in-cosmetics Global has announced the details of its Sustainability Zone, a comprehensive space designed to help brands reduce environmental impact and enhance their sustainability credentials.

Sponsored by AAK and in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy and Ecovia Intelligence, the zone will provide invaluable opportunities to explore green solutions across four key areas; the Forum, Display, Theatre, and Pavilion; all of which will serve as a catalyst for learning, networking, and discovering sustainable solutions.

The zone will be led by leading organisations, including AAK, The Carbon Trust, Provital, the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety (ICCS), Givaudan, NATRUE, Syensqo, Carbonwave, and more, featuring interactive sessions, exhibits, showcases, and expert presentations.

The Sustainability Zone Forum, sponsored by AAK and curated by The Green Chemist Consultancy, will feature a two-day programme of expert-led discussions on green chemistry, regulatory compliance, life cycle analysis and ethical ingredient sourcing. Speakers will explore ways to drive sustainability improvements, minimise environmental impact and address unmet industry needs, offering valuable insights into sustainable practices across formulation, packaging and beyond. This year, the Forum will be located on the show floor, ensuring better accessibility for attendees.

Speakers from The Carbon Trust will share insights into ways the beauty industry can update its practices to align with net-zero targets and avoid greenwashing in ‘Navigating Net Zero: Communicating with Credibility in the Context of the EU Green Claims Directive.’ Delving into the benefits of upcycling, Judit Camargo, Founder & CEO of Roka Furdada, will explore the antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-acne properties of Sotabosk, a lignin-based cosmetic ingredient derived from upcycled biomass byproducts, in the session, ‘Roka Cirkle Sotabosk: Redefining Sustainability Through Upcycling.’

The interactive Display area, sponsored by AAK, will spotlight product advancements in sustainable personal care. This space will feature display pods showcasing sustainable projects and initiatives as well as responsibly sourced raw materials that deliver high performance and a reduced environmental impact, with exhibitors such as Oleon NV demonstrating the benefits of recyclable and reusable esters produced by enzymes. Visitors will have the opportunity to explore the latest innovations in sustainability and gain insight into the industry’s most forward-thinking solutions from suppliers like Provital, Nouryon, AAK Sweden and many more.

The Sustainability Theatre will provide a platform for expert insights, with leading voices from AAK, Lanxess Deutschland, Beauty Kitchen and others discussing eco-design and transparent, responsible sourcing in ingredient formulation, circular economy strategies, and how reducing Scope 3 emissions can make a significant difference to a brand’s environmental impact.

Kicking off the Theatre programme on day one, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist, will explore the transformative role of sustainability in cosmetics development in ‘Regenerative Beauty with Green Chemistry,’ highlighting the importance of eco-design in formulation, ethical ingredient sourcing, and sustainable packaging, offering insights into how circular design strategies and groundbreaking materials can shape a greener, more equitable future for beauty. Other speakers, such as Jacques Courtès, Senior Account Representative, Transparency-One and Dr. Sophie Roelants, COO and Co-founder of AmphiStar will delve into the finer details of how brands can use data and innovative new ingredients to meet net-zero targets and preserve the environment’s natural biodiversity.

Courtès from Transparency-One will present ‘Mapping your Supply Chain and Tackling Worldwide Regulations,’ exploring how industry leaders effectively manage supply chains and social risks and track progress toward ESG goals. The session will demonstrate how businesses can stay compliant with evolving global regulations by efficiently collecting supplier documentation, certifications, and necessary compliance data.

In ‘Sourcing & Valuing Low Carbon Products,’ Kelly Gilroy, VP Commercial Sustainability at Univar Solutions, will explore the growing market demand for low-carbon products and the crucial role of Product Carbon Footprint (PCF) data in helping brands achieve their sustainability goals.

Mélanie Marquis Schiffer, Sustainability Project Manager at Symrise, will discuss the company’s commitment to sustainability and innovation in, ‘Integrating Planetary Boundaries into Portfolio Management and Driving Innovation Toward a Sustainable Future.’ The planetary boundaries framework defines the ecological limits within which humanity can safely operate, while preserving natural resources and ecosystems. Symrise utilises this framework to highlight how companies can strive to reduce carbon emissions, conserve biodiversity, and ensure responsible sourcing of raw materials.

Dr. Roelants from AmphiStar will lead ‘From Waste to Wonders: Bringing Performing and Affordable Biosurfactants to the Market,’ discussing the creation of microbial biosurfactants from locally sourced waste and side-products, such as supermarket food waste, from the agri-food industry. These circular biosurfactants serve as drop-in replacements for traditional ingredients, without competing with food production or impacting land use, significantly reducing the carbon footprint of finished products.

The Sustainability Pavilion will be a hub for connecting with experts and suppliers in sustainable beauty practice. Covering consultancy, accreditation, packaging, distribution and life cycle analysis, companies like Ecovia Intelligence, Fairglow and Natrue will showcase solutions that enhance transparency and reduce environmental impact across the supply chain.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “Sustainability has been a core part of the beauty industry for a long time, and it’s essential to keep pushing for new solutions that benefit both consumers and the planet. Whether through innovative technologies, alternative solutions, or new ways of sourcing and creating ingredients, the Sustainability Zone offers an expansive hub for the personal care community to explore these new, creative ideas. It also helps ensure the industry is prepared for evolving regulations and policies while supporting companies in making the necessary changes to stay ahead.”

in-cosmetics Global, presented by KSM, returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI, Amsterdam. For more information and to register to attend, visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global.

Beauty and cosmetics packaging has long stood as a symbol of luxury and indulgence, with elaborate designs and the excessive use of materials designed to evoke emotional responses in consumers. And it makes sense; packaging is a customer’s very first introduction to a product. In a society where we are driven by aesthetics and visual appeal, a product’s shelf presence, and the resulting first impression, has a significant impact on purchasing decisions. The old adage, ‘Never judge a book by its cover’ comes to mind, but when it comes to cosmetics, the cover often takes precedence over the content.  

This was how the world of cosmetics was running until the climate crisis took hold and today, packaging across all industries is undergoing a remarkable evolution towards sustainability. Indeed, the EU’s Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), aims to ensure that all packaging in the European Union (EU) is reusable or recyclable in an economically viable way by 2030, in line with the EU Green Deal and the EU Circular Economy Action Plan.  

A number of packaging associations and leaders have signed the agreement, signalling their commitment to the prevention and minimisation of packaging waste. Ergo, the lavish and extravagant packaging that we once craved and coveted, has now become a symbol of irresponsibility and reckless consumerism. Today, shoppers are increasingly prioritising eco-conscious choices. Sustainable packaging is the reality that brands need to work towards to remain competitive and relevant in today’s market. According to a survey conducted by Trivium Packaging, 47% of consumers claimed they would not buy products in packaging that is ‘harmful to the environment’, and 74% of consumers said they would pay more for sustainable packaging, with 25% willing to pay an additional 10% or more. Pro Carton’s Consumer Survey echoes these figures, finding that 72% of consumers would pay more for a sustainably packaged item. 

Smurfit Kappa’s Sustainability Reshapes the Business Landscape For Good report also found that 42% of consumers claim to have ‘always’ or ‘often’ purchased a product specifically because it has reusable or biodegradable packaging, and nearly a third (32%) ‘always’ or ‘often’ rejected a brand based on sustainable packaging. 

The consensus is that sustainability is no longer a mere trend or ‘phase,’ but a fundamental aspect that shapes the purchasing decisions of the modern, environmentally conscious consumer. 

Cultural differences  

Examining the industry from a broader perspective, Paris-based Christine Ansari, Vice President of Korean company, CTK Cosmetics, says Europe is at the “forefront of green initiatives” which is largely due to the “high levels of regulation” compared to other regions. She adds: “Europe has always led in this space. This comes down to increased levels of regulation compared to other regions such as the US or Asia. I think it’s definitely a movement taking a global hold, and social media has played a big part in educating people further.”  

Speaking from the luxury consumer packaged goods sector, Ansari explains that while the industry is making considerable progress, it is an area that could “certainly grow and have a significant impact.” She continues: “It is becoming apparent to consumers that not only can they save on costs, but eliminating excess packaging is generally helpful. The challenge to the industry lies in presenting this in a way that the value and quality is not compromised and is still highly regarded.” 

As the industry adapts to ongoing changing consumer preferences, the emphasis will remain not only on reducing the environmental footprint, but also on redefining how value is perceived in high and luxury quality cosmetics.  

Minimising waste first 

Winfried Mühling, Marketing and Communications Director of Pro Carton, the European association of carton and carton board manufacturers, says when it comes to reducing cosmetic packaging, the importance lies in distinguishing between what is truly necessary and what is merely excess. He explains, “There are still several elements to packaging. You have the container the product comes in, the primary packaging, the secondary packaging, and the supply chain packaging, most of which gets disregarded before the product is even on-shelfs. It all starts with the primary packaging, so if you design it in a smart way, you can avoid all these unnecessary elements and what is called ‘overpackaging’.”  

He continues: “In cosmetics and personal care, consumers want beautiful, visually appealing packaging with special protection, and companies might have the tendency to take a 50ml liquid product and place it in a 200ml container to create impact. Subsequently, the primary and secondary packaging are impacted too, so you are overpackaging throughout the supply chain. Of course, this is not only unnecessary, wasteful packaging, but it fools customers about the product they are buying.” 

Mühling stresses that by prioritising simplicity, efficiency, and eco-friendly materials from the point of packaging design, businesses can not only contribute to environmental conservation but also meet the evolving expectations of conscious consumers in a global market. 

Another key element in reducing waste is in materials, which Ansari notes is where she has seen the most significant shift. “We’re experiencing more emphasis placed on material; the type of material, the amount of material, and then, whether it is new or post-consumer recycled material to replace and eliminate certain others,” she says. “It’s pushing us, as an Asian supplier, to reassess the products we use, but ultimately, it comes down to cost. In many cases, PET is traditionally a higher cost material than plastic. But when the consumer is demanding it, you don’t really have a choice, so it is helping [us] shift in the right direction.”  

Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at The Hut Group, emphasises a proactive approach to addressing packaging waste, stating that “understanding the problem” is the “first step” towards finding effective solutions. “You can’t fix a problem that you don’t know is there” he explains. “The first strategy I would always recommend for minimising packaging waste would be to complete a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) on the current ways of working and understand where the low-hanging fruit is in terms of process optimisation and materials reductions.”  

Lowe suggests that conducting LCAs enables businesses to pinpoint areas of improvement and can provide valuable insights into the environmental impact of existing processes, guiding them toward more sustainable alternatives. Within the LCA, Lowe notes multiple assessment categories can be tailored to specific purposes, allowing for a more detailed analysis of the packaging process. Completing the LCA, he argues, is a cost-effective investment that yields critical information for developing budgets and plans for implementing new, sustainable solutions.  

Ahead of the game, Estée Lauder, the beauty giant and owner of 26 globally-recognised brands including Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Bumble and Bumble, Clinique, La Mer, MAC Cosmetics, Origins, Smashbox, and more, already uses LCA software to monitor the environmental impacts of its packaging and design functions. It reported in 2022 that 63% of packaging used by the company was recyclable, refillable, reusable, recycled, or recoverable. 

Taking the plunge 

Addressing some of the challenges in the pursuit of sustainable packaging and shedding light on potential trade-offs that businesses may encounter, Mühling emphasises the significance of consumer acceptance. 

He explains: “The consumer wants to have a good feeling and enjoy the ‘unboxing’ experience, but many studies have shown the most important packaging feature to consumers is recyclability. Consumers are increasingly wanting to feel responsible and know what will happen to the product after its initial use.”   

This stance aligns with a broader trend of consumers increasingly prioritising environmentally responsible practices, and highlights where compromises must be made to achieve a healthy balance between environmental impact and consumer satisfaction. Mühling also advises against having “too many loose parts coming together,” and that it is important to “streamline” the product design process to facilitate easier and better recycling. 

