In an era marked by heightened emotional stress and environmental pressures, prioritising wellness and self-care has become an essential part of daily life.

In fact, 80% of global consumers now prioritise health as a lifestyle, with wellness-driven products increasingly being incorporated into self-care routines (Global Wellness Institute, 2023).

This shift is also reshaping the beauty industry, as wellness becomes a shared priority in skincare. Moving beyond products that focus solely on external appearance but addressing both external and internal stressors in the pursuit of longevity.

Wellness isn’t being recognised as just a passing trend, it’s becoming a lifestyle. 62% of consumers now seek skincare products that not only improve their appearance but also enhance emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023).

This growing demand for products that deliver both physical and mental health benefits together has led to the rise of wellness-driven skincare, which is pushing the boundaries of beauty and wellness.

Wellness-driven skincare is expected to dominate the market, reaching $200 billion by 2030 as consumers prioritise their overall health (Statista, 2023).

While regional regulations traditionally define skincare (under cosmetics) as products aimed solely at improving the physical appearance of the skin, this view is evolving, especially with technological advancements and ingredient efficacy.

Consumers are actively looking for solutions that go beyond just the surface of their skin. They want products that align with mindful, self-care rituals that support overall well-being and deliver internal benefits.

As a result, this beauty-wellness intersection is transforming the industry and formulators have new opportunities to innovate and meet this evolving demand.

The growing understanding of how ingredients affect skin function, including stress-induced skin concerns and the mind-skin connection, is pushing formulations beyond the surface. Wellness-driven skincare is creating new avenues for formulators to explore.

The Science Behind the Mind-Skin Connection

The mind-skin connection is more than just a buzzword, it’s scientifically studied. Chronic stress triggers the release of cortisol, a hormone that disrupts the skin barrier function, increases inflammation and accelerates ageing by breaking down collagen (Chen & Lyga, 2014).

A 2022 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that stress-induced cortisol can lead to dryness, sensitivity and even conditions like acne and eczema.

This growing understanding of how emotions impact skin health is driving demand for products that address both external and internal stressors.

For example, neurocosmetic ingredients like peptides have been shown to reduce stress-induced skin tension, offering a dual-action approach to skincare (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019).

Market Momentum: By the Numbers

The global wellness industry is valued at $5.6 trillion (2023), growing at a 10% CAGR, with skincare as a major driver (Global Wellness Institute).

Consumers now look for skincare products that also improve emotional well-being (Mintel, 2023), while adaptogen-infused product launches have seen significant growth in recent years, reflecting the rising demand (In-cosmetics Global, 2023).

In the Asia-Pacific region, where wellness-driven skincare is particularly popular, the market is projected to grow at an 8.5% CAGR through 2030 (Statista, 2023).

South Korean brands are leading the charge with products that combine hydration, anti-ageing and stress-relieving benefits.

Regulatory Considerations

As the demand for wellness-driven skincare grows, brands must balance innovation with compliance as regulatory compliance becomes increasingly important.

Claims like “stress-relieving” or “mood-boosting” must be substantiated, pushing formulators and manufacturers to invest in clinical trials and comply with regulations like EU 655/2013 to avoid being classified as medicinal products.

Furthermore, aligning with ISO 16128 standards for natural origin claims is essential for building consumer trust and meeting sustainability expectations.

The Feel-Good Factor: Self-Care as Empowerment

Modern consumers view skincare as a form of self-care, a daily act of mindfulness, promoting both skin health and emotional balance.

For formulators, this means understanding the growing mind-skin connection and pairing ingredients with calming or energising properties with tactile textures in their formulations.

This shift is creating new opportunities to innovate and aligns with the “emotional beauty” trend, where 74% of beauty consumers prefer “skin wellness” products over traditional anti-ageing claims (BeautyMatter, 2024).

Star Ingredients in Wellness Skincare Formulations

As wellness becomes a key driver in skincare, ingredients like adaptogens, neurocosmetics and aromatherapeutic ingredients are taking center stage. These ingredients help the skin respond to environmental and emotional stressors, which are increasingly linked to skin concerns.

Adaptogens

Already becoming a global stress-busting powerhouse, adaptogens are ingredients that help the skin adapt to stress, reduce inflammation and support long-term resilience.

In skincare, adaptogenic ingredients like Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) and Rhodiola Rosea are gaining popularity, with clinical evidence supporting their anti-inflammatory and oxidative damage-reducing properties (Panossian et al., 2021).

EU regulations (EC No 1223/2009) ensuring efficacy claims like “calming” or “resilience-boosting” are substantiated with robust clinical evidence. This reinforces consumer trust and ensures compliance with regional regulatory standards.

Neurocosmetics

Neurocosmetics aim to improve skin health while also enhancing emotional balance, relaxation and mental well-being through sensory experiences. These multifunctional ingredients interact with the skin’s sensory receptors, which can positively affect mood and reduce stress levels.

Neurocosmetics can trigger a positive response in the brain while supporting skin health, creating an essential part of wellness skincare.

For example, peptides can help reduce stress-induced tension, while Cannabidiol (CBD) is known for its skin-calming properties (Baswan et al., 2020).

Aromatherapeutic Ingredients

Mood-enhancing essential oils like chamomile extract and lavender oil provide aromatherapeutic benefits, reducing anxiety and promoting relaxation.

These ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into skincare (within recommended dermal limits) to boost mental health through sensual olfactory stimulation and enhancing the overall self-care experience.

The Future is Ingredients Bridging the Gap Offering Both Skincare and Wellness Benefits

The future of skincare is undoubtedly intertwined with wellness, with the growing mind-skin connection becoming a central focus for formulators and manufacturers.

As science and consumer demands evolve, the industry has an exciting opportunity to innovate, creating products that go beyond surface-level beauty and address overall health and well-being.

References:

Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169.

Baswan SM, Klosner AE, Glynn K, Rajgopal A, Malik K, Yim S, Stern N. Therapeutic Potential of Cannabidiol (CBD) for Skin Health and Disorders. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Dec 8;13:927-942. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S286411. PMID: 33335413; PMCID: PMC7736837.

Panossian AG, Efferth T, Shikov AN, Pozharitskaya ON, Kuchta K, Mukherjee PK, Banerjee S, Heinrich M, Wu W, Guo DA, Wagner H. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress- and aging-related diseases. Med Res Rev. 2021 Jan;41(1):630-703. doi: 10.1002/med.21743. Epub 2020 Oct 25. PMID: 33103257; PMCID: PMC7756641.

Truong VL, Jeong WS. Red ginseng (Panax ginseng Meyer) oil: A comprehensive review of extraction technologies, chemical composition, health benefits, molecular mechanisms, and safety. J Ginseng Res. 2022 Mar;46(2):214-224. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2021.12.006. Epub 2021 Dec 17. PMID: 35509821; PMCID: PMC9058829.

Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066.

Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702. PMID: 34451799; PMCID: PMC8400021.

Ebrahimi H, Mardani A, Basirinezhad MH, Hamidzadeh A, Eskandari F. The effects of Lavender and Chamomile essential oil inhalation aromatherapy on depression, anxiety and stress in older community-dwelling people: A randomized controlled trial. Explore (NY). 2022 May-Jun;18(3):272-278. doi: 10.1016/j.explore.2020.12.012. Epub 2021 Jan 9. PMID: 33454232.

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The start of the year presents an opportunity for the cosmetics and personal care industry to reflect on past innovations, identify new gaps and cultivate fresh ideas.

Product innovation refers to developing new or significantly improved products to meet market demands, address existing problems or create entirely new markets.

According to the Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report (2023), global sales in this sector are projected to reach $937.1 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.7%.

It is a critical driver of business growth and competitive advantage, where consumer preferences and scientific and technological advancements are constantly evolving.

Yet, as consumer preferences continue to evolve, product innovations must also adapt – not only to meet these demands but also to address the pressing challenges of rapid innovation cycles, product oversaturation, consumer fatigue and the environmental toll of overconsumption.

Multi-functional Products

The skincare sector in particular is witnessing a key transition towards multi-functional products favouring efficacy and substantiation, efficiency over complexity, driven by busy lifestyles and a desire to reduce environmental impact.
Multi-functional products are developed to address multiple concerns and/or provide multiple benefits within a single formulation. Examples include:

• A moisturiser that hydrates, brightens and protects against UV damage.
• A serum that combines anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.
• A cleanser with exfoliating and moisturising capabilities.

Why It Matters in Skincare

• Efficiency: Saves time by reducing the number of steps in a routine.
• Convenience: Combines multiple benefits in one product.
• Sustainability: Reduces overconsumption, packaging waste and resource usage.

These products are reshaping product innovation and influencing purchasing behaviours by offering thoughtful and purposeful solutions.

According to Credence Research (2023), the global market for functional cosmetics, including multi-functional skincare, is projected to grow to $68.1 billion by 2032, reflecting a CAGR of 3.06%. Similarly, the hybrid makeup market, which includes products offering skincare benefits alongside cosmetic functions, is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1% by 2030 (Grand View Research, 2023).

Despite the rapid pace of product launches, these figures underscore a notable consumer shift – people want fewer products that do more. For formulators and manufacturers, there is a clear opportunity to drive innovation by developing impactful products that withstand the test of time. Incorporating compatible ingredients into a single formulation demonstrates how multi-functional solutions can deliver both efficacy and convenience.

Challenges in Rethinking Innovation

While the advantages of multi-functional products are obvious, they present both opportunities and challenges for formulators and manufacturers, requiring careful consideration of various factors:

• Ingredient Compatibility

Combining multiple active ingredients into one stable and effective formulation is a complex task, requiring pH balancing and delivery optimisation to maintain stability and efficacy.

• Consumer Expectations

Consumers have raised the bar for communication and are digitally informed, they expect content that is fast, relevant and authentically will keep them engaged and coming back for more. Formulators and manufacturers alike are encouraged to communicate the science behind their multi-functional products, avoiding unsubstantiated claims.

• Advanced Technologies

Delivery systems can enhance the performance of combined actives. These systems ensure that each active ingredient retains its potency and targets the skin effectively.

• Sustainability

True innovation also means considering the entire product lifecycle. From sourcing sustainable raw materials to incorporating eco-friendly packaging, every step should reflect a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Despite these challenges, several strategies can help formulators and manufacturers deliver impactful innovations.

Solutions: Key Elements for Success

1. Synergistic Ingredient Combinations

Successful multi-functional products rely on synergistic ingredient pairings.

For example:

• Niacinamide and Peptides: Working together, these ingredients boost the skin’s barrier function and support skin longevity.
• Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: This combination delivers intense hydration and reinforces the skin’s natural barrier, effectively addressing dryness.

2. Advanced Delivery Systems

Technological advancements can allow formulators to combine ingredients delivering protective benefits without compromising stability. They allow formulators to use fewer raw materials with higher yields, minimising environmental impact while maximising product effectiveness.

3. Sustainability at the Core

Brands can reduce their environmental footprint by utilising refillable packaging to minimise waste and incorporating biodegradable materials into both packaging and product design. This approach has the potential to lower raw material usage, shipping costs and development expenses by streamlining ingredient selection and considering the entire product lifecycle of a product from its foundation.

Marketing Opportunities

• Ingredient combinations such as exfoliating acids and antioxidants demonstrate the growing demand for multi-functional products by refining pores, brightening skin and providing hydration. A single formulation can also tackle elasticity, pigmentation and overall skin health, making it even more appealing to consumers.

• Target demographics like millennials make up a significant proportion of the population in many countries around the world and prioritise products with substantiated claims and long-term benefits.

Rethinking product innovation is an essential strategy for staying competitive in today’s cosmetic and personal care landscape. Multi-functional, multi-tasking skincare offers a clear pathway to address consumer demands for simplicity, efficacy and sustainability while reducing environmental impact.

By adopting advanced technologies or methods of delivery, prioritising sustainability and focusing on ingredient synergy, formulators and manufacturers can shape a future where innovation aligns with values.

Now is the perfect moment to rethink product innovation that resonates with consumers and redefines industry standards.

References:

1. Credence Research. (2023). Functional Cosmetics Market Growth.
2. Grand View Research. (2023). Hybrid Makeup Market Report.
3. Harris Williams. (2023). Consumer Spending Trends in Beauty.
4. Ainapure, A. (2023). Beauty and Personal Care Products Market Size, Share and Trend Analysis Report

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Halal cosmetics represent a burgeoning niche in the beauty industry, driven by ethical and permissible production principles under Islamic law and specifically aimed at Muslim consumers.

The demand for Halal cosmetics is driven by a growing global Muslim population, with over 2 billion and representing almost 28.7% of the world’s population.

This represents a vast, untapped market in many countries. Euromonitor identifies Halal cosmetics as targeting one of the fastest-growing consumer groups worldwide.

The global Halal cosmetics market was valued at $42.39 billion in 2023 and is expected to reach $47.76 billion in 2024. By 2032, it is projected to grow significantly to approximately $115.03 billion. Exhibiting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 11.61%. In 2023, Asia Pacific dominated the market with a substantial market share of 64.87%.

Understanding Halal

The term “Halal” means “permissible” in Arabic and is used to designate products and practices under Islamic law. While commonly associated with food and drink, the concept of Halal also extends to cosmetics and personal care products.

Halal cosmetics are formulated without prohibited (Haram) ingredients derived from sources such as pork or alcohol, adhering to specific ethical and cleanliness requirements throughout their production, packaging, labelling, distribution and logistics processes.

This comprehensive approach ensures that from the initial stages of ingredient sourcing to the final sale of the product, the full product life cycle complies with Halal standards. By maintaining this systematic adherence, Halal cosmetics uphold their integrity and fulfil religious standards throughout the entirety of their supply chain.

According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2023/2024, Muslim consumers spent about $2.29 trillion in 2022 across various sectors, including cosmetics. This growing demand highlights the opportunity for brands and manufacturers to cater to one of the fastest-growing consumer markets globally.

As more consumers seek products that align with their ethical and religious beliefs, the market for Halal cosmetics expands, offering several opportunities:

• Market Expansion: Halal certification opens doors to markets in Muslim-majority countries and among Muslim consumers worldwide, providing a significant opportunity for growth in the cosmetics industry.

• Consumer Trust and Loyalty: Halal certification builds trust and loyalty among Muslim consumers who prioritise adherence to their religious principles. This trust can translate into brand loyalty and increased market share.

• Ethical Appeal: Halal cosmetics appeal to a broader audience beyond Muslim consumers, including those who prioritise ethical and quality beauty products.

The rigorous standards for purity and ethical sourcing resonate with conscientious consumers globally.

Regulatory Requirements

Regulatory requirements for Halal cosmetics vary by region but generally follow a comprehensive certification process covering all aspects of the product lifecycle from sourcing to distribution.

There are approximately 57 global certification agencies authorised to certify products according to Halal cosmetics standards. Certification bodies, such as the Islamic Services of America (ISA) and other local and international entities, rigorously review ingredients and inspect production facilities to ensure compliance with Halal standards.

In countries with significant Muslim populations, such as Indonesia and Malaysia, regulations are particularly stringent. Since 2019, Indonesia has introduced mandatory Halal certification and labelling rules, which have set a precedent and opened new channels for market growth. The Department of Islamic Development Malaysia (JAKIM) is a prominent certifying body within Malaysia ensuring cosmetic products meet Halal standards.

Certification ensures that products meet the required standards of purity, safety and ethical sourcing. Key elements considered during certification include:

• Ingredient Sourcing: Ingredients must not come from prohibited (Haram) sources. For example, Halal standards strictly prohibit pork and its derivatives. Animal-derived ingredients must originate from animals slaughtered according to Islamic traditions, which involve the draining of blood to eliminate toxins and potential diseases.

• Manufacturing Process: The entire production process must be free from contamination with prohibited substances. This includes ensuring that manufacturing equipment and storage facilities are not used for both Halal and non-Halal products without proper cleaning procedures.

• Packaging and Labelling: Products must be clearly labelled as Halal, often including certifications from recognised Halal certification bodies. Halal labelling in cosmetics extends beyond the controversial “free from” category, which includes claims such as “free from alcohol” or “free from pork products.” This transparency helps Muslim consumers make informed choices.

Adhering to Halal cosmetic standards ensures compliance with regulations in Muslim-majority countries, facilitating smoother market entry and operations. Offering Halal-certified products can differentiate brands in a crowded marketplace, appealing to conscious consumers seeking high standards of quality and ethics.

Implementation in Formulations

Implementing Halal standards in cosmetic formulations requires careful selection and sourcing of ingredients. Here are key considerations:

• Prohibited Ingredients: Alcohol and pork-derived ingredients are strictly prohibited. Even incidental contact with these substances during manufacturing is not allowed.

• Permissible Animal-derived Ingredients: Ingredients such as Lanolin and beeswax are permissible if sourced ethically. Other animal-derived ingredients such as gelatine, collagen and keratin are acceptable only if the animals were slaughtered according to Islamic traditions.

• Microbiological Ingredients: Ingredients like Hyaluronic acid, derived from microbial fermentation, are accepted under specific conditions. Manufacturers must ensure these processes do not involve prohibited substances or derivatives of pork and alcohol.

As the Halal cosmetics market continues to grow, it offers significant opportunities for brands and manufacturers to innovate and strengthen consumer trust and loyalty. These products not only satisfy the religious obligations of Muslim consumers but also align with the increasing demand for ethical choices, positioning them well for global expansion.

With Asia Pacific leading the market in 2023 with a dominant 64.87% share and a robust compound annual growth rate of 11.61%, the future looks promising for Halal cosmetics to continue their upward trajectory in the beauty industry.

References:

1. ISA Halal. (2023). A glimpse into the global Halal industry 2023. Retrieved from https://www.isahalal.com/news-events/blog/glimpse-global-halal-industry-2023

2. DinarStandard. (2024). 2024 global Halal market trends: Highlights from DinarStandard report. Retrieved from https://www.halaltimes.com/2024-global-halal-market-trends-highlights-from-dinarstandards-report/

3. Alzeer, J., & Hadeed, K. A. (2021). “Ethical and hygiene aspects of Halal food.” Trends in Food Science & Technology, 113, 208-216.

4. Golnaz, R., Zainalabidin, M., Nasir Shamsudin, M., & Mad Nasir, S. (2010). “Non-Muslims’ awareness of Halal principles and related food products in Malaysia.” International Food Research Journal, 17(3), 667-674.

5. Husain, R., Ghani, N. I. A., & Zainuddin, N. F. (2017). “Halal cosmetics: A review on ingredients, production, and certification.” Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(1), 1-13.

6. Wilson, J. A., & Liu, J. (2011). “The challenges of Islamic branding: navigating emotions and Halal.” Journal of Islamic Marketing, 2(1), 28-42.

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Whoever said beauty is only skin deep has never heard of Neurocosmetics. The link between the skin and mind is one of the biggest trends in beauty and personal care right now.

Neurocosmetics refers to a specialised category of skincare products that are designed to interact with the skin’s nervous system. A ground-breaking approach to skincare formulations that focuses on the intricate relationship between the skin and the brain often referred to as the “skin-brain axis”.

The skin is not just a waterproof barrier that protects our body from harmful environmental factors and microbial invasions, it also functions to regulate our body temperature. It is one of the body’s largest organs with its own immune system and a vast network of nerve cells that communicate directly with your brain and can sense and respond to various triggers.

As a sensory and protective organ, it is capable of feeling touch, pain, heat, and cold. This is possible because of its dense network of nerves consisting of different types of receptors and nerve fibres located within the dermis. The skin senses various stimuli and transmits this sensory information to the brain for processing.

Neurocosmetics transcend beyond the traditional role of improving skin appearance that targets just superficial issues like wrinkles or dehydration. They enhance the longevity of skin health and well-being by using specific ingredients that influence the neural receptors in the skin.

These receptors detect different triggers like temperature, pressure and pain, creating sensations such as cooling, warming or relief from discomfort. Sensory ingredients can trigger pleasurable sensory experiences (cooling and warming) impacting both the skin’s sensory perception and the product’s perceived efficacy.

When these products activate skin receptors, they can modulate skin cell functions and directly affect nerve endings. This changes how neurotransmitters, the brain’s chemical messengers are released.

Special neuron cells in the skin can become activated by stress or irritation, releasing neurotransmitters (chemicals) that alter the skin’s appearance and texture. This can impair the skin’s barrier function and affect our mood by causing stress through the release of hormones such as cortisol.

Cell-communicating ingredients are versatile, actively working to reduce inflammation and relax expression muscles, which contributes to smoother skin and balanced cortisol levels.

Neuropeptides are specialised molecules that are biomimetic and can mimic the natural processes in the body, like those that calm down nerve signals. Other ingredients can interact with nerve endings in the skin, influencing cellular activities such as collagen production and skin barrier enhancement.

Engaging the senses through the smell and feel of a product can have a positive impact on the nervous system and well-being. Tactile and olfactory ingredients can influence the texture and scent of products and play significant roles in the sensory impact of Neurocosmetics, influencing stress levels and trigger positive emotions through olfactory stimulation.

A multi-sensory experience can feature calming aromatherapeutic scents or a skincare routine to contribute to a more relaxed and positive feeling, hence improving mood. This interaction is mediated by several mechanisms, including neurological, immunological and hormonal pathways.

Neurocosmetic ingredients can modulate essential chemicals in the skin in a way that is similar to the body’s natural brain chemicals. This can help to prolong the life of skin cells and mitigate the skin’s response to stress and inflammation. These ingredients interact with neurotransmitters in the skin, which makes them more active by influencing the nervous system.

As a result of this, they provide anti-ageing benefits by penetrating the skin barrier and working on the surface. For instance, a moisturiser might contain ingredients such as peptides, adaptogens or probiotics that can reduce inflammation, calm the skin and reduce the sensation of discomfort or stress, a common nuance experienced by menopausal skin.

The field of Neurocosmetics is expanding as scientific research and innovative technologies progress and consumer interest in skin health solutions grows. Ingredient selection is key in Neurocosmetics and there are numerous ways to incorporate them into a formulation.

The physiological effects of Neurocosmetic formulas with emotional potential to affect human skin sensory neuron activity, aligns with the wellness movement and positions it at the forefront of innovation in the beauty industry.

References

1. Slominski A, Wortsman J. Neuroendocrinology of the skin. Endocr Rev. 2000 Oct;21(5):457-87. doi: 10.1210/edrv.21.5.0410. Erratum in: Endocr Rev 2002 Jun;23(3):364. PMID: 11041445.
2. Martins AM, Ascenso A, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. The Brain-Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells. 2020 Mar 26;9(4):796. doi: 10.3390/cells9040796. PMID: 32224981; PMCID: PMC7226493.
3. Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
4. Dayan N. Skin Aging Handbook [Electronic Resource] : An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development / Edited by Nava Dayan. William Andrew; 2008.

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Skincare has become a monumental movement as one of the beauty industry’s most dynamic categories, with all generations being a part of it.

It offers a diverse range of products from moisturisers and cleansers to serums, toners and masks, with a wide array of ingredients to meet different skin needs and goals. At its core, the primary purpose of skincare is to support the health, integrity and appearance of our skin.

To ensure the safety, efficacy and accurate labelling of skincare products, regional regulations are established so that we can make informed decisions about their uses and benefits. Some regulations, particularly those defining skincare (under cosmetics) as products that work only superficially, may not reflect our current understanding of ingredient functionality and innovative formulation capabilities.

Underpinned by robust science, skincare involves understanding the skin’s layered structure and its various functions.

Our skin is one of the largest, yet complex organs, that primarily acts as a very good selective and protective barrier against external aggressors like UV rays and pollution, maintaining it against infection, while regulating body temperature and retaining hydration.

Skincare science involves a thorough understanding of skin physiology and the interaction of ingredients with the skin and each other. Ingredients are selected to address specific concerns and their effectiveness is influenced by their formulation and how they are absorbed by the skin, as some active ingredients work at the cellular level to enhance skin function.

The formulation process involves selecting and combining ingredients, optimising pH levels and balancing actives for stability and effectiveness.

Ingredient compatibility is key to a product’s effectiveness and stability testing is vital to prevent unwanted reactions. This can be based on clinical research, whether ingredients are synthetic or naturally derived.

The idea that natural is inherently safer is a misconception. Yes, natural ingredients can be safe and are lovely to work with BUT rather than assuming safety, the same safety regulations we apply to synthetic materials should also be applied to the natural ones, including natural skincare.

The effectiveness of skincare is largely determined by how ingredients interact with the outermost layer of the skin.

We often hear that higher concentrations of ingredients guarantee better performance or deeper penetration. Some ingredients are designed to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, but this requires a thorough understanding of the skin’s structure, specifically the stratum corneum which is the main obstacle of skin penetration.

Skincare is supposed to work on the surface, but emphasises how well it works with the skin’s surface to give us desired results because that’s what skincare is supposed to do.

The penetration of ingredients depends on their physicochemical properties and the technologies introduced at a formulation level.

The molecular size and structure of ingredients determine their ability to penetrate the skin. Advanced technologies and delivery systems are used to enhance absorption. There are rules for penetration, such as having a molecular weight under 500 Daltons and a specific partition coefficient.

Some ingredients are formulated to reach cells to stimulate collagen production and target fibroblasts. However, many ingredients serve us better when they act on the skins surface and are not supposed to penetrate deeply.

Penetration is not always desirable, as some potential sensitisers could cause adverse reactions or granulomas. The compatibility of ingredients is key to the overall effectiveness of a skincare product.

Some ingredients may enhance or inhibit the efficacy of others, making it essential to understand their interactions. Stability testing ensures that no undesirable reactions occur when ingredients are mixed in a formulation.

The stability of ingredients also ensures they remain at full efficacy when reacting with the skin’s surface to the delivery into the skin to where it can really make a difference.

Clinical trials, involving human volunteers under dermatologically controlled conditions, using various instrumental tools with advanced capabilities assess the safety and efficacy of skincare products. They provide data on hydration, texture, elasticity and overall skin improvement.

These trials, along with scientific research and testing, support the claims made by skincare products and provide valuable insights into their performance, ensuring they deliver the promised benefits without adverse effects.

These studies also help determine the safety and efficacy of ingredients and formulations with the skin.

Understanding the science behind skincare is empowering, beyond ingredient lists and concentrations, claim substantiation and clinical evidence reinforces skincare efficacy.

This knowledge paves the way for an informed and discerning approach to skincare, one that nurtures and celebrates our skin’s natural abilities.

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