How polyphenols may help to protect your skin from damage by UV radiation.

Laboratory, clinical and epidemiological studies have shown that solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation can induce various skin diseases, such as premature ageing and cancers. Excessive UV radiation exposure induces skin diseases and skin disorders caused by the induction of inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage. The use of chemopreventive agents, such as plant polyphenols, is gaining attention.

Chemopreventive are agents that can inhibit, reverse or retard the harmful effects caused by exposure to UV radiation. A wide variety of polyphenols and phytochemicals, most from dietary supplements, have a photoprotection effect on the skin. In this article I will talk about some polyphenols photoprotective effect, such as green tea polyphenols, grape seed

proanthocyanidins, resveratrol, silymarin and genistein, as well as the action of these components on cutaneous inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage. The polyphenols use in sunscreen is seen as promising as the use of these substances in the treatment to some skin diseases.

Polyphenols are a large family of naturally occurring plant products and are widely distributed in plant foods, such as, fruits, vegetables, nuts, flowers and barks. Important and common polyphenols sources are onions (flavonoids); cocoa, grape seed (proanthocyanidins); tea, apples, and red wine (flavonoids and catechins); citrus fruits (flavanones); berries and cherries (anthocyanidins) and soy (isoflavones). These polyphenols contribute to vegetables and fruits beneficial effects.

Topics covered:

● Ultraviolet radiation and skin;

● Polyphenols and skin photoprotection;

● Carcinogenesis inhibition;

● Sun protection effect;

● Anti-inflammatory effects;

● Antioxidant effects;

● Green tea polyphenols: DNA damage repair;

● Polyphenols performance in the UVB reduction induced inflammation.

Ultraviolet radiation and skin

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, possessing an area of ​​approximately 1.5 – 2.0 m². The skin function is to protect the body organs by acting as a barrier against the chemical and physical agents that can damage the body. Exposure to solar radiation is a crucial factor to the development of many skin disorders such as wrinkles, skin dryness, blemishes, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and skin cancers.

Solar radiation can be divided into three segments: UVA, UVB and UVC. The most harmful are UVA and UVB. UVB radiation can penetrate the skin, traversing the epidermis and penetrating the dermis. It can induce adverse biological effects such as oxidative stress, DNA damage, premature skin ageing and multiple effects on the immune system. It is also a tumor initiator and promoter. Although the skin has an enzymatic and non-enzymatic defense system against these biological responses, excessive exposure to UV rays

overwhelms and depletes these defense systems, leading to the development of various skin disorders, such as cancer.

UVA is the largest UV radiation spectrum. UVA penetrates deep into the epidermis and dermis of the skin. It has been shown that excessive exposure to UVA rays can lead to benign tumors formation as well as malignant cancers. UVA exposure can induce singlet oxygen (a kind of electronically excited oxygen) and hydroxyl radical generation that can cause damage to macromolecules cells such as lipids, proteins and DNA. UVA is an expressive source of oxidative stress on the skin, which causes photoaging.

Polyphenols and skin photoprotection

Lately the interest in the use of natural plant products has grown, including polyphenols. They are mainly used to prevent skin damage induced by UV rays, such as the risk to develop skin cancer. Polyphenols have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory properties and it can be used as a chemopreventive agent in many skin disorders.

Chemoprevention is a cancer control based on the use of natural or synthetic chemicals that are capable of suppressing, delaying or reversing carcinogenesis process. In this respect,

chemopreventive can act to control the risk of cancer. And in addition, the use of chemopreventive is a practical solution to a control problem difficulty, as it is possible for an individual to change their diet and lifestyle in combination with a skincare routine, preventing damage from sun exposure. Studies have shown the efficacy of some natural polyphenols, such as green tea polyphenols, silymarin, and proanthocyanidin from grape seed. These components acted against UV radiation induced inflammation, oxidative stress, DNA damage and suppression of immune responses.

Carcinogenesis inhibition

Non-melanoma skin cancer, such as basal cell carcinoma and epidermoid carcinoma, is the most common malignant neoplasm in humans. Studies have reported that solar radiation is the main etiological agent in the skin cancer development. Several animal models have been used to study the anti-photocarcinogenic effects of phytochemicals, such as polyphenols. It has been found that polyphenols oral administration from green tea resulted in skin protection against tumorigenesis (a tumor process formation).

An extract taken from green tea leaves, which consists in polyphenols,mixture was able to inhibit UVB-induced tumorigenesis in rats. Topical treatment in hairless mice with green tea polyphenols or epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG, flavonoids) in a hydrophilic ointment was able to inhibit the development of UVB-induced tumorigenesis.

