Is beauty only skin deep?

The answer is no. The emerging scientific research and innovation indicate that the secret to achieving a radiant appearance is not just superficial; it indeed lies within ^{1, 2, 3, 4.}

You are what you eat

Good health begins with a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients, vitamins, and minerals. In recent years, especially during the pandemic, this understanding has deepened, leading consumers toward a more health-conscious lifestyle that now extends to their beauty routines as well.

As consumers of all ages seek natural, well-being-oriented solutions to promote their health and enhance their glow, nutricosmetics have surged in popularity, becoming a popular trend in the beauty market.

This innovative approach to beauty signifies the importance of nutrition, highlighting how specific vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants can contribute to skin, hair, and nail health from the inside out. With many nutricosmetics delivered orally, they provide an effective way of enhancing beauty from within, making them a convenient addition to daily wellness routines.

What are nutricosmetics?

They are dietary supplements or functional foods that are formulated to promote beauty and health from the inside out. They typically contain a combination of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds designed to improve skin, hair, and nail health.

The idea behind nutricosmetics is that what we consume can significantly impact our external appearance, addressing issues such as aging, dryness, and skin conditions by nourishing the body from within.

Unlike cosmetics applied topically, most nutricosmetics are taken orally, facilitating a systemic and better absorption of essential nutrients. Optimized for the demands of modern life, these products come in various formats, including tablets, capsules, softgels, powders, gummies, and beverages, making them accessible and convenient for anyone seeking to enhance their beauty routine through nutrition.

Focus areas shaping the nutricosmetics industry.

A variety of ingredients & concepts are driving the growth and effectiveness of nutricosmetics, each playing a vital role in enhancing skin, hair, nail health from within ^{5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10};

Essential vitamins, and minerals: Vitamins A, C, E, and minerals like zinc and selenium can improve skin complexion by boosting skin elasticity, reducing inflammation, and protecting against environmental & lifestyle stressors.

Collagen: Protein consumption supports collagen production, which is vital for maintaining firm, youthful skin.

Antioxidants: Abundant in berries, leafy greens, nuts, and certain algae, provide a spectrum of benefits for skin health, including Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), which protects skin cells from oxidative damage, promotes collagen production, and improves texture and elasticity; glutathione, known for its skin-brightening properties that reduce pigmentation and enhance radiance while combating free radicals; resveratrol, which offers anti-aging benefits by protecting skin cells from UV rays and pollution; curcumin, which has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritation and reduce acne; astaxanthin, a carotenoid from microalgae that improves elasticity and protects against UV damage; and polyphenols, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote an even skin tone, highlighting the essential role these compounds play in maintaining a healthy complexion.

Hydration through nutrition: Water based liquid shots, effervescent beverages, and juices from cucumber, watermelon, and citrus fruits can contribute to maintaining plump, hydrated skin.

Gut health and beauty: A balanced gut microbiome, supported by probiotics and prebiotics, can significantly impact skin health by promoting proper digestion and nutrient absorption. Skin benefits include, but are not limited to, a reduction in acne, redness, and inflammation.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids for Skin Softness: Oral supplements containing omega-3 fatty acids, derived from sources like salmon, flaxseeds, and walnuts, contribute to smoother, more supple skin by maintaining the skin’s lipid barrier.

Detoxification: Products rich in detoxifying ingredients, such as leafy greens, garlic, and green tea, help cleanse the body of toxins, leading to clearer skin and a more even complexion.

Biotin for Hair and Nails: Consuming biotin-rich foods and supplements, such as eggs, almonds, and sweet potatoes, strengthens hair and nails, reducing breakage and promoting growth.

Balanced Blood Sugar for Even Skin Tone: Maintaining stable blood sugar levels by eating low-glycemic foods like whole grains, legumes, and vegetables can prevent breakouts and reduce skin discoloration.

Mind-Gut-Skin Connection: The gut-brain connection highlights how mental health is closely associated with gut health, which in turn affects the skin. A balanced diet that supports gut health can reduce stress-related skin issues, like acne and inflammation.

Emerging Trends:

As the nutricosmetics industry continues to evolve, oral dosage formats are gaining momentum in the market. These innovative products, available as tablets, capsules, gummies, powders, and beverages, offer a convenient and effective way to incorporate essential nutrients into daily routines (Table 1), reflecting the growing consumer preference for holistic solutions that deliver vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants directly to the body. These products enhance not only skin, hair, and nail health but also overall well-being, making beauty a comprehensive approach that starts from within.

Table 1: Emerging trends in nutricosmetics

As the link between health and beauty becomes increasingly apparent, by incorporating functional foods and beauty beverages into our daily routines we not only support our outer beauty but also enhance our overall well-being. So, the next time you shop for cosmetics, be sure to look for these innovative products that reflect your beauty goals and promote a confident lifestyle. After all, as the saying goes, “You are what you eat—so why not nourish your beauty from the inside out?”

Bibliography

1. Dini I, Laneri S., Nutricosmetics: A brief overview, Phytotherapy Research, Volume33, Issue12, December 2019, Pages 3054-3063, https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.6494.

2. J.E. Aguilar-Toalá, A. Vidal-Limon, Andrea M. Liceaga, Chapter 6 – Nutricosmetics: A new frontier in bioactive peptides’ research toward skin aging, Editor(s): Fidel Toldrá, Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, Academic Press, Volume 104, 2023, Pages 205-228, ISSN 1043-4526, ISBN 9780443193026, https://doi.org/10.1016/bs.afnr.2022.10.002.

3. Maia Campos, P.M.B.G.; Franco, R.S.B.; Kakuda, L.; Cadioli, G.F.; Costa, G.M.D.; Bouvret, E. Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study. Molecules 2021, 26, 4880. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26164880

4. Dini, I.; Laneri, S. The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations. Molecules 2021, 26, 3921. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26133921

5. Alharbi, K.L.; Raman, J.; Shin, H.-J. Date Fruit and Seed in Nutricosmetics. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 59. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030059.

6. Anunciato T.P., Filho P.A.D.R., Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals, JCD Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Forward series, Volume11, Issue1, March 2012, Pages 51-54, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00600.x.

7. Sriyab, S., Laosirisathian, N., Punyoyai, C. et al. Nutricosmetic effects of Asparagus officinalis: a potent matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitor. Sci Rep 11, 8772 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-88340-2.

8. Catarina Faria-Silva, Andreia Ascenso, Ana M. Costa, Joana Marto, Manuela Carvalheiro, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Sandra Simões, Feeding the skin: A new trend in food and cosmetics convergence, Trends in Food Science & Technology, Volume 95, 2020, Pages 21-32, ISSN 0924-2244, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tifs.2019.11.015.

9. López-Hortas, L.; Flórez-Fernández, N.; Torres, M.D.; Ferreira-Anta, T.; Casas, M.P.; Balboa, E.M.; Falqué, E.; Domínguez, H. Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics. Mar. Drugs 2021, 19, 552. https://doi.org/10.3390/md19100552.

10. Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M. González-Paramás, Anabela Martins, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Isabel C.F.R. Ferreira, Mushrooms extracts and compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics—A review, Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 90, 2016, Pages 38-48, ISSN 0926-6690, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2016.06.012.

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“Epigenetics” is an area of scientific research, which has gradually infiltrated various industries, including cosmetics, over the years. But what exactly is epigenetics, and why is it relevant to cosmetics?

Essentially, epigenetics, a term coined in biology, refers to a set of instructions that regulate gene activity without altering the DNA sequence.

These instructions, influenced by factors such as environment, lifestyle, and experiences, dictate when genes are turned on or off. While they don’t change our genes, they significantly impact our health and appearance.

Understanding epigenetics is extremely beneficial in cosmetics as it informs skincare and haircare formulations tailored to individual needs, addressing concerns like ageing and treatment response effectively.

Understanding How Epigenetics Works

Epigenetic mechanisms control gene activity without changing the DNA sequence. As biological research progresses, other mechanisms are likely to be discovered, and currently the key types include:

• DNA methylation, which adds a chemical tag to DNA.
• Histone modification, altering proteins around which DNA is wound.
• Non-coding RNAs, like microRNAs, that can influence gene expression.
• Chromatin remodelling, which adjusts how tightly DNA is packaged.
• As well as changes that can be inherited across generations.

These mechanisms respond to factors like diet, stress, and environmental exposures, influencing traits such as ageing, disease susceptibility, and hair or skin characteristics ^1,2,3,4.

The Science Behind Youthful Skin

Epigenetics reveals how our skin ages. DNA methylation and histone changes play big roles. As we age, these processes shift, leading to wrinkles, lines, and less bounce in our skin.

Understanding these changes helps explain why skin ages and how it happens. It’s like a roadmap guiding scientists to develop treatments and skincare products that target these specific changes.

By addressing epigenetic factors, we can slow down ageing and keep our skin looking youthful for longer. It’s not just about creams and serums; it’s about understanding the science behind our skin’s journey through time.

Combatting Ageing with Epigenetic Cosmetics

“Epigenetic cosmetics” offer a new frontier in fighting ageing.

These formulations are designed to target specific changes in gene activity that occur as we age. By using ingredients that affect epigenetic processes, like DNA methylation and histone modification, these cosmetics can boost collagen production, repair skin cells, and bring back youthful gene patterns.

It’s like giving our skin a fresh start, helping it to regain its firmness, smoothness and vitality. With epigenetic cosmetics, we’re not just covering up wrinkles; we’re addressing the root causes of ageing, offering a promising path to more youthful and radiant skin.

Addressing Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation disorders like melasma and age spots can originate from epigenetic changes. These alterations can lead to overproduction of melanin, leading to uneven skin tone.

Epigenetic-based skincare aims to counteract these changes by regulating melanin production. Formulations may include ingredients targeting DNA methylation and histone modification to restore balanced gene expression in melanocytes.

By addressing these underlying epigenetic disproportions, these skincare solutions can help fade pigmentation irregularities and promote a more even complexion. Through the science of epigenetics, skincare advances toward personalized treatments tailored to individuals’ unique skin needs, offering hope for those seeking effective solutions for hyperpigmentation.

Protecting Skin from Environmental Stressors

Environmental stressors like UV radiation, pollution, and stress induce epigenetic modifications in skin cells, contributing to ageing and damage.

Epigenetic-targeted cosmetics can address this by fortifying the skin’s defences against these stressors. Formulations may incorporate ingredients like antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes to counteract epigenetic damage and promote healthier gene expression patterns ⁵. For instance, sunscreen, a vital component of skincare, shields against harmful UV rays, preventing epigenetic changes linked to ageing and skin cancer.

Hydrating and Strengthening the Skin Barrier

Epigenetics regulates genes that are responsible for skin hydration and barrier function, which is crucial for healthy skin.

Epigenetic-based skincare formulations hold promise in restoring moisture and reinforcing the skin barrier. By targeting DNA methylation and histone modifications, these products can promote optimal gene expression patterns, enhancing hydration and resilience.

Ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid further support skin barrier integrity, sealing in moisture and preventing water loss. Through epigenetic modulation, skincare advances toward personalized solutions tailored to individual skin needs, ensuring hydration and strength for a healthier, more resilient complexion.

Personalized Skincare Solutions

Personalized skincare is on the rise, partially thanks to advancements in epigenetic profiling technologies ^6,7. These innovations enable the customization of cosmetic products based on individual epigenetic profiles, addressing specific genetic predispositions and skin concerns.

By analysing epigenetic markers, such as DNA methylation patterns, skincare brands can offer tailored solutions for each person’s unique needs. This personalized approach to beauty ensures that individuals receive targeted treatments that maximize effectiveness and promote skin health.

As the trend continues to grow, consumers can expect a more precise and personalized skincare experience, enhancing their beauty routines with science-backed solutions.

The Future of Epigenetic Cosmetics

Many advanced studies in epigenetics are still in their early stages of experimentation, and it will take time to translate these findings into market-ready products. The full scope of the efficacy of topical applications on genetic influences remains to be comprehensively understood and explored.

However, looking ahead, epigenetics will continue to be not only relevant but also at the forefront of beauty innovation.

With ongoing technological advancements in biological sciences and continued investment from leading cosmetics brands, the focus on incorporating epigenetics into cosmetic products is poised for significant growth. Factors such as increasing disposable incomes, progressive lifestyles, and heightened beauty consciousness will drive demand for innovative skincare solutions among consumers.

Moreover, the Asia-Pacific region, with its increasing consumer spending on premium skincare and the influence of global beauty trends on millennials and Gen Z, is expected to experience similar growth. This will enable the development of personalized skincare solutions tailored to individual genetic profiles.

Bibliography

1. He J, He H, Qi Y, Yang J, Zhi L, Jia Y. Application of epigenetics in dermatological research and skin management. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 May;21(5):1920-1930. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14355. Epub 2021 Aug 6. PMID: 34357681.
2. Andersen B, Millar S. Skin epigenetics. Exp Dermatol. 2021 Aug;30(8):1004-1008. doi: 10.1111/exd.14418. Epub 2021 Jul 5. PMID: 34223679; PMCID: PMC8664073.
3. Tiffon C. The Impact of Nutrition and Environmental Epigenetics on Human Health and Disease. Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Nov 1;19(11):3425. doi: 10.3390/ijms19113425. PMID: 30388784; PMCID: PMC6275017.
4. Bollati, V., Baccarelli, A. Environmental epigenetics. Heredity 105, 105–112 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1038/hdy.2010.2.
5. Weinhold B. Epigenetics: the science of change. Environ Health Perspect. 2006 Mar;114(3):A160-7. doi: 10.1289/ehp.114-a160. PMID: 16507447; PMCID: PMC1392256.
6. Mehrmohamadi M, Sepehri MH, Nazer N, Norouzi MR. A Comparative Overview of Epigenomic Profiling Methods. Front Cell Dev Biol. 2021 Jul 22;9:714687. doi: 10.3389/fcell.2021.714687. PMID: 34368164; PMCID: PMC8340004.
7. Orioli D, Dellambra E. Epigenetic Regulation of Skin Cells in Natural Aging and Premature Aging Diseases. Cells. 2018 Dec 12;7(12):268. doi: 10.3390/cells7120268. PMID: 30545089; PMCID: PMC6315602.

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2023 is the year of India at in-cosmetics Asia and this is part of a series to shine a light on the dynamic Indian personal care market… 

Nestled in the heart of South Asia, India stands as a captivating and vibrant nation, celebrated for its rich cultural heritage and extraordinary diversity.

Boasting a population of over 1.4 billion in 2023, it has surpassed China to become the world’s most populous country ⁽¹⁾, embracing a multitude of ethnicities, languages, and cultural backgrounds.

The beauty industry in India is currently in the midst of an uprising primarily driven by its economic, social, & technological changes – see below.

India has made remarkable strides in the cosmetic market, particularly in the personal care ingredients sector, securing a substantial 7.7% value share by region in 2022 (Figure 2 below).

As a result, it now ranks as the 4th largest market globally, trailing behind Europe, the US, and China ⁽²⁾.

Among its various applications, skincare holds the largest share at 53.5%, followed by haircare at 37.3%, colour cosmetics at 5.4%, sun protection at 0.3%, and other applications, including oral/DEO, at 3.4% ⁽²⁾.

Looking ahead, India is projected to spearhead the growth in personal care ingredients with a 5.3% increase (2022-2027) compared to the rest of the world (Figure 3).

Currently, the market is dominated by L’Oréal India, Oriflame India, Hindustan Unilever, Procter & Gamble Home Products, NIVEA India, Godrej Consumer Products, Emami, Dabur India, Marico, and Lotus Herbals.

Additionally, the beauty industry’s continued success is attributed to the thriving direct-to-consumer brands facilitated by e-commerce platforms like Flipkart, Amazon India, Myntra, and Nykaa. This flourishing trend plays a pivotal role in shaping the future of India’s beauty industry ⁽³⁾.

Formulating Cosmetics Targeted at Indian Consumers

Skin Diversity

The diverse spectrum of Indian consumers skin includes shades from light to dark (Type III-VI in Fitzpatrick skin grading).

Comparatively, it consists of larger pores, higher pore density with a high sebum production ^(4,5). Indian consumers skin faces a variety of aggressors in the environment, including UV exposure, pollution, high humidity, excessive heat, and cold requiring a repertoire to prevent skin conditions such as acne, erythema, pigmentation issues (e.g., melasma, tanning, post inflammatory pigmentation after injury (brown marks), under eye circles & pigmentation around the mouth).

Moreover, the usage of drying chemicals in soaps and the type of water (hard or soft) used, can impact the skin’s barrier function ⁽⁶⁾.

The Indian beauty market has mainly consisted of international labels until a few years ago, which meant that the dominating products were more suited to the brands’ home markets, as opposed to melanin-rich skin.

However, several homegrown and international brands are now developing product lines for south Asian consumers, recognising that its needs are different. In response to global BLM protests, cosmetics brands have altered their marketing, removing, or replacing claims related to “lightening” and “fair.”

Nevertheless, topical skin lightening/brightening remains ⁽⁷⁾, but the popularity is anticipated to subside. The emerging trend of ‘skinimalism’ – where minimalism meets skincare, focuses on embracing your skin with all its flaws and strengths. Consumers continues to invest in ethical, nature friendly products built on sustainable practices and take a holistic approach to beauty.

Hair Diversity

Genetic ancestry, regional climate, and cultural practices mould Indian hair diversity (approximately ranging from 2A-3C in traditional hair chart).

Individuals from northern regions, where the climate is often more temperate, may have hair with varying degrees of waviness or curliness, while those from the southern parts, with a tropical climate, might have hair that tends to be more coiled or curly.

Indian hair is typically finer and softer in texture and tends to have a higher density, giving it a voluminous and full appearance.

This type of hair has high porosity, meaning it can absorb & exude moisture easily. This high density also makes it more resilient to damage and breakage. It has higher level of natural oils & generally appears shiny.

Colour Significance

Colours have symbolic meaning in Indian culture. Products with colours associated with purity, prosperity, or cultural celebrations (e.g.: Mehndi, Holi, Diwali, Pongal) may attract more attention from Indian consumers. Although it can be very diverse from region to region, many customs are associated with Indians wearing coloured products (including colour cosmetics).

Fragrance Preferences

Scents hold cultural significance in India, and consumers often have specific preferences based on traditions. Understanding and incorporating popular fragrances can enhance product appeal.

Ayurvedic Focus

Ayurveda, India’s ancient system of medicine, heavily influences beauty practices. Formulating products with herbal and natural ingredients resonates with Indian consumers who value traditional remedies especially for skincare and haircare.

Ethical and Sustainable Practices

Indian consumers are increasingly conscious of environmental and ethical concerns. Brands that promote sustainability, cruelty-free practices, recycling initiatives and fair-trade sourcing (CSR) can gain favour among consumers.

Traditional Beauty Rituals

Incorporating elements of traditional beauty rituals in product formulations can appeal to consumers seeking products rooted in cultural heritage.

Packaging Designs

Thoughtful and culturally sensitive packaging with ingredient and claims transparency that reflects Indian aesthetics and values can create a deeper emotional connection with consumers.

Seasonal Adaptations

India experiences diverse climates across its regions, requiring the formulation of season-specific products that address varying skincare and haircare needs.

Regulatory Compliance

The Central Drugs Standard Control Organization (CDSCO) mainly regulate activities relating to cosmetics. In addition, consumers look for products endorsed by recognized certification bodies, especially for organic, natural, and Ayurvedic claims.

Embracing Digital Transformation

Virtual Product Testing, Active engagement with consumers on social media platforms fosters brand connection, communication, and knowledge sharing.

In conclusion, formulating cosmetics for the Indian market requires a keen understanding of the diverse skin types, climate conditions, and cultural preferences present in the South Asian region.

As the country’s beauty and personal care industry continues to evolve, a well-informed approach to formulation will undoubtedly pave the way for cosmetics that not only enhance aesthetics but also mirror the spirit of India’s vibrant beauty culture.

Table 1: Key product features, hero ingredients and opportunities across selected cosmetic categories.

Bibliography

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2. Kline. The Latest Trends & Opprtunities in Haircare Ingredients market: A Report for in-cosmetics (World Leading Events for petrsonalcare ingredients) . s.l. : Kline, May, 2023.

3. Ro H. Sahrash M. The cosmetic industry in india- a PESTLE analysis, Perspectives on Business Management & Economics. Visakhapatnam : Viswamitra Foundation, 07-2022, Vols. VI (ISBN: 978-81-951151-0-5).

4. Flament F, Francois G, Qiu H, Ye C, Hanaya T, Batisse D, Cointereau-Chardon S, Seixas MD, Dal Belo SE, Bazin R. Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol., 2015, Vol. 8, pp. 85-93.

5. Sarkar R, Garg VK, Jain A, Agarwal D, Wagle A, Flament F, Verschoore M. A randomized study to evaluate the efficacy and effectiveness of two sunscreen formulations on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2019;85:160-168.

6. Voegeli D. The effect of washing and drying practices on skin barrier function. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2008 Jan-Feb;35(1):84-90. doi: 10.1097/01.WON.0000308623.68582.d7. PMID: 18199943

7. Pollock S, Taylor S, Oyerinde O, Nurmohamed S, Dlova N, Sarkar R, Galadari H, Manela-Azulay M, Chung HS, Handog E, Kourosh AS. The dark side of skin lightening: An international collaboration and review of a public health issue affecting dermatology. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2020 Sep 17;7(2):158-164. doi: 10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.09.006. PMID: 33937483; PMCID: PMC8072511.

8. Kumar, D., Rajora, G., Parkash, O., Antil, M. and Kumar, V., 2016. Herbal cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Advanced Scientific Research, 1(4), pp.36-41.

9. Chaudhri, S. K. and Jain, N. K. (2014) “History of cosmetics”, Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics (AJP), 3(3). doi: 10.22377/ajp.v3i3.260

10. Patkar KB. Herbal cosmetics in ancient India. Indian J Plast Surg. 2008 Oct;41(Suppl):S134-7. PMID: 20174537; PMCID: PMC2825132.

11. Mintel article, The intersection of value, sustainability and skinification in colour cosmetics, (24.07.2023)

12. Rajani T., Bar soap reigns in India’s cleansing market; body wash struggles to lather up, MINTEL (Online 23, 04, 2023) [Cited: 04 08, 2023]

13. Kedar N., 4 hair trends to watch out for in 2023, according to experts (17.02.2023)

14.Rajani T. , Breaking through Barriers : Boosting body wash usage in India (25.05.2023)

15. Mintel Announces the Key Trends That Are Shaping the Indian Consumer Market, Business wire India (22.03.2022),

16. India oblivious to sun safety: 65% of consumers don’t use sunscreen, Mintel article (01.08.2019).

17. Donglikar M.M. and Laxman D.S., Sunscreens: A review, Pharmacognosy Journals, January 2016, Volume 8, Issue 3,

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