.” This sentiment was shared amongst experts, suggesting that more needs to be done to support small and medium cosmetics businesses in their journey to a sustainable future.

Tanita Ketchen, NPD and Regulatory Manager at Laurelle London, added that one of the biggest obstacles is getting suppliers and internal leaders to set sustainability targets, and that it is often difficult to secure organisational level buy-in.

Meanwhile, Jo Farrow, Product Development Director at Hair by Sam McKnight, highlighted that when taking these changes into consideration, cosmetic businesses have to evaluate all the other costs associated with any amendments, such as retesting which can be expensive especially when clinical trials are involved.

Soffe mentioned that industry wide initiatives could “really help” smaller cosmetics businesses to succeed in their sustainability efforts.  The experts all agreed that smaller businesses could benefit from more collaboration with larger businesses.

Sustainability: a beauty consumer’s dilemma

Another central topic at the Co-Lab was the extent to which consumers truly prioritise sustainability. Data from across the board consistently indicates a desire for sustainable cosmetics products. For example, a 2020 survey from the British Beauty Council[4] found that 41% of consumers felt guilty about the environmental impact of beauty and grooming products.

Despite this, industry professionals shared their observations that in some cases, other factors can take precedence in purchasing decisions. Efficacy and performance, for example, were unanimously cited as more critical considerations than sustainability.

Timings and speed also play a crucial role, often leading brands to place unrealistic demands on ingredient manufacturers. Discussing this in the breakout sessions, Fred Edwards, COO at Monpure highlighted the sometimes-conflicting expectations, wanting products to be sustainable and eco-friendly, while also expecting them to be available almost immediately.  Dr Barbara Brockway, Scientific Advisor, Cosmetics & Personal Care, at Barbara Brockway Consulting echoed this, highlighting how the industry is “always under pressure from brands to do things in a weeks when it we know it takes months”. Meanwhile Estrella Corral, Cosmetic Market Trends and Innovations Specialist at HCT by kdc/one, advised that “This doesn’t take into consideration testing, more eco-friendly shipping methods, and other important processes”.

Beyond the buzzwords: common sustainability claims

Sustainability claims play a key role in both the formulation and marketing of beauty products across the globe, with claims encompassing a wide range of attributes, from plant-based ingredients to biodegradability and the absence of microplastics. As part of her session, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy, shared the most common sustainability claims being used by cosmetics brands[5]. The top three claims were ‘natural’ origin, biodegradability, and being free from micro-plastics.

Throughout the breakout sessions, the experts agreed that the breadth of sustainability claims are becoming more convoluted and complex for the consumer to understand. ‘Biodegradability’ specifically was mentioned by the experts as a red herring, with a significant portion of consumers confusing the term with ‘compostable’. Research suggests that about half of consumers have trouble distinguishing the terms “biodegradable” and “compostable”[6]. Experts agreed that there certainly needs to be more cohesion around sustainability claims being made, and a greater emphasis on consumer education to ensure that sustainable products are being disposed of in the correct way.

Innovation in packaging

The final speaker of the day was Paul Jenkins, Founder and Managing Director of ThePackHub, who presented some of the latest and biggest innovations in packaging, helping brands to reduce their carbon emissions. Case studies included using recycled materials or biomaterials, improving stacking efficiency for transport, reducing the weight and size of packaging, and using a refill system.

Discussion around refillable products was notable in the breakout sessions, with Tuna Ziver Yöney, Founder of Ziver Organiques Skincare advising that refills are only sometimes a viable option and that he’d encountered some resistance to the idea of refills. Meanwhile, Ketchen suggested that because refills aren’t a big trend yet, companies probably won’t invest until the concept is fully established. Soffe recommended that to be successful, refills need to be convenient and incentivised for consumers.

Victoria Brownlie, Chief Policy & Sustainability Officer at the British Beauty Council, also weighed in on the topic. She said, “Sustainability in the beauty industry is a key issue for the British Beauty Council. We established the Sustainable Beauty Coalition as a result of our Courage to Change Report in 2020 which outlined the need for industry to stop working in silos and look at more effective ways of collaborating if we are to meet our shared challenges and reduce our environmental impact.

“Creating a truly sustainable beauty industry is not just an environmental imperative; it is a strategic business decision. By embracing sustainability, we can meet consumer demand, enhance brand reputation, improve cost efficiency, and prepare for future regulations.

Opportunities for industry to come together to identify and resolve barriers to sustainable business practices can help build a future that is not only beautiful but also responsible and profitable, which we support wholeheartedly.”

Final thoughts

The event explored the steps the industry needs to take to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions. Discussions shined a spotlight on the biggest barriers facing (particularly small and medium) businesses in the cosmetics industry, when it comes to achieving Net Zero. The experts agreed that greater industry collaboration and standardisation across different regional markets is essential.

Meanwhile, the experts agreed that more effective consumer education is needed to ensure that sustainable practices are being implemented, beyond the point of sale and throughout the entire product lifecycle. Further, the session explored the need to tackle consumer misunderstanding and ensure that messaging is clearer, for example, misinformation and the use of technical INCI ingredients deterring some consumers.

As the Co-Lab experts closed the day, the unanimous agreement was that while the beauty industry is impacting the environment, it can also hold the key to the solution.

For information on the in-cosmetics Global Co-Labs and the next event being held in Düsseldorf, Germany, please visit, https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/join-the-co-lab.html

in-cosmetics Global returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, bringing together top suppliers and manufacturers to inspire the future of cosmetics. For more information about the event, please visit the website here.

Click here to learn more about the Sustainability Zone and Sustainability Zone Forum, where representatives from both The Carbon Trust and ThePackHub will be speaking.

[1] https://www.carbontrust.com/our-work-and-impact/guides-reports-and-tools/greenhouse-gloss-is-the-beauty-industrys-commitment-to-tackling-climate-change-more-than-skin-deep

[2] https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/uk-and-global-emissions-and-temperature-trends/#:~:text=The%20UK%20ranked%2017th,followed%20by%20transport%20with%2025%25.

[3] https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/the-beauty-boom-and-beyond-can-the-industry-maintain-its-growth

[4] https://issuu.com/hubbubuk/docs/the-courage-to-change_20_2_?fr=sODYxYjIxNTU5MzU

[5] Mintel GNPD (Global New Products Database) Europe.