When it comes to consumer expectations, Ansari acknowledges that instilling value in new packaging concepts such as refillable systems can be a significant challenge, as customers often associate value with the excitement of acquiring a brand-new product.  

“The consumer has a certain fantasy with getting something new, so it can be challenging to create value in refill systems. But there is a bridge to cross to get to the point where the consumer accepts using their existing compact or lipstick, for example, because it’s durable, beautiful, and still works perfectly. This is where a level of education comes into play. The paradigm has shifted from a simple product purchase where you ‘just have to take the cap off and go,’ to a more involved process that necessitates consumer education and understanding.” 

While the allure of novelty can pose a hurdle in convincing consumers to embrace refillable options, consumers are increasingly taking awareness to a more meaningful level. Ansari notes that different brands have different methods of managing refill systems, and this is where investment in R&D becomes pivotal, especially in developing biomaterials that can replace conventional plastics. 

Looking ahead 

Looking towards the future trends of sustainable packaging, there’s a strong prediction from Ansari that refills will take center stage, particularly with skincare’s refillable jars gaining traction over the last few years. She notes that the perception around refills has evolved, challenging the notion that they compromise on aesthetics or luxury, and that visually appealing refills, even with glass packaging, are now a reality, blending aesthetics with sustainability.  

“I think refills will become important because it’s a very effective way of eliminating extra, excess material,” she said. “Up until now, the challenge has been in making refills sexy and alluring to consumers, and now we’re seeing you can do attractive refills. It’s mostly been in skincare with refillable jars and lipstick, so I think this year and beyond, we’re going to see that trickle down to touch a wider range of products.” 

Lowe contends that the traditional model of packaging is seeing an evolution, with an increased focus on return schemes for empty products. “Companies are starting to introduce take-back-style processes whereby once the container is used, it can be returned to the sender, free of charge, for recycling, cleaning and re-use. While these return schemes are still in their nascent stages and face challenges related to costs, this is expected to be a key driver for companies looking to distinguish themselves in a competitive market where eco-conscious choices are becoming increasingly prioritised.” 

In addition, the role of packaging as a messenger for brands is set to become even more crucial. Packaging will always serve as the first point of contact for consumers, and this initial touchpoint presents a significant opportunity for brands to leverage sustainability as a powerful sales tool. Mühling notes the key lies in creating packaging that “not only entices but also captures” the attention of consumers amidst the myriad of choices on the shelves.  

The ongoing discourse around sustainable packaging within the cosmetics and personal care industry is helping move it towards making better, eco-conscious choices. Leaders like Mühling, Ansari, and Lowe echo a call for true innovation and action, urging the industry to reconcile sustainability with consumer expectations, aesthetics, and operational viability.  

Sustainability stands as one of the key pillars of the in-cosmetics Global show and this year, it will focus on championing a more eco-conscious industry by providing a pivotal platform for those looking to drive real, positive change. The Sustainability Zone will return, in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy, promising to help and inspire suppliers and manufacturers on their journeys to becoming more sustainable. A new addition to the show this year will be the Sustainability Zone Forum, a one-day programme that will delve deeper into practices that companies are employing throughout the lifecycle of cosmetic products, hosting leaders who will share and discuss new advancements that can help minimise environmental impact. Offshoot features on the show floor will also include the Sustainability Display and Presentation Theatre, sponsored by AAK, and the Sustainability Pavilion, powered by Farmforce. 

Stay tuned for the next article in our Sustainability Series looking at Greenwashing, Bluewashing and Honest Marketing. 

in-cosmetics Global, powered by KSM, returns from 16-18 April 2024 at the Porte de Versailles, Paris. For more information and to register to attend, visit here. 

in-cosmetics Global recently headed to Hotel Fauchon in Paris for the second of its newly created Co-Lab events. A unique gathering that united industry leaders and professionals from the cosmetics and personal care sector, the day focused on one of the sector’s biggest challenges – sustainability. While insightful presentations were given by Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at THG Eco, Experienced Director of Regulatory Affairs, Tiphaine Daubert Macia, and green chemistry expert, Dr Barbara Olioso, attendees also had the chance to take part and share their insights in group sessions.

The event served as a nexus for the professionals, fostering collaboration and dialogue and allowing attendees to digest the topics, brainstorm, and share insights based on their own experiences. Discussions explored some of the key challenges and topics in the wider sustainable cosmetics net, from formulation techniques and consumer beliefs to cost management strategies. It was a day where minds met and ideas flourished, laying the groundwork for crafting a more sustainable future.

The customer is king; understanding consumer mindsets and beliefs

The industry professionals touched on the idea that consumer beliefs and opinions when it comes to the products they use can sometimes be at odds with the science behind the ingredients and formulations.

For example, the professionals discussed product efficacy in relation to consumer beliefs. In the realm of consumer preferences, there’s a widespread, unwavering – albeit unconscious – belief that the frothier and foamier the lather of a product, the more effective it is. Foaming agents are only synonymous with the effectiveness of cleaning products in the eyes of consumers. In reality, this frothy façade does not equate to a more efficient or effective cleaning process. Despite the science, consumers don’t want non-foaming shampoos.

The same applies to many areas within personal care and cosmetics, where perceptions of products or ingredients can hugely drive sales or vice versa. Attendees discussed the power of consumer perception and how it fuels a fascinating phenomenon in the market and through the supply chain. For formulators, this means treading the thin line between appeasing consumer opinion, whilst using the most effective and sustainable ingredients and processes to create products.

The ‘natural vs synthetics’ debate

As the ‘clean beauty’ phenomenon has grown in popularity, consumers are becoming increasingly interested in the different ingredients and elements that make up their cosmetics. This has sparked a lively debate around the use of natural vs synthetic (or chemical) ingredients in cosmetics. For example, which is safer? Which is more effective? However, the reality and general consensus gathered at the event is that natural ingredients can’t be used alone.

Industry professionals at the Co-Lab event came to a unanimous agreement that a harmonious blend of both must be achieved.

One of the experts added if the world’s population turned to only natural ingredients, the resource “would be quickly depleted.” She went on to explain the awareness of the alarming impacts that palm oil has on the environment. “We all said palm oil was bad, so we replaced it with coconut oil,” she explained. “But natural cannot feed into everything. When this resource runs out, it will follow the same path as palm oil.”  The professionals discussed the questions posed around the sustainable credentials of products and concerns about overuse. And so, the cycle continues. Sourcing ingredients through a variety of mediums is needed to preserve our resources. Attendees delved into the merits and drawbacks of natural vs. chemical ingredients and processes, and how one will cease to exist without the other.

Sustainability from the comfort of your smartphone

Across the board, technology is driving change in the way that consumers interact with businesses and their products. More than ever, customers are seeking an easy and convenient shopping experience, and this is being fuelled by apps.

While there currently isn’t a single, unified system for communicating sustainability credentials to customers, a variety of new consumer apps are changing the landscape. Apps such as YUKA and Think Dirty allow consumers to instantly compare beauty and personal care products, decipher ingredients, and understand their potential health impact.

Our professionals discussed the benefits of these sustainability apps, as well as the concerns and potential pitfalls, highlighting a possible disconnect between the consumer and the science. Though the apps are becoming increasingly popular with consumers, and evidently very engaging, the professionals questioned the scientific prowess behind the app data. Georgios Stamatas, Scientific Director / Health & Nutrition – Cosmetics & Hygiene at SGS, commented that “While scientific evidence is important, most of time it is not enough on its own to impact consumer opinions and behaviours.”

Attendees debated the use of these apps, their concerns, and what it may mean from a wider industry perspective. On the one hand, it’s great news that many consumers are using the technology and resources available to educate and inform themselves about the sustainable credentials of products. However, there needs to be a unified, scientific approach on offer, which is easy to use and able to keep consumers engaged in the same way. Christine Ansari, VP of Development at CTK Cosmetics, advised while apps can be effective and reliable when it comes to assessing food qualities, caution should be exercised when applying the same approach to cosmetics.

Packaging; the unsung hero of sustainable cosmetics

The heart and soul of the beauty industry lies in ensuring a positive experience for consumers in the way their cosmetics products make them look and feel. As a result, packaging is the all-too-often forgotten element – quickly discarded by the consumer, and frequently considered nothing more than a marketing tool for brands.

However, as we move towards a circular economy, the spotlight will firmly be focused on recycling and industry waste. As such it is expected that sustainable packaging will be a must-have, not a nice to have. According to the British Beauty Council, 95% of all cosmetics packaging is thrown away after its initial use. To make matters worse, most of this is single-use plastic packaging that can take up to 500 years to decompose.

Our professionals discussed how plastic has always been king, but the industry often overlooks alternative materials, such as aluminium. According to Stanford University, producing recycled aluminium requires 95% less energy than making it from raw materials. It’s also considered “endlessly recyclable”, compared to plastics which can take centuries to decompose. One of the experts at the event commented that “before plastics, it was glass and aluminium” and everyone was in “better health”.

Unfortunately, it’s not necessarily as simple as just switching to more sustainable packing materials like aluminium. The professionals noted that not all materials are suitable for specific formulations, as some can adversely affect the shelf-life and stability of the final product.

Considering the wider picture of sustainable packaging, materials are by no means the only factor. An easy fix to reduce cosmetics waste and cut costs across manufacturing and distribution processes, is to simply reduce packaging size by removing empty space. Adam Lowe, Head of Sustainability at THG Eco describes how developing a smaller product can mean spending significantly less on transportation costs, as well as reducing emissions.

However, this can create challenges in producing the ‘premium look’, as consumers often associate larger packaging with luxury products. Not to mention, amid a global cost-of-living crisis and the rise of ‘shrinkflation’, consumers may be sceptical or mistrusting of products which appear to be smaller – even if it’s simply reduced packaging.

The push for greater transparency around sustainable ingredients and packaging is also causing logistical issues. Where brands are having to add additional information and credentials onto their packaging is often at direct odds with the needs to reduce packaging size.

Formulating a better future

Moving forward – and as part of the drive towards a circular economy – it’s essential the industry works as a collective to rewrite the narrative around beauty products, and in doing so, reframe the consumer mindset and current expectations.

However, we can only achieve this change in perception if brands prioritise simplicity and transparency in their communications with the customer. Today’s modern consumer typically desires the opportunity to be educated on their favourite products and brands. Therefore, beauty businesses must provide their customers with access to relevant scientific information, in an easily digestible format and platform. The industry professionals agreed that the key driver of change lies in unification and standardisation.

From a logistical perspective, brands and cosmetics organisations will increasingly need to consider all elements of their products. No longer will factors such as packaging be able to go relatively unnoticed – despite their environmental impact and potential for mitigation.

The success of this pioneering event in Paris, served as a poignant reminder that as consumers continue to make more conscientious product choices, brands in the cosmetics and personal care industry must adapt to meet these changing needs.

in-cosmetics Global returns from 16-18 April 2024 at the Porte de Versailles in Paris. For more information or to explore our Sustainability Zone, visit us here.

Join us on Tuesday 12 December as we explore natural ingredients, sustainability and anti-ageing with personal care ingredient suppliers from across the world. Register to watch live or on-demand.