Proanthocyanidins from grape seed orally used in hairless mice were able to inhibit photocarcinogenesis, as well as tumors incidence. Proanthocyanidins intake from grape seed also prevented papilloma to carcinoma malignant progression. Resveratrol is found in the grapes bark, peanuts, as well as in red wine and blackberries. The topical resveratrol application inhibits the tumor formation induced by UVB, as well as the progression. Silymarin, a flavonoid found in milk thistle (Silybum marianum) also showed anti-photocarcinogenic action. Silymarin topical treatment in hairless mice inhibited the tumor incidence. Silibinin, a major component of silymarin, has been shown to inhibit photocarcinogenesis when used topically or orally.

Action Mechanism and Polyphenols Molecular Targets

Sun protection effect

Most natural polyphenols are pigments, usually yellow, red or purple, and are capable of absorbing UV radiation. Therefore, through topical treatment polyphenols can prevent radiation penetration into the skin. The radiation that polyphenols can absorb includes the entire UVB spectrum, and part of the UVA and UVC spectrum. The natural polyphenols ability to act as sunscreen can reduce inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage.

Anti-inflammatory effects

Erythema-induced UV, edema and hyperplastic epithelial responses are inflammation signs and play a crucial role in the cutaneous tumors development. The cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) expression induced by UVB and the subsequent increase of prostaglandin (PG, a lipid substance that acts as a mediator in pathogenic processes, as well as in inflammatory responses) metabolites (intermediate products of metabolic reactions) production is a keratinocytes characteristic response to acute or chronic exposure to UV radiation. COX-2 is an enzyme induced and rapidly expresses when there is inflammation, and generates new prostaglandin metabolites from arachidonic acid.

The COX-2 expression has been linked to the pathophysiology inflammation and cancer. Many studies have demonstrated COX-2 over expressed in chronically UVB-irradiated skin, as well as in UVB-induced premalignant lesions, as well as basal cell carcinoma and skin squamous. Photocarcinogenesis studies have shown that oral polyphenols administration from green tea inhibited UV-induced skin edema as well as erythema. Topical treatment with green tea polyphenols prior to exposure to UV radiation reduced the UV-induced hyperplastic response (cell turnover) as well as an enzyme myeloperoxidase (a key enzyme in the production of reactive oxygen species) activity. It also reduced the inflammatory leukocytes number in the skin.

Topical treatment with epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) also demonstrated similar effects to green tea polyphenols, since EGCG are applied prior to exposure to UVB radiation, also reduced the number of inflammatory leukocytes as well as the myeloperoxidase activity. EGCG topical application has also resulted in the prostaglandin metabolites production inhibition, including PGE2, PGF2α and PGD2, which play a key role in the inflammatory development and proliferative cutaneous diseases.

Skin exposure to UV radiation increases the number of proinflammatory cytokines, which increases inflammatory responses. The increase in proinflammatory cytokines, such as tumor necrosis factor (TNF) -α and interleukin (IL) -1β and IL-6, contribute to the stimulus tumor process. This effect would result in the tumors appearance and their rapid progression.

Green tea polyphenols oral administration reduced the level of proinflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiated skins. Polyphenols from green tea also reduced the levels of cell proliferation biomarkers in UV-irradiated skins, such as proliferation nuclear antigen (PCNA) and cyclin D1 (a protein that acts on the cell cycle, and when enhanced contributes to tumor genesis).

The inhibitory effects from green tea polyphenols on these biomarkers inflammation on UV-irradiated skin show their anticarcinogenic role.

A study was conducted to analyze the effect of EGCG on UV-induced inflammation in hairless mice. EGCG oral use has been shown to increase skin tolerance, so that the minimum dose required for the erythema induction has been increased. Also, there was disturbance in the epidermal barrier and skin damage inhibition.

In another study, a green tea extract topical administration before and during treatment with psoralen and UVA (a treatment combining plant derived substances psoralens with exposure to UVA radiation administration) has been demonstrated that was able to reduce hyperplasia, hyperkeratosis (enlargement of the superficial layer of the skin), erythema and edema. These in vivo studies, conducted in animal and human models, demonstrate the anti-inflammatory protective effects present in green tea polyphenols.

The in vivo effects of other polyphenols, such as resveratrol, grape seed proanthocyanidins and silymarin have also been examined in studies using animal models. Topical or dietary treatment with proanthocyanidins from grape seed and/or silymarin inhibited edema induced by UVB radiation, erythema, inflammatory leukocytes infiltration and myeloperoxidase activity in an animal model.