[6] https://www.packagingdive.com/news/compost-recycling-report-BPI-closed-loop-partners/686039/#:~:text=The%20survey%20found%20that%20about,put%20compostable%20packaging%20in%20a

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

The beauty industry is undergoing a transformative shift, driven by growing consumer demand for transparency and sustainability. As regulatory frameworks tighten, particularly in the European Union with the introduction of the Digital Product Passport (DPP) under the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) Directive, the integration of advanced technologies such as Near Field Communication (NFC) is becoming crucial. NFC technology can enhance the beauty industry through digital passports, highlighting the purpose, benefits, and potential applications for beauty products, including skincare, haircare, personal care.

What is a Digital Product Passport?

A Digital Product Passport is a comprehensive electronic document embedded with essential information about a product, which includes:

• Origin – where the product is manufactured
• Composition – ingredients used in the product, as well as materials used for packaging
• Environmental Impact – the ecological footprint throughout the product lifecycle
• Recyclability and reusability – information on maintenance, reuse, and recycling potential

The DPP aims to ensure transparency and accountability in supply chains, aligning with consumer expectations and regulatory requirements.

The role of NFC technology

NFC technology enables seamless communication between devices over short distances. By integrating NFC tags with beauty products, companies can offer consumers instant access to product information simply by tapping their smartphones against the product packaging or scanning a QR code. This integration not only simplifies the consumer experience but also enhances transparency regarding product origin, ingredients, and sustainability claims.

Benefits of Implementing NFC with Digital Passports

1. Enhanced transparency

With NFC-enabled DPP’s, consumers can easily verify product information, fostering trust and loyalty. In an industry where ingredient sourcing and environmental impact are under scrutiny, this transparency is vital for informed purchasing decisions.

2. Improved sustainability

By offering detailed information about a product’s lifecycle, companies can educate consumers on sustainable practices, such as recycling and responsible disposal. This aligns with the industry’s shift towards circular economy principles, encouraging consumers to make more eco-friendly choices.

3. Streamlined supply chain management

NFC technology can facilitate better tracking of raw materials and components, ensuring compliance with sustainability standards. Companies can manage data effectively and demonstrate their commitment to ethical sourcing, leading to stronger supplier relationships and reduced risks in the supply chain.

4. Consumer engagement

NFC tags can be used for interactive marketing campaigns, allowing consumers to access tutorials, testimonials, and additional product information. This engagement can enhance brand loyalty and drive sales, as customers feel more connected to the brands they support.

Current applications in the beauty industry

Some brands have already begun implementing NFC technology in their beauty products, transforming the way consumers interact with their purchases. For example, luxury skincare lines are using NFC tags to provide detailed ingredient lists, sourcing information, and even application guidelines. This approach not only empowers consumers with knowledge but also highlights the brand’s commitment to quality and sustainability.

One notable example is Clochee, a Polish skincare company recognized for its natural, organic, and eco-friendly cosmetics. Last year, Clochee embraced NFC technology by launching a limited collection of certified products that incorporate this feature, reflecting the growing trend of integrating digital elements into beauty and personal care.

Haircare brands are following suit, utilizing NFC technology to create a direct connection with their customers. By scanning a product, users can access personalized hair care routines tailored to their specific needs, delivering a bespoke experience that enhances customer satisfaction. This level of personalization fosters deeper brand loyalty and encourages repeat purchases, making it a win-win for both consumers and brands.

In August 2024, Dyson launched its first products that combine hair care and styling, named Dyson Chitosan. This marks a significant shift for the brand, traditionally known for its high-quality vacuum cleaners. With this new line, Dyson is entering the beauty industry, offering innovative wet styling products that reflect its commitment to technological advancement in personal care.

These high-performance products promise an unparalleled user experience, enhanced by the introduction of a new NFC technology. This allows users to access tutorials, dosage tips, ingredient information, and reordering options effortlessly.

The future potential of NFC and DPP’s

As regulations like the EU ESPR Directive come into effect, the beauty industry will need to adapt rapidly. The combination of NFC technology and DPP’s holds immense potential for transforming how consumers interact with beauty products.Companies will be better equipped to meet:

1. New regulatory compliance – ensuring their products are sustainable and transparent
2. Market differentiation – brands that adopt these technologies early can differentiate themselves in a crowded marketplace, appealing to eco-conscious consumers
3. Data-driven insights – by collecting data through NFC interactions, companies can gain valuable insights into consumer behavior and preferences, enabling more effective marketing strategies. This data can also guide product development, ensuring that brands meet the evolving demands of their customer base

The integration of NFC technology with DPP’s represents a significant advancement for the beauty industry. As sustainability and transparency become increasingly important, brands that leverage these technologies will not only comply with emerging regulations but also build stronger relationships with consumers. By providing clear, accessible information about product origins and environmental impacts, the beauty industry can embrace a more responsible and innovative future.

As this transformation unfolds, the potential for enhanced consumer engagement, streamlined supply chains, and improved sustainability practices will drive the industry toward a more transparent and accountable future. By committing to these advancements, the beauty industry can lead the way in setting new standards for ethical and sustainable practices, benefiting consumers and ultimately the planet.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

As we look to celebrate World Environment Day, it’s an important opportunity to examine the status of sustainable practices across the cosmetics industry. Not only is it worth highlighting some of the significant steps that the sector is taking to enhance sustainability and mitigate its environmental footprint, but also to note where there is room for improvement.

With consumers increasingly demanding transparency in their cosmetic products, there is mounting pressure on both suppliers and major brands to adopt responsible practices, especially among ingredient sourcing. With recent news discussing some of the problematic practices uncovered in jasmine harvesting[1], it further highlights the need for greater oversight and responsibility from the very start of the supply chain.

One of the most effective ways to tackle these issues is through traceability—a vital tool that ensures companies are well-informed about their ingredient sources. For example, the launch of schemes such as the Traceability Alliance for Sustainable CosmEtics (TRASCE) showcase how industry organisations and bodies are collaborating to drive positive change. Formed in early 2024, TRASCE is a groundbreaking initiative led by Chanel and backed by 15 luxury brands and cosmetics companies. The consortium aims to enhance traceability in major ingredient and packaging supply chains across the beauty and personal care industry.

Discussing the concept of traceability in more depth, we spoke with FarmForce, a company dedicated to providing visibility in food’s “first mile”. Their innovative solutions, enable global sourcing and sustainability monitoring. This approach not only ensures the integrity of supply chains but also highlights the critical role of transparency in driving sustainable practices forward.

Global Sales Directors, Rodney Muriuki and Norbert Binot, shed light on how sustainability and traceability can go hand in hand, particularly in the cosmetics industry.

Enhancing transparency through supply chains

From brands and processors to manufacturers and producers, Muriuki emphasises the importance of transparency. He explains, “We work with customers to enhance transparency through their supply chains. The goal is to ensure that products are not just traceable but also sustainable in every action throughout the chain. This approach supports all suppliers and actors in the supply chain, making it easier for them to maintain sustainable practices.”

Two views on sustainability

Binot discusses the dual perspectives on sustainability. Binot notes, “We have two kinds of people talking about sustainability. Some see it as a need to make the world a better place, while others view it as a compliance requirement to run their business and sell products to end customers. For some, sustainability is a heartfelt mission; for others, it is a matter of meeting regulatory standards.”

The role of traceability in cosmetics

Muriuki emphasises how crucial traceability is, especially given that all cosmetic products are used on the body and skin. He says, “We believe that sustainability starts with traceability. When working with natural ingredients, which are known to be beneficial for the skin and body, understanding the sustainability initiatives from the source is essential.” For Muriuki, integrating traceability into sustainability efforts is a ‘no-brainer’.

Positive Changes in the Industry’

Binot highlights the significant impact that smaller companies in particular, can have on the environment. He observes, “We have seen small companies taking sustainability very seriously. These companies focus on organic products, farmer wellbeing, and soil protection. Their commitment to sustainability has led them to seek assistance, and Binot is pleased to see their dedication to people and the environment.”

The insights from Muriuki and Binot illustrate the critical role of traceability in achieving sustainable supply chains. Whether driven by a genuine desire to make the world a better place or by compliance needs, incorporating sustainability into business practices is essential. Focusing on traceability in the cosmetics industry will ensure that products are not only beneficial for consumers but also for the planet. As more companies embrace these principles, the future looks promising for sustainable business practices.

in-cosmetics Global 2025 will take place from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register to attend, visit here.

About Farmforce
Operating since 2012, Farmforce is a Norwegian Agri-Tech SaaS company. Our solutions enable visibility and traceability in Food’s First Mile. Using our solutions allow for sourcing and sustainability monitoring, globally. Our solutions consist of a Mobile App (Used by field staff collecting data from farmers) and Web Platform (Used by operations or sustainability managers at customers) that provides first mile traceability data for global supply chains.

[1] https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-68172560

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Ana Quevedo, a cosmetic consultant & claims specialist visited in-cosmetics Global in Paris in April 2024 and here’s her independent account.

In recent years, sustainability has become a major focus as consumers become more environmentally conscious.

The cosmetics industry has undergone a profound transformation reinventing traditional approaches where sustainable beauty, innovation, ethics, and environmental responsibility converge to shape the cosmetics industry committed to preserving our planet.

My goal today is to keep you up to date with the latest trends in sustainability and industry perspectives after in-cosmetics Global 2024.

I’d like to highlight that the world’s largest event in cosmetic ingredients is not just about showcasing beauty trends and technologies, ingredients innovations, and formulations. It is about working together towards a sustainable approach to deliver sustainability-driven solutions and green innovations for a more sustainable future in the cosmetics and personal care industry.

I want to immerse you in the latest trends in sustainable beauty during this exciting 3-day show in Paris, the picturesque capital of France. I explored the new launches from the Innovative Zone to the Sustainability Zone.

This article will give you an insight into the current landscape of sustainability in the cosmetics industry – let’s dive in!

The Sustainability Zone and sustainable ingredients approach

As a biologist, I couldn’t get enough of the Sustainability area – such an inspiring showcase with an environmental and social focus!

In addition, attendees were able to participate in the free-to-attend sessions at the Sustainability Theatre and also a one-day program, the Sustainability Zone Forum, hosted by The Green Chemist Consultancy.

Here, with experts in “green” cosmetic formulations and manufacturing, the forum focused on sustainable innovations (cosmetics ingredients and packaging) that reduce environmental and social impact

Green horizons: Embracing sustainability every step of the way

In terms of “green” cosmetic formulas and environmentally friendly manufacturing practices, the Sustainability Zone Forum focused on ingredients and production processes, both in terms of minimizing the impact on the environment.

One of the presentations on the final day that explored a unique way of embracing sustainability was the session by Kaffe Bueno.

Why is everyone talking about this company? Because this Danish manufacturer of recycled coffee ingredients is the world’s first coffee biorefinery to offer recycled multifunctional ingredients as an alternative to traditional ingredients.

Well, I want to talk about them too, because the Co-Founder and CCO of Kaffe Bueno, Alejandro Franco, spoke at the Sustainability Theatre during the show inviting us to “accelerate the transition to natural ingredients”.

Alejandro invited us to change the rules of the game with his upcycling ingredient approach, seeking sustainable solutions without compromising performance and accelerating the transition to sustainability in the personal care industry.

Kaffe Bueno also won the Rising Star Award for environmental responsibility and positive social impact through its upcycled solutions. Bravo to the whole team!

The Rising Star Award category recognized only first or second-year exhibitors, and among the list of 10 companies, another company on this list showing product innovation that caught my eye was the Spain-based company Roka Furadada.

This company is well-known for its innovative active ingredients and skincare solutions related to photoprotection, with low toxicological and environmental impact.

Another Spanish start-up on the rise at the show was Advanced Dispersed Particles, a manufacturer of non-nanometric mineral UV filters, which presented its latest product under the slogan “Look after Yourself, Look after your World.

These eco-initiatives underline the commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility to ensure minimal impact on the ecosystem in the cosmetics industry.

Today, cosmetics companies aim to create products that are safer for both consumers and the environment, and to meet ethical standards.

In addition to ingredient sourcing, manufacturing green cosmetics also involves minimizing energy consumption and waste generation. Companies can invest in renewable energy sources, such as solar or wind power, to reduce their carbon footprint. They can also implement recycling programs and use biodegradable packaging to minimize waste.

Creating a more sustainable world

Overall, the trend towards “sustainable cosmetic” reflects a growing awareness and the rise of conscious consumers attracted to sustainability within the beauty industry.

Consumers are increasingly seeking out products that align with their values of environmental responsibility, driving cosmetics ingredients manufacturers to innovate and adopt more eco-friendly approaches.

