In an era marked by heightened emotional stress and environmental pressures, prioritising wellness and self-care has become an essential part of daily life.

In fact, 80% of global consumers now prioritise health as a lifestyle, with wellness-driven products increasingly being incorporated into self-care routines (Global Wellness Institute, 2023).

This shift is also reshaping the beauty industry, as wellness becomes a shared priority in skincare. Moving beyond products that focus solely on external appearance but addressing both external and internal stressors in the pursuit of longevity.

Wellness isn’t being recognised as just a passing trend, it’s becoming a lifestyle. 62% of consumers now seek skincare products that not only improve their appearance but also enhance emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023).

This growing demand for products that deliver both physical and mental health benefits together has led to the rise of wellness-driven skincare, which is pushing the boundaries of beauty and wellness.

Wellness-driven skincare is expected to dominate the market, reaching $200 billion by 2030 as consumers prioritise their overall health (Statista, 2023).

While regional regulations traditionally define skincare (under cosmetics) as products aimed solely at improving the physical appearance of the skin, this view is evolving, especially with technological advancements and ingredient efficacy.

Consumers are actively looking for solutions that go beyond just the surface of their skin. They want products that align with mindful, self-care rituals that support overall well-being and deliver internal benefits.

As a result, this beauty-wellness intersection is transforming the industry and formulators have new opportunities to innovate and meet this evolving demand.

The growing understanding of how ingredients affect skin function, including stress-induced skin concerns and the mind-skin connection, is pushing formulations beyond the surface. Wellness-driven skincare is creating new avenues for formulators to explore.

The Science Behind the Mind-Skin Connection

The mind-skin connection is more than just a buzzword, it’s scientifically studied. Chronic stress triggers the release of cortisol, a hormone that disrupts the skin barrier function, increases inflammation and accelerates ageing by breaking down collagen (Chen & Lyga, 2014).

A 2022 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that stress-induced cortisol can lead to dryness, sensitivity and even conditions like acne and eczema.

This growing understanding of how emotions impact skin health is driving demand for products that address both external and internal stressors.

For example, neurocosmetic ingredients like peptides have been shown to reduce stress-induced skin tension, offering a dual-action approach to skincare (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019).

Market Momentum: By the Numbers

The global wellness industry is valued at $5.6 trillion (2023), growing at a 10% CAGR, with skincare as a major driver (Global Wellness Institute).

Consumers now look for skincare products that also improve emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023), while adaptogen-infused product launches have seen significant growth in recent years, reflecting the rising demand (In-cosmetics Global, 2023).

In the Asia-Pacific region, where wellness-driven skincare is particularly popular, the market is projected to grow at an 8.5% CAGR through 2030 (Statista, 2023).

South Korean brands are leading the charge with products that combine hydration, anti-ageing and stress-relieving benefits.

Regulatory Considerations

As the demand for wellness-driven skincare grows, brands must balance innovation with compliance as regulatory compliance becomes increasingly important.

Claims like “stress-relieving” or “mood-boosting” must be substantiated, pushing formulators and manufacturers to invest in clinical trials and comply with regulations like EU 655/2013 to avoid being classified as medicinal products.

Furthermore, aligning with ISO 16128 standards for natural origin claims is essential for building consumer trust and meeting sustainability expectations.

The Feel-Good Factor: Self-Care as Empowerment

Modern consumers view skincare as a form of self-care, a daily act of mindfulness, promoting both skin health and emotional balance.

For formulators, this means understanding the growing mind-skin connection and pairing ingredients with calming or energising properties with tactile textures in their formulations.

This shift is creating new opportunities to innovate and aligns with the “emotional beauty” trend, where 74% of beauty consumers prefer “skin wellness” products over traditional anti-ageing claims (BeautyMatter, 2024).

Star Ingredients in Wellness Skincare Formulations

As wellness becomes a key driver in skincare, ingredients like adaptogens, neurocosmetics and aromatherapeutic ingredients are taking center stage. These ingredients help the skin respond to environmental and emotional stressors, which are increasingly linked to skin concerns.

Adaptogens

Already becoming a global stress-busting powerhouse, adaptogens are ingredients that help the skin adapt to stress, reduce inflammation and support long-term resilience.

In skincare, adaptogenic ingredients like Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) and Rhodiola Rosea are gaining popularity, with clinical evidence supporting their anti-inflammatory and oxidative damage-reducing properties (Panossian et al., 2021).

EU regulations (EC No 1223/2009) ensuring efficacy claims like “calming” or “resilience-boosting” are substantiated with robust clinical evidence. This reinforces consumer trust and ensures compliance with regional regulatory standards.

Neurocosmetics

Neurocosmetics aim to improve skin health while also enhancing emotional balance, relaxation and mental well-being through sensory experiences. These multifunctional ingredients interact with the skin’s sensory receptors, which can positively affect mood and reduce stress levels.

Neurocosmetics can trigger a positive response in the brain while supporting skin health, creating an essential part of wellness skincare.

For example, peptides can help reduce stress-induced tension, while Cannabidiol (CBD) is known for its skin-calming properties (Baswan et al., 2020).

Aromatherapeutic Ingredients

Mood-enhancing essential oils like chamomile extract and lavender oil provide aromatherapeutic benefits, reducing anxiety and promoting relaxation.

These ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into skincare (within recommended dermal limits) to boost mental health through sensual olfactory stimulation and enhancing the overall self-care experience.

The Future is Ingredients Bridging the Gap Offering Both Skincare and Wellness Benefits

The future of skincare is undoubtedly intertwined with wellness, with the growing mind-skin connection becoming a central focus for formulators and manufacturers.

As science and consumer demands evolve, the industry has an exciting opportunity to innovate, creating products that go beyond surface-level beauty and address overall health and well-being.

References:

Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169.

Baswan SM, Klosner AE, Glynn K, Rajgopal A, Malik K, Yim S, Stern N. Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Dec 8;13:927-942. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S286411. PMID: 33335413; PMCID: PMC7736837.

Panossian AG, Efferth T, Shikov AN, Pozharitskaya ON, Kuchta K, Mukherjee PK, Banerjee S, Heinrich M, Wu W, Guo DA, Wagner H. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress- and aging-related diseases. Med Res Rev. 2021 Jan;41(1):630-703. doi: 10.1002/med.21743. Epub 2020 Oct 25. PMID: 33103257; PMCID: PMC7756641.

Truong VL, Jeong WS. Red ginseng (Panax ginseng Meyer) oil: A comprehensive review of extraction technologies, chemical composition, health benefits, molecular mechanisms, and safety. J Ginseng Res. 2022 Mar;46(2):214-224. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2021.12.006. Epub 2021 Dec 17. PMID: 35509821; PMCID: PMC9058829.

Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066.

Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702. PMID: 34451799; PMCID: PMC8400021.

Ebrahimi H, Mardani A, Basirinezhad MH, Hamidzadeh A, Eskandari F. The effects of Lavender and Chamomile essential oil inhalation aromatherapy on depression, anxiety and stress in older community-dwelling people: A randomized controlled trial. Explore (NY). 2022 May-Jun;18(3):272-278. doi: 10.1016/j.explore.2020.12.012. Epub 2021 Jan 9. PMID: 33454232.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors?

This article will look at some of the latest innovations in peptide technology and formulation to yield even better results for today’s discerning consumer. Not sure of the difference between peptides, proteins and collagen, or how they should be used in cosmetic formulas? Watch this video for some great background information and then learn more about the peptide innovations we’re seeing in the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #1: In silico and AI development

Research and development of cosmetic ingredients has utilized Artificial Intelligence (AI) and ‘in silico’ methods (meaning computer simulations or models) to generate peptide solutions like never before. Using AI and computer models, raw material suppliers like Lipotrue are creating optimized peptides, and combinations of peptides, to target specific enzymes and biomarkers to obtain their results.

Their latest launch, SP(AI)3 is turning heads by using such unique technology to create a hexapeptide that targets the 3 markers involved in sebum synthesis, pore size and inflammation for outstanding anti-acne results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #2: Cyclic peptides

Peptides are the combination of amino acids into – usually – chains. While still extremely small, these chains are typically linear and contain a specific subset of amino acids to yield a desired action. Cyclic peptides are a new technology used by cosmetic suppliers that sets these amino acids into a continuous ring, stabilised by hydrogen bonds, to give advanced activity, stability and efficacy.

An example of cyclic peptide formation aimed at counteracting the impact of wrinkle formation at various times in the day has been launched, again, by Lipotrue. Their material Poptide shows they are one of the key leaders in peptide innovations and technology for the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #3: Crystallisation

Peptides often come highly diluted in solutions to make them water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic formulas in the cool down stage of processing. Crystallisation, however, provides a super-concentrated powder form of the peptide that can easily be solubilized in a water loving solvent (like glycerin) and then added to formulas. Crystallisation involves taking a highly saturated solution where individual peptides come together and form a crystal-like concentrate.

Using patented crystallization techniques, Active Peptide Company have created their eye-catching blue GHK-Cu Copper Peptide powder, for advanced anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #4: Hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides

Peptides used in cosmetic formulas are either:

• tripeptides or hexapeptides that have been synthetically produced;
• extracts rich in certain peptides, where the efficacy of the extract can be directly traced back to the presence of the proteins/peptides present in the plant material; or
• hydrolysed proteins.

Of these, the use of hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides has been largely under-rated – until now. Hydrolysed proteins and hydrolysed silk are essentially the original protein broken down into peptide chains to make them small enough to be biomimetic with the skin and hair, and easy to incorporate into a cosmetic formula.

The original protein is far too large and insoluble to be of any use; but when it is in the hydrolysed form it can be delivered easily through personal care. In this form it provides the peptide building blocks that repair hair and skin and provide a protective, breathable film against further damage. The results are noticeable straight away, yet there is no residue.

Hydrolysed proteins are also highly substantive, meaning there are certain grades that are particularly resistant to wash off and have proven efficacy in rinse off cosmetic formulas. Don’t underestimate the power of these peptide sources – while not deep acting like tripeptides and hexapeptides, their activity at the surface of the skin or hair is incredibly important for barrier repair, maintenance and instantaneous results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #5: Multi-peptide combinations

Peptides are only needed in very small amount in cosmetic formulas, which is a good thing, because they are usually quite expensive. You only need a relatively small input of these materials to get great results, but they can add to the cost of a cosmetic formula quite significantly.