Silymarin has been shown to inhibit UVB-induced COX-2 expression, as well as the prostaglandin metabolites generation, factors that are considered tumor promoters in the skin. Silymarin has also been shown to inhibit the ornithine decarboxylase expression, an enzyme required for the synthesis of polyamine (molecules related to cell proliferation and differentiation), which plays an important role in the cutaneous tumor formation induced by UVB.

Resveratrol topical application prior to UVB irradiation resulted in the inhibition of hyperplastic responses, leukocyte infiltration, as well as COX-2 and ornithine decarboxylase activity. Therefore, part of the anti-photocarcinogenic effect present in these polyphenols can be explained by the inhibitory effect they have, minimizing UVB-induced inflammatory responses.

Antioxidant effects

The skin has its own antioxidant system to deal with UV-induced oxidative stress. However, excessive exposure to UV rays can overload the skin’s antioxidant system, resulting in various skin diseases, immunosuppression, premature skin ageing and cancers.

Green tea polyphenols have been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation (a radical-generating chain reaction). Topical treatment in animal and human models with ECGC prior to UV exposure reduced nitric oxide (free radical) production and hydrogen peroxide (oxidant), as well as leukocyte infiltration. It has been shown that infiltrating leukocytes are nitric oxide major source and hydrogen peroxide, which results in the state of oxidative stress. Although reactive oxygen species aid in the destruction of microorganisms, excessive and uncontrolled production can damage skin tissues, resulting in many diseases.

However, the application of EGCG may have a beneficial effect, improving the damage induced by UVB radiation, through the ability to reduce reactive oxygen species generation. Treatment with EGCG in UVB-irradiated skin has also been shown to reduce hydrogen peroxide and nitric oxide in the epidermis and dermis production. This treatment also inhibited UV-induced lipid peroxidation in the epidermis, in addition to protect the antioxidant defense enzymes. One study has shown that an aqueous extract of green tea has a potent ozone-depleting effect, and blocks UV-induced damage in the DNA, which, at least in part, explains the inhibitory photocarcinogenesis effect on green tea. Overall, this information suggests that green tea may play an important role in the reduction of UV induced oxidative stress, as well as aid in the prevention of various skin disorders, such as premature ageing.

The oxidation of some amino acid residues, such as lysine, arginine and proline, lead to the carbonyl derivatives formation that affects the nature and proteins functions. The carbonyl groups presence in proteins is one reason for the occurrence of oxidative stress and protein damage. Skin exposure to UV radiation resulted in an increase carbonyl level in proteins. In separate animal model studies, topical treatment with EGCG, grape seed proanthocyanidins and green tea polyphenols has been reported to inhibit protein oxidation induced by UV irradiation. The protein oxidation inhibition induced by UVB can result in the photodamage reduction, and more specifically, it can prevent premature skin aging.

An in vitro study demonstrated that treatment of keratinocytes with EGCG inhibited the intracellular release of hydrogen peroxide, as well as the inhibition of UVB induced oxidative stress. Similar effects were also noted with the use of epicatechin-3-gallate (EGC), which worked by eliminating free radicals in photodamaged keratinocytes by UVA and UVB radiation. EGCG formulations containing creams or green tea polyphenols were developed, and their photoprotective effects evaluated.

An exceptionally high photoprotective effect on green tea polyphenols and EGCG was observed as it protected the skin from oxidative stress induced by UV radiation. Topical treatment with EGCG, or oral with green tea polyphenols, inhibited the destruction of antioxidant defense enzymes such as catalase, glutathione peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, and glutathione.

A sunscreen containing green tea extracts was evaluated in a survey. The researchers reported that sunscreen provided significant protection against biological events associated with photoaging and photoimmunology. Similar to green tea, proanthocyanidins from grape seed, dietary supplementation, exhibited chemo-preventive effect. Grape seed proanthocyanidins intake in acute or chronic UVB pelts was able to inhibit the destruction of glutathione peroxidase, catalase and glutathione. It also inhibited lipid peroxidation, as well as hydrogen peroxide and nitric oxide in an animal model skin.

In one study, the grape seed proanthocyanidins dietary administration was able to inhibit the expression of natural proliferation nuclear antigen (PCNA, a protein associated with proliferative activity), cyclin D1 (an important regulator of the cell progression cycle, which is linked to cancer development and progression), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS, isoenzyme capable of producing nitric oxide for a long time, which can generate inflammatory processes) and COX-2 in the skin.

In another study, the effects of oligomeric proanthocyanidins on melanocytes and the melanogenesis process were observed. According to the results, it was suggested that oligomeric proanthocyanidins have a photoprotective effect on melanocytes, in addition to the sequestration of intracellular reactive oxygen species. Resveratrol is also a potent polyphenolic antioxidant.

Pretreatment of human keratinocytes with resveratrol inhibited UVB-mediated activation of the NF-kB transcription factor (expression regulator in many genes involved in the cancer development and progression, such as proliferation and migration). In an animal model, resveratrol topical treatment inhibited the inflammatory responses induced by UVB, as well as the hydrogen peroxide production, which is a stable source of oxidative stress in the skin. Inhibition of these critical events by resveratrol may contribute to the UV-induced skin cancer prevention. In one study, it was demonstrated that HaCat cells (cells with unlimited replicability) treatment with resveratrol prior to UVB irradiation resulted in an increase of survival irradiated cells, besides reducing oxygen reactive species production.

Resveratrol also decreased the caspase-3 and caspase-8 (a family of endoproteases, important in controlling inflammation and cell death) activation, which has shown that they may be involved in cell survival after UVB irradiation. Soy is a rich source of isoflavones, such as genistein and daidzein. Studies have shown that genistein topical application in an animal model was able to reduce the activation of c-fos and c-jun, which are proto-oncogenes related to cell proliferation, differentiation and survival processes, as well as carcinogenesis and cancer. Genistein has also been shown to reduce oxidative and photodynamic damage in DNA. Treatment in human keratinocytes with genistein also limited lipid peroxidation and increased generation of reactive oxygen species.

Green tea polyphenols: DNA damage repair

DNA damage induced by UV is an important cell signaling pathway initiator. DNA photoproducts (photochemicals) generated from UV-induced DNA damage, are altered DNA structures that activate a series of responses, DNA repair being one of them. Exposure to UV rays can impair DNA repair, resulting in oncogenic mutations. DNA damage induced by UV may occur in the form of pyrimidine cyclobutane (CPD – a form of UV induced damage).

This form of damage can result in immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis initiation. Several studies have documented that skin exposure to UV radiation results in the immediate formation of pyrimidine cyclobutane in skin cells. Most of the CPDs were found in the epidermis, but some were also detected in the dermis. The damage location depends on the ability of the UV radiation to penetrate the skin. It has been discovered that exposure to UV rays (at a dose lower than that required for erythema) has been enough to cause damage to certain human skin cells.

The UVB- induced pyrimidine cyclobutane (CPD) formation occurs after the protons interaction with DNA molecule. In an in vitro study, the EGCG use in a human cell culture (lung fibroblasts, skin fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes) was able to reduce DNA damage. Topical application of green tea polyphenols also showed a similar result as it inhibited UVB- induced damage in DNA. The green tea polyphenols topical application also inhibited the formation of CPD. Green tea extracts or white tea, also applied topically, protect the skin against the harmful effects of UV light, which can damage skin immunity.

Several studies had been conducted on the polyphenols effects, their kinetics and mechanism. These studies have shown that topical application of EGCG does not immediately prevent the formation of CPD. However, after 24h or 48h of sun exposure, the number of cells with CPD decreased after treatment with EGCG. It was then suggested that the repair mechanism presented by EGCG is mediated through the stimulation of the cytokine (protein molecule that can act on inhibition in cells of the immune system) IL-12. The IL-12 cytokine has been shown to induce repair of DNA damage. To confirm this hypothesis, an animal model with IL-12 deficiency was used.

The EGCG application in this animal model was not able to remove or reduce the presence of CPD in skin cells. In this way, the role of the IL-12 cytokine, associated with polyphenol, in the DNA damage repair was confirmed. Green tea polyphenols oral administration also showed EGCG-like effects. DNA damage in CPD form was resolved rapidly in the treatment with polyphenols from green tea. This repair effect was decreased in an animal model with IL-12 absence, which was also seen in the treatment with EGCG. The mechanisms by green tea polyphenols repaired CPD were identical to EGCG mechanisms.

The use of an aqueous green tea extract inhibited oxidative DNA damage in an in vitro system, acting against hydrogen peroxide. All of these studies on green tea polyphenols show their chemoprotective effect, as well as their performance in DNA repair.

Polyphenols performance in the reduction of UVB-induced inflammation

Pyrimidine cyclobutane (CPD) is formed immediately upon exposure of the skin to UV radiation. Then the development of inflammation occurs. After exposure to UV radiation, it was noted that damaged DNA repair in the form of CPD occurred faster with topical EGCG treatment or oral treatment with green tea polyphenols. Therefore, the inflammation levels influenced by UVB were lower in skins treated with these two substances. To assess inflammation levels, the biomarkers of inflammation, such as COX-2 expression, PGE2 production, and proinflammatory cytokine levels were analyzed.

As already mentioned, the effects of green tea polyphenols and EGCG were not observed in animal models with IL-12 deficiency, since, in these models, there was no DNA repair. This information supports the idea that DNA damage caused by UV, in addition to inflammatory responses, increases the risk of photocarcinogenesis. These in vivo studies evidence that the inflammatory inhibitory effect of these polyphenols possess is capable to prevent skin cancer. However, consumption of green tea or topical treatment with green tea polyphenols is efficient ways to prevent inflammation as well as diseases related to inflammation.

Conclusion

The polyphenols presented in this article have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect plus DNA damage repair. These protective effects may also contribute to the anti-photocarcinogenic effect, as well as void the chemical processes mediated by UV solar radiation. Based on studies using animal and human models, in addition to in vivo and in vitro systems, it is suggested that topical use or use of polyphenols may protect human skin from the harmful effects of UV rays. The polyphenols use in sun protection formulations and skin care lotions, for example, is very efficient. These polyphenols can act by soothing the negative effects of sun exposure on the skin, as well as protecting the skin from diseases caused by overexposure to UV rays.

Did you like this article?

I hope you did and we would love to hear your opinion! Leave your comment below whether you liked it or even some criticism about this article. The objective of this article is to contribute to raise the quality of technical professional level in the area. For any orientation always look for a qualified professional like a dermatologist or pharmacist.

References:

AFAQ, Farrukh; K KATIYAR, S. Polyphenols: skin photoprotection

and inhibition of photocarcinogenesis. Mini reviews in medicinal chemistry, v.

11, n. 14, p. 1200-1215, 2011.

HEINRICH, Ulrike et al. Green tea polyphenols provide photoprotection,

increase microcirculation, and modulate skin properties of women. The Journal

of nutrition, v. 141, n. 6, p. 1202-1208, 2011.

NICHOLS, Joi A.; KATIYAR, Santosh K. Skin photoprotection by natural

polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms.

Archives of dermatological research, v. 302, n. 2, p. 71-83, 2010.

SARIC, Suzana; SIVAMANI, Raja. Polyphenols and sunburn. International

journal of molecular sciences, v. 17, n. 9, p. 1521, 2016.

​Learn how Stratum Corneum lipids affect skin health and possible treatments against the depletion of these lipids.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body whose main function is to protect it against the loss of physiological components and against harmful environmental conditions. It is divided in three layers: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.

The epidermis, the most superficial layer of the skin, is subdivided into four other layers: stratum corneum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale. The barrier function mainly occurs in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum.

This stratum corneum is composed by cells called corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. Lipid bilayers are the only way through the stratum corneum and are responsible for the formation and maintenance of the skin barrier function. Therefore, any depletion or disturbance in the lipids that make up the stratum corneum can impair its barrier function.

Similarly, some diseases are associated with the depletion of these lipids. Consequently, the replacement of absent lipids can be exploited as treatment of affected skin.

The lipid layers are composed of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol specifically organized in the lipid matrix at concentrations of 40-50, 20-33 and 7-13%, respectively. However, these concentrations vary according to sex, age, individual’s condition and seasons.

In addition, there are other external and internal factors that can modify the organization and composition of lipids in the stratum corneum. Studies have shown that exposure to some chemicals used in cleaning products and sanitizers, environmental pollutants, pharmacological ingredients and some physical adversity can affect the stratum corneum.

It has been proven that the application of acetone and ethanol to the skin can cause disruption in the skin barrier due to the removal of part of the lipids from the stratum corneum. The same happen with the application of a 5% solution of sodium lauryl sulphate that has also been shown to affect intercellular lipids such as cholesterol, free fatty acids and sphingolipids.

The level of the skin barrier disturbance depends on the nature of the chemicals and the level of exposure to them. Internal factors such as inappropriate diet, ageing and high levels of stress can also alter the levels of lipids in the matrix.

Depletion or disturbance in the lipids of the stratum corneum is known to be the main cause of dryness and rupture of the skin. As a result, it loses water, becomes dry and cracked. The cracks allow the entry of allergens, toxins and microorganisms that can cause inflammation and irritation. The inflammation may cause even more disturbances in the stratum lipids, forming a vicious cycle.

This situation can result in other conditions such as severe dryness of the skin and itching, and its consequences can lead to secondary infections caused by viruses, bacteria or fungi. Other diseases may be associated with depletion of stratum corneum lipids, such as eczema, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, xerosis, among others.

Under normal circumstances, if the skin barrier function is compromised, a repair sequence is rapidly initiated by increasing the synthesis of all lipids in the stratum corneum in order to restore homeostasis. However, under abnormal conditions, the rate of synthesis of these lipids is impaired and a rapid reestablishment of depleted lipids may not be possible, impairing the barrier function of the skin. Studies show how the function can be restored and the main approaches include restoring lost lipids or administering agents that facilitate the production of these lipids.

Several studies have demonstrated that the application of lipid mixtures containing ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids in an adequate proportion facilitates the process of skin barrier recovery in skins that suffered extraction from lipids by acetone, petroleum ether or some detergents. Even so, the application of these lipids was not effective in skins treated with some detergent agents such as sodium lauryl sulphate. The negative result was attributed to the protein denaturation effect of the surfactants used and their penetration into deeper layers of skin.

Some researchers suggest that for lipid treatment to be effective, these lipids must cross the stratum corneum and reach the interface between the stratum corneum and the stratum granulosum (a layer just below the stratum corneum). Therefore, efficient diffusion between these layers is an important variable for treatment.

Besides to the stratum corneum lipids, attempts to administer their analogues were made. At a university in the Czech Republic, researchers found that a cream containing ceramide analogue (N-tetracosanoyl- (L) -serine tetradecyl ester) showed an excellent result in repairing the cutaneous barrier in skins that underwent lipid extraction in vivo tests and ex vivo. Unlike natural ceramides, the analogue was synthesized by a low cost, with two-step method that offers the advantage of minimizing enzymatic inactivation.

Ceramides are synthesized and transformed into keratinocyte differentiation process. Synthesis involves precursors of ceramides and various enzymes such as serine palmitoyltransferase. Components that may increase the activity of these enzymes increase the level of ceramides in the stratum corneum. On the other hand, ceramides can be degraded by enzymes called ceramidases, so components that inhibit these degradative enzymes may produce an increase in the concentration of ceramides in the stratum corneum. Some of these components are:

Nicotinamide and his derivatives have been shown to increase the synthesis of ceramides, glucosylceramides, sphingomyelin, free fatty acids and cholesterol. This result was attributed by a positive regulation of the serine palmitoyltransferase enzyme. Ursolic acid has also been classified as an agent capable of increasing the production of ceramide in the skin.

An American study showed that lactic acid significantly increased the level of ceramides in the stratum corneum that was associated with the transformation by the metabolism of lactic acid in Acetyl CoA, which is a source of carbon for the synthesis of lipids. However, another study has proved that the application of eucalyptus extract has improved the skin barrier, which is associated with macrocarpal active A. Macrocarpal A is one of the main active ingredients of the eucalyptus extract. According to the authors, this active increases the amount of ceramides by stimulating the expression of enzymes that stimulate their synthesis, for example serine palmitoyltransferase, glycosyltransferase, sphingomyelinase, and glucocerebrosidase.

Sodium dl-α-tocopherol-6-O-phosphate, a stable derivative against oxidation of vitamin E is another component that increases ceramide levels, as it induces the differentiation of keratinocytes by increasing the entry of calcium into their cells and stimulates expression of the genes that perform the synthesis of ceramides. Besides having antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect that reduces lipid degradation in the stratum corneum.

The skin has great importance to protect the human body and the barrier function is mainly due to the stratum corneum, more specifically to his composition and organization of the lipid matrix. Therefore, depletion of the stratum corneum lipids, which can occur due to a variety of reasons, such as the use of certain chemicals, alters their functioning and can lead to different diseases and infections. Studies show that the replacement of these lipids directly or increasing their synthesis indirectly, are effective treatments.

Did you like this article? I hope you did and we would love to hear your opinion! Leave your comment below whether you liked it or even some criticism about it.

The aim of this article is to contribute to the elevation of the technical level of professionals in the area. For any orientation always look for a qualified professional like a dermatologist or pharmacist.

References:

Sahle F.F; et al. [Skin Diseases Associated with the Depletion of Stratum Corneum Lipids and Stratum Corneum Lipid Substitution Therapy]. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2015;28:42-55. Available:

<https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/360009

Trend 1: Sustainability
Consumers are increasingly aware of the importance of environmental preservation. In this sense, products with appeals that are related to saving resources and to the non-disposal of waste that is aggressive to the environment are gaining value. One environmental issue in particular deserves even greater attention: the water shortage. As consumption increases more than supply and consumers are warned about this problem, cosmetic brands will tend to change the way their products are made and the amount of water they use in their formulations. In a survey conducted by Mintel, it was reported that one-third of all consumers would pay more for equipment that would lead to water and energy savings in the UK. So if consumers reduce the use of these items in their day-to-day life, they will also expect the brands they use to do the same. This same survey also assesses that younger people will probably feel attracted to this type of product. A second recent survey by Mintel shows that 39% of all millennials prefer sustainable brands. [1, 2] Another point that has been widely debated is the use of microspheres in cosmetic products. Microspheres are spherical microparticles made of plastic, such as polypropylene, polystyrene and others of petrochemical origin, which are placed in some cosmetic and personal hygiene products as an abrasive. It just so happens that because microspheres are very small they are not filtered out by sewage treatment systems and are discarded in our oceans where they have a negative impact on the ecosystems of these places. For this reason, the tendency is that the use of microspheres will probably be banned by the end of 2017. [1, 3] Within the sustainability tendency, organic cosmetics will also continue gaining more and more ground. [1]

Trend 2: Packaging
Despite the fact that the trends for cosmetic packaging of the future are partly linked to sustainability, this topic deserves its own attention. Market research carried out by Technavio shows that with the rise of organic cosmetics and urbanization, the tendency is that there will be an increase in the demand for smaller, sustainable packaging, with units that are easy to use, load and discard. [1, 4] With regard to being sustainable, an increasing awareness of environmental issues means that the demand for recyclable packaging made from plastics or resins that are derived from renewable sources will increase, encouraging a reduction to a minimum in the use of non-biodegradable materials. The manufacturers of eco-friendly products are looking for packaging that alludes to the concept in order to use it as promoters of their brands and of “natural” or “organic” product lines. The decrease in size, on the other hand, is linked to the need for beauty and personal hygiene items for travel: so lightweight packages that are leak-proof and resistant to climate change are required. [4] On the other hand, and contrary to the decrease in size, Brazilians will tend to look for bigger packaging given the economic recession. With the rise in the unemployment rate and the decline in purchasing power, consumers will prefer products that last longer and need to be purchased less frequently. This is what Mintel’s 2015 report says about this subject: larger packaging will be more interesting because the same unit can be used various times, for longer and split with other members of the family. This is an opposite trend to that seen in the luxury segment, where packaging is smaller and more sophisticated. Even so, the trend of large packaging is trying to address the yearning for sustainability: after all, a discarded large glass bottle pollutes less than the disposal of several small glass bottles. [5] Still on the question of packaging, an interesting idea has recently been brought from Europe to Brazil: the fractioned sale of perfumes. With the rise in the value of the US dollar, Portuguese man, Patricio Gonçalves, the director of Ducha, saw the opportunity to start selling perfume in bulk, in 4 different size packages. This is an interesting strategy, seeing that 85% of the fragrances sold in Brazil come from international perfume houses. [6]

Trend 3: DIY (Do it yourself)
Still thinking about sustainability and a more natural lifestyle, some consumers will prefer to become more involved with the creative process of the cosmetics they use. This is how they will themselves guarantee that the products they are using are in fact composed of what they expect them to be. [1] Products that require easy and handcrafted processes, so that the consumer can make them at home, are the trend. They may be made available in the form of kits, as inspired by the food industry. [1, 2]

Trend 4: Neurocosmetics
Neurocosmetics are nothing new. The first time this term appeared officially was in 2007 at the Annual Meeting of the North American Society of Cosmetic Chemists. A neurocosmetic is a product whose active ingredients target the nerve endings of the skin, which are sensitive to heat, cold, pain, pruritus, and pressure. Since then, a number of active ingredients, such as synthetic biomimetic peptides that are capable of performing neuro-modulatory actions, have been developed. [7] The combination between well-being and the sensations aroused by neurocosmetics attracts consumers who are looking to balance out their hectic day-to-day lives. The sensation of well-being may also be sought by those consumers who are sensitive to certain components in the formula and seek alternatives that do not cause skin irritation or inflammation. [8] According to Cosmetics Design, neurocosmetics tend to be found more easily in the class of anti-aging products, which are capable of producing a noticeable feeling of a smoother, more radiant, healthier, and less wrinkled skin. [8]

Trend 5: Pro–aging products
Contrary to the previous trend, the first pro-aging products are beginning to emerge. This is a trend linked to women’s liberation, in a proposal in which women get rid of the imposition of needing to look perfect all the time and the pressure of always appearing young, regardless of the stage of life they are in. As a result a new category of consumers has appeared: the silver category. [1, 9] Women in the silver category are over 50 years old and want to look healthy at the age they are. In this sense, cosmetics for the face correct the colour and promote hydration, but do not cover wrinkles or lead to a ‘face-lifting’ effect. In the hair segment, the idea is the same: do not mask, but soften the hair and give it back its shine. [9] This is a trend that is aligned with the concept of a more natural appearance, sometimes even without makeup. To extract the greatest possible potential from this segment, formulators should be aware of how people in the silver category would like to look. [9]

Trend 6: Seasonality
Still on the question of well-being, some consumers worry about the action of climate change on the skin and hair. So winter-related products, providing greater protection and hydration for dry skin in cold weather, are the trend. In the future, products aimed at cold and humid climates and at autumn climate change are coming. [10] Changes in the seasons throughout the year also have an influence on the emotions. There will be a demand for cosmetic innovations linked to winter depression and summer optimism. In particular, the fragrance industry will find opportunities in this tendency: according to Mintel’s survey, 67% of US fragrance users are interested in aromas that have an influence on mood and 23% of them would pay more for a product with such aromas. [10]

 Trend 7: High-tech cosmetology
Consumers currently have at their disposal products and devices for monitoring health and well-being. Augmented reality is becoming increasingly familiar, and a possible next step for cosmetology is the use of applications, such as virtual mirrors and the real-time visualization of the effects of beauty products on the skin and hair. As a result, cosmetics will undergo increased pressure to demonstrate their effectiveness. [2]

Trend 8: Market niches
Finally, grouping consumers merely by generation or by ethnicity has currently become obsolete. It is necessary to scale down and develop formulations according to the tastes and needs of specific groups, providing solutions for different microeconomic environments. [1]

References:

[1] Pitman, S. Top ten cosmetic industry trends to look out for in 2016. Dez. 2015. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Market-Trends/Top-ten-cosmetic-industry-trends-to-look-out-for-in-2016
[2] Mintel anuncia as quatro tendências de beleza que impactarão o mercado global até 2025. Disponível em: http://brasil.mintel.com/imprensa/beleza-cuidados-pessoais/mintel-anuncia-as-quatro-tendencias-de-beleza-que-impactarao-o-mercado-global-ate-2025
[3] Greenpeace. What are microbeads and why should we ban them? Disponível em: http://www.greenpeace.org.uk/blog/oceans/what-are-plastic-microbeads-and-why-should-we-ban-them-20160114
[4] Whitehouse, L. Organic cosmetics and convenience driving global packaging market. Ago. 2016. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Packaging-Design/Organic-cosmetics-and-convenience-driving-global-packaging-market
[5] Cosméticos com embalagens maiores são tendência no Brasil, segundo a Mintel. Mar. 2016. Disponível em: http://www.brazilbeautynews.com/cosmeticos-com-embalagens-maiores-sao-tendencia,1180
[6] Cosmetic Innovation. Venda de perfumes a granel é inovação para o mercado brasileiro. Ago 2016. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticinnovation.com.br/venda-de-perfumes-granel-e-inovacao-para-o-mercado-brasileiro/
[7] Cosmetics Online. Neurocosméticos e produtos capilares. Dez 2008. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticsonline.com.br/2011/noticias/detalhes-colunas1/243/neurocosm%C3%A9ticos+e+produtos+capilares
[8] Pitman, S. Will neurocosmetics be the next big trend? Out 2015. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Brand-Innovation/Will-neuro-cosmetics-be-the-next-big-trend
[9] Yeomans, M. The pro-aging movement: the beauty of being old. Nov 2014. Disponível em: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Market-Trends/The-pro-ageing-movement-the-beauty-of-being-old
[10] Mintel. A divisão de beleza e cuidados pessoais da mintel anuncia seasonality como tendência de beleza. Mar 2015. Disponível em: http://brasil.mintel.com/imprensa/beleza-cuidados-pessoais/a-divisao-de-beleza-e-cuidados-pessoais-da-mintel-anuncia-seasonality-como-tendencia-de-beleza