PROGRAMME:

STIMULATING SKIN’S NATURAL HEALING, A PROMISING STRATEGY TO FILL IN WRINKLES (HALLSTAR BEAUTY)

COSMETIC PEPTIDES AND A POTENTIAL TFA BAN: MITIGATIVE ACTIONS TO PREPARE FOR THE FUTURE (SENN CHEMICALS)

(Tuesday 12 December)
9:40am, London time / 10:40am, Paris time / 11:40am, Warsaw time / 17:40, Beijing time / 01:40am, Los Angeles time / 4:40am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Senn Chemicals will explore how the industry can adopt sustainable manufacturing methods to bypass the use of TFA, facilitating the development of environmentally friendly and TFA-free cosmetic products.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

FROM CONCEPT TO COLLABORATION: INFUSING INNOVATION INTO FORMULATION TEAMS (COVALO)

(Tuesday 12 December)
10:30am, London time / 11:30am, Paris time / 12:30pm, Warsaw time / 18:30, Beijing time / 02:30am, Los Angeles time / 5:30am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

This session will be 100% practical and can be actioned immediately. Navigating innovation & ingredient trends, filtered to your needs creating your personal library of star ingredients and new concepts sharing ideas and collaborating with your team.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

MEET CONSUMER TRENDS WITH LAB-GROWN POWERHOUSE ACTIVE ECTOIN (BITOP AG)

(Tuesday 12 December)
13:50, London time / 14:50, Paris time / 15:50, Warsaw time / 21:50, Beijing time / 05:50am, Los Angeles time / 8:50am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Bitop AG will provide an overview of current anti-ageing consumer trends and explain how the multifunctional lab-grown active Ectoin® natural can help you to formulate highly effective, “clean-beauty” formulations, meeting the latest market trends.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR 

Please note that, should the above timings not suit you, all sessions will be available on demand from 13 December onwards.

The world’s leading personal ingredients show returns to Barcelona, Spain for the first time in eight years

16 January 2022: Sustainability is now top of mind for personal care and cosmetic ingredient suppliers, manufacturers and brands. Helping the industry to take the next step towards circularity, in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, will return to Barcelona, Spain this March with sustainability at the forefront of discussions.

Taking place at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via from 28-30 March 2023 – the first time back in the Catalonia capital since 2015 – more than 700 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are anticipated to showcase the latest ingredient suppliers. Among them, 80% of the top 20 global cosmetics ingredient suppliers will be in attendance. This includes BASF, Croda, Ashland, Solvay, Clariant, Momentive, Evonik, Lubrizol, Nouryon, Arxada (formerly Lonza Specialty Ingredients), Stepan Europe, Wacker, Shin-Etsu, Roquette, DSM and Symrise. Meanwhile, almost 60 new exhibitors will exhibit for the first time, including AntalGenics, Cellugy ApS, Escruder, Gravel AI, Innomost and Sequential Bio.

Zoning in on Sustainability

New for 2023, in-cosmetics Global will help attendees understand what it means to be truly sustainable. Since 2017, the Sustainability Corner feature at the event has grown in popularity, with an increasing number of attendees looking for suitable solutions. The new, dedicated Sustainability Zone will welcome exhibitors who can support suppliers and manufacturers in becoming more sustainable. Sponsored by FarmForce and in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence, the zone will cover every step of the supply chain from product planning, formulation and ingredient sourcing to packaging, manufacturing and transportation.

Elsewhere on the show floor, dedicated zones will focus on specialist topics – bringing together suppliers to help attendees discover the companies and solutions available to meet their unique challenges.  From the latest ingredient launches in the show’s popular Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland, to tailored product showcases in the Fragrance Zone, Lab Zone and Testing and Regulation Zone. Furthermore, the Sensory Bar and Make-Up Bar will return to offer inspiration for the next generation of new product launches, helping attendees discover exciting new formulations.

Brands and ingredients will also be on show by location. The event’s dedicated country pavilions will capture the trends and innovations showcased by suppliers, spanning France, UK, Brazil, Spain, China, Tunisia, South Africa and new to the show this year, Indonesia.

Also returning to the show to connect attendees with the latest products and brands – both established and new – will be the event’s dedicated R&D Tours. Following their  resounding success at in-cosmetics Global in Paris 2022, the tours will be open exclusively to R&D  professionals from cosmetic/contract manufacturers. The themes for this year’s tours include Microbiome – Advancements in skincare and anti-ageing (sponsored by Symrise), ‎Skinification (sponsored by Codif)‎ and Biotech (sponsored by Mibelle Biotechnology)‎. Also available in a digital and printed format for on-site visitors, this year’s Indie Trail will help attendees navigate the event with greater efficiency, creating new business opportunities.

Learning from industry experts

While the show floor will offer boundless opportunities to source the latest ingredients, the education programme at this year’s in-cosmetics Global will bring together leading industry experts to explore the more pertinent trends impacting cosmetics and personal care brands. Market intelligence will be explored in the Marketing Trends Theatre, where experts will be on hand to deliver the latest industry research and market analysis.

The Sustainability Corner Theatre, sponsored by AAK, will showcase the very latest developments and achievements in sustainable beauty, while Technical Seminars will offer inspiration for new product formulations and alternative solutions for existing projects. Finally, the popular Formulation Lab will return, sponsored by Brenntag, with a carefully curated programme to provide  exclusive opportunities for formulators and R&D specialists to get hands-on with the latest formulation techniques.

Speaking about the 2023 event, Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “More than ever, we’re seeing sustainability dominate conversations, with suppliers, manufacturers and brands all dedicating time and budget to understand how they can minimise their impact on the planet. As the conversation continues to expand, we’re delighted to announce the launch of our new Sustainability Zone at this year’s event. It will further expand the opportunities for attendees to discover solutions to every challenge facing their business. We’re counting down the days to return to Barcelona – our first Spanish event since 2015 – and the chance to inspire the industry to take the next step in the critical journey to circularity.”

in-cosmetics Global returns from 28-30 March 2023 at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via Conference Centre. For more information and to register to attend, visit the website.

For more information on exhibitor’s, visit the Exhibitor Directory.

ENDS

Premier Sponsor:

Cosmetics Business’ Julia Wray explains why algae is the source of the
hottest new cosmetic ingredients.

The group called algae includes some of the most primitive life on planet earth, covering a vast swathe of species, from the slick of slime on a wet rock to majestic 30m-tall giant kelp, whose ‘forests’ provide essential marine ecosystems.

(Sponsored Post)

This diverse group of organisms has long been utilised by humans for food, medicine, fertiliser and industrial products – and the beauty industry is no stranger to the power of the slippery stuff.