It is interesting to see that some of the more luxury brands, where performance is absolutely essential, are using combinations of peptides. They may describe their product as containing a peptide ‘cocktail’, or as a peptide ‘blend’, or even multi-peptide serum like in this example.

Consumers will readily pay more for a product with clinically proven efficacy, and these blended peptide formulas can often yield outstanding multi-faceted results from the tiny but effective peptide molecules they contain.

Keep up with peptide innovations in your cosmetic formulas…

While I’ve summarised the latest trends for you, it is up to you to speak directly with your suppliers and check out the Innovation Zone at your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition. You’ll always see the best and latest innovations there, and dozens of suppliers with peptide technology, and perhaps the next best thing, at these amazing events.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

in-cosmetics Global has announced the details of its Sustainability Zone, a comprehensive space designed to help brands reduce environmental impact and enhance their sustainability credentials.

Sponsored by AAK and in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy and Ecovia Intelligence, the zone will provide invaluable opportunities to explore green solutions across four key areas; the Forum, Display, Theatre, and Pavilion; all of which will serve as a catalyst for learning, networking, and discovering sustainable solutions.

The zone will be led by leading organisations, including AAK, The Carbon Trust, Provital, the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety (ICCS), Givaudan, NATRUE, Syensqo, Carbonwave, and more, featuring interactive sessions, exhibits, showcases, and expert presentations.

The Sustainability Zone Forum, sponsored by AAK and curated by The Green Chemist Consultancy, will feature a two-day programme of expert-led discussions on green chemistry, regulatory compliance, life cycle analysis and ethical ingredient sourcing. Speakers will explore ways to drive sustainability improvements, minimise environmental impact and address unmet industry needs, offering valuable insights into sustainable practices across formulation, packaging and beyond. This year, the Forum will be located on the show floor, ensuring better accessibility for attendees.

Speakers from The Carbon Trust will share insights into ways the beauty industry can update its practices to align with net-zero targets and avoid greenwashing in ‘Navigating Net Zero: Communicating with Credibility in the Context of the EU Green Claims Directive.’ Delving into the benefits of upcycling, Judit Camargo, Founder & CEO of Roka Furdada, will explore the antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-acne properties of Sotabosk, a lignin-based cosmetic ingredient derived from upcycled biomass byproducts, in the session, ‘Roka Cirkle Sotabosk: Redefining Sustainability Through Upcycling.’

The interactive Display area, sponsored by AAK, will spotlight product advancements in sustainable personal care. This space will feature display pods showcasing sustainable projects and initiatives as well as responsibly sourced raw materials that deliver high performance and a reduced environmental impact, with exhibitors such as Oleon NV demonstrating the benefits of recyclable and reusable esters produced by enzymes. Visitors will have the opportunity to explore the latest innovations in sustainability and gain insight into the industry’s most forward-thinking solutions from suppliers like Provital, Nouryon, AAK Sweden and many more.

The Sustainability Theatre will provide a platform for expert insights, with leading voices from AAK, Lanxess Deutschland, Beauty Kitchen and others discussing eco-design and transparent, responsible sourcing in ingredient formulation, circular economy strategies, and how reducing Scope 3 emissions can make a significant difference to a brand’s environmental impact.

Kicking off the Theatre programme on day one, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Managing Director of The Green Chemist, will explore the transformative role of sustainability in cosmetics development in ‘Regenerative Beauty with Green Chemistry,’ highlighting the importance of eco-design in formulation, ethical ingredient sourcing, and sustainable packaging, offering insights into how circular design strategies and groundbreaking materials can shape a greener, more equitable future for beauty. Other speakers, such as Jacques Courtès, Senior Account Representative, Transparency-One and Dr. Sophie Roelants, COO and Co-founder of AmphiStar will delve into the finer details of how brands can use data and innovative new ingredients to meet net-zero targets and preserve the environment’s natural biodiversity.

Courtès from Transparency-One will present ‘Mapping your Supply Chain and Tackling Worldwide Regulations,’ exploring how industry leaders effectively manage supply chains and social risks and track progress toward ESG goals. The session will demonstrate how businesses can stay compliant with evolving global regulations by efficiently collecting supplier documentation, certifications, and necessary compliance data.

In ‘Sourcing & Valuing Low Carbon Products,’ Kelly Gilroy, VP Commercial Sustainability at Univar Solutions, will explore the growing market demand for low-carbon products and the crucial role of Product Carbon Footprint (PCF) data in helping brands achieve their sustainability goals.

Mélanie Marquis Schiffer, Sustainability Project Manager at Symrise, will discuss the company’s commitment to sustainability and innovation in, ‘Integrating Planetary Boundaries into Portfolio Management and Driving Innovation Toward a Sustainable Future.’ The planetary boundaries framework defines the ecological limits within which humanity can safely operate, while preserving natural resources and ecosystems. Symrise utilises this framework to highlight how companies can strive to reduce carbon emissions, conserve biodiversity, and ensure responsible sourcing of raw materials.

Dr. Roelants from AmphiStar will lead ‘From Waste to Wonders: Bringing Performing and Affordable Biosurfactants to the Market,’ discussing the creation of microbial biosurfactants from locally sourced waste and side-products, such as supermarket food waste, from the agri-food industry. These circular biosurfactants serve as drop-in replacements for traditional ingredients, without competing with food production or impacting land use, significantly reducing the carbon footprint of finished products.

The Sustainability Pavilion will be a hub for connecting with experts and suppliers in sustainable beauty practice. Covering consultancy, accreditation, packaging, distribution and life cycle analysis, companies like Ecovia Intelligence, Fairglow and Natrue will showcase solutions that enhance transparency and reduce environmental impact across the supply chain.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “Sustainability has been a core part of the beauty industry for a long time, and it’s essential to keep pushing for new solutions that benefit both consumers and the planet. Whether through innovative technologies, alternative solutions, or new ways of sourcing and creating ingredients, the Sustainability Zone offers an expansive hub for the personal care community to explore these new, creative ideas. It also helps ensure the industry is prepared for evolving regulations and policies while supporting companies in making the necessary changes to stay ahead.”

in-cosmetics Global, presented by KSM, returns from 8-10 April 2025 at RAI, Amsterdam. For more information and to register to attend, visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global.

LAUNCHES, TRENDS AND MORE

If you are keen to learn about the latest ingredient launches, formulation expertise or trends in personal care, check out our range of live events as well as live and on-demand webinars. Enjoy these face-to-face or in the comfort of your home, lab or office!

NEXT LIVE EVENTS COMING UP

With events taking place around the world in 2024, take this opportunity to meet the personal care ingredient community face-to-face…

Dates:

• in-cosmetics Global, Amsterdam, 8-10 April 2025
• in-cosmetics Korea, Seoul, 2-4 July 2025
• in-cosmetics Latin America, Sao Paulo, 23-24 September 2025
• in-cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, 4-6 November 2025

Visit the portfolio website

LATEST WEBINARS (ON-DEMAND)

Balancing sustainability and performance in beauty products is no small task. This series of webinars on sustainable beauty features experts from The Green Chemist Consultancy, Euromonitor International and Via Packaging. Get a preview of what to expect at the in-cosmetics Global 2025 Sustainability Zone!

Consumer Trends and Industry Responses to Sustainable Beauty
Innovations in Sustainable Beauty Packaging

WEBINARS ON-DEMAND

From the microbiome to cannabinoids, J-beauty ingredients or the joy of plumping, check out our wide range of on-demand webinars going back several years. 

View previous webinar sessions and tune in on-demand 

Led by top founders, scientists, and industry leaders, the programme will equip attendees with insights into the latest trends, innovations, and regulations, helping them stay ahead in the competitive cosmetics sector.

The programme is split into a number of different sessions focusing on diverse elements of the industry. These include Marketing Trends presentations, which give attendees access to valuable market intelligence on industry and consumer trends. The Formulation Lab®, sponsored by Brenntag, provides insight into new formulation techniques in a practical, hands-on, fully equipped laboratory.

The Technical Seminars, sponsored by Azelis, explore technologies, specifications and scientific research that support product claims from suppliers’ innovative concepts. The Sustainability Zone Forum & Theatre, sponsored by AAK and curated by the Green Chemist Consultancy, explores novel approaches to sustainable sourcing, eco-friendly formulations, and sustainable certifications. On the final day, the new Testing and Regulatory Forum will address the latest updates in compliance, efficacy testing, and regulatory updates.

Marketing Trends

This year’s marketing trends presentations will provide the very latest insights on cosmetic industry trends, patterns, and intelligence from a host of market-leading analysts, researchers, scientists, marketing experts. Emilie Hood from Euromonitor International will look at ‘Innovation in Personal Care’, focusing on how beauty brands can position their benefits, learn to effectively communicate to consumers and know what’s next from a trends-perspective.

Nikola Matic from Kline + Company will examine how to navigate the challenge of emerging trends, particularly identifying the key issues shaping the industry, their impact on the market and the innovative strategies and solutions that have proven successful in overcoming them. Marc Pissavini, Research Director, Sun Care at Coty Monaco will speak on ‘Photoprotection Methods: The Future of Sun Care’, and how the future of sun care is being transformed by innovative trends that prioritise both health and convenience.

There will also be several panel discussions, debates and fireside chats looking at some of the trending topics in the beauty industry.

Laura Gamboa from Natura Bissé International will participate in a panel discussion titled ‘Embracing Wellness: How Beauty is Being Redefined’, looking at the blurring of lines between the beauty and wellness categories and identifies essential trends beauty brands can’t afford to ignore. Meanwhile, Francis Taloen from Kline will host a panel highlighting future predictions on digital transformation and the era of the connected consumer.