Having the opportunity to attend the Awards at the end of the first day, I enjoyed the Green Ingredient Award (in association with Ecovia Intelligence), which rewarded the cosmetic ingredients that play a key role in the pursuit of sustainability.

The Gold award went to SpruceSugar by Boreal Bioproducts, a company based in Finland with a business model that focuses on the forefront of sustainability, circular solutions and wood-based bioeconomy. Bravo!

The Silver award went to Perfectyl Biofunctional by Ashland, and the Bronze went to LignoGuard Aqua 20 – a bio-based SPF booster – by Lignovations. This young company was founded in 2021 creates a functional ingredient from biomass promoting a society in harmony with the environment.

The latest innovations in ingredients: sustainability at the forefront

The Gold award in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient category went to the German company Evonik, for the functional ingredient Ecohance Remo XP. Evonik has been recognized for its sustainable approach, highlighting sustainability as a focal point of this year’s in-cosmetics Global show.

As we look ahead to 2025, what can we expect from the cosmetics industry?

The answer lies in a continued commitment to new developments and innovations that prioritize the well-being of our planet, with sustainability at the forefront of our collective goal. After all, there is no Planet B. Let’s work together to accelerate sustainable beauty and a greener future for the cosmetics industry.

Ana Quevedo is a Spain-based biologist with 9 years’ immersive experience in the EU, the UK, and Latin America cosmetics industry. She has cultivated a profound passion for cosmetic science, and over the years, her professional journey has been marked by an unwavering commitment to mastering the intricacies of skin biology, product safety and efficacy, marketing claims, and regulatory affairs within the cosmetics field.

Her career has been defined by a relentless pursuit of knowledge and a dedication to staying at the forefront of industry trends. With a comprehensive understanding of skin biology and a keen eye for emerging beauty trends, she specializes in crafting engaging and informative content that resonates with audiences. Driven by a curiosity for the latest advancements in cosmetic science and a deep-rooted appreciation for natural and sustainable beauty, she is constantly exploring new horizons and pushing the boundaries of innovation to make meaningful contributions to the ever-evolving landscape of the cosmetics industry.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

To incorporate nature and promote sustainability in the cosmetics industry, many companies have used natural and organic extracts from plants, flowers, and seeds as formulation ingredients. However, consumers are increasingly demanding even more sustainable products. As such, many in the industry have started to investigate upcycling materials that can be reused for cosmetics and that would have otherwise been discarded. These materials include coffee grounds, olive oil wastes, and fruit peels. By maximizing the usage of natural resources, we can help reduce the cosmetic industry’s impact on the environment.

Traditionally, recycling in the cosmetics industry has been focused on packaging materials. For most cosmetic products, packaging is a necessity. This is because many formulas are sold in water-based forms and, generally, in a liquid state. These formulas are susceptible to oxidation as well as contamination by bacteria, which makes airtight packaging essential to ensure the product’s safety during its intended shelf life. However, not all packaging materials are made equal, and not all of them are strictly necessary. Due to its widespread usage, plastic attracts a lot of negative attention with respect to its environmental impacts. As such, it is now generally agreed that the end of life for all plastic packaging materials should be clearly planned out before they are adopted for usage. In France, the Agec law stipulates a total ban on single-use plastic packaging by 2040, with an initial target to recycle all plastic packaging by 2025. Consequently, from March 2023, the cosmetics industry started to print the new Triman recycling logo, along with instructions on how to recycle it, on all plastic packaging materials.

In contrast, upcycling is the process of utilizing by-products, waste materials or discarded components for new functions and transforming them into new products. Food and beverage processing by-products represent a major source of materials that can be upcycled into beauty products, particularly natural and organic cosmetics.  Food and beverage by-products often contain ungarnered food-grade ingredients that have many beneficial properties for the skin. Since it recovers elements of agricultural production destined to be destroyed or devalued, upcycling is very conducive to environmental sustainability. It maximizes usage of existing products, thereby eliminating the consumption of additional resources.

According to a 2011 report by the Swedish Institute for Food and Biotechnology, roughly one-third of the food produced for human consumption globally is lost or wasted. A large percentage of this waste happens during food material processing. To prepare food stuff and transform it into a consumer-acceptable state, a large portion of the food and beverage components have to be discarded, often for taste and aesthetic purposes. However, this discard can be upcycled into natural cosmetics, benefitting both the cosmetic industry and the environment.

As validated by many pieces of academic research and cosmetic company practices, food waste is a valuable source of materials for the creation of natural and organic upcycled cosmetics. Many collaborations between food producers and cosmetic companies have catalyzed the upcycling of food waste stream materials with precious active functions for skin applications. In the same vein, cosmetic raw material companies have also started to focus their attention on developing plant-based ingredients obtained from various food processing by-products.

Examples of food waste that can be used to develop upcycled natural and organic cosmetics include olive oil processing wastes in the forms of water and solids, citrus extracts from the likes of orange and lemon peels, waste from brewing coffee and cacao, waste from making tea, etc. Dried fruit seeds discarded from the juice and jam industries can be cold pressed and transformed into essential oils. Extracts of grape waste from wine production can be used for their pigments and active ingredients. However, the successful recovery of these ingredients for cosmetic applications demands research and developmental efforts. Often these materials need to be freshly processed into cosmetic ingredients. They also need to be freed from germs and other possible contaminations.

Increased investment by the cosmetic industry, which is reinforced by consumers’ growing appetite for circular beauty products — products that are “good for people and planet” —, will keep the development of recycled and upcycled cosmetic technology highly active in the coming years. Explorations of additional waste material streams as well as advanced recovery technologies will bring novel ingredients and functions to the beauty industry while reducing its environmental footprint.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Beauty and cosmetics packaging has long stood as a symbol of luxury and indulgence, with elaborate designs and the excessive use of materials designed to evoke emotional responses in consumers. And it makes sense; packaging is a customer’s very first introduction to a product. In a society where we are driven by aesthetics and visual appeal, a product’s shelf presence, and the resulting first impression, has a significant impact on purchasing decisions. The old adage, ‘Never judge a book by its cover’ comes to mind, but when it comes to cosmetics, the cover often takes precedence over the content.  

This was how the world of cosmetics was running until the climate crisis took hold and today, packaging across all industries is undergoing a remarkable evolution towards sustainability. Indeed, the EU’s Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), aims to ensure that all packaging in the European Union (EU) is reusable or recyclable in an economically viable way by 2030, in line with the EU Green Deal and the EU Circular Economy Action Plan.  