Not only are algae generally packed with vitamins and minerals, amino acids and micro-nutrients, but they also boast good sustainability credentials. Photobioreactor-grown microalgae in particular have a great environmental profile, as they may be mass produced in a sustainable way without altering the ecosystem.

It’s little wonder that algae are having a ‘moment’ in beauty. According to forecaster WGSN, coastal-foraged ingredients are a hotly tipped trend for 2022, with skin care and personal care products that include seaweed extracts, kelp, sea fennel and algae tipped to become mainstream must-haves.

The ingredient edit

But what is out there, ingredient wise, for cosmetics makers to take advantage of?

Microalgae specialist Algaktiv offers Algaktiv UpLift, a purified fraction of barrier polysaccharides, designed to lift, tighten and firm the face and body, which upcycles previously discarded material from the process used by Algaktiv’s sister company Algalíf to obtain nutritional astaxanthin. The product is derived from the polysaccharide-rich cell walls of ‘stressed’ Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae, native to Iceland.

From Laboratoires Expanscience there is Algaenia, a soothing active skin care ingredient inspired by one of the least hospitable environments on earth. Algaenia is produced from Chlamydomonas acidophila, a microalgae originally found in extremely acidic waters in volcano’s crater lakes. This protects sensitive skins from overreacting to chemical stresses by inhibiting the key markers involved in inflammation.

Snow Algae Powder is an active skin care ingredient from Mibelle Biochemistry derived from the Alpine-dwelling Coenochloris signiensis microalgae. It works by stimulating the Klotho longevity gene and the AMPK energy sensor that together lead to improved cellular defences, oxidative stress resistance, cell detoxification and repair to slow down the skin’s ageing process.

For scalp and hair care, meanwhile, Lubrizol Life Science’s AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic (HSHO) algae oil comes from microalgae sourced from tree sap. The bio-oil contains over 90% of omega 9 in a highly-stable, liquid-based formula that is said to protect the hair fibre from breakage.

For another good sustainability story, Clariant’s Epseama is upcycled from seaweeds that are not considered ‘good looking’ enough to be used as premium food products, but which still have a valuable composition. The Laminaria japonica-based product is said to address the three main causes of ageing – chronoageing, inflamm’ageing and photoageing – to reduce wrinkles, improve moisturisation and reduce spots on mature skin.

BASF’s Seanactiv, meanwhile, harnesses Fucus vesiculosus fucoidan to limit visible signs of ageing and fatigue around the eye area. Due to tidal activity, Fucus vesiculosus spends equal amounts of time underwater as it does on rock or sand, making it resistant to different conditions and temperature variations.

I certainly look forward to seeing what other algae-derived and inspired ingredients are due to launch at in-cosmetics Global 2022.

For more ‘blue beauty’ ingredients and information on other novel cosmetic materials, visit www.cosmeticsbusiness.com

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In a changed world, the post-pandemic state of mind has evolved, and along with it, the needs and wants of society. Paul Ramires discusses with us the roles that both the personal care industry – and specifically Quimivita –  play in this new landscape.

1. The pandemic seems to have shifted the collective mindset towards the ‘new natural’ – an eagerness to return to more holistic, natural, and sustainable ingredients (and finished products). Why do you think that is, and what opportunities does that present to the personal care industry?

If lockdowns have done anything, it has been to break the confirmation bias that blinds us for much of our lives. Although we only believe what we want to believe, when we can witness the opposite with our eyes, at that precise moment, our brain starts to agree with reality.

And the reality has been that the cessation of all human activity has revealed images such as cities with uncovered skies, animals walking through the streets and much, much time to think.

Sustainability is not a fact, but an awareness, and the combination of both factors has resulted in a drastic increase in the concern for consuming products that care for the environment.

I think that given the high level of stress generated by the fear instilled by COVID, a great opportunity from the cosmetics industry is to contribute to solving that need: wellness.

The good thing about wellness is that it can be approached from many fronts, but without a doubt, the one that is causing the most complaints today (and where many remains to be innovated) is clean beauty.

2. The launch of your latest ingredient, Vita Naturgel^®, is a remarkable achievement in terms of bypassing a big environmental concern right now, which is microplastic. How important was it for Quimivita to create a plant-based thicker to replace its synthetic counterparts?

One of the difficulties that cosmetic formulators often encounter is that natural ingredients allow them to put “clean beauty” claims on their products, but they do not have to be as effective as their synthetic alternative.

Vita Naturgel® is one more product from our line of speciality functional ingredients that fit into the clean beauty category and that have also been designed thinking not only of what the final consumer wants, but also of the formulators.

Our R&D department is constantly looking for new ideas to ensure that the new ingredients we develop can present a story linked to nature, while their effectiveness can be demonstrated in formulas.

This latest release combines a storytelling that has its origins in the ocean (more specifically in a very select variety of carrageenan and alginate).

In addition to being 100% biodegradable, this product also contributes to the community spirit, being cultivated in an artisanal way.

3. Vita Naturgel^® is a water-soluble, natural hydrocolloid extracted from certain species of red seaweed, Rhodophyceae, and brown algae. How did Quimivita discover this unique raw material?

I cannot talk about the origin of this ingredient without first mentioning our CSO, Manuela Bermudez.

Manuela is a person who not only has a long career in the cosmetics industry, which allows her to have a global vision of the sector, but also always seeks that innovation and efficiency go hand in hand.

In the case of Vita Naturgel®, the challenge was to find a thickener that was not only of natural and sustainable origin, but also retained its properties when produced.

By turning our attention to the sea, we found what we were looking for.

4. Aside from the sustainability factors, what are the other major benefits of replacing thickening agents that contain synthetic ingredients and microplastics with Vita Naturgel^®?

If, in addition to putting natural claims on your cosmetics, you want the consumer to notice an extra touch of naturalness in its application, Vita Naturgel® is made for you.

Vita Naturgel® is gelling, thickening, stabilising and has bioactive attributes.