For attendees keen to learn more about dermocosmetics, there will be a debate featuring experts in the field including Selma Carvalho from Galderma, Laura Peslebre and Carine Blondin from Teoxane SA, Dr Kristin Neumann from MyMicrobiome AG, Brian Freedman from Evolved By Nature, Faiza Hussain from NEX Skincare & The Skin Shrink and Romun Leaovitavat from Medico Wellness Co Ltd, who will delve into the science-driven evolution of skincare. From the increasing awareness of skin health to the pivotal role of advanced ingredient selection and rigorous testing, the panel will discuss how the industry is redefining skincare through science and innovation.

Formulation Lab®

The Formulation Lab® will feature a variety of experts giving interactive guidance on formulating for different applications and formats, led by award-winning cosmetic scientist, Lorna Radford. Sponsored by Brenntag and supported by IKA, sessions in the lab will include a look at ‘Deep Hydration Triphasic Hair Serum’, expertly developed to hydrate and smooth hair. Led by Natalie Garwe from Brenntag Holding GmbH, the session will empower participants with the knowledge to create advanced hair care formulations.

Urmi Dhamnaskar from Kobo Products Inc will show participants how to make a fluid, lightweight, high naturality, water-in-oil sunscreen formula using mineral filters from Kobo’s extensive portfolio. Attendees will also learn how to incorporate colour correcting and other visual effects into skin care formulas.

Experts from OQEMA AG will also be on hand to demonstrate how to create liposomes using their simple, robust and resource-friendly formulations. Isaac Adjei Safo and Alisa Kozyrkina will highlight how their Melosome groundbreaking carrier system simplifies the formulation of liposomes without the need for specialised equipment. By using glycine and phospholipids, it effectively transports active ingredients into the skin and is completely natural, skin-friendly, biodegradable and microbially produced.

Technical Seminars

The programme will feature 120 Technical Seminars, sponsored by Azelis, presenting high-level insights on innovative and emerging technologies, specifications, and concepts backed by scientific data to enhance product development strategies.

This year’s seminars will feature experts from Provital who will be unveiling a new endophyte-based active acting at multiple cellular levels for balancing, anti-acne and well-ageing claims; Croda Beauty Actives will share insights on how to reduce premature ageing by improving emotional resilience with  the introduction of an innovative cosmetic ingredient to reduce psychological stress; and Roelmi HPC will showcase a new advanced ingredient, SEIDOTECH LUX, developed using microbial fermentation and created to target eye area revitalisation.

Incospharm Corp will deliver a session about hybrid exosomes as next-gen skincare ingredients, looking particularly at the cosmetic benefits of these ingredients, while Sytheon will examine a revolutionary approach to organic UV filters, alleviating concerns of short and long-term toxicity in humans and significantly reducing environmental impact. Experts from LipoTrue will give a full profile of hyaluronic acid, inspired by marine biotechnology for holistic efficacy, from the surface to the depths of the skin. The team will unveil a breakthrough development, where marine origin meets innovation for visibly renewed and plumped skin.

Sustainability Zone Forum & Theatre

Covering a spectrum from green chemistry and engineering to quantitative metrics that guide design choices and performance measurement, the Sustainability Zone Forum – sponsored by AAK and curated by The Green Chemist Consultancy – has been created to share and discuss new advancements that drive sustainability improvements, and minimise life cycle impact, as well as unmet industry needs.

This year’s Forum will feature high-level speakers, with experts Paula Ospina, Davina Naidoo and Simon Retallack from The Carbon Trust, kicking off day one with a session on ‘Navigating Net Zero: Communicating with Credibility in the Context of the EU Green Claims Directive.’ The interactive discussion will explore research into the net zero targets and plans of the world’s largest beauty companies, and, how by focusing on the carbon footprints of products and communicating transparent, recognisable environmental claims, a company can stand out from its competitors and empower consumers to make informed purchasing decisions.

Javier Arrieta from INABATA France will look at upcycled eco extracts as a sustainable solution for cosmetics, focusing particularly on a groundbreaking microwave-assisted extraction process to create a new range of sustainable high-efficiency upcycled extracts with different levels of hydrating, energising, anti-inflammatory, protecting and antioxidant properties. Erin Hill from the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety (ICCS) will speak on how the ICCS is addressing regulatory needs in cosmetics by collaborating with stakeholders, leveraging existing resources, and developing accessible tools for robust animal-free safety assessments. Hannah Melia from Citrine Informatics will show how companies can use AI to reformulate sustainably, highlighting how minimal data can power AI and how the best product experts are using AI to gain insights into chemistry and examine creative ideas before lab testing.

This year’s Sustainability Zone Theatre will feature a series of exciting, informative, and cutting-edge presentations, including a session from Dr Barbara Olioso from The Green Chemist Consultancy looking at the transformative potential of sustainability in cosmetics development, emphasising the importance of eco-design in formulation, ethical sourcing and sustainable packaging. Elena Genesca Pont from AAK will present on ‘Aligning Sustainability and Beauty Trends with a Natural Silicone Alternative’ while Dr Sophie Roelands from AmphiStar will discuss bringing performing and affordable biosurfactants to the market. Marie Ollagnier from Seppic will explore the importance of water efficiency management for a more sustainable future, while Susanne Andersson Hayes from Swedish Algae Factory will look at ‘Harnessing the Oceans Microscopic Armor for Tomorrow’s Technology.’

