Cosmetics New Zealand recently hosted an AI Bootcamp facilitated by Frances Valentine of AcademyEX in Auckland, NZ.

This AI Bootcamp was like opening a door to a new dimension where technology meets personal care.

The attendees hailing from different corners of the personal care industry (brand owners, product designers, cosmetic chemists, manufacturing, sales and marketing), gathered with one common goal: to explore the realms of artificial intelligence and its potential to revolutionize our field.

Imagine a tool that not only complements your work but also propels it into new realms of creativity and efficiency.

That’s AI for you in the personal care industry.

It’s not just another tech buzzword; it’s a game-changer that is rapidly transforming how we approach everything from product development to customer interaction.

For starters, the art of working with AI is a skill within itself. Knowing how to communicate with this technology, to ‘prompt’ it effectively, is crucial.

We learned that the more precise and informative our prompts, the better AI can serve our needs. And yes, there’s such a thing as ‘prompt engineers’ – specialists who craft these inquiries to perfection, ensuring that the outcome is as close to our vision as possible.

During the Bootcamp, we dived into various applications of AI, from generating stunning visuals for presentations and product pitches to creating sophisticated logo designs.

The versatility of AI was on full display as we explored its use in content creation, packaging, and even mockup imagery. Our imaginations ran wild as we witnessed product designs coming to life before our eyes.

For the cosmetic chemist it extends to the very heart of product creation – the formulations.

By inputting a list of ingredients from a favourite product, AI can suggest alternative ingredients, formulations, and manufacturing methods. It’s not just a tool for replication; it’s a starting point for innovation, a springboard for creativity that propels us to invent and explore.

As a product designer, AI opens a new frontier for market research. It enables us to craft accurate product briefs and identify target markets with a precision that was once out of reach.

The potential for personalization is vast, with AI’s advanced analytics paving the way for products that truly reflect individual consumer needs and desires.

If you’re a chemist, you can leverage the synergy between science and sales more effectively.

By entering the ingredient details into an AI system, you can request a consumer-friendly narrative of your product. This will provide the marketing team with a clear and precise understanding of what they are advertising.

For research and development, using AI provides a platform for precise and targeted information, looking for ways to formulate something innovative with only a few known ingredients, or asking AI to suggest ingredients or a formulation that can do x, y, z for x amount of time in x environment or x target market. Again, providing a starting point.

There is also an AI for packaging and brand creation, bringing a visual opportunity to your client when you are presenting new product development or Brand creation.

Manufacturing and supply chain management is where AI stands as a pillar of transformation, bringing about optimized production planning, inventory control, and even predictive maintenance.

This technological leap doesn’t signal a reduction in human roles; rather, it reallocates our efforts towards more strategic, impactful work, elevating the quality of jobs and encouraging the development of new skills.

AI in the personal care and beauty industry isn’t about replacing humans; it’s about enriching our capabilities.

It’s a collaborative effort that promises to lead us toward unmatched innovation, efficiency, and personalization.

As we step forward, we’re not just adopting new technology; we’re embracing a future where AI and human creativity merge to redefine beauty and personal care.

In this image, the focus is on the consumer experience in a modern retail setting, where a customer is selecting & purchasing a skincare product. The innovative development process involving AI is subtly referenced through digital displays or interactive kiosks in the store, providing a backdrop that hints at the technology’s role in product creation. The scene emphasizes the consumer’s interaction with the product and the technology-enhanced experience.

If you don’t know where to start, start here:

Chat GPT.4 – paid version allows access to much more data

Public GPTS – Canva, Research Assistant, Logo creator, image creator, diagrams: show me, Cartoonize yourself, Dall-e, data analyst, creative writing coach, video, slide maker, scholar AI, Finance wizard, Grimoire, packsmart designer, night café, pictory (paid), vispunk.com, Veeda, HeyGen, Gamma ai , academyEX

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BROWSE SHOWS

As consumer consciousness about environmental impacts is increasing, it is necessary to provide sustainable personal care products. The current trends suggest that future personal care products need to be environmentally friendly, natural, and ethical.

The future of personal care product design requires exploring raw materials, usage experience, packaging, and product lifecycle performance. The design process needs to be conducted with a circular economy approach, prioritizing recyclability, and reusability.

Raw Materials

Lab-grown sustainable ingredients are becoming increasingly popular in the personal care industry due to their potential to provide a sustainable alternative to traditional ingredients. Some examples are:

• Microalgae – Microalgae are a rich source of nutrients, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds that can be used in skincare products. They can be grown in labs using minimal resources and in a sustainable way.
• Plant stem cells – Plant stem cells are extracted from plant tissue cultures and can be used in skincare products to promote cell regeneration and protect against environmental stressors. They can be produced in large quantities without the need for agricultural land.
• Biosurfactants – Biosurfactants are surface-active compounds produced by microorganisms that can be used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in personal care products. They are biodegradable and can be produced in a sustainable way.
• Biopolymers – Biopolymers are polymers derived from renewable plant sources. They can be used as thickeners and stabilizers in personal care products and are biodegradable and sustainable.
• Fermented ingredients – Fermentation is a natural process that can be used to produce ingredients with enhanced properties such as increased antioxidant activity or improved texture. Fermented ingredients can be produced in a sustainable way and can be used in skincare products.

The sourcing of raw materials must be ethical, fair-trade, and with less water consumption.

Usage Experience

Sustainable personal care products for the future should focus on giving a good user experience because it influences people’s purchasing decisions. People want products that feel good, perform well, and provide effects without harming themselves, the environment, or animals. Products must be gentle, non-toxic, and enjoyable to use.

A growing trend is less is more approach on formulation or application and for the product to be multifunctional, used in many ways or mixed with other products.

Packaging

The packaging must be designed in a way that eliminates waste, minimizes environmental impacts, and can be reused or recycled. The packaging must also be lightweight to minimize carbon footprint, and it should not consist of any harmful chemicals or materials.

There are several sustainable options for personal care packaging that you can consider:

• Glass is an excellent option for sustainable personal care packaging because it is 100% recyclable and can be reused many times.
• Bioplastics are made from renewable resources such as corn starch, sugarcane, and potato starch. They are biodegradable and compostable, making them an eco-friendly option.
• Aluminium is another excellent option for sustainable personal care packaging because it is lightweight, recyclable, and can be recycled infinitely.
• Paper packaging is a sustainable option because it is biodegradable, compostable, and made from renewable resources.
• Refillable packaging: Refillable packaging is an excellent option for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, and body wash. Refillable packaging reduces waste and saves money in the long run.

Lifecycle Performance

It is essential to consider the disposal of the product once its use has ended. The products must be designed to degrade or decompose entirely, making it harmless to the environment. Product design considerations should factor into disposal and end-of-life options, including composting, recycling, or cradle-to-cradle manufacturing.

Designing for a Circular Economy

Designing for the circular economy must be a priority for any future sustainable personal care product. A circular economy is an economic model designed to eliminate waste and promote the reuse and recycling of materials.

Such models aim to reduce the number of wasted resources while simultaneously increasing the use of sustainable, renewable resources. Designing personal care products with a circular economy approach means designing products that can be repaired, reused, and recycled throughout the product life cycle.

For instance, a shampoo brand can implement a refillable system, where customers can purchase refills for their shampoo without buying a new bottle, reducing the use of plastic packaging. A circular economy for personal care products may also mean using renewable resources for production or sourcing materials that are abundant in nature, reducing dependence on non-renewable resources.

The future of personal care product design needs to meet customer expectations of environmental friendliness, sustainable ingredient alternatives and ethical practices while providing an excellent user experience.

Personal care products designed with a circular economy approach will build a sustainable future. Consumers can make a significant contribution to this by choosing products that reduce negative impact on the planet and their health. If we collectively come together and design products with a sustainable approach, we can create a better future, starting with our daily personal care routines.

Check out this recent launch from Australian Brand ReMI who has ticked all these boxes!

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BROWSE SHOWS

Derma-cosmetics are skincare products that use sophisticated active ingredients to directly support or care for the symptoms of various skin conditions.

“Derma” of course means ‘of the skin’, and we know that “cosmetic” relates to appearance. So a product that is derma-cosmetic is purposefully formulated to address both. It combines a dermatological action with a cosmetic action therefore bridging two quite unique market segments.

Derma-cosmetics tend to be gender neutral and have evolved as both a substitute and to complement medical recommendation. They are scientifically formulated and unanimously offer high quality, effective skin solutions – designed to stand out from other generic skincare products.

The COVID-19 pandemic created the perfect moment for this market segment collision, and we have derma-cosmetic brands gain a lot of traction. As people grapple with the heightened sense of risk, there’s intensified consumer desire for safety and science. Successful products in this segment can demonstrate their efficacy through evidence-based claims. Derma-cosmetics is part of a wellness proposition, a megatrend that will be long-lasting – far beyond the effects of COVID-19.

Trending search phrases relevant to skin defence include skin detox, pollution and microbiome. Also, numerous skin repair and restore ingredients have graced the search fields: butters and oils, avocado, sunflower, moringa, cannabis, collagen, shea, humectant, hyaluronic acid, retinol, peptide, arnica, ceramides, ceramide, niacinamide.

And to provide some context, the five most common conditions are oily skin with imperfections prone to acne, sensitive skin, dehydrated skin and dry or atopic-prone skin.

The interesting thing is that with the demand for products to offer this functionality, we also see the demands of the conscious and savvy consumers. They’re not going to simply take a brand’s word for it. They want facts and research to back up their claims if they’re going to be parting with hard-earned money to purchase something with a new proposition. For brands that are offering the real deal, this will be no problem at all. For brands that are looking to leverage off this trend, take this as a caution.

The crux of this conversation is that consumers are smarter than they’ve ever been, because we humans are being reminded to understand and care for ourselves in our own unique ways.

But although this is a unique opportunity for brands, there are some things to keep in mind here. Skin conditions are complex and unique. Their treatments can also be unique to individuals, depending on a number of factors. In successful derma-cosmetic brands, we have seen products that are not too complex, focused on an ingredient or condition, and are a celebration of humans’ uniqueness. The products provide consumers with comfort and sensory improvements that address the physical impact of various skin conditions as well as the mental health aspect, such as lack of confidence.

So what’s the difference between derma-cosmetics and standard skincare products?

• More Potent and Advanced Ingredients
• Higher Quality Ingredients
• Better Delivery Of Ingredients
• More Sophisticated Formulations

Derma-cosmetic products are designed to be multitasking with a more comprehensive approach to treating the root cause of a problem. They also don’t just apply to the face, but can also be applied to the body and hair.

Here are some examples you might like to take a closer look at:

BASF has a derma-cosmetic portfolio with Safe and effective skin care-regime-based solutions with high efficacy as an alternative to procedure-based treatments to address their personal skin needs. In this context, the company thinks these new peptides will enable skincare brands to develop innovative products with enhanced benefits.

https://www.carecreations.basf.com/news-media/news-releases/2022/01/28/basf-launches-peptovitae-series-a-new-range-of-dermocosmetic-peptides-helping-to-revolutionize-the-cosmetics-industry

Recently launched onto the market is New Zealand brand Raaie – https://raaie.co.nz/

Super-fusing natural NZ botanicals with high efficacy with lab grown ingredients such as 15% Vitamin C: A power blend of two different types of Vitamin C; 13% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and 2% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, two different molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid and Ferulic Acid to boost the efficacy.

Kalichem Peptilift is a biomimetic endorphin oligopeptide-based complex (INCI: Sh-Pentaptide-5), with a particular tropism for the skin’s neuroendocrine system. It is incorporated into a functional lipo-oligopeptidic delivery system based on conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) glutathione (INCI: Potassium Glutathione Isomerised Linoleate), which selectively activates the opioid signalling directly on the skin and has intrinsic ‘anti-inflammageing’, detoxifying and anti-pollution properties.

https://www.kalichem.it/blog/endorphin-peptide-based-for-cosmetic-industry/

New Zealand Premium Body Care range Tronque – https://tronque.com/ would be classified as a derma-cosmetic as it is packed with high quality, high potency efficacious actives. Tronque was born through founder Tanne’s struggle with her reproductive health and is made with an ethos of full ingredient transparency, and maximum safety and efficacy. It’s free from endocrine or internal health disruptors and other toxins, designed for the glorious spectrum of skin types, genders and ethnicities.

The Ordinary https://theordinary.com/en-us/multi-peptide-serum-for-hair-density-hair-scalp-treatment-100434.html

Packed with high-end active ingredients – This concentrated formula is designed to support hair health so that it looks thicker, denser, fuller and healthier. The technologies present in this formula include REDENSYL complex (with Larix Europaea Wood Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract), Procapil peptide complex (with Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1), CAPIXYL peptide complex (with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 and Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract), BAICAPIL complex (with Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract and Glycine Soja Germ Extract), AnaGain (Pisum Sativum Extract) and High-Solubility Caffeine (1% net Caffeine by weight), in an ultra-lightweight, emollient base for efficient penetration. The total concentration of these technologies in the formula by weight is 21.15%.

Overall, derma-cosmetic products unanimously offer high quality as well as effective skin solutions and stand out from other generic skincare buys.

On a practical level from a formulations point of view, ingredients used in derma-cosmetics should show an evaluation from a dermatological point of view, including:

• Low skin irritating potential
• Protection of the skin barrier function
• Soothing, anti-irritant and moisturising capabilities
• Safe, pure, effective
• Reduce the chemical load of skin
• Use as little ingredients as possible for minimal need
• Use of “multitasking” ingredients

Usually when a new trend comes across my desk I expect to see the industry as a whole react in their own ways, but this trend feels much more niche – and serious – than that. While many users of cosmetic products suffer from skin conditions, the ingredients required to address these sensitivities are not cheap! This is not a mass-production opportunity for brand recognition. This is a much more serious market segment with a much more careful consumer group, and should be approached as such by any brand that wants to explore this emerging category.

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Self-care is not a new term in our industry. With this term, and this revolution, has come the inevitable connotations to mental health – about time I say. It’s nice to be able to have a conversation with someone about mental health and to not feel like there’s a taboo lingering.

The reason it came to my attention recently is thanks to the word “recalibrating”. I was asked “what are the feels at this present moment in time?” To recalibrate is to change the way you do or think about something. So, what’s changing?

In the personal care industry we have always targeted the physical appearances, wrinkles, anti-ageing, younger skin, smooth, glowing, energised.

With the exception of ‘glowing ‘ and ‘energised’ – two words which can be felt inside and out – this list of descriptors focuses on the outside. Our physical appearance. Sometimes known as one’s vanity. Thanks to a rise in the number of products that are embracing individuals’ unique selves as beautiful, full stop, another word, “negativity,” is not welcome around the table anymore. Oh no, negativity is out. Gone. Kaput. See ya later, you were never welcome here anyway.

Focusing on positivity has indeed been proven to lift spirits, change a person’s outlook on their day, and.. well bring positivity to the fore. I know I am speaking on behalf of the whole world when I say that without a bit of positivity, getting through the rough times of the pandemic would have been virtually catastrophic.

The beautiful thing about this series of events, is that it has also brought mental health and wellbeing smack bang into the middle pf the limelight.  Because let’s face it, the pandemic has shown us that it doesn’t matter who you are, how much money you may have or how beautiful you are – you’re not immune to what has been happening to our world.

There’s been a shift in our internal narrative from ‘do I look OK?’, to ‘am I OK?’.

For the record, yes.. you look amazing. Beautiful. Because you are your own unique self. But are you OK inside?

Thanks for asking… and no, I’m not. Everything feels a bit out of control at the moment. I miss travelling. I miss my family. I’m stressed about working from home. The one thing that’s keeping me going in this very moment is knowing that I’m not alone in this struggle, because we’re all talking about it a bit more.

Let that sink in for a moment. We are all talking about it some more. Consumers are talking about this stuff. Consumers are looking glaze-eyed at vanity purchasing and looking to products and brands that connect on a deeper level. They are looking to feel better. Not look better.

So how about this for an interesting association to this exact topic by well-known dermatology brand, Aquaphor.

https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20220307005769/en/Aquaphor-Unveils-First-Ever-Brand-Purpose-Marketing-Campaign

“Inspired by the growing field of “psychodermatology”, Aquaphor understands there is a real symbiotic relationship between our skin health and emotional health: when our skin is healthy we feel good, and when we feel good, our skin is healthy. In today’s COVID-19 world, this undeniable link between emotional health and skin health has been magnified further, as more consumers have become actively health conscious: new research shows that 62% of Americans believe their health is more important to them now than before the pandemic.”

Enter a new ingredient and products on the block.

Inolixir: the wellness elixir for healthy skin – Skin-to-Soul care slowing it down

BASF scientists have harnessed the chaga mushroom’s power for use in skincare products, catering to the worldwide consumer trend of changing perceptions of beauty and the increasing popularity of a more holistic approach.

https://www.basf.com/global/en/media/news-releases/2019/09/p-19-344.html

For the countries that are not regulated to include CBD into our personal care products, Beraca has the next best thing: Beracare CBA – Cannabinoid Active System – which is an active compound with proven efficacy to decrease the effects of premature ageing related to inflammatory stress, as well as being an ingredient with de-stressing and well-being properties.

https://beraca.com/en/news/beraca-to-launch-the-cba-ingredient-a-natural-and-safe-alternative-to-cdb-at-in-cosmetics-global-2020/

Sensityl from Givaudan The sensitive skin good mood influencer

Natural & marine origin, sustainable, great for the planet, good for your skin, good for your mood! Main claims Soothing/Calming , Neuro-soothing, Indirect mood enhancer (through skin calming), Skin reactivity inhibitor

https://www.givaudan.com/fragrance-beauty/active-beauty/products/sensityl

Finished products on the market:

‘Psychodermatology’ is a controversial term, linking brain, mood, and skin conditions is already there in the market, here are a few examples:

• The Tides (Netherlands) launched a range “BrainBodyTM” to replenish and reboot both body and brain. https://www.thetideswellness.com/
• Youth to the people (USA) includes adaptogens in its products to calm the skin. https://www.youthtothepeople.com/
• Loum Beauty – Where there is stress we will bring calm
• We’re on a mission to share the beauty of calm. https://loumbeauty.com/

So the key to this category design and formulation is to include mood enhancing ingredients,  comforting textures, enhancing positive emotions and user experiences, and adding a sensory experience with aroma to compliment the product.

Like other recent revolutions in the modern world, the latest trend is actually built on reframing our perspectives, inviting us to revisit simpler times, and encouraging us to embrace what really matters to us as individuals. As humans. As souls who thrive on connection.

Perfectly summed up by the inimitable Christian Dior, it goes something like this: ‘Happiness is the secret to all beauty. There is no beauty without happiness.’

So – happiness first. Mental health first. Beauty will follow.

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For a few years, the term “sourced locally” carried with it an air of exclusivity, while also giving a nod to those eco-conscious movements that, for a while, seemed to be more of a trend than a consumer demand.

Then COVID happened. Supply chains suffered. And we’ve begun to realise the richness of what’s in our backyard in a more mainstream way.

This does two things: It allows an industry to celebrate ingredients that have been right under people’s noses for a long time, and it creates a demand and interest into further developments of sustainably grown and processed ingredients.

By the way, when I say “our backyard” I am referring to the Pacific in general. Our quiet, somewhat protected corner of the world.

It’s been a long time since I wrote about what’s happening in the industry. A lot has changed! There’s been a lot of pivoting, and some business and industry casualties. But with that comes opportunity: new ways, new ideas and quite a lot of new learnings.

New Zealand has weathered the storm well, a small Island in the South Pacific that was once self-sufficient has had to learn how to do this again. Enter the newly celebrated movement of “locally sourced ingredients”.

Number 3 in Global Cosmetic and Personal Care Trends is The Rise of “Geographic Hotspots”. This is true for any geographic region of the world, and with New Zealand’s reputation for its clean green ingredients – along with those from our South Pacific neighbours – it’s something we can look to leverage from.

A move toward country-branded beauty has also gained steam, and the “made in” stamp on cosmetics products allows brands to capitalize on their own cultural associations.

Globalization and renewed interest in travel and culture helps drive this influential beauty trend and I can assure you the South Pacific is abundant in beautiful exotic ingredients.

We could have never predicted the strain we would have on our supply chain and cosmetic manufacturing. With lead times and freight costs blowing budgets we are forced to look closer to home for new ingredients for cosmetics and highlight our own cultural associations. I think I speak for all of the South Pacific when I say we are absolutely OK with that!

The benefits of sourcing ingredients within our own country is a direct reflection of what the solutions to challenges that COVID has presented us:

• Reducing carbon footprint
• Reduced lead times
• Transparency
• Country ownership/identity

I’d like to introduce some of the new – and locally sourced – natural raw ingredients that have recently caught my eye for personal care formulation.

OceanDerMX range (Stewart Island)

Intriguingly unique, bioavailable and multitasking bio actives that adds a supreme level of 100% natural anti-aging, moisture binding, antioxidant and pollution protecting elements to your cosmetic products by enhanced delivery of its own as well as added actives

Clinically Proven – Lift & Firm, Restore & Protect, Balance & Brighten, Calm & Soothe

https://organicbioactives.com/

VALÉRE KELP (Akaroa), Certified Organic, NZ Harvested, Healthy, Traceable, Sustainable

NZ Giant kelp(Macrocystis pyrifera) is harvested fresh from living kelp forests. It grows abundantly in the cool sheltered waters around the South Island and is one of the fastest growing organisms on the planet. It is  harvest within 1m of the sea surface leaving the bulk of the plant to regrow and remain as shelter for living organisms. Harvesting Giant kelp is like the lawn mowing of the ocean – except the lawn grows back at up to 50cm a day!

After harvesting it is dried gently using air flow and dehumidification. During the drying process, temperatures never go above 30°C. This is to retain the natural flavour and nutrients. It is then simply crushed and sieved to two sizes – Fine & Powder, with an extremely high Iodine content.

https://www.nzkelp.co.nz/valere

NZ EXTRACTS (Marlborough) use the world’s first 100% aqua pure water extraction process to produce gold standard, waste-free products from fruit, berries & plants into multifunctional bio-active ingredients for the food & beverage, health & well-being & beauty & skincare industries.

VINANZA^® BLANC XGS (Upcycling at its best)

Clinically proven by a leading Japanese University:

• Anti-Ageing activity against accelerated ageing by UV Irradiation
• Stimulate collagen production
• Protect Skin Cells from oxidative stress
• Provide low ß-galactosidase activity of ageing maker

https://www.nzextracts.com/beauty-skincare/

MAILELANI COCONUT OIL (Samoa) The Direct Micro Expelling method (DME) is simple and environmentally friendly technique  founded by Kokonut Pacific, bringing “new life from the tree of life” to island coconut producers. With the DME process, virgin coconut oil is extracted only from fresh coconut flesh. The oil that is produced is excellent quality – handmade, natural, raw and unrefined, retaining all the original qualities. The oil is extracted from the coconut within one hour of splitting the seed. Small local teams grate the flesh, dry and load it into a press and hand- press it. The dry coconut residue is great for baking, so nothing gets wasted!

https://mailelani-samoa.com/the-coconut-oil-story/

May the next wave of industry innovation be abundant with the bountiful variety of ingredients and innovation that are – more often than not – right there in front of us.

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How can something that smells so good be the bad smell of the cosmetic formulation world? 

I’ve been asked a lot recently whether or not to add fragrance to products. Once upon a time fragrance was the hero of a product – think highly perfumed pots of Ponds cold cream. But today fragrance is not so much the hero and is instead included in product formulation to support the hero actives and to enhance the product design. I’m also seeing a trend with it being used for “mood beauty” providing an aroma-therapeutic effect.

That led me to think about the increase in clients requesting their product designs to not include a fragrance. In these cases, they’re usually looking for the “less is more” approach and keep on-side with the change in consumer demand.

So, I ask the question, “how can such a beautiful thing such as fragrance or parfum fall so quickly from grace?”

The digital effect

The power of the digital world has become the provider of misinformation and individual opinions, often with no sound or relevant scientific proof. Or worse – with misleading or false information. The word scaremongering comes to mind.

For example, if you type “is fragrance in beauty products bad for you” into Google, you are instantly hit with headings including red-flag words such as “health risk, allergens, toxic chemicals, cancer, hair loss, sensitivity, unsafe” … and the list goes on.

First, let’s answer the question, why are clients and consumers asking for “fragrance-free”?

There are two simple answers:

• • First, because cheaply replicated fragrances which emerged some time ago, and subsequently put into products, are most definitely not good for you
  • Second, because even the most divine, quality fragrance or parfum still contains allergens (including natural). Therefore 100% natural products = zero traditional delicious, evocative, sensual fragrances.

Fragrance was once included in a product formulation to mask the aroma of the other ingredients. Without fragrance, you still have a sometimes-sterile aroma of the emollients, extracts, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives, and other such things. It’s slightly medicinal and quite earthy. I’m sure you know the scent I mean.

But without adding fragrance to your product, you do two things:

1) eliminate the potential for allergens

2) reduce the overall cost of goods

But what a bland world we would live in!

As a product designer and formulator, fragrance completes and compliments my product creations. Many times I’ve sampled a pot of something and I always inhale for the aroma, even when I’m told it is fragrance-free. I’m a pro-natural product gal, but I have to admit I am always disappointed when there is only a slight aroma of the base ingredients.

Balanced fragrance creation demands the use of good quality ingredients, no shortcuts allowed. The wonderful thing is, these days we can have fragrances created with no or low-allergen profiles, and when they’re used at a low percentage governed by global cosmetic regulations, they are the perfect accompaniment to any product.

As mentioned above, the thing that gives fragrance a bad name is the quality that is replicated on the market with cheap copies of fragrances that have the potential to cause consumer issues and products that have included fragrance at a high percentage inclusion resulting in an over-fragranced product.

Positive fragrance

Lucky for us, there are scent-worthy people in the world who are trying to bridge the gap between fine fragrance and natural beauty. Enter Abel Odor – a company set on creating the world’s best 100% natural perfume, without compromising on ethics or aesthetics. Their issues with synthetic fragrance are that they are sourced from fossil fuels which are a non-renewable resource, they are non-biodegradable pollutants, and have links to health concerns. Funnily enough, all the things we don’t think about when inhaling the familiar waft of our favourite scents. But this is good news for the cosmetics industry.

A major global New Zealand haircare brand I recently had the pleasure of consulting with, reduced their fragrance to a very minimal amount to respond to consumer demand. Haircare has always been about fragrance, but now it’s about the surfactant blend, actives and effective functioning on the hair. But together we proved that quality haircare doesn’t have to smell boring – especially when they’ve had some excellent feedback on the way their products smell.

In both examples, we see that there’s no need to completely ditch the fragrance as a knee-jerk reaction to consumer demand. The rise of Clean Beauty is sweeping up various ingredients that were once considered safe and mainstream but personally, I’ve come to the realisation that balance is key and fragrance is something we can all enjoy and consider being part of our cosmetic formulations.

Want to know more? Find out about the sustainable ingredients used to make quality fragrance

To further explore the topic of my last article, which discussed the innovation of merging products within categories to create multifunctional products, this article explores the innovation of cross-category product design – a movement which is set to disrupt some longstanding product categories, I’m sure!

Something that I’ve seen in droves this year, in response to finding ways to navigate our new normal, is the creativity of pivoting or looking outside the box. Re-inventing or re-imagining products that once had their own category is emerging as a trend which aims to provide innovation and efficiencies for both consumers and manufacturers.

The great thing is… anything goes. Product design inspiration can come from anywhere. Who’s to say we can’t blur the lines that have been in place for goodness knows how long? In these examples below, we’re seeing amazingly interesting conceptions that traverse technology, personal care, beverage, lifestyle and food.

Here are some of my favourite examples:

Saint Jane’s Luxury Lip Shine is a lip gloss with skincare benefits. In other words, a hybrid product; infusing colour cosmetics with ingredients that enhance and benefit the skin such as hyaluronic acid, plant extracts, vitamins and the infusion of the new trend, super-ingredient, CBD oil.

Best-selling full-coverage CC cream by It Cosmetics comes with the benefits of a primer, anti-ageing serum, moisturiser, and colour corrector all rolled into one for a single-step base makeup routine. The collagen, peptides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and other antioxidants and vitamins give it its skin-loving properties. If this product works for your skin, why have a shelf of bottles instead?

We all know about the rise of beauty drinks, from collagen shots to beauty elixirs. Start-up brand The New Zealand Distillery launched Adorn Beauty Gin in this same direction. Inspired by botanicals found in luxury New Zealand skincare, The National Distillery Company’s limited release, Adorn Gin, celebrates nature’s power to beautify.

Haircare

The latest buzz of cross-category product designing is “skinification” of hair. For a long time designing hair care products was all about the hair shaft; making it soft, shiny, manageable, but this move is towards the scalp and looking at what it needs to be healthy and in turn, create healthy hair growth. In this trend we see the transfer of skincare ingredients and products moving to scalp care.  Serums, masks, exfoliants, clays, AHA’s. It makes complete sense to use clinically-proven actives for the skin of the scalp, which is thick and hair-bearing and contains numerous sebaceous glands.

Collagen

Collagen has also become a buzzword of the beauty-wellbeing industry.

We now see collagen across all categories from skincare to beverages (coffee, cocktails), food (everything from bliss balls to entire meals) and – of course – supplements.

Evonik has achieved a major biotech breakthrough with a new animal-free and fermentation-based collagen platform. This is an advanced collagen platform that is made via fermentation-based processes and devoid of animal- or human-derived materials.

Repurposed ingredients

Another wonderful thing about the rise in the trend for seeking efficiencies is that food waste is becoming more widely accepted and sought after to repurpose into everything from hand soap – made using bars’ leftover citrus peels – to body scrub – made using coffee shops’ leftover coffee grounds. These are two examples that have been around a while now. But what about other by-products and waste? There’s bound to be plenty of opportunities here for efficiency and re-purposing.

The other amazing thing about encouraging efficiency is that products can become something for everyone. Everybody. Regardless of gender, skin-type or preference. Check out NOTO Botanics for innovation in skincare tied to bigger issues that our world is facing.

Speaking of multifunctional (again), this New Zealand brand that I was fortunate enough to work with, Good Cube, created a next-level multi-functional product: cleanser, moisturiser, body wash, shampoo and shaving bar all in one. This one belongs in everyone’s toiletry bag for a summer getaway!

Edible Products

Something else that has really piqued my interest is the collaboration of products that can be used externally but taken internally, too. Adaptogens, the buzzy wellness supplements everybody is talking about right now (think mushrooms). Mushroom Face Mask and Tonic is the first purifying face mask that doubles as an adaptogen tonic. Made with a mixture of mushroom extracts, cacao, herbal gotu kola, and activated charcoal (among other powders), this is a product that is just plain cool.

A face mask so pure you can eat it?!

What about taking it to the next level with completely edible skincare? No fillers, no plastics, no water, no non-food ingredients. Mix with water for a face mask that smells like chocolate cake 2-3 times a week. Yes, you can lick your fingers, or even make a mug of this brownie batter treat. Yum!

So next time you’re designing a product, take some time to look at what’s happening in other categories and in other industries to see how these could potentially cross-over into your product designs to discover and disrupt crossover into new categories. And let’s have fun while we do it.

Enjoyed this? Take a look at Stacey’s previous article about how sustainability is not just about packaging

I spend a lot of time with Gen Z in my role as a teaching fellow of Chemical Formulation Design at Canterbury University. As I myself am from Gen X, it’s always interesting seeing the world through their eyes.

Though there’s been a general increase in the awareness of sustainability practices in the world of health and beauty, for my generation it’s been something of a learned perspective. The cool thing about Gen Z is that this perspective is their own.

What has really stood out to me with these young and enthusiastic future movers and shakers of our planet, is not the urge to find recyclable, reusable packaging but how to minimize consumption of products and other material things in their lives.

And that led me to thinking about the products we are designing and formulating for the future. Sustainability is not necessarily about packaging of well-known formulations. What about the ingredients themselves?

Recently our 2nd-year students were issued an assignment to create a household or agricultural product. Most of the class created a waterless condensed prototype cleaning product which could be activated by adding water and would do the job of five products. An inspired idea!

We have so many products to choose from when we go to the shops and new variations of existing things launching every other day. Overwhelming is the word that comes to mind. I think efficiency is something that everyone can be excited about.

Is it the beginning of the end of the 12-step beauty regime? Or the introduction of a cleaning product to replace the 10 in our cupboards?

Enter multifunctional formulations, reconstituted beauty, waterless beauty, dry powder skincare, water-activated beauty, and household concentrates.

There are obvious benefits with these solutions: they’re lighter to ship, there’s less packaging, they use low-energy manufacturing, they’re preservative-free, it’s a DIY product, and – as one of my students pointed out – “why pay for water when it’s free?!”

But of course, there are some implications to the overall viability of the production of products in this way which may not suit the smaller production houses.

The products are likely to be more expensive to manufacture as larger volumes of raw ingredients will be required. And there’s the risk of inhalation with dry products too. It’s possible that we will be limited to what products we can manufacture in this form, depending on raw ingredients and the viability of the finished goods. As always we await to see the consumer demand, and the feedback as we enter this new category.

Below is a list of the latest commercial products available, and also some of our ingredient supplier prototypes getting ahead of the curve.

A leader in this category is OWA HAIRCARE

Formulating with: sodium cocoyl isethionate, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, triethyl citrate*, hydrolyzed rice protein, maltodextrin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, ribes nigrum bud extract*, pelargonium graveolens flower oil*, eugenia caryophyllus (clove) leaf oil*, cananga odorata flower oil*, sodium phytate, sodium dehydroacetate

NUDE & CRUDE SHOWER POWDER

Ingredients (for Uplifiting Lemongrass Shower Powder): Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Kaolin, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Coco Glucoside, Avena sativa Kernel (Oatmeal) Flour, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Herb (Lemongrass) Oil, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice.

BLUELAND

Citric Acid, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Benzoate, Algin, Polyethylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

an-hydra MICROBIOME CLEANSER – Sustainable Skincare simplified

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate*, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate*, L-Ascorbic Acid, Sea Silt*, Maltodextrin*, Lactobacillus Ferment*, Oryza Sativia (Rice) Starch*, Mannitol, Microcrystaline Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Collodial Oatmeal*, Bentonite Clay*, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate*, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil*, Sodium Hyaluronate*, Aloe Barbadensis, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract *Ecocert.

Azelis Eco Balance Cleansing Tablet/Powder using Corn PO4 PHB and Maisita 9040

Wash time for hair and skin will never be the same. A unique formulation utilising green powdered mild surfactants, combined with Corn PO4 PHB and Maisita 9040 allowing tablet formation or free-flowing powder without inhalation issues. The water-free formulation removes the unnecessary transportation of water and equally minimises packaging, significantly reducing the carbon footprint. The consumer then has the flexibility to use the product on the go, or at home with ease.

BASF Exfoliating Powder to Foam using Plantapon SUS and Jordapon SCI Powder 

Formulation can be found by following the title link above.

CRODA Powder Serum

A powder serum that easily melts on skin when applied with a facial toner. Apply on wet fingers or directly onto the face and gently massage in. This one-of-a-kind formulation contains HydrolactinTM 2500, a hydrolysed milk protein that nourishes the skin. SolaveilTM CTP-1 is an inorganic UVB filter that provides true transparency on skin and also acts as a sensory modifier.

Ingredients that will be in demand for this new category will be starches, clay, milk powders, dry actives and freeze-dried botanicals.

That shortlist itself is testament to the innovation in this area. Efficiency and travel-friendliness are things that come to mind. (Perhaps in time for when we’re freely able to travel again!) There’s also the attraction of being able to mix your own products (i.e. add water and off you go) at home at your own leisure.

But, coming back to my original thought: it’s our planet that we need to keep in mind with the creation of more and more products. Saving water in the formulation and production of products across this category is an exciting prospect. Along with the well-known and accepted changes to packaging efficiencies in the market, this is the kind of innovation that reminds me why I love this industry!

Enjoy this article? We think you might enjoy ‘The drive for innovative self-care with naturally-sourced ingredients from New Zealand’

The definition of silicone states that it is a synthetic material which harbours qualities that deter changes in temperature and chemical penetration. At face value, it certainly sounds like an ingredient you don’t really want to be putting in or on your body.

While I can’t comment on whether or not silicones should be used in products for internal use, let’s not forget that these materials have been used in cosmetic formulations for 70 odd years, without anything like the bad press they get today.

So what’s the big deal? To silicone or not to silicone? Is this the formulation question of 2020?

For chemists, they are wonderful ingredients that provide the slip, smooth feel and aesthetics to products. But for marketers creating content in a world of clean, green, natural goodness, they’ve become unwelcome hazards carrying connotations of danger and dirtiness.

Recent bad press that I’ve seen includes claims that silicones burn the hair, cause fire and hair melting. The word scaremongering comes to mind. A good cosmetic chemist knows how to formulate with silicones within regulations to create a fully compliant and safe-to-use product.

As a unique product designer with a foot in both the cosmetic chemist camp and the marketing camp I have found this situation to be an internal struggle!

I recently worked on a range of haircare products for a client that leads with a strong, modern, fresh brand. According to silicones’ bad press, they didn’t really have a place in the formulations. The project was proceeding incredibly smoothly (forgive the pun) until we got to the hero product, a Perfume Hair Oil. And herein lies the problem. It simply wasn’t an option to only use natural plant oils, which would have only weighed the hair down and made the hair greasy. That’s not what I call an efficacious product!

Silicones have a place in certain products. And if used correctly in formulations and by consumers, they don’t really deserve any press at all.

What are the options here?

If “clean, green and natural” is what consumers demand, then they’re going to miss out on a great perfume hair oil, and many other wonderful products too.

If manufacturers choose to use natural alternatives to silicones (I’ll get to these in a moment) then they can expect the cost of goods to go up significantly. Will their audiences still be willing to pay for this alternative?

Or, perhaps the happy medium is to mix it up. Perhaps a hair cleansing product could factor in a natural silicone while the follow-up treatment product in the range has traditional silicone.

From my perspective that might mean one project – a big commercial brand with a low price point selling millions of units – doing silicone-free shampoo, but silicone treatments, and another project – a boutique, high-end premium brand doing a completely green and clean silicone free range.

I think both sit beautifully in the world of consumer demand and perception.

Here’s the latest in Silicone and Silicone alternatives:

SILICON

• Cyclomethicone

• Dimethicone

• Amodimethicone

• Phenyl Trimethicone

ATTRIBUTES

• Volatility & low viscosity Fast spreading Decreased dry time Active carrier

INOLEX ALTERNATIVES

• LexFeel TM WOW-A & LexFeel TM WOW-A DT LexFeel TM D4 & LexFeel TM D5

When Formulating for Haircare

• Improved wet & dry combing       LexFeel TM WOW-A & LexFeel TM WOW-A DT

• Improved wet & dry combing Luster & sheen

Replacements for Cyclopentasiloxane & Cyclotetrasiloxane is LEXFEEL ®N50 by Innolex and other alternatives are BASF Coco-Caprylate https://www.carecreations.basf.com/product-formulations/products/products-detail/CETIOL%20LC/30527919

Cetiol Ultimate (Tridecane, Undecane) https://www.carecreations.basf.com/product-formulations/product-highlights/product-highlights-detail/CETIOL-ULTIMATE/30597825

A new kid on the block recently Citropol® 1A is the first commercially available ingredient in the Citropol®class. It has excellent spreadability, compatibility in formulation, and rubs to absorbancy with ease.

Citropol® 1A gives way to the skin without resistance and results in a high-gloss effect owing to their high refractive index. Its after-feel is defined by slipperiness and an absence of stickiness or tackiness. Citropol® 1A is biodegradable, biocompatible, and bio-renewable. https://p2science.com/citropols/

As always, the consumers will decide which way they go but I do see a movement towards more education from chemists online to provide facts behind silicones and their safety of use to prevent the negative press that often lands so heavily on ingredients that some products simply couldn’t live without!

Need more formulation guidance? Watch these!

As we’ve watched the world adjust to a new everyday accessory – the mask – the focus has been on their safety and, unsurprisingly, the way they look when paired with our favourite outfits.

What we didn’t see coming was the fact that our skin is now having to deal with a new environment beneath the masks which happens to be the perfect environment for breakouts. How long will it be before the first “Maskne” combatting products hit our retail stores?

The Tokyo Weekender, a popular English beauty magazine in Japan, has declared maskne “one of 2020’s most widespread skincare problems,” and sufferers have taken to Twitter and Instagram to gripe about their new crops of pimples popping up. Even if you’ve been spared so far, the summer’s sweat-inducing temperatures and increasing humidity are poised to make many complexions worse.

So what’s causing it? The scientific term is “acne mechanica,” meaning the mechanical friction of the mask fabric rubbing against your skin is causing breakouts. “It’s creating a warm, moist environment for extra skin oils to proliferate, and for bacteria to become trapped, thus clogging pores.”

The good news is we are lucky to have some beautiful natural ingredients to help with this new predicament.

Think natural or naturally-inspired ingredients that are proven to support stressed and challenged skin. And formulations to prep the skin and provide a healthy barrier to the skin. I hope that if we see products coming into market to combat this condition that they’ll be using the best of what’s available to extend some kindness to our skin.

Here are my picks of some favourite ingredients:

• Light nourishing plant oils such as Rosehip Oil, Bakuchiol – aka the New Plant-Based Retinol alternative – Macadamia Oil, Chia Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil and Almond Oil.

• Natural extracts and actives to soothe and calm – Turmeric, Echinacea, Calendula, Chamomile (Bisabolol), Pre- and Pro- Biotics (BIODINE V), Cucumber extract, Aloe Vera, Colloidal Oatmeal and Allantoin.

• Gentle effective cleansing antibacterial and exfoliating actives: Salicylic Acid, Citrus Fruit enzymes, Tea Tree Oil, Mānuka Oil, Kombucha, Activated Charcoal and Witch Hazel.

During my time with Trilogy International I worked with one of my all-time favourite ingredient blends which I used for formulations as part of a full calming skin range, which always received fantastic reviews.

SyriCalm CLR (PC)

SyriCalm is a natural product derived from Poria cocos and Phragmites. It effectively reduces inflammation and strongly supports skin in dealing with external stresses. Additionally, SyriCalm is designed to give effective support where the skin is challenged by environmental stress, e.g. shaving, depilation or daily hygiene. It helps the skin recover its natural balance.

Available as SyriCalm CLR (PC) and SyriCalm CLR.

INCI Name :

SyriCalm CLR (PC): Water, Phragmites Communis Extract, Poria Cocos Extract

SyriCalm CLR: Water, Phragmites Karka Extract, Poria Cocos Extract

Dosage :

3.0 %

pH range :

3.0 – 8.0

Solubility :

water-soluble

Preservation :

sodium benzoate

In conformity with the Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics available at http://cosmetics.ecocert.com;

COSMOS approved raw material. NATRUE-certified. Halal-certified.  CLR Certificates

https://www.clr-berlin.com/products/syricalm-clr-pc/

These are some of my favourite natural skincare brands which could inspire natural “Maskne” brands:

Pure Peony Root Skin Clarifying Face Mask – to cleanse and brighten.

With healing properties of New Zealand organically-grown white peony root, essential oils of bergamot and mandarin, aqua, avocado oil, cocoa butter, emulsifiers and natural preservative GeoGuard.

https://purepeony.com/

Carbon White Gentle Foaming Jelly Face Cleanser – to deeply clean, detoxify and help clear impurities from the skin.

With New Zealand native Kawakawa extract to clarify and tone, angelica root extract to soften and soothe – leaving skin refreshed and energised, skin-boosting jojoba oil to infuse the skin with potent vitamins of A, D & E, skin conditioning and skin brightening licorice root extract providing anti-inflammatory properties to help soothe irritated skin.

https://www.carbonwhite.co.nz

Having the best ingredients and good formulations is one thing, but it’s also important to adopt a skincare routine that fits your lifestyle – especially as our skin is facing additional stress – to give your skin the best chance of maintaining its natural beauty.

• Skin prep – clean your skin thoroughly before and after wearing a mask. If you’re wearing one for a long period of time, don’t hesitate to wipe your skin down with a micellar water and give it a spritz with a face mist every so often
• Create a barrier – layering your skincare can also help create a barrier between your skin and what’s going on outside of it – whether it’s in a mask or not
• Treat rashes and breakouts ASAP – use a healing ointment or balm overnight to calm down stressed skin
• Wash your hands or use a sanitiser before you touch your face. Every time.
• Wear a fresh mask – whenever available, or wear a washable fabric mask – and make sure that you wash it after each wearing

It’s safe to say that none of us expected such a change to affect details such as our daily skincare routine, but there’s no reason for the health of our skin, and our outward beauty to suffer just because we adjust to a new normal. Despite the strange times we find ourselves in, we can also consider this an opportunity for new innovation using the wonderful natural ingredients that we’re lucky to be able to use.

Want to know more about new ingredient launches? Check out our latest personal care ingredients round-up.