This plant-based thickener allows you to improve the organoleptic characteristics of your products while providing smooth and creamy textures in emulsions and surfactants systems.

5. In the name of innovation and remaining future-focused, what’s next for Quimivita

We have several projects underway and although we prefer not to reveal much information about them, what we can say is that we are more aware than ever of the imperative need for the industry to turn towards more sustainable solutions and of the challenges these represent for cosmetic brands.

You can look forward to visiting Quimivita at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event on stand V65

The Formulation Summit 2021 (29-30 November) was a fabulous event which I had the great honour to moderate. It was not just about cosmetic trends, science and regulations, but also about the cosmetic industry’s resilience and the people behind it, from the speakers and the attendees, to the sponsors (CompLife and CLR Berlin) and even the event organizers who managed to pull through despite the challenges. Even though it lasted for just two days, a lot of content was covered, and in this article I will give a summary of what I believe were the key “take aways” of the event. (1)

COVID CONSUMERS AND INDUSTRY TRENDS – “MORE FOR LESS”
Consumers have kept on using on cosmetics during the pandemic, especially with a mental health focus. They also expect more out of the beauty products they use, and this makes multifunctional cosmetics very trendy and appealing. Examples of this trend are haircare products with de-stressing benefits, and colour cosmetics with additional skincare properties.

Ironically, the industry has ended up embodying the “making more for less” mind set because of the disruption experienced, from staff to ingredients, packaging etc. The raw materials shortage has also shone a light on supply chains, making local supplies more appealing, even if they are not as cost effective. After all, a reliable supply is a very valuable commodity, and if it comes with transparency it is even more valued, so it can add to the credibility and authenticity of a beauty product in a competitive market place driven by consumers with an increasingly stronger sense of ethics.

HAND GELS, “NOT EASY PEASY”
Antibacterial hand gels would seem so simple to make; mix together water, alcohol and a gelling agent and off you go. But they are far more complicated than mixing a few ingredients together; from safe manufacturing conditions to product efficacy, compatible packaging and regulatory compliance, all of these are complicating factors. The same formula can also be sold as a drug, a biocide or a cosmetic, depending on the product claims, which in turn will determine the type of testing and regulatory requirements, and these result in different budgets and timelines. So, a few words about a hand gel can have quite a domino effect on the development cost, as well as the time to get it compliant and where it can be sold.

REGULATORY UPDATES
The UK Cosmetic Regulations initially started in sync with the European ones, however there are divergences ahead, especially regarding the approach to raw materials safety evaluation, i.e. UK REACH. This may be a great challenge to the animal testing ban as, at the moment the UK responsible body does not seem keen to purchase the data already available in Europe. As a result of this divergence, DHA will be permitted at levels above 10%, whereas microplastics, D5 and D6 restrictions will not be implemented in the UK work program for 2021/2022 , which will include PFAS instead.

In the coming spring, the UK will also enforce a plastic tax on packaging that contains less than 30 % PCR plastic. This tax will not apply to pharmaceutical products.

A few months ago a new bill, called the Cosmetic Supply Chain Transparency Act of 2021 (2), was published in the US Congress, giving cosmetics manufacturers and beauty brands the power to request more information about residues present in raw materials as well as safety data to make safer products.

The Ecolabel standard has been revised to include stricter rules regarding Palm Oil derivatives sourcing.

PACKAGING AND PLASTIC POLLUTION, “WHO IS RESPONSIBLE?”
Everybody is aware of pollution caused by plastic packaging, however who is responsible for sorting this out and how do we go about it? Some people believe the key culprit is consumer’s bad behaviour which need to be punished in order to change their polluting habits. Other people believe it is an industry problem, being and call for packaging design that allows for easy recycling ,and for new business models that uses plastic waste as a commodity to manufacture other finished products according to a circular model. The packaging challenge is ultimately everyone’s problem, starting with brand owners, involving the packaging designers, environmental regulators, moulders and packaging manufacturers and finally consumers. Everybody needs to get on board if we are to solve this challenge.

THE NEURO-COSMETICS TRIANGLE: “BRAIN, SKIN, AND EMOTIONS”
A simple movement of our face muscles, like smiling, can induce the release of endorphins, the happy chemicals that make us feel relaxed and even look younger. The skin is the largest sensorial organ and it contains a complex peripheral neuronal system; positive emotions can also be triggered the other way round, by applying cosmetics formulated with hedonistic criteria that can affect the mood. Formulations developed according to this neuro-cosmetic approach can achieve quite interesting results. In fact a fascinating consumers study showed that a product with a good hedonistic profile was favoured over a product with better efficacy data, showing how consumers greatly value the way a cosmetic product makes them feel. This is a relatively new cosmetic frontier, that of neuro-cosmetics, and it carries great innovation potential; but it also has the concomitant danger of being used to mislead consumers in new ways, leading to “neuro-washing”– in order to trick consumers into buying unnecessary products. So, we need to use this new approach wisely.

REFERENCES AND NOTES
1. https://www.in-cosmetics.com/ summit/en-gb/programme/ formulation-summit-programme. html#/sessions
2. https://www.congress.gov/ bill/117th-congress/house[1]bill/5539?s=1&r=18.

I spend a lot of time with Gen Z in my role as a teaching fellow of Chemical Formulation Design at Canterbury University. As I myself am from Gen X, it’s always interesting seeing the world through their eyes.

Though there’s been a general increase in the awareness of sustainability practices in the world of health and beauty, for my generation it’s been something of a learned perspective. The cool thing about Gen Z is that this perspective is their own.

What has really stood out to me with these young and enthusiastic future movers and shakers of our planet, is not the urge to find recyclable, reusable packaging but how to minimize consumption of products and other material things in their lives.

And that led me to thinking about the products we are designing and formulating for the future. Sustainability is not necessarily about packaging of well-known formulations. What about the ingredients themselves?

Recently our 2nd-year students were issued an assignment to create a household or agricultural product. Most of the class created a waterless condensed prototype cleaning product which could be activated by adding water and would do the job of five products. An inspired idea!

We have so many products to choose from when we go to the shops and new variations of existing things launching every other day. Overwhelming is the word that comes to mind. I think efficiency is something that everyone can be excited about.

Is it the beginning of the end of the 12-step beauty regime? Or the introduction of a cleaning product to replace the 10 in our cupboards?

Enter multifunctional formulations, reconstituted beauty, waterless beauty, dry powder skincare, water-activated beauty, and household concentrates.

There are obvious benefits with these solutions: they’re lighter to ship, there’s less packaging, they use low-energy manufacturing, they’re preservative-free, it’s a DIY product, and – as one of my students pointed out – “why pay for water when it’s free?!”

But of course, there are some implications to the overall viability of the production of products in this way which may not suit the smaller production houses.

The products are likely to be more expensive to manufacture as larger volumes of raw ingredients will be required. And there’s the risk of inhalation with dry products too. It’s possible that we will be limited to what products we can manufacture in this form, depending on raw ingredients and the viability of the finished goods. As always we await to see the consumer demand, and the feedback as we enter this new category.

Below is a list of the latest commercial products available, and also some of our ingredient supplier prototypes getting ahead of the curve.

A leader in this category is OWA HAIRCARE

Formulating with: sodium cocoyl isethionate, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, triethyl citrate*, hydrolyzed rice protein, maltodextrin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, ribes nigrum bud extract*, pelargonium graveolens flower oil*, eugenia caryophyllus (clove) leaf oil*, cananga odorata flower oil*, sodium phytate, sodium dehydroacetate

NUDE & CRUDE SHOWER POWDER

Ingredients (for Uplifiting Lemongrass Shower Powder): Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Kaolin, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Coco Glucoside, Avena sativa Kernel (Oatmeal) Flour, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Herb (Lemongrass) Oil, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice.

BLUELAND

Citric Acid, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Benzoate, Algin, Polyethylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

an-hydra MICROBIOME CLEANSER – Sustainable Skincare simplified

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate*, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate*, L-Ascorbic Acid, Sea Silt*, Maltodextrin*, Lactobacillus Ferment*, Oryza Sativia (Rice) Starch*, Mannitol, Microcrystaline Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Collodial Oatmeal*, Bentonite Clay*, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate*, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil*, Sodium Hyaluronate*, Aloe Barbadensis, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract *Ecocert.

Azelis Eco Balance Cleansing Tablet/Powder using Corn PO4 PHB and Maisita 9040

Wash time for hair and skin will never be the same. A unique formulation utilising green powdered mild surfactants, combined with Corn PO4 PHB and Maisita 9040 allowing tablet formation or free-flowing powder without inhalation issues. The water-free formulation removes the unnecessary transportation of water and equally minimises packaging, significantly reducing the carbon footprint. The consumer then has the flexibility to use the product on the go, or at home with ease.

BASF Exfoliating Powder to Foam using Plantapon SUS and Jordapon SCI Powder 

Formulation can be found by following the title link above.

CRODA Powder Serum

A powder serum that easily melts on skin when applied with a facial toner. Apply on wet fingers or directly onto the face and gently massage in. This one-of-a-kind formulation contains HydrolactinTM 2500, a hydrolysed milk protein that nourishes the skin. SolaveilTM CTP-1 is an inorganic UVB filter that provides true transparency on skin and also acts as a sensory modifier.

Ingredients that will be in demand for this new category will be starches, clay, milk powders, dry actives and freeze-dried botanicals.

That shortlist itself is testament to the innovation in this area. Efficiency and travel-friendliness are things that come to mind. (Perhaps in time for when we’re freely able to travel again!) There’s also the attraction of being able to mix your own products (i.e. add water and off you go) at home at your own leisure.

But, coming back to my original thought: it’s our planet that we need to keep in mind with the creation of more and more products. Saving water in the formulation and production of products across this category is an exciting prospect. Along with the well-known and accepted changes to packaging efficiencies in the market, this is the kind of innovation that reminds me why I love this industry!

Enjoy this article? We think you might enjoy ‘The drive for innovative self-care with naturally-sourced ingredients from New Zealand’

(Sponsored content) By Evonik

Portfolio transformation towards quantified sustainable attributes is key for us. Closed product circles are difficult to achieve as most of the personal care products will still end up in the environment with or without treatment. Therefore, we are continuously working on ingredients with a low environmental burden during processing and application. On continuous basis we conduct lifecycle assessments of ingredients and make representative assessments of final consumer formulations to identify the most important levers and options to reduce carbon footprint along the value chain.

Using resources efficiently we place sustainability at the center of everything we do. From our sourcing, production and innovation processes, to capital expenditure and M&A decisions. All our activities which help keep us on the right path to achieving our sustainability vision consider the three pillars of sustainability: For us this means: planet, people and products.

PLANET

With these clear strategic ambitions, we can focus our work and better track our progress towards achieving these goals. But it also serves as a constant reminder that there is still a lot of work ahead. We are not there yet. For example, we are committed to achieving 50% carbon-neutral operations by 2025. But this is not enough, and we want all our operations to be carbon-neutral. We know this is a challenge, but we are ready and have set the target of achieving this by 2050. 

PEOPLE

As part of civil society, we assume sociopolitical responsibility that goes beyond our business and have introduced several programs to support this. As part of “Together for Sustainability” – a social and environmental assessment program within the chemical industry, we carry out continuous assessments at our own sites and those of our suppliers. 

PRODUCTS

Designing products for environmental compatibility is what the industry now need to work on, and the major prerequisite is to do so with transparency on product origin, constitution and efficiency. This is why we have launched the CAREtain® toolbox. It provides our customers with the most important characteristics that they need to evaluate and achieve their individual sustainability targets.  

Dialog across the value chain is key for the responsible production of personal care products. Please log in to Evonik’s intoBeauty® portal and use the information given as a starting point for quantification. We are keen to work with our customers to help them identify risk and leverage this knowledge to improve our common environmental impact.

Register for in-cosmetics Virtual to meet Evonik at their virtual stand.