NEW: Testing & Regulation Forum

The Testing & Regulation Forum, in partnership with Skinobs, will launch its inaugural edition with a keynote session on skin longevity, led by Philippe Papadimitriou from Cosystems. The first half of the day will focus on testing, while the latter half, held in collaboration with the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI), a trade association representing European manufacturers of synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients, will be dedicated to regulation. Informative and educational sessions include insights by Dr José Luis Mullor Sanjosé from Bionos Biotech on ‘Establishing a Skin Microbiome Benchmark for Enhanced Skin Longevity Research.’

Irene Cotogni from Neotron S.p.A will then give a safety and cosmetic allergen analysis of plant based active ingredients while Elisa Esteve and Inma Gamero from Cosmeservice will discuss ‘Beauty and the Law: Key Points to Consider When Selling Internationally in 2025.’

The day will conclude with a regulatory panel discussing how companies can navigate global regulatory challenges from ingredients to end products. Featuring experts including Mojgan Moddaresi from Personal Care Regulatory, Mike Sohn from REACH24H, Andrea Maltagliati from EFfCI AISBL, Nico Shaw Núñez from the CTPA and Sanjana Balani from Potion Inc, the session will delve into key regional regulatory frameworks, ingredient compliance and sustainable packaging solutions. With insights spanning Europe, China, Korea, the UK, India and the Middle East, the discussion will provide a comprehensive overview of market-specific challenges and opportunities.

Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global commented: “The 2025 in-cosmetics Global education programme promises to be our most dynamic and influential edition yet. Curated by industry experts for industry experts, this year’s programme is focused on three pivotal pillars: innovation, sustainability and science. These core themes are driving our industry forward, and through insightful sessions led by thought leaders, we’re equipping professionals with the insights and tools needed to shape the future of beauty and personal care.”

in-cosmetics Global, presented by headline sponsor, KSM, returns from 8-10 April at the RAI, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. For more information and to register to attend, visit here. The post Scientists, brands, and researchers to speak at in-cosmetics Global 2025 first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/news-category/in-cosmetics-global-2025-key-speakers/feed/ 0 22899 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/mastering-the-journey-of-upcycling/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/mastering-the-journey-of-upcycling/#respond Mon, 17 Feb 2025 08:45:54 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22890 (Sponsored Content) At Gaia Tech, our mission is to transform agrifood byproducts into high-value ingredients. In collaboration with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors, we address the growing demand for sustainable and effective raw materials in the cosmetic industry. From Research to Market: Gaia Tech’s Approach to Industry Challenges Initially, we developed a methodology to transform […]

(Sponsored Content)

At Gaia Tech, our mission is to transform agrifood byproducts into high-value ingredients. In collaboration with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors, we address the growing demand for sustainable and effective raw materials in the cosmetic industry.

From Research to Market: Gaia Tech’s Approach to Industry Challenges

Initially, we developed a methodology to transform olive oil production sidestreams into high quality ingredients:

• Phenoliva Active: Derived from olive pomace, this antioxidant extract is rich in hydroxytyrosol, a bioactive compound known for its anti-aging or soothing properties. Comprehensive testing has been conducted on its composition, toxicology, and stability, including final formulation examples. Clinical studies are currently ongoing and data is available upon request.
• Phenoliva CleanChar: An activated olive biochar initially developed as a detoxifying agent for face masks, the powder has since gained interest as a pigment. Compositional and toxicology data is available, as well as formulation examples like beauty mask and mascara.

One of the significant challenges in promoting upcycled ingredients is ensuring they match the performance of conventional materials. For Phenoliva Active, overcoming the hurdles of color and odor standards was crucial. We are tackling these challenges using advanced filtration and encapsulation technologies to optimize these organoleptic properties. In the process of refining and customizing ingredients, various industry partners have underscored our ability to meet high-performance benchmarks, and praised Gaia Tech’s antioxidant technology as “the best they have tested so far”.

Upcycling Innovation: A Proven Process Tailored to Cosmetics

Building on our proven process to develop upcycled ingredients – from sourcing raw materials and conducting compositional analysis, to pilot production trials and forecasting production capacity – we expand this approach to other valuables sources of natural ingredients like apple pomace or grape marc. We offer two types of collaborations to partners:

• Upcycled Ingredients: The olive-based ingredients are available in small quantities.
• Development Services: Ready to partner up to bring innovative ingredients to the market.

We already started looking into a number of local and international sidestreams for new ingredients. Let us know what function you are looking for to develop innovations.

Looking Ahead: A Suitable Partner For Upcycled Ingredients

Gaia Tech provides expertise in raw material sourcing, chemical extraction and analysis, prototype production and formulation, engineering design and upscale preparation. With fully equipped laboratories and state-of-the-art pilot production facilities in Bern and Monaco, we are uniquely positioned to collaborate with cosmetic brands, manufacturers, and distributors seeking to expand their upcycled ingredient and product portfolios.

Are you curious about the ingredients we are working on and their transformative effects on final products? Visit us at In-Cosmetics booth 12C07, explore our offerings at www.gaiatech.ch, or reach out directly at hello@gaiatech.ch.

About the Authors:

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla Phd

Teresa González de Chávez Capilla earned a PhD in Environmental and Bioanalytical Chemistry. As a Senior Scientist with 10+ years of experience, she is specializing in chemical analysis and extraction. She is also experienced in formulating personal care products.

Samuel Bühlmann

Samuel Bühlmann holds a Master’s degree in Business Information Systems and has a track record of working with startups across various sectors. In 2023, he joined Gaia Tech as a co-founder, where he currently leads the communication and business development initiatives.

 

The post From byproducts to beauty: Mastering the journey of upcycling first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

The same concept applies to sourcing cosmetic ingredients: what may seem the same material from different suppliers could vary significantly enough to render a batch unstable or unsuitable, and turn a high performing product into nothing special.

You also can’t make certain formulas perform the way you want them to without sourcing from the correct supplier, and sometimes they may be a little tricky to find.

So, let’s look at the do’s and don’ts of cosmetic ingredient sourcing to help you find the contacts you need, and source exactly the right materials, to make sure your formulas turn out great, every time!

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #1: Expect to need multiple suppliers

This is the most important aspect of creating unique and high-performing cosmetic formulas. I often speak to those new to the industry and they are dismayed when they need to contact 4 or more suppliers to get the ingredients they need for just 1 formula.

But this is completely normal! While there may the occasional time where you can source everything you need from just a few suppliers, it is more common for you to need to go to at least 4 different cosmetic ingredient suppliers (and sometimes many more) in order to get the exact materials you need.

Remember to keep economies of scale in mind: where you can use multi-functional or core functional materials – such as humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives and antioxidants – in multiple formulas, then this is a great idea. However, there will be many actives where you’ll just have to source all required options to ensure you have a unique formula.

Watch this webinar where I talk about needing multiple suppliers and building your supply network.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #2: Expand your network

The next most important step is to build your supplier network. Visit in-cosmetics trade shows, your local society conferences and your local cosmetic supplier days and make sure you meet the different distributors, and who they represent.

That way, when you need a certain material, you know exactly which distributor you should contact for information and a sample.

Remember, the suppliers for different materials varies by your location, so its important that you are finding your nearest distributor or material representative to get the answers and support you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #3: Be specific with trade names

A rose by any other name may have smelt as sweet to Shakespeare, but a material by its INCI name could be any of a dozen different grades to various suppliers.

When sourcing cosmetic ingredients, you need to be specific about trade names, because this could make a huge difference in a formula.

For example, Lubrizol suppliers various carbomers and acrylates, so you can’t just go to them and ask for ‘carbomer’ or an acrylate cross polymer because:

• Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 all have the INCI name ‘carbomer’ but with different play times and after feels;

• Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 all have the INCI name ‘acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer’; however the Carbopol range have very different skin feels to the Pemulen range and suit very different products. Carbopol Ultrez 20, for example, suits clear foaming formulas and gels; Carbopol Ultrez 21 suits styling gels and hydroalcohol gels; while the Pemulen polymers are best for creams and lotions depending on the viscosity required of the finished product.

In other words, just using a ‘carbomer’ or polyacrylate based on INCI name could dramatically alter the skin feel and stability of the finished product… hence using trade names is essential when speaking with suppliers to get the exact grade of material you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #4: Avoid e-bay and Amazon

If you want quality cosmetic ingredients, then you need to speak directly with your suppliers.

While it might seem like a good idea to trawl various sites for the best price, you could be purchasing a very wrong material (read why: revisit tip 3), or not get crucial information for regulatory and quality reasons (read why: go to tip 5).

Your cosmetic formula and finished product must have the required batch to batch consistency, which starts with quality ingredients, and that means going direct to reputable suppliers.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #5: Avoid suppliers who don’t provide good paperwork

Make sure your supplier can provide at least the following information, accurately and promptly:

• The INCI name, compositional information and CAS number. The INCI name and CAS number should match what is listed on the CosIng website.

• A recommended input rate appropriate for cosmetic formulas based on testing and/or regulations.

• A technical data sheet providing processing and sourcing information sufficient to use the material in a suitable way to ensure stability in a finished formula, and so you can determine how natural or synthetic the material is.

• If it is an active ingredient, the technical data sheet should also provide suitable efficacy data and clinical results to determine the best input and product form for you to achieve the same results.

• An MSDS with all safety, compositional ranges and disposal information.

If a supplier can’t provide you with this information, then you should look for another supplier.

If you follow these 5 tips, you’ll soon be in touch with the right suppliers to source quality cosmetic ingredients every time.

You’ll also find the best cosmetic ingredient suppliers will be in touch with you when there is a new launch or innovation so you can stay ahead of the pack with the latest cosmetic formulation launches.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The do’s and don’ts of how to source cosmetic ingredients first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients/dosandontscosmeticingredientsourcing/feed/ 0 22863 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/competition/valentines-day-competition-did-you-find-your-match-at-one-of-our-shows/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/competition/valentines-day-competition-did-you-find-your-match-at-one-of-our-shows/#respond Mon, 03 Feb 2025 18:47:14 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=22804 We are matchmakers – do you agree? This Valentine’s Day (Friday 14 February), we’re celebrating the connections made at in-cosmetics shows. Did you meet your significant other, lifelong business partner, or even your best friend at one of our events in Europe, Latin America or Asia?  We’ve asked you to share your experience – whether […]

I was inspired to write this column during my vacation on the Gold Coast in Australia, during a tram ride, where surfers and fans of this discipline begin and end their day with their feet exposed to different surfaces and aggressions such as the materials of public transportation, extreme temperature changes, contact with arid surfaces, exposure to sun, sea water, among others.

I think that our feet are an important part of our well-being and it’s here where our care and cosmetic routines should begin.

The feet concentrate our key energy points in the body. They support our weight, they carry us everywhere. With them we learned to walk, run, dance and have fun! They are our musical connection to the earth! Therefore, they deserve the best cosmetic treatment.

According to the Fortune Business Insights portal, the global foot care market had a value close to USD 3.84 billion in 2024 and has a projection of USD 4.05 billion in 2025 and USD 6.25 billion by 2032, with a CAGR of 6.41% during this period.  Below we will see the most representative trends for 2025.

• FFF Effect: From face to feet – This is one of the most interesting concepts that we are going to see in 2025 in this category. The migration from facial technology to foot care has begun and it is exciting to see how vitamins, hyaluronic acid, fillers, liposomes and skincare active ingredients in general are beginning to take center stage in new concepts.

• Foot skin barrier: The barrier trend also reaches this category. “Relief” is beginning to be an important claim for foot products and we are seeing new scientific publications on how some cleaning products can alter the microbiome of this area and consequently accelerate dehydration, peeling and sensitivity of the area. This year we will see very interesting new research on how to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier in this area and also a boom in the use of active ingredients such as ceramides, lactic acid, panthenol, occlusive emollients, natural oils, probiotics and ferments. Foot repair is the new black.

• Foot sunscreens: These products have two objectives, sun protection and benefits such as sand resistance, ultra hydration, reduction of redness, ultra softness, skin protective film, resistant to water and salt and, most interestingly, with protective agents against microbiotic imbalance for people. that keep your feet exposed.

• Microbiotic protection: Products with antifungal and antibacterial protection are in trend, we see ingredients such as zinc, tea tree oil, pre and postbiotics that help protect and repair the barrier function.

• Customized foot care: We are entering the era of democratization of foot care through more personalized treatments that are focused on specific needs for specific benefits such as ultra hydration, anti-aging and sensitive skin care.

• Products for diabetic feet: According to the IDF (International Diabetes Federation) 10.5% of the adult population (20 to 79 years) has diabetes. This is a population segment that represents a great opportunity for innovation for the cosmetics industry. This disease causes a decrease in blood flow to the foot, which produces many problems at the dermal level. Products for proper foot cleaning, gentle exfoliants for corns and calluses, moisturizing creams, masks, refreshing gels and in general products to prevent peeling, irritation and skin problems in the feet are on the rise.

• Feet masks: The boom in masks now reaches the feet in a variety of formats, we are seeing innovation in textures and properties, for example, masks in sock format with various benefits such as exfoliating, nourishing, ultra-hydrating and others, masks for cracked skin, silicone veils -like, sleeping masks for feet, butters, regenerating heel masks, balms for heels and toes, among others.

• Multifunctional: This category also enters the skincare simplicity and minimalism in routines concept, as there are very interesting multifunctional launches, such as masks and treatments for feet, heels, hands and elbows, all in one. We can see new concepts such as deodorants for the whole body, which can be applied to the armpits, chest, thigh, intimate area and feet.

• Inclusive pedicure: Most of new launches and concepts are universal. The new polishes, cuticle products, moisturizing and relaxing creams, aromas, textures and finishes in color designs are for everyone and this year they will cover ideas such as nail art, pearl effect, icy nails, milky effect among others. Minimalist pedicure is also trending, with simple designs and natural concepts. We also see new equipment and methods that guarantee a smoother and longer lasting polish effect. Healthy maintenance is essential.

• Athleisure beauty: Foot care for athletes is essential to ensure maximum performance. Therefore, this trend is one of maximum specialization. In athletes, skin care is related to dermatological aspect, which includes avoiding any type of alteration in the nails, the appearance of calluses or hyperkeratosis, and biomechanics. Cosmetic podiatry is a developing discipline.

• Foot detox: These procedures have gained popularity as a cleansing route for foot rejuvenation and aim to improve circulation, antioxidant effect, relax, remove toxins and impurities and improve skin health. We will see a boom in materials such as clays, activated carbon, bentonites, epson salts, essential oils, ginger, rosemary and turmeric among others. Night patches to remove toxins and impurities from the feet are also becoming trendy. Ionic foot baths today are an interesting concept by using equipment that releases ion systems that neutralize toxins in the skin. Scrub detox is another booming concept using ingredients such as sea salt, coffee and citrus derivatives.

• Pampered feet: In the wellness trend, the relaxation concept of is a main driver for this category linked by practices such as meditation, aromatherapy and mindfulness.

Feet are the new hands… Just as your hands show beauty and harmony, your feet are the key to elegance in every step you take, and cosmetics are the best allies to take care of them.

 



Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

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