A number of packaging associations and leaders have signed the agreement, signalling their commitment to the prevention and minimisation of packaging waste. Ergo, the lavish and extravagant packaging that we once craved and coveted, has now become a symbol of irresponsibility and reckless consumerism. Today, shoppers are increasingly prioritising eco-conscious choices. Sustainable packaging is the reality that brands need to work towards to remain competitive and relevant in today’s market. According to a survey conducted by Trivium Packaging, 47% of consumers claimed they would not buy products in packaging that is ‘harmful to the environment’, and 74% of consumers said they would pay more for sustainable packaging, with 25% willing to pay an additional 10% or more. Pro Carton’s Consumer Survey echoes these figures, finding that 72% of consumers would pay more for a sustainably packaged item. 

Smurfit Kappa’s Sustainability Reshapes the Business Landscape For Good report also found that 42% of consumers claim to have ‘always’ or ‘often’ purchased a product specifically because it has reusable or biodegradable packaging, and nearly a third (32%) ‘always’ or ‘often’ rejected a brand based on sustainable packaging. 

The consensus is that sustainability is no longer a mere trend or ‘phase,’ but a fundamental aspect that shapes the purchasing decisions of the modern, environmentally conscious consumer. 

Cultural differences  

Examining the industry from a broader perspective, Paris-based Christine Ansari, Vice President of Korean company, CTK Cosmetics, says Europe is at the “forefront of green initiatives” which is largely due to the “high levels of regulation” compared to other regions. She adds: “Europe has always led in this space. This comes down to increased levels of regulation compared to other regions such as the US or Asia. I think it’s definitely a movement taking a global hold, and social media has played a big part in educating people further.”  

Speaking from the luxury consumer packaged goods sector, Ansari explains that while the industry is making considerable progress, it is an area that could “certainly grow and have a significant impact.” She continues: “It is becoming apparent to consumers that not only can they save on costs, but eliminating excess packaging is generally helpful. The challenge to the industry lies in presenting this in a way that the value and quality is not compromised and is still highly regarded.” 

As the industry adapts to ongoing changing consumer preferences, the emphasis will remain not only on reducing the environmental footprint, but also on redefining how value is perceived in high and luxury quality cosmetics.  

Minimising waste first 

Winfried Mühling, Marketing and Communications Director of Pro Carton, the European association of carton and carton board manufacturers, says when it comes to reducing cosmetic packaging, the importance lies in distinguishing between what is truly necessary and what is merely excess. He explains, “There are still several elements to packaging. You have the container the product comes in, the primary packaging, the secondary packaging, and the supply chain packaging, most of which gets disregarded before the product is even on-shelfs. It all starts with the primary packaging, so if you design it in a smart way, you can avoid all these unnecessary elements and what is called ‘overpackaging’.”  

He continues: “In cosmetics and personal care, consumers want beautiful, visually appealing packaging with special protection, and companies might have the tendency to take a 50ml liquid product and place it in a 200ml container to create impact. Subsequently, the primary and secondary packaging are impacted too, so you are overpackaging throughout the supply chain. Of course, this is not only unnecessary, wasteful packaging, but it fools customers about the product they are buying.” 

Mühling stresses that by prioritising simplicity, efficiency, and eco-friendly materials from the point of packaging design, businesses can not only contribute to environmental conservation but also meet the evolving expectations of conscious consumers in a global market. 

Another key element in reducing waste is in materials, which Ansari notes is where she has seen the most significant shift. “We’re experiencing more emphasis placed on material; the type of material, the amount of material, and then, whether it is new or post-consumer recycled material to replace and eliminate certain others,” she says. “It’s pushing us, as an Asian supplier, to reassess the products we use, but ultimately, it comes down to cost. In many cases, PET is traditionally a higher cost material than plastic. But when the consumer is demanding it, you don’t really have a choice, so it is helping [us] shift in the right direction.”  

Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at The Hut Group, emphasises a proactive approach to addressing packaging waste, stating that “understanding the problem” is the “first step” towards finding effective solutions. “You can’t fix a problem that you don’t know is there” he explains. “The first strategy I would always recommend for minimising packaging waste would be to complete a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) on the current ways of working and understand where the low-hanging fruit is in terms of process optimisation and materials reductions.”  

Lowe suggests that conducting LCAs enables businesses to pinpoint areas of improvement and can provide valuable insights into the environmental impact of existing processes, guiding them toward more sustainable alternatives. Within the LCA, Lowe notes multiple assessment categories can be tailored to specific purposes, allowing for a more detailed analysis of the packaging process. Completing the LCA, he argues, is a cost-effective investment that yields critical information for developing budgets and plans for implementing new, sustainable solutions.  

Ahead of the game, Estée Lauder, the beauty giant and owner of 26 globally-recognised brands including Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Bumble and Bumble, Clinique, La Mer, MAC Cosmetics, Origins, Smashbox, and more, already uses LCA software to monitor the environmental impacts of its packaging and design functions. It reported in 2022 that 63% of packaging used by the company was recyclable, refillable, reusable, recycled, or recoverable. 

Taking the plunge 

Addressing some of the challenges in the pursuit of sustainable packaging and shedding light on potential trade-offs that businesses may encounter, Mühling emphasises the significance of consumer acceptance. 

He explains: “The consumer wants to have a good feeling and enjoy the ‘unboxing’ experience, but many studies have shown the most important packaging feature to consumers is recyclability. Consumers are increasingly wanting to feel responsible and know what will happen to the product after its initial use.”   

This stance aligns with a broader trend of consumers increasingly prioritising environmentally responsible practices, and highlights where compromises must be made to achieve a healthy balance between environmental impact and consumer satisfaction. Mühling also advises against having “too many loose parts coming together,” and that it is important to “streamline” the product design process to facilitate easier and better recycling. 

When it comes to consumer expectations, Ansari acknowledges that instilling value in new packaging concepts such as refillable systems can be a significant challenge, as customers often associate value with the excitement of acquiring a brand-new product.  

“The consumer has a certain fantasy with getting something new, so it can be challenging to create value in refill systems. But there is a bridge to cross to get to the point where the consumer accepts using their existing compact or lipstick, for example, because it’s durable, beautiful, and still works perfectly. This is where a level of education comes into play. The paradigm has shifted from a simple product purchase where you ‘just have to take the cap off and go,’ to a more involved process that necessitates consumer education and understanding.” 

While the allure of novelty can pose a hurdle in convincing consumers to embrace refillable options, consumers are increasingly taking awareness to a more meaningful level. Ansari notes that different brands have different methods of managing refill systems, and this is where investment in R&D becomes pivotal, especially in developing biomaterials that can replace conventional plastics. 

Looking ahead 

Looking towards the future trends of sustainable packaging, there’s a strong prediction from Ansari that refills will take center stage, particularly with skincare’s refillable jars gaining traction over the last few years. She notes that the perception around refills has evolved, challenging the notion that they compromise on aesthetics or luxury, and that visually appealing refills, even with glass packaging, are now a reality, blending aesthetics with sustainability.  

“I think refills will become important because it’s a very effective way of eliminating extra, excess material,” she said. “Up until now, the challenge has been in making refills sexy and alluring to consumers, and now we’re seeing you can do attractive refills. It’s mostly been in skincare with refillable jars and lipstick, so I think this year and beyond, we’re going to see that trickle down to touch a wider range of products.” 

Lowe contends that the traditional model of packaging is seeing an evolution, with an increased focus on return schemes for empty products. “Companies are starting to introduce take-back-style processes whereby once the container is used, it can be returned to the sender, free of charge, for recycling, cleaning and re-use. While these return schemes are still in their nascent stages and face challenges related to costs, this is expected to be a key driver for companies looking to distinguish themselves in a competitive market where eco-conscious choices are becoming increasingly prioritised.” 

In addition, the role of packaging as a messenger for brands is set to become even more crucial. Packaging will always serve as the first point of contact for consumers, and this initial touchpoint presents a significant opportunity for brands to leverage sustainability as a powerful sales tool. Mühling notes the key lies in creating packaging that “not only entices but also captures” the attention of consumers amidst the myriad of choices on the shelves.  

The ongoing discourse around sustainable packaging within the cosmetics and personal care industry is helping move it towards making better, eco-conscious choices. Leaders like Mühling, Ansari, and Lowe echo a call for true innovation and action, urging the industry to reconcile sustainability with consumer expectations, aesthetics, and operational viability.  

Sustainability stands as one of the key pillars of the in-cosmetics Global show and this year, it will focus on championing a more eco-conscious industry by providing a pivotal platform for those looking to drive real, positive change. The Sustainability Zone will return, in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy, promising to help and inspire suppliers and manufacturers on their journeys to becoming more sustainable. A new addition to the show this year will be the Sustainability Zone Forum, a one-day programme that will delve deeper into practices that companies are employing throughout the lifecycle of cosmetic products, hosting leaders who will share and discuss new advancements that can help minimise environmental impact. Offshoot features on the show floor will also include the Sustainability Display and Presentation Theatre, sponsored by AAK, and the Sustainability Pavilion, powered by Farmforce. 

Stay tuned for the next article in our Sustainability Series looking at Greenwashing, Bluewashing and Honest Marketing. 

in-cosmetics Global, powered by KSM, returns from 16-18 April 2024 at the Porte de Versailles, Paris. For more information and to register to attend, visit here. 

in-cosmetics Global brought together leading minds from the cosmetic and personal care sector, as well as eminent sustainability and regulatory experts for the first ever ‘Co-Lab’ event held at White City House, London. The event focused on untangling sustainability complexities and fostering discussions on confusing and varying interpretations of practices.

Presentations emphasised the significance of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in supporting cosmetic brands and unveiled regulatory insights set to transform the landscape of sustainable industry practices. Group brainstorms also played a crucial role throughout the day, providing attendees with the chance to share their own insights, address key sector challenges, and collaboratively explore innovative, sustainable solutions.

The world of cosmetics is undergoing rapid change, with sustainability shifting from a trend to a necessity. But what is really driving momentum in the cosmetic and personal care sector and how is it being implemented?

Sustainability sells!

According to McKinsey and Company, over the last five years, products that make environmental, social and governance (ESG)-related claims have grown disproportionately, accounting for over half (56%) of all market growth.

However, this isn’t the whole story. Throughout the session’s presentations and group discussions, the professionals were unanimous that despite consumers consistently reporting favouring sustainable products, they are unwilling to compromise on performance and quality. Of course, this can pose several challenges when it comes to formulation: Industry professionals detailed the complexities of adapting and reformulating an existing product in a more sustainable way, without impacting the finished product. They also discussed this can take significant time and cost, which – they caution – some smaller firms may not be able to shoulder. Many agreed that green chemistry methods can enable cosmetics formulators to combine naturally derived ingredients and sustainable practices while maximising cosmetic performance.

Confusion in the market

Consumer mistrust in sustainability claims is indeed a significant issue, and studies like the one by the European Commission highlight this. According to the study, 53.3% of environmental claims in the EU were found to be vague, misleading, or unfounded, while 40% were unsubstantiated.

One of the big issues is the host of different environmental and ethical claims that beauty brands can make about their products. Claims vary hugely and can include anything from animal welfare and social responsibility (fair wages for workers) to plant-based/vegan, organic positioning, and sustainable packaging. Therefore, it’s understandable that consumers can be left confused and may have simplistic views of what sustainable beauty products truly are.

To make matters more complex, regulatory mandates can vary hugely from one market to another. For brands operating in multiple regions, the lack of a consistent, cross-regional approach to regulations means they can be extremely difficult to address.

Additionally, the physical practice of adding sustainability credentials to cosmetics packaging can be tricky. As brands look to reduce the size of their packaging – to remove empty space, use fewer resources, and produce less waste, or remove packaging altogether – the opportunity to market and communicate certain credentials and messaging diminishes.

Sustainability credentials

Today, many savvy consumers are seeking the opportunity to be educated on what’s really behind the cosmetics they are purchasing. Therefore, if we are to see growth in the industry it is important that cosmetics brands are working hard to boost consumer trust and improve transparency.

To improve their sustainability credentials, brands need to be as comprehensive and holistic as possible in their approach. For example, if brands cherry-pick which elements they want to focus on – such as focusing on sustainable packaging but failing to acknowledge carbon emissions – credentials can lose their meaning.

Certified sustainability

While many cosmetics brands do have some form of sustainable practices in place, there currently isn’t a standardised approach for measuring and documenting credentials. Businesses can employ various approaches, including certifications, which come in three degrees: self-certification, second-party, and third-party. Common examples of third-party frameworks include the COSMOS-standard, NATRUE standard, and the RSB framework.

Scores on the doors

As part of her session, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy, focused on the concept that if sustainability can be measured, then “a scoring system for sustainable products should be feasible.” Olioso described how The EcoBeautyScore Consortium has developed an industry-wide environmental impact assessment and scoring system for cosmetics products. The collective currently has over 70 stakeholders, including big players such as Unilever, Johnson & Johnson, and L’Oreal.

When discussing the Eco Beauty Scores, the professionals described what they considered to be some of the key challenges of implementing the system. Primarily, it can be difficult to identify the criteria for a score, as there are so many potential factors to take into account. According to the professionals, the system has everything it needs to succeed, but stakeholders “need to find a way to simplify it”.

Introducing LCAs

Another increasingly popular option for cosmetic brands is to commission a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). LCAs provide brands with a holistic overview of how eco-friendly their products are, with a complete breakdown of the emissions at each stage and how they can be reduced. The assessments examine every stage of the product lifecycle – from cradle to grave. Starting with the raw material extraction, then looking at the manufacturing processes, distribution, how the product is used by the consumer, whether it can be recycled, and ultimately, disposal.

LCAs can be a useful tool for brands, however, some of our professionals shared some of their concerns. Not only can LCAs be considered costly and time-consuming, but they also described how the system could potentially be branded as greenwashing. For context, an LCA only covers the areas of a product that the business requests and often targets “low-hanging fruit”; exploring the areas which can be addressed quickly and easily.

Stretching resources

Lack of resources – both time and cost – is one of the biggest roadblocks for sustainability in the cosmetics industry. The experts discussed how many brands don’t have a sustainability department and as such, it can be difficult to put the resources in place.

For many businesses, it may not be financially viable to set up a sustainability team or make new hires to pick up the work. Therefore, it’s often an add-on to existing departments, stretching resources thin. While a third-party certification, assessment, or another metric, can lighten the internal workload, it can also be costly.

Moving forward

As an industry, it’s essential to rethink the way that we develop and manufacture new ingredients and finished products. However, it’s not going to be an easy task. With government regulations evolving, the session concluded that it is essential that formulators consider the resilience of the ingredients and processes being used and how they will fare in the future.

When it comes to understanding their beauty ingredients and products, the professionals highlighted the notion that consumers often want black and white concepts and rules. But, in reality, the cosmetics landscape is grey. The professionals agreed that variety is (and will be) what leads to better sustainability overall.

Though some form of standardised metrics certainly needs to be implemented, a balance is essential. In order to create high-performing, innovative products, which are also able to stand up from a sustainability perspective, formulators need some flexibility to operate within parameters.

To drive genuine, positive change in the industry, collaboration and unification will be key in combatting the challenges that lie ahead.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

If you are interested in sustainable and natural products, in-cosmetics Asia has a number of sessions focused on sustainable, natural and biotechnical ingredients.

The global appetite for natural and organic cosmetics has grown rapidly, a trend that can be attributed to several factors, not least an increased awareness about the potential benefits of using natural and organic products and a growing desire for more sustainable options. In fact, the APAC region contributed significantly to this growth; according to the GlobalData Consumer Survey Q3 2019[1], over a third (39%) of consumers in the APAC region proactively sought products that contained only natural ingredients.

Fast-forward to now, and while the demand for natural and organic cosmetics remains strong, a focus also lies on “scientifically proven” ingredients – reflecting a growing demand for products that provide tangible benefits backed by research and evidence and a recognition that not all effective and safe ingredients are found in nature.

So, what are brands and suppliers experiencing?

The enduring allure of au naturale

In a world marked by rapid technological advancement, the allure of natural products remains steadfast. Consumers can be drawn to products that embody the simplicity and authenticity of nature while offering an enjoyable consumer experience, and companies have had no choice but to respond. L’Oréal, for example, has committed to ensuring 95% of the ingredients in its formulas will be from biobased sources, derived from abundant minerals or from circular processes by 2030.

Phillip Prather, COO of Down Under Enterprises, a specialist in traceable and sustainable Australian essential oils and botanicals, confirmed that they “are experiencing a significant increase in demand from personal care formulators for natural ingredients across all global markets.” Down Under Enterprises runs a regular survey of visitors to its site, and approximately “60% of these respondents cite their desire for natural ingredients in their new formulations”. When asked about their interest in natural ingredients, specifically essential oils, respondents cited factors including fragrance, functionality, marketing claims, and grower or ingredient storytelling.

As consumers are becoming more conscious of the ingredients they put on their skin, natural cosmetics can sometimes be perceived as having fewer harmful chemicals, artificial additives, and potential allergens. According to Technavio’s Natural Cosmetics Market by Type[2] report, there is an increasing consumer demand for “chemical-free” and environment-friendly, natural cosmetic products. The report discusses how the personal care industry as a whole is “undergoing a transformation” due to changing consumer perceptions and increased awareness of the products they use. It cites the demand for natural beauty products is rising in part due to the increased health consciousness among customers worldwide; issues such as skin irritations, skin allergies, hair loss, acne, dark marks, and other beauty-related problems have propelled the demand for organic beauty products.

Kilala Tilaar, CEO of Martha Tilaar Group, one of the largest cosmetics companies in Indonesia, described a particular growing demand for “naturally formulated” products amongst Millennials and Generation Zs. The company’s ‘post-Covid’ market research found 60% of these younger consumers chose natural cosmetics formulation over synthetic. Moreover, the power of social media has had a profound impact on shaping these trends and influencing consumer behaviour, amplifying ideas, beliefs and concepts via user-generated content.

Evidence-based beauty

While natural and organic ingredients remain high in popularity, there is a recognition that not all effective and safe ingredients are necessarily found in nature. Scientifically researched and tested ingredients, including synthetic compounds, peptides, vitamins, and advanced technologies, can offer these benefits in ways more effective than some natural ingredients.

According to Yuki Kinoshita at TriBeaute, developer and supplier of unique active ingredients for skincare, haircare and nutrition, synthetic ingredients stand strong when it comes to efficacy. “Synthetic ingredients have clear benefits in efficacy. For example, when it comes to specific skin or hair trouble, synthetic ingredients such as peptides are specifically designed to target trouble areas to see improvement.” However, she said while the cost of synthetic ingredients can be cheaper, it “depends on the raw material and manufacturing process.”

Weighing in on the situation is Zio Lee, Manager at CQV, a South Korean manufacturer of pearlescent effect pigments. He said while they expect to see synthetic ingredients being used less widely in the future, they noted that “natural ingredients [are] generally more expensive” than their synthetic counterparts. Currently, the cost of natural ingredients is somewhat higher than synthetic ones. But as the demand for natural ingredients continues, the supply chain will continue to improve processes, increasing cheaper natural ingredients for the industry.

Nature vs nurture

It is clear from consumer trends that the APAC industry will see a rise in use of natural ingredients, particularly as consumers continue to prioritise sustainability and ethical considerations in their purchasing decisions. However, it’s important to note that this won’t be a complete shift away from synthetic beauty products, but rather a recognition that a balanced approach incorporating both scientifically proven and naturally derived ingredients can provide a wider range of effective options for consumers.

“[Synthetic ingredients] will still have a role to play in cosmetics,” said Prather. “[But] they will need to step up their game in the area of sustainability credentials, and greenhouse gas (GHG) footprint validation. Manufacturers need sustainability information about their ingredients, [and] if natural ingredient suppliers cannot provide this, manufacturers will need to look elsewhere.”

[1] https://www.globaldata.com/media/consumer/39-apac-consumers-looking-for-natural-and-clean-ingredients-in-beauty-products-says-globaldata/

[2] https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/64-of-growth-to-originate-from-apac-for-natural-cosmetics-market-consumer-demand-for-chemical-free–environment-friendly-natural-cosmetics-products-to-boost-market-growth–17000-technavio-reports-301442300.html

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

I was inspired to write this column by a trend that is booming in Colombia and other countries. On my last flights, I have seen how more and more people travel with their cats and dogs in the cabin. In fact, there are people who buy the ticket for their pet. In December 2022, a flight that covered the Sao Paulo – Bogotá route made headlines because 20 pet dogs came on it in the cabin. Although it is true that this can pose a risk, for example in a possible evacuation, it is interesting to see how the pet-friendly trend is increasingly present. Now we can go with our furry friends to shopping malls, restaurants, cafeterias, hairdressers, public transport… The term “friendly” is becoming important to identify products and services that have special designs and characteristics, that is, friendly to a specific parameter. This concept has diversified quite a bit in cosmetics and now we are going to see some trends in the “friendly” world.

Pet-friendly: The reality is that pets have become a fundamental part of families. In fact, many of the plans that people make (for example, having a coffee) depend on whether pets are welcome in establishments and if they have the minimum amenities for their well-being. The new role of pets in society brings exciting market and innovation opportunities. Many people consider their dogs and cats as their children. In cosmetics we are seeing a boom in vegan products for pets. We find a wide variety of shampoos and conditioners for the enormous diversity of hair types that dogs and cats have. We also see dry foam baths, which are water-free, have fragrances that provide aromatherapy benefits, and respect the pH and microbiome.

Eco-friendly: It refers to products that have been elaborated and manufactured respecting the environment, emphasizing the benefits for it and its subsequent recycling. Some of the characteristics of these products are that they contribute to energy savings, they are non-toxic, they are recyclable, they can include parts of the product that are made with recycled materials, they do not pollute the environment, they are biodegradable, they reduce the carbon footprint or emissions of gases.

Microbiome-friendly: The boom in the microbiome and related products such as prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics is incredible and we are seeing amazing innovations every time. The microbiome-friendly trend has two facets. First, we look at ingredients, such as excipients and actives, that have specially designed tests to show that they do not affect, modify or change the skin microbiome. On the other hand, we also see studies on formulations that do not modify the microbiome and promote the health and correct condition of the skin. In the market we can find companies that certify this claim.

Inclusive-friendly: An inclusive society is one that considers that all people have the same rights simply because they are human beings. When a society does not recognize the same value to all its members, the basic foundations of dignity are undermined and inequality and injustice are fostered. A few years ago, a well-known cosmetic brand published a very interesting consumer insight: “56% of people may feel excluded by the cosmetics industry”, which is why the company announced at the time that it will remove the word normal from the packaging and the advertising your products. For this reason, we are experiencing a boom in products and concepts related to inclusion in cosmetic products.

Well, now it’s time for inclusive science. The new inclusion is developing on a biochemical level. For this reason, this year we will witness how companies and suppliers will present new evaluation methods and efficacy studies, involving in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo tests, considering different skin types, conditions, genotypes and phenotypes. The inclusion is now at the molecular level.

Scalp-friendly: The market teaches us new proposals that are respectful of the scalp, so that it feels comfortable, with less oily sensation and generating a friendly environment so that the hair follicle can develop in good conditions. This trend includes new concepts where we are discovering new ingredients that include postbiotics, vitamins, ferments, peptides and extracts with different mechanisms of action and original claims. Scalp is the new face.

Makeup-friendly: Now with the boom in cosmetics and hybrid formulations, this is a claim that is beginning to gain relevance. We now see many products that indicate their compatibility with makeup, before and after use.

Disability-friendly: A recent publication by Elizabeth Bennett on the fashionista.com portal invites you to learn about some of the brands that make products more accessible for people with disabilities. We are seeing innovations that are amazing, related to adaptable makeup tools for people with limitations. Brands are now analyzing and targeting the limitations in vision, mobility and dexterity that many consumers of cosmetic products have. Beauty is a universal right and cosmetic companies have a great market and innovation opportunity when considering all human beings. Beauty should not be overwhelming, it should be simple and easy to use for anyone. The article mentions a sentence that I find revealing: “Often the disability is in the design, not in the person”.

Sensory-friendly: The World Health Organization (WHO) indicates that 3.6% of the world population suffers from post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), of which 13 million are in United States. On the other hand, 75% million people in the world have autism. Currently more than 55 million people are living with dementia worldwide and an estimated 366 million people are living with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD). The pandemic has had a direct impact on these statistics. That is why we see innovation for these segments in many categories, such as cinemas, games, clothing and theaters that involve the sensory friendly concept, among many others.

What can the cosmetics industry do in the face of this market opportunity? Last year the first beauty salon for children with autism opened in Australia. This concept is undoubtedly opening the door to new personal care, skincare, fragrance and makeup formulations with the sensory-friendly promise for these conditions.

Beauty-friendly is the new black. Being respectful of beauty in all its forms and expressions is the new trend. Design is now universal and the cosmetics industry is beginning to understand the great opportunity that this represents.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS