Peptide technology in cosmetic formulas has been around for more than 10 years, and the results you can obtain when using peptides – especially in the presence of suitable delivery agents – can be outstanding. So how do brands differentiate their performance in light of significant and often developed competitors?

This article will look at some of the latest innovations in peptide technology and formulation to yield even better results for today’s discerning consumer. Not sure of the difference between peptides, proteins and collagen, or how they should be used in cosmetic formulas? Watch this video for some great background information and then learn more about the peptide innovations we’re seeing in the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #1: In silico and AI development

Research and development of cosmetic ingredients has utilized Artificial Intelligence (AI) and ‘in silico’ methods (meaning computer simulations or models) to generate peptide solutions like never before. Using AI and computer models, raw material suppliers like Lipotrue are creating optimized peptides, and combinations of peptides, to target specific enzymes and biomarkers to obtain their results.

Their latest launch, SP(AI)3 is turning heads by using such unique technology to create a hexapeptide that targets the 3 markers involved in sebum synthesis, pore size and inflammation for outstanding anti-acne results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #2: Cyclic peptides

Peptides are the combination of amino acids into – usually – chains. While still extremely small, these chains are typically linear and contain a specific subset of amino acids to yield a desired action. Cyclic peptides are a new technology used by cosmetic suppliers that sets these amino acids into a continuous ring, stabilised by hydrogen bonds, to give advanced activity, stability and efficacy.

An example of cyclic peptide formation aimed at counteracting the impact of wrinkle formation at various times in the day has been launched, again, by Lipotrue. Their material Poptide shows they are one of the key leaders in peptide innovations and technology for the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #3: Crystallisation

Peptides often come highly diluted in solutions to make them water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic formulas in the cool down stage of processing. Crystallisation, however, provides a super-concentrated powder form of the peptide that can easily be solubilized in a water loving solvent (like glycerin) and then added to formulas. Crystallisation involves taking a highly saturated solution where individual peptides come together and form a crystal-like concentrate.

Using patented crystallization techniques, Active Peptide Company have created their eye-catching blue GHK-Cu Copper Peptide powder, for advanced anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #4: Hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides

Peptides used in cosmetic formulas are either:

• tripeptides or hexapeptides that have been synthetically produced;
• extracts rich in certain peptides, where the efficacy of the extract can be directly traced back to the presence of the proteins/peptides present in the plant material; or
• hydrolysed proteins.

Of these, the use of hydrolysed proteins and silk peptides has been largely under-rated – until now. Hydrolysed proteins and hydrolysed silk are essentially the original protein broken down into peptide chains to make them small enough to be biomimetic with the skin and hair, and easy to incorporate into a cosmetic formula.

The original protein is far too large and insoluble to be of any use; but when it is in the hydrolysed form it can be delivered easily through personal care. In this form it provides the peptide building blocks that repair hair and skin and provide a protective, breathable film against further damage. The results are noticeable straight away, yet there is no residue.

Hydrolysed proteins are also highly substantive, meaning there are certain grades that are particularly resistant to wash off and have proven efficacy in rinse off cosmetic formulas. Don’t underestimate the power of these peptide sources – while not deep acting like tripeptides and hexapeptides, their activity at the surface of the skin or hair is incredibly important for barrier repair, maintenance and instantaneous results.

Cosmetic peptide innovation #5: Multi-peptide combinations

Peptides are only needed in very small amount in cosmetic formulas, which is a good thing, because they are usually quite expensive. You only need a relatively small input of these materials to get great results, but they can add to the cost of a cosmetic formula quite significantly.

It is interesting to see that some of the more luxury brands, where performance is absolutely essential, are using combinations of peptides. They may describe their product as containing a peptide ‘cocktail’, or as a peptide ‘blend’, or even multi-peptide serum like in this example.

Consumers will readily pay more for a product with clinically proven efficacy, and these blended peptide formulas can often yield outstanding multi-faceted results from the tiny but effective peptide molecules they contain.

Keep up with peptide innovations in your cosmetic formulas…

While I’ve summarised the latest trends for you, it is up to you to speak directly with your suppliers and check out the Innovation Zone at your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition. You’ll always see the best and latest innovations there, and dozens of suppliers with peptide technology, and perhaps the next best thing, at these amazing events.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

It’s essential to source good quality ingredients when making cosmetic formulas, because you can’t make a chocolate cake without cocoa, and let’s face it, carob is not a suitable replacement.

The same concept applies to sourcing cosmetic ingredients: what may seem the same material from different suppliers could vary significantly enough to render a batch unstable or unsuitable, and turn a high performing product into nothing special.

You also can’t make certain formulas perform the way you want them to without sourcing from the correct supplier, and sometimes they may be a little tricky to find.

So, let’s look at the do’s and don’ts of cosmetic ingredient sourcing to help you find the contacts you need, and source exactly the right materials, to make sure your formulas turn out great, every time!

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #1: Expect to need multiple suppliers

This is the most important aspect of creating unique and high-performing cosmetic formulas. I often speak to those new to the industry and they are dismayed when they need to contact 4 or more suppliers to get the ingredients they need for just 1 formula.

But this is completely normal! While there may the occasional time where you can source everything you need from just a few suppliers, it is more common for you to need to go to at least 4 different cosmetic ingredient suppliers (and sometimes many more) in order to get the exact materials you need.

Remember to keep economies of scale in mind: where you can use multi-functional or core functional materials – such as humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives and antioxidants – in multiple formulas, then this is a great idea. However, there will be many actives where you’ll just have to source all required options to ensure you have a unique formula.

Watch this webinar where I talk about needing multiple suppliers and building your supply network.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #2: Expand your network

The next most important step is to build your supplier network. Visit in-cosmetics trade shows, your local society conferences and your local cosmetic supplier days and make sure you meet the different distributors, and who they represent.

That way, when you need a certain material, you know exactly which distributor you should contact for information and a sample.

Remember, the suppliers for different materials varies by your location, so its important that you are finding your nearest distributor or material representative to get the answers and support you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #3: Be specific with trade names

A rose by any other name may have smelt as sweet to Shakespeare, but a material by its INCI name could be any of a dozen different grades to various suppliers.

When sourcing cosmetic ingredients, you need to be specific about trade names, because this could make a huge difference in a formula.

For example, Lubrizol suppliers various carbomers and acrylates, so you can’t just go to them and ask for ‘carbomer’ or an acrylate cross polymer because:

• Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 all have the INCI name ‘carbomer’ but with different play times and after feels;

• Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 all have the INCI name ‘acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer’; however the Carbopol range have very different skin feels to the Pemulen range and suit very different products. Carbopol Ultrez 20, for example, suits clear foaming formulas and gels; Carbopol Ultrez 21 suits styling gels and hydroalcohol gels; while the Pemulen polymers are best for creams and lotions depending on the viscosity required of the finished product.

In other words, just using a ‘carbomer’ or polyacrylate based on INCI name could dramatically alter the skin feel and stability of the finished product… hence using trade names is essential when speaking with suppliers to get the exact grade of material you need.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #4: Avoid e-bay and Amazon

If you want quality cosmetic ingredients, then you need to speak directly with your suppliers.

While it might seem like a good idea to trawl various sites for the best price, you could be purchasing a very wrong material (read why: revisit tip 3), or not get crucial information for regulatory and quality reasons (read why: go to tip 5).

Your cosmetic formula and finished product must have the required batch to batch consistency, which starts with quality ingredients, and that means going direct to reputable suppliers.

How to source cosmetic ingredients tip #5: Avoid suppliers who don’t provide good paperwork

Make sure your supplier can provide at least the following information, accurately and promptly:

• The INCI name, compositional information and CAS number. The INCI name and CAS number should match what is listed on the CosIng website.

• A recommended input rate appropriate for cosmetic formulas based on testing and/or regulations.

• A technical data sheet providing processing and sourcing information sufficient to use the material in a suitable way to ensure stability in a finished formula, and so you can determine how natural or synthetic the material is.

• If it is an active ingredient, the technical data sheet should also provide suitable efficacy data and clinical results to determine the best input and product form for you to achieve the same results.

• An MSDS with all safety, compositional ranges and disposal information.

If a supplier can’t provide you with this information, then you should look for another supplier.

If you follow these 5 tips, you’ll soon be in touch with the right suppliers to source quality cosmetic ingredients every time.

You’ll also find the best cosmetic ingredient suppliers will be in touch with you when there is a new launch or innovation so you can stay ahead of the pack with the latest cosmetic formulation launches.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products.

As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin.

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical! Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vytrus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy to speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Throughout 2024 we have seen an increased interest from consumers in luxury body care – formulas that go beyond just standard moisturising and feel amazing during and after application. As this trend will continue into 2025, lets look at what it takes to create luxe body care formulas…

Luxe body care starts with a gentler, more hydrating clean

Many luxe body care ranges start with a cleansing product with mildness claims beyond just the foaming agents. Gentle body wash products can include:

• micellar body wash formulas: use low inputs of non-ionic surfactants to provide just enough foam to give a luxe-feeling clean, without leaving the skin feeling stripped of its natural oil balance. Non-ionic surfactant inputs can be as low as 3%w/w active content and work particularly well in self-foaming dispensers.
• oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas: oil-to-milk and oil-to-foam formulas both need special materials, such as Sucragel and Micromulse foam (both from Alchemy ingredients) used at 25-30%w/w to come together. These innovative functional ingredients enable the rest of the formula to use oil-based ingredients and yet still wash from the skin without an oily residue.
• foaming shower oil formulas: these cleansing formulas use a super fatting agent at a much higher input than normal (around 12-15%w/w) to provide a very mild, moisturising clean and creamy foam, along with a primary surfactant and matching input of lipids.

With these types of cleansing formulas, the skin already feels more hydrated and smoother than using traditionally built high-foaming body wash, for a more sensorially pleasing feel.

Proven hydration and elegant sensory essential in luxe body care formulas

Standard body lotion formulas use between 7-9%w/w lipid input, but that is not enough to meet the desired results of luxury lotion formulas. Not only is a higher lipid input needed – usually around 9-12%w/w – but the choice of lipids is incredibly important. They should be sustainable, ethically sourced plant oils, usually of an exotic or at least widely popular variety, with nutrient benefits to support skin hydration and repair. The combination of oils used must also provide a sensorial delight and leave the skin feeling soft and silky but never greasy.

In addition, the choice of emulsifiers used is incredibly important. Emulsifiers used in luxury body care should not only boost the stability of the formula, but its sensory aspects as well. It is an added boost if they can support the product story with clinically proven hydration.

Emulsifiers that can provide a boost to the product story or lasting hydration are many and varied; speak with your suppliers to find out about their product offerings. Some of the more interesting inclusions are the EmulsiPure range by AE Chemie, where plant derived emulsifiers are paired with various types of plant derivatives (for example, hemp oil, marula oil and green coffee extract, to name a few), for additional plant-based benefits. The Emulium range by Gattefosse contains a variety of choices all with the focus being on the sensory profile of the finished emulsion. Lucas Meyer also has a range of lecithin-based emulsifiers with varying sensory profiles, such as their Heliosoft, Heliofeel and Biophilic ranges. See how lecithin can improve the skin feel of your emulsions in this video.

Body care formulas get active

There is an ever-growing trend towards wanting ‘more’ from body care formulas these days. Lasting hydration is expected, but even more than that now: consumers are looking for their body care formulas to address very specific skin conditions and needs.

One example is to repair UV damage. Some great ingredient additions for this specific concern include vitamin B3, ectoin, beta-glucan and anti-oxidant rich extracts. More advanced actives include Repair Complex CLR (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium) and Gatuline Skin-Repair (Gattefosse). Sun protection is also an increasing trend to stop the damage in the first place – non-greasy, long wearing SPF50 body care is essential these days when facing the environment.

Another rapidly growing trend is for anti-acne and keratolytic performance. Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids were normally only used in facial care but have now been found in an increasing number of body care formulas. These may be in a cleansing or exfoliating form, and may also be included in leave-on lotion formulas for lasting activity as well.

Last but by no means least are skin rejuvenation and hyperpigmentation actives. We’re seeing active ingredients traditionally used in face creams now appearing as hero ingredients in body care. Look for actives that have particular activity on age spots and skin-firming when adding to your body care formulas. Investigate Delentigo (Mibelle AG Biochemistry), Wakamine (Givaudan Active Beauty) and Gatuline Spot-Light (Gattefosse) for use in body care products intended to lighten age spots specifically.

For skin firming, try Gatuline In-Tense (Gattefosse), Slimming Factor Karkade (Lipoid Kosmetik), Asiaticoside (Seppic), Regu-Slim (dsm-firmenich), Sculptessence (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) and Zirhafirm (Provital). Check out this video for more body firming formula ideas and this anti-cellulite cream for more actives with body smoothing efficacy data.

Add a touch of shimmer…

Depending on who your body lotion formula is for, a touch of shimmer can give additional effects. We’re not talking a party-level input, but instead, a subtle shimmer that adds to the appeal of a product. For Asian skin types, a pearly effect is highly desirable; for Caucasian skin types, a gentle glow. All skin types look healthier when more supple, so when hydrated and a very small input of effects pigment is present, it can give the final formula a little something more.

Aromatic appeal important too

As with all body care, the way it smells is incredibly important. The aroma of a product formula is not only the first thing noticed by most consumers, it can also be a lasting reminder of why they love their luxury skin care. Just remember when formulating luxe, the aromatic profile needs to match the target market very closely and is generally more complex than budget body care. Speak with your fragrance supplier for highly substantive materials and test your intended aromas on your target market to make sure it’s as desirable as the rest of the product formula so that they want to wear it every day.

With such a wide and diverse market of users, luxury body care is growing rapidly. Make your next body care formulas luxe with these formulation tips to meet the demand for this booming product category.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Formulating waterless cosmetics has continued to be a growing trend as consumers want more eco-friendly, travel ready, and low waste personal care products. Just what product forms work for waterless cosmetics, and how are they put together? Read on to find out…

How to formulate waterless bar formulas – where it all began

We first started seeing waterless bar formulas from mostly innovative, eco-friendly Indie skincare brands over five years ago. The concept was simple: formulate a concentrated ‘bar’ that consumers could wet just prior to application, then apply as if it was a regular liquid product.

However, waterless bar formulas proved to be far more difficult to create, in the early days at least. In order to create a bar form, you not only need to take out the water portion of the formula, but then increase the functional content of the formula so that it will work properly when wetted, and make the final product set just right. If the bar is too hard, it will crumble, crack, or be too hard to work with, even when water is added. If the bar is too soft, it can be deemed ineffective by consumers or again, too difficult to work with. The trick with waterless bar formulas is therefore to get the right setting and melting point for ease of use and manufacture, whilst also achieving the right consistency, hardness and performance during consumer use.

Here is a guide to get you started for a cleansing bar:

• 20 -40%w/w anionic foaming cleanser in powder or wax form only – use the lower side of input for facial bars, or the high side for shampoos. Watch how to make waterless face & body wash here.
• 10 – 35%w/w lipid content – this will depend on whether you are formulating a face cleansing bar (more oil), body wash (mid range input) or shampoo (low input).
• 5-7%w/w glycerin – this helps with flexibility of the bar, foaming and skin feel.
• 10-25%w/w non-ionic surfactant/emulsifier with a high HLB value in waxy or powder form only. Use the lower input for shampoos and body wash, and the higher input for facial cleansers. This material will also help you adjust the final hardness of the bar, once set. See how input differs when formulating waterless shampoo bars, here.
• 11 – 35% superfatting and solubilising agents. These can be adjusted to help create the desired end feel after wash off, as well as alter the hardness of the bar.
• 1-2%w/w glycerin based extracts – to boost marketing story, performance and skin feel.
• 1-2%w/w fragrance, essential oil, antioxidants or micas for sparkle.

You don’t need preservatives in a bar product as there is not sufficient water present to enable microbial growth; but you will need antioxidant if you are using natural plant oils and essential oils. Active ingredients can be added if they can tolerate the heat of processing.

As you can see, it takes a bit of trial and error to get the balance right between performance, hardness and consumer acceptance. It’s even trickier when you start formulating waterless conditioner bars and waterless moisturising bars!

Fast track your trials with this Formulating Waterless Bars workshop series, which gives very specific guidance based on product type.

How to formulate waterless foaming powders

Since hardness and form is not an issue with a powder product, these are much easier waterless formulas to create. In this case, you need to source powder foaming materials only, then use them in the following ratios:

• 10-25%w/w primary powder surfactant: if using a sulphate, and especially if creating a waterless face wash powder, use the lower input. If using isethionates, and for shampoo products, you can use a higher input.
• 10 – 15%w/w secondary mild surfactant: choose a mild powder surfactant to boost foam and gentleness, such as a sulfosuccinate.
• 20%+w/w starch: this helps the product remain free-flowing throughout its shelf life and also boosts a mild skin-feel on application.
• 3-5%w/w fast hydrating gum or polymer: this helps the product feel silky soft on application but also helps the product gel quickly for easy spreading and great foaming. Having this material helps ‘hold’ the product together when it is first wetted so that it doesn’t just fall off the skin while being applied.
• 1-2%w/w lipid, fragrance or antioxidant (optional): if adding these materials, you will need to spray them onto the powder while being mixed in a ribbon blender.

It is largely a matter of trying different inputs of your chosen materials then testing them with water to see which combination yields the desired results on application. Watch how to formulate a waterless foaming powder here. You can also get innovative with product forms, like waterless powder cleansing masks, like this one. Since there is no water present, preservatives are not needed either.

How to formulate waterless liquid concentrates

These are a newer ‘waterless’ product to enter the market and are again a bit trickier to put together. They are commonly not completely waterless, but instead, a very low water version of the normal presentation of the product, so they can be mixed with more water just before application and then used as normal. Packaging these products for suitable dispensing and explaining how a consumer should use them is the trickiest part with these products, because they are more costly to produce given their concentrated form – but cheaper in the long run, if a consumer uses them correctly.

Waterless liquid concentrates can also be quite viscous, almost paste like – so you may need to again fiddle with the form of these products to make them easy to use.

To formulate waterless liquid concentrates, you will need to subtract the water from your formula, so you are left with just functional materials. This means all functional ingredients will appear to have quite a high input compared to the water containing version. Here is a guide to inputs:

• Approximately 35%w/w of a 30% anionic surfactant plus amphoteric surfactant. There is water present in these materials which is why liquid concentrate products are not truly waterless, but instead, ‘no water added’.
• 5-8%w/w of a non-ionic surfactant or superfatting agent to boost foam and mildness.
• 5-8%w/w of a polyquaternium material in liquid form.
• 15%w/w glycerin is important to boost foam, increase mildness and improve skin feel on wash off.
• 1-3%w/w of a fast-hydrating gum or polymer to help hold the formula together when it is mixed with water just before use.
• Around 1%w/w fragrance, essential oils and antioxidant if desired. A preservative is necessary in these formulas because there is still water present in the surfactants and polyquaternium.

It can take a few trials in the lab before you get the form of these products just right – careful of them becoming too thick! Watch how to put together a shampoo concentrate here.

Go waterless today!

Consumers are increasingly demanding eco-friendly products and waterless cosmetic formulas are one of the best ways to deliver this to them! Just remember to follow the guides and be prepared for a few extra trials in the lab to get the form and performance just right. Remember to communicate the ideal mixing ratios on your packaging too, for ultimate consumer satisfaction.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

It seems consumers have a growing list of demands these days when it comes to their personal care products: they must be eco-conscious, sustainable, natural and organic, vegan-friendly, use responsible palm sources, support remote or local communities… and on top of all this, the product must actually work. How can your cosmetic brand calculate sustainability of their cosmetic formula accurately and make sure they are not guilty of greenwashing?

With all of these ethical values potentially driving the cost of product up, and limiting the choice of ingredients a cosmetic formulator can use, just where does the line blur between formulating for cosmetic product performance versus achieving ethical values?

There has been a lot of research conducted on how much a consumer’s ethical or moral values influence their product purchases. Researchers have found that positioning products to appeal to consumer morality can be an effective way to drive their purchasing behaviours¹.

But, in order for ethical claims to influence consumer habits, they need to be values that matter to that individual. For example, being vegan friendly is a message that appeals specifically to vegetarians and vegans, but may not have much, if any, impact on those who are non-discriminate meat eaters. See tips on how to formulate vegan-friendly personal care in this blog.

Price can also have an impact on a consumers’ purchasing decision, even if that purchase does not perfectly align with their ideal moral values. For example, ‘organic’ ingredients or certification will carry substantial value to those who want to live pesticide free and return to traditional farming practices; but the cost of purchasing truly organic products may mean that person needs to purchase a product claiming it contains natural ingredients, without being all natural or organic, at a lower price instead.

Finally, there is nothing like product performance to drive repeat sales. Even with the most effective ethical claims, a personal care product simply will not be purchased a second time if it doesn’t work as promised, or as the consumer requires.

Even with the most ethical of messages, a personal care product that doesn’t work well will also attract negative online reviews and comments, which is commercially damaging no matter how good the original intentions. While a strong moral message might attract a consumer to purchase a certain product, if the product doesn’t fill that consumers’ needs or deliver the desired benefits, then they simply won’t use it, recommend it, or purchase it again.

So how does a cosmetic formulator meet the needs of an ever-growing list of ethical values without impacting that all-important product performance?

Cosmetic chemists are always limited by the cosmetic ingredients available, but fortunately, multiple cosmetic ingredient suppliers have risen to the challenge and can provide various eco-conscious, sustainable, vegan friendly, natural and organic ingredient options. The task for a cosmetic chemist is to stay connected with your suppliers, visit trade shows and exhibitions to see the new ingredients being launched, and take a little extra time to search out the required options.

It is equally important for the Marketing department of a brand to have conducted the relevant research into what really matters for their target consumer, so as to not overly restrict the choices of the cosmetic formulator when it comes to ingredient selection.

For example, let’s say a hydrolysed protein is required in a conditioner formula to achieve specific repair and conditioning properties. Is vegan-friendly important? Then a plant protein source is required, and this could also be a great natural ingredient addition. However, a Cosmetic Chemist should inspect their choices a little closer: of the plant protein sources available, which are all natural, including any preservatives used? Which have the best efficacy data, to meet the performance needs of the product? Of the remaining selections, which have additional eco-friendly, community support or other appealing messages?

Finally, which meet the costs and minimum order requirements of production? Simply selecting a plant-based protein source is not enough if you are trying to meet multiple consumer demands, so start with a clear list of what is absolutely needed compared to what is preferred, then refine your available choices to tick as many boxes as possible with every ingredient you select.

Obviously, this takes a little extra time, but it’s the only way to achieve the desired cosmetic product performance whilst appealing to as many consumers ethical values as possible. This also gives the marketing department a much stronger story to compete amongst the sea of ethical claims they may otherwise find themselves drowning in!

But what if the desired ethical values contradict possible performance? For example, it is impossible to formulate an all-natural aesthetically pleasing SPF50+ sunscreen with 2 hour water resistance because of the ingredients that simply must be used to achieve the required results. What is a cosmetic chemist to do then?

The first step is to discuss it with marketing: will their consumer accept some ethical compromises to achieve the desired performance characteristics, so long as every other ingredient in the product has a strong moral story – or will those ethical values rule out, making the finished product no longer attractive to their consumers’ purchasing decision?

With a product such as this, a consumer will find that they must compromise if they want that level of performance; but a cosmetic brand must do what they can too. In this case, choosing naturally derived, sustainable, responsible palm and vegan friendly functional ingredients such as the gums, emulsifiers and lipids could be essential to the cosmetic products’ success, and the only way to achieve both the required product performance and still have the required appeal to consumers’ ethical values.

The take home message is: to compete in the crowded cosmetic marketplace, cosmetic brands must understand their target market needs and desires more than ever. The line of compromise needs to be investigated and articulated too.

Finally, the Cosmetic Chemist must stay connected and do the extra research steps as part of their development to make the most fitting cosmetic ingredient choices to ensure the final product formula delivers on the required performance whilst satisfying consumer need for ethical products when purchasing.

The extra steps at the early stages of product concept and design are essential, but the finished product can then give a rewarding sense of achievement to all involved. Not to mention the ultimate winner, particularly where overarching decisions are made about conscious sustainability: our planet.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

1 Luttrell, A., Teeny, J. & Petty, R. 2021. “Morality Matters in the Marketplace: The Role of Moral Metacognition on Consumer Purchasing.” Social Cognition.

The Research & Development (R&D) and Marketing departments of a cosmetic brand are both groups of highly professional and skilled individuals essential to success… yet their approach is from such different perspectives, issues are bound to arise over time and discussions can sometimes get heated.

How can you get the best performance out of each of your teams particularly when a challenge hits your multi-faceted project? Read on to find out…

The way marketing sees it…

Your marketing team is essential to:

• identify cosmetic product opportunities within the competitive marketplace;
• conduct market research to drive product creation and strategy from the concept stage;
• create effective marketing campaigns to be seen and heard by your target market;
• determine the right price and place for products to be available;
• monitor and grow product sales.

Your marketing department want a great product with outstanding ingredients and performance they can truly boast about so they can get consumers to love your brand as much as they do.

Surely a team of R&D specialists can mix some ingredients to give them what they’ve asked for?

The way R&D sees it…

Your R&D team is essential to:

• create safe, stable and efficacious cosmetic formulations that meet the needs of a brief;
• run regulatory checks and provide compliance information;
• conduct safety, stability and performance tesity and performance testing to prove all theoretical work;
• create an amazing product formula that can be scaled up easily.

Your R&D department have created a fantastic product that has a great shelf life and complies with the rules. Surely a team of marketing specialists can create advertising copy and make it leap off the shelves?

R&D and Marketing red flags

Exactly why do these two groups within the same company conflict? It could be:

• issues with the product development brief: marketing would have researched their target consumers well before finalising the brief, so its little wonder they aren’t keen on making changes to this very important document just because a Chemist says something is not possible, or Regulatory says a rule can’t be broken. However, those are the exact types of situations that commonly arise.

• clarify responsibilities: cosmetic product development is a multi-stage project where crossovers can (and often do) occur between various departments. For example, a formula could be totally inappropriate for certain types of packaging or dispensers – so this needs to be finalised early. Which department is in charge of finding the right packaging? An ingredient list can’t be finalised until a cosmetic formula is signed off, and even then, it’s not a certainty until minimum accepted stability tests have been completed. Who is wearing the risk if changes need to be made for quality reasons that impact printing, just to meet a tight schedule?

• micro-managing or over control: R&D need to respect the consumer knowledge the marketing department has, while marketing needs to respect the ingredient and formulation knowledge the R&D team brings to the table. Issues can occur when R&D tries to tell marketing how to write product copy or what consumers want. They can also occur when marketing tries to tell R&D how to adjust their formulas. Let each department know their strengths and weaknesses, don’t try to tell them how to do their job.

• workflow: certain stages of cosmetic product development can rely heavily on a department or even an individual. If too much pressure is applied, steps can be missed and human error can occur. It may be necessary, especially when multiple projects are under way, to check if there is sufficient experience and team members to prevent this from happening.

• understanding time and the process: conflicts will often arise where someone doesn’t understand the other person’s role well enough, or the required time to complete certain stages of a cosmetic development project. Does the R&D team understand the commercial reasons why a certain performance, claim or even feel is essential? Does the marketing team understand what stability testing is, and why it can’t be rushed? People can’t know what they don’t know; and if these two teams don’t know enough about the challenges that each faces when trying to create and sell a successful cosmetic product, there are sure to be issues down the line.

Ways to help R&D and marketing work better… together!

Try these approaches to smooth things over and get the best possible outcomes for your brand and cosmetic developments:

• consider the product development brief as a tool for communication. Yes, a fair bit of work has gone into its creation, however changes are often necessary. Work together to achieve the desired outcomes knowing these are bound by scientific principles and regulatory restrictions. At the same time, if the brief changes too much, it may no longer have its competitive edge. What ideas can everyone discuss to jump the hurdles rather than let them be roadblocks?

• explain issues using the right language. Explaining the issues with the current brief, or dilemmas with altering the brief, can help people from both sides of the company understand how to find a suitable solution. While scientific or regulatory discussions enable one to speak very specifically, they can make it sound like you’re trying to talk above another person’s intellect. On the other hand, creative explanations can sound like waffle to a pragmatic person. Both R&D and marketing personnel will need to find ways to highlight the issues they face with any changes needed using language the other team will properly understand.

• be open to brainstorming. Marketing are typically creative types; R&D are typically more rational. Brainstorming needs creativity before it can walk a rational path, so brainstorming can often be best started by the marketing team alone. With a few options on the board, the R&D team can then explore which idea has the best scientific (or regulatory) potential, and the teams can meet again.

• be flexible without breaking. You’ve discovered some changes need to be made to the product, the formula or the brief. Which changes can be made without losing sight of the original objective? Are there different ways of approaching a formula, outside of the box your are normally formulating within? Both teams may need to ask themselves: what is the closest acceptable alternative? Discussions could be fruitful once each department has used this approach.

• walk the walk a little. Invite the other department to spend time in yours. This can be tricky – let’s face it, everyone is so busy these days – but even just a small amount of time spent walking in each other’s ‘shoes’ could lead to massive gains in existing and future projects. I’m not suggesting a marketing person should suddenly start creating a cosmetic formula, but if they could watch a complex regulatory search get conducted, or see a failed stability test, they may suddenly have a greater appreciation for what is involved. Similarly, a chemist who gets to see market survey results and competitor analysis will better understand exactly why the brief has certain requests. When there is better understanding, teams are more congruent and resolutions more forthcoming.

You’re all on the one team

A market leading cosmetic product needs both a fantastic formula and effective marketing campaign. Achieving both is impossible when your R&D and marketing departments are more like opponents than teammates. Use the tips in this article to identify where issues have occurred in the past and implement strategies for solutions to overcome them in the future.

The results will be amazing products that truly get noticed, with the sales results and happy consumers you’ve been hoping for.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

What makes a consumer decide: yes, this is the skincare/haircare product I need! While much has been said about consumer psychology in general, there are some behaviours specific to the beauty consumer you’ll need to be aware of to pique their interest and turn that into a purchase.

The needs-benefits concept of cosmetic product development has been the feature of so many other available articles, this blog will instead look at some of the other behaviours that are crucial to captivating the often-immeasurable aspects of the beauty consumers’ purchasing habits, essential to draw them into their first or repeat purchases.

The generation gap of beauty consumers

It goes without saying the younger generation (those below the age of 40, generally speaking), use social media and technology more, with a startling number of Generation-Z making purchasing decisions based on digital interactions for products they don’t need yet!

Read tips on how to create a viral skincare trend here. Both Gen-Y and Gen-Z spend a lot of time on their devices, particularly on Snapchat and Tik-Tok, and are subject to believing and following the skin and haircare products used by celebrities and influencers. Their drive to purchase is based on recommendations or reviews more than a cosmetic brand’s direct marketing, and they are more likely to purchase a product before trying it based on their online experiences.

There are mixed interactions and abilities of the more mature generations (again, generally speaking, those aged 40 and above). While some members of these groups are very socially active, there are also a significant proportion who are not.

You will always have your early adapters in any age group, and those first responders are typically impacted by celebrity endorsements online; however, there are not many ‘influencers’ in this older category.

This consumer is more likely to purchase from a cosmetic brands’ advertising, and can often recall the celebrity used in major brand campaigns. They will also be very influenced by a friend’s recommendation, rather than an influencer. Being used to the days of testers, samples, and guidance by staff in stores, this age group will often prefer to touch, feel or smell a product before purchasing.

This ‘generation gap’ is incredibly important when you think about how you want to attract the specific demographic of your beauty consumer and keep them brand loyal.

The psychology reaction of the beauty consumer

Regardless of how consumers obtain their cosmetic products, their initial reactions to a physical product are largely the same. Beauty consumers will most commonly:

• smell a product first. This causes an initial reaction toward the product, so make sure your skincare or haircare formula smells the way your target market expects or prefers. This can include the need for it to be unfragranced, which is increasingly popular for sensitive skin and hair care formulas.
• then touch and apply a small amount of product. Generally, this will be a swipe of product commonly applied to the back of their hand. In the case of hair care, this will commonly be to their fingertips or palm. Even consumers purchasing colour cosmetics for their face will typically apply a small amount to the back of their hand first! Since this is very common consumer behaviour, make sure the product is visibly appealing as they will apply and then inspect it closely.
• next, they’ll let their emotions and senses tell them how they feel about a product. A good part of this can be captivated by the aroma (first step) and touch (second step). Equally important is the emotion the product induces based on its sensory aspects. For example, if it feels particularly cooling or soothing in those first few moments; or if it has a lasting emolliency a few minutes or longer after application (perceived as unwanted greasiness in younger skin types, or as desirable hydration in mature skin types).

These initial reactions happen within mere seconds of a consumers first exposure to a skin or haircare product. For the younger consumer, it will often be after they have purchased the product (or via a mailed-out product sample); for mature consumers, it will usually be instore before they purchase the product.

The psychology of beauty consumer loyalty

Everyday consumers are bombarded with a myriad of skin and haircare advertisements, messages and recommendations. Those utilising social media – of all ages – are typically exposed to even more. How do you get your consumers to stay brand loyal despite all the noise?

Whilst key psychological factors described above can draw your consumer to the product and help cross that final barrier to purchase, a cosmetic brand builds its strength and long-term sales from brand loyalty. This translates as… results!

Consumers will readily complain to friends (and online) about a cosmetic product not performing the way it promised, so make sure you not only have evidence to support marketing claims, but that your cosmetic product actually delivers. Brand loyalty can also be achieved by making sure your cosmetic product outperforms your closest competitors, as they will be the product options your consumer may be considering next (or have previously tried).

Translating beauty consumer psychology into cosmetic developments

So, what does the psychology of the beauty consumer mean to cosmetic formulation development? Here is a brief summary:

• consider how the generation gap will impact your marketing approaches and consumer exposures before purchase.
• ensure the cosmetic formulas have the right aromatic appeal, desired aesthetics and pleasing sensory on first application.
• make sure the cosmetic formula delivers on its promises – your marketing claims – both made directly and as statements by influencers.
• remember to research and meet the needs-benefits aspects of your demographic.

Speak with your suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to find the cosmetic ingredients that will appeal to the psychology of skin or haircare consumer – you really will see the difference in the cosmetic brands bottom line.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

I often get asked: what is the difference between pharmaceutical formulation and cosmetic formulation? While the use of therapeutic actives and delivery is often cited as the most obvious variation, the other main distinction is that cosmetic formulas must be much more aesthetically pleasing to consumers than their medicinal counterparts.

When creating pharmaceutical formulas, we need to be concerned foremost with ensuring stable and effective delivery of a medicinal compound; how the product feels or smells is of much lesser importance.

When it comes to formulating cosmetics however, while the product must perform as required by a consumer, it must also provide a pleasing sensory experience to fulfill their expectations and meet often intangible desires.

Let’s look at some formulating tips to ensure your cosmetic formulas deliver on the sensory and aromatic aspects deemed desirable and essential by consumers.

Immediate sensory pleasure can build cosmetic brand loyalty

When a consumer tests a cosmetic product, they will usually apply a small portion to the back of their hand or palm, smell it, then rub it between their fingertips. See additional interesting consumer habits in this video. This can mean the difference between them purchasing a product or choosing to leave it on the shelf.

You can alter the immediate sensory pleasure of a cosmetic product by:

• selecting emulsifiers that have a cushioning feeling without excessive rub in time;
• choosing lipids with volatility or little play time for oily skin types;
• using lipids with a buttery sensory for dry or sensitive skin products;
• combining lipids to create a long spreading emolliency required by body products; and/or
• adding gums that can alter the spread and feel of lipids on contact.

You may also find it useful to add cooling ingredients (such as menthol) or warming ingredients (such as zeolite) in certain cosmetic formulation types for an extra wow factor on application. See more tips on how to formulate for rapid results with this blog. Testing the immediate sensory experience of a product with a target consumer group can be an important aspect to see how well your cosmetic formula appeals to them from the very first introduction.

Lasting sensory appeal can support the activity of the cosmetic formula

The lasting sensory of a product needs to support the performance aspects of the cosmetic formula. In formulation terms, examples include:

• formulas for dry, mature and sensitive skin types need a lingering emolliency on the skin, long after it has been applied;
• cosmetics for hair care should have little to no residue shortly after being applied – volatile lipids can be a great way to achieve this result;
• make up products need to spread well during application but then must not run into fine lines or move throughout the day;
• formulas for oily skin types should remain relatively weightless from application – but usually benefit from the addition of humectants for non-greasy hydration.

Think about the needs of your target consumer: the lasting sensory profile of a cosmetic formula should support these needs to ensure the best results of the product over a prolonged period.

The aroma must appeal to the target market

The aroma of your cosmetic formula can be used to entice a consumer to test its sensory, and can reinforce the message you are trying to convey about the product. The smell of a cosmetic product has such a powerful impact, it can instantly appeal or deter a consumer from purchase! For example, if you are formulating for a:

• sensitive skin market: fragrances and essential oils are often avoided.
• budget market: cheap fragrances with simple aromas are usually the best choice.
• natural market: essential oils or natural fragrances created from essential oil isolates are generally required.
• luxury market: the aromatic profile must be highly specialized to your ideal consumer, whether it be from essential oils or fragrance materials.

When creating cosmetic formulas with essential oils, remember their input is generally too low to be of therapeutic benefit, and their inclusion must not be marketed based on their traditional medicinal uses. Some essential oils can support the performance of active ingredients by balancing the sebum levels of the skin or hair, although their use must be carefully considered if the aromatic profile is not appealing to your target market, despite their benefits.

Aromas can also be used to define a product range, impart an uplifting or relaxing mood, cover undesirable body odours or boost attraction. Learn how to choose aromas to suit your target market, including the use of essential oils, and incorporate them safely into your formulas.

Why sensory and aromatic principles are essential in cosmetic formulas

Consumers have a lot of choice when it comes to personal care. The immediate and long-term sensory aspects of a cosmetic formula, and especially its aroma, can be a make-or-break point when consumers are considering whether to purchase new cosmetic products. Consumers can’t often know just how well a product will work when they are first introduced to it at the shelf – but they can sense whether they like how a product smells and feels almost immediately. Use the tips in this article to ensure the sensory experience suits their preferences and boosts the positive experience of using your brands cosmetic products.

Remember to test the suitability of the sensory and aromatic profiles of your intended product before launching on members of your target market to ensure it hits the right note.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

While the ageing process is eventually inevitable, we can slow the rate at which our cells divide and therefore age – as well as the physical appearance of ageing – using cosmetic ingredients which target the process of ‘cellular senescence.’ There is a growing number of active ingredients which target this activity within the skin, from extracts to peptides and even stem cell technology. Read on to see how delaying cellular senescence is the next big buzz-word in antiaging skin care formulations.

What is cell senescence?

Within our skin cells, our chromosomes are part of the DNA replication process. At the ends of chromosomes are protective telomeres; but every time your cells divide, these telomeres shorten. When they have shortened enough, the cells will senesce – they will become dormant. In other words, your skin cells are only able to reproduce a certain number of times before their proliferation declines and they are no longer active. Obviously, to retain the appearance and features of youthful skin, we need to prolong the life of our skin cells for as long as possible.

This is why cosmetic active ingredients which are able to overcome cellular senescence are so powerful in anti-ageing cosmetic formulas.

How cosmetic active ingredients can overcome cellular senescence.

Different cosmetic actives can slow cellular senescence using various mechanisms:

• Protecting telomere length: this is one of the most important ways to slow cellular senescence. Since telomeres shorten with every cellular division, if you can maintain their length, you can keep them active.
• Reducing skin cell proliferation: by reducing the rate of proliferation, the number of cellular divisions can be slowed and senescence delayed.
• Disguising markers of cell senescence: this in effect enables the cell to continue to be active.
• Promoting autophagy (or cellular detoxification): supporting cellular lifespan by removing wastes or degraded organelles to improve cellular function.

When choosing your cosmetic active to delay cellular senescence, make sure you consider how it is providing that effect to determine the effectiveness of results your consumer will experience in conjunction with other active ingredients used in your formulations, and as part of your overall cometic product offerings.

Delaying cellular senescence: a difficult story to explain to consumers.

Cosmetic products are broadly defined by regulators as substances to be applied to the external surface of the skin in order to maintain or protect its’ appearance. Marketing claims made about cosmetic products must comply with this overarching definition, and must not make claims about the physiological activity occurring within a cell.

This means that explaining how cosmetic actives help preserve the appearance of youth by inhibiting cellular senescence is impossible to tell directly to a consumer.

While a cosmetic brand cannot market or otherwise direct consumers to the terms ‘delaying cellular senescence’ (or similar physiological functions), they can promote the visible results: a reduction in appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, improvements to skin suppleness and radiance, visibly denser looking skin, and an increase in skin firmness. The issue remains, however, that in a crowded anti-ageing marketplace, how does a cosmetic brand effectively explain just how their cosmetic formula differs, and potentially outperforms, a competitor brand not using anti-senescent active ingredients?

The answer is in marketing a return to a more youthful appearance of the skin: using terms such as ‘look X years younger within 30 days,’ or ‘restore the signs of youth,’ or similar terms, based on the clinical evidence you hold for the active ingredients and cosmetic formulation created. Since consumers understand, and commonly want, their skin to look and feel younger, this is a marketing message that resonates readily with them. Cosmetic actives that target cellular senescence make cells function as if they are younger to get the desired results. Hence, referring to a younger appearance or wiping years off their visible age helps a consumer connect their wants with the benefits provided by these products, without breaching cosmetic claim regulations.

Which suppliers have anti-senescent cosmetic actives?

Peptides with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following cosmetic peptides:

• Col-Frag Remastered (LipoTrue)
• Progeline (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• PromaCare GSH (Uniproma)
• WKPep Antiprogerin (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co)
• WKPep CLP2 Plus (SpecChem)

Understand more about peptides, proteins and collagen selection for cosmetic formulas with this video. Also learn how peptides work in cosmetic formulas here.

Extracts with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to the following cosmetic extracts:

• IBR-Dormin (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• RejuveNAD (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Regu-Science (DSM- Firmenich Personal Care)
• Sunflower Shoot Active (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)
• Vitasource (Provital)

Get additional tips on how to use herbal extracts in cosmetic formulas here.

Stem-cell technology with anti-senescence activity include, but are not limited to, the following stem-cell based cosmetic ingredients:

• Altheostem (Provital)
• Centella Reversa (Vytrus Biotech)
• PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica (Mibelle AG Biochemistry)

Remember to look at the efficacy data, inputs used, test conditions and components present when determining which anti-senescent cosmetic active is best suited to your cosmetic brand’s product story. As this is a continuously growing area of innovation, we are also seeing new anti-senescent cosmetic actives launched each year… so make sure you speak with your cosmetic ingredient suppliers and visit your nearest in-cosmetics exhibition to find the active solution best suited to your next formulation development.

Happy formulating